USA > Massachusetts > Middlesex County > Concord > The history of Concord, Massachusetts > Part 2
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The matter being referred to the minister he said, after a moment's reflection, "Such things being unusual contain a lesson and should lead us to be circumspect and careful in our conduct." He was about to say more, but was inter- rupted by a faint rap at the back door which was at the end of a low entry under the lean-to roof.
Goodman Hartwell snatched from the mantlepiece a save-all on which a short candle stub sputtered, and going out soon returned with Goody Rice who had come across lots for an evening call. The newcomer created a fresh breeze of excitement for she confirmed what Duty had said of the queer noises, and also told about a strange creature which had several times been seen near the "great mead- ows," sometimes looking like a man and sometimes like a goat, but always vanishing when approached.
It was at once agreed that since the strange sight and sounds were at about the same time they might have the same cause, and as the matter was a serious one it was thought wise before considering it further to wait till others came in, "For," said Ensign Hosmer who had just entered, "there's some up our way who've heerd things, and I consait seen things too, and perhaps the creature is the 'specter wolf' folks have talked of."
The further time of waiting was mostly occupied in talk- ing over the condition of Dame Smeadley, who, Goodman Farwell who had just visited her said, was "low and languish- ing and much in need of the physic and paynes of the chirugeon."
When a sufficient number had come in to begin busi- ness all other subjects were soon dropped and the business
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of the evening was entered upon, which consisted of an informal talk about things that were to be considered at a coming town meeting, among which were matters connected with the cow commons, "the seating of the meeting house," and the making of some new rules relative to strangers, it having been noised about that one or two of these might become the town charge.
As each new comer entered he was introduced to the traveller, and when it was understood that he had journeyed all the way from Watertown to observe the customs, man- ners, and ways of doing things of the people at the Mus- ketequid plantation, great interest was at once taken in him and a disposition was manifested to aid him in every way possible.
Among other marks of cordiality was the promptness with which they invited him to their "housen," offering the freedom and hospitality of their firesides and promising if he would set a time they would come for him.
The traveller appeared pleased, and afterwards in accept- ing their invitations, sat at many hearthstones listening to the sparks and gathering much of colonial lore and pioneer experience of the settlers of Concord.
Before narrating, however, what he heard and saw, we will speak of Concord as it is, and briefly outline its earlier history.
Concord, Massachusetts, is in Middlesex County about twenty miles from Boston. It has a territorial area of about fifteen miles and a population of between five and six thousand. It is intersected from north to south by the New York, New Haven and Hartford railroad and from east to west by the Fitchburg division of the Boston and Maine. The Lexington branch of the latter road enters the town from the east, terminating at Concord Junction near the Massachusetts Reformatory. The trolley cars, also have found their way here, and rumble over the old roads and past ancient homesteads ; and where once the farm boy drove his herd afield amid the quietness of nature, may
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now be seen strange vehicles, whose whizzing and whirring show plainly that Concord is not exempt from modern progress.
The Center or central village of Concord has a popula- tion of from two to three thousand and contains approxi- mately five hundred private residences. It has no stores or shops beyond what are locally required ; and more or less of its inhabitants are those who in retirement have sought here a restful retreat, or who, while doing busi- ness elsewhere, have made this their home.
About midway of the central village is a small common or public square. In this square is a monument commemo- rative of the town's soldiers and sailors who died in the civil war.
Near the corner of the Common to the easterly where the road turns towards the Battle Ground is the old County Court House where the District Court for central Middlesex holds its sessions.
Southerly of the Court House is the Town House and on the opposite side to the westward is the old Registry of Deeds building used for county purposes when Con- cord was a shire town.
To the northerly of the square is "The Colonial," a building associated with the Revolutionary war and the family of Henry Thoreau.
The places of interest in Concord are both historic and classic. Foremost among the former is the site of the old North Bridge about a half mile from the public square. By this spot several Provincial and British soldiers were killed April 19, 1775. The slain Americans were Capt. Isaac Davis and Abner Hosmer of the Acton Minute Men and the Statue of the Minute Man designed by Daniel C. French a Concord sculptor marks the spot on or near where they fell.
The English soldiers slain were two in number. They were under the immediate command of Lieut. Edward Thornton Gould and were of a detachment of three com- panies under the command of Capt. Lawrie.
GRAVES OF BRITISH SOLDIERS.
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The spot where these soldiers fell and the British stood when they began firing upon the Provincials just over the river is designated by a stone monument erected by the town in 1836. Near this monument by the sidewalk pro- tected in part by a stonewall and in part by a simple chain fence are the graves of the two fallen Britons.
The locality of these monuments is called the "Battle Ground." The original historic bridge was long since swept away by a river flood, and the present one was erected for a memorial purpose.
A short distance from the lane leading to the bridge on the road toward Concord centre is the old Jones house built in 1654, now the residence of John S. Keyes, Justice of the Central Middlesex District Court. In this house there lived at the time of the Concord fight Elisha Jones, an ardent patriot whose zeal was so demonstrative on the retreat of the British that his house was made a target of, and the accuracy of the Englishman's aim may still be seen by a bullet mark in the east end.
About a mile from the North Bridge stands the old Barrett house, the home in the Revolutionary period of Col. James Barrett who commanded a regiment of Middle- sex militia.
To this place a detachment of Regulars were sent under Capt. Lawrence Parsons by Lieut .- Col. Smith, who with the main body of English soldiers were stationed at the central village. In the door yard of this house the Britons burned a parcel of Provincial cannon carriages and endeav- ored to discover and destroy other public property.
Various incidents are told of the doings of the Red Coats during their short stay about the house, and of the Provincials who sought to foil them. It is said of the aged mother of the Colonel that she would not seek for herself a place of safety when told that the British were coming, but prefered to remain saying, "I can't live long any
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way and I'd rather stay and see that they don't burn down the house and barn."
As a soldier seized a trunk containing some pewter plates she pluckily exclaimed, "That is private property," upon which it was let alone. She also expostulated with a Brit- ish officer who had laid hold of Stephen, her grandson, causing his release. When the hungry Britons asked for food she gave it saying, "We are commanded in the Bible to feed our enemies," and when offered money she said as she refused it, "It is the price of blood." In a field near the premises the provincials had concealed some muskets, and bullets were so disposed of in the house as to remain undiscovered, so that, all in all, Captain Parsons with his two companies of Regulars found but small compensation for his venturesome march. The Old Barrett house is about two miles north of Concord Center and is reached by the Lowell Road and the Barrett's Mill Road.
Near the Common or Public Square, and bearing a sign designating its historic importance is the "Wright Tavern" where it is asserted some of the English officers made their headquarters during their few hours sojourn in the town on April 19. Here, tradition says, Maj. John Pitcairn who commanded the British marines stirred his sugar and brandy saying as he did so, "In this way we will stir the blood of Yankees before night." This place was also the headquarters, or place of rendezvous, of the Concord Minute Men while awaiting on the morning of April 19, tidings of the advance of the English, and to this tavern Captain Smith and his company from Lincoln repaired and reported ; so that it was within the course of a few hours the head centre of two hostile forces who were to clash in battle on that fateful day. This tavern is very old. It was opened about 1747, by a militia captain named Ephraim Jones. In 1751, Jones sold the premises to Thomas Munroe formerly of Lexington, who continued the tavern business, and made the place, as Jones had done before him, a resort for the town officials on their days of public
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business, furnishing them with such refreshments as were demanded by the times and the special occasions.
About 1760, it came into the possession of Deacon Thomas Barrett, by a mortgage and was sold by him to Daniel Taylor. In 1775, Amos Wright became its proprietor, and although he kept an Inn there but a short period, it was long enough to give it a lasting name, for it has been known as the Wright Tavern ever since, not- withstanding it was sold in 1793, to Capt. Reuben Brown formerly of Sudbury.
Near the Wright Tavern on the south is the First Parish or Unitarian Meeting House, which stands on the site of one erected in 1712, where in 1774, the first Provincial Congress met, with John Hancock as President. The immediate predecessor of the present edifice after having been repeatedly remodeled was destroyed by fire April 12, 1 900.
A few rods to the southerly, on the left going toward Lexington is the Antiquarian House, said to be one of the oldest buildings in Concord and formerly the home of Reuben Brown, a saddler. Here is now kept a collection of relics among which is the sword of Col. James Bar- rett, a gun of one of the English soldiers who fell at the North Bridge and a tobacco box of Maj. John Buttrick.
About a mile below the Antiquarian House on the Lexington road which was traveled by the English soldiers both in their advance and their retreat on April 19, is Mer- iam's Corner. Here was the first skirmish after the firing at the North Bridge, and the beginning of disaster to the retreating English, they having been attacked at this point by the Provincials who had crossed from the North Bridge over the "Great Fields" back of the Burying Ground, and also by companies from Reading, Chelmsford and Billerica.
A tablet suitably inscribed marks the spot of this mem- orable skirmish, and hard by, set back from the highway with its side upon the road to Bedford is the square anti- quated dwelling house early occupied by the Meriams.
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On one of its doors is the mark of a bullet received April 19th; and the brick oven and high mantle cupboard and corner beaufet are all indicative of the days of tallow candles and pewter plates.
On the east side of what is now Walden street at a place near the Congregational Trinitarian meeting house there stood on April 19, 1775, a store house in which some Provincial stores had been deposited by the Committee of Safety. These stores were saved from destruction by the English searching squad, by a ruse of the miller who had them in charge, who, placing his hands upon barrels of his own flour, said, "This is my flour. In the winter I grind my grain and in the spring I carry it to market."
The soldiers believing by this remark concerning his own flour that all the flour deposited there belonged to the miller departed saying, "We do not destroy private pro- perty."
THE "OLD MANSE."
CHAPTER II.
Places of Classic Interest - The "Old Manse" - Home of Ralph Waldo Emerson - The "Orchard House" - The "Wayside" - Walden Pond - Tho- reau's House - The Home of Frank B. Sanborn - Old Burying Grounds - Sleepy Hollow - Natural Objects.
T HE places of classic interest in Concord are many and rare, for associated with its history both ancient and modern are men and women of world renown. Authors, poets, philosophers and jurists have contributed to the town's literary fame. The homes they once lived in are visited as shrines ; and the paths once trodden by them are annually pressed by the foot- steps of many who seek new inspiration by visiting the localities where these great men lived.
Probably the place of greatest interest is the "Old Manse." It is on the way to the "Battle Ground" and from its windows Rev. William Emerson witnessed the Concord Fight. Beneath its gray gables have lived a succession of the town's ministers ; but what above every thing else makes it distinguished is that it was for a time the home of Ralph Waldo Emerson and Nathaniel Hawthorne. Here the former wrote parts of his "Nature" and the latter "Mosses from an old Manse." It is about a half mile from Con- cord village standing back from the road amid a profu- sion of trees and shubbery and has an air of antiquity and colonial comfort: The house was built for Rev. William Emerson in 1765.
The field between the "Old Manse" and the "Battle Ground" is supposed, on account of the many relics found there, to be the site of an Indian village.
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Probably the object next in interest to the public is the house of Ralph Waldo Emerson. This like the birth- place of the bard of Avon is a place very dear to tourists. It is situated on the highway to Lexington and is easily distinguished by a cluster of pine trees which environ it. The house is of the colonial style of architecture, and of such pleasing proportions that it would be attractive to the passerby even were it not the home of the great essayist. It is now occupied by Miss Ellen Emerson, a daughter, and remains largely in its general outlook as when left by its former illustrious occupant.
The study which was on the first floor in one of the front rooms remains as when the great philosopher was alive, and the walks, the garden nooks, the home trees and such other objects as time, if let alone by man, leaves for years unchanged, are here much as in days of yore when Channing, Alcott, Hawthorne and Thoreau strolled among them.
Seldom, perhaps, in our land or in any land has a home been visited by more distinguished guests. From near and from far, from countries beyond the seas men have come to this spot and gone away bearing with them as an ample compensation the thought that they had visited the home of Emerson, walked in his footsteps, sat amid his trees and vines and heard the singing of birds and the hum- ming of bees as he had heard them.
A quarter of a mile or more to the east on the left of the road is the "Orchard House". Here Bronson Alcott and his famous family lived ; and here Louisa Alcott found material for "Little Women" and "Little Men" and several other of her notable books. In this house, Mr. Alcott founded the Concord School of Philosophy which was afterwards carried on in the small building at the rear.
Beyond the "Orchard House" is the "Wayside," another home of the Alcotts. It was sold by them in 1852 to Nathaniel Hawthorne who lived in it till his death, thus giving it double renown. The "tower room" at the rear
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was Hawthorne's study, and there he wrote "Tanglewood Tales" and "Our Old Home".
It is stated that the larches between the "Orchard House" and the "Wayside" were brought by Mr. Haw- thorne from England. The place is now the residence of Mrs. Daniel Lothrop, who as Margaret Sidney wrote "Little Maid of Concord Town" and other books.
To the south of Concord center, distant a mile and a half over the fields and meadows toward the town of Lin- coln is Walden Pond, made famous by the author, poet, and naturalist, Henry Thoreau. The pond is about a mile long and three miles in circumference. It is almost entirely surrounded by woods and has no visible inlet or outlet. Its waters are said to rise and fall but through what cause no one knows, for it is sometimes higher in dry than in wet seasons. Upon the northerly side of this pond Thoreau built a house which served him for a home for two years and two months. He moved into it in 1845, and it cost him, apart from the frame work, twenty-eight dollars and twelve and one half cents. The boarding was of material obtained from the house of a laborer. The frame was of timber cut and hewn by himself with a bor- rowed axe.
The building which was ten feet wide and fifteen feet long stood upon slightly rising ground about twenty rods from a small cove. It had a garret, a closet, a large win- dow on each side, a door at the end and a brick fireplace.
The land upon which it was situated was owned by Ralph Waldo Emerson who charged his tenant no rent. The site of the house is marked by a simple cairn made of stones placed there by tourists.
Not far from Thoreau's house was his bean field, where he raised one year "nine bushels and twelve quarts of beans" which he says he sold at a "pecuniary profit of eight dollars seventy-one and one half cents."
As is the case with many forest lakes, Walden has its legend and as usual it relates to the Indians, who, as the
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story runs had displeased the Great Spirit by their profan- ity at a powwow, whereupon in place of a pleasant hill came a pond which took its name Walden from an old squaw who was the only survivor.
About this pond there lived several emancipated slaves left over from that period of New England history when the rum habit and human servitude were not considered inconsistent with a high standard of morality. Of these Thoreau mentioned Cato Ingraham who lived east of his "bean field, slave of Duncan Ingraham, Esq., Gentleman of Concord village;" and Zilpha, a colored woman who had a little house "where she spun linen for the towns-folk, making the Walden woods ring with her shrill singing."
He also states, that on Brister's Hill down the road on the right lived Brister Freeman a "handy negro" slave of Squire Cummings and "Fenda his hospitable wife who told fortunes."
Other habitants of the pond precinct mentioned in Tho- reau's writings are one Breed whose hut he says was about the size of his own ; and an Irishman, Hugh Quoil, whom rumor said had been a soldier at Waterloo, "Napoleon" as the writer continues, "going to St. Helena and Quoil to Walden woods."
Apart from its association with Henry Thoreau, Wal- den pond has attractions peculiarly its own. The waters are at times remarkably transparent partaking of the changeful sky tints, reflecting from the calm, clear depths the rich foliage upon its banks. In some places the adjacent ground slopes gradually forming a miniature beach where the bathers can walk out several feet, while in others it falls rapidly with a sharp, steep descent and the trees standing gracefully beside it give a very pleasing effect, so that all in all the variety of shore line affords the beholder very much the aspect of the famous Lake George in New York. Walden pond may be reached from the Fitchburg R. R. station by a short walk down the track ; or by carriage road
SOUTH BRIDGE.
RESIDENCE OF FRANK B. SANBORN.
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down Thoreau street ; or it may be reached from Monu- ment Square by way of Main and Walden streets.
Among other localities especially associated with Henry Thoreau is the "landing place," a spot by the river near the South bridge, where he embarked on his trip for "A Week on the Concord and Merrimack Rivers," and to which repeated reference is made by him.
The birthplace of Thoreau is on the Virginia road, a somewhat disused way, opening from the Bedford road, and the house where he died is the third on the left before reach- ing the corner of Thoreau street as one goes up Main street. At the time of Thoreau s death the house was occupied by his family and afterward by Bronson Alcott and his daughter Louisa.
Just east of the South bridge with stone arches, on Elm street, is the home of Frank B. Sanborn, a well known journalist and the biographer of Alcott, Thoreau, Channing, and John Brown. The house was for a time the home of William Ellery Channing, and to it men of letters have oft times repaired for literary and social converse.
Its distinguished owner and occupant became conspicuous in ante bellum days, by an attempt to kidnap him on an alleged order of the President of the United States Senate for contempt in not appearing before that body to be examined in the interest of the southern slave power. The scheme so far succeeded as to result in the capture of Mr. Sanborn under pretence of a lawful arrest, but was soon foiled by the persistence and pluck of Mrs. Sanborn and the granting of a writ of habeas corpus by Judge E. Rock- wood Hoar, then of the Massachusetts Supreme Judicial Court.
Mr. Sanborn was a friend of John Brown of Harper's Ferry renown, and through his influence the latter made a visit to Concord and lifted up his voice in behalf of freedom for the slave.
Next to the places made prominent by the Revolution
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and the objects and localities made famous by its distin- guished men are its burying grounds. These places are of more than usual interest and few tourists leave the town without visiting them.
The one on the hill is supposed to be the oldest. Its exact age is not known but presumably it began as a church yard, for on a spot in the midst of it is supposed to have been built in 1635 or 1626 a little log meeting house ; and it is altogether probable, as we shall subsequently state, that nearby contemporaneous with the erection of this first meet- ing house was the laying out of land, according to the old English custom for a place of burial. But be this as it may, the ground dates from about the beginning of the settle- ment and since then representatives of many generations have been buried there.
This yard contains fourteen or fifteen of the oldest grave- stones in Concord, and more than two thirds of all the monuments and other grave markers bearing names of the original inhabitants of the town, are in this enclosure.
Upon these ancient tablets are the familiar names of Hosmer, Hartwell, Buttrick, Fletcher, Flint, Blood ; also of Heald, Brooks, Wheate, Stow, Heywood, Temple, Taylor, Chandler, Clark, Minott and Melvin, - family names which, it will be observed as we pursue our narra- tive, are of men who were prominent in shaping the town's history. Besides the names, inscriptions and epitaphs in this yard have added to its interest. Conspicuous among them is one on the gravestone of the negro John Jack once a slave which is supposed to have been written by Daniel Bliss.
God wills us free ; man wills us slaves. I will as God wills ; God's will be done.
Here lies the body of JOHN JACK A native of Africa who died
March 1773, aged about 60 years.
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Tho' born in a land of slavery, He was born free. Tho' he lived in a land of liberty, He lived a slave, Till by his honest, tho' stolen, labors, He acquired the source of slavery, Which gave him his freedom ;
Tho' not long before Death, the grand tyrant,
Gave him his final emancipation, And set him on a footing with kings. Tho' a slave to vice, He practised those virtues Without which kings are but slaves.
Upon the summit of the hill within an altar tomb are the remains of Rev. Daniel Bliss, at one time Pastor of the Concord church. Near by is a tablet to the memory of the Rev. William Emerson. By the Catholic church, near Main and Bedford streets is a row of tombs in one of which repose the remains of the Rev. Ezra Ripley.
Space forbids a further notice of the names and exact place of sepulture of the honored dead. It is enough to say that the place is teeming with sacred associations of both the near and remote past; and as one looks up to it from the busy highway beneath, he may well feel it is a place unusual even in a town of exceptional interest.
The burying ground supposed to be second in age is on Main street a short distance west of the Bank. Tradition says that the land was given to the town for burial purposes by two maiden ladies. When it was opened for this pur- pose is not known ; but it is designated in the records as existing as a burying ground as early as 1673.
The earliest stone is that of Thomas Hawthorne, who died November 17, 1697, and the next date found there is 1713. There are but few monuments and the stones are mostly slate. Prominent names on these stones are Hay- ward, Buss, Barrett, Miles, Potter, Stratton, Dakin, Jones, Davis, Prescott, Hubbard and Conant.
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