USA > Massachusetts > Norfolk County > Milton > The history of Milton, Mass., 1640 to 1877 > Part 8
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I have found that uniformly in order to trace bowlders to the original bed whence they were derived I must travel either north or north-west a greater or less distance. This discovery was of great use to me, and for the last ten years I have acted upon it very often, and never found it to fail in scarcely a single instance.
The forces that have wrought these wonders I do not here discuss, but the evidences of them are of the deepest interest to the student of nature. Milton presents a most interesting field for such studies in the rich bowlders that lie all around, and especially, in the range of rocky hills over which swept the mighty currents furrowing the top and sides, and through which they may have worn out the openings that now appear.
68
HISTORY OF MILTON.
THE BLUE HILLS.
" Soft, rounded hills, that to my youthful eyes Stood but as Titan guards to Paradise ; Where, all beyond, lay fields of shining bloom, 'Mid fairy scenes bespun in fancy's loom ! To-day ye rise, an epitome of life, With all its varied shades of calm and strife ; Soon as the morning gilds your eastern slopes How the quick spirit leads the buoyant hopes ! Then, as advancing day illumes your vales The hours attempered seem but happy gales, And all the future wears no countervails ; But pass we now beyond the farthest crest, When the slant sun sinks dying on night's breast, How gray the shadows fall! Which life were best?" [H. S.]
The most prominent and attractive feature in our landscape is the range of the Blue Hills, which begins in Canton and Milton, and extends for the distance of nearly seven miles, trending easterly, and then north-easterly, and terminating at President's Hill [called by John Adams, Monticello ], opposite the Old Colony Railroad station in Quincy.
The face of the country assumes new aspects from year to year; here is a field where once was a forest, and here is a vil- lage where once was a farm. But the great outlines change not ;
" The hills, Rock-ribbed and ancient as the sun,"
stand unmoved and unchanged.
In the summer of 1614 Capt. John Smith, when exploring our coast, shot across the mouth of Boston harbor, and caught sight of these hills, which he named "Massachusetts Mount;" and when, at a later date, he got Prince Charles to scatter English names over his map, in place of those which Smith had given, that Royal Sponsor conferred " Chevyot Hills " on Mas- sachusetts Mount.
From that day the hardy adventurer and the home-bound mariner have hailed with joy the blue shadow of these hills, which reveal the first signs of land on nearing this coast. The Indian connected with them his visionary ideas of sanctity and grandeur. From them he named his tribe Massachusetts, which means, in the Algonquin dialect, "The people living near the great hills." All their salient points and silent nooks and hid ing-places were familiar to his wary eye.
69
THE BLUE HILLS.
GREAT BLUE HILL.
The range rises into eleven distinct summits. The highest of these, called Great Blue Hill, is situated in Canton and Milton, and has an altitude of six hundred and thirty-five feet above the sea, which is the highest elevation of land in eastern Massachusetts. It is also believed to be the highest land on the Atlantic coast from Maine to Florida. Nor is there any eleva- tion so great on the Gulf coast from Florida to the Rio Grande.
On this summit a panorama full of loveliness is spread out before the spectator. The elevation is sufficient to give a bird's- eye view of a radius of twenty-five miles, and a circuit of one hundred and fifty miles. Most of the interesting features of the view can be seen with the naked eye, or with an opera-glass. With the aid of the telescope buildings can be identified in one hundred and twenty-five villages.
A mile east of Great Blue Hill is Hancock Hill, five hun- dred and seven feet high, situated in Milton. This hill was once owned by John Hancock. On its south side, on the farm now owned by Mrs. E. M. Cary, are the remains of what is called "Hancock Orchard," and on the north side Hancock's hollow, or valley. In the winter of 1780, which was intensely cold, causing great suffering among the destitute in Boston, the harbor and the water approaches being frozen over, John Han- cock had a large quantity of wood cut from his lot in Milton, probably this hill, and sledded down the river and over the ice to Boston, for gratuitous distribution among the poor.
On Friday next at 2 o'clock will be sold by Public Vendue at the house of the Widow Bent, Innholder in Milton, a number of Lots of Woodland Pasture and Orcharding lying in the town of Milton, and belonging to his Excellency Gov. Hancock. The above land has been lately surveyed and laid out in convenient Lots for the purchasers and the conditions of sale may be known by applying to Russell & Clap.
[Boston Gazette, Feb. 23, 1784.]
A part of the hill was sold by Gov. Hancock at this auction to Capt. Nathaniel Tucker and John Crehore, citizens of Milton.
A mile east of Hancock Hill is Bear Hill, four hundred and ninety-five feet high, situated in Quincy. This might be named, with no little significance, Bare Hill, as it is the most barren of any in the range.
Lying between Hancock and Bear hills is a hill four hun- dred and thirty-nine feet in height, which, for the purpose of designation, will here be called Bugbee Hill. Twenty acres of the northerly portion of this hill, sloping towards Hillside street and including the small house on the south side of Hill-
70
HISTORY OF MILTON.
side street, now belong to Edmund J. Baker, of Dorchester. Early in the present century Mr. Bugbee, who was proprietor of a tavern on Warren street, Roxbury, owned the westerly part of this hill, and built a house in the woods three-fourths of a mile from Hillside street, on the old cart-path extending from the street over the hill.
The spot is easily found, by taking the cart-path on the southerly side of Hillside street a few rods east of the Baker house, and keeping the right-hand path, in sight of the wall, until three ways appear, and then following the path on the left. The cleared lot of more than an acre is walled off from the wilderness, and the garden is separated from the house-lot. Here is a well-defined cellar, 24 × 20 feet, and, a few rods north of the enclosure, a well full of water. Mrs. Farrington, now living in Milton at the age of eighty-two, says that when a little girl she went with her father, Thomas Hunt, to this spot when they were building the house. The story, with all the old people, is that he built in that secluded spot to secure a safe retreat from the British ; and this would have an air of proba- bility had it been built in the time of the Revolution. It is suggested by one of our antiquaries that the story may be traced back to William Bugbee, a resident of Milton in 1776 and before, who may have owned the hill and built there for safety, and that his descendant, the Bugbee of later date, may have been building anew on the same site, or repairing the old house, at the time of Mrs. Farrington's visit.
One mile from Bear Hill, north-easterly, is a hill five hundred and eighteen feet high, the second in height of the range. Hitherto it has borne no definite name. By some it is known as Swan's Hill, by others as Fenno's Hill. In 1800 it was owned by Mr. Swan, of Dorchester. Since then the successive owners have been Mr. Newhall, Captain Macandey, J. M. Forbes, D. W. Tucker, and, at the present time, Richards and others. On this hill are the well-defined stone foundations of a building, indicating the residence of some one now unknown.
South-east of this hill is a smaller hill without a name, prob- ably a lower elevation of the last hill, situated nearly opposite the residence of Hon. David W. Tucker. On the easterly slope of this hill, a mile or more from Randolph avenue, Dr. Gardner, of Dorchester, owned a lot of fourteen acres, inherited from Daniel Vose. The lot was far from any road, and almost in- accessible. The Doctor complained to the Collector of Quincy that it was taxed too high. The Collector replied that he should be glad to purchase it at the assessor's valuation, and the Doctor accepted the offer. After keeping it some twenty
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THE BLUE HILLS.
years the Collector sold at about the price he paid. It passed into other hands. In process of time a plan was made of this mountain land; it was laid out, on paper, into house-lots, with streets and squares, and all the appointments of town and city, and the plan was duly recorded at Dedham, where it may now be seen, the sole remnant of this bogus city. The swindle, if it was so designed, was partially successful, as several lots were sold to those who never saw their purchase except on paper. This tract was sold for taxes, in 1883, to Mr. Charles Breck, of Milton.
Six other summits of the range reach four hundred feet and upwards.
The openings between these summits suggest questions full of interest to the student of the diluvial and glacial periods.
GREAT BLUE HILL.
This summit, being the highest elevation in the region of Boston, has always been a point of interest and resort. In earlier times it seems to have been frequented much more than in our day.
[Rev. Peter Thacher's Journal.] " Oct. 18, 1681. Brother Clapp and his wife, brother Paul and his wife, and we, went upon Blue Hill to the pillar of stones, and Quartermaster [Thomas Swift] came to us there, and divers others ; there we dined; we came home by Brush Hill, they came into our house and drank and smoked it."
On a June morning, more than forty years ago, Edward H. Adams, wishing to enjoy a view of the sunrise from the top of Great Blue Hill, started on foot from his home in East Milton ; he reached the hill and was climbing to the top, in the gray of the morning, when he was startled by the tramp of horses in his rear. The strange hour and place gave a weird effect to every sight and sound. In a moment he was reassured by the appearance of James M. Robbins on horseback, who also was bound to the sunrise on the summit. After expressions of mutual suprise the two citizens travelled to the top in company, and enjoyed the glorious morning view. These sunrise visits were of frequent occurrence among the young people in early times.
BEACONS.
All through the Revolutionary war the top of Great Blue Hill was occupied by soldiery as a point of look-out, whence an enemy, by sea or land, could be descried. Here beacons were erected, and manned with forces sufficient to keep them in working order.
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HISTORY OF MILTON.
[State Archives.] " And it is further ordered that a Beacon be erected at Cape Ann, and another at Marblehead, and another beacon be erected on the height of Blue Hills in Milton; and the Select men or any two of them in any of the towns where such beacon is situated, with any two or more of the commissioned officers nearest the beacons, shall have the care of them, and when an enemys fleet is discovered, shall fire three alarni guns, and where there are bells in towns where such beacons are, shall cause them to be set a ringing, and the beacons to be fired with all expedi- tion.
"Sent down for concurrence."
"JOHN LOWELL, Dep. Sec'y."
IN THE HOUSE OF REPRESENTATIVES, April 30, 1776.
""Read and Concurred."
SAMUEL FREEMAN, Speaker."
" Ordered that General Heath be and hereby is required to erect on the highest of the hills known by the name of the Blue Hills, such beacons or signals as he shall think proper; and it is ordered that said signals shall not be fired, until the signal be given from Beacon Hill in the Town of Boston, unless they have certain evidence of the approach of an enemy from Rhode Island."
" HEAD QUARTERS, BOSTON, Sep. 7, 1778.
"I am to request the favor that you would be pleased to detach from the militia of Weston a capable Sergeant, Corporal and six men, for the pur- pose of attending the beacon in that Town, and a like number from the Town of Milton or Stoughton for that on the Great Blue Hill. Both bea- cons will be finished this day. W. HEATH."
ILLUMINATIONS.
The hill was illuminated on the repeal of the Stamp Act by the British Parliament; on the promulgation of the Declara- tion of Independence; on the surrenders of Burgoyne and Cornwallis ; and, many times, on special occasions.
" When Philip raged with tomahawk and brand, The sentry paced me firelock in hand. When George sent hirelings to repress our cause, The sentry paced me, he that knows no pause."
" Across the way proud Royal tilled the soil, That open plain, with Afric's sable toil ; His right hand fought from Britain to be loose, His left shipped slaves to Antiqua for use." J. SPARE.
Fifty years after the Declaration of Independence, July 4, 1826, the " Crane Guards," of Canton, marched to the top of the hill, and with numerous attendants celebrated the occasion. An oration was pronounced from the highest platform by Will- iam Dunbar, Esq., of Canton, closing with these words: "This mountain is consecrated and hallowed ground, dedicated to Liberty and Independence."
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73
THE BLUE HILLS.
NAVAL BATTLE.
There is a well-authenticated report that the battle of the Ches- apeake and Shannon was witnessed by many citizens of Milton and Canton from this hill. In a monograph by Rear-Admiral Preble, who is authority, it is stated that the record of the log-book of one of the vessels just before the fight was, "6 leagues due east from the Lower Light." The distance from the summit of the hill to the Lower Light is fourteen miles; six leagues beyond this would increase the distance to thirty- two miles. The sea horizon is thirty-three and three-eighths miles distant, while far beyond this sails may be seen. With a clear atmosphere the distance would not seem to prevent an in- distinct view of the fight ; at least the smoke of the battle would be seen. It occurred on the first day of June, 1813, between the hours of five and seven o'clock, P.M. On that day Cap- tain Lawrence is said to have left the wharf for the Chesa- peake, which was anchored off the Light. £ There was great excitement through the whole community, as the arrange- ments and time of the battle were generally known. All the high points commanding the view were covered by anxious observers - the steeples of meeting-houses, Baxter's Hill in Quincy, Milton Hill, and the high ground of Hull, as well as Blue Hill. But little, however, could be seen of this decisive battle of eleven minutes; and the principal testimony which has come down to us is that before the battle seemed hardly to have begun the two vessels were bearing off towards Halifax.
OBSERVATORY.
The top of the hill presents a bald, rocky surface, stretching out several hundred feet, and rising from the surrounding level fifteen or twenty feet at its highest point. Here, May 30, 1798, a foundation of heavy stones was built, twenty-one feet square, and ten feet high. Upon this foundation was erected a structure of wood three stories high, each story ten feet, with substantial flooring, and with plank seats and railing securely fixed around the outside, accessible by stairs on the inside.
The work was devised by the proprietor of the "Billing's Tavern," a hostelry located near the hill, famous a century ago, as a resort for fancy dinners, parties, balls, and summer boarders. The old tavern was taken down in 1885. It was built two hun- dred years ago, and was among the oldest buildings in Milton ; a hall was added at a later date. The neighbors joined in the work of building the Observatory or staging, and the patrons of the tavern freely contributed to it. The passage up the hill
74
HISTORY OF MILTON.
was at the same time repaired, and greatly improved, so that carriages could reach the top. This was accomplished by means of a " Bee," - a favorite method among neighbors, in olden times, of joining willing hands and hearts in securing a much desired object.
The Observatory was not built with a particular reference to science, but specially for the purpose of opening a wider range of vision, and of affording an easy and comfortable position from which to take in the magnificent view. Mr. Billings' carriages were passing up and down the hill with his guests almost daily.
Four years later the structure was blown down, and a second staging was erected. In 1822 citizens now living found it in a dilapidated condition ; it was again repaired by Dr. E. H. Rob- bins, and remained many years, contributing greatly to the pleasure of the numerous visitors on the hill.
One of our citizens well remembers that fifty years ago and more, when he lived near the hill, he was accustomed to con- duct cherry parties, who came to "Cherry Tavern," located on the south of the hill within the borders of Canton, and then kept by John Gerald, to the top of the hill, by a foot-path, on the south side, almost daily, and sometimes twice a day during the cherry season. This was continued for five years, until he removed to another place. The tavern was famed for its cher- ries, and visitors took in the trip to the top of the hill as part of the excursion.
TOWER.
About fifty years ago the authorities of Harvard College erected near the summit a circular stone tower, twelve feet in diameter at the base, about six feet at the top, and twenty feet high. It was set due south from the old Observatory at Cam- bridge, for the purpose of securing a meridian line. The structure was built of stone, the outer course laid in mortar, and filled in solid to the top. The right to occupy the site for this purpose was purchased of William Hunt, and an annual rentage was agreed upon. Apparently great pains were taken to make the column solid and strong, to resist the action of the elements in this exposed position. But the College no longer requiring it for scientific purposes, the hands of time, or more truly of mischief-loving boys, have rolled down stone after stone, until less than ten feet of the tower is left standing. It is sit- uated three hundred and forty-five feet due west from the summit. A curious circumstance occurred after the completion of the tower. At some intervening point, without any knowl- edge or design, but in the natural course of business, a building
75
THE BLUE HILLS.
was erected wholly obstructing the view. The matter was com- promised by the owner of the new building consenting that a valley be cut through the roof so as to open the line of vision between the Observatory and the column.
MASSACHUSETTS TRIGONOMETRICAL SURVEY.
In 1830 the State survey was authorized by the Legislature, and the triangulation was completed about 1840. The map was published in 1844. The work was conducted and completed by Mr. Simeon Borden. He measured a base line of 39,009-73% feet about seven and a half miles, near Deerfield, with extreme pre- cision, marking the ends as primary stations. He selected about one hundred hill-tops for primary stations, marking them with copper bolts set in the ledge. From the base line, he ob- served the angles to the mountain stations, calculating their position and distances, and thus continually extending his angles till the net-work covered the State.
The stations at Nahant and Marblehead were determined by levelling. Observations between them and Blue Hill gave the height of Great Blue Hill as 635.05. Stations to the south were referred to the level of Nantucket Sound and Narragansett Bay, and when finally connected with Great Blue Hill through the triangulation, differed but little from the above result. Borden's Station, on Great Blue Hill, is supposed to have been the centre of the square foundation of the old Observatory, which at that time was in ruins. £ Given data enable us to locate his bolt twenty six feet and three inches S.S.W. of the U. S. Coast Survey bolt, which brings it within the square above referred to; but after the most diligent search it has not been found. Doubtless vandal hands have broken it from its bed, to secure the few pounds of copper it contained. Such has been the fate of the "Borden bolts " on other hill-tops in Massachusetts.
The tower of the new Meteorological Observatory stands over the site of the Borden bolt; a brass plate on the lower floor of the tower marks the position of the bolt 2.2 feet be- low it, in latitude 42° 12' 44" N., longitude 71° 6' 33" W., and 635.05 feet above mean tide.
ALTITUDE.
In 1820 was published Hales' Map of Boston and Vicinity, in which the heights of many points are given, but often greatly in error, as since proved. These measurements are doubtless by the barometer, an instrument very unreliable as used at that time.
76
HISTORY OF MILTON.
This map gives the height of Great Blue Hill, seven hundred and ten feet; Hancock Hill, six hundred and seventy feet; Bear Hill, six hundred and eighty feet; other summits in the range, five hundred and seventy, five hundred and thirty, and three hundred and ninety feet; Academy Hill, two hundred and eight feet; Wadsworth Hill, two hundred and twenty- six feet. These heights are all wrong.
In 1833 appeared Hitchcock's Geology of Massachusetts, in which the elevations are taken from Hales' Map ; and the errors are propagated.
The first reliable measurement of Blue Hill was by the " Borden Triangulation," and the result of 635.05 feet above mean tide is its true height.
" Walling's Official Topographical Atlas of Massachusetts," published in 1871, gives the height of Great Blue Hill at eight hundred and thirty-five feet. The Atlas of Walling is only a reproduction of Borden's Map of 1844, in another form, with new roads, etc., added, and the height of eight hundred and thirty-five feet given in the text of the Atlas is a printer's error for six hundred and thirty-five, and has been so explained by Professor Walling.
The elevation of this hill as given on the Map of Boston and its Environs, published in 1866 by Baker & Tilden, is six hun- dred and thirty-five feet.
Mr. E. G. Chamberlain, of Auburndale, a member of the Appalachian Mountain Club, and an amateur surveyor, whose ardent love for the work has led him to measure the heights of many of our Massachusetts hills, has published in a late num- ber of Appalachia (Vol. III., No. 2) an article on the Blue Hills, with map, in which he states his method of measurement. By triangulation, connecting the summit of Great Blue Hill with the levellings of several railroads on the one hand, and with tide-water at Lower Mills, Milton, on the other, he arrives at results differing but little from that of the State sur- vey, six hundred and thirty-five feet, which he thus proves cor- rect. The altitudes of all the Blue Hill summits, and all the elevations given in Milton, are on his measurement and author- ity, unless otherwise stated.
U. S. COAST SURVEY STATION.
In the summer of 1845 the corps of engineers of the Coast survey took possession of the Great Blue Hill. They had with them all their apparatus, telescopes, cooking utensils and tents. In order to make the summit more easily accessible, they opened
77
THE BLUE HILLS.
a new road from Canton avenue, at the termination of Blue Hill avenue, or at its junction with Canton avenue, and built it up the hill, intersecting the old way a quarter of a mile from the top. By this road supplies and apparatus were conveyed up with but little difficulty. They could also make the ascent in carriages.
Professor Bache erected his marquee on the height, and there passed a part of the summer, at times accompanied by his wife. On every clear day the whole corps was busily occupied, especially in the earlier and later hours of the day, in their important work.
The U. S. Coast Survey Station is 26.25 feet from the centre of the square foundation where was located the Borden bolt. The exact bearing of the U. S. Coast survey bolt from the Borden bolt is N. 15° 37' E. Over the bolt there seen through all the summer of 1845 stood the signal of the station, a tall shaft of wood, surmounted by a cylindrical body of burnished metal. The rays of the sun falling upon this bright surface rendered it visible at the distance of forty or fifty miles, and made this station an important one in the Coast survey.
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