USA > Michigan > Ionia County > Memorials of the Grand River Valley > Part 34
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The churches were the Congregational, the Methodist, the Episcopal. and the Dutch Reformed. The Congregational was the only one that had the air of a church. It stood at the head of Monroe street, between that and Fulton street. It was a pretty, modest structure, in good architectural propor- tions. When the society built their edifice at Park Place, they sold the old lot; the building was remodeled into stores, and soon went up in smoke. The Episcopal church stood at the corner of Division and Bronson streets. It was a mere tem-
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porary concern, until the society could afford to build. It after- wards did service for the Baptists in the same way, and finally was removed. The Methodist church was a better building, but still of modest size. It stood where their present building stands. The Dutch Reformed church was an unfinished stone building, which was afterwards sold for business purposes.
The Catholics had no church edifice. They had a house which was fitted up for a chapel at the corner of Monroe and Ottawa streets. In 1847 they built a stone church on the ad- joining lot; and the same year the chapel, which was also the residence of the priests, was burned; two women-the mother and sister of one of the priests-perishing in the fire. This was really the most soul-harrowing event that ever transpired in Grand Rapids. The sting of it is, no effort was made to save them, it being supposed that they had got out, and were at a neighboring honse. They could have been rescued un- harmed, had it been known they were in the building.
The Baptists had an organization, but no place of worship. They held their meetings in the temporary court-house on the common.
The streets were none of them graded, and there were side- · walks only on Division, Monroe and Canal streets; those, with the exception of a part of Monroe street, simply a track the width of two planks. On Monroe street each had placed some- thing for a sidewalk before his premises.
The business places were mostly on Monroe street and the south end of Canal street. Monroe street was generally occu- pied from Ottawa street. Business centered at what is now Campan Place-then " Grab Corners." The march of improve- ment has thrown open and made attractive, what was a nui- sance and an eye-sore-the result of the rivalry of the original platters of Grand Rapids and Kent. To make the improve- ment, several buildings were torn down and the space left open. The store furthest up Monroe street was where Luce's block now stands. Turning into Canal street, on the east side were one story wooden buildings, about half way to Bronson street. Away up Canal street, at the foot of Bronson street, were on each side a double stone store, both of which have since been cremated.
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A wing-dam, running half way across the river, served to divert some of the water into a canal of small capacity. The dam was built across the river and the canal enlarged, as at present, the next year. On this canal were three saw-mills, two large grist-mills-one still standing, the other gone up-two small machine shops, a tannery, clothing works and carding machines. On Cold brook was a larger tannery, and further up a turning shop. Lyon's salt works were in operation, doing a small business. They were given up as profitless after a year or two.
Two steamboats, as large as those now used on the river, were plying below the Rapids, and pole boats, soon replaced by small steamboats, were doing the carrying above, as far as Lyons.
As it regards the appearance of the village and its surround- ings, there was a primitive air to the whole. Enterprise had been checked, and had not recovered from the shock. Capital was wofully lacking. The streets of the village were simply horrible. Canal street was little better than a quagmire. From Bridge street down it has been filled to the depth of from five to fifteen feet. It was not then much of a business street. West of Division street and north of Monroe street was a fine . musical-frog pond, and between that and Canal street was the beautiful "Prospect Hill," both of which have disappeared.
A good open bridge was across the river at Bridge street, the one built by Scribner and Turner. A good one story school-house was on Fulton street (burned two years after- wards). There were two other school-houses-temporary con- cerns. There was nothing on the hill except along Fulton street.
At that time the medical profession was represented by Drs. Shepard, Platt, Bowman and Slocum. Drs. Winslow and Wilson had recently died, and Ellis had moved to Detroit. Dr. Slocum died in 1847, and the same year Dr. Hollister (since Prof. H. of Chicago), came in. Bowman died in 1859.
The lawyers were Messrs. Abel, Moore, Bement, Rathbone, Ball, Yale, Church, Martin, Withey, Holmes and Miller. To their credit be it said, they are all alive (1875) but Abel, Rath-
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bone and Martin. One became chief justice of the State; an- other U. S. district judge; and a third, judge of the superior court. Abel died in 1872; Martin (chief justice) in 1868, and Rathbone in 1856. 1847 added three to the number-Messrs. Cole, Rood and Sargeant. Sargeant and Cole died young. They had just shown the material of which they were made; had fairly won their position, and proved their worth. Cole was a man of power; was second mayor of the city; a man of sterling honor; not brilliant, but deep. He died of small-pox, July 29th, 1855. Sargeant died in 1858-a man rising worth- ily to eminence.
The press, in 1846, was represented by the Eagle and Enquirer -- both modest weeklies. The Enquirer was owned by Charles H. Taylor and Jacob Barnes. Their office was a single room; their circulation about 300. T. B. Church was editor; Barnes was principal manager. They had some gov- ernment patronage, and Barnes, having " no incumbrances, " managed to live, and save a few pennies. Taylor was in the clothing business; was an aspiring politician, whom the people delighted to honor. Barnes was a modest man, who never sought political distinction.
The Eagle, whig in politics, was run by another young man -Aaron B. Turner, who was his own editor. His circulation was somewhat larger than that of the Enquirer, but the con- cern would not pay; and he was often compelled to suspend for want of funds. He was also a political aspirant, but was then on the wrong side to win; so he was compelled to print or starve. Believing in the perseverance of the saints, he per- severed. The political change in the State brought patronage to his paper-brought office and money to him. He has not now the cadaverons look that printers are supposed to have, but his fair rotundity seems to indicate that official standing, printing and roast turkey agree with him.
The hotel accommodations at the time were not only respect- able, but decidedly good. The National (now Morton) had a wide reputation. The Rathbun House was popular, and so were the Eagle and the little Michigan.
Trade was a round-about concern. The mercantile interest
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was represented by about a dozen general merchants; one drug store, two hardware stores, and eight or ten groceries. The stocks of goods were small-from $3,000 to $5,000-gen- erally bought and sold on credit. The Winsors and Roberts combined lumbering with their mercantile business. The other merchants-Kendall, Lyon, Lyman, Morrison, Finny, Pierce, Sinclair, Bemis, Evans, Noble, Rose & Covell, and Waring-did business as they could; getting some cash; trusting extensively, especially those who were carrying on such business as required the employment of others. As most of the business men had little capital, they were obliged to make arrangements with the merchants, to give orders on their stores, they themselves to pay when they got their returns. Of course, to do business in this way, goods must be sold at a high figure. "One per cent." was the ruling profit; that is one cent profit for one cent investment. Let us not censure the merchant for his high profits. It was the only way busi- ness could be done. It seems hard that the farmer must give that high price for his supplies, and pay in wheat at fifty cents a bushel. But it must be borne in mind that the merchant could not get his pay for a long time, with a fair chance of never receiving it at all. This way of doing business is sel- dom successful for the trader. All experience showed that, on the whole, it was slow accumulation, or, more likely, bank- ruptcy. The farmers who were trusted in this way are now thankful for the accommodation.
Grand Rapids had been a theatre of speculation. By refer- ence to the communication of Mr. Ball, it will be seen what were the ideas about ten years before, when lots were held at abont $50 per front foot. There was no such talk in 1846-7. During those years, some tranfers were made on Monroe and Canal streets. The two lots forming the corner, north of Lyon street, at its junction with Canal street, were sold for $400. A lot below Waterloo street, on Monroe street, with a a building on it, for $400; and a lot on the north side of Mon- roe street, nearly opposite, for $400. Lots on Division street, between Fulton and Bronson, were held at $200. Lots on the west side, from $10 to $25. On the hill, on Dexter Fraction,
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they were offered, but not sold, for $10. On Bostwick's Ad- dition, they were sold for $25.
Outside of the village there was no fanciful value to the land. Kendall's Addition was bought for $47 per acre; and the lot east of it offered for $20. Three miles ont of town the best land was considered worth from $3 to $4; held loosely at that.
The fact was, a great share of the property had non-resident owners. They had become sick of their investment, and were anxious to get rid of it, letting it be sold for taxes. If you had any " property " you could always sell it, if you would take land or lots for pay; these being hardly considered val- uables. O, what offers we all refused in those days! It makes us look blue when we recollect them; when we see, if we had only been able to look ahead, we might now be rolling in our wealth, How sad is the thought, " It might have been."
The village of Grand Rapids had three public and three pri- vate schools. School-house No. 1 was on Fulton street, on the north side, below Prospect street. It was a very respectable one-story building, which would accommodate two teachers and abont 80 scholars. It was taught by W. W. Weatherby. assisted by a lady. The next year it was taught by a Mr. Marsh; an able man; a powerful writer, and skillful teacher. Mr. Marsh left his mark on Grand Rapids. He first broached the idea of a union school; and selected the site for it. It was the energetic representations of Marsh and of Mr. Wood. then a merchant, but afterwards a teacher in the Union School, that aroused the public to do something for their schools. John Ball fell in with the idea of Marsh and Wood; and the result was, an awakening of public sentiment and an accom- plished fact. Marsh died soon after. The last teacher in No. 1 was Thomas Cumming, who had returned from the war in Mexico.
No. 2, " up in Kent," was in a hired building, and was kept by Zimri Burnham. There was also a small school on the west side. No. 1 was burned in 1849.
At that time the private schools completely overshadowed the public ones, and the teachers in the public schools had no enviable position in consequence. In the village there was
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little interest taken in the district schools, while the private schools were strong in the public sympathy.
The Academy was partly in the court house on the public square, and partly in the cottage building at its N. E. corner. It was under the charge of Franklin Everett, assisted by his wife. Thomas Cumming and Miss Elizabeth White. This Mr. Cumming was a recent graduate from Ann Arbor; a young man of the highest promise. A few years afterwards he was acting governor of Nebraska, where he was one of the dom- inant spirits. He died, still a young man.
The Catholics had an academic school at the corner of Monroe and Ottawa streets, under the charge of Mr. Cock.
A young ladies' school was on the opposite side of Monroe street, taught by a Miss Janes. This school was given np in the fall of 1846, Miss Janes having concluded she would rather be the wife of Mr. William Parks than the principal of a young ladies' school. Many are there now among the matrons of the Valley, who affectionately recollect their loving teacher, Miss Janes. She left her impress on hearts; and became an honored portion of the history of the Val- ley.
There were no facilities in the Grand River region for higher education, except what were afforded by the three above-mentioned schools at Grand Rapids; and of these the people liberally availed themselves. Two of these certainly were good ones. A reference to the title page of this book will show why an opinion is withheld as to the merits of the other.
Outside of the village of Grand Rapids, the schools were as good as could be expected. The people, in general, felt an in- terest in them, and supported them as well as they could. Most of the houses were cheap structures (they could afford no other); and from necessity, cheap teachers were employed. Schools were mostly maintained in the districts six or seven months in the year-generally taught by the students of the high schools.
On the whole, it is to be recorded as a fact, that about the first thing the settlers, then generally with very little means,
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taxed themselves for, was to build a school house. A few of these school houses remain; while most of them have given place to elegant and costly buildings. But it must be borne in mind that it was more of an undertaking to build the first than the second. Time brought capital, and capital puts up fine structures. The first honses were built when a dollar was a hard thing to get hold of.
The people of the Grand River Valley are two removes from old Massachusetts. Their fathers moved to Western New York, and they-the sons-to Michigan. The first thing the colonists of Massachusetts thought of, was to build a church, or " meeting-house;" settle a "minister," and employ, as an humble dependent on him, a school-master to teach the chil- dren reading, writing, arithmetic and the catechism. In the schools were the " spelling-book class, the Testament class, and the Bible class." All was secondary to the church, and had reference only to that; as it is with our Sabbath schools of the present day.
New York secularized those sons of Massachusetts; so that in their minds the schools were not an appendage to the churches, but a part of the public. There, churches, instead of being the basis of society, were an outgrowth from the wants and desires of the people. Those built them who chose; but the schools were for the public to take care of. These grand- sons of New England, who came to the wilds of Michigan, brought with them the New York idea. "Build school-houses first," was the principle on which they acted. No dark corner was left where the school-house and school teacher were not. As a result, those raised in the Grand River Valley do not sign their names with a mark-no, not one of them.
The schools, at the time we are considering, it is true, were humble; but they were efficient. A view of the Valley will demonstrate the fact that the spirit of early times is the spirit of the present. In each city, village, hamlet or neighborhood the school-house and the school are the things dearest to the people. Go where you will, and look at the school-houses; you will not return and blush for the Grand River Valley.
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GRAND RAPIDS.
For the early history of the city, the reader is referred to the articles that have preceded. The Grand Rapids that was has been spoken of. The Grand Rapids of the present will show what has been done-jumping 30 years.
TOPOGRAPHY OF GRAND RAPIDS.
As the original characteristics of the ground are fast disap- pearing, it is considered that it will not be without interest to show what was the contour of the ground before man made it over to suit his purposes.
The west side, from the river to the bluffs, was mostly a level plain, covered with granite boulders, and diversified only by a marsh north of Bridge street, about half way between the river and the bluffs, and extending far to the north; and a shallow ravine below Bridge street. Some half mile below Pearl street bridge, near the river, were some Indian burial mounds.
On the east side, near the river, the land was lower; along where are Canal and Kent streets, somewhat marshy, kept wet by the springs from the hills above. Below Pearl street, the ground was mostly dry, but low, and deeply covered by water in times of flood. It was cut by a small brook from the east, mak- ing a little ravine. Still further south was a ridge of land, rising steep from the river, and descending more gently towards the east. This ridge will probably always remain sufficiently to show its general character and direction; though its north- ern end is doomed to partly disappear.
· An isolated hill began east of Canal street, about 150 feet north of Lyon street, and extended in a southeasterly direc- tion nearly to the head of Monroe street, or about half way between Ottawa and Division streets. Into the southern slope of this hill Monroe street was dug. The general height of
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this ridge was not far from the level of Division street. East of this ridge, commencing at the corner of Division and Mon- roe streets, and running northward beyond Lyon street, was a musical frog-pond. The low land east of the river ridge, in the south part of the town, was a peat-bog-it has been filled several feet-from that bog eastward the ascent was gradual: and the general contour of the ground has not been essentially varied by man; neither is it likely to be.
Commencing at the Union School House, and running north to near Cold Brook, the sand bluff was as steep as the earth would lie. To obtain the grade of Lyon street, it was cut to the depth of thirty feet. Above the bluff was nearly a plain; broken at the north by a wide ravine from Bridge street, descending by nearly an uniform slope to Cold Brook. Through this ravine La Fayette street has its course. The northern part of the sand bInff, near and beyond the reservoir. was broken by ravines. The same bluff presented a bold front towards Cold Brook. North of the reservoir, the cutting of the D. & M. Railroad was fifty feet.
A string of three islands, scarcely separated, extended down the river from Pearl street bridge; a part of the river channel was east of them. This channel was used by the river craft until about 1852. Steamboats landed their freight at about the junction of Monroe and Pearl streets, or where the building stands that breaks the line. The land north, where stands the hotel and most of it north of Pearl street is made land, where Wadsworth's mill and dam once stood. The jail is on " Island No. 1." Canal street, at its present grade (which probably will not be changed), is filled from four to fifteen feet between Pearl and Bridge street. Its greatest filling is at its southern end, which was a little bay of the river.
The marsh on the west side was drained this year (1875), and takes its place as dry land, ready to be built upon. The region along Waterloo street, and up the southern lowlands east of the ridge, are raised; or in process of being raised. The Cold Brook region is much filled, further than what has been men- tioned. The future observer will be able to see the general contour of the land occupied by the city, as it was before civ- ilized man began his labors there.
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GRAND RAPIDS STREETS AND THEIR ASSOCIATIONS.
The names of streets are often historical monuments. The persons who plat cities, or their additions, are allowed the priv- ilege of giving names to the streets. With them, in most cases, the names have associations. It may be only their fan- cy for an euphonions word, or the well-known name of a street. in some famous city. More commonly, the streets are named after some one whom it is intended to compliment, or whose memory it is intended to perpetuate. Again, a peculiarity in the situation of the street itself will give it a name. Grand Rapids has streets whose names belong to each of these classes.
Passing by those that are ostensibly imitative, or named from places or famous men, we will note those that have asso- tions connected with them, and where the association is not apparent.
Ferry-where the old Ferry was.
Fountain-from the fine spring by its side.
Spring-from its large spring.
College Avenue-When Geo. Kendall laid out his addition, there was the project of a college at Grand Rapids, and he de- voted grounds to it. The charter of a college was obtained. and the college started, but died.
Island-from the island at the foot of it; island no longer. The time will come when it will be merely historical that there was a string of three islands below Pearl street bridge; that the steamboat channel was between those islands and the east bank of the river; and that the landing was where now are the blocks of stores east of Pearl street bridge; that the jail is on an island.
Lock-At the head of the first canal was a " guard lock." This " guard lock " has its romantic associations. "The course of true love never runs smooth," was suggested by the romance of the "guard lock." Tradition, and not history, will pre- serve that romance.
Kent-Louis Campan laid out a village, and called it "Grand Rapids." Soon after, Lucius Lyon platted the land north of it, and called it "Kent." Each was intent on fixing the name of the embryo city. The name of the county was Kent, given
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in honor of Chancellor Kent, of New York. For many years, the village was spoken of in two parts-" Grand Rapids " and " Kent." The failure of the Kent Company, and the troubles about the property there, caused Kent to sink to be a depend- ency of Grand Rapids, and it lost the name. Kent was the portion west of Division street, and between Lyon and Bridge streets.
Many names will be recognized as those of the persons who platted the additions to the city, and to many they gave the Christian names of their children. It is not necessary to specify these.
Almy -- from Judge Almy.
Coit, Waldbridge, Grant, Ellsworth-from large owners of land in the region, but never citizens.
Bronson-tells us that such a man as Stephen Bronson once lived, who held that vexations "mortgage" given by Lucins Lyon on the Kent plat. He was a large land owner in Mich- igan; laid out the village of Kalamazoo and called it Bronson.
Oaks-from Charles Oaks, of Grandville historic memory.
La Grave-When Daniels laid out his addition, he named a street after his father-in-law.
Lyon-from the Hon. Lucius Lyon.
Williams-from Henry R. Williams, the steamboat man. Louis, Antoine-from Louis and. Antoine Campau.
With certain knowledge with regard to a few of the streets with Christian names, we note:
Rose-from the fair daughter of Thomas Sheldon.
Jonathan-so named by the Hon. Wm. A. Richmond in honor of his father. (Good boy.)
Charlotte -- name given by the Hon. E. B. Bostwick in com- pliment to his wife. (Gentlemanly husband.)
Wealthy-Given by Judge Morrison in compliment to his wife. (Do.)
In the absence of particular knowledge, we will suppose John street was named after John the Baptist, or another Baptist John, who came home from the army with a hole in his arm, and another in his cap.
Mary street-May mean Mary Magdalen, or any of the thousand pretty girls that bear that favorite name.
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De Lony -- Mr. De Lony Gunnison, it is to be hoped yon will recollect whose son yon are.
Gunnison-from Capt. Gunnison, of the U. S. Engineers. See biographical notice.
Penny-from Dr. Penny, a very learned clergyman, who for a time resided in the city.
Prescott-from the Rev. Francis Prescott.
To attach ones name to a street proves the desire to be re- membered. To have ones name so placed by the public is a real compliment-a distinction. We seek immortality, and dread oblivion. O, this being forgotten! how it haunts us all. After all, there is but one way of living after we are dead. Something must be done worthy of remembrance. How many of us have done that something! Oblivion-how it engulphs us!
CITY GOVERNMENT.
Organized May 20th, 1850. Henry R. Williams, Mayor; Leonard Bement, Recorder; Aaron B. Turner, Clerk; Amos Roberts, Charles W. Taylor, Lovel Moore, Dr. Joseph Penny, Isaac Turner, Aldermen; Alfred X. Cary, Marshal.
1851-Ralph W. Cole, Mayor; Franklin Everett, Recorder; A. Hosford Smith, Clerk; Abram W. Pike. Marshal; Amos Roberts, Martin L. Sweet, George Kendall, Win. C. Davidson, Loren M. Page, Aldermen; Wilder D. Foster, Treasurer.
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