USA > Michigan > Ionia County > Memorials of the Grand River Valley > Part 3
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I returned by what was called the " Northern Route;" found Pontiac a little village. They were building a mill at Fenton. Elisha Williams was the only man in Shiawassee county, and Scott in Clinton. So it was a day's journey from house to house. From Scott's there was a trail direct to Lyons, through the dense timber, 25 miles, and another road by Portland, where there were a few families. I well recollect finding very com- fortable quarters in the tavern at Lyons, kept by Judge Lyon. One day, coming from Ionia, I was intending to stop at Mr. Edward Robinson's, but, from the snow drifted on the open Indian fields, lost my track, and turned back to a shanty where some men were building a block house, which was afterwards the tavern of Ada. They very kindly invited me to stop with them, saying they could put my horse in the shed,
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and could give me lodgings; and thus I should be the first traveler stopping at a public house in that place. One of these persons was Mr. Burnett. I traveled all winter on horse-back. Although the sleighing was good, I did not trust its continuance.
My business had led me to travel much up and down the Grand River country, and I had become more acquainted with the people elsewhere than at Grand Rapids. But in the spring of 1837, I sat down at Grand Rapids to make it my permanent home. I boarded at the Eagle, then kept by our late Mr. Moran. The three brothers Nelson were boarders, and had a store opposite. Being a little suspicious of Indian sugar, they used to bring sugar from the store for their tea and coffee. Charles Taylor had his shop over their store, and Horsford
Smith had a store further down the street. Waterloo was then rather the business street. There were two warehouses on the river below, and two at the foot of Monroe street. Uncle Lonis Campan's mansion is still a part of the Rathbun House. Richard Godfrey had a like house where the Catho- lic church was built (the sad fate of that house is elsewhere noted), and Myron Hinsdill lived where is now the Morton Honse. There was also a building on the north side of Mon- roe street, in which Drs. Willson and Shepard had their office. and Esquire Beebe (I think) his justice office. Dea. Page, with his three beautiful daughters. Mrs. Richmond one of them, and Judge Almy, lived where Butterworth & Lowe's machine shop now is; and A. D. Rathbun had a shanty office near Bronson street.
Though there were but few houses, there were a good many people. There were the brothers Lyman, and Edward Emerson. and then, or soon after, one Fuller. I cannot say precisely who were in Grand Rapids, as they were coming in fast, and all full of hope for a continuance of good money-making times that would make all rich. The citizens were friendly and social; a stranger was kindly welcomed, and all soon be- came acquainted. Quite a number of us who well recollect those good old times, are still here.
There were many others. Mr. Thompson was the first
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keeper of the Bridge Street House, and then Gen. Withey. Win. Richmond was clerk of the Kent Company. Mr. Cal- der had a store near Mr. Coggershall's; Ed. Emerson, one on Canal street; and many French people had followed Uncle Louis-the Godfroys, Mr. Marion, and many mechanics, who, after the change of times, went to St. Louis and other parts.
The settlers out of the village were Judge Davis, and the Reeds out by the lake; Alvan Wansley, the Messrs. Guild and Burton, by the Fair Grounds; Esquires Chubb and Howlett towards Grandville; and then, over the river, Mr. E. Turner, Capt. Sibley, the Messrs. Davis, and afterwards, Mr. Scribner.
Others had gone upon the lately purchased Indian lands, and soon many more came in, and went upon the unsurveyed lands north of the Grand River.
There was no grist mill this side of one near Gull Prairie, nor was there need of any; for the little grain raised, whether wheat or oats, was bought up for horse feed, at $2 per bushel. There was a saw mill about where Sweet's Hotel now stands; one where the plaster mill stands, at Plaster Creek, and the In- dian Mill, on Indian Mill Creek. They did put into the last named mill a run of granite stones to crack corn, and the like. At a later day, coming in possession of that property after the mill had disappeared, I removed these stones to the front of my house, where they are an historical horse-block.
The Indians still lived on the west side of the river, and planted large fields of corn. They had a little church and a priest -- the simple-hearted and good Vizoski. Horace Grey and his brother Lyman were also here; and that spring Horace and I went down the river to Grand Haven in a kind of keel- boat, sailed by Capt. Sibley, and propelled by the current. We walked down the lake shore to Muskegon, where were then living only Mr. Lasley and Mr. Trottier (called Trucky), In- dian Traders. Martin Ryerson, the last time I saw him, told me he was then clerk of Trottier, at $8 per month. On our return up the river, we came as far as Yeomans (Lamont) in a little " dng-out " canoe, as big as a clam-shell. Stopping over night, we concluded that it would be easier to foot it up through the woods than to paddle the canoe around by the river. On
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our way, who should we meet but Capt. Victor Harris, who said he had come out to the Grand River on my recommenda- tion of the country when he met me in Detroit.
That spring there was great activity in business here and all over the country, and an expectation of a continuance of the good times. But, as unexpected as a sudden thunder-storm, a change came over the country. The New York Legislature passed a law authorizing the banks to suspend specie payment : and Gov. Mason convened ours for the same purpose. At that extra session they not only authorized the banks then in opera- tion to suspend, but also snch banks as should go into operation under the general banking law lately passed; which resulted in the killing of 40 wild-cat banks.
When I left Detroit in April, all was hope and expectation of as good a season for speculation as the preceding one; but when there again in June, all the plats of choice lands and villages were removed from the walls of the hotels and public places, and all faces had so changed that one could hardly rec- ognize his acquaintances; and it was taken as an insult for one to speak of land operations. But we were so deep in the woods that we did not seem to realize. for some time, the great change that had come over the rest of the world.
Among the Grand Rapids' enterprises, a steamboat had been bought at Toledo to rum on the Grand River. But on the way it was wrecked on Thunder Bay Island, of Lake Iu- ron. But the engine was saved and brought around, and Mr. Richard Godfrey built a boat, which made its first trip down to Grandville on the 4th of July. We had quite a celebra- tion; an oration on the boat, and great rejoicing generally on that account.
Though I met no one in the Grand River Valley -- ho had ever seen me before I came into the State, still, strange .. . they nom- inated and elected me to the Legislature, to represent the Grand River district, consisting of Ottawa, Kent, Ionia and Clinton counties. Almy and some others were aspirants, and had their friends, still, my nomination was almost unanimons. Capt. Stoddard (captain of the steamboat), a brother-in-law of Mr. Bostwick, was the Whig candidate; a worthy man, who lived afterwards at Charlotte.
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There were then the two taverns-the Bridge Street and the Eagle. The convention was held at the Bridge Street House, and I was boarding at the Eagle. In the evening who should arrive but the Hon. C. C. Woodbridge, the Whig candidate for Governor-out canvassing. Ile was acquainted with the landlady, Mrs. Moran, and she introduced me to him. He inquired of me for his friends-Messrs. Henry, Bostwick and Stoddard. So, after he had taken his supper, I showed him where they lived. The gentlemen being out, I introduced him to the ladies. The next morning, on meeting Mr. Trowbridge, he expressed, as well he might, his surprise at seeing in the backwoods such a circle of accomplished ladies; and, also, that a political opponent should have been so civil to him.
There were but five places of holding the polls-there being but five organized townships in the four counties. In Kent county, Byron and Kent; in Ionia county, Ionia and Maple; and in Clinton county, De Witt. The election was held at the Bridge Street Hotel. All the voters of Ottawa county came up on the steamboat, and, in a line, marched to the polls. I was elected by a large majority, and in January, 1838, went to Detroit on horseback. The going was very bad, for there had been heavy rains and snow. At Detroit I put up at the Na- tional, now the Russell House.
The great questions before the Legislature that winter, were the location of the railroads, and the amount to be expended on each road. For the improvement of the Grand and Maple Rivers, $30,000 was appropriated, which was applied to im- proving the harbor at Grand Rapids, clearing out the river channel at the foot of Monroe street, and removing the sunken logs all the way up the river to Lyons. Several towns were organized. In OTTAWA, Ottawa, Georgetown and Talmadge: in KENT, Grand Rapids, Paris, Walker, Plainfield, Ada and Vergennes. Some titles were given in the military line : Gen. Withey and Col. Finney. Rix Robinson was made one of the five internal improvement commissioners. There was a law passed authorizing Kent county to borrow money to build a court house; Squire Abel and Judge Davis were the super- visors of the county, and Squire Abel came in to borrow
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money from the school-fund to build the said court house. In his hurry, he got the money, much of it the bills of the failing wild-cat banks; and I fear the county has some of it still on land.
The troubles in Canada resulted in bringing many settlers to the Grand River Valley.
I must say a word about banking at Grand Rapids. There was the Grand River Bank, of which Almy was president and Richmond cashier. It was in the office of the Kent Co., on Bridge street. Mr. Coggershall and some others became dis- satisfied, and undertook to establish another bank, to be located in the Campau plat part of the village. They got a room over Smith & Evans' store, about where the west part of Ince's Block now is; and, after much urging, Lonis Campan consented to be president, and Sim. Johnson to be cashier. They named it the " People's Bank;" got plates engraved, and some bills struck off, and even put in circulation. The capital stock was $100,000. So, under the law, it required $30,000 in specie to start on. Being all ready, as they claimed, they sent for the Bank Commissioner, Digby V. Bell, to come, make examination, and put the bank in legal operation. But instead of finding the required amount of specie, he found but $6,000; and they proposed to make up the rest by a draft of Mr. C'oggershall, of $20,000, on a broker in New York, and one of Mr. Ketchum, on Chicago, for the balance. Mr. Bell did not see the propriety of the arrangement, and said it would not do; so what next was to be done? They not only had bills out, but they had received deposits; and the specie shown, I sup- pose, was deposited to be drawn out as soon as the bank was in operation. They were very auxions to go on in some way, and so far satisfied the commissioner that they could, that he agreed to give them a month for the purpose. But then it was to be on the condition that the means on hand should go into the hands of a receiver, for the security of the bill-holders and de- positors. When it was talked over who that man should be. they could agree on no one but myself. I did not at all like any connection with the matter, but, after much urging, con- sented to it. It was to be kept as it was for the month, except
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to pay out to such cash depositors as should claim their money, and to redeem their bills then in circulation. Without any formality Mr. Bell handed me the keys of the safe, and said there was about such an amount of specie in this safe; and bills, and what he had passed upon as specie equivalent, in the other.
You will see now why I speak so particularly of this "Peo- ple's Bank." The next morning, on opening the safe contain- ing the paper deposits, I found missing some $2,000. I felt it rather an awkward predicament. But soon Mr. Campau came in, and said there were two keys to that safe, and he thought Mr. Cook had the other one. After a time, Judge Morrison came in, and said that while Mr. Ball was at dinner yesterday, he took the missing money from the safe, and car- ried it to the cashier, Mr. Johnson, who was sick at his room. More of the money was soon drawn out by depositors and bill- holders; and when the month came round they were no better prepared to go into operation than before, and I had to keep charge still longer. But, wishing to go East, Mr. Bostwick took charge of what there was left, and I went back to Troy, having been absent two years, instead of a few months, as I expected when I left there.
After visiting for a time, I picked up my law library, rather scattered through the offices of the city, and returned to Grand Rapids, to the surprise of some; for it had been reported that I was not going to come back, otherwise they said I should have been again nominated for the Legislature. As it was, they had just put in nomination C. A. Finney. I was after- wards, in 1840, put in nomination for the Senate, to be beaten by II. P. Bridge, the opposing candidate.
When I first came to Grand Rapids, Louis Campan was said to be worth $100,000; but when the change of times came, he made an assignment of all his property for the bene- fit of his creditors, except the Old Congregational Church, which he deeded to his mother. He had built that church for the Catholics, and they held meetings in it for some. It was to be paid for by the bishop; but from some disagreement, he did not take it. After a time she sold it to the Congrega-
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tional Society, reserving, however, the iron cross, the same that has since surmounted the stone church. I drew the deed from Mrs. Campan. Mr. Ballard was present, and urged not to have the cross excepted in the deed, saying that he could worship under the cross. But she would not consent. When they wanted to take it down, men were sent up to remove it. They built a staging, and tried to lift it out of the timber in which it stood. When they found they could not, they sawed it off. Owing to a defect in their arrangements, it fell to the ground, and in falling, carried with it one of the men, & Mr. Post, who, of course, was instantly killed. At the time I was standing on the steps of the National Hotel, with D. V. Bell, who remarked of the man being killed: "It has only knocked the shell off." This was by no means said in a thoughtless manner, but to express his religious views, that the body was not the real man.
Mr. Campan had crected a number of other buildings, among them the Eagle Tavern, the yellow store, and a dwell- ing for his brother Touissant, on the corner where Luce's Block now stands. He had started Touissant in business, and becoming surety for his goods, probably occasioned the neces- -ity of his making an assignment. Still he had considerable left after all his debts were paid. His brother Antoine, C. P. Walker and Judge Martin were his assignees.
Times became very dull in our valley, and there was very little increase in the population. In Grand Rapids, there was a decrease. Emigration all went past us to Illinois and Wisconsin. There was no money, and our merchants, who tried to do business, had to trust the farmers on the strength of their growing crops. But the wheat, when raised, brought but three shillings a bushel, so there was a general failure of all business. We had enough to eat, but little to wear; and if we could get money enough to pay postage, it was all we expected. All that was done, was by exchange. Judge Morrison says, that in building a pretty good house he paid out but one dollar. All that was done, was by exchange or ·dicker."
Times were decidedly dull; and to fill up the time, we used,
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in the evenings, to attend the Debating Society, of which C. P. Walker, Mr. Ballard and Charles H. Taylor were the great- est talkers. And then we used to get up hops at the " Bridge Street " and "National; " had John Ellis for musician. This same Ellis has "hung up his fiddle and his bow," and long flourished as a successful mill-owner in Alpine, where he now lives, retired from business.
Some settlers had gone on the government lands north of the river, before they were surveyed. In some cases, the lines cut their improvements badly, and then there was some clash- ing among the claimants. But it was agreed that a committee of each township should settle these claims.
When the public sale of these lands came on, in August. 1839, the great question was, how to raise money to pay for their lands, for they had expected to have made it by their farming. Though told there was no danger, they were so fear- ful that speculators would bid off their lands, that they went to Ionia with clubs to fight them off. But the speculators did not come, as they had had enough of land speculation in 1836. Still, some of these squatters borrowed money at 100 per cent .. of Mr. Richmond-acting for Gov. Hunt, of New York-and paid for the lots, giving a mortgage on the same. It was a long time before some of these mortgages were paid; and those who let it pass, and did not buy, did much better, as you will see further on. But were not those hard times with us?
Congress, in the session of 1841, granted to each of the new States in which there were government lands, 500,000 acres for internal improvements. The next winter our Legislature passed an act, accepting that grant, and authorizing the Gov- ernor, Mr. Barry, to make the selection, as Congress had authorized. Knowing that I was a woodsman, he wrote to me, asking me if I would select those lands. Not having much business on hand, I answered that I would, but wished his instructions, or at least, opinion, as to what class of lands it would be best to take-whether pine or farming. Much to my dissatisfaction, he said he should leave it entirely to my judgment. Still, I accepted the appointment, and prepared for the business. I went to the Land Office at Ionia, to pro-
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cure the necessary plats. Judge Lovell, who was then the Registrar, politely gave me every facility. Frederick Hall wishing to go out as an assistant, I employed him at twelve shillings a day; and I also took James D. Lyon, then a youth, as cook and camp-keeper. I was then boarding at Judge Lyon's, who kept the Bridge Street House, and I had been act- ing as agent for James H. Hatch, after Mr. Walker left. But Mr. Yale had come on with full power of attorney from Mr. Hatch, so I passed that business to him; purchased an Indian pony, tents, blankets, etc., and on the 20th of March, put into the woods-the ground being as fully settled as in mid-sum- mer.
Our first trip was up by the Wright settlement, and the west part of Alpine, where we found Coffee and Goding, they being the last settlers, three miles beyond any others. We then went on and encamped the first night on a creek near the north line of Wright. The next day, leaving Lyon to cook supper and see that the pony did not stray, Hall and myself ranged the woods far around to see the character of the land. keeping our reckoning by the surveyed lines and surveyor's marks, returning weary at night, ready for supper, and to wrap ourselves in our blankets. This was repeated from day to day, moving our camp as occasion required. In that trip we explored all that splendid timbered country in the east part of Ottawa county, down to the Grand River, along which were the only settlers. After some ten or twelve days we came in to get a fresh supply of provisions, and then went out again.
I had heard of prairie lands up on the Muskegon, so to see them I went out by the east part of Alpine, and there found Mr. Hills, three miles in the woods, making shingles; and his accomplished wife got us a dinner. Hills soon after died. ILis sons were then young, and probably did not expect all the good fortune they have since realized. We encamped by Camp Lake, and the next diy reached Croton. There we found a saw mill, owned by a Mr. Peachim, who had pur- chased of Mr. Brooks, then at Newaygo. To my disappoint- ment, the prairies proved to be but thin-soiled pine plains. So we quit exploring in that direction, and struck through for
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the Flat River, coming out about at Greenville. There I found the country much more satisfactory-rich bur-oak plains and good pine timber. I there found Luther Lincoln, who, with his son, a boy of thirteen, were living a hermit life-the only inhabitants of Montcalm county. Still he seemed glad of company, and explored with us while in those parts.
There were in Otisco, Ionia county, Mr. Cook, Mr. Morse. and a few others; in Oakfield, Mr. Tower and sons, Mr. Davis and Mr. Crinnion; in Courtland, Mr. Bears and four or five other families; four families in Cannon; one in Grattan; but few at Plainfield, and none on the road from there to Grand Rapids.
There was a good deal of feeling and some alarm among our people about the selection of so large a quantity of land in one county, under the belief that they would be kept out of the amarket by the State, or held at a high price. So, out of re- gard to those feelings, I made a trip down the lake shore. We went ont on the trail to Muskegon, where there was then one saw mill; crossed over the head of the lake by boat, swim- ming my pony; then by a trail to White River. At the head of White Lake we found Charles Mears, the only settler north of Muskegon. He had a little mill on a small creek, and a small sloop to ship his lumber to Chicago. His men, with their boat, set us across the lake. It made the pony blow to keep his head above the water; but he weathered it, and we struck for the Clay Banks, and so kept along, finding a stray boat to cross the Pent Water, and went as far the Pere Marquette. We then returned, exploring some, back through the country; came to the outlet of the White Lake; forded it on the bar, and came to the mouth of the Muskegon, expecting means of crossing, so as to come to Grand Rapids. But there was no one there, and we had to go back round the north side, and en- camp. The next day some Indians carried us over to Muske- gon, and we returned on the trail in a rain, making rather an uncomfortable encamping. We made up our minds that our trip down the lake shore was one that invited no repetition for the pleasure of the thing.
I was instructed to make report of such lands as I had se-
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lected to the Land Office, and also to the Government. But thus far I had been looking generally, and had not reported any. On much reflection, I made up my mind that, as the State was deeply in debt for building railroads, and the State warrants, as the State obligations were called, were in the hands of many people all over the State, and the State had no means of meeting this indebtedness but these lands, the Leg- islature would be pressed on the subject, and would pass a law putting the lands into the market at such a price that they would sell, and be purchased by the settler. I therefore de- termined to make the selections from the nearest unsold lands up and down the Grand River. I afterwards made my explo- rations with that view, and soon made report of selections. I continued my explorations until the 4th of July, and then again went out in the fall. I was in the woods in Bowne. when that fall of snow of more than two feet came on the 18th day of November. The old settlers will well recollect that winter, 1842-3, which lasted till some time in April-five months. As I was about the country that fall, I noticed a great number of hogs, and on asking the owners what they were going to do with them, they said, "let them run." They had lived through the previous winter on acorns, and if killed now the pork would not pay for the salt. Quite three-fourths of them were salted in the snow, and also some of the cattle.
Hall and Lyon had quit me some time in the spring, and I then employed a Dutchman by the name of Thome as camp- keeper, and carried on the business without further help. He has a fine farm in Alpine, bought with his wages.
I selected some lands, also, on the south side of the river, in Gaines and Byron, and some in Ottawa, in Jamestown, and Statesland, thus named from this fact. The quantity selec- ted and reported was nearly 400,000 acres; the balance being selected by other parties in other parts of the State. Mine were mostly farming lands, but some pine.
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