USA > Maine > Cumberland County > Portland > Portland by the sea; an historical treatise > Part 13
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The Fourth of July of that year was celebrated with extraordinary fervor, with ringing of bells, firing of cannon, decoration of buildings, public and private, and a very long procession of military companies, fire department, civic bodies, floats and organizations making an imposing array. In the Deering pasture, as the unoccupied land west of High Street was called, there was a traveling circus with a big tent and the ascent of a large balloon was scheduled but was delayed by the . high wind which prevailed. All this attracted a
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great concourse of citizens and people from other places.
At about four o'clock in the afternoon the bells rang out an alarm of fire. This was started in a boat builders' shop adjoining a lumber yard on Commercial Street, near Maple. In the rear was the high bank of old Fore Street, lined with wooden houses, and on the other side of Maple Street was the extensive area occupied by the Brown Sugar House establishment. The wind was blowing strongly from the south and soon the Fore Street houses were on fire. The fire department could not reach the blaze from the Commercial Street side and the smoke and flames made it impossible to do anything in front upon Fore Street. The gale carried blazing debris into the sugar house area which was encumbered with cooperage stock and combustible material. The conflagration was soon beyond control. The fire equipment consisted of a few steam engines, sup- plemented by hand tubs, so-called, and the water supply, wholly dependent upon reservoirs, cisterns and wells, was soon exhausted. In front of the oncoming fire the buildings were mostly of wood and the draft engendered by the heat gave additional strength to the gale, making it of almost hurricane force, and filling the air with blazing combustibles which, like a meteoric shower, widened and advanced the area of flaming de- struction. As night came on the city and sur- rounding country were illumined as if from a blazing volcano. The rapidity of the progress of ยท the conflagration was beyond conception. Struct-
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ures of wood, brick and stone went down with roar and rattle of falling walls in a few minutes of time. The intensity of the heat was shown by the fact that the iron rails of the horse car tracks in the center of Middle Street were warped and twisted out of shape by the heat, and stone and marble were cracked and crumbled. Most of the furniture taken from houses was burned in the streets and very little was saved. The fire fighters were help- less to do more than to hover around the outskirts and slightly to prevent the spreading of the fire to
windward. This was done by pulling down build- ings or by demolishing them with gunpowder. It was curious to see the strenuous firemen clad in their gala costumes of red shirts, and the puffing and shrieking engines still adorned with garlands and trappings of the parade.
The conflagration went on through the night and ended only when nothing combustible re- mained in its path. It swept diagonally across the city from Commercial Street to Back Cove and the farther bounds of Munjoy Hill, being practically the same territory burned over in the Captain Mowatt bombardment in the Revolu- tionary War. The morning disclosed an extraor- dinary scene of barrenness and desolation. The old observatory on Congress Street near the shore escaped the general ruin. From it could be seen in the middle distance a wilderness of chimneys, portions of brick walls that had not fallen and blackened remains of shade trees, while westerly, beyond were the green tree-tops, spires and houses . of the undestroyed portion. Besides the Brown
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Sugar House the fire took every building on the south side of Danforth Street, and substantially everything that could be burned eastward from Maple Street and the First Parish Church had dis- appeared. The beautiful elm trees were included in the destruction. The area of the burnt district was indefinite but probably included some three hundred acres. Fifty-six streets and courts and eight miles of thoroughfares, closely built, were laid waste. The buildings included the Custom House and Post Office, the fine new City Hall, eight churches, eight hotels, the Wood's Marble Hotel, nearly completed, and all the newspaper offices. All the banks, every lawyer's office, all the book stores, all the wholesale and retail dry goods houses and about one-half of the manu- factories of the city were gone. Some eighteen hundred buildings were destroyed and nearly ten thousand of the inhabitants rendered homeless. It was the greatest fire calamity that had occurred in this country up to that time.
The immediate and pressing question was how to provide food and shelter for the thousands of people who were homeless and for the most part destitute of their earthly belongings. A general relief committee of prominent citizens was at once organized with headquarters in the old City Hall in present Monument Square. Many cities and places in the United States hastened generous . contribution of money and supplies. Huge cauld- rons for the making of soup and coffee were quickly built and substantial food was furnished. In the meantime tents for shelter were put up
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RUINS OF PORTLAND AFTER GREAT FIRE OF 1866
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on Munjoy Hill and barracks were hastily con- structed in various places which were continued for quite a long time, so that there was no actual suffering. The weather was fortunately hot and favorable.
The work of rebuilding the city commenced with extraordinary promptness and vigor. A serious setback arose from the fact that the fire loss was so great as to render most of the local insurance companies incapable of meeting their obligations, and many other of such companies could not pay their losses, so that the amount received from insurance was limited. The net loss was reckoned at near six millions of dollars or more than one- quarter of the assessed valuation of the city at the time. Fortunately there was a city govern- ment composed of capable and courageous men. Augustus E. Stevens was mayor. Notwithstand- ing the great losses and the financial burden imposed upon the public, an extensive straighten- ing and relocating of streets and public places was undertaken and carried through. Pearl Street was made a thoroughfare across the city. Center Street and others were widened and some were relocated.
A brave as well as public-spirited undertaking was the condemnation of about two and a half acres of land near the old city center for the present Lincoln public park. This tract of land had been thickly covered with buildings mostly of the smaller, old style sort and made a con- nection somewhat inferior between the western and eastern sections of the city where the buildings,
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and residential structures, especially, were con- spicuously of more modern and more pretentious type. Pretty rigid building restrictions were en- acted to govern erections within definitely bounded fire limits. New houses, as they were thereafter constructed at the Bramhall and Munjoy ends of the city and elsewhere, were as a rule larger and of better architectural quality, so that a really beneficent result, to some extent, qualified the great calamity with the uprising of a modernized and more beautiful Portland in respect to its buildings, streets and architecture.
A new city hall and county building combined was put up on land contributed by the county on Congress Street at the head of Exchange, being the same location as that of the one that was burned. This was done from plans of a Portland architect, Fred H. Fassett. It had within con- venient city and county offices and court rooms and a spacious auditorium of fine acoustic quality, ample for public meetings and conventions. Out- side, with its balcony front and large artistic dome one hundred and sixty feet in height, it was a source of pride to all citizens. It was called the finest public building in the State.
After the great fire immediate interest was manifested for obtaining a sufficient water supply, and in 1867 the Portland Water Company was organized to bring water from Sebago Lake. The subject had at numerous times been considered, but by reason of the extensive rock foundation to be encountered and the large expense, it had not been . considered practicable. The new company, how-
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ever, assumed the undertaking and hastened the work so that water was let into the city conduits July 4, 1870. The occasion was celebrated with a military and civic parade. Sebago Lake, the source of the supply, is two hundred and sixty- seven feet above tide water level, so that its water is carried by gravity into the highest buildings. It is of purest quality and unlimited in amount and is for health, safety and convenience one of the greatest assets of the city.
In 1868 a company was chartered to build a railroad from Portland through the White Moun- tain Notch and there to make connections with Ogdensburg, N. Y., and with western roads. This was one of the railway projects of John A. Poor which was discontinued by his untimely decease. Notwithstanding the crippled and embarrassed condition of the city a public referendum was had, and it was voted to lend the credit of the city to the undertaking. This was done and the railroad was begun in 1869 and in spite of great engineering difficulties was pressed forward to completion. The road makes valuable connec- tions with the inland district and the West, but has encountered competition with the great trunk lines so extensive that it has not met the expecta- tion of its builders. The financial liability as- sumed by the city in addition to its other obliga- tions, secmed to be of almost impossible pro- portions but they were bravely met and honorably discharged. Though not a source of much profit it rounds out the railway system which without this road would be manifestly incomplete.
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Soon after 1860 a system of horse railways had begun, taking the place of omnibuses that had .. been in operation. In the beginning these cars were rather insignificant, most being drawn by a single horse and all having steel shod runners in winter instead of wheels. This method of trans- portation expanded more and more until its lines were located in the principal streets and became a great asset in the development of the suburbs. Its equipment and management were of the best quality.
One of the splendid municipal improvements, which was accomplished by good business man- agement and without cash outlay at a time when the city debt was close to the constitutional limit, was obtaining for park purposes the forty-acre tract of land long and popularly known as Deering's Oaks. This piece of real estate was wooded with handsome shade trees, but was not suitable in soil or location for buildings, except of the cheaper sort which would depreciate in value all around it, but was capable of being developed into an ideal public resort. The city government made an arrangement with the patriotic owners by con- cessions concerning taxes upon the adjoining lands, which would be improved by municipal care and expansion of the lot and which concession would cost the city nothing in money, such that the Deering and Preble heirs made conveyance without financial loss, while the whole municipal community received a permanent and uplifting benefit which cannot be estimated upon any material basis.
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During the years which followed after the great fire, and in spite of the burden of debt which had never been recklessly or unwisely incurred, Portland kept steadily along in the highways of progress and in manner too well known to require mention. It continuously adopted the new feat- ures which have entered into the living conditions of progressive cities. Its people, by private and public effort, promoted the establishment of the Maine General Hospital, which has been and is a great charitable asset. The city made additions to the Public Library presented by Hon. James P .. Baxter, making of it a great educational influence. Its churches, schools and public institutions have been kept abreast of the times and the municipal pride and loyalty of its citizenship have never faltered in any emergency.
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XXV
PORTLAND EXTENDS ITS BOUNDARIES AND MAINTAINS PROGRESS.
P ORTLAND, during all its history until recent times, was in respect to its territorial size one of the smallest, if not actually the least in landed extent, of the cities of this country. It was regarded as a place by itself when known by the Indian name of Machegonne, and also when it was called Casco Neck or Old Casco. Even after 1658, when it was included within the extensive boundaries given to Ancient Falmouth, and after the town was incorporated in 1719, we find it still referred to as Falmouth Neck. When it became Portland town and Portland city, the same concept of separateness applied to it. The reason for this is manifestly plain. The peninsula was, except for the slight isthmus connection with the adjacent mainland, an island with tide water boundaries, so that, although not isolated, it was and continued to be a place with characteristics of its own.
Referring still to the earlier days, Cape Eliza- beth, with present South Portland, was, as has been noted, detached from Ancient Falmouth in 1765 and became a town by itself in 1776. Still the extent was too great to keep up common interests and Falmouth Neck became the town of Portland in 1786. Westbrook, including Deering,
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was incorporated in 1814, and then the town of Falmouth as it now exists became the sole pos- sessor of the old name. Bridge connections, wisely placed, removed the inconvenience of water bar- riers and made access to the shore land convenient, but the boundaries were adapted to the situation and persistently continued. Deering became a municipal organization by itself in 1871, and as the population increased it became in all but name and government an annex of Portland. When the street railway system was extended, and after it was incorporated as a city, a large pro- portion of its people conducted their business affairs in Portland, having homes within their own jurisdiction.
The movement for annexation began quite carly, but a majority of the Deering citizens felt that they could, for a time at least, better develop their local affairs under home rule. In this they were probably correct as was shown by the widening of Forest Avenue, the finest approach to Portland; the adoption of a well-planned sewer- age system; the establishment of an efficient fire department; the erection of a large and attractive high school building, and other local improvements showing good system and foresight. The mutual relations of the two cities grew increasingly close and twice the question of annexation was sub- mitted by referendum to the voters of Deering, but each time failed to obtain the assent of a majority. The State Legislature in 1899, as the balance was nearly even, passed an act for annex- ation without popular vote and the bounds of the
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City of Portland were then enlarged to their present extent. The objectors gracefully con- curred, and all of the enlarged city has since moved forward with entirely harmonious relations. Both municipal organizations were by the leg- islative act continued in force until the next election. So that Portland, for a time, had two concurrent city governments, Charles H. Randall being mayor of the old seven wards and Augustus F. Moulton being likewise mayor of the two wards established from the added territory.
Greater Portland continued its growth and progress in steady, healthy and constantly accel- erated fashion. It has never had any sudden or artificial period of advance such as has character- ized many other American cities, even in its occasions of enforced and necessary recuperation. Each census period has made emphatic exhibit of increase, not only in numbers but in business expansion and the particular things that count in better community life.
In an outline sketch like this one cannot give in specific detail an account of a municipality which in its two later decades has had more of attainment then ever before in matters that appertain to a better as well as a bigger town. A few references may be helpful in the way of re- calling some of the events in the line of better- ment which have contributed to the generally satisfactory conditions which, even upon cursory examination, are patent to all.
New conditions of travel here and elsewhere created a demand for highways of quality such
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as former generations never anticipated. In early times the roads were not expected to be in more than passable condition, except when the ground in its natural state was comfortably hard and dry. In the spring-time and after severe storms, the mails were delayed and travel suspended quite as a matter of course. A part of the regular annual assessment upon polls and property was in general apportioned as a highway rate and paid by labor upon the roads under the supervision of a highway surveyor. As a result city streets, as well as country roads, were not uncommonly nearly or quite impassable during a part of each season. The first reference to the use of paving appears when Fore Street was the main thorough- fare for the passage of heavily loaded teams. One of the enterprising merchants of the young town, a Scotchman, whose name is not given, told of the old stone pavements in London and Edinburgh. Upon his suggestion water-worn cobble stones were brought from the neighboring beaches and used for paving in places that were especially bad. It was a great curiosity, but the idea spread and the proprietors of stores proceeded to lay paving in front of their places of business at their own expense. The citizens were then induced to vote that the town should do such work and it became a regular part of street improvement. Those cobble pavements were rough but strong and serviceable.
It was a long advance from round cobble stones to granite blocks and another long advance to the present smooth macadam and cement, but
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in this respect the streets of Portland have been brought into excellent condition and will not suffer by comparison with those of any other place. There are now within the citly limits almost exactly 135 miles of streets.
The building and extension of street railways have had great effect upon city growth. The use of horse cars began early, with the organization of the Portland and Forest Avenue Railroad Co. It operated for some years in three divisions; the Spring Street line, extending to the Grand Trunk Railway station, the Congress Street line through Congress and Middle Streets, and the Deering line from Portland to Morrills Corner. These were united into one corporation called the Port- land Railroad Company. When electricity was substituted for horse power extensive suburban branches were added. The Cape Elizabeth road was acquired by purchase, making connections with the neighboring town and the sea-shore there. The separate Yarmouth trolley line, running along the beautiful Falmouth Foreside and con- necting with Brunswick, became a part of the system. A branch track was laid to the city of Westbrook, which was productive of so much of building that continuity now extends upon both sides of the line of division between the two cities. This reaches also to Gorham and South Windham. Another branch was constructed ex- tending both to the two cities of Saco and Bidde- ford and also to the famous summer resort and place of winter residence, Old Orchard. The Lewiston trolley line is an independent proposition.
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Easy conveyance by these cars, with efficient management and fine equipment, have made Monument Square a center for a territory having a radius of more than fifteen miles. The Portland Railroad is now operated under lease to the Cumberland Electric Light and Power Co., which also supplies power, lighting and transportation.
The attractiveness of Portland has been aug- mented in many of its parts by action taken to obtain for public use lots of land at the intersection of streets and eligible places and making of them open spaces or squares. In this way congested spots like those at Deering Point, at Woodfords and at various other places have become improved and attractive. This procedure was put into effective and legalized form by legislative estab- lishment of a City Park Commission, to which was given as a permanent working income the allow- ance of one mill from the annual tax rate. By means of this income, judiciously applied, the Park Commission has been enabled to develop gradually the Boulevard along the westerly side of Back Bay and also recently to make the large and conspicuous addition of the old Casco Tannery lot to the Park of Deering's Woods. This commis- sion has won just appreciation by the sound busi- ness judgment and artistic taste which it has displayed. It has worked in public-spirited har- mony with another board, that of Recreation, which provides play-grounds and locations for out-of-door sports and health-giving recreation for children.
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The construction of new buildings and the replacement of others needs little of reference. This an observer can see for himself. It has uniformly been done in conformity with symmet- rical and high grade architecture such as makes an appeal to persons of good taste. This state- ment is especially applicable to the newer struct- ures observable in the Deering district which shows constant and rapid growth, particularly in residences and attractive homes.
The granite building finished for occupancy in 1910 for a County Court House and for county purposes was designed by George Burnham, a Portland architect. This is in outline and for utility exceedingly satisfactory. The United States Court House also in the same vicinity is of im- pressive design and appearance. The new City Hall, erected in 1910 to replace the one which had been destroyed by fire, is noted for the elegant and artistic work of its exterior finish done in granite. This building in its outlines is said to be a replica of the early City Hall of New York City, and critics might say it would have a better appearance if it had open surroundings such as the New York building had. The audito- rium within is unique in having been adapted specifically for the musical requirements of the splendid Kotzschmar organ presented to his native city by Cyrus H. K. Curtis. The municipal organ concerts here given, in connection with the musical festival which has become an annual event, have made for this city a high reputation as a musical center.
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Another accomplishment which was a product of far-sighted confidence, business acumen and disinterested loyalty to the home city, was the building of the Maine State Pier, authorized by Legislative Act in 1919. This extensive and capacious project was suggested and carried to successful accomplishment by active members of the City Chamber of Commerce which, by as- sembling statistics and statements of business facts, awakened the interest of the whole State to a realization of conditions which give to all parts of Maine material benefit by enlarged con- nection with this convenient and ample port and harbor.
The building of the long Portland Bridge con- necting with the fast-growing city of South Port- land brings a self-governing aggregation of some ten thousand people into relations with Portland itself so close that the division is only by a bound- ary line.
An enumeration of improvements that recent years have made in the city and its suburbs is suggestive of a narration by one who attempts to describe the features of an attractive landscape, and with time so limited that he can call to mind only some of the special objects that have pleased his fancy.
Portland made a radical change in its control of municipal business when in 1923 it adopted the City Council and City Manager form of govern- ment. This was done, not by reason of any particular dissatisfaction with old methods but because it was believed that what is in effect a
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board of business directors could act more effi- ciently. The new system has passed the experi- mental stage and is regarded with very general approval.
In all of its history this city has never appeared to better advantage than during the strenuous years of the World War, 1914 to 1918. Portland then arose to a plane of patriotism, generosity and willing sacrifice that was excelled by no other part of the nation. Every call of the Government was met. Every appeal for contributions for the wel- fare of the soldier boys in the camps and "over there" received full and enthusiastic response. So fine a record is worthy of much more than a brief paragraph, but it may be said that the memory of those days and deeds will forever be writ large in all historic accounts of the town.
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