USA > Michigan > Gazetteer of the State of Michigan, in three parts with a succinct history of the State, from the earliest period to the present time with an appendix, containing the usual statistical tables, and a directory for emigrants, &c > Part 5
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The eastern coast of Lake Michigan is more regular, but exhibits a continued line of barren sand, covered occasion- ally with pine and some other evergreens, and extending sometimes, but rarely, several miles from the shore. The most prominent features are frequent sand hills, or bluffs, rising often from one hundred to two hundred and fifty feet high. The " Sleeping Bear" is a noted curiosity of this kind. (See Third Part.)
The northern coast of Green Bay and Lake Michigan is, 5
50
GAZETTEER
RIVERS AND LAKES .- COAST .- DEPTH.
in general, barren, consisting, in the main, of pine ridges or naked calcareous rocks.
The Peninsular coast of Lake Huron has generally high and gravelly banks, some of it rocky, exhibiting frequently, primitive boulders of very large dimensions, especially north of Saginaw Bay. These may be seen likewise in great numbers at the bottom of the lake, at a great depth, near the coast. The Highlands of Sauble, which extend a con- siderable distance along and above Saginaw Bay, are seen from the lake, covered, like the coast, with firs and ever- greens.
The southern shore of Lake Erie, in part, presents a rock bonnd, inhospitable appearance, not greatly unlike what has heretofore been mentioned, but it may be remark- ed that all these outward appearances have proved very in- correct indices to the condition of the interior country.
Wild fruits of different kinds are found on all these coasts. Juniper and strawberries, red and black sand- cherries are found on the islands and shores of Lake Hu- ron, in the greatest abundance. The latter grow to the size of the common tame cherry, and have a sweet, deli- cious taste.
The rocky shores and uniform transparency of its wa- ters, render it probable that the bottom of Lake Superior is of rock. From like indications, partial soundings, and other signs, the same is inferred of Lake Huron. The bed of Lake Michigan is of both rock and sand. The foul, turbid state of Lake Erie, when ruffled by a gale of wind, is conclusive evidence of a muddy bottom, even where it is not proved by soundings. St. Mary's strait, and some parts of the strait of Detroit, have a rocky bottom.
The depth of the three larger lakes has been the subject of speculation. It is generally said, though incorrectly, that they are " unfathomable !"*
* That is, some suppose there is no bottom, and others, that it can- not be ascertained. Is not this word, (unfathomable,) a reproach, when applied to any tangible object ? The use of this and like terms, which indicate impossibility or impracticability, implies a listlessness, a want of perseverance, disreputable to the cause of sci- ence, so worthy of being cherished. If the sounding of a lake or of the hidden recess of the ocean do not bring up a pearl ; or if the circumnavi- gation of the globe, or the discovery of the poles do not produce immedi- ate golden treasures, it may add those facts to science, which, indirectly,
51
OF MICHIGAN.
RIVERS AND LAKES .- TRANSPARENCY, COLOR AND TEMPERATURE.
Lakes Superior, Michigan and Huron, have been put down at 150 fathoms, till more recently, discoveries have doubled that depth, placing it at 300 fathoms, or 1,800 feet. Their depth below this is uncertain. A trial to this depth is said to have been made at the entrance of Saginaw Bay in Lake Huron, without reaching the bottom. No soundings are found in either Huron or Michigan, 15 miles from shore. Lake Erie is comparatively- shallow. The deepest water found in this lake is opposite and be- tween Long Point and the town of Erie, Penn. Here the water has been found 60 fathoms, or 360 feet deep. The average depth of this lake is 25 or 30 fathoms, 150 to 180 feet. The average depth of Lake St. Clair is only 20 feet.
The transparency, color and temperature of the waters are somewhat remarkable. Their great transparency is univer- sal ; in fact, it is, in a great measure, common to the waters of a large section of this north-western region, extending westward, sufficiently far to include many of the subsidiary streams of the Upper Mississippi. Either the soil, from which these waters arise, or the waters themselves, possess a defecating principle, by which they are purged of all ex- traneous matter. If they are rendered turbid by the occur- rence of storms, or any other cause, they become perfectly pure by the intervention of a calm. Not so with the Mis- sissippi. Whatever clarifying property may exist in any portion of her original waters, it loses its power when they come in contact with the turbid Missouri, and they roll on, dark and thick, till they meet the gulf.
The color of the water is, in general, a light green, hav- ing different shades in different lakes. In Green Bay, and the northern part of Lake Michigan, it is a dark bottle green, and in the southern part of the lake a light green, similar to Lake Erie and the lower straits. Huron has a dark aspect with a green tinge of a slighter shade, and cor-
may accomplish the same thing ; or if not, it will satisfy an inquiring, restless mind; nay, millions of such minds, which is equivalent to wealth itself. The discovery of apparently trifling facts and principles, (as we have had occasion to observe in another place) though unfore- seen at the time, are often productive of the most momentous results to science. It is to be hoped, that future exertions may yet be directed to elicit every geographical or scientifical knowledge respecting the largest lakes in the world.
52
GAZETTEER
RIVERS AND LAKES .- TEMPERATURE .- PREVAILING WINDS.
responds with the representations of Lake Superior. The color appears brightest when the surface is ruffled, and lience, from the reflection of light, in conjunction with their transparency, is inferred the origin of the phenomenon. Objects can be discerned from ten to fifteen feet below the surface. Huron is the most transparent, and it is said that, in a calmn, a piece of white paper may be plainly seen upon the bottom, 100 feet below the surface.
A very agreeable scene is remarked to occur in some parts of this lake during a calm. The tranquil waters, at one view, appear like a vast transparent mirror, and at an- other, by a kind of optical deception, the vessel seems sus- pended, as it were, in the heavens, the objects on the sur- face are reflected, the depth is magnified, and the spectator is left to indulge in all the pleasing or sublime reveries his imagination can suggest, till the enchantment is broken by the light breeze or the gale which often succeeds.
The temperature of the deeper lakes is always cool. The heat of summer warms the surface, while a few feet below it is excessively cold. Lakes Huron and Superior are the coldest. A bottle sunk to the depth of a hundred feet, and filled, in mid-summer, feels, when brought to the surface, like ice water, and the water produces a like sensation to the teeth when drank. Even the surface of Huron is so cold, that a person falling into it at any season, and remain- ing the shortest possible time, is thrown into violent chills.
The course of the prevailing winds varies according to the position of the lake. On Michigan and Huron, they are northerly and southerly, and on Erie, north-easterly and south-westerly ; the former prevailing in spring, and the latter in autumn. They generally blow lengthwise with the lakes, and are heaviest from the north.
There are but two serious obstructions to the navigation of these waters from Lake Superior to the Gulf of St. Law- rence, viz : the Falls of Niagara, which entirely puts an end to navigation, and the Falls (in Fr. Sault) of St. Mary which it partially interrupts. There is a prospect of the latter's being remedied by the construction of a ship canal around them. (See Sault de St. Marie and St. Mary's river, Third Part.) The present and safest route in sail-
53
OF MICHIGAN.
RIVERS AND LAKES .- FOGS .- GALES.
ing is to keep the American shore of Huron and Erie, both in going and returning, taking the Wisconsin coast in pass- ing up Michigan, and the Peninsular coast in coming back. Lakes Michigan, Huron, Erie and St. Clair, are generally plain sailing and of easy navigation.
. navigation.
The strait of St. Mary, to the falls, is the most difficult to navigate. Its common sailing channel is a perfect laby- rinth, devious and circuitous, around islands and sunken rocks, passing cross-channels and shoals. It is ascended by a south-east wind only, and then none but the most ex- perienced can-pilot a vessel either up or down it. The en- trance to Green Bay through the Traverse islands and the strait of Mackinac, is difficult to navigate without experien- ced pilots. Lake Superior is reputed to be of dangerous Lake Huron, on the contrary, is not only the most safe, but likewise the most agreeable to sail, but from Mackinac, on the northern shore of the latter, as far as Cape Head, it is precarious and dangerous from the multi- tude of shoals, sunken rocks, or sunken islands, just under the surface of the water. There is a dangerous shoal eight miles N. E. of Bois Blanc Island. The northern shore of Lake Erie is to be avoided. Long Point projecting from it is especially dangerous.
Of the other obstructions to navigating these waters, may be ranked the fogs. These are of frequent occurrence in summer, in the northern parts of Huron and Michigan, in Green Bay, St. Mary's strait and Lake Superior, and are truly frightful to the mariner and canoe-man, and particu- larly so in the strait and in the latter lake. These fogs are so dense as to obscure the nearest objects. They general- ly commence of a sudden, and often last three or four days, sometimes amid heaving billows and pointed breakers.
The lakes are subject to gales, noted for being more dan- gerous than what occur on the ocean. The violence of the tempest is to be attributed perhaps to their great eleva- tion, giving the winds a more ample range, raising waves less mountainons, but rougher than the ocean. As a rea- son for this, has been assigned by some, the shallowness, limited circumference, and less specific gravity. This might be the operating cause on Erie and Ontario which are
5*
54
GAZETTEER
RIVERS AND LAKES .- CURRENTS .- HARBORS.
more shallow, but will not apply to the three deeper lakes as it regards specific gravity.
The meteorological phenomena of currents and coun- ter currents, is of common observation on land, and is well understood. A beautiful illustration of the fact some- times occurs upon the lakes. When a vessel is driving be- fore a wind, a counter wind strikes the vessel above or below, and stops her progress ; her superior sails are filled from one quarter, while her inferior ones are filled from an- other ; and thus she stands suspended by the action of two opposite and equal forces. It is probably attributable to these currents and counter-currents, acting vertically in- stead of horizontally, that have produced the sand dunes lining the eastern coast of Lake Michigan.
The great extent of lake coast of the two peninsulas fur- nish a less number of good harbors than perhaps would be expected, yet there are several that afford a good shelter from storms. In Lake Erie they are found exclusively on the southern coast. These are at Silver Creek, Dunkirk, Portland Harbor, Erie, Conneaut, Ashtabula, Fairport, Cleveland, Black River, Vermilion, Huron, Sandusky, Maumee and Put-in-Bay Islands. Plaisance Bay furnishes a good lee for common lake vessels at all times, as likewise the port of Havre.
Between Saginaw Bay and Mackinac, there are six har- bors that make a good shelter. The first is Tauwause Bay. This is a recess on the west margin of Saginaw Bay, from one to two miles wide at the entrance, with two or three fathom water, perfectly land locked, 60 miles from the mouth of Saginaw river, and 20 from the Charity Islands. Thunder Bay furnishes another good harbor. Thunder Bay Islands have a good shelter for vessels on the south and west side, 40 or 50 rods from shore, in five or six fathom water. These two last are a protection from the northern winds only. About twelve miles from Thunder Bay is a lee, between Middle Islands and the main land, in three or four fathom water, good against the northerly winds. Presque Isle and False Presque Isle furnish each a good shelter from storms, the former of which in all kinds of weather. In all these, the shore is bold, and the coun- try around has a sterile and forbidding aspect.
55
OF MICHIGAN.
RIVERS AND LAKES .- FISH.
The harbor of Mackinac is capacious and deep, perfect- ly land locked, and equal to the best on the lakes. There are several on the Lake Michigan coast, as at St. Helena Island, 12 miles from Mackinac ; a second at Big Beaver Island, 20 or 30 miles from the latter. Little Traverse Bay makes- an excellent port.
The Grand Traverse Bay, the two Fox Isles, and the Manito Isles, each have good harbors. One hundred and forty miles from the latter is the mouth of Grand river, which is a superior port to any on this coast. The har- bor at St. Joseph is good at times, but requires improv- ing. On the southern shore of Lake Superior, there are two superior natural harbors. These are Grand Isle and Chegoimegon Bays. The former is situated on the Upper Peninsular coast, immediately north of the northern extrem- ity of Green Bay, and it is reputed to be " equally capa- cious, deep, and as completely land locked as any in Amer- ica." The other is located on the Wisconsin coast.
Fish .- The numbers, varieties, and excellent quality of the lake fish are worthy of notice. It is believed no fresh waters known, can in any respect bear comparison. They are, with some exceptions, of the same kinds in all the lakes. Those found in Lake Superior and in the strait of St. Mary, are of the best quality, owing to the cooler tem- perature of the water. Their quantities are surprising, and apparently so inexhaustable, as to warrant the belief, that were a population of millions to inhabit the lake shores, they would furnish an ample supply of this article of food, without any sensible diminution. There are several kinds found in Lake Superior, and some of the most delicious quality, that are not found in the lakes below; as the sis- quoelle and muckwaw, which grow to the weight of eight or ten pounds. The salmon and some others are found in Ontario, but not above the Falls of Niagara.
The following is a very partial list of a few of the promi- nent varieties. The sturgeon, white fish, mackinac and salmon trout, muskalunjeh, pickerel, pike, perch, herring, white, black and rock bass, cat, pout, eel pout, bull-head, roach, sun fish, dace, sucker, carp, mullet, bill fish, sword fish, bull fish, stone carrier, sheep's head, gar, &c. &c.
The lamprey eel is found in all, but the common eel is
56
GAZETTEER
RIVERS AND LAKES .- FISH.
found in neither of the lakes, nor in any of their tributaries except one.
The weight to which some of these attain is not exceed- ed by any other inland fresh waters, without it is the Mis- sissippi. The comparative weight of several varieties is here given.
Sturgeon,
Greatest weight. 120 lbs.
70 lbs.
Trout,
60
10 to 20
Muskelunjeh,
40
10 " 15
Pickerel,
15
5 " 6
Mullet,
10
White fish,
2 " 3, at the Sault 4 and 5.
Perch,
1
Roach, 1
Black Bass,
2 " 3
Bill fish,
6 " 8
Cat fish,
10 " 20
The supply of food they furnish to the inhabitants on the margin of the lakes, and in the interior, is not inconsidera- ble. Besides, their superior quality has produced a mar- ket in the adjacent States, which makes them a considera- ble article of export. The demand seems to increase in proportion to the increase of western population. In 1830 the amount put up was estimated at 8,000 barrels, ($5, per barrel) valued at $40,000. According to an estimate of one of the most respectable houses in Detroit, which is extensively engaged in the fish trade, we find both the value and amount of the article much enhanced. The following is the statement for the year 1836 :
No. barrels white fish and trout taken at Whitefish Point and above, on Lake Superior, and in St. Mary's strait,
2,000
Do. do. at Mackinac,
1,200
Do. do. at River Aux Sauble, Green Bay, 600
Do. do. at other points on Lake Huron,
500
Do. do. on Detroit river, (about)
4,000
Do. do. pickerel, at Rapids, Fort Gratiot,
2,500
Do. do. herring, 66 600
Average.
Whole number of barrels, 11,400
57
OF MICHIGAN.
RIVERS AND LAKES. - FISH.
The average price of white fish and trout, per bar- rel,
$11,00
Pickerel, Herring,
7,00
Total value of fish, $115,500.
The estimated amount for 1837 is somewhat increased. No. of barrels of white fish and trout taken on Lake
5,500
White fish taken at Fort Gratiot,
100
Pickerel
3,400
Herring 66
600
White fish taken in the Detroit,
2,500
White fish and trout taken on Lakes Huron, Michi-
gan and Strait of Mackinac, 800
Total number of barrels, 13,500
Average value of white fish and trout per barrel, Pickerel,
$10 00
8 00
Herring,
6,00
Total value of fish on the Lakes and Straits, $125,800.
Of the above, one fourth part is supposed to have been consumed within the State, one half shipped to Ohio for the western and southern market, and the balance to New York and Pennsylvania.
They seem to be more numerous some years than others, and likewise of better quality. The kinds best for pick- ling and export, are the white fish, Mackinac and salmon trout, sturgeon, and pickerel. The fisheries at which these are caught, are at Mackinac, at several points in each of the four straits, the south-east part of Lake Superior, at Saginaw Bay, and Fort Gratiot. The mode of taking them is in seines and gill nets, and the trout with hooks.
The ordinary class of French, whose inclinations and improvident habits of life favor the pursuit, is engaged in this occupation. At Mackinac, St. Mary's Strait, and Lake Superior, the fishermen are composed of French, Indians, and Mestizoes or half-breeds. They are generally em- ployed by capitalists, and in Lake Superior by the Ameri- can fur company, furnished with necessary outfits, and paid
8,00
Superior by the American Fur Company, about Quantity taken in St. Mary's,
600
58
GAZETTEER
ELEVATION OF THE LAKES .- RECESSION, FLUXES, REFLUXES, &C.
in such goods as their necessities may require. The fish trade is consequently made lucrative.
Elevation of the Lakes. The height of the lakes above the ocean, is ascertained to a proximate exactness, only, where results have not proceeded from precise admeasure- ments. The following shows the fall from Lake Superior to the Atlantic.
Feet in.
Feet in.
" The mean fall St. Mary's Strait from Pt. Iroquois, 60 m. (exclusive rapids) 12 10 Sault (falls) St. Mary, as ascertained by Gen. Gratiot, Eng'r. Dep't., 3-4 mile 22 10
4 0 Sugar Island rapids -
Nibish rapids at Sailor Encampment Isle 5 0
Total St. Mary's river, or Lake Superior elevated above Lake Huron, - - - -
44 8
Lake Huron. St. Clair rapids, 1-2 mile 1 6
do. do. 1 3-4 " 1 6
St. Clair Straits, as ascertained by Mr. Lyon, 30 miles, 4 inches per mile 10 0
Lake St. Clair. Detroit Strait, 25 m.,
- 6 3 3 inches per mile, -
Lake Erie above the Atlantic, as ascer- tained by N. Y. Canal Commiss'rs .* 560 0
Lake Huron above the ocean - - - 579 3
Total elevation of Lake Superiort
- 623 11"
Reckoning Lake Superior, at 1800 feet only, its bottom would be, at least, 1176 feet below the tide water of the ocean.
Recession, flures, refluxes. &c. There are signs existing in the vicinity of the lake shores, to warrant the belief that their waters once covered a much greater surface than they
* Surveys of the Southern Rail Road route show Lake Michigan to be 14 feet above Lake Erie.
+ Encyc. Americana,
59
OF MICHIGAN.
RIVERS AND LAKES .- FLUXES, REFLUXES, &C.
now do. These signs consist of ridges of various eleva- tion, running parallel, but at various distances from the shore. Instances are reported upon living authority, which go to show that some portion of the bottom of Lake Erie, near the shore, has either been thrown up, or else the wa- ter has receded, and left firm land. Around Saginaw Bay, especially at its head, there is a ridge 25 feet in height, run- ning parallel with the shore, and at a distance from it of four miles, bearing the aspect of having been the true coast of the bay. There are ten or twelve similar but smaller elevations between it and the water. This is but one of the many like occurrences of the kind observed around the lakes. There is a like appearance of recession of the inte- rior lakes.
The banks of the Saginaw river are generally very low, and the country around exhibits evidences of former inundation. The large quantity of shells found near this river, seven miles from the bay, four feet below the surface, may be noticed as another indication. Lake St. Clair has similar appearances, and the traditionary accounts of the Indians say, that it was, and very recently too, much larger than at present. These, in part, may perhaps be account- ed for, though not very satisfactorily, from the action of the water during their high and continued elevations, which sometimes occur, and which will soon be noticed.
The belt of level timbered land, of a width sometimes exceeding 25 miles, lying much lower than the interior table lands, and encompassing the Peninsula, has before been alluded to. This evidently was in a state of inunda- tion at a period long anterior to the formation of the ridges. just mentioned.
This emersion of land, or recession of water, finds a ? parallel on the Atlantic coast, though referable perhaps, to a different cause. There is a belt of land upon the At- lantic and Gulf of Mexico, extending from Chesapeak Bay through the Southern States, Texas, and Mexico, to Central America, of a width, in the Southern States, of from 70 to 100 miles, lying between the coast and a high ridge, that, at some period, probably formed the bed of the ocean : and it has been thought by some, that at the same period, the waters of the Gulf of Mexico cov- ered a considerable portion of the Mississippi valley. But
60
GAZETTEER
RIVERS AND LAKES .- FLUXES, REFLUXES, &C.
whether that theory be correct or not, the waters could not have extended to the Peninsula, with its present elevation, as the highest ridges of the Southern States are much below the lowest lands in Michigan.
Near the mouth, and at two or three other points on the Ohio, there are indications of the former existence of moles of considerable height, believed by some of respectable au- thority, to have supported an immense inland sea, or seas, now extinct, covering more or less of the North-Western States, and that the present lakes are its remains. Similar indications are to be seen below Newburg, on the Hudson ; at Middletown, on the Connecticut; and in various parts of the continent,-facts common to the country, and well known to geologists. In view of this supposition, it may be inferred that the waters of this sea covered the borders of the Peninsula.
But again, there are evidences that lead to the belief, that the ancient outlet of the upper lakes was in nearly a direct line with the St. Mary's strait, through Manito lake and Gloucester bay, by way of Lake Sincoe and several small lakes to Lake Ontario, a little above Kingston. A com- munication already exists through this line, from Glouces- ter bay to Lake Ontario. And it is supposed by appear- ances to be the traces of a strait now extinct, existing ante- rior to the time, when, from some unknown cause, the wa- ters burst the barrier between Lake Huron and Erie, through the present strait. Some have supposed an ancient communication between Lake Michigan and the Missis- sippi, by the course of the Illinois river; and beside the indications favoring this, the waters of the Illinois and the Lake are said now to communicate, when the former and its tributaries are at their greatest height. Where the barrier existed that caused the inundation of so consider- able portion of country, will necessarily continue to be in a measure uncertain, without some further exploration in reference to it.
We offer no opinion upon any of these points. Whether the volume of the lake waters is less than formerly ; wheth- er they are receding, or the bottom emerging, is not deter- mined. There appear to be some signs of a wasting away of the beds of the several straits, but whether sufficiently to account for the tumefactions on the coasts or not, they
61
OF MICHIGAN.
RIVERS ALD LAKES .- FLUXES, REFLUXES, &C.
do not account for the recent mysterious appearance of the Lake Erie bottom; nor is the latter satisfactorily accounted for by the common supposition of alluvial accumulations or deposites from the lake.
At different points on the lakes, their inlets, and straits, has been observed an apparent tide. From their frequent and irregular fluctuations, different opinions have obtained, favoring the supposition, of a horal, diurnal, annual, and even septennial flux and reflux of their waters ; all of which have more or less plausible evidence to substantiate them. The phenomena are notorious, but the motive principle is invisible, and after all the speculations on the subject, the reasonings and assigned causes, when examined together, prove mostly inconclusive and unsatisfactory.
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