USA > Maine > York County > Ogunquit > History of Ogunquit Village, with many interesting facts of more recent interest > Part 3
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1 Today this comprises the first story of the Mrs. Elsie Perkins Little- field (Mrs. Archer E.) home on Shore Road, known as "The Old Perkins Place."
2 For whom Israel's Head was named.
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1
SCHOOLS AND A POST OFFICE
Q UEEN Anne's War had ceased and with its ending the in- habitants of the town of Wells were becoming more calm. But this calmness was soon to be disturbed, and for another very different reason: The town was indicted for not having any school. This was the year of 1716. Springing into action once more, and this time not for Indian raids, Wells had its first school the year following.
The first quarter of the school year was held in Colonel John Wheelwright's home at Wells, and the second quarter in Daniel Littlefield's home at Ogunquit. A Richard Martin, son of a former minister, was chosen to be the teacher, and he was paid the sum of thirty pounds, which everyone considered to be "a goodly wage."
This arrangement went on for about seven years until it was voted "that the town get an able teacher to teach Reading, Writing, and Arithmetic, and to hold the school for a period of six months." The division of the sessions was as follows: three months at Ogunquit and three months at Cole's Corner (Wells) . Richard Dean was chosen as the teacher. Later in 1730, Ogunquit built its first school.
There remains to be found a true record as to when and by what means the first regular mail was brought to Ogunquit and Wells. Tradition has it that mail was brought into the town by a dog, and this method of mail carrying was used for about seven years until the dog was found lying dead with an Indian arrow through its body (prior to 1760).
From the period of 1775 to 1787, mail was brought into the
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town by a carrier on horseback. Later mail came by stagecoach.
The first actual post office was established in Ogunquit in 1879, and was in a part of the grocery store where the Maxwell Store is situated at the present time.
1485686
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EARLY OCCUPATIONS
IN addition to the general routine work such as farming, fishing, building of homes and their furnishings, there were several est- ablished occupations of the people of Wells and Ogunquit. Trap- ping played an important part, and the returns from it were abundant and profitable. The most important and profitable pelts were those of beaver that inhabited the many rivers, ponds and smaller streams.
Edmund Littlefield built a sawmill in the year 1641, at the falls of the Webhannet River. Several men followed his example, and soon there was a thriving business in both the cutting of lumber and the sawing of it into smaller board lengths.
No early records of shipbuilding are established, but a few dates are authentic. Some time around 1728, shipbuilding was carried on in the yards at Wells, and several coasters were built. One Pelatiah Littlefield built several sloops - the last one named Triton. These sloops were used for the Boston and Virginia trades.
In 1767, Pelatiah and Jonathan Littlefield built the schoon- er Prosperous, the largest boat ever launched in Wells, her ton- nage being eighty-eight tons.
Ogunquit was busy getting out lumber for the different parts of the boats. Stout oaks were cut for the hulls. Tall pines were used for the masts, and rock maples for the keels. Wooden casks were made during the long winter evenings, also ropes and nets.
John Bourne1 was the first master-builder and contractor of 1 Bourne's History.
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Wells, and he was assisted by his son, Benjamin, and John Butland.
Some of these early-built vessels loaded with cattle went to Canada, via the St. Lawrence to Montreal. Others sailed between this section and Boston. After the Revolutionary War, lighter craft were built for the West Indian trade.
"In 1879 the wharves of Ogunquit were piled high with wood. Schooners as the "Lillie," "Ocean Eagle," and the "General Grant" made regular trips to and from Boston, Massachusetts. Also there was a fishing schooner The Sachem that was to revolu- tionize the whaling business."2
In 1718, an effort was made to manufacture tar. The woods afforded natural material, and rosin and tar had been manu- factured in earlier years. This had had to cease on account of the many Indian attacks. When the work was reestablished, an agreement was entered into whereby all work should be done on the land, and the town of Wells was to pay approxi- mately eighteen pence per barrel.
Agriculture was always carried on, and many a bushel of fine potatoes, corn and dried beans were shipped away.
Flax was also grown in certain spots, and charcoal was made and sold for three to five cents per bushel.
Iron was found at Maryland Ridge, Wells, and on the western side of the road between Wells and Kennebunk. In 1774, an iron factory was erected on the Mousam River, and the iron was there made into bars weighing twenty-five pounds. These bars sold a about five or six cents per pound, the owners of the iron receiving approximately two to four dollars per ton.
Salt was also made from the sea water, and the following note appears in Baxter's History of Maine: "Then Solomon Littlefield of Wells in said County Personally appearing Solem- ly made oath that he had Manufactured in Wells afore sd Ninety Bushells of Salt out of Sea water in and between July 2 Quoting the late Wilbur F. Cousens.
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and Decemr 1777, and sold the same at Two dollars a Bush1 agreeable to the Acts of this State for which he has recd no bounty before me.
Dan1 Moulton Jus Peace
In Council Sepr 7, 1778 Read & Allowed Ordered That a Warrant be drawn on the Treasury for £ 13 10/ in full dis- charge of the above Bounty.
Juº Avery Dy Secy"
This occupation was carried on in both Ogunquit and Wells for some time.
Several records of wills show that Negro slaves were left to various members of the deceased's family. On the whole, these negroes were treated kindly by their masters, and church pri- vileges were given them.
The negro slaves were brought into Wells (and nearby York) in small vessels from the West Indies.
In Wells there is a home that boasts of a small, hidden stair- case. The purpose of this secret place is not exactly known, but there are two reasons given: one that it was to hide slaves from officials - the slaves having been smuggled in under cover of darkness, - the other that is was used to hide run-away slaves.
The staircase could have been used for both as the house was built in the very early part of the 1700's and this secret place could have been the idea of someone who desired to sheer away from legal duties.
The work of the women should not be omitted, for these energetic folk worked at various occupations, such as the spin- ning of the yarn and flax, after both had been made ready; the making of many, many candles from the fragrant little gray bayberries found so plentifully along the rocky ledges. Clothes for the entire family were made from the homespun materials, and yarn was knitted into caps, mufflers, socks and mittens. Patch-work quilts were made from the bright calicos
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brought in by the merchant vessels. Foods of all sorts were prepared for winter use by the processes of smoking, drying, or laying away in salty brine. Many of these strong ladies worked in the fields with their husbands, or milked the cows in the pastures, and made butter and cheese from the milk.
Last, but not least, each housewife was well-versed in the art of preparing the various parts of plants for medicinal pur- poses, and each one kept a fair supply in case of need.
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HOMES, FURNISHINGS AND COSTUMES
IT goes without saying that the first houses were cut from the trees of the forests and were put together with the logs inter- locking at the corners. We read of the clay or moss or clod "stuffing" which were used to fill any place where the logs did not meet. In all probability these devices were used, and the general idea of pounded earth floors prevailed.
In imagination we can see these small abodes, cold at times, with crude furniture, beds fashioned of rough sticks, husk matresses and coverlets of homespun, and quilts of calicos or the skins of animals, - dishes of hollowed chunks of wood, and buckets of leather.
In old diaries we read of mattresses made from the plentiful milkweed floss, and mention of iron pots or kettles. Knives and forks were not to be had during the early years, and perhaps the oldtime saying "fingers before forks" may have started at this point in history.
Pitchpine furnished lights, and these were supplemented with candles made from the grease of animals and from the fragrant wax of the bayberries which grew among rocky ledges on the edge of the sea.
Today some of the first frame houses are still standing, and these boast real chairs, tables, dressers, chests, and beds that were brought in by some trading vessel. In addition to the furniture, there are some very fine pieces of silver, thin glass- ware, pewter and copperware, great fireplaces and brick ovens.
Some of these houses still have the Indian shutters, and panes
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of handblown glass, which may be recognized by their uneven lines and odd little air bubbles, and by their faintly bluish- color, instead of the clear crystal of modern glass.
These homes were built with the thought of endurance foremost in mind - to withstand the brunt of the "nor'easters," the intense heat of the summers and the driving rains of the springs. They were built with the idea that each one might pass from father to son for many generations, and each one that stands today is worthy of admiration.
What a pity some of these ancient landmarks were allowed to wither and decay, as their newest owner hied himself to the beckoning city, while years later, some descendant would have given his "eyeteeth" to possess such a home.
The costumes of the early settlers differed somewhat in style and in texture. Coming from England, the customary light- colored coat, ornamented with large, fancy buttons, was worn by gentlemen of note. The vests or waistcoats were of great beauty, and were usually of white satin made very ornate with designs embroidered upon them. Velvet breeches were worn in the early Colonial period, and the hose were long and of fine silk. Shoes were of leather and had silver buckles to complete a most fashionable outfit. The settlers of the poorer class had to be content with heavy, woolen hose, handspun clothes, and even suits of deerhide. From the Indians they copied the soft leather moccasins. Skins from the smaller animals served for clothes, and we read of dresses being cut down to meet the needs of the younger girls, while the boys wore clothes like those of their elders.
The women of the richer class had exquisite gowns of velvets and silks brought from the foreign ports by the sailing vessels, and bolts of fine linens were purchased to be made into necker- chiefs and fine ruffles.
The women of the poorer class made their own cloth, and the spinning wheel was hardly ever silent in the home of the
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New Englander. Today, some of these spinning wheels are with us - those that were spared from destruction by the Indian raids. In many a home in Ogunquit there may be seen one of these relics that helped to clothe our ancestors.
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WILD LIFE
A NOTHER enemy of the early settlers, and one almost as dreaded as the Indian, was the wolf. This rapacious animal lurked in the wooded areas, and quite large packs of them ran boldly through the marshlands.
The General Court ordered every family to "pay twelve shillings" for every wolf that should be killed. So bold were these animals (commonly called "varmints") that a man who was out in the woods chopping trees was killed by a wolf-pack - even before he could defend himself.
Bears were common, and they were often seen prowling around in the cornfields - breaking off ears of the succulent grain and piling them in heaps for future consumption. It was a day of rejoicing when one of these heavy mammals was killed, for it meant plenty of meat, grease for candles, and a pelt which could be used either for a warm blanket, or a curtain at the door to shut out the cold drafts.
Graceful deer bounded through the woodlands and across the marshlands, and often stopped to feed in some beechnut grove. Lucky was the hunter who brought home one of these fleet-footed animals - for this spelled a suit of clothes, com- plete even to foot gear. It meant strong sinews for threads, fat for candles, and plenty of rich meat for smoking and drying, and for good, nourishing stews.
Occasionally moose stalked through this section of the woods, and fat beavers splashed in the streams, or busily cut down birch and aspen trees to build their dams.
Pigeons haunted the place in search of whortleberries.1 As
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these wild birds were found in great numbers on the marshes where they congregated for salt, the results were gratifying to the hunters.
When the migration of the pigeons took place, men and boys turned out in great numbers to bag these fat birds. They also went after fat, little sandbirds - what these actually were is not well-known, but it is thought that perhaps they were the plover. At any rate, these sandbirds flocked in such numbers that one man who happened to be alone on a nearby beach found that he could not carry home the number he had killed, so he promptly removed his trousers, tied the open ends of the legs, and literally "stuffed" them with the birds.
Plump partridges, rabbits, and squirrels often graced the tables, as well as the wild duck which frequented the rivers and small ponds.
Often, after the danger of the lurking Indians was over, the menfolk journeyed to the Mousam River (Kennebunk way) for the delicious salmon which abounded there, and all of the smaller streams contained speckled trout, slender, pointed-head pickerel, both red and yellow perch, while the tidal rivers had their share of sweet shad. There was also an abundance of flat- fish (the flounder), many varieties of shellfish, clams, mussels, quohaugs, and large sea clams, commonly known as "hen clams."
1 A black, shiny sweet berry which grows on high bushes. Today it is more frequently known as the "huckleberry."
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PHOTO BY HIPPLE
Miss Constance Talpey unveiling Marginal Way marker, assisted by Florence
Talpey Williams (Mrs. Ben Ames) and F. Raymond Brewster.
THE MARGINAL WAY
ALON LONG the shoreline of Ogunquit Village is a beautiful eleva- tion of land, which continues from the southeast portion of the village, following the shoreline, and ending at Perkins Cove. This elevation bears the name of Israel's Head, and more familiar names are included in it, such as: Ontio Hill, Frazier Pasture, Cherry Lane, Stearns Road, Ledge Road.
The most beautiful, and by far the most interesting and un- usual section is the extensive borderline. From its location - on the very margin of the sparkling Atlantic - comes its name, Marginal Way.
This Marginal Way begins on the Shore Road by the Ogun- quit Cemetery at the foot of Ontio Hill, and follows the wind- ing shoreline until it reaches Perkins Cove. Very few people actually know that this Marginal Way was a gift to the Ogunquit Village Corporation by its owner, Josiah Chase1 of York. This splendid gift from Mr. Chase was made possible because of a life-long friendship with former Post Master F. Raymond Brew- ster, who was one of the Ogunquit Village Corporation over- seers at the time (1925) .
The following is a true copy of the deed given to the Village of Ogunquit by the late Josiah Chase:
"Know all Men by these Presents,
That I, Josiah Chase of York in the county of York & State of Maine -in consideration of one dollar and other valuable considerations, 1 Mr. Chase died before the Marginal Way was dedicated in 1947, but his two daughters, Mrs. Florence Talpey Williams (Mrs. Ben Ames) and Constance Talpey assisted in the dedication and unveiling of the bronze marker which is placed at the foot of Ontio Hill on the Marginal Way (ocean side).
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paid by the Ogunquit Village Corporation in the town of Wells and said County of York and State of Maine-the receipt whereof I do hereby acknowledge, do hereby remise, release, bargain, sell, and convey all former quit claims unto the said Ogunquit Village Corpora- tion, and its assigns forever, all my right, title and interest in and to a certain strip of land in said Ogunquit Village Corporation known as the 'Marginal Way', and as said 'Marginal Way' is layed out according to the plan of the Israel's Head Tract, and according to the plan of the tract of land known as the Frazer Pasture, and according to the plan of the intervening lots; and also to my right, title and interest in and to the land lying between said 'Marginal Way' and the ocean and Ogunquit River; and in this conveyence is made subject to a pedestrian right of way heretofore conveyed to purchasers of lots on said plans.
To have and to hold the same together with all the privileges and appurtenances thereunto belonging, to the said Grantee, and its assigns forever.
And I do Covenant with the said Grantee and its assigns that I will warrant and forever defend the premises to the said Grantee, and its assigns forever, against the lawful claims and demands of all persons claiming by, through, or under me
In Witness Whereof, I the said Josiah Chase
and
Constance Mary Beatrice Chase
wife of the said Josiah Chase
joining in this deed as Grantor, and relinquishing and conveying her rights by descent and all her other rights in the above described premises, have hereunto set our hands and seals this eleventh day of August in the year of our Lord one thousand and nine hundred and twenty five.
Signed, Sealed, and Delivered in Presence of
Constance Elizabeth Talpey
Seals
Josiah Chase
Constance Mary Beatrice Chase
State of Maine, County of York, August 12, 1925
Personally appeared the above named Josiah Chase and acknowledged the above instrument to be his free act and deed.
Before Me,
'John C. Stewart' Notary Public."
This deed is recorded in York County Registry of Deeds (Alfred, Maine) in Book 746, Page 200.
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PHOTO BY HIPPLE
Ogunquit rocks (showing Kennebunk Beach, Kennebunkport and Cape Por-
ALONG THE MARGINAL WAY
O GUNQUIT is one of the greatest geological showplaces of America," says David O. Woodbury.
Ogunquit rocks are exceedingly interesting from a geological point of view. Not only are they important because of their natural beauty, but because of their structure. Artists paint Ogunquit rocks because of the varying colors, sizes, and odd shapes resembling people and animals. Geologists study them be- cause of the awe-inspiring stories they tell. These sedimentary rocks have been classified as being of the Pre-Cambrian Age. Dikes along the Marginal Way tell of the wrinkling and folding of the earth's crust in its infancy, and of the molten rock being forced up through these many openings.
Lobster Point, a stretch of rock between the mouth of the Ogunquit River and the southerly side of Israel's Head, is a very good illustration of a small dike. The flecks of light- colored rock scattered through the dark-gray background show this dike formation, and it is shown again in the several caverns which may be seen along the shoreline at low tide.
George Towar has been an interested amateur geologist and in his brochure Rocks of Ogunquit, Mr. Towar says, "There is granite, rhyolite, basalt, porphry, and syenite here in the dikes, which rocks blend into each other, and I cannot tell which is which.
"Veins of milk-white quartz run through the Ogunquit shales - in little stripes a mere fraction of an inch to long veins two or three feet thick."
The best example of this is found at a point just below Per-
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kins Cove, about a half mile to the south. This broad, pure white band makes a very striking picture against its back- ground of dark rock, and is a distinct marker to the mariners who use it to locate this part of the coast.
Although there is no large amount of metalic ores in these rocks along the Marginal Way, the entire region is dotted here and there with iron. Characteristics of iron are the beautiful shades of yellows and browns quite like an autumn forest, that appear in good-sized spots in the rocks. The sands of Ogunquit Beach are composed chiefly of quartz, with here and there small areas of either dark red or maroon sand spots which are said to come from garnets.
Again, Mr. Towar observes, "-there is so much of this ex- tremely hard metamorphosed quartzite on the shoreline here that the ocean has been able to manufacture a great deal of sand in proportion to the mud or clay, hence a wonderful, long, clean sand beach has resulted." These sandy beaches appear in several places along the Marginal Way - as at the Lobster Point and the Perkins Cove sections.
Interesting to all are the caverns which were made by the waves washing out soft rock from the dikes. The largest of these is the Devil's Pulpit which is found near the residence of Nor- man Braser. At low tide one is able to walk in this cave of brown granite origin. When the sea runs high again, each wave closes the mouth of the cave, and air is compressed. This re- sults in a stream of water which is forced out of the top of the cavern.
Another illustration is the Spouting Rock, located about half- way between Perkins Cove and Bald Head Cliff (York) . Here, too, is a splendid illustration of the light-colored flecks of rock showing through the darker areas.
The best time to observe this interesting feature is at half- tide and when the surf is running well. The water fills and leaves this cave at intervals, and the display is well-worth
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observing.
Beginning at Ogunquit Beach and continuing along the Mar- ginal Way, one may find many varieties of marine life. Un- usual shells are frequently being washed up on the sands, and the reader should be reminded that these were the same kinds of shells collected by the Indians and used both for wampum and for decoration.
Most familiar are the so-called "hen clams," which are large- sized sea clams. These are delicious morsels sought by the sea- gulls, whose raucous cries fill the air as they search the beach for this palatable food, and quarrel the while over their findings.
Then there are the mussels whose shells are lovely purple or sometimes deep blue, and again, nearly black. Mussels are found fastened to clumps of seaweed, and they range in size from less than an inch to four or even five inches in length. When cooked, these mussels are deep orange in color, and make a tasty, nourishing dish. These, too, are a favorite food of the gulls and terns.
The prize of all is the "sand dollar," and to find it in per- fect condition is unusual. About the size of the old silver dollar - better known as "the cartwheel" - these beautiful specimens are by far one of the choicest for any collection that may be made from in these parts.
Usually the color of the sand itself, these shells are difficult to find, and many a time have been literally "under foot" be- fore the searcher is aware of a shell's existence. The fine tex- ture and odd star-shaped markings resemble a five-leaf flower, symmetrical in shape, and extremely brittle. If one searches carefully in the cluster of debris from the ocean, one may find the very tiny, baby sand dollars.
Quite frequently the quahog (sometimes spelled quahaug) shells are washed along the beach. These are easily found. A tough, round shell, mostly brown in color, with shiny white on the inside, these quahogs make delightful ash trays for those
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who are looking for a novelty.
Spirals and whelks are also numerous, and may be found in many delightful colors.
Occasionally, after a storm, jelly fish are found resting in the little pools along the beach. But these are merely to be noticed and are not for the collector's box.
Another find is the sea urchin. In its familiar environment at the bottom of the ocean, the urchin has beautiful spines attached to its shell covering, but these are rubbed off by the action of the ocean, and only little hubbly spots indicate where these spines once were. The sea urchin is like a fat, little ball, flattened on the under side. Sometimes the finder is fortunate enough to see just a bit of some of the green spines on the shell. But with or without these, one of these little sea people is a lucky find.
Crab shells that are exposed to the sun's rays become a rusty pink shade, and make a colorful bit among the other paler shells.
In the little pools of water that are nestling in the rock hol- lows along the Marginal Way, the fascinating starfish may be found. Quiet by day and active by night, they are very easy to find. One delights in handling the cold, little five-armed creatures, and to feel the tiny suction cups that are ranged along each of the little arms.
Some of these starfish are tinged with a rosy tone, while others are purplish. Starfish quickly dry in the rays of the hot sun and become a permanent specimen for the collector.
Sometimes what appears to be a little green forest is dis- covered. Close examination of wee, waving branches reveal the tentacles of the barnacles which are fastened to the rocks. These tiny marine creatures in their shell houses are merely reaching out for food.
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