USA > Massachusetts > Hampshire County > Amherst > The history of the town of Amherst, Massachusetts, pt 1 > Part 46
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In 1831, Leonard M. Hills was a licensed innholder and kept a tavern at East Amherst in the house now owned and occupied by John Pitman. Mr. Hills was succeeded by Charles Rust, in 1833. In 1846, Simon W. Whitney kept a tavern at East Amherst, which he called the " Hampshire House." His license as innholder did not permit the sale of liquor on the premises. - Mr. Whitney sold the house in 1856 to Henry Davis : the latter was succeeded by James Goodspeed. Later on the property passed into the hands of the Second parish and the house was used as a parsonage. When the building now used as a parsonage was erected, the old building was removed a few rods and sold to Loren Ball, who now occupies it. For several years in the early part of the century Andrew Kimball, com- monly known as " Master " Kimball, kept a tavern in what is now known as the " Warner house," yet standing, in "Hawley Swamp."
As early as 1818, Rufus Kellogg was a licensed innkeeper and kept a tavern at the "City." He sold the place to Leprelate Draper who occupied it as a residence. Solomon Bond, a licensed innkeeper in 1803, kept a tavern on what is known as the " Howard place " at North Amherst. He sold out to Stephen Weeks. Mr. Weeks was licensed as an innkeeper in 1828; in 1832, he kept a tavern at his house in the northwest part of the town on what is known as the Lyman Smith place. He continued in business until along in the '4os. Oliver Dickinson kept a tavern at North
HYGEIAN HOTEL, AFTERWARDS AMERICAN HOUSE.
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FIELD BUILDING-1859, NOW CHASE'S BLOCK.
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TAVERNS AT NORTH AND SOUTH AMHERST.
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Amherst in the closing years of the 18th century. John Dickinson, son of Nehemiah, built a house at North Amherst which he intended to conduct as a tavern, but his cousin Oliver having opened a public house in the near neighborhood he gave up the project for the time. His son Chester opened the house as a tavern in ISI0 and conducted it for many years. " Squire Chester," as he was known, was a typical New England landlord, bluff, hearty, mindful of the comfort of his guests. The tavern, a large three-story building with a gambrel roof, was the best-known of any in the north part of the town. The property was sold in the '3os to Joshua Hobart, who used the house as a residence. It stood on the site of the dwelling house now occupied by William A. Smith, and was torn down in May, 1884.
Roswell Paine was a licensed innholder in 1803, and Mary Paine was licensed in 1806. There was a " Paine tavern " conducted for many years on Shays street at South Amherst, in what was known as the "Mossman house," which was burned in 1888. Jonathan Bridgman was a licensed innkeeper in 1815, as, at a later time, was Theodore Bridgman. The Bridg- man tavern was located on the Bay road at South Amherst, in the house now occupied by Mrs. C. M. Porter. In 1825, and for several years there- after, Ansel Percival kept a tavern on the green at South Amherst, the house standing on the site now occupied by William H. Smith's barn. In 1821, Joab Bartlett kept a tavern on the Bay road at South Amherst ; he was succeeded in 1826, by Dwight Bartlett, and the latter, in 1828, by James Cook. Mr. Cook called his tavern the American hotel. It was a wooden building two stories in height, with an ell extending to the north. It stood on the site of the house now occupied by John J. Moriarty, and was burned Sept. 29, 1876. It was a famous tavern in its day.
The above list contains the names of the principal taverns and hotels that have been conducted in Amherst during the present century. It is known that others existed, but little reliable information can be obtained concerning them. The licensed innkeepers in Amherst in 1800 were George Williamson, Abigail Rood. Stephen Smith, Medad Dickinson and Joshua McMaster. George Williamson was, in 1804, a resident of the West Middle District. The house now occupied by Rev. Nelson Scott was known at one time as the Williamson tavern. The Rood family lived in the northeast part of the town, the McMaster family at the south. The house recently occupied by James Cowles, at North Amherst, was known in early times as Smith's tavern. In 1801, Nathan Tuttle, John Pynchon and John McMaster were licensed innholders. In 18o2, Joel Billings kept a tavern at East Amherst. In 1803, Charles Williamson, Ithamar Smith and Ebenezer Ingram were innkeepers. In 1807, Earl
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HISTORY OF THE TOWN OF AMHERST, MASS.
Albee kept a tavern, probably in the north part of the town. In 1809, and for several years thereafter, Samuel D. Ward kept a tavern, probably at East Amherst. Sessions of the probate court were held at Ward's tavern in 1809 and 1817. In 1814, Isaac Goodale kept a tavern, probably at the south part of the town. H. Wright Strong was a licensed innholder in 1824.
As the hotels of the present day depend largely upon the railway lines to furnish them with patrons, so did the old-time taverns depend upon the stage routes to provide them with guests. Amherst, being on the direct route between Boston and Albany, enjoyed early in the century the advantages of connection by stage line with the outer world. Amherst had regular communication with Boston and that part of the world, as well as with Lake Champlain, as early as 1759, when Christopher Page made regular trips between Boston, Amherst and Deerfield. Beyond Deerfield. the service was by military couriers. Page carried letters, newspapers, small packages, and did all sorts of errands. In 1761, Silent Wilde took the route and served until 1775, or later. He owned a farm in Shutesbury, and was so well liked that, when Massachusetts seized the crown post- office in 1775, and established a service of its own, it did not disturb the very important line from Boston, via Amherst and Deerfield, to Lake Cham- plain. No passengers were carried by this line. One of the first stage routes through Amherst followed the line of the Bay road. "Fast mail " coaches leaving Boston at 5 A. M. passed Bartlett's tavern at 3 P. M. The coaches always stopped at this tavern to allow the passengers to take a "warmer " or a " cooler " as the season demanded. While the passengers were entertained at Bartlett's, the coach-horses were allowed a drink a little further along the road, where three little mountain streams come together at the road line uniting to form Plum brook. For more than a century this has been a favorite watering-place for men and teams. After the surrender of Burgoyne, a large body of the captured troops marched over the Bay road to Boston and stopped at this place to fill their canteens. This watering-place, and the one at Bridgman's tavern, further east. have changed but little in the past century. In later days this line of stages was owned by the Clapp brothers of Belchertown and Pittsfield. The regular fare from Northampton to Boston was $4, but this was sometimes reduced by competition to $1 and even less.
In 1830, Amherst was situated on what was known as the . north route " between Boston and Albany. Stages were run from Boston to Ware, where the routes separated, one passing through Palmer, Framing- ham, Springfield and Westfield, while the other continued on through Bel- chertown, Amherst, Hadley, Northampton, Worthington and the hill towns of Hampshire and Berkshire to Pittsfield, where the two routes united and
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STAGE LINES.
were continued as one line to Albany. In 1830, the stage for Amherst left Earle's hotel, 36 Hanover street, Boston, Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays at 2 A. M .; returning, it arrived in Boston Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays at 7 P. M. In September, 1827, Cotton Smith started a stage route from Amherst to Boston. Stages left Boltwood's tavern on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays at I P. M., returning Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday afternoons. Col. Moses Leonard was the agent of the line at Amherst. A stage route from Hartford, Conn. to Brattleboro, Vt. passed through Amherst. It was owned at one time by Chapin & Frink and after- wards by Chapin & Damon.
In 1844, Henry S. Bacon of Northampton ran an "accommodation line " of stages between Northampton and the railroad at West Brookfield, via Amherst, Enfield and Ware, " making the cheapest and pleasantest route to Worcester and Boston." Stages left Northampton every day, Sundays excepted, at 7-30 A. M., and " intersected " at Belchertown with the Belchertown and Palmer route. In 1846, John E. Albee owned a stage route from Amherst through Leverett, Shutesbury, North Prescott and New Salem to North New Salem. Stages left Amherst Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays at 8 A. M., returning the same day, and carried the mails. The route was afterwards extended to Orange. The business has changed hands many times in the past half-century, but the line is still in operation. In 1849, a stage left Amherst for South Deerfield at 7 A. M., " intersecting " at South Deerfield with the first train from Springfield; returning, the stage left South Deerfield at 12-30 P. M.
In 1850, stages left Amherst for South Deerfield, Montague and Brat- tleboro at 6-30 A. M .; for Northampton, at 7-45 A. M. and 3-45 P. M .: for Palmer, at 8-45 A. M. In 1851, Smith & Crosby ran a stage line from Amherst to Palmer Depot, the stage leaving Amherst daily at 9 A. M. and arriving here on its return at 3 P. M. The fare to Boston via Palmer was $3. In 1862, C. P. Aldrich owned a stage route between Amherst and Northampton, and sold tickets from Amherst to Springfield for $1. Pas- sengers living within one mile of the Amherst house were called for free of charge. Mr. Aldrich sold the route to J. J. Young ; the latter sold to Wm. P. Smith, and he, in turn, was bought out in 1865 by E. F. Cook, who conducted the business until the Central Massachusetts railroad was opened in 1887, when it was given up.
The stage-driver of olden times was a personage of no small impor- tance. On the road, his powers were autocratic; he could make life a pleasure or a burden for his passengers at will. The innkeepers along the route deferred to his wishes and treated him to the best their bars held in store. His was the sole responsibility for coach and horses and passengers and mail and merchandise committed to his charge. The duties of
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HISTORY OF THE TOWN OF AMHERST, MASS.
engineer, conductor, mail and express agent of the modern train, rested on him alone. He knew each mile of his route as the modern pilot knows . each rock and shoal and current of the harbor. The qualifications neces- essary to make a good driver were many and exacting. He must be an expert reinsman, capable of making any repairs necessitated by accident to coach or harness, impervious to heat or cold, rain-proof and wind-proof, a cyclopedia of information regarding his own and connecting routes. The men who combined these qualities in high degree were rare, and gained more than local reputation. Such men were Abijah Shumway of Belcher- town and his sons Loren and "Dan," Robert Brown, also known as "Steady " Brown of Montague, for many years Chapin & Damon's agent at Amherst; Jonathan Slate, the well-known " Judge " Slate of Amherst, " Parson " Simmons, George Stocking, Noah Wright, Charles King of Hubbardston and Benjamin 'Allen of Amherst. Many anecdotes of their sayings and doings might be related, but the following must suffice. A man once inquired of "Judge " Slate the condition of the roads between Amherst and Northampton ; "Capital," replied the "Judge "; " there are only two wet spots on the road." The man drove on, and soon found his wagon surrounded by a sea of mud which continued all the way into North- ampton ; meeting Slate soon after, he angrily enquired what he meant by saying there were but two bad places on the road. "Why," said Slate. " that's all there are; one this side of the bridge, and one the other."
CHAPTER XLV.
LIQUOR SELLING AND INTEMPERANCE .- DRINKING HABITS IN EARLY TIMES .- FIRST EFFORTS TO CHECK THE EVIL .- TEMPERANCE ASSOCIATION AT SOUTH AMHERST .- WASHINGTON TOTAL ABSTI- NENCE SOCIETY AT EAST AMHERST .- WASHINGTON SOCIETY AT NORTH AMHERST .- WEST CENTER SOCIETY .- REFORM CLUB .. --- W. C. T. U .- GOOD TEMPLARS ORGANIZATIONS .- LIQUOR LICENSES.
Mention has been made in a preceding chapter of this History of the drinking habits of the earlier residents in Amherst. In these habits they were not peculiar, simply following the fashion of their times. It is almost impossible, in later times and under changed conditions, to write of
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THE USE OF LIQUOR.
the liquor problem as it existed in the closing years of the 18th and the opening years of the 19th centuries, without doing something of injustice to those who upheld a system which has since come to be looked upon as pernicious and degrading. The part that liquor then bore in social, business and community life was honored if not honorable. Total abstinence from liquor, while not unknown, was looked upon as an eccen- tricity rather than a virtue. The minister drank liquor with his deacons, the lawyer with his clients, the doctor with his patients. A " raising " without the presence of liquor was unknown; ministers drank flip at ecclesiastical councils and ordinations ; hardly a trade was made at the village store without "something to wash it down." The merchants generally kept a larger stock of "wet goods " than dry goods, finding for the former a more ready market returning a greater profit on the investment. No stigma attached to liquor-selling ; the leaders in the business were generally the leaders in town and church matters as well. Drunkenness, while not encouraged, was tolerated, carrying with it no special disgrace.
Just how early in the present century systematic efforts were first made to abate the evils of intemperance in Amherst, cannot be stated with absolute certainty. It is known that Rev. Daniel A. Clark, during his pastorate at the First church, which lasted from 1820 to 1824, was an ardent advocate of temperance doctrines, so ardent that many of his parish- ioners took frequent occasion to expostulate with him for being too radical. Rev. W. W. Hunt, pastor of the North church from 1827 to IS37, was also a strong opponent of the liquor evil. The first temperance society in Amherst of which there is record was organized among the students of Amherst College in the spring term of IS27 ; it numbered 97 members. During that term there had been a powerful revival of religious interest at . the college. That the subject of intemperance had begun to attract public attention as early as 1827, is shown by an advertisement of "Dr. Chamber's Remedy for Intemperance," published in the New England Inquirer under date of Sept. 7. This advertisement stated that, " The astonishing success which this remedy has obtained in restoring habitual inebriates to sobriety, has established its virtues beyond all contradiction, and supersedes the necessity of any further comment." The "Remedy" was put up in packages " sufficient for one individual cure," and was sold at $5 per package. Who shall say that this " Remedy " did not contain the germis of some of the many later-day " liquor cures?"
The Inquirer, under date of May 15, 1828, stated : " We have recently noticed that many merchants in different sections of the country have resolved to discontinue the practice of selling ardent spirits. We under- stand that a merchant has opened a store in this village in which no intox- icating liquors will be kept for sale. A public house also has just been
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HISTORY OF THE TOWN OF AMHERST, MASS.
opened in which it is designed to try the experiment of accommodating the public without the usual arrangements of a bar." Here, indeed, were startling innovations; a store without liquors, a tavern without a bar ! How the old inhabitants must have shaken their heads in disapproval and predicted the speedy failure of the daring spirit that had thus violated all precedent ! In June, 1828, Rev. Dr. Woodbridge of Hadley visited Amherst for the purpose of establishing societies auxiliary to the county society for the promotion of temperance. It is stated that he met with encouraging success, but if societies were organized in Amherst at that time their records have passed from existence. Under date of July 31, 1828, the Inquirer announced :
" We are doing something here in opposition to the cause of the lovers of Strong Drink, although we find it difficult to induce all the temperate men among us to array themselves against intemperance and drunkenness. It is so pleasant to 'wet the trade' and . take a little stimulus' that many men-We will say no more except that an interesting and appropriate address was delivered at the Academy on the 28th by one of the students and upwards of fifty subscribed the constitution of a Society designed to aid in freeing our land from the pestilence that walketh in darkness & the destruction that wasteth at noon-day."
In August, 1828, the selectmen of Amherst issued a notice cautioning all persons, except such as were duly licensed therefor, against selling any spirituous liquors, either upon the common or in any field in the town of Amherst, on the day of the Amherst College commencement. The Inquirer, in editorial comment, expressed its gratitude to the selectmen " for their willingness to make a stand against the scandalous practice of erecting tents, etc., on the common, on the highway, and even on the side- walks, for the accommodation of revellers." This notice and comment would serve to show that commencement-day at Amherst College in the '2os was of more importance as a public occasion and was observed in different fashion than in later years.
From memoranda found among the papers belong to the late Samuel C. Carter, something has been learned of the quantity of spirits consumed in Amherst in the early part of the century. In 1828, one hundred and fifty hogsheads of rum, gin and brandy were sold in the town at an average price of $100 per hogshead, making some $15,000 that the inhabitants paid for liquor, an amount fully equal to that expended for flour and grain during the same year. Much of this liquor was imported by the merchants and tavern-keepers, but Amherst had a distillery of its own, where over three thousand barrels of cider were distilled every year into cider brandy. This distillery stood in the rear of the Merrill lot, on the east side of the common, and refuse matter from it ran down through the ravine in the rear of the High school building. Early in the 'zos, when excavations were
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THE WASHINGTON SOCIETIES.
being made for a fish-pond on land owned by the late Julius H. Seelye, the aqueduct of logs which brought water into the distillery was discovered, in a perfect state of preservation. The distillery was owned in the early part of the century by Sylvester Cowls, and was sold by him in 1827 to Harvey Gilbert.
A temperance society was in existence at South Amherst as early as IS35. At a meeting of the " Temperance Association " held at the center school house in that part of the town, Dec. 2, 1835, a committee was appointed to draft a new constitution " based upon the principles of total abstinence from all intoxicating liquors." Under the constitution prepared and adopted, the organization assumed the name of the " Amherst South Parish Total Abstinence Society." Feb. 2, thirty persons who had sub- scribed to the society's pledge, met and organized by choice of the follow- ing officers : President, Timothy Smith ; secretary, Jacob Stetson ; executive committee, Dea. Adams, Jonathan C. Warner, Joseph Dana. March 13, 1836, the society voted to hold meetings as often as once a month ; and to secure, if possible, the services of some person, once in two months, to give a temperance address. Feb. 12, 1840, it was voted to resolve the society into a temperance lyceum for the term of eight weeks.
In the early '4os, the Washingtonian temperance movement assumed great power and influence throughout New England. County societies were formed, with auxiliaries in the several towns, and a vigorous and systematic campaign was inaugurated against the liquor evil. March 16, 1842, the temperance society at South Amherst was reorganized, assuming the name of the " South Amherst Washington Total Abstinence Society," auxiliary to the Washington Total Abstinence society of Hampshire county. The following were elected officers: President, Zebadiah W. Robins ; vice-presidents, Salmon Dickinson, Benjamin Andrews ; secretary and treasurer, Erastus S. Bridgman; executive committee, Lieut. Enos Dickinson, S. M. Wright, Louis McLoud, Hosea Goodale, Alva Robins. The last entry in the society's record book bears date Nov. 15, 1843.
At a meeting held March 9, 1842, a temperance society was organized at East Amherst. Officers were elected as follows: President, Capt. Benoni Rust; vice-president, Jonathan Dickinson ; secretary, Hiram E. Fox. A committee was appointed to draft a constitution, which was adopted at a meeting held March 16. The preamble to this constitution reads as follows :
" Whereas having long experienced and witnessed the evil effects of the use of intoxicating liquors, and fully believing that a longer continuance of the practice would be detrimental to our religious, society and moral happiness, we have asso- ciated together for the purpose of suppressing entirely the use of it as a drink, and to use our endeavors to reclaim the unfortunate among us and correct the habits of
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HISTORY OF THE TOWN OF AMHERST, MASS.
those who are indulging in practices which we believe are leading them to ruin and endangering the comfort and happiness of themselves, their families and those around them."
The name adopted was the "Washington Total Abstinence Society of Amherst East Street." Anyone might become a member by signing and keeping the Washington pledge. Meetings were to be held at such times and places as the executive committee should direct. The society should not be political or sectarian in aims or practices. The pledge, identical with that adopted by other Wasingtonian societies, reads as follows :
"The members of this society agree that they will never again drink any intoxicating liquors, except when prescribed by a medical attendant. or in case of wine at communion, and that they will not provide them for their friends or for persons in their employ, and that they will in all suitable ways discountenance the use of them in the community, and above all that they will use their utmost endeavor to reclaim and restore to temperance those who are unfortunately addicted to intemperance."
This pledge was signed by 236 persons. The society entered at once upon the work of abating the liquor evil in the community. At a meeting held July 9, a committee was appointed to wait upon Mr. B --- , a prom- inent innholder, and " see if he would do anything that would be satisfactory to the society." This committee reported at a meeting held Aug. 3, that Mr. B- was in the house and would answer for himself. Mr. B- arose and stated that he was willing to pledge his word and honor that he would not sell or give away any liquor for the year to come. A motion was made to see if the society would accept the proposals of Mr. B -- and it was voted that they would not. It was then moved that the bond be presented to Mr. B ---- , but he declined signing it. A motion was then passed that the president take Mr. B --- by the arm and walk up to the table and present him the pledge of the society, but he replied that he wished to take another glass before he signed it. It was then voted that the society wait until he could go home and get a glass. After several other attempts had been made to bring the obdurate brother into the temperance fold, it was voted that the president should take the bond and pledge and wait upon Mr. B- during the week and report " what progress he had made." At a meeting held some weeks later, the society voted to accept the promise of Mr. B --- that he would not sell or give away liquor to the townspeople or travelers : " the society not thinking they had any right to prevent his giving liquor to his hands, did not push the matter."
At a meeting held Dec. 8, 1842, " Mr. Thomas Goodell being present. stated that he found it absolutely necessary to use spirits inwardly on account of his rheumatic complaints and that he should continue the use of
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SOCIETIES AT NORTH AMHERST AND THE CENTER.
it. and requested that his name might be stricken off from the list of members." The society was reorganized, May 18, 1849, when a new con- stitution was adopted. Soon after this date the organization was given up.
March 14, 1842, a meeting was held at the Congregational church at North Amherst of persons interested in forming a total abstinence society. An organization was formed and the following officers elected : President, Chester Dickinson ; vice-presidents, Dr. Silas Ball, Edward C. Weeks, Charles Kellogg, Esq .; secretary, Albert W. Ball : treasurer, Baxter Eastman. There was also an executive committee consisting of eight members. A committee was appointed to draft a constitution ; this committee reported at a meeting held March 21, when the constitution was adopted, the soci- ety assuming the name of the " Washington Total Abstinence Society of North Amherst," auxiliary to the Washington society of Hampshire county. Feb. 20, 1843, the society voted that regular meetings should be held on the third Monday of March, May, July, September, November and January. April 3, 1848, a committee appointed to "search out defected spots in the society," reported five names, which were dropped from the roll, but were afterwards restored on request of their owners. Nov. 12, 1848, the follow- ing vote was passed : "Whereas the Hampshire County Total Abstinence Society has been merged in the Hampshire County Temperance Union, we transfer our relations to that society." Meetings were held by the society until the spring of 1852.
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