USA > Maine > Lincoln County > Boothbay > The shipping days of old Boothbay from the revolution to the world war : with mention of adjacent towns > Part 13
Note: The text from this book was generated using artificial intelligence so there may be some errors. The full pages can be found on Archive.org (link on the Part 1 page).
Part 1 | Part 2 | Part 3 | Part 4 | Part 5 | Part 6 | Part 7 | Part 8 | Part 9 | Part 10 | Part 11 | Part 12 | Part 13 | Part 14 | Part 15 | Part 16 | Part 17 | Part 18 | Part 19 | Part 20 | Part 21 | Part 22 | Part 23 | Part 24 | Part 25 | Part 26 | Part 27 | Part 28 | Part 29 | Part 30 | Part 31 | Part 32 | Part 33 | Part 34 | Part 35 | Part 36 | Part 37 | Part 38 | Part 39 | Part 40
Monday, November 17. A regular easterly storm set in. I was sick and miser- able; my head ached all the time and continued to do so until Wednesday week that is at the present time of writing. Wind somewhere between South and East.
[Entries of November 18, 19, 21, 22, 23, 24 all alike: Sick and miserable.] Thursday, November 20. Thanksgiving day! A very poor one for me how- ever; with the ship rolling and pitching and me miserably sick.
Tuesday, November 25. Weather somewhat more favorable. Got up and went on deck; felt better.
Wednesday, November 26. (Lat. 43º 32'. Long. 21° 06'.) Today it is very pleasant with a moderately fair wind; but we have been driven very much out of our course, for though we had intended to pass to the southward of the Western Islands we have been driven far to the north of them and shall
128
THE SHIPPING DAYS OF OLD BOOTHBAY
have to work our way south. All on board concur in saying that it was very extraordinary for the wind to hold so long from that quarter. During the - storm we have carried away several sails. Today I calculated with the help of the mate how far we were from Gibraltar, and made it 780 miles or rather sixtieths of a degree. Wind light.
Thursday, November 27. (Lat. 42º 43'. Long. 19º 19'.) Last night I saw for the first time the water in a burning state. It was beautiful to see it as the bows of the vessel threw it aside. I also saw the fiery tracks of some porpoises but could not see them, (the fish). The second mate tried to spear one but he only got one chance and missed. The fire of the waves is a peculiar white, that looks very infernal. Today it is almost calm. I saw two vessels yester- day afternoon.
Friday, November 28. (Lat. 41º 31'. Long. 16° 55'.) A pleasant day with a light breeze. Saw a shoal of porpoises coming toward the vessel; the mate rigged the harpoon, but they passed to windward and he did not get a chance at them. Saw a barque going the other way. Went to main truck for the first time.
Saturday, November 29. (Lat. 41° 10'. Long. 13º 54'.) A pleasant day and good breeze.
Bill of Fare-Sunday, Soup, Beef, potatoes; Monday, Variety; Tuesday, Beans, Beef, Potatoes; Wednesday, Variety; Thursday, Beef, Potatoes, Duff; Saturday, Cape Cod turkeys, Potatoes, and flippers.
This is our regular dinner with occasional variations.
Nine vessels were seen from the ship today. Some porpoises kept darting back and forth under the bows.
Sunday, November 30. The last day of November. We expect to see the coast of Spain tomorrow. It is a very pleasant day with a good breeze. I studied French today.
Monday, December 1. I had my first glimpse of the Old World early this morning; rushing up in my night trousers when the steward said the coast was in sight. All that was to be seen however was a bluish cloud ahead. Toward noon it became quite distinct. It was Cape St. Vincent that I first saw distinctly. The shore is high and very precipitous. The only buildings that I have seen have been a lighthouse and what I suppose to be a monas- tery. I feel as if I had got somewhere now, and nearer home withal than I did before, for I can see the land, and send news of myself when the vessel
129
A VOYAGE TO THE MEDITERRANEAN
stops; besides receiving letters from home. I have not heard from home for a long time.
Tuesday, December 2. The land is no longer in sight. I went into water this morning; it was first-rate. It is very pleasant with a light breeze.
Wednesday, December 3. This morning I had some water poured over me. It is very pleasant, and bright and warm, not like December at all.
Thursday, December 4. Continued the water bath, and intend to do so every pleasant day. Pleasant with a light breeze. Towards night saw the coast of Africa.
Friday, December 5. The Strait was in sight in the morning. The shores are high and rocky. The soil appears to be red sand; it is divided by hedges, and in places there were spots of green, which I suppose were clumps of trees. Beyond this the land sloped up into mountains covered with scanty vegeta- tion. We passed in one place quite a town which I suppose was Tariffe. About 12 o'clock we came in sight of Gibraltar and from that time until dark I watched it almost all the time. We passed it about 31/2 o'clock. On the westerly side there is first a low beach and then a slight elevation fortified its whole length, then a terrace and then another higher cliff, which is also fortified all along its edge; then another terrace, and then the hill slopes up and on top is the castle. These were all the fortifications that I could see. The face of the cliff is perpendicular and very high. In the middle is a great sand-bank that reaches three-quarters of the way up the cliff. The steward has been all over the fortifications, and speaking of the batteries in the rock itself he says that the guns are slung in chains and there is a wooden plat- form fastened on outside for them to go out on, and load them. Now we are in the Mediterranean! Hurrah! Just one month from Boston.
Saturday, December 6. It is pleasant today with a light breeze. We are keeping along by the European shore. It is all high mountains here. There are some white spots on the tops of some of them whichi I suppose to be snow.
Sunday, December 7. Almost calm; but going to the south considerably. This is the fifth Sunday on the sea.
Monday, December 8. In sight of Africa. Sometimes a little wind in one di- rection and sometimes a little in another, or none at all.
Tuesday, December 9. Part of the time today it has been perfectly calm; but there is a little breeze now. We are not in sight of either shore. Yesterday
130
THE SHIPPING DAYS OF OLD BOOTHBAY
I found my knife which I lost during my sea-sickness, and this morning I cut my finger. Yesterday I had a bad sick-headache, but it is better today. This afternoon neither coast is in sight.
Wednesday and Thursday, December 10 and 11. Rainy and stormy. I was sick and miserable.
Friday to Sunday, December 12 to 14. Pleasant weather and pretty good breeze. Sunday night we came in sight of Malta.
Monday, December 15. Towed in harbour this morning by the steam-tug Bull-Dog. From the sea the land looks like one great succession of stone walls. When we got in I went ashore and strolled about awhile and then went up to the Consul's but received no letters. I was dreadfully disap- pointed. In the afternoon I went out in Mr. Eynaud's carriage to San Antoine, where there is a public garden principally of oranges.
Tuesday, December 16. Went to one of the men-of-war and went over her and to the Consul's in the morning. In the afternoon I went along all the fortifications to St. Elmo where I struck acquaintance with a young officer of Artillery who showed me over part of the works, and promised to show me the rest if I would come Thursday. The steward got a letter today but no one else in the ship.
Wednesday, December 17. I did not feel well in the morning and stayed in the ship. Went to dinner at Mr. Eynaud's; in the afternoon went to ride with Mr. Eynaud's brother. Went round the Quarantine Harbour and out to Sliemar which is on the shore. On the way I saw a Russian prize and also one of the crookeer stick ploughs in use here. [A small sketch showing a 'lateen' sail.] The sort of sail in use here.
Thursday, December 18. In the morning my head and stomach ached dreadfully, but as it was my last day I went to St. John's Chapel, the Armory, and the Grand Master's Palace in the morning and to St. Elmo in the after- noon. St. John's is splendid; the roof is all painted, but it is dim and faded except over the door where there is a representation of an angel with a sword [sketch of a sword with undulating blade] and the cross [sketch of Maltese Cross], on his breast leading on the knights to victory. The floor is entirely composed of mural tablets of coloured marble and is the hand- somest part of the church. The monuments are very handsome; there is one to old Cottoner borne up by a negro and also a Turkish slave. I saw the room where the monks had their cash before Boney appropriated it. The
131
A VOYAGE TO THE MEDITERRANEAN
Armory was rather slim; plenty of armour but poor and broken; there were some of the old knights' cannon, the largest about the size of a 12 pounder and made of rope wound round a cylinder of sheet copper and covered with leather. The smaller ones were cast in iron, brass or lead, and one was of iron with a muzzle and breech of brass and a cover of wood to keep it dry I suppose when not in use. Many of them would have made nice little play- things. There were two old Turkish gun-cannons on the same principle as Sharpe's rifle only with a little machinery. There is nothing new under the sun. There was an old suit of armour with a hole, in the breast, which made me think of spearing lobsters, and another with several dents of balls in it. The Grand Master's Palace had a number of fine pictures in it, among which I noticed La Valette, Louis XVI, George IV, St. George and the Dragon, and St. Michael and the Devil, of which there is an almost exact counterpart, (only rather better) at the Atheneum at Boston. The ballroom has a wooden floor, an extraordinary thing here. There is some handsome tapestry in the Council Chamber, and some fresco drawings near the ceiling in some of the rooms pretty well done. In the galleries there are representa- tions of naval conflicts. I saw a man I supposed to be the Grand Master, a cross, interrupting, old donkey, with a red vest. Alas! how fallen; the Grand Master of Malta !! Psha !!!! I also went to the Library which is quite large.
Friday, December 19, to Wednesday, December 24. We left Malta in the afternoon with a smashing breeze, and stood for the City of the Sultans. For the next five days we sailed along with a fair breeze, until on the next Wed- nesday we entered the Hellespont, and I saw the plain of Troy, and the old and new castles, and that night we entered the sea of Marmora.
Thursday, December 25. During this day we made but slow progress but we expected to see Constantinople Friday morning.
Friday, December 26. In the morning I ran up the gangway and saw CON- STANTINOPLE. There it was before me in the sunlight, Stamboul, Scutari, the Seven Towers, mosques, minarets, and hospitals, with the Crescent and Star floating over all. A pilot came off to us in a caique (how beautiful the caiques are) and in we went past the Seraglio gardens and dropped anchor in the GOLDEN HORN. I went with the Captain up to Mr. Brown's, (the Con- sul), and presented my letters of introduction. He invited me to come and stay with him, and I accepted. In the evening Mr. Peters came in, and I pre- sented to him, a letter of introduction which I had from Mr. Eynaud.
Saturday, December 27. I took a walk with Mr. Peters and saw the Turkish
-
132.
THE SHIPPING DAYS OF OLD BOOTHBAY
man-of-war and the old wall of Galata, said to have been built by the Genoese. Slept at Mr. Brown's.
Sunday, December 28. Went to church in the morning. Was introduced to Mr. Dwight, (a missionary) and went home with him. In the afternoon I went to Sunday school. Slept at Mr. Dwight's.
Monday to Saturday, December 29, 1856, to January 3, 1857. Went with Henry, Mr. Dwight's son, down to the seawall, and walked along on it; on the way, went through the Bostan, a great vegetable garden. Went to see the mausoleum of one of the Sultans, the burnt column, the Seraglio grounds, the Hippodrome and the mosques of St. Sophia and Sultan Ach- met. I stayed at Mr. Dwight's until Saturday.
Saturday, January 3. Eddy Goodell came there also, and we both got into the Sea of Marmora. I paid several visits to the Bliss' and had a pretty good time.
Went back to Mr. Brown's. Mr. and Mrs. Wild have been staying here some time, and are very kind to me.
Sunday to Wednesday, January 4 to 7. During these days I went over to the Seraskia (where there are the Seraskia Tower, barracks, hospitals and the offices of the War Department), several times, with Mr. Wild. The building of the War Department was one of the old Sultan's palaces, and all full of crooked passages, with men running up and down them, with their shoes in hand to get their pay, and chaps with great ornamental pipes. Here I ate some muhullabee, a kind of blanc-mange. I went up the Seraskia Tower from which there is a magnificent view of the whole city, the Golden Horn, the Sea of Marmora, the Bosphorus, and the Islands of Princes. I also went to the Bazars and bought some Turkish boots and fezs.
Thursday, January 8. I went aboard about noon, and as she was not likely to start very soon, I went ashore again with a bag, and bought my cheese- knife and stirrups and got my turbans, (and such a tug as it was down Galata hill). We were towed out that night by a steam-tug, and were once again under-way.
Friday, January 9. By morning we were far from the City of the Sultans, and that night we were in the Aegean. We had to stop at the Old Castles and send a boat on shore.
Saturday, January 10. There was a strong breeze all day, consequently I was sick for a corresponding period.
133
A VOYAGE TO THE MEDITERRANEAN
Sunday, January 11. It was nearly calm all day and we lay during that time in the Gulf of Smyrna-On
Monday, January 12, however, we went in early in the morning, but I could not go ashore at all that day as my name was not on the Bill of Health. My passport was also sent for.
Tuesday, January 13. Went to Caravan Bridge, and smoked a narghile. Saw a funeral in the afternoon. I afterwards saw a funeral with an image of the Crucifixion, candles, etc., borne in front, and the lid of the coffin off, so that the dead person could be seen.
Wednesday, January 14. In the morning I went through the bazars and up a minaret from which I had a good view, and joined with the muezzin in calling the faithful. Mr. Blackler invited me to dinner, and I afterwards rode out with him to Boujar, a village about four miles from Smyrna, where. he has a country-house. The roads were horrible; those of Scituate delight- ful in comparison. I stayed there that night.
Thursday, January 15. Presented my letter to Mr. Lombard, and also to Mr. Dodd who went with me in the afternoon to the Castle. This was my first ride on donkey-back; I liked it very well. There is a very fine view from the Castle. The outside walls are mostly destroyed, but the inner ones are whole and strong, and used as pens for sheep. There is a mosque inside, but not at present in use. There are also large cisterns with arched roofs under ground. I took tea at Mr. Dodd's and then went on board.
Friday, January 16. Saw dancing dervishes, and a new Armenian church being built. It is surrounded by a strong wall with heavy gates. In the outer wall are imbedded several old bas-reliefs. There was some rain.
Saturday, January 17. Did not go ashore all day as it was rainy and miser- able. There were two Captains aboard to tea.
Sunday, January 18. Went on shore. Took a walk and bath. The hum- maums here are not so good as at Constantinople.
Monday, January 19. Went to Mr. Lombard's. He invited me to come next day and stay with him.
Tuesday, January 20. Went aboard ship, she was about half loaded. In the evening I went to a card-party next door with Mr. Lombard.
Wednesday, January 21. Took a long walk to the barracks, the Jewish bury-
-
£
134
THE SHIPPING DAYS OF OLD BOOTHBAY
ing-ground, and up a steep hill beyond the city. There were a large number of camels here, and I got a ride on one of them. Coming home I went into the inner fort; it has no guns larger than 32S.
Thursday, January 22. Went up to castle; coming down I saw the old sub- terraneous passage from far down the hill. I then went and got some kibobs -which were first-rate,-and saw them spin silk by hand.
Friday, January 23. Took a walk to the gardens-miserable cabbage fields- and went on board ship. In the evening I and Mr. Lombard went to Mr. Rees's.
Saturday, January 24. In the morning, I went on board ship, and got some duds, and in the evening, I went to a grand Carnival Ball at the Levantine Casino, to which Mr. Mirzan was so kind as to procure me an introduction; it was a very handsome affair.
Sunday, January 25. Took dinner at Mr. Mirzan's; afterwards went and saw the dervishes cure sick children by laying them on the floor and yelling around them.
Monday, January 26. Stormy all day; I did not go out.
Tuesday, January 27. Saw the Captain; could not say when we should start. Took a walk. Went to Mr. Rees's in the evening.
Wednesday, January 28. Pleasant but windy. Took tea at Mr. Dodd's and received a package and letter to forward to the Missionary House.
Thursday, January 29. Bade good-bye to all my friends, and went to the ship-chandler's. Saw the Captain and went with him, and bought figs. Rainy and unpleasant.
Friday, January 30. Got under-weigh for home early in the morning in the rain. Very pleasant in the afternoon. Did not make much progress as it was nearly calm. Did not feel very well. Hurrah for home!
[Entries on January 31, February 1, 3, and 5 all of seasickness.]
Monday, February 2. Felt better toward night. Set things to rights and went on deck. Just passing an island.
Wednesday, February 4. Felt better toward night. Out of sight of land.
Friday, February 6. At about four o'clock in the morning there was a terrific hailstorm, and blow. Carried away the top gallant sail. Felt better. In sight
0
135
A VOYAGE TO THE MEDITERRANEAN
of Sicily all day. After dark spoke the barque Yankee Blade of Canton, Maine. She started from Constantinople on the same day as ourselves, and . came direct. Read Shakspeare, sewed, and whetted cheese-knife. In sight of land all day.
Saturday, February 7. Pleasant but calm. Toward night a nice breeze. Got up topgallant sail, and rigged out studding-sails. In sight of Sicily all day. Read Henry V., made buttonholes, and played marbles.
Sunday, February 8. Rained a little in the morning. Out of sight of land. Had no butter for tea.
Monday, February 9. Squall in the afternoon. Out of sight of land. Read and mended my coat.
Tuesday, February 10. Calm all day. Saw two turtles. In sight of an island. Very pleasant.
Wednesday, February 11. In sight of Cape Bon. In sight of Africa all day. Strong and fair breeze in the morning, gradually decreasing towards night. Read Henry Sixth.
Thursday, February 12. Pleasant. Calm in the morning. In the afternoon a light breeze. Saw some porpoises alongside.
Friday, February 13. Out a fortnight. Light breezes. Out of sight of land. Forbidden any fresh water to brush my teeth. Had a light in the cabin to- night !!! for a short time.
Saturday, February 14. Pleasant day and good breeze. Made buttonholes and read Henry Sixth.
Sunday, February 15. Miserable, damp, misty day. Did not feel well. Felt better toward night.
Monday, February 16. Very warm at noon, had on my thin clothes. Read Henry Sixth and sewed.
Tuesday, February 17. Pleasant. Fair but light breezes. Boat came along- side and we got some fish. In sight of land all day. Sewed and cyphered. Spoke a French vessel.
Wednesday, February 18. In the morning cloudy and damp, afterwards more pleasant. At four o'clock, passed Gibraltar for the second time, and by night we were on the broad Atlantic homeward bound. In the night we were nearly run into twice. Home !!!!
1
136
THE SHIPPING DAYS OF OLD BOOTHBAY
Thursday, February 19. Pleasant day with a strong head wind. Fairly started with a clear horizon at last. Read and sewed. Butter for tea !! Cyphered considerably.
Friday, February 20. (Lat. 35° 48'. Long. 7º 51'.) Pleasant but calm. Had a very good view of some porpoises. Read and wrote and calculated about fixing tackles. Lat. 36° 1'. Long. 8° 48'. This is by reckoning, not chronom- eter.
Saturday, February 21. Fair, nine knot breeze all day. Broke both shins awfully. Saw some porpoises. Saw a barque steering more to the southward. Hove the log today for the first time. Lat. 36° 06'. Long. 11.º 50'.
Sunday, February 22. Pleasant day, with the wind fair and strong. At about one o'clock came in sight of Porto Santo. Passed and signalled a French vessel under topsails and we under full sail! At about five o'clock came in sight of Madeira and the wind increasing shortened sail. Lat. 33º 33'. Long. 16° 30'.
Monday, February 23. (Lat. 32° 07'. Long. 19º 19'.) Pleasant day. The wind gradually hauled ahead. Towards night overcast, and after tea a squall with rain. Made a top-string of several small pieces of twine spliced together and put a fancy knot on the end.
Tuesday, February 24. (Long. 30° 38'. Long. 22º 25'.) Warm but cloudy. Fair seven knot breeze. As my top-string turned out too stiff I laid up a new one which was very good.
Wednesday, February 25. (Lat. 29º 47'. Long. 24° 48'.) Alternate showers and bright sun. Captain threw my top overboard. I made a whip top. Wind fair but light.
Thursday, February 26. (Lat. 29º 00'. Long. 27° 20'.) Bright, pleasant, day, and fair smart breeze. Had a shower in the afternoon. Read and sewed.
Friday, February 27. (Lat. 28º 12'. Long. 31° 12'.) Bright, pleasant day, wind somewhat ahead. Passed two vessels. One looked like an American, and the other carried Swedish colours. Showed our ensign. He made a bow with his. Towards night a heavy rain, but without a squall. Out a month, in another I hope to be at home. Had the starboard pump out as it leaked and would not draw. Caulked the split.
Saturday, February 28. (Lat. 28° 07'. Long. 31° or'.) In the morning dead calm. As the pump still would not work, it was got out again and fixed
137
A VOYAGE TO THE MEDITERRANEAN
properly. Saw swells running opposite ways. Took an observation of the sun, which the mate said was very good. In the afternoon a breeze so that she could just lay her course. This is the last day of the month and before the last of next I hope to be home.
Sunday, March 1. Pleasant day, breeze fair and moderate. Felt first-rate. Saw several nautili and lots of rock-weed. Made a very pleasant beginning of the month. Lat. 27° 04'. Long. 34° 53'.
Monday, March 2. Pleasant with a fair nine knot breeze. Lat. 26° 40'. Long. 39° 04'.
Tuesday, March 3. Bright and pleasant in the morning. In the afternoon overcast. Lat. 26° 39'. Long. 42° 57'.
Wednesday, March 4. In the morning two showers; afterwards bright. In the afternoon overcast. Breeze fair and moderate. Rockweed has been con- tinually floating past, forming long lines E. N. E. and W. S. W. Lat. 26° 49'. Long. 46° 46'.
Thursday, March 5. Bright and pleasant. Wind fair but light. Lat. 27° 14'. Long. 50° 01'.
Friday, March 6. Out five weeks. Very warm but almost calm. Wind some- what ahead. Beautiful day. Lat. 27° 34'. Long. 51º 56'.
Saturday, March 7. Very light breeze, and very warm and bright. Ther- mometer 711/2° in the cabin and may have been higher. Lat. 28º 15'. Long. 53° 36'.
Sunday, March 8. Sun even hotter than yesterday but a little more breeze. The mate hooked two dolphins but did not get either. Lat. 28º 35'. Long. 54° 40'.
Monday, March 9. Several showers, almost. Breeze stronger. At about three o'clock A.M. spoke barque Leroy fourteen days from Boston bound to La Guayra. Painted the quarter-deck, and the smell of the varnish made me unwell. Lat. 29° 23'. Long. 55° 55'.
Tuesday, March 10. Strong breeze, nearly ahead when we are on our course. Lat. 31° og'. Long. 56° 06'.
Wednesday, March 11. After dark last night there was a squall, with rain. This morning it was calm with several smart showers, this afternoon the rain has ceased but it is still calm. The vessel rolls very much. Lat. 32° 04'. Long. 59º 33'.
138
THE SHIPPING DAYS OF OLD BOOTHBAY
Thursday, March 12. Strong breeze tolerably fair. After dark had a smart squall. Saw a brigantine. Saw a large shoal of porpoises breaching. Lat. 33º 16'. Long. 61° 10'.
Friday, March 13. Out six weeks. Head wind; double-reefed topsail and mainsail. Pretty cold. Sea-sick almost all day. Came near running into a wreck last night; the masts were gone close down, and the sea made a clean breach over her. Lat. 34º 29'. Long. 63º 10'.
Saturday, March 14. Wind fair and strong. In the afternoon it increased to a gale. The vessel rolled very much. Did not have tea on the table. Had a light in the cabin. It was quite cold. Considerable water came into the cabin through the sky-light, and down the companion-way into the entry. Lat. 35° 23'. Long. 64° 51'.
Sunday, March 15. Nearly calm, and overcast. A boat bottom up, and con- siderable timber has been seen. Lat. 36° 08'. Long. 65° 47'.
Monday, March 16. Overcast all day, with an eight knot breeze behind. After dark the wind increased. The phosphorescence was very brilliant. In the Gulf Stream. Thermometer 71º in the water.
Tuesday, March 17. Double reefed topsail. Head wind. Out of the Gulf. Sun out, but cold. Lat. 38° 37'. Long. 68° 54'.
Wednesday, March 18. Sunshiny but cold. Spoke barque Ala from Phila- delphia to London. Fair wind six knot. Lat. 39º 55'. Long. 68° 54'.
Need help finding more records? Try our genealogical records directory which has more than 1 million sources to help you more easily locate the available records.