USA > Michigan > Calhoun County > Calhoun County, Michigan, rural directory, 1916 > Part 21
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30. Grape Diseases on the Pacific Coast.
34. Meats: Composition and Cooking.
35. Potato Culture.
36. Cotton Seed and Its Products.
44. Commercial Fertilizers.
48. The Manuring of Cotton.
51. Standard Varieties of Chickens. 52. The Sugar Beet.
54. Some Common Birds.
55. The Dairy Herd.
61. Asparagus Culture.
62. Marketing Farm Produce.
64. Ducks and Geese.
77. The Liming of Soils.
81. Corn Culture in the South.
85. Fish as Food.
86. Thirty Poisonous Plants.
88. Alkali Lands.
91. Potato Diseases and Treatment.
99. Insect Enemies of Shade Trees.
101. Millets.
104. Notes on Frost.
106. Breeds of Dairy Cattle.
113. The Apple and How to Grow It.
118. Grape Growing in the South.
121. Beans, Peas, and Other Legumes Food.
126. Suggestions for Farm Buildings.
.27. Important Insecticides.
128. Eggs and Their Uses as Food.
131. Tests for Detection of Oleomargarine. 134 Tree Planting in Rural School Grounds. 137. The Angora Goat.
138. Irrigation in Field and Garden.
139. Emmer: a Grain for the Semi-arid Re- gions.
140. Pineapple Growing.
150. Clearing New Land.
152. Scabies in Cattle.
154. The Home Fruit Garden
156. The Home Vineyard.
157. The Propagation of Plants.
158. How to Build Irrigation Ditches.
164. Rape as a Forage Crop
166. Cheese Making on the Farm. 167. Cassava.
170. Principles of Horse Feeding.
172. Scale Insects and Mites on Trees.
173. Primer of Forestry. 174. Broom Corn.
175. Home Manufacture of Grape Juice.
176. Cranberry Culture. 177. Squab Raising.
178. Insects Injurious in Cranberry Culture. 179. Horseshoeing. 181. Pruning.
182. Poultry as Food.
183. Meat on the Farm.
185. Beautifying the Home Grounds.
187. Drainage of Farm Lands.
188. Weeds Used in Medicine.
192. Barnyard Manure.
194. Alfalfa Seed.
195. Annual Flowering Plants.
198. Strawberries. 200. Turkeys.
201. The Cream Separator on Western
Farms.
203. Canned Fruits, Preserves and Jellies. 204. The Cultivation of Mushrooms.
205. Pig Management.
206. Milk Fever and Its Treatment.
213. Raspberries
218. The School Garden.
220. Tomatoes.
221. Fungous Diseases of the Cranberry.
224. Canadian Field Peas.
228. Forest Planting and Farm ment.
Manage-
229. Production of Good Seed Corn.
231. Cucumber and Melon Diseases.
232. Okra: Its Culture and Uses.
234. The Guinea Fowl.
236. Incubation and Incubators.
238. Citrus Fruit Growing in States.
the Gulf
239. The Corrosion of Fence Wire.
241. Butter Making on the Farm.
242. An Example of Model Farming.
243. Fungicides and Their Use.
245. Renovation of Worn-ont Soils.
246. Saccharine Sorghums.
as 248. The Lawn.
249. Cereal Breakfast Foods.
250. Wheat Smut and Loose Smut of Oats. 252. Maple Sugar and Syrup.
253. The Germination of Seed Corn.
254. Cucumbers.
255. The Home Vegetable Garden.
256. Preparation of Vegetables for the
Table.
257. Soil Fertility.
260. Seed of Red Clover and Its Impurities. 263. Information for Beginners in Irrigation. 264. The Brown-Tail Moth.
266. Management of Soils to Conserve Mois- ture.
269. Industrial Alcohol: Uses and Statistics. 270. Modern Conveniences for the Farm Home. 271. Forage Crop Practices in the North- west.
272. A Successful Hog and Seed-Corn Farm. 274. Flax Culture.
Citrus 275. The Gypsy Moth.
277. Alcohol and Gasoline in Farm Engines. 278. Leguminons Crops for Green Manuring. 279. A Method of Eradicating Johnson Grass. 280. A Profitable Tenant Dairy Farm. 282. Celery.
284. Enemies of the Grape East of the Rockies.
286. Cotton Seed and Cotton-Seed Meal. 287. Poultry Management.
288. Non-saccharine Sorghums.
289. Beans.
291. Evaporation of Apples.
292. Cost of Filling Silos.
293. Use of Fruit as Food.
295. Potatoes and Other Root Crops as Food. 298. Food Value of Corn and Corn Prod- ncts.
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CLASSIFIED BUSINESS DIRECTORY.
299. Diversified Farming. 301. Home-Grown Tea. 302. Sea Island Cotton.
303. Corn Harvesting Machinery.
304. Growing and Curing Hops. 306. Dodder in Relation to Farm Seeds.
307. Roselle: Its Culture and Uses.
310. A Successful Alabama Diversification Farm.
311. Sand-Clay and Burnt-Clay Roads. 312. A Successful Southern Hay Farm. 313. Harvesting and Storing Corn. 318. Cowpeas.
321. The Use of the Split-Log Drag on Roads
322. Milo as a Dry-Land Grain Crop. 324. Sweet Potatoes.
325. Small Farms in the Corn Belt.
326. Building up a Cotton Plantation.
328. Silver Fox Farming.
330. Deer Farming in the United States. 331. Forage Crops for Hogs in Kansas 332. Nuts and Their Uses as Food. 333. Cotton Wilt.
337. New England Dairy Farms.
338. Macadam Roads.
339. Alfalfa.
341. The Basket Willow.
344. The Boll Weevil Problem.
345. Some Common Disinfectants.
346. The Computation of Rations.
347. The Repair of Farm Equipment. 348. Bacteria in Milk.
349. The Dairy Industry in the South.
350. The Dehorning of Cattle.
351. The Tuberculin Test of Cattle,
354. Onion Culture.
355. A Successful Poultry Farm. and Dairy
357. Methods of Poultry Management.
358. Primer of Forestry. Part II.
359. Canning Vegetables in the Home.
361. Meadow Fescue: Its Culture and Uses.
362. Conditions Affecting the Value Hay.
of
363. The Use of Milk as Food.
364. A Profitable Cotton Farm.
365. Northern Potato-Growing Sections.
367. Lightning and Lightning Conductors.
368. Bindweed, or Wild Morning-glory.
369. How to Destroy Rats.
370. Replanning a Farm for Profit.
371. Drainage of Irrigated Lands. 372. Soy Beans.
373. Irrigation of Alfalfa.
375. Care of Food in the Home.
377. Harmfulness of Headache Mixtures.
378. Methods of Exterminating Texas-fever Tick. 379. Hog Cholera. 380. The Loco-weed Disease.
382. The Adulteration of Forage-plant
Seeds.
383. How to Destroy English Sparrows.
385. Boys' and Girls' Agricultural Clubs.
386. Potato Culture on Farms of the West. 387. Preservative Treatment of Timbers.
389. Bread and Bread Making.
390. Pheasant Raising in the United States. 391. Economical Use of Meat in the Home. 392. Irrigation of Sugar Beets. 393. Habit-forming Agents. 394. Windmills in Irrigation. 395. Sixty-day and Kherson Oats. 396. The Muskrat.
398. Use of Commercial Fertilizers in the South.
399. Irrigation of Grain.
400. Profitable Corn-planting Method.
401. Protection of Orchards from Frosts. 402. Canada Bluegrass; Its Culture and Uses.
403. Construction of Concrete Fence Posts.
404. Irrigation of Orchards.
406. Soil Conservation.
407. The Potato as a Truck Crop.
408. School Exercises in Plant Production.
409. School Lessons on Corn.
410. Potato Culls as a Source of Alcohol. 411. Feeding Hogs in the South.
413. The Care of Milk and Its Use.
414. Corn Cultivation.
415. Secd Corn.
417. Rice Culture.
420. Oats: Distribution and Uses.
421. Control of Blowing Soils.
422. Demonstration Work on Southern
Farms.
423. Forest Nurseries for Schools.
424. Oats: Growing the Crop.
426. Canning Peaches on the Farm.
427. Barley Culture in the Southern States. 428. Testing Farm Seeds.
429. Industrial Alcohol: Manufacture.
431. The Peanut.
432. How a City Family Managed a Farm. 433. Cabbage.
434. Production of Onion Seed and Sets.
436. Winter Oats for the South.
437. A System of Tenant Farming.
438. Hog Houses.
439. Anthrax.
440. Spraying Peaches.
441. Lespedeza, or Japan Clover
442. The Treatment of Bee Diseases.
443. Barley: Growing the Crop.
444. Remedies Against Mosquitoes.
445. Marketing Eggs Through the Creamery.
446. The Choice of Crops for Alkali Land. 447. Bees.
448. Better Grain-Sorghum Crops.
449. Rabies or Hydrophobia.
450. Some Facts About Malaria.
452. Capons and Caponizing.
453. Danger of Spread of Gypsy and Brown- Tail Moths.
454. A Successful New York Farm. 455. Red Clover.
456. Our Grosbeaks and Their Value.
458. The Best Two Sweet Sorghums. 459. House Flies.
460. Frames as a Factor in Truck Growing. 461. The Use of Concrete on the Farm.
462. The Utilization of Logged-Off Land. 463. The Sanitary Privy.
464. The Eradication of Quack-Grass.
466. Winter Emmer.
467. Chestnut Bark Disease.
468. Forestry in Nature Study.
470. Game Laws.
471. Grape Propagation, Pruning, Training.
472. Farming in Central New Jersey.
474. Paint on the Farm.
475. Ice Houses.
476. Dying Pine in Southern States.
477. Sorghum Sirup Manufacture. .
478. Typhoid Fever.
480. Disinfecting Stables.
481. Concrete on the Live-Stock Farm.
482. How to Grow Pears.
483. Thornless Prickly Pears.
484. Spotted Fever.
485. Sweet Clover.
487. Cheese in the Diet.
488. Diseases of Cabbage, etc.
489. Two Imported Plant Diseases.
490. Bacteria in Milk.
492. Fungous Enemies of the Apple.
493. English Sparrow Pest.
494. Lawn Soils and Lawns.
495. Alfalfa Seed Production.
496. Raising Hares and Rabbits.
498. Texas-fever Tick.
500. Control of the Boll Weevil. 501. Cotton Improvement. 502. Timothy in the Northwest.
503. Comb Honcy.
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Concrete
Concrete is made by mixing together Portland cement, sand and stone (or gravel). Various proportions of each are used, depending upon the use to which the concrete is put. About half an hour after mixing these materials together, the mass begins to stiffen, until, in from half a day to a day, it be- comes so hard that you cannot dent it with the hand. By a month the mass is hard as stone-indeed, harder than most stones. The best way to buy cement is in cloth sacks. Manufacturers charge more for cement in cloth sacks, but allow a rebate for the return of the empty sacks. A bag of cement weighs 95 pounds, and four such bags make a barrel of 380 pounds.
It is important that your stock of cement be kept in a dry place. Once wet, it becomes hard and lumpy, and in such condition is useless. If, how- ever, the lumps are caused by pressure in the storehouse, the cement may be used with safety. Lumps thus formed can be easily broken by a blow from the back of a shovel.
In storing cement, throw wooden blocks on the floor. Place boards over them and pile the cement on the boards, covering the pile with a canvas or a piece of roofing paper. Never, under any circumstances, keep cement on the bare ground, or pile it directly against the outside walls of the building.
Do not use very fine sand. If there is a large quantity of fine sand handy, obtain a coarse sand and mix the two sands together in equal parts; this mix- ture is as good as coarse sand alone.
Sometimes fine sand must be used, be- cause no other can be obtained; but in such an event an additional amount of cement must be used-sometimes as much as double the amount ordinarily required. For example, in such a case, instead of using a concrete 1 part ce- ment, 21/2 parts sand and 5 parts stone, use a concrete 1 part cement, 11/4 parts sand and 21/2 parts stone.
Besides being coarse, the sand should be clean. The presence of dirt in the sand is easily ascertained by rubbing a little in the palm of the hand. If a little is emptied into a pail of water, the presence of dirt will be shown by the' discoloration of the water. This can be discovered also by filling a fruit jar to the depth of 4 inches with sand and then adding water until it is within
an inch of the top. After the jar has been well shaken, the contents should be allowed to settle for a couple of hours. The sand will sink to the bottom, but the mud, which can be easily recognized by its color, will form a distinct layer on top of the sand, and above both will be a clear depth of water. If the layer of mud is more than one-half inch in thickness, the sand should not be used unless it is first washed.
To wash sand build a loose board platform from 10 to 15 feet long, with one end a foot higher than the other. On the lower end and on the sides nail a board 2 by 6 inches on edge to hold the sand. Spread the sand over this platform in a layer three or four inches thick, and wash it with a hose. The washing should be started at the high end and the water allowed to run through the sand and over the 2-by-6- inch piece at the bottom. A small quantity of clay or loam does not injure the sand, but any amount over 5 per cent. does.
Great care should be used in the selection of the stone or gravel. The pebbles should be closely inspected to see that there is no clay on their sur- face. A layer of such clay prevents the "binding" of the cement. If neces- sary, stone or gravel may be washed in the same way as above described for sand. Dust may be left in the crushed stone without fear of its inter- fering with the strength of the cement, but care should be taken to see that such dust is distributed evenly through the whole mass, and when dust is found in stone, slightly less sand should be used than ordinarily. As to the size of stone or gravel, this must be de- termined by the form of construction contemplated. For foundations or any large thick structure, use anything from 1/2 to 21/2 inches in diameter. For thin walls use 14 to 1-inch stone. The best results are obtained by the use of a mixture of sizes graded from small to large. By this means the spaces be- tween the stones or pebbles are reduced and a more compact concrete is ob- tained. Moreover, this method makes it possible to get along with less sand and less cement.
Water for concrete should be clean and free from strong acids and alkalies. It may be readily stored in a barrel
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CLASSIFIED BUSINESS DIRECTORY.
beside the mixing board and placed on the concrete with a bucket.
, If you are at all in doubt about the purity of the water that you contemplate . using, it would be well to make up a block of concrete as a test, and see whether the cement "sets" properly.
For ordinary work a very satisfac- tory concrete mixture is 1 part of Port- land cement, 21/2 parts of clean sharp sand, 5 parts of broken stone. In heavy foundation work, the quantity of cement can be considerably less. The important thing is to have the sand and cement thoroughly mixed, and to use only clean sand. Use only as much water as necessary. It is not well to work con- crete in freezing weather.
.
Cold Storage Without Ice
Why not have a cold storage room somewhere on the farm? Winter apples may be kept in such a place until spring, thus avoiding the necessity of market- ing the fruit at unprofitable times. A Pennsylvania farmer has such a place built in one part of his barn-a double- walled, double-doored, paper-lined space wherein he stores many hundred bushel crates of selected fruit. He says that the main essentials are to keep out heat and frost from the room. On cool nights he leaves the doors open, shut- ting them again when the sun begins to warm things up in the morning-the idea being to use cold air instead of ice for reducing the room's temperature. He aims to get the temperature in the room as low as possible without freez- ing the apples, and then hold it there. Night air is cheaper than ice, he says, and about as good.
How to Make and Use a Fireless Cooker
A saver of time, fuel and labor is the fireless cook stove, which can be made at home, absolutely without ex- pense, and, though not adapted to all kinds of cooking, answers well for food that requires long, slow cooking to soften tissues, bring out flavors and conserve the juices, such as stews, pot roasts, soups, cereals, rice, tapioca, dried fruits, vegetables, etc. It consists of a kettle of agate or tin, inclosed in a box with insulating material between them to pre- vent the heat of the kettle from escap- ing. Food brought to the boiling point over a fire, and inclosed, still boiling, continues to cook. This is the whole
principle. Choose a kettle with tight- fitting lid and a box large enough to allow six or eight inches of insulating material. Line the box, bottom, sides and hinged-on lid with stout packing paper, or several thicknesses of news- paper. Make a firm, cylindrical shape to fit easily around the kettle and fasten a circular bottom to it. This might be of asbestos paper, or paper soaked in alum water and dried. Then no matter how hot the kettle there would be no danger of scorching. Fill the bottom of the box with packing, which can be of cotton, wool, ground cork (in which im- ported grapes are packed and which grocers are usually willing to give away). Hay will answer, but does not pack so closely as these. Pack hard to a depth of three inches, place the cylinder, con- taining the kettle in the middle, and pack tightly around it, even with the top. The insulating material can be covered neatly with cloth, or a thin board with a round hole in the middle. A thick cushion will insulate the space between this and the lid, which must be fastened down tightly. If desired to cook several things at once it is best to have two or three such cookers, as the box should not be opened after the food is put in, except to reheat. Some persons prefer using a sort of double boiler, the inner kettle, containing the food, being placed in a larger one, partly filled with hot water. In this case the water in both kettles must be actually boiling. An additional vegetable can be put in the outside kettle, or water kept hot in it for dishwashing.
Ready-made cookers can be bought, but are rather expensive. Some of these will also bake and roast by means of thick disks of concrete which must be made very hot on the stove, then put under and over the kettle containing the food. The idea might be applied to the home-made cooker by heating soapstone griddles. These might be heated at the same time with a large iron pot. The meat or chicken, which should be sea- soned, can be put in a kettle, a hot disk put in the bottom of the pot, the kettle set on this; the other disk put on top, then put the lid on the pot and bury in the cooker. The pot, however, should be inclosed in asbestos paper to avoid pos- sible ignition. It would be interesting for each housekeeper to experiment and invent improvements on the central idea. The time required for cooking vegetables varies according to their age and fresh-
12
177
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CALHOUN COUNTY
ness, so only the approximate time neces- sary can be given. There is little danger of their being overdone, or at least in- jured by long cooking, and if under- done it is always possible to take out the kettle, reheat, and return to the cooker, or if needed quickly, to finish on the range.
It is not worth while to use the cooker for food that takes but a short time to cook, such as corn, spinach, young peas, asparagus, etc., since the water for these must be brought to the boil anyhow, they can as well be cooked on the stove. Do not place the kettle next the flame but always have a lid under it.
POTATOES
Five minutes over fire, an hour in the box. Potatoes must not be left overtime in box or they become watery.
RICE PUDDING
Mix together in the kettle 1/2 a cupful of rice, a quart of milk, a tablespoonful of butter, 1/2 a cupful of sugar, a little salt and grated nutmeg. Boil on stove five minutes, in cooker six hours.
BREAD PUDDING
Soak 1/2 a pint of bread crumbs in a pint of milk, add a beaten egg, 2 table- spoonfuls of sugar and a pinch of salt. Beat with a spoon; heat on the stove till just short of boiling, stirring all the time. Put in the cooker an hour and serve with vanilla sauce.
CHICKEN FRICASSEE
Disjoint a chicken, roll in flour and brown in a little fat; as the pieces brown pack them in the kettle, and make some gravy in the skillet. Put this and a little water to cover the chicken. Boil twenty minutes, then put in cooker over night.
BOILED HAM
If wanted for 6 o'clock dinner, put ham weighing six pounds in kettle at 9 a. m. Cover with cold water and bring to a boil ; boil briskly fifteen min- utes. Put the lid on the kettle when it begins to boil and don't take it off till it is taken out of the hay box, in which it should be put while still boil- ing. , At 2 o'clock take out, boil up again, put in a few cloves and 2 or 3 peppercorns. At 5.30 take out, skin, put in a pan, fat side up, stick in a few cloves, sprinkle slightly with sugar and plentifully with bread crumbs and bake in the oven till well done.
ONIONS
Of moderate size, boiled ten minutes . on the range, should be tender after four hours in cooker.
STRING BEANS
Cut off the strings and slice down the middle; give five minutes over the fire, four hours in cooker.
CAULIFLOWER AND YOUNG CABBAGE Five minutes over fire, five hours in cooker.
Cereals started over the fire at sup- per time and placed in the box should be ready for breakfast with just re- heating. Half a cupful of cereal poured into three cupfuls of boiling water, with a teaspoonful of salt is about the pro- portion.
A fireless cooker can be used for things to be kept cold as well as hot. Ice cream, if frozen, then packed in a kettle with ice and sunk in the box will not melt, and butter if put in it cool and hard will keep in the same condition, as the air is practically excluded.
BOSTON BAKED BEANS
Soak 2 cupfuls of beans in cold water a whole day. At supper time drain, cover with fresh water, put over the fire and simmer slowly for half an hour; pour off the water, scrape a 1/4 pound of salt pork, cut off a slice and push it down through the beans to the bottom of the pail; score the rest and put, rind side up, in middle of the beans. Mix a teaspoonful of salt, a tablespoon- ful each of sugar and molasses, just a dust of mustard, a half teaspoonful of baking soda and a cupful of boiling water. Add enough more water to come to the top of the beans. Cover, and boil ten minutes; then put in cooker. In the morning reheat for ten minutes, re- turn to the box and about half past five in the afternoon take out, sprinkle a tablespoonful of sugar over the top. leave off the cover, put in hot oven for half an hour.
POT ROAST
Season the meat with salt and pepper. brown on all sides over a flame, and put in a stone jar, dry, no water whatever. Cover tightly. Put the jar in a kettle of hot water. Boil fifteen or twenty minutes. Place in a cooker for six hours. Even tough meat becomes tender and the juice at the bottom is very rich.
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CLASSIFIED BUSINESS DIRECTORY.
SPRAYING FORMULAS
1
FUNGICIDES .- Bordeaux mixture is made by taking three pounds of sulphate of copper, four pounds of quicklime, fifty gallons of water. To dissolve the copper sulphate, put it into a coarse cloth bag and suspend the bag in a re- ceptacle partly filled with water. Next, slake the lime in a tub, and strain the milk of lime thus obtained into another receptacle. Now get some one to help you, and with buckets, simultaneously pour the two liquids into the spraying barrel or tank. Lastly, add sufficient water to make fifty gallons. It is safe to use this full-strength Bordeaux on almost all foliage-except, perhaps, on extra tender things, such as watermelon vines, peach trees, etc. For these it is wiser to use a half-strength mixture.
FORMALIN .- This is also called for- maldehyde, and may be purchased at drug stores. Its principal use is to treat seed potatoes to prevent "scab." Soak the whole seed for two hours in a mixture of one-half pint formalin and fifteen gallons of cold water; dry the seed, cut, and plant in ground that has not recently grown potatoes.
BORDEAUX COMBINED WITH INSECT POISON .- By adding one-quarter pound of Paris green to each fifty gallons of Bordeaux, the mixture becomes a com- bined fungicide and insecticide. Or, instead of Paris green, add about two pounds of arsenate of lead. The advan- tages of arsenate of lead over Paris green are, first, it is not apt to burn foliage even if used in rather excessive quantities; and, second, it "sticks" to the foliage, etc., better and longer.
INSECTICIDES .- ARSENATE OF LEAD .- This is the best insecticide for chewing insects, and is for sale by seeds- men. Use about two pounds in fifty gallons of water.
WHITE HELLEBORE .- This, if fresh,
may be used instead of Paris green in some cases-worms on currant and gooseberry bushes, for instance. (It is not such a powerful poison as the ar- senites, and would not do so well for tough insects such as potato-bugs.) Steep two ounces in one gallon of hot water, and use as a spray.
FOR SUCKING INSECTS .- Now we come to another class of insecticides, suited to insects which suck a plant's juice but do not chew. Arsenic will not kill such pests; therefore we must resort to solutions which kill by contact.
KEROSENE EMULSION .- One-half pound of hard or one quart of soft soap; kero- sene, two gallons; boiling soft water, one gallon. If hard soap is used, slice it fine and dissolve it in water by boiling ; add the boiling solution (away from the fire) to the kerosene, and stir "or violently churn for from five to eight minutes, until the mixture assumes a creamy consistency. If a spray pump is at hand, pump the mixture back upon itself with considerable force for about five minutes. Keep this as a stock. It must be further diluted with water be- fore using. One part of emulsion to fifteen parts of water, is about right for lice.
CARBOLIC ACID EMULSION .- Made by dissolving one pound of hard soap or one quart of soft soap in a gallon of boiling water, to which one pint of crude carbolic acid is added, the whole being stirred into an emulsion. One part of this is added to about thirty-five parts of water and poured around the bases of the plants, about four ounces per plant at each application, beginning when the plants are set out and re- peated every week or ten days until the last of May. Used to fight maggots.
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