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ruin and woe surged in one direction, and again in another. Everywhere misery and death held high carnival.
"'Tis dangerous to rouse the lion, Deadly to cross the tiger's path; But the most terrible of terrors Is man himself in his wild wrath."
This desolating war almost depopulated the realms of New England. No seeds were planted ; no harvests were gathered. The men could neither hunt or fish. All their energies were employed in attack or defence. Their families, driven from their blazing cabins, wandered in wretchedness through the forests. Nearly all the warriors, on both sides, were slain.
Famine and pestilence, as is frequently the case, followed the ravages of human passion. A fearful plague, one of the most dreadful recorded in history, swept over the whole region. Many tribes were quite annihilated. This terrible scourge flapped its malarious wings from the Penobscot River to Narra- ganset Bay. There were not enough left living to bury the dead. For many years their bones were seen bleaching around the ruins of their homes. No one knows what this disease was. Many have supposed it to have been the small-pox, since it was described as very loathsome. Others have believed it to have been something like the yellow fever, as it was said that the sick and dead, in color, resembled saffron. Morton writes, respecting this almost miraculous destruction of the Indians, -
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" A short time after, the hand of God fell heavily upon them, with such a mortal stroke that they died in heaps. As they lay in their houses, the living, who were able to shift for themselves, would run away, and let them die, and leave their carcasses above ground without burial. In places where many inhabited, there hath been but one left alive to tell what became of the rest ; the living being not able to bury the dead. They were left for crows, vermin, and kites to prey upon; and the bones and skulls, upon the several places of their habitations, made such a spectacle, after my coming into those parts, that, as I travelled in that forest, it seemed to me a new- found Golgotha." 1
1 Morton's New English Canaan. Amsterdam, 1837. (He came over to this country in 1622.)
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It so happened that Capt. Richard Vines, with a vessel's crew, passed this winter near Saco. He had been bred a physician, and was in command of one of Gorges' trading vessels. It is singular, that, while the natives were dying all around him, his ship's company enjoyed perfect health.
" Though the mortality," Gorges writes, " was the greatest that ever happened within the memory of man, yet not one of them ever felt their head to ache, so long as they staid there." 1
Capt. Vines named the place Winter Harbor. He had been directed by Gorges to pass the winter there, that he might report respecting the climate. Gorges had no faith in the gloomy accounts of Popham's colonists, who represented Maine as unfit for human habitation. It is manifest that Vines was well pleased with both the country and the climate, for he sub- sequently took up his residence there. His dwelling was reared upon a beautiful location on the west side of Saco River, in what is now the town of Biddeford.
In the year 1620 the Pilgrims from England landed upon Plymouth Rock, and commenced their colony, now world- renowned, and whose fame can never die. That same year seven English ships made voyages to the coast of Maine, for fish and furs. The limits of the territory granted to the Plymouth company by the crown had not been very clearly defined. Through the influence of Gorges, a new patent was obtained, increasing the powers and privileges of the company.
The new charter was issued Nov. 3, 1620. Forty noblemen, knights, and gentlemen constituted its corporate members. The territory conferred upon them consisted of the whole sea- coast extending from the fortieth to the forty-eighth degree of north latitude, and running back " from sea to sea," that is, from the Atlantic to the Pacific shores. Thus their domain extended, according to this grant, from the latitude of Philadel- phia to the mouth of the St. Lawrence, and swept across the whole breadth of the continent, about three thousand miles.2
1 America Painted to the Life, by Ferd. Gorges, Esq. 4to. London, 1659.
2 Hubbard's History of New England, p. 620; Williamson's History of Maine, vol. i. p. 222.
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· The breadth of the continent was, however, at that time, entirely unknown.
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It was well known that France laid claim to a large portion of this territory, and had many flourishing trading posts within its limits. Perhaps on this account it was stipulated that no Catholic should be permitted to settle here. The company had the exclusive right to trade and to the fishery within these ter- ritorial limits, and the power to expel all intruders.1
About twenty miles north-west from Monhegan, on the main, there is a short but broad and deep river, almost an arm of the sea, called the Damariscotta. It is navigable for large ships for a distance of about twelve miles. A little south-west from the mouth of this river, there is a group of five or six small islands, which have become quite noted in history, called the Damariscove Islands. One of these, Fisherman's Island, contains about seventy acres. There was a very good harbor here, and it was considered an important rendezvous in conducting the fisheries. About a mile south there is a larger island, called Wood or Damariscove Proper. It is two miles long, and half a mile wide.
During the year 1622 thirty English vessels, engaged in fishery and the fur-trade, cast anchor at the Damariscove Islands. One of these vessels, " The Swallow," sent its shallop to visit the Pilgrims at Plymouth. Gov. Winslow also repaired to the island to obtain supplies for his famishing colonists. He wrote, -
" I found kind entertainment and good respect, with a willingness to supply our wants, which was done so far as was able, and would not take any bills for the same, but did what they could freely." 2
This region was, at that time, far more conspicuous and impor- tant than Plymouth, in its silence and solitude, with its feeble and apparently perishing colony. During the summer months quite a fleet of vessels rode at anchor in its waters. Well- manned boats were gliding in all directions among the islands and along the shores. Notwithstanding the great depopulation
1 Belknap's History of New Hampshire.
2 Young's Chronicles, p. 293.
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of the country by the plague, there were the remnants of many tribes left. From the borders of Canada, and from scores of miles in the west, they came, eager to exchange their furs for the hatchets, knives, and iron kettles of the strangers.
The account which Winslow gives, certainly indicates that there was an enterprising and thrifty population gathered here. Their log-cabins were scattered around upon the islands and the shores of the mainland. They were, however, all mere adventurers, coming and going, with no attempt at a permanent settlement. When the storms of winter began to sweep those bleak cliffs, they had all disappeared with the robins and the swallows.
At the south-western extremity of Damariscove Island, there is a deep, sheltered inlet, which is entered by a narrow channel, bounded by precipitous rocks. This inlet afforded an admirable harbor for fishing-vessels. It is said that, on the south-eastern slope of the island, there may still be found the remains of for- tifications which were reared in those days. There were at this time two prominent points, where these trading and fishing ves- sels rendezvoused, and from which they pushed out in their various excursions. These were the region around Monhegan, which included Pemaquid and the Damariscove Islands ; and next in importance came the mouth of the Sagadahock.
In the year 1623 Capt. Levett sailed along the coast in search of a place to establish a colony. He landed at Pemaquid. There he met an Indian chief, one of the lords of Pemaquid, by the name of Samoset. The intelligent reader will remember that this man is renowned in the annals of the Plymouth Colony. He had been stolen by the kidnappers, and carried to England. Thus he had been saved from the ravages of war and from the plague. In England he met with Christian friends, who treated him with the utmost kindness, and finally restored him to his country. In gratitude he became the warm friend of the Eng- lish colonists.
But a few miles west of Damariscotta River there is Sheep- scot River, with bays and inlets, sprinkled with islands. The whole region presents an aspect of wonderful picturesque beauty. It is doubtless destined, in the future history of this country, to attain great celebrity. The whole sea-coast, from the mouth of the St. Lawrence to the capes of Florida, can present no scenery to rival it.
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Capt. Levett carefully explored this region. There were, at that time, nine ships anchored near together in these waters, engaged in fishing. He remained there four days, and was visited by many of the natives with their wives and children. A man by the name of Coke had established what we should call a country store, at the head of one of the coves. Here he carried on a brisk trade with the sailors and the natives. Several of the chiefs gathered about Capt. Levett; and he dealt so honorably with them as to win their full confidence.
Several of these chiefs brought some very rich beaver robes for sale. The sailors stole them. Levett made every possible effort to detect the thieves, and recover the goods. He ran- sacked the cabins and the chests, but all in vain. The good- natured chiefs bore their disappointment with great equanimity. Convinced that the captain had done all that could be desired to recover the stolen furs, they tried to comfort him, saying, " Well, you cannot find them. The rogues have carried them off into the woods, and hid them."
They were so much pleased with Capt. Levett that they urged him to remain and settle in their country. The follow- ing characteristic dialogue took place. as given in intelligible English. Three or four of the chiefs came to him and said,-
"Why will you go back to your own country ? Why can you not remain with us ?"
"My wife," Capt. Levett said, "will not come here unless I go back to fetch her."
"The dogs take your wife!" they exclaimed. If she will not obey your message, and come, give hier a good beating."
"But God," Capt. Levett replied, " would be displeased with me were I to do that."
" Then," said they, " leave her alone, and take another wife liere."
"If you will remain," one of them continued, "your son and mine shall be brothers, and there shall be friendship between us until Death comes to take us to his wigwam."1
Levett coasted slowly along the shore until he came to a small Indian settlement then called Quack, now York.2 It would
1 Levett's Voyage. Maine. Hist. Soc., vol. ii. p. 86.
2 This is an error. The place called Quack was not the present York, but what is now Portland harbor. Levett had a grant of a tract of land here. and on one of the four islands at the entrance of the harbor, now known as Cushings, Peaks, House, and Diamond (formerly called Hog) islands, built a house - the first built by a white man within the present limits of Portland. Levett proposed to call his settlement York, whence arose the error noted. He returned to England with the purpose of bringing over a colony, but never returned, and the exact site of his house is not now known .- ELWELL.
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seem that he had inspired the natives with so much confidence in him that they had no fears of being kidnapped. He writes,-
" The next day the wind came fair; and I sailed for Quack with the king, queen, and prince, bow and arrows, dog and kitten, in my boat. His noble attendants rowed by us in their canoes."
Much as Levett was pleased with the picturesque beauty of the region about Pemaquid, he did not deem it a suitable loca- tion for the establishment of a colony. The soil was evidently not fertile ; and the forests, composed mainly of evergreen trees, did not afford suitable timber for ship-building.
It is said, that, during the year 1623, Richard Vines and others commenced a permanent settlement at Saco. John Oldham, a gentleman of property and high position, took up his residence there with his servants. During the next six years he trans- ported many colonists to that place at his own expense.1
It is probable, that, during the year 1623, individuals com- menced a permanent residence upon Arrowsic Island, near the mouth of the Sagadahoc, and upon the mainland, at the entrance of the river at Sheepscot, at Damariscotta, at Pemaquid, and at St. George's River.2 Seven years after this, it was reported that eighty four families, besides fishermen, were residing along the coast in this region.
These men were generally reckless adventurers. Some were runaway seamen, some fugitives from justice, and some those vagrants of civilization, who, by a strange instinct, seek seclu- sion from all civil and religious restraints. The state of society was distinguished for its lawlessness. Every man followed his own impulses unchecked. The grossest immoralities prevailed. The Indians were cheated and outraged in every way to which avarice, appetite, or passion could incite depraved hearts. There was no sabbath here; no clergy to proclaim the gospel of Jesus Christ, with its alluring promises and its fearful retribu- tions. Some royal commissioners were sent out to investigate affairs. Their report was appalling. This led the Plymouth Company to adopt vigorous measures to reduce society to some condition of law and order.
Three gentlemen were sent over,- Robert Gorges as governor, Francis West as admiral, and Rev. William Merrill, invested with authority to manage public affairs. Their power seems quite absolute. They were instructed "to do what they should
1 Sullivan, p. 219. 2 Williamson, vol. i. p. 228.
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think just and fit in all cases, capital, criminal, civil, and mil- itary." Rev. William Merrill, an Episcopal clergyman, was commissioned to endeavor to establish the institutions of religion among this rude people, who were more difficult to be influenced than the Indians. Mr. Merrill met with such a reception, that he soon abandoned the effort as hopeless, and returned to England in disgust.
It was probably during this year that Sir Ferdinando Gorges established a colony on his own account, at the mouth of York River, which was then called Agamenticus. He purchased twenty-four thousand acres of land, one-half on each side of the river, and sent out a company of mechanics and farmers, with oxen and all needful tools. The management of the colony was intrusted to his grandson, Ferdinando Gorges, a young man of rank and superior abilities, and to another young man, Col. Norton, whose achievements had already won for him considerable renown. The settlement was commenced on the eastern side of the river, near the sea.1
It was just before this, that what was called the Company of Laconia was organized. The Plymouth Company made a grant to Gorges, Mason, and a number of others, who were wealthy British merchants, of the whole territory between the Kenne- bec and the Merrimack Rivers. The region was called Laco- nia.2 'The wealthy proprietors gave a very glowing description of this country. It was in their view an earthly paradise. The climate, midway between tropic heat and arctic ice, was perfect. The soil was fertile, rewarding the slight labor of the husband- man with abundant harvest. The forests were magnificent, furnishing the best ship-timber in the world, and were filled with game. The bays and rivers swarmed with fish of every variety, including an abundance of the most delicious of all
1 Belknap's Biog., vol. ii. p. 322.
? Recent investigations show that the territory between the Merrimack and the Kennebec Rivers, granted to Mason and Gorges in 1622, was not that known as Laconia. The latter, secured to Mason and Gorges by patent at a later date (1629), was a province bordering on Lake Champlain and extend- ing half-way to Lake Ontario on the west, and northward to the St. Law- rence River. It was believed by Gorges and Mason that Lake Champlain was only about a day's march from the coast, and a company was formed to develop the anticipated trade; but their agents were never able to find the province, and in 1634, after incurring heavy losses, the company was dis- solved. - EL.WELL.
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fishes, the trout and the salmon. The atmosphere was invigor- ating and healthy in the highest degree, and the skies outrivalled in splendor the far-famed skies of Italy. It is not strange that such representations, spread broadcast over the land, should greatly have revived the zeal for emigration.1
Settlements began rapidly to increase along the coast, and to spread inland. The Pilgrims at Plymouth established a trad- ing house on the Penobscot, and another at the mouth of the Sagadahoc near the site of Popham's settlement. They se- cured land on both sides of the river, which seemed then to be called both Kennebec and Sagadahoc. A few miles up the river they established a post, where they kept a store of corn and merchandise in deposit. Quite a lucrative trade was car- ried on with the natives for furs. The celebrated " wampum " was introduced as the representative of money, or the currency medium. This consisted of belts, very gorgeously embroidered with blue and white shells. Subsequently brilliantly colored beads were substituted for shells.2
It is difficult, if not impossible, to fix with precision the dates of operations, thus gradual in their inception and growth. It was probably in the year 1628 that these movements were vigorously commenced upon the Kennebec.3
At this time Pemaquid was probably the most busy spot upon the New England coast. Two British merchants had purchased it, on condition that they would, at their own cost, transport colonists there, and establish a settlement. A court was ere long established. Thus Pemaquid became the centre both of law and trade. It is said that it was then a more important port than Quebec, the capital of Canada. Its population was estimated at five hundred souls.4
The situation of Pemaquid, which was the most eligible mainland site near Monhegan, was very alluring. The harbor
1 Hubbard's New England, p. 616; Belknap's Biography, vol. i. p. 306; Wil- liamson's Maine, vol. i. p. 225.
2 Young's Chronicles, p. 14; Sewall's Ancient Dominions, p. 113.
8 It is not certain whether this trading-house was at the mouth of the Kenne- bec or just above Merrymeeting Bay. See Prince's Chronological History of New England, p. 169.
4 Thornton's Pemaquid, p. 65.
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was a small circular basin, formed by the gently flowing river, before its waters entered the ocean through a channel but a hundred and fifty feet wide. This bay was many fathoms deep. It was encircled on the west by rocky eminences, with a clump of trees upon the extreme outmost point. This point was the site of the ancient town and harbor of Pemaquid. Mr. Sewall writes, -
" The peninsula has evidently, at some period, been entirely circumval- lated with water, and thus separated from the main, with which it was prob- ably connected by an artificial way. It has also been walled in. The outline of its defences can still be traced. Its streets were paved with peb- ble-stones, and many of its buildings were of like material. The principal street, passing longitudinally between the extremes of this peninsula north and south, was paved, and is still to be traced, though nearly overgrown with grass or covered with earth. The outlines of the fort, and the position of its tower, in the south-westerly extreme of the peninsula, and immediately fronting the harbor's entrance, are, in distinct detail, traceable in every curve and square, amid mouldering lime and rock, the fragments of its masonry." 1
It is indeed an interesting locality, not only from its rugged and picturesque scenery, where the ocean, broken into lakelets, and where islands and headlands, add charms to the view, but from the historic associations which meet the visitant at almost every footstep. The writer, with a party of gentlemen inter- ested in antiquarian research, visited, a few years ago, this locality, by far the most memorable upon the coast of Maine. A luxuriant mowing-field now covers the ground, where, two hundred and fifty years ago, the hamlets stood, in whose streets the moccasined Indian and the European adventurer met in eager traffic. There is a small space enclosed where the ashes of the dead repose.
"Life's labor done, securely laid In this their last retreat, Unheeded o'er their silent dust The storms of life shall beat."
With eloquence Mr. Sewall writes of this region, now so silent and solitary : -
"About this devoted spot, armies have gathered like eagles to the carcass, and the din of war, in all its accumulated horrors of blood and carnage, has
1 Ancient Dominions of Maine, p. 115.
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raged. The ships of contending nations have tinged its waters with human gore, and poured their iron hail in destructive broadsides upon its fortified places, till the ruthless storm has swept its streets, and crushed out at once the life and energy of its defenders. Here the red man with a howl of defi- ance, and the white man with the subdued voice of prayer, have bitten the dust together, amid the shrieks of forlorn women and helpless children."
This region having passed into the proprietorship of Brit- ish merchants, rapidly increased in population ; and a better class began to appear than the rude sailors of former years. Mechanics and farmers came. The Pilgrims at Plymouth were gaining strength, and their fields were waving with corn. A brisk trade was opened between Plymouth and Pemaquid, shal- lop-loads of corn being exchanged for furs.
There was peace between the settlers and the natives. Still there was no cordial friendship. With the French in Canada it was different. They lived, in general, with the natives, affec- tionately as brothers. They sold powder and fire-arms to the Indians as freely as any other articles. They travelled among them as confidingly as they would have journeyed through the provinces of France. But the English did not dare to trust the natives with pistols and muskets. They seldom ventured any distance from their fortresses unarmed. Even a royal proclamation was issued, forbidding the sale of fire-arms to the natives.1
Any attempt to describe the various grants at this time, made to individuals and companies, would but weary the reader. The Saco settlement was prosperous, and had the reputation of being highly orderly. In the year 1630 a patent was obtained grant- ing a territory called Lygonia. It is said to have extended from Kennebunk on the west, to Harpswell on the east. Three Lon- don gentlemen were the proprietors. To encourage emigration, they published very glowing accounts of the region. In scene- ry, climate, soil, timber, fish, and game, it was every thing that was desirable. Thus influenced, a company of emigrants landed in Casco Bay, at some point now not with certainty ascer- tained.2 They remained but a year, when, dissatisfied with the country, they scattered and disappeared.
1 Williamson, vol. i. p. 234.
2 Williamson, vol. i. p. 239; Sullivan, p. 305; Hubbard's New England, 616.
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About the same time another patent was issued, which subse- quently attained much note as the Waldo Patent. It covered a region of thirty square miles, and extended from the Muscon- gus to the Penobscot. Its principal object was to confer the right of exclusive trade with the Indians.1 The various patents, granted by the Plymouth Council, extended along the whole sea- board, from the Piscataqua to the Penobscot, excepting the small region between the mouth of the Kennebec and Damariscotta.
The territory of Sagadahoc, extending from the mouth of the Kennebec to Damariscotta, was about fifteen miles in width. All along the coast, emigrants were gradually pushing their way back into the country. There was a region called " Sheepscot Farms," where fifty families were gathered. . In what is now called Boothbay and in Woolwich, many fishermen had reared their huts. Various incidents of minor importance must be omitted in a narrative covering so much space as is included in this history. One event occurring at this time merits especial notice.
A trading port had been established on the Penobscot at a point called Bagaduce, now Castine.2 A very lucrative trade was carried on with the Indians, mainly in furs. It will be remembered that there was a dispute as to the proprietorship of this region, it being claimed alike by the French and the Eng- lish. A small French vessel entered the bay, and, finding the port defenceless, plundered it of all its furs, which were esti- mated to be worth two thousand dollars. Gov. Bradford, of Plymouth Colony, gives the following description of this event : -
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