USA > Massachusetts > The story of western Massachusetts, Volume I > Part 17
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AN OVERLAND JOURNEY IN 1645
narrows; in other words, points of land extending from the eastern and western shores in two places nearly divide the lake into three bodies of water. The southern narrows are deep, and the points are too rugged for a fordway, whereas the shallow water at the northern narrows and the contour of the two points made an easy crossing place. Old residents, as well as authentic records, tell that the "narrows" were originally hardly more than a shallow, narrow brook six to ten feet wide, and were used as a ford from earliest
The Original "One-Hoss Shay" in the Berkshire Museum, Pittsfield
days. The channel has since been dredged and deepened, and the level of the whole lake raised by power dams.
A suggestion by Mrs. Fannie Hardy Eckstorm, authority on New England Indian names, seems to substantiate the inference that this was Winthrop's most likely crossing place. Squabage, she points out, might mean "watching place," a description which very aptly applies to the upper narrows. The Indian name, Chaubunagungamaug, or Chaubunakungamaug, furthermore, means "boundary fishing-place," and the lake was probably roughly a part of the boundary of the Nip- muck territory.
Winthrop's remark that, once across, failing to find the "path by which the soldiers formerly crossed over," he consequently "made straight for Agawam," is of interest since it has a bearing upon differences of opinion regarding the routes which early travelers followed to Agawam and to Hartford. In this controversy, some main- tain that the better and more direct way to the Connecticut River
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valley was the Connecticut Path, described as crossing the Quinnebaug River by a ford at Maanexit, near Fabyan, Connecticut, and continu- ing to Wabaquassit (Woodstock), and thence to Windsor or Hartford; while others believe that the route went to the fishing grounds at the falls of the Chicopee River in present Ludlow and Chicopee and thence down the river.
Winthrop's graphite mine was located in the present Southbridge, apparently at, or not far distant from, an indefinite place which he calls Tantiusques, and has been worked intermittently during the past 290 years. Winthrop evidently knew that if he continued on the trail to Agawam he would pass a few miles northward of it, and it was his evident intention to turn south at some point and visit it. The Agawam trail continued westward and kept well north of the Quinne- baug River until it traversed the approximate locations of the present Southbridge, Sturbridge, and Fiskdale, where it approached the river- side, at times closely. If we are to assume that on this day Winthrop traveled about the same distance that he had on other days, he would probably pass the night somewhere in the vicinity of Fiskdale, which is approximately fifteen miles from Chaubunagungamaug. It is also known from other sources that there were many Indians in this terri- tory, a fact borne out by Winthrop's purchase of venison as well as grain for his horse from them.
"November 15. Saturday. Many Indians arrive, men, women, boys and girls, loaded with venison and household wares. They told us we were on the Agawam route. They were willing to guide us to Tantiusques if we so desired, but it seemed better to go on to Agawam. The snow did not melt all that day, but it was below the freezing point with a strong N. W. wind. We spent the night about 6 miles from Sprinkfeild [sic], collecting pine boughs and arranging them in the manner of Indian huts against the force and cold of the wind and spreading out grass for a bed and covered with nets filled with grass and with blankets we spent the night quite comfortably."
It is evident that word had been passed around of Winthrop's approach. The Indians, plainly friendly and ever anxious to trade, desired to sell him food and other wares. His refusal to accept their offer to guide him to Tantiusques is probably explained by the snow, which would prevent his viewing the locality or the outcroppings of the graphite very well. At any event, he continued on his way and probably passed through the Indian locality known as Ashquoash (later Quabaug Old Fort) just north of the present Brimfield, over Steerage Rock Mountain, and down the west side and across the beautiful meadow to approximately the spot where the present Brim- field road bridges the Quabaug River. There the trail forked; a part crossed the river at the shallow water and went on to the falls at Had- ley, but Winthrop took the westerly branch, which continued to the Chicopee Falls, keeping on the south side of the river and going through the lower part of the present town of Palmer, over a path
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AN OVERLAND JOURNEY IN 1645
which traversed approximately the route of the street through the State Hospital grounds, east and west. Then he went over Bald Peak and down the western side to North Wilbraham.
His route from North Wilbraham to Springfield varied a little from that of the present Boston road, but since he states that he spent the night about six miles from Springfield, we can very closely locate the spot as west of Stony Hill, by the riverside near Ludlow or Indian Orchard. These are known Indian locations, and later records indicate that they were far better fishing places than Holyoke or Windsor. At an early date the settlers of Springfield cut a path to that vicinity to join the eastward trail.
Winthrop's remarks concerning the manner in which Indian huts were sometimes constructed is of interest. He also mentions here for the second time his use of nets stuffed with grass, which made a soft mattress or a warm covering much needed on the hard, cold November ground.
"November 16. Sunday. Clear. Rested in the afternoon. A little before night we reached Springfeild and the house of Master Pinchon. There the whole river was frozen above the falls [at Windsor]."
William Pynchon, the founder and foremost citizen of Spring- field, was associated with Winthrop both as a friend and in a business way. The cold weather is also vouched for by Governor John Win- throp, Senior, who records that the winter of 1645-1646 was the earliest and coldest experienced since the first arrival of the Boston colony in 1623.
"November 17. Monday. About 10 o'clock or a little before, we started for Hartford. The small streams were frozen over so that they would hold both us and our horse. We had to wait a long while for the ferry to take ourselves and horse to Windsor so that it was evening even before crossing the river. On the main road in Windsor we crossed on a ferry where there had formerly been a bridge, but this had been swept away by a flood. The whole day was pleasant but cold before night. Master Allen accompanying us to the part of the correct route where it is easy to go astray, we reached Hartford about 9 o'clock and the house of our host, Thos. Ford."
After the Sunday rest, Winthrop traveled down the eastern side of the river, where the path followed along the edge of the meadow at the foot of the hill which bordered it. The Windsor ferrying place, about a mile north of the village, was known as "Bissell's Ferry", from the family which operated it. Once over, he turned southward towards Windsor and on the main road in the town had to ferry . across another river, the Tunxis or Farmington.
Matthew Allyn was an original Hartford settler who bought the Plymouth Company's land in Windsor and moved thither by 1644. The "correct route" refers to the early road to Hartford through the Plymouth meadow, which was the planting ground of the farmers.
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The farmers objected to the location of this way, and in 1638, by court orders, an upland road was put under development. Hartford com- pleted its section and kept it in good condition but the Windsor end was bad. and travelers persisted in going the meadow way. This situ- ation was confusing to a stranger. hence Mr. Allyn's guidance. At Hartford Winthrop stopped at the town's first inn, established by Thomas Ford late in 1644.
Winthrop was eleven hours going from Springfield to Hartford. which is twenty-seven miles. This is by far his longest day's travel on the trip and would seem to indicate better paths or roads.
"November 18. Stayed at Hartford. The governor and the offi- cials had gone to their country place in Tuncsis [Farmington].
"November 19. Wednesday. Having got a Mohego Indian to carry our things. I set out for Saybrook by land. For the river was frozen over so that the boats. Jonathan Trumbull and the Phoenix of New Haven were tied up, not having enough water even before it froze. Also a small boat, Thomas Stanton, and a ferryboat from Say- brook. We crossed the Matabeset and other small streams on the ice and reached the house of an Indian named Wehasse, where we slept that night in the house of an Indian named Seanuxut. Cold and fair all day.'
Winthrop evidently left his horse at Hartford; otherwise he would have had no need of an Indian to carry his baggage. He had apparently planned to go to Saybrook by water, had not the boats been tied up by low water and ice. The exceptionally cold weather aided him in crossing the streams as he followed the trail southward to Say- brook. The dwellings of Wehasse and Seanuxut he calls "houses," and probably he meant just that, for the English often constructed houses for important and friendly natives. Seanuxut, under whose roof he slept for the night, may have been Seancut. a prominent Hartford Indian who later traded with John Pynchon of Springfield.
"November 20. Thursday. Reached Saybrook a little before eve- ning. Clear and cold.
"November 21. Stayed by Saybrook. Clear and calm. Toward evening S. and S.S.E. wind. A boat crossed to the west. It started a little after midnight to rain.
"November 22. Stayed at Saybrook. N.W. wind. Cloudy. A boat called the [a catch] came from the west and dropped anchor before the harbor on the eastern side."
At Saybrook Winthrop was back once more in the town which he had helped to found and where he had also acted as governor. It was old familiar ground. and it is regrettable that the diary does not give us something of his activities during the four or five days there.
"November 23. Sunday. Wind W. The boat tried to enter the harbor but sailed in slowly. Finally it could not enter and dropped
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AN OVERLAND JOURNEY IN 1645
anchor again. After dinner, however, Elias Parkman, as captain, came with a ferry, accompanied by a merchant, John Tinker, and Mr. Williams from Windsor with some sailors, the boat having been left with three sailors, namely, Frost, Hadfre, and a boy. During the night a wind arose and a driving rain, so that there was a great storm, and as a consequence the boat, whose anchors did not hold so well (for it lost its biggest anchor a little earlier near the island called Conine- cut, alias Fishers Island) was driven to shore, but on a sandy spot, with no rocks, the captain and the others remaining at Saybrook.
"November 24. Monday. Wind W. There was a strong swell on the sea. I was so hindered because of the wind and the fall of the tide that I could not cross the river, fearing that the ferry might be driven on a sandbar.
"November 25. Wind W.S.W., blowing violently. About ten or eleven o'clock I crossed the river with the waves so high that they often came into the boat with great violence. I was afraid that the ferry would hit bottom in which case without a doubt it would sud- denly be filled with water. The water was not deep, often the oars scraped bottom and once or twice if I am not mistaken, when the waves subsided, the ferry did touch in one spot. But with God's help we reached the shore safely, where we met the captain and two others who told us about the ship. We went to see the boat which was being tossed dangerously on a rock but not [harmfully] unless a N.N.E. wind came. That night we came to an Indian fort at Niantiga [Niantic] but the Indians were all away with their homes. I fell into the stream about up to my waist."
In the days of Winthrop's visit there was a trail known as the Pequot Path which followed along the shore of the Sound, and it was over this that Winthrop traveled.
"November 26. Wednesday. A little after daybreak journeying near Nameag we found some little Indian houses and one of the Indians guided us to Nameag. All that day we crossed overland look- ing for a suitable spot for a colony. The night was very cold."
The phrase "looking for a suitable place for a colony" seems to disprove the conjecture commonly made in histories of New London that its settlement was begun in the summer of 1645. Clearly, the chief sponsor of the colony was looking for a suitable location in late November of that year.
"November 27. Wind N.W. About ten o'clock leaving Mr. Petro and the rest behind, I crossed in a canoe with one man Jo. R. and an Indian [who was] guiding us, by the name of Sabin. A meeting having been arranged with Robin who had served before, I crossed the river and the stream Poquanuc, where Robin told me there was fruit-bearing land without rocks, arable with a goodly number of planting-fields. I crossed also the River Mistick, accompanied hither by Robin and his brother, who then returned to Nameag with my letter
W. Mass .- I-11
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to Mr. Pet. I stayed here about an hour, lighting a fire, eating, and writing. About evening we neared the river Pacatuck, but as the usual place [for crossing] was frozen and yet not everywhere solid enough, I could not cross on foot or by canoe, the part being frozen where the canoe usually could cross. But, by the providence of God, there was an Indian on the other side and he pointed out for us a place about a half mile below where we crossed on the ice safely, while some. Indians watched us crossing. As darkness came we entered the house of an Indian, Cutshamekin, a relative of Robin, [later] being taken to the house of George, whose wife was formerly a woman of Momo- nottuck. We slept in comfort."
Apparently satisfied with his careful survey of the site for his colony, to which he came with his family and his brother Deane ill the following October, Winthrop said goodby to his friends and departed for home. "Mr. Petro," whom he mentions, was Thomas Peter, brother of Hugh, and an ejected Puritan clergyman formerly of Cornwall, England. He had been chaplain at the fort in Saybrook and now was a staunch supporter of the new settlement idea. "Jo.R." was probably Jonathan Rudd of Saybrook, who was later married by Winthrop at Bride Brook. Robin, the Indian, Cassasinamon, the chief of the remnant of Pequots known as Nameaugs, who lived on the site of present New London. Cassasinamon was a special friend of the English, and it is evident that Winthrop had arranged for him to act as a sort of guide. Cutshamekin, who is said to have been a former Massachusetts sachem, friendly to the English, had served as an interpreter during the Pequot troubles in 1636. He must have been related to Robin Cassasinamon only by marriage, for Robin was a Pequot.
"November 28. Friday. I remained at George's house, because nearly all day there was rain, hail, and much snow. About three o'clock it got calm, etc.
"November 29. Saturday. Fair weather, the wind Northerly & a little Ely towards night. We lodged at Notoriope his wigwa, neere [blank] the great pond, the water runs thence into Pacatucke. We . were come about 20 miles from Mimbago where we ly. Saw Wequash- cooke only as we passed by his house."
The wigwam of the unidentified Indian called Notoriope was near the pond now known as Worden's. Mr. William Davis Miller, who was of the greatest assistance in following Winthrop's route through Rhode Island, in his The Ancient Paths to Pequot, places its site southwest of the center of the pond, a mile or so away, on a sandy plain. Many relics have been found thereabouts. Wequashcooke; also known as Cashawasset and as Harman Garrett, was a Pequot, the chief of another small remnant of the old tribe not absorbed by the Mohegans. He and his followers frequently lived near Pawcatuck (Westerly, Rhode Island), and his house was there, a bit northerly of the present Westerly bridge.
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AN OVERLAND JOURNEY IN 1645
"November 30. We came to the trading-houses at Cacosqusset, Mr. Wilkox house, where were 2 English yt traded for ye Duch Gov, John Piggest & John Mr. Williams ma. I stepped over a trap just in ye path right at Pesicus fort, & saw it not before I was over it, my ma calling to me of it as I stepped over it. George ye Indian was over it before me &c."
Balanced Rock, Lanesborough
Beyond Notoriope's wigwam the Pequot path rounded the south shore of the pond and swung northeastward towards higher ground. As Wait Winthrop, son of John, Jr., described the route many years later, at a point now known as Curtis Corners it turned northwestward and went down the hill to the south end of the Great Plain. Pessacus' fort was probably on this plain a bit northeasterly of Larkin's Pond and on the east side of the Chipuxet River. Winthrop's route was in a northeasterly direction over the Great Plain, and it took him finally to the trading post at Cocumscussuc, just north of present Wickford, Rhode Island. This was an early trading station and at the time of Winthrop's visit was owned by Roger Williams and a John or Edward Wilcox, who sold his interest to Williams the following year.
"Dec. 1. I came to Tossaconawayes wigwam. I hired a guide to Providence for 2s 6d, who carried or things also. Lodged by the way at Patuxet, at old William Arnolds house, it being a very wett evening
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& al through that night a great storme & raine; the snow was quite gone before morning. This is counted 15 miles from ye trading house. "Dec. 2. I came to Providence. Lodged at Benedict Arnolds house, being but 5 miles from Patuxet. Mr. Williams brother.
"Dec. 3. Wednesday. I passed in a canoe downe Providence River & so landed 2 miles below Secunke [Rehoboth]. Staied there about an houre at Walter Palmers house. Went to the Wading river & waded over & ther rested by ye rivers side. This is about 14 miles fro Secunke. Mr. Coop & Mr. Paine of Secunke came to us in ye night from ye Bayward. At moone rise they sett us wth their horses over the next river where the flood had carried away the bridges."
Winthrop wanted to see as many prominent men as he could, probably to interest them in his new colony plans and in the iron forge he was promoting. Palmer was a well-known early settler of Seekonk who later, in 1653, bought land in Connecticut and was one of the founders of Stonington. Paine, a miller by occupation, came in 1638 to Hingham, and later moved to Seekonk (Rehoboth), where he was one of the original proprietors. He always had close business connections with Boston. Thomas Cooper, who signed his name "Thomas Coop," came from England to Hingham in 1638, and removed to Seekonk in 1643.
The regular trail or road from Providence to Boston crossed the Seekonk River to the plain of the same name somewhere within the bounds of present Providence. Palmer lived at the southern end of this plain, at the southerly end of present Omega Pond, on the east side of the river which runs into it. Turning homeward, Winthrop crossed this level land and passed the location of present Attleboro; then he waded across Wading River, probably in Foxboro, not far from the present Mansfield line. The Providence-Boston route con- tinued to Dedham, then on to Boston; therefore after crossing the Wading River it necessitated a swing westward between the head- waters of that river and the Neponset. The storm had rendered traveling difficult, and Winthrop, who was still afoot, must have appreciated the lift over the swollen streams which Paine gave him.
"Dec. 4. Thursday. Waded over Naponset, the tree being carried away by the thaw flood, also another little river before. A third [I] made a bridge over, felling a small tree. Passed over Monotaquid at twilight. Came by the direction of the noise of the falls to the forge. Lodged at Facksons, Mr. Hoffes farmer."
This must also have been a difficult day for travel. It is no easy task to ford even a small stream which is so badly flooded that trees normally used for crossings have been carried away. In December, with the rivers full of ice and snow-water, it must have been a chilling task as well as a difficult one. Winthrop, in planning to visit the Forge, had evidently turned easterly, away from the regular path to Boston, which did not cross the Neponset; and it seems likely that
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he must have crossed at a place where it was comparatively narrow, for the lower Neponset is a large, wide river. His remarks and the topography of the country indicate that he crossed somewhere near the location of the present Walpole or Canton. From there, he could continue in a northeasterly direction south of the Blue Hills and eventually arrive at the Forge, which was his destination. After crossing the Neponset, he probably continued through or near Pon- kapoag, in Canton, and then kept along a trail that closely followed what is now Farm Street, and passed north of the body of water known as Great Pond into Braintree. It is difficult to tell just what Winthrop meant when he said he "passed over Monotaquid [meaning Monatiquot] at twilight," since he does not say "Monotaquid River" and there were several nearby points to which the word "Monatiquot" was applied. The Indian word may mean something like "a place for seeing far off" or "place of observation", and thus may refer to some hill or observation point in or near the Blue Hills.
The Forge, as we have noted, had been started the year before, and Winthrop had invested much money in the undertaking. It was located in Braintree below Morrison's Pond, which may have been the original forge pond. It was in the triangle formed by the river, Elm Street, Adams Street, and Middle Street, on the north side of the river.
Goodman Faxon, the man with whom Winthrop lodged, was Thomas Faxon, and at that time was apparently employed by Atherton Hough (Winthrop's "Mr. Hoffe") of Boston, a wealthy man and landowner. Later Faxon purchased a great deal of the land from Hough. Faxon, an able man, was interested in colonizing work too, and later was surveyor in the Block Island settlement. His house was situated on what is now Dickerman Lane in Braintree, and the cellar-hole may still be seen there. It was less than a mile from the Forge, and it must have been gratifying to Winthrop to be snug and dry again after his hard trip.
"Dec. 5. Came to Boston & home. Deo gratias."
CHAPTER XVII The Indians of Agawam
A FTER tedious negotiations, on July 15, 1636, the graphic symbols of the Indian owners were appended to a formal deed conveying to the three original promoters, the lands required for the plantation that became Springfield. To achieve that end it was neces- sary to yield to the natives on all disputed points, for they proved to be able and efficient traders, fully capable of protecting their own interests.
The deed itself well repays a careful study, for much of interest lies between the lines. Shorn of its archaic form and spelling, it reads as follows :
Agaam alias Agawam;
This fifteenth day of July, 1636.
It is agreed between Commucke and Matanchan, ancient Indians of Agaam, for and in the name of all the other Indians, and in par- ticular for and in the name of Cuttonus, the right owner of Agaam and Quana, and in the name of his mother Kewenusk, the tamasham or wife of Wenawis, and Niarum, the wife of Coa, to and with William Pynchon, Henry Smith and Jehu Burr, their heirs and associates for ever, to truck and sell all that ground and muckeosquittaj or meadows, accomsick, viz, on the other side of quana, and all that ground and muckeosquittaj on the side of Agaam, except cottinackeesh, or ground that is now planted, for ten fathoms of wampum, ten coats, ten hoes, ten hatchets and ten knives. And also the said ancient Indians, with the consent of Menis and Wrutherna and Napompenam do truck and sell to William Pynchon, Henry Smith and Jehu Burr and their successors forever, all that ground on the east side of Quin- nectocot river called usquaiok and navasset, reaching about four miles in length from the north end of masaksicke up to Chickuppe river for four fathoms of wampum, four coats, four hoes, four hatchets, four knives. Also, the said ancient Indians, doe with the consent of the other Indians, and in particular with the consent of Machetuhood, Wenepawin and Mohemoos, truck and sell all the ground and muckeos- quittaj and grounds adjoining called masaksicke, for four fathoms of wampum, four coats, four hatchets, four hous and four knives.
And the said Pynchon hath in hand paid the said eighteen fathoms of wampum, eighteen coats, eighteen hatchets, eighteen hoes
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and eighteen knives to the said Commucke and Matanchan and doth further condition with the said Indians that they shall have and enjoy all that cottinackeesh or ground that is now planted. And to have liberty to take fish and deer, ground nuts, walnuts, acorns and sasachi- minesh, or a kind of pease. And also if any of our cattle spoil their corn, to pay as it is worth. And that hogs shall not go on the side of Agaam, but in acorn time. Also the said Pynchon doth give to Wrutherna, two coats over and above the said particulars expressed. And in witness hereof, the two said Indians and the rest do set to their hands this present 15th day of July, 1636.
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