USA > Massachusetts > Hampshire County > Amherst > The history of the town of Amherst, Massachusetts, pt 1 > Part 45
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The North company usually paraded in front of Elijah Boltwood's tavern, but sometimes selected the open space in front of Morton Diekin- son's corner grocery, which stood at the forks of the road near the site now occupied by the house of Rev. Milton Waldo. When the members had grown tired of military exercise, they would regale themselves with hot
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toddy from Dickinson's store. During the excitement attendant on the opening of Triangle street, an account of which is given in a later chapter in this volume, some of the members of the company refused to march through this street. At a regimental parade in 1822, while the men were off duty and their arms were stacked on the village common, one of the guards allowed a man to pick up a musket, which he, supposing that it was not loaded, pointed at a party of men passing by, and discharged. The gun chanced to be loaded, and the bullet struck and killed Dr. Rice, a young physician who had recently located at Enfield. Blank cartridges were in use on muster days, but the gun in question had been borrowed for the occasion and the fact that it was loaded with a ball cartridge was unknown to the borrower.
Rufus Dickinson was commissioned captain of the North company, May 23, 1818, and continued in service until April 23, 1824. Oliver Dickinson, 2d, was commissioned captain of the South company, Aug. 5, 1823, con- tinuing in service until Feb. 18, 1826. Warren S. Howland was commis- sioned captain of the North company, April 24; 1829; major of the 3d regiment, Aug. 17, 1829 ; colonel of the 3d regiment, Jan. 19, 1831. Early in the '3os, the organization of a rifle company and a cavalry company in Amherst caused a falling off in interest in the old companies. They became careless of their appearance and drill, and won the derisive title of the "Floodwood " militia, which clung to them until their organiz- ation was disbanded.
May 24, 1830, Osmyn Baker was commissioned captain of an inde- pendent rifle company, afterwards known as the " Hampshire Rangers." In the organization of this company O. M. Clapp took an active part. Like the North and South companies, it was attached to the 3d regiment of the Ist brigade and 4th division of militia. Other officers of the company on its organization were, Ist lieutenant, Robert Cutler; 2d lieutenant, Hervey Hills. For a long time this was accounted the finest militia company in Western Massachusetts. It is thus described by an old-time admirer : "Taking all things into consideration, the appearance of the men, their beautiful and showy uniforms, the character of the men, the perfection of their drill, marching, etc., there was no company in all New England that could beat them, and I doubt if any out of Boston that did or could equal the Rangers." Capt. Baker was discharged, at his own request, June 20, 1833. There is no record of the company's doings or of the date when it disbanded.
July 4, 1829, Luther Fox was commissioned captain of a cavalry company which had been organized first in Sunderland, removing afterwards to Leverett and thence to Amherst. This company was attached to the 4th regiment of cavalry of the ist brigade. Most of its members were
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HISTORY OF THE TOWN OF AMHERST, MASS.
resident in Amherst, but a few came from Hadley, Belchertown and Pelham. The militia law permitted those liable to military duty to serve in the "horse companies" if they preferred them to the infantry. The company was accounted a fine one in its day, disputing with the rifle company the palm of popularity. The uniforms of the company were blue with red trimmings, a black chapeau ornamented with black plume. Its members were armed with swords and with pistols carried in holsters. Capt. Fox was discharged, at his request, Oct. 21, 1830, and was succeeded in office by Alfred Baker, brother to Osmyn. No trace can be found of the records of either the rifle or the cavalry companies, a fact much to be regretted.
HAT WORN BY HAMPSHIRE RIFLE RANGERS.
In answer to a call signed by 23 men, a meeting was held at the Amherst house. June 29, 1849, to take measures for organizing a military company. J. W. Boyden served as chairman of the meeting. It was voted to form a military company, and, after some discussion. that it be an artillery company. A petition addressed to Gov. George N. Briggs was drawn up and given into the hands of a committee, to circulate and secure signatures to it. The committee, having secured 72 names, forwarded the petition to the governor. At a meeting held July 12, a letter written by Adjutant-General G. H. Devereux, addressed to I. F. Conkey, Esq. was
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AMHERST ARTILLERY COMPANY.
read. General Devereux called attention to the fact that it was customary for towns to provide armories for companies organized within their limits. If the petitioners would arrange to provide in any way a suitable gun- house and armory for the safe-keeping of their equipments, he would at once issue an order to carry the petition into execution. Arrangements were made for complying with the requirements stated in the letter. The matter of a suitable uniform was then discussed, when Joseph Colton agreed to provide for each member of the company a uniform as good in every way as that worn by the members of the Northampton artillery company, at an expense of $15 each. Notice having been given to the adjutant-general that arrangements had been completed for caring for the public property, he issued the following order, dated at Boston, July 24, 1849 :
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" Whereas the Commander in Chief has been notified, that forty-eight men have enlisted for the formation of a Company of Artillery in the Town of Amherst and Vicinity, leave having been granted for the organization of said Company. to be attached as Artillery Company A to the First Battalion of Artillery. 6th Brigade 3d Division M. V. M .: His Excellency directs that a meeting be held immediately for the choice of Officers."
At a meeting. held at the Amherst house, Aug. 11, officers were elected as follows : Captain, I. F. Conkey; Ist lieutenant, Joseph Colton ; 2d lieutenant, William Dickinson, Ist; 3d lieutenant, M. F. Dickinson ; 4th lieutenant, Joseph R. Payson ; Ist sergeant and clerk, J. W. Boyden ; 2d sergeant, J. S. Slate : 3d sergeant, W. H. Lawton ; 4th sergeant, Alonzo Nutting ; 5th sergeant. C. B. Cutter : Ist corporal, D. A. Dickinson ; 2d corporal, W. M. Dickinson ; 3d corporal, A. D. Cushman ; 4th corporal, D. S. Warner. - The company's first drill after organization was held at South Amherst, Aug. 15 ; the second at North Amherst, Aug. 18 ; the third at the center, Aug. 21. Aug. 23, Capt. Conkey acknowledged to the adju- tant-general the receipt of public property as follows : 60 muskets, 60 cartridge boxes, belts and plates, 60 bayonet scabbards and plates, 60 gun slings, five sergeants' swords and belts, five sergeants' bayonet scabbards, 60 priming wires and brushes.
At a meeting held Sept. 4. a constitution and by-laws were adopted, being signed by 48 men. All persons belonging to the company were to provide themselves with the uniform established by law for artillery companies, with the following variation, "a black felt-bodied cap with a wreath and letter A in front and pompous of red and white." The right to use this distinctive badge was granted by special permission of the adjutant- general. The company was to be called out for drill or parade at least twice a year in addition to the trainings required by law. Provisions were made for fining members for absence or neglect of duty ; others related to the discipline of offenders against the rules. Joseph Colton was elected
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treasurer of the company. Sept. 6, Capt. Conkey acknowledged the receipt from the adjutant-general of one snare drum and one fife. The company held its first parade in uniform Sept. 12, on the parade-ground in front of the residence of Dr. Gridley, on Amity street. Sept. 19 and 20, the company attended the battalion encampment. Line was formed in Northampton, "near the burying ground," and the company marched to " Camp Springdale." The other artillery companies in the battalion were from Northampton, Belchertown and Plainfield. Two infantry regiments also took part in the encampment, one composed of companies from Franklin county towns, the other of Hampden county companies. A com- petitive drill of the artillery companies gave the place of honor to North- ampton, with the Amherst company second. Oct. 26, Capt. Conkey acknowledged the receipt of nine tents and fixtures. The company paraded Oct. 31, "cattle-show day," and was greatly admired. In January, 1850, Joseph Colton was promoted to be major in the artillery regiment. The members of the company received from the state $5 each per annum for their services.
May 29, 1850, Capt. Conkey acknowledged the receipt of the following public property : Two brass cannon (six-pounders), two carriages for same. one caisson, three setts of harness for two horses each, one spare wheel and pole, four rammers and sponges, two worms, two linstocks, two port- fire stocks, four haversacks. two portfire cases, two gun-covers, two port- fire clippers, two vent covers, five trail handpikes, three tar buckets, four thumstalls, two sponge buckets, two pouches and belts, three tin hooks, two priming horns, two vent punchers, two priming wires, two prolonges, ten bri- coles, two tangent scales, one pick-axe, one shovel, two tompions, 20 artillery swords, 20 sword-belts. On the same day, the company formed for the first time in the armory just completed for its reception. This armory was a two-story wooden building; it stood a little to the west of the old Amherst house; the cannon were stored in the lower story and the other equipments in the room above. Members of the company were assessed 37 1-2 cents each for fitting up the armory. July 4. 1850. the company celebrated Independence-day by firing a salute, and afterwards marched to Mount Pleasant, where the members were entertained in hospitable manner. News was received. July 13, of the death of President Taylor, and the company fired half-hours guns from 12 o'clock until sunset, displaying the flag upon their armory-building at half-mast in honor to his memory. Badges of mourning were worn by the company, when in uniform, for the ensuing six months. The company attended the annual encampment, Aug. 28 and 29, at " Camp Nonotuck " on the meadows below Northampton.
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EDMUND BOLTWOOD'S COMPANY.
Feb. 15, 1851, William Dickinson was elected captain of the company, in place of I. F. Conkey, discharged at his own request ; William Dickin- son served as captain until May, 1851, when he was discharged that he might accept an appointment as quartermaster on the staff of Col. Hawks of the 3d regiment of artillery ; Marquis F. Dickinson was elected captain of the company, May 21. April 24, 1852, the company, on invitation of the Northampton artillery company, assisted the latter in escorting Louis Kossuth, " the illustrious Hungarian chief," from the depot in Northampton to the house of Erastus Hopkins, and thence to the old church, where he delivered an address. Owing to a freshet which covered the Hadley meadows for 100 yards east of the bridge, the members of the Amherst company were compelled to cross the Connecticut river in boats. The company organization was continued until some time in 1854, but the last entry in the record-book concerning meetings is given under date of Aug. 21, 1852. The regimental encampment in 1852 was held at "Camp Mattoon," on land of Thomas Jones near the place now occupied by Dr. C. A. Goessmann. The encampment in 1854 was held at "Camp Amherst " near Mount Doma, Sept. 5, 6, and 7. Of those who served as the first officers of the company, James W. Boyden was afterwards promoted to be colonel, and I. F. Conkey lieutenant-colonel of the 3d regiment.
A meeting was held Aug. 7, 1869, at the hall occupied by E. M. Stanton Grand Army post, in the interest of raising a militia company in Amherst ; 40 persons present signified their desire to join such an organ- ization. The company was duly organized, was known as Company C, and was- attached to the 2d regiment of the 3d brigade. The following officers, duly elected, received commissions dated Aug. 14, 1869 : Edmund Boltwood, captain ; James A. Baker, ist lieutenant ; Wyett M. Bassett, 2d lieutenant. The non-commissioned officers were as follows : Ist sergeant, Lorenzo Draper ; 2d sergeant, W. S. Cook; 3d sergeant, B. R. Franklin ; 4th sergeant, George H. Bell ; 5th sergeant, W. F. Johnson ; corporals, George H. Walker, George W. Hunt, F. Kentfield, H. Snow, Charles Clapp. J. D. Parsons, Charles Dadmun, E. B. Sears. The Record announced under date of Aug. 19, 1869, that the selectmen had secured the " Velocipede Rink " as temporary quarters for the militia company, but that Agricultural hall was being'fitted up as an armory and would be ready for use in a few weeks. Dec. 13, 1871, James A. Baker was com- missioned captain of the company, Lorenzo Draper ist lieutenant. Charles L. Goodale 2d lieutenant. Feb. 7, 1873, Lorenzo Draper was commis- sioned captain and Frank E. Dickinson ist lieutenant. The company was disbanded about Sept. 1, 1874.
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HISTORY OF THE TOWN OF AMHERST, MASS.
In June, 1887, a petition headed by the name of H. E. Messinger. and signed by prominent citizens of Amherst, including the selectmen. was forwarded to the governor, requesting the appointment of a company in Amherst to be attached to the state militia. The petition was granted in November, the adjutant-general's order specifying that it should be known as Co. K, and be attached to the 2d regiment, Ist brigade of state militia. The company was organized Nov. 19, with 49 members, H. E. Messinger was elected captain, E. G. Thayer ist lieutenant, and W. G. Towne 2d lieutenant. Capt. Messinger soon resigned his office, being succeeded by Willis G. Towne, whose commission as captain bears date April 10, ISSS. On the resignation of Captain Towne, E. G. Thayer was elected captain, his commission bearing date May 22, 1889. In accordance with state law, towns in which military companies are established are obliged to furnish suitable armories for their accommodation, the rental of which is paid by the state. Co. K's first armory was established in Kellogg's block, and was removed in ISSS to Hunt's block. At the annual town-meeting in 1890, the town voted to instruct the selectmen to build a drill-hall on the rear of the town hall lot, appropriating $2,000 to defray the expense. The hall was built during the ensuing summer and fall, and was dedicated with appropriate ceremonies, Dec. 16. In 1894, the policy of the state to con- centrate its militia forces in the cities and larger towns caused the company to be disbanded.
CHAPTER XLIV.
TAVERNS AND STAGE ROUTES .-- BOLTWOOD'S TAVERN .- THE MANSION HOUSE .-- HYGEIAN HOTEL .-- BAGGS' TAVERN .-- INNS AT NORTH, EAST AND SOUTH AMHERST .- EARLY STAGE ROUTES .- STAGE DRIVERS.
The taverns or inns of old New England have furnished to the romance-writer abundant material for fancy to work upon ; to the historian they furnish facts more valuable, if, perchance, less interesting. The centers of social life and activity at home, they were, as well, the gateways to the outer world. They welcomed to their cosy bar-rooms, their bountiful tables and their spacious chambers travelers from all parts of their own and foreign lands. Patterned after their prototypes in England. they became as democratic as the people among whom they flourished. The
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BOLTWOOD'S TAVERN.
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clergy did not disdain their hospitality ; the politicians gathered within their walls for caucuses and conventions ; society assembled at them for balls and receptions. . The complete history of the taverns and hotels of Amherst, could it be written, would contain matter of greater interest than anything which finds a place in these pages, but it remains, and ever must, unwritten history. But a few plain facts are here presented. Some of the Amherst taverns were but small houses, of little more than local repute ; others were known to most of the inhabitants in towns up and down the valley, and to all who traveled over the old stage routes from Boston to Albany. To the latter class belonged the Boltwood tavern at the center village, Baggs tavern at East Amherst and the Cook tavern on the old Bay road. The Clapp tavern, of earlier date, has already been mentioned in connection with the Shays rebellion. Mention has also been made of Warner's and Nash's tavern, and others of the well-known hostelries that flourished in the ante-revolutionary period.
The Warner tavern stood on or near the site now occupied by the Amherst house. It was erected about the year . 1757, since which time a tavern or hotel has ever been located there. The property was owned by Rev. David Parsons, being a part of the land given him by the Third Precinct for his settlement. When he died, in 1781, he willed to his son Gideon " the tavern-house." Gideon Parsons was a licensed innkeeper in 1777, and for many years thereafter. He was succeeded by Joel Dickinson, who conducted the tavern a few years ; he was, in turn, succeeded, in 1804, by Solomon Boltwood, and the latter, in 1806, by Elijah Boltwood. For more than thirty years the Boltwood tavern ranked among the best-known inns in Western Massachusetts. Its genial landlord, its excellent attend- ance, its well-stocked bar, commended it strongly to the traveling public. Many a wayfarer whose route lay through Amherst timed his arrival so that he might enjoy for the night the hospitality of this country inn. Its old registers bore the names of many men of national and some of inter- national fame, while in front of the bar-room fire at night sat doctors of divinity, learned lawyers, members of the General Court and of Congress. And yet, in hospitality it was thoroughly democratic; within its walls the professional man and statesman met on equal terms the man who labored with his hands for a scant subsistence.
There is no picture in existence of the original tavern ; it is doubtful if one was ever made. In the days of Gideon Parsons, it was a small, one-story, wooden building with gambrel roof, painted white in accordance with the fashion of the times. When Elijah Boltwood first took possession it was a two-story structure, but whether a new building, or the old one. remodeled, it is impossible to state with certainty. The ground on which it stood was some twelve to fifteen feet higher than the present street line.
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HISTORY OF THE TOWN OF AMHERST, MASS.
and the building stood some distance back from the highway. The tavern was painted yellow, and from a stout post in front was suspended the old sign of which an excellent likeness is presented on the opposite page. The bar-room was at the front, as became the most important room in an old-time tavern. On the second floor was a ball-room, arched overhead and extending to the roof. Here were held the old-time assemblies and dances, with dinners served on state occasions. About 1821, when Amherst College was established, the wooden building was torn down and a large. substantial three-story building of brick erected in its stead. In the rear was a kitchen, built of wood, one story in height.
Elijah Boltwood, son of Samuel, was born Feb. 19, 1780. He was a kind-hearted man and universal favorite. A married man, but having no children, he was known to nearly everyone as " Uncle Elijah." He dearly loved a joke, possessing also the rare quality of appreciation when the joke was at his expense. Generous almost to a fault, he sought abundance, ease and comfort rather than profit. As one, still living, who knew him. has happily expressed it, he in some way bridged the gap between the different classes. Honored and esteemed by his fellow townsmen, he served them as representative to the General Court in 1829, 1834 and 1835. He devoted much of his spare time to gardening and floriculture ; much of the shrubbery in the old West cemetery was planted by him. When. in 1838, he sold the Boltwood tavern to Harvey Rockwood, he retired to his farm at the foot of the hill on Amity street, afterwards owned by the late Charles S. Smith, where he occupied himself in the culture of fruits and early vegetables until his death, which occurred Feb. 13, 1855.
When Harvey Rockwood bought the tavern he enlarged it by erecting a two-story addition in the rear, along the street line, and by lengthening the kitchen and building a hall over it. The ground surrounding the building was cut away and the cellar made over into a basement which was occupied by the billiard-room, bar-room and saloons. He also changed the name to the Amherst house. Mr. Rockwood sold out in 1845 to Albin P. Howe, and subsequently kept the United States hotel in Hartford, .Conn. He was a quiet, gentlemanly man, highly esteemed by all who knew him. Albin P. Howe was born in Marlboro in 1806 ; previous to engaging in the hotel business he had owned a market in Amherst. He ·conducted the Amherst house successfully for many years, selling out, in 1867, to Francis Kingman, at that time proprietor of the Mansion house at Northampton. Mr. Kingman retained possession about five years, when he sold the property to I. F. Conkey and E. F. Cook, who owned it in partnership until about 1878, when it passed into Mr. Conkey's posses- sion. Mr. Kingman was succeeded as landlord by George L. Parker, who :remained in charge about five years, being succeeded by N. S. Beebe, who
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AMHERST HOUSE -- BURNT IN 1879.
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AMHERST HOUSE AND MERCHANTS' ROW-1896.
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conducted the hotel until it was burned in the disastrous fire of July 4, 1879.
Edward Conkey had bargained for the property and was to have taken possession July 6, 1879. As soon as the rubbish remaining from the fire could be cleared away the work of rebuilding began, and the present Amherst house was completed and ready for occupancy in July, 1880. It is a handsome and substantial structure of brick, four stories in height, occupying two sides of a quadrangle, its east wall 90 feet in length and its north wall 103 feet. Landlord Conkey conducted the house for seven years until Oct. 1. 1887, when it was leased to James B. Ryan for a term of five years. Nov. 7, 1888, Mr. Ryan sold his lease to C. G. Putney, who carried on the business until March 4, 1889, when a new lease was made out to Lorenzo Chase. Mr. Chase continued in possession until April 1, 1894, when D. H. Kendrick became manager of the hotel.
Noah Webster removed with his family from Amherst in 1822. The large house he built and resided in, near the east end of Phoenix Row, was soon afterwards converted into a hotel. In 1828, it was conducted by Russell Cooley, who was succeeded, in 1832, by Thomas Gilbert, better known as "General " Gilbert. In 1837, the house was conducted by Aurelius Dickinson, who owned it at the time it was destroyed by fire, in February, 1838. It was known as the Mansion house and was in its day a popular hostelry.
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The Hygeian hotel, to the east of Phoenix Row, was opened to the public Aug. 15, 1851. It was first conducted by Henry Frink. He was succeeded, in 1853, by A. P. Spaulding, and the latter. in 1855, by R. S. Lincoln. Mr. Lincoln changed the name to the American house, and conducted the business successfully until 1864, when he was succeeded by J. B. Wood. The hotel business was given up in November, 1868, since which time the building has been used for residence and business purposes. A glance at the hotel registers shows that the house was a popular one, entertaining many distinguished guests.
In 1853, the Amherst and Belchertown railway company built a house on Main street just east of the railway tracks, for the use of one of its conductors. This house was purchased in 1857 by Simon W. Whitney. who christened it the Union house and conducted it as a hotel. In 1865. Mr. Whitney sold the property to Tabor T. Sisson, who has owned and managed it since that time.
The property at the northwest corner of Pleasant and Amity streets was purchased in 1868 by William L. Gunn. It was opened as a hotel. May 4, 1877. Nov. 20, 1882, Mr. Gunn sold the property to Frank P. Wood. Mr. Wood conducted a hotel on the premises for nearly ten years. meeting with excellent success. He sold the property in April, 1892, to
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HISTORY OF THE TOWN OF AMHERST, MASS.
Lorenzo Chase, since which time it has been known as the " Amherst House Annex."
John Baggs was a licensed innholder at East Amherst as early as 1818. His tavern was one of the best-known in this section. In 1820, it was the established place for holding probate court. In 1828, it was the headquarters of the democratic party in town, where caucuses were held and the politicians gathered in the bar-room of an evening to discuss the state of the country. It was famous for the excellence of the liquors served over its bar and the royal good times that were enjoyed by those who loved the liquors, not wisely but too well. It was a favorite gathering place for the old stage-drivers, who found in its toddy and its flip a power- ful antidote against winter's cold and summer's heat. In 1825, and for several years thereafter, the tavern was conducted by Luther Waite. In 1830, the proprietor was Josiah Sprout. In 1834, Mr. Sprout was succeeded by Amasa Davis, better known as " Dr.". Davis. In 1835, Sumner Gates was in possession, but his license did not permit the sale of liquors. Mr. Gates was succeeded in 1836 by Alpheus H. Hyde. In 1842, and for several years afterward, the house was again owned by John Baggs. In I856, it was owned by P. T. Donovan, who changed its name to the " Exchange hotel." Mr. Donovan carried on the business until his death in 1865 ; the house is now occupied by his widow.
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