USA > Massachusetts > Suffolk County > Boston > Topographical and historical description of Boston > Part 7
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[The annexations to Boston have been as follows: -
South Boston
March 6, 1804
Roxbury .
.
January 6, 1868 66 3, 1870
Dorchester
.
West Roxbury
66 5, 1874
Charlestown
. 5,1874
Brighton
66 5, 1874
ยท
By chap. 220 of Acts of 1874, so much of Brookline as was north of the southerly line of Brighton avenue was annexed to Boston. This grant covers the land bounded west by St. Mary's street, southerly by Muddy river, east by a line near Charles Gate. By chap. 184 of Acts of 1875, a small portion of what had been Brighton was annexed to Newton.
W. H. W.]
CHAPTER II.
EARLY DESCRIPTIONS OF BOSTON.
Early Description by William Wood in 1634 .. . Situation of Mount Wollaston, Dorchester, and Roxbury . .. Stony River ... Boston and Boston Neck ... Captain Johnson's Description of Dorchester, Boston and Roxbury in 1654 ... John Josselyn's Account of the Town in 1675 .. . Account by a French Protestant Refugee in 1687 . . . The Town . . . Cost of Passage to America . . . Scarcity of Laborers . . . Products . . . Trade .. . Liberty ... French Families .. . Wild Beasts and Reptiles . . . Manners and Behavior of the Colonists.
BEFORE entering into a particular description of the topography of Boston, it may be well to see how it and the neighboring towns, Roxbury and Dorchester, both of which have been annexed to it, were described by some of the earliest of the New-England writers. Mr. William Wood, who was in Lynn, Boston, and perhaps in the Plymouth Colony, very early after the first settle- ment of the country, thus writes of the town in his "New Englands Prospect," which he styles "a true, lively, and experimentall description of that part of America, commonly called New England: discovering the state of that Countrie, both as it stands to our new-come English Planters; and to the old Native Inhabitants. Laying downe that which may both enrich the knowledge of the mind-travelling Reader, or benefit the future Voyager." Mr. Wood's books are what book-fanciers call in puritan quarto, and were "printed at London by Tho. Cotes, for Iohn Bellamie, and are to be sold at his
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DESCRIPTION OF BOSTON.
shop, at the three Golden Lyons in Corne-hill, neere the Royall Exchange, 1634:"
"Having described the situation of the countrey in generall, with all his commodities arising from land and Sea, it may adde to your content and satisfaction to be informed of the situation of every severall plantation, with his conveniences, commodities, and discommodities, &c. where first I will begin with the outmost plantation in the patent to the Southward, which is called Wessagu- tus, [Wessaguscus, now Weymouth] an Indian name: this as yet is but a Small Village, yet it is very pleasant, and healthfull, very good ground, and is well timbred, and hath good store of Hey ground; it hath a very spacious harbour for shipping before the towne; the salt water being navigable for Boates & Pinnaces two leagues. Here the inhabitants have good store of fish of all sorts, and Swine, having Acornes and Clamms at the time of yeare; here is likewise an Alewife river. Three miles to the North of this is Mount Walleston [ Wollaston, now Quincy ], a verry fertile soyle, and a place verry con- venient for Farmers houses, there being great store of plaine ground, without trees. This place is called Massachusets fields where the greatest Sagamore in the countrey lived before the Plague, who caused it to be cleared for himselfe. The greatest inconvenience is, that there is not very many Springs, as in other places of the countrey, yet water may bee had for digging: a second inconvenience is that Boates cannot come in at a low water, nor ships ride neare the shore. Sixe miles further to the North, lieth Dorchester; which is the greatest Towne in New England; well woodded and watered; very good arable grounds and Hay-ground, faire Corne- fields, and pleasant Gardens, with Kitchin-gardens: In
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TOPOGRAPHICAL AND HISTORICAL
this plantation is a great many Cattle, as Kine, Goats, and Swine. This plantation hath a reasonable Harbour for ships: here is no Alewife-river, which is a great inconvenience. The inhabitants of this towne, were the first that set upon the trade of fishing in the Bay, who received so much fruite of their labours, that they encour- aged others to the same undertakings. A mile from this Towne lieth Roxberry, which is faire and handsome Countrey-towne; the inhabitants of it being all very rich. This Towne lieth upon the Maine, so that it is well woodded and watered; having a cleare and fresh Brooke running through the Towne: Vp which although there come no Alewiues, yet there is great store of Smelts, and therefore it is called Smelt-brooke.
" A quarter of a mile to the North-side of the Towne, is another River called Stony-river; upon which is built a water-milne. Here is good ground for Corne, and Medow for Cattle: Vp westward from the Towne it is something rocky, whence it hath the name of Roxberry; the inhabitants have faire houses, store of Cattle, impaled Corne-fields, and fruitfull Gardens. Here is no Harbour for ships, because the Towne is seated in the bottome of a shallow Bay, which is made by the necke of land on which Boston is built; so that they can trans- port all their goods from the Ships in Boats from Boston, which is the nearest Harbour.
" Boston is two miles North-east from Roxberry: His situation is very pleasant, being a Peninsula, hem'd in on the South-side with the Bay of Roxberry, on the North- side with Charles-river, the Marshes on the backe-side. being not halfe a quarter of a mile over, so that a little fencing will secure their Cattle from the Woolues. Their greatest wants be Wood, and Medow-ground, which
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DESCRIPTION OF BOSTON.
never were in that place; being constrayned to fetch their building-timber, and fire-wood from the Ilands in Boates, and their Hay in Loyters: It being a necke and bare of wood: they are not troubled with three great annoyances, of Woolves, Rattle-snakes, and Musketoes. These that live here upon their Cattle, must be constrayned to take Farmes in the Countrey, or else they cannot subsist; the place being too small to containe many, and fittest for such as can Trade into England, for such commodities as the Countrey wants, being the chiefe place for ship- ping and merchandize.
" This necke of land is not above foure miles in com- passe, in forme almost square, having on the south-side at one corner, a great broad hill, whereon is planted a Fort, which can command any ship as shee sayles into any Harbour within the still Bay. On the North-side is another Hill, equall in bignesse, whereon stands a Winde- mill. To the North-west is a high Mountaine with three little rising Hils on the top of it, wherefore it is called the Tramount. From the top of this Mountaine a man may over-looke all the Ilands which lie before the Bay, and discry such ships as are upon the Sea-coast. This Towne although it be neither the greatest, nor the rich- est, yet it is the most noted and frequented, being the Center of the Plantations where the monthly Courts are kept. Here likewise dwells the Governour: This place hath very good land, affording rich corne-fields, and fruitefull Gardens; having likewise sweete and pleasant Springs. The inhabitants of this place for their enlarge- ment have taken to themselves Farme-houses, in a place called Muddy-river, two miles from their Towne; where is good ground, large timber, and store of Marsh land, and Meadow. In this place they keepe their Swine and
G
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TOPOGRAPHICAL AND HISTORICAL
other Cattle in the Summer, whilst the Corne is on the ground at Boston, and bring them to the Towne in Winter."
This description of Mr. Wood should forever put to an end the preposterous traditions (so called), about buildings erected all over the town, with timber cut and hewn upon the spot. If these could be believed, trees would have grown in places which in the first days of the town were nothing but salt marshes and creeks.
Capt. Edward Johnson, of Woburn, in his " Wonder Working Providence of Sions Saviour, in New Eng- land," printed at the Angel in Cornhill, 1654, thus de- scribes Boston, Dorchester and Roxbury, in giving an account of the establishment of the third, fourth, and fifth churches in the Massachusetts Colony, the first being at Salem, and the second at Charlestown.
Of the town of Dorchester, where was planted the third church of the Massachusetts Colony, he says:
"The third Church of Christ gathered under this Government was at Dorchester, a frontire Town scituated very pleasantly both for facing the Sea, and also its large extent into the main Land, well watered with two small Rivers; neere about this Towne inhabited some few ancient Traders, who were not of this select band, but came for other ends, as Morton of Merrymount, who would faine have resisted this worke, but the provident hand of Christ prevented. The forme of this Towne is almost like a Serpent turning her head to the North- ward; over against Tompsons Island, and the Castle, her body and wings being chiefly built on, are filled somewhat thick of Houses, only that one of her Wings is clipt, her Tayle being of such a large extent that shee can hardly draw it after her; Her Houses for dwelling
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DESCRIPTION OF BOSTON.
are about one hundred and forty, Orchards and Gardens full of Fruit-trees, plenty of Corne-Land, although much of it hath been long in tillage, yet hath it ordina- rily good crops, the number of Trees are neare upon 1500. Cowes, and other Cattell of that kinde about 450. Thus hath the Lord been pleased to increase his poore dispersed people, whose number in this Flock are neare about 150. their first Pastor called to feede them was the Reverend, and godly Mr. Maveruck."
The same writer describes Boston, where the fourth church was established, in the following words:
" After some little space of time the Church of Christ at Charles Town, having their Sabbath assemblies oft- enest on the South side of the River, agreed to leave the people on that side to themselves, and to provide another Pastor for Charles Towne, which accordingly they did. So that the fourth Church of Christ issued out of Charles Towne, and was seated at Boston, being the Cen- ter Towne and Metropolis of this Wildernesse worke (but you must not imagine it to be a Metropolitan Church) invironed it is with the Brinish flouds, saving one small Istmos, which gives free accesse to the Neighbour Townes; by Land on the South-side, on the North-west, and North-east, two constant Faires are kept for daily traffique thereunto, the forme of this Towne is like a heart naturally scituated for Fortifications, having two Hills on the frontice part thereof next the Sea, the one well fortified on the superfices thereof, with store of great Artillery well mounted, the other hath a very strong battery built of whole Timber, and filled with Earth, at the descent of the Hill in the extreme poynt thereof, betwixt these two strong arms lies a large Cave or Bay, on which the chiefest part of this Town is
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TOPOGRAPHICAL AND HISTORICAL
built, over-topped with a third Hill, all three like over- topping Towers keepe a constant watch to fore-see the approach of forrein dangers, being furnished with a Beacon and lowd babling Guns, to give notice by their redoubled eccho to all their Sister-townes, the chiefe Edi- fice of this City-like Towne is crowded on the Sea- bankes, and wharfed out with great industry and cost, the buildings beautifull and large, some fairly set forth with Brick, Tile, Stone and Slate, and orderly placed with comly streets, whose continuall inlargement pre- sages some sumptuous City. The wonder of this mod- erne Age, that a few yeares should bring forth such great matters by so meane a handfull, and they so far from being inriched by the spoiles of other Nations, that the states of many of them have beene spoiled by the Lordly Prelacy, whose Lands must assuredly make Restitutions. But now behold the admirable Acts of Christ, at this his peoples landing, the hideous Thickets in this place were such that Wolfes and Beares nurst up their young from the eyes of all beholders, in those very places where the streets are full of Girles and Boys, sporting up and downe, with a continued concourse of people. Good store of Shipping is here yearly built, and some very faire ones: both Tar and Mastes the Countrey affords from its own soile; also store of Victuall both for their owne and Forreiners-ships, who resort hither for that end: this Town is the very Mart of the Land, French, Portugalls and Dutch, come hither for Traffique."
Roxbury, where he classes the fifth church in the col- ony is thus described by Capt. Johnson:
" The fift Church of Christ was gathered at Roxbury, scituated between Boston and Dorchester, being well watered with coole and pleasant Springs issuing forth
45
DESCRIPTION OF BOSTON.
the Rocky-hills, and with small Freshets, watering the Vallies of this fertill Towne, whose forme is somewhat like a wedge double pointed, entering betweene the two foure named Townes [Dorchester and Boston], filled with a very laborious people, whose labours the Lord hath so blest, that in the roome of dismall Swampes and tearing Bushes, they have very goodly Fruit-trees, fruit- full Fields and Gardens, their Heard of Cowes, Oxen and other young Cattell of that kind about 350. and dwelling-houses neere upon 120. their streetes are large, and some fayre Houses, yet have they built their House for Church-assembly, destitute and unbeautified with other buildings. The Church of Christ here is in- creased to about 120. persons, their first Teaching Elder called to Office is Mr. Eliot a yong man, at his com- ming thither of a cheerfull spirit, walking unblameable, of a godly conversation, apt to teach, as by his indefati- gable paines both with his own flock, and the poore Indians doth appeare, whose Language he learned pur- posely to helpe them to the knowledge of God in Christ, frequently Preaching in their Wigwams, and Catechiz- ing their Children."
John Josselyn, gent., who visited New England about two hundred years ago, on his return to Eng- land wrote an account of his two voyages, which were published at the Green Dragon in St. Paul's church- yard, London, in 1675. He compiled largely from Johnson's description of the town, and added a few interesting particulars, from which the following is extracted: "The houses are for the most part raised on the sea-banks and wharfed out with great industry and cost, many of them standing upon piles, close together on each side of the streets as in London,
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TOPOGRAPHICAL AND HISTORICAL
and furnished with many fair shops, their materials are Brick, Stone, Lime, handsomely contrived, with three meeting Houses or Churches, and a Town-house built upon pillars where the merchants may con- fer, in the Chambers above they keep their monthly Courts. Their streets are many and large, paved with pebble stone, and the South-side adorned with Gardens and Orchards. The Town is rich and very populous, much frequented by strangers, here is the dwelling of their Governour. On the North-west and North-east two constant Faires are kept for daily Traffick there- unto. On the South there is a small but pleasant Com- mon, where the Gallants a little before Sunset walk with their Marmalet-Madams, as we do in Moorfields, &c., till the nine a clock Bell rings them home to their re- spective habitations, when presently the Constables walk their rounds to see good orders kept, and to take up loose people. Two miles from the town at a place called Muddy-River, the Inhabitants have Farms, to which be- long rich arable grounds and meadows where they keep their Cattle in the Summer, and bring them to Boston in the Winter; the Harbour before the Town is filled with Ships and other Vessels for most part of the year."
A very interesting tract in the manuscript collections of Antoine Court, preserved in the Library of Geneva, and published in a magazine in February, 1867, contains very interesting particulars relating to Boston in 1687. It was written by a French Protestant refugee, who it appears set out for America two years after the Revoca- tion of the Edict of Nantes, and arrived in Boston on the seventeenth of October of that year, for the purpose of collecting information to guide his fellow-refugees in a proposed plan of settlement in America. Mr. J. C.
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DESCRIPTION OF BOSTON.
Brevoort, of Brooklyn, caused an edition of one hun- dred and twenty-five copies of a translation by Mr. E. T. Fisher to be printed for distribution among his literary correspondents. Although the name of the author is unknown, it is evident the tract was written by an intel- ligent and observing person, a native of Languedoc. The following abstracts are given in the language of the translator. He describes the town, on his arrival, thus: " We sighted Cape Coot [Cod], which is twenty Leagues from Boston towards the South, and on the Morrow we arrived at Boston, after having fallen in with a Number of very pretty Islands that lie in Front of Boston, most of them cultivated and inhabited by Peas- ants, which form a very fine View. Boston is situated at the Head of a Bay possibly three or four Leagues in Circumference, shut in by the Islands of which I have told you. Whatever may be the Weather, Vessels lie there in Safety. The Town is built on the Slope of a lit- tle Hill, and is as large as La Rochelle. The Town and the Land outside are not more than three Miles in Cir- cuit, for it is almost an Island; it would only be necessary to cut through a Width of three hundred Paces, all Sand, which in less than twice twenty-four Hours would make Boston an Island washed on all Sides by the Sea. The Town is almost wholly built of wooden Houses; but since there have been some ravages by Fire, building of Wood is no longer allowed, so that at this present writing very handsome Houses of Brick are going up. I ought to have told you, at the Beginning of this Arti- cle, that you pay in London for Passage here twenty Crowns [2s. 6d. each], and twenty-four if you prefer to pay in Boston, so that it is better to pay here than in London; you have one Crown over, since one hundred
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TOPOGRAPHICAL AND HISTORICAL
Pounds at London, are equal to one hundred and twenty- five here, so that the twenty Crowns one must pay at London are twenty-five Crowns here, by Reason of the twenty-five per cent., and twenty-four is all one has to pay here; this Increase in the Value of Money is a great Help to the poor Refugees, should they bring any."
He describes the scarcity of laborers, and the kind that can be procured as follows:
" You can bring with you hired Help in any Voca- tion whatever; there is an absolute Need of them to till the Land. You may also own Negroes and Negresses; there is not a House in Boston, however small may be its Means, that has not one or two. There are those that have five or six, and all make a good Living. You employ Savages to work your Fields, in Consideration of one Shilling and a half a Day and Board, which is eighteen Pence; it being always understood that you must provide them with Beasts or Utensils for Labor. It is better to have hired Men to till your Land. Ne- groes cost from twenty to forty Pistoles [the Pistole was then worth about ten Francs], according as they are skilful or robust; there is no Danger that they will leave you, nor hired Help likewise, for the Moment one is missing from the Town, you have only to notify the Savages, who provided you promise them Something, and describe the Man to them, he is right soon found. But it happens rarely that they quit you, for they would know not where to go, there being few trodden Roads, and those which are trodden lead to English Towns or Villages, which, on your writing, will immediately send back your Men. There are Ship-captains who might take them off; but that is open Larceny and would be rigorously punished. Houses of Brick and Frame can be built
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DESCRIPTION OF BOSTON.
cheaply, as regards Materials, but the Labor of Work- men is very dear; a Man cannot be got to work for less than twenty-four Pence a Day and found."
Concerning the products of the country, he is some- what more careful in his remarks than previous writers, and says:
"Pasturage abounds here. You can raise every Kind of Cattle, which thrive well. An Ox costs from twelve to fifteen Crowns; a Cow, eight to ten; Horses, from ten to fifty Crowns, and in Plenty. There are even wild ones in the Woods, which are yours if you can catch them. Foals are sometimes caught. Beef costs two Pence the Pound; Mutton, two Pence; Pork from two to three Pence, according to the Season; Flour fourteen Shillings the one hundred and twelve Pound, all bolted; Fish is very cheap, and Vegetables also; Cabbage, Turnips, Onions and Carrots abound here. Moreover, there are Quantities of Nuts, Chestnuts, and Hazelnuts wild. These Nuts are small, but of wonder- ful Flavor. I have been told that there are other Sorts which we shall see in the Season. I am assured that the Woods are full of Strawberries in their Season. I have seen Quantities of wild Grapevine, and eaten Grapes of very good Flavor, kept by one of my Friends. There is no Doubt that the Vine will do very well; there is some little planted in the Country, which has grown.
" The Rivers are full of Fish, and we have so great a Quantity of Sea and River Fish that no Account is made of them. There are here Craftsmen of every kind, and particularly Carpenters for the building of Ships. The Day after my Arrival, I saw them put into the Water one of three hundred Tons, and since, they have launched two others somewhat smaller. This Town
7
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TOPOGRAPHICAL AND HISTORICAL
carries on a great Trade with the Islands of America and with Spain. They carry to the Islands Flour, Salt Beef, Salt Pork, Cod, Staves, Salt Salmon, Salt Mack- erel, Onions, and Oysters salted in Barrels, great Quan- tities of which are taken here; and for their Return they bring Sugar, Cotton Wood, Molasses, Indigo, Sago [Manihot utilissima] and Pieces of * * In the Trade with Spain, they carry only dried Fish, which is to be had here at eight to twelve Shillings the Quintal, according to Quality: the Return Cargo is in Oils, Wine and Brandy, and other Merchandise which comes by Way of London, for Nothing can be imported here, coming from a foreign Port, unless it has first been to London and paid the half Duty, after which it can be transported here, where for all Duty one-half per cent is paid for Importation, since Merchandise for Exporta- tion pays Nothing at all."
According to the testimony of this writer it appears that the same liberty was granted to travellers as now. "One can come to this Country," he says, " and return the same as in Europe. There is the greatest Liberty, and you may live without any Constraint." But it was necessary that those who desired to carry on business should be naturalized in London before coming to America.
The number of French Protestants is mentioned as very small.
"Here in Boston there are not more than twenty French Families, and they are every Day diminishing, on Account of departing for the Country to buy or hire Land and to thrive to make some Settlement. They are expected this Spring from all Quarters. Two young Men have lately arrived from Carolina, who give some
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DESCRIPTION OF BOSTON.
News of that Country; especially they say they never saw so miserable a Country, and so unhealthful a Cli- mate. They have Fevers there during the whole Year, such as that those attacked rarely recover; and if there be some who escape their Effect, they become all leather- colored, as are these two who have arrived, who are Ob- jects of Compassion."
Another interesting subject he speaks of in the fol- lowing manner: .
" As for wild Beasts, we have here plenty of Bears, and Wolves in great Number who commit Ravages among the Sheep, if good Precautions are not taken. We also have here plenty of Rattlesnakes, but they have not yet showed themselves. I have seen only some small Snakes of three Inches [around?] and long in Propor- tion; there are a great many, for they are to be seen seven or eight together. All these Animals flee from Man, and it doth not seem that they harm anybody."
Of the colonists, he speaks less flatteringly, and in a way that would leave a very unfavorable impression of their manners and behavior:
"The English," he writes, "who inhabit these Coun- tries are as elsewhere, good and bad; but one sees more of the Latter than the Former, and to state the Case to you in a few Words, there are here of all kinds, and con- sequently of every Kind of Life and Manners; not that disputing and quarreling are common with them, but they do not lead good Lives. There are those who practice no Formality of Marriage except joining Hands, and so live in Common; others who are sixty Years of Age and are not yet baptized, because they are not Mem- bers [of the Church]. It is about a Month since they baptized in our Church a Woman of forty-five and five
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