USA > Maine > York County > Ogunquit > History of Ogunquit Village, with many interesting facts of more recent interest > Part 2
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The word Natick means: "The place of our search."
Therefore, If these Indians, who were converted to the Christ- ian faith in 1646 by John Eliot, took the name of Natick as their designated name, it stands to reason that they could not have been the Indians who inhabited this part of the State of Maine. Wells was founded in 1643, and the Indians who were here in this section were, of a certainty, members of the scat- tered tribes of the Algonquians namely, the Abenakis.
ORIGIN OF THE NAME OGUNQUIT
The word Ogunquit has been given many meanings, and also a variety of spellings. The late Dr. Gagnong said: "The name comes rather close to the Micmac. POG-UM-IK- meaning la- goons formed at mouths of rivers by dune beaches driven by the wind."
Maps and Plans, Vol. XXXIV, p. 8, offers this spelling and interpretation: "Neguntequit - old abandoned fields."
Fannie Eckstorm uses the word Obumkegg ("meaning a sand bar, particularly one at the junction of a stream with a larger body of water") .
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There is no mention of the word Ogunquit in the volume, "Abenaki Indian Legends, Grammar and Place Names" by Henry Lorne Masta. Educated in Sabrevios College, St. Johns, N. B., Masta was Ex Past Head Chief of the Abenaki Indians and Chief for twenty years. The volume was printed in 1932.
Abenakis by Joseph Laurent (Sozap Lolo), Abenaki chief, which was printed in 1854, was definitely an Abenaki gram- mar, and only one word in the entire volume could be inter- preted to mean Ogunquit. This word - which means a sand bar - is O'Dawomkak.
There is no word in either Abenaki book that ends in quit, ket, or kett.
Of a certainty, the word did not come from any so-called Natick tongue.
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COURT SESSION AND ORDERS
A General Court was held at Saco for the whole province. Here the Governor himself took up residence in September of 1640. The Lygonia Patent1 was revived and Gorges' whole tract of land (which extended from the Piscataqua to the Kennebec Rivers) was reduced to a small section between the Piscataqua and the Kennebunk Rivers.
Sir Ferdinando Gorges denied the legality of such an act, and in answer to his protests, the Governor General and his commissioners decided in favor of the Honorable Alexander Rigby who now owned the Lygonia Patent. This decision stir- red the people of Wells and York, for they feared that these two plantations might fall into a state of anarchy.
A Court was called at Wells in (1644) , and in the years that followed, such courts were held alternately at Wells and at Gorgeana (York).
COURT ORDERS
At the meeting held in 1649, the following order was is- sued: "Ordered that any woman who shall abuse her husband, or any others by opprobrious languages, may be put in the stocks two hours, and if incorrigible may afterwards be whipped."
Wells was ordered in (1653) to make its first road.2 This road was definitely 'to follow the sea,' and the people were
1 The Lygonia Patent (1629) gave a rectangular-shaped piece of land from Cape Porpoise to Saco, the name being derived from the maiden name of Gorges' mother.
2 The building and location of this road is described in the King's Highway.
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further ordered to "cause a bridge to be built over the Ogun- quit River."
Province of Court Records of Maine, Vol. III (1680-1692) , p. xxxiiii - a record of the Court of Sessions held at Wells, 20th of November 1683 -: "The Court ordereth that the day of Thanksgiving formerly appointed by authority, and suspend- ed upon some Mature Consideration is now by the Court deter- mined to be kept in Yorke, Kittery, and Wells upon the first Wednesday in September next Insuing according to the form- er Order."
Court of Quarter Sessions 14th of September 1687, Wells: "We do present the Towne of Wells for Insufficiency in a Bridge called Oguncuy Bridge."
Wells was indicted in 1658 for "not having a 'couking stool.'" However, there is a record to the effect that shortly after a ducking stool was erected. The location of this means of punish- ment was at a point on the bank of the Ogunquit River near the present River Bank Road area. From the high bluff, the long pole could be deftly turned to allow the culprit to re- ceive a dip in the cold waters of the river below. The victim, tied securely in the chair or basket, which was fastened to the end of the pole, had no alternative but to receive the allotted punishment and to "go the straight and narrow path hence- forth."
In addition to being associated with Wells, Ogunquit was also closely related to York, for by the terms of a General Court held at Kittery (December 30, 1651) it was ordered that "-Thomas Wheelwright's farm and Cape Neddick are hereby joined together as a village of this Province-"
Thomas Wheelwright, son of the Reverend John Wheel- wright, owned the land between the Ogunquit and the Web- hanet (Wells) Rivers, which area constituted his farm.
The Charter of Wells (granted in 1643) was as follows: "Wells shall be a towneship by itselfe, alwayes shall be a part
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of Yorkshire, and shall enjoy protection, aequall acts of favor and justice with the rest of the people ynhabitting on the South side of the River of Piscataqua within the limitts of our juris- diction, etc, etc, -"
Unfortunately there were no legal boundaries established in the charter. Therefore, at the May term of court, in the year 1659, a decision was handed down. The reason for this decision by the General Court resulted from a quarrel over the portion of land which is known as Ogunquit, for Kittery claimed this particular portion, while Wells also wanted the same section.
By General Court order, Wells was divided from Kittery (Vol. I, folio 81. Date: March 17, 1658) . This decision gave the commissioners, who had been appointed the year before, the right "to pitch and lay out the dividing line between the towns of York and Wells, from a marked tree, formerly mark- ed by mutual consent of both towns."
According to the power given to these commissioners, they set upon the following as true boundaries:
BOUNDARIES OF WELLS
May 1658-9. At the head of York, where Kittery joins Wells "-starting from a marked tree the course shall run a straight line into the S W side of certain marshes, called Totnick Marshes, directly against a certain rock1 on the N E side of said marshes, dividing the towns of York and Wells."
May 10, 1660. Boundaries between Cape Porpoise and Wells decided. "We- do mutally agree that the river Kennebunk shall be the bounds of Cape Porpoise and Wells, to the ut- most extent of both the towns, being eight miles up into the country."
(signed) Edmund Littlefield and four others.
1 White flint on the coast just beyond the Pickering cottage.
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INDIAN RAIDS
T. HE trail of the Indian lay along the sea. This section of the town-Ogunquit-and Wells proper seemed to be included in the spots where the frenzied redmen wreaked their vengeance. The first record of an Indian attack in this area was in 1676, when a surprise attack was sprung upon Cape Neddick. From here, the Indians traveled to Wells where several white people were killed and their cabins were burned.
From 1676 until a treaty was made in April of 1678, the villagers never knew a safe moment. Protection of some sort was necessary and the Storer's Garrison built in 1676 at what was termed "the town's end" provided a refuge for all who fled from the savage encounters. Adjoining villages also erected garrisons.
These strongholds were built by men experienced in the crafty ways of the Indians, and they were well-stocked with food, water and ammunition.
The roving redmen found much unsettled territory in the Ogunquit area, and here they concealed themselves for the purpose of attacking people who passed through the vicinity en route from Wells to York. Indians separated many a colonial family, either by murder, or by capture - often taking their prisoners into Canada. Once in Canada, some of the prisoners they held for ransom, while others were never heard from.
In the "History of Scarboro" there appears the following item: "-that without fail, once an Indian raid has been ac- complished here, the redmen started for Wells-"
For some unknown reason Wells seemed to be the vantage
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PHOTO BY HUSSEY
Marker, showing site of Storer's Garrison (Wells)
spot, and the Indians attacked there with great vengeance and bitter hatred. Once in a while it was possible to dispatch a runner to warn the settlers of attacks and of the probable approach of the redskins. When these dread messages were re- ceived, families immediately flocked to Storer's Garrison. How- ever, there were many times when no warnings were received, and, when attack came, each family fought for itself. The In- dians had a trick of dividing their numbers into several parties, concealing themselves in the thick woods, and suddenly pounc- ing upon their helpless victims-either killing or capturing them.
Many records have been made and handed down of the numerous attacks upon Ogunquit and nearby places. These records include the names of several families who suffered at the hands of the enemy.
Only a few years ago a skull was unearthed from its grave on the northern bank of the small stream that runs parallel to Beach Street and into the Ogunquit River. This skull was of such a shape as to be identified as that of an Indian. With all reverence, it was returned to the earth from whence it came. Of a certainty, the spot was not an Indian burying ground, and no doubt one lone Indian had fallen in a raid, and had been buried by some humane person. If this were really the skull of an Indian, then for this one life, how many white ones had been offered?
The Treaty of 1678 gave the settlers new hope. Families whose elders had either been killed or carried away were put with those who lost their little ones. Thus, fatherless and per- haps motherless children were adopted by those who were child- less, and their life was begun anew. Cabins were rebuilt, stray cattle rounded up, and for a time peace reigned. However, this was only for a short time, for a few years later word came that the savages were again on the war path.
The years of 1691 and 1692 brought repeated raids on Wells, and of course Ogunquit. The year 1724, will be remembered
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as one of excitement and terror. This year saw white people murdered day after day, until December of 1725 when the Lovewell War ended the Indian raids for a time. When Quebec fell in 1759, the Indian wars ended.
In reading tales of these raids and of the horrible sufferings, one wonders that the surviving settlers did not lose faith and courage entirely and return to England from whence they had come. However, in the peaceful days that followed the end of these outrages, the settlers took heart and cabins were rebuilt. The wheels of prosperity began to turn once more and all sor- rows were buried with the Indian tomahawk.
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MOUNT AGAMENTICUS
(Sometimes spelled Accomenticus, Meaning in Indian tongue: "the other side of the river.")
N travelling along highway Route 1, coming from York to- ward Ogunquit, the eyes of the traveler are drawn toward a high elevation of land looming above the pine trees. As one advances, this high land takes on three definite and distinct shapes "Three Hills." This is the old name for Mt. Agamenti- cus, the highest point of land on the Maine coast.
Looking toward this elevation, one can count from left to right: First Hill, Second Hill, Third Hill. These elevations measure 692 feet, 540 feet and 460 feet respectively. They form a veritable land of romance, where many moons ago the In- dians gathered in the evening shadows to organize their war- rior bands, and to sally forth on varied paths. Here, too, amidst the shadows of its tall pines, the Indian lover wooed his dusky mate.
Mt. Agamenticus was the Indian Mecca, and on the highest point of land, on the Second Hill, Saint Aspinquid - chief of the Pawtucket tribe of Indians - was laid to rest. His grave was marked by a gigantic boulder which was placed in an upright position on the very crest of the hill. For many years this spot was visited by hundreds of people who came to this area, and it was with regret that those who loved the spot saw it leveled in the years preceding World War II, in order to make pos- sible the structures important and essential for the defense of a country soon to be at war.
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Third Hill has a wonderfully mysterious cave, hidden from the eye of the casual observer. There are many bubbling springs to be found upon those "Hills" - springs that apparently come up from solid rock. Springs that are lined with cool, green mosses, flanked by delicate ferns and sturdy brakes, springs that tumble joyously, recklessly down over the hillsides.
As one watches these majestic hills, perhaps at the setting of the sun, one's mind might ponder over many things. The dimming light plays havoc with the imagination, and one might almost see the blanketed figure of a tall, Indian chief among the trees. And perhaps one wonders of other mysteries, legends, romances, which might revolve around these rugged bulwarks - these serene mountains with the glory of the sea almost massed against their feet.
What secrets do these stern rocks hold? Who knows? A silence - deep and pathetic - casts a spell over all. Twilight ends. The Hills grow dim - are lost to view. One bright star shines over all. Night has descended. Memory lingers.
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SAINT ASPINQUID
(Chief of the Pawtucket Tribe of Indians)
F ROM the many accounts which have come to people of St. Aspinquid, a devoted and wily old sachem of the 16th and 17th centuries, it is difficult to determine whether he was a sorcerer or an apostle. He was looked upon as a hero, from the viewpoint of the Indian, and the possessor of a wisdom far- exceeding the wisdom of any ordinary man.
His faithful followers believed, and deeply, too, that St. Aspin- quid had the power of magic. That he could restore to life a leaf that was withered and dead; that he could raise a live serpent from a dried serpent's skin; that he could change his own form into a flame of fire.
In his later years of life St. Aspinquid was converted by John Eliot. He had come under the spell of Eliot's brilliant words, as that good man preached the Gospel, and was baptised to be- come a devout follower of Christ. (About 1630) .
St. Aspinquid then began his travels, far and wide, to con- vert the Indians to the Christian faith. He spent years among the vast number of tribes between his home in Rhode Island and the Great Lakes. He told to his many brothers the story of a sure course to the Happy Hunting Ground and to the Land of the Great Spirit beyond the River.
After many years of this work, St. Aspinquid felt the urge to return to his most beloved spot, Mt. Agamenticus (York). An honored counsellor he was enshrined in the hearts of his people,
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and at his death sachems from fourteen tribes attended his last rites. Never before had there been such splendor displayed at an Indian burial, as St. Aspinquid was laid to rest on the summit of his cherished mountain in 1682.
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PHOTO BY HOWARD
Jeffard's Tavern as it looked in Wells (a popular stage- coach inn recently moved to York Corner) .
THE KING'S HIGHWAY
W HEN the inhabitants of Wells had been brought under the jurisdiction of Massachusetts, the Court deemed it wise to im- prove the traveling conditions of the town. Travel was very slow because of the condition and uncertainty of the trails over which the people passed. The distance between Cape Porpoise (Now Kennebunk) and York was covered in about two or three days, depending upon the tides, along the beachlands the best "highways" of the times. Difficulties were greatest when there was no beachland, and the traveler had to make his way through the dense forests.
Wells and the nearby towns were ordered "to make sufficient highways in their town from house to house, cleare and fitt for foot and cart, before the next Court of County, under the penal- ty of ten pounds for every town defect in this particular, and that they lay out a sufficient highway for horse and foot between towne and towne within that time."1
Wells received the first order to build its "road by the sea" in 1653. Evidently this order was carried out, at least to some ex- tent, but possibly the townfolk were not so skilled at road build- ing, or perhaps work was interrupted, for there is a record some five years later of an order "to improve the road started and also to build a bridge over the Ogunquit River."
Apparently the townspeople were backward in complying with this request for there is a record where Wells was indicted for this neglect in 1658.
The year of 1664 brought a keen desire to improve the travel- 1 Bourne's History of Wells and Kennebunk.
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ing conditions, for the people were sensing the need of easier and better ways for intercommunication. At this time much interest was shown in the roads and the so-called King's Road was built from the Ogunquit River section through Wells to the Cole's Corner section.
In the year of 1719, a jury of twelve men, by order of the General Sessions of the Peace, laid out a highway from the Cape Neddick River (York) to the Saco Falls, as follows: "-gone the way to Wells as the road now goes till it comes near to Jacob Perkins', thence to cum out upon the left hand as the trees are marked, till it comes to Josiah's river above the first falls, thence through the town of Wells as the road now goes to the corner of Nathaniel Clark's cornfield upon the left hand, and from the said corner between Clark and Cole's land till we come opposite against the head of Cousen's land, to said Cou- sen's land, and from thence between Cousen's and Cole's as the line runs till we come to the Little river where the old way formerly was; from thence keeping the old way till we come to Mousam river, and from Mousam river as the road now goes to Kennebunk river to the usual wading place below the mill, thence keeping the old road to Saco lower falls below the old fort, which we have viewed and laid out to the best of our judgment."1
To place the King's Highway in this section is not too dif- ficult. It has been described as coming directly from Portsmouth, N. H. to the Charles' Weare farm on Route 1, a mile below Ogunquit Village, where it passed back of this farm to the Pine Hill section.
This is where the area around Josiah's River comes in. The road passed through Ogunquit Village going directly in front of the present-day Maxwell House. A portion of this was the original Stagecoach Inn that was built in 1765, and is described more fully in a later chapter of this book.
1 Bourne's History.
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PHOTO BY HOWARD
Stone marker on the old King's Highway. George Dixon, son of Mrs. Hazel Dixon Margeson of Moody shown point- ing at marker.
Just outside the village the roadway turned to pass in front of the Leslie Brook's residence, but on a parallel with Route 1 for a short distance, until it crossed the Captain Thomas pro- perty, the Tibetts' place, and came out by the Hartley Hilton farm at Moody, thence to Wells Corner, and on-
Today, a marker is still standing which shows where a por- tion of the old King's Highway actually went. This marker is approximately two feet high and a trifle wider. It is grayed with age and partly concealed by woodsy growth, but the inscrip- tion is clearly cut and reads:
B 89
1769
"The interpretation being: "Boston 89 miles away, and the year 1769."
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THE OLDEST HOUSE IN OGUNQUIT AND OTHERS
T HE Maxwell House on the King's Highway was built in 1765 in the center (today's center) of Ogunquit Village. This was a much-needed place. Weary travelers from Portland to Boston, or vice versa, welcomed the accommodations provided by such a house.
The Maxwell House was erected by Barak Maxwell and was a most popular place. Many a stagecoach has driven sweat- streaked horses up to its door. Here the horses and driver, as well as the passengers, might rest for the night and partake of the fine hospitality offered by the inn's host.
And fine hospitality it was, to be sure. Good meals were served piping hot, along with pewter mugs of good Jamaica rum. Later guests were ushered to rooms where they could be lulled to sleep on sweet-smelling husk beds, by the rhythmic rote of the sea.
Ofttimes fresh horses were put into place and the stagecoach resumed its journey over the King's Highway. The route was the same - through Portsmouth, N. H., along the Lafayette Road of today, and thence to Boston, possibly stopping at the popular British Coffee House.
Today, the Maxwell House keeps the same name, and the present-day structure is built on the site of the original inn. When walking down the corridors of the second floor can be noted a decided slope where the new part has been added to the old.
To have the oldest house in Ogunquit Village still standing, is definitely an interesting item. This house was built upon a
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PHOTO BY HIPPLE
Oldest house in Ogunquit as it looks today
knoll1 which is on the left-hand side of the Shore Road where the Oarweed Road comes into it. After several generations had occupied the house, it was sold and moved to its present-day location on the right-hand side of the Cove Road and nearer to the Cove itself.
The new owner made improvements and many people pass it by without knowing of its historical background. Most of the people speak of it as the "Vedder" house, and a nephew is the owner at the present time.
This lovely old reminder of early Ogunquit might well bear a small marker of distinction.
Two other old houses are the home of the Misses Thompson, built in 1714, which is at the top of Thompson's Hill on the Shore Road toward the Cove section, and the home of C. Her- bert Littlefield on Scotch Hill, built in 1720.
Other old houses may be seen in various places in the village. These old homes are in excellent condition and are occupied by the descendents of the early builders.
1 Where the small cottage of "Hillary" is today.
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EARLY CHURCHES
T HE First Congregational Church was built for the people of Wells in 1641 by the Reverend John Wheelwright. This church, erected in the wilderness, left no permanent records of its early life, but there are a few scattered reminders, such as letters written by Wheelwright and others, which leave the impression that this church was of a log cabin type. One record does show that it was destroyed by the Indians about the year 1692.
Undaunted, the people began another structure, but did not actually complete it, and for some time the people of Wells and Ogunquit areas attended church in this second place of wor- ship that had no doors or windows to enclose the open spaces in the walls. However, as soon as the fear of raids from the Indians subsided and better times were established, the in- completed structure was torn down and another church was built in its place.
Today, the First Congregational Church of Wells stands apart as the second oldest church in Maine. It is a beautiful white wooden building surrounded by smooth, green lawns. It is a church echoing with peace and happiness - the same peace and happiness that its founder endeavored to bring to the people of the community when he had settled them there after leav- ing Exeter, N. H.
With the changing of the times a different idea of worship had come into the minds of a few of the Ogunquit Villagers. There also came an urge to change to a church of their own beliefs, and to have this church in Ogunquit, for the journey to
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The old Perkins Place where first Baptist Church was organized
Wells First Congregational Church was not easy.
In response to the need, a group of serious-minded folk gathered at the home of one Moses Perkins1 for the purpose of worship. Elder Payne was their first preacher. This group, small as it was, with but fourteen ladies and seven gentlemen, was a purposeful little band, and soon regular church services were being held in Moses Perkins' parlor. Moses Perkins and Israel2 Littlefield served as deacons. The date of August 16, 1830, has been established, and the following elders made up the organiz- ing group: Mark Fernald, Peter Young, and Jedediah Goodwin.
The next year a church was built on the southerly corner of the present-day Ledge Road, and here the people continued their worship until 1857 when the site of the church was moved about one-half mile toward the center of the village to its present location. Twelve years later, approximately 1869, the Parson- age was built.
Today the Baptist Church stands as a sturdy promise of "Peace on Earth, Good Will toward Men."
The first meeting of the Ogunquit people who wished to begin a Methodist Church was held in a hall over a small store. This hall was accepted as a place for worship, until under the pas- torate of C. S. Pillsbury a regular church was built.
The Kennebunkport Methodist Church choir took charge of the music at the dedication services, and the sermon at that particular time was preached by Bishop Haven. A list of the first Methodist members has been found, and the following are the names: Charles Perkins and wife, Lincoln Littlefield and wife, Theodore Hutchins and family, Samuel Parsons and wife, Calvin Winn, Haven Winn, Barak A. Maxwell, Hiram Little- field and wife, Pamelia Perkins, Annie Perkins and Mettie Marsh.
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