USA > Missouri > Saline County > History of Saline County, Missouri > Part 13
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115
HISTORY OF SALINE COUNTY.
across the divide. This divide or passage is what is known as the Grand Pass, about a mile and a half long, from which the creek turns off in an easterly and southeasterly direction, and its waters do not reach the Mis- souri until they find it through the LaMine. During the unusual freshet of 1875, Salt Fork broke over at the lowest portion of this divide of the Grand Pass, and for several days a large part of the surplus waters of the creek flowed into the small lakes or ponds, with which the Missouri river bottom here abounds. No channel was cut, however, through the divide, and when the waters subsided, the bed of the creek and the Grand Pass resumed their former position, aspect, and relation to each other. By digging a canal thirty or thirty-five feet deep and about one hundred and fifty yards long, Salt Fork could be permanently turned into the Missouri river, at this point, and thereby cut off from all the rest of the county.
Davis creek, at the mouth of which the town of Brownsville is situated, is also one of the largest tributaries of Blackwater, but as it enters Saline from Lafayette at its southwest corner and enters Blackwater just at Brownsville, it runs but a short distance in the county. There are a vast number of smaller streams flowing into the Blackwater, Davis, Salt Fork and into the Missouri river, but scarcely important enough for especial mention here, except to state that, in almost every instance, no matter how insignificant, these streams are skirted with belts of timber.
Salt Branch, though no larger than many other streams in the county, is remarkable for taking its rise in the "Great Salt Springs," in Elmwood township, and from the extreme saltness of its waters, which enter Salt Fork, in Grand Pass township, about ten miles after it enters the county, and impart to it that saline character, from which it takes its name, “Salt Fork of Blackwater." Above the mouth of Salt Branch, in Grand Pass township, the waters of Salt Fork are sweet and without a trace of salt, while, below the mouth of Salt Branch, the water is so decidedly salty that stock having access to it never require to be salted.
TIMBER.
It being a prairie county, the timber of Saline is, of course, not so abundant as in many other counties, but there is sufficient for all the pres- ent wants of the people. In fact, the increase in the growth of timber has been much greater than the increase of the demand. With every year the demand for timber as fuel decreases, and that for coal increases; and when the coal fields of this county become systematically worked, the demand for wood as fuel will, in a great measure, cease. The origi- nal timber growth is almost entirely confined to the margins of the streams; but the streams are numerous, and there are but few points on the prairie where the distance to timber is more than four or five miles. Besides, since the prairies have all been put under cultivation, and the
116
HISTORY OF SALINE COUNTY.
prairie fires have ceased, timber has grown spontaneously and rapidly in many places, and now, wherever the spectator may locate himself upon the beautiful rolling prairies, splendid groves of timber will greet and rest his eye in every direction.
The timber growth of Saline county embraces most of the species com- mon to the temperate zone: Hickory, black ash, black and white walnut, oak of a dozen different varieties, cottonwood, red and white elm, syca- more, birch, buckeye, coffee-bean, linn, water-maple, hackberry, willow, pecan, wild cherry, etc., all grow spontaneously and abundantly. Here- tofore, as in all new countries, where timber is abundant, there has been a great wastage of the best timber, and millions of rails split from the best order of black walnut, oak, cherry, etc., are lying in the old-fashioned worm fences, rotting away, and the men who own them purchase their walnut, oak, or cherry furniture, from manufactories a thousand miles to the east of them.
In the fall of the year the vast wooded bottoms along the Missouri river, and most of the larger streams, abound in pecans, hickorynuts, and "mast" of nearly every kind. Wild grapes, summer grapes and fox grapes, flourish and bear luxuriantly in all the woodlands. The cotton- wood is the most common growth of all, perhaps-especially since the prairies have been settled. Wherever permitted to do so, in the last fifty years, groves of cottonwood have sprung up, and grown rapidly into tall timber.
SOIL AND PRODUCTIONS.
The soil of Saline county consists chiefly of a rich black loam, varying from twelve to thirty-six inches in depth, and gradually shades off into a yellow fine loam from ten to twenty feet in depth, which is a porous sub- soil, of the greatest advantage to the farmer, enabling him practically to defy the vicissitudes of the seasons. Saline has been often, and with more than usual justice, called "the garden of Missouri." There is no other county in the state that contains so large an area of rich and productive lands, and so small a percentage of waste lands. It is chiefly undulating prairie, the proportion of prairie to woodland being about as three to one-except the southeastern portion of the county, where the woodland exceeds the prairie, and some of the oldest and finest farms have been cleared from the virgin forest.
Whether for agriculture or for raising stock, Saline has few equals and no superior. The soil yields with marvelous bounty to the hands of the cultivator. Hemp has always been the western test for first-class soil, and previous to the war, when slave labor was employed, hemp was largely grown in this county. No county in the state contains so large an area of hemp land. Since the war, corn has become the chief staple, though the acreage of wheat has steadily increased, and it actually now
.
117
HISTORY OF SALINE COUNTY.
disputes with King Corn for the crown. The yield of corn is wonderful, averaging one year with another, the county over, as much as forty bushels per acre. In 1875, a premium having been offered for the best ten acres of corn grown in Saline, the average yield of the eighteen or twenty contestants was over one hundred bushels per acre, and the pre- mium ten acres averaged one hundred and twenty-four bushels to the acre. Seventy-five bushels to the acre is no unusual yield, and the farmer grumbles greatly if his farm yields him less than fifty bushels.
The yield of wheat varies from fifteen to forty bushels per acre, and all the other cereals, such as oats, barley, etc., make a rich and profitable return to the husbandman. In the eastern and northeastern portions of the county tobacco is successfully and profitably cultivated; but like hemp, its cultivation has fallen off since compulsory labor could no longer be obtained.
The cultivated grasses, such as Hungarian, millet, clover, etc., yield enor- mously, while blue grass springs up spontaneously and flourishes luxuri- antly wherever a spot of land ceases to be cultivated. The wild prairie grasses, of which there were many varieties, which once covered three- fourths of the county, are fast disappearing before the blue grass.
All the fruits that grow in the temperate climate, flourish in Saline, especially in the "loess" soil, which embraces about two-thirds of the county. Previous to the war comparatively but few orchards had been planted, but since that time, they have been set out upon almost every farm, and now there are apples enough grown to supply all of central Missouri. Apples, peaches, pears, cherries, nectarines, plums, etc., flourish everywhere in the county, but especially in the eastern and north- eastern portion.
The population of Saline county by the census of 1880, was 29,938. The number of acres of land in the county is 460,788, the assessed value of which in 1880 was $5,018,299. The number of town lots in the differ- ent towns was 11,266, assessed at $614,105; the number of horses, by the census, was 10,797, valued at $356,949-mules 3,999, valued at $180,577 -asses and jennets 94, valued at $4,675-neat cattle 26,174, valued at $417,965-sheep 20,847, value $31,582-hogs 49,909, value $98,537. Money, notes and bonds were held to the amount of $988,317, and all other personal property was valued at $662,353-making the total taxable wealth of the county in 1880, $8,400,269.
WATER.
Until recent years the farmers and citizens of Saline county have depen- ded almost entirely for water upon shallow, surface wells, and as a con- sequence the drinking water has been very inferior, and more or less impregnated with miasma. Scattered in different portions of the county there are some splendid natural springs, as, for instance, "Kiser's Spring"
118
HISTORY OF SALINE COUNTY.
near Kiser's bridge over Salt Fork, on the Marshall and Lexington state road, about eight miles west of Marshall. This is a large bold spring, gushing from the creek bluff in a stream as thick as a man's arm. It has never been known to fail, and for nearly half a century has supplied all the farmers in the vicinity with drinking and stock water. During the trying droughts of 1878, 1879 and 1880, when most of the surface wells and springs failed, the people of Saline have had their attention forcibly turned to deeply bored wells, and wind-mill pumps. At the average depth of one hundred feet, the river level-most excellent water is invari- ably obtained-cold, pure and free from any trace of miasmata.
CLIMATE, RAIN-FALL, ETC.
Saline county is situated on the 39th parallel of latitude, and between the 93d and 94th meridian west from Greenwich (or to give its latitude and longitude exactly, is situated between 38 degrees 52 minutes, and 39 degrees 20 minutes, north latitude-and between 15 degrees 55 minutes, and 16 degrees 30 minutes longitude west from Washington,) and its cli- mate may be called temperate, with occasional extremes of both heat and cold. The winters are usually about four months in length, from Decem- ber 1st to April 1st; they are sometimes mild and dry-sometimes mild and wet-often changeable, alternating warm and cold-and sometimes long unbroken cold of from four to five months, as the winter of 1880-81, The first two months of the spring, March and April, are generally cold and changeable, with May warm and salubrious. During the latter part of June, and all of July the summers are generally fiercely hot, the ther- mometer ranging from 86 degrees to 100 degrees Fahrenheit. In August, the summer heats begin gradually to subside, until September, which with October, is the most delightful season of the year in Saline. The Indian summer begins late in October, or early in November, and the weather often continues mild and charming until Christmas. There is no section of the United States where the autumns are so delightful as in Saline, and central Missouri generally.
There is really little difference between the climate of this county and that of more eastern states on the same parallel of latitude, except perhaps during the fall season, in which Saline has greatly the advantage. Fol- lowing is given a record of the range of the thermometer during a period of thirty years, as carefully compiled by Mr. Jesse J. Ferril, one of the old settlers of the county. In 1550 there was frost and ice on the 7th day of May. January 18, 1852, at sunrise mercury stood at 18 degrees below zero Fahrenheit. April 6th, snow fell to the depth of six inches-while ice, mingled with dead buffalo ran thick in the river for several days.
119
HISTORY OF SALINE COUNTY.
Year. Date. Thermom. F. Time.
Year. Date.
Thermom. F. Time.
1854 Feb. 1
1872 Dec. 19-26 av.
-733 deg., 6 a. m.
Apr. 2.
22 deg.,
1873 Jan.
23.
-11 deg., 12 m.
24. -26 deg., 6 a. m.
1874 July 5. 106 deg., 3 p. m.
July 24-25
106
deg., 3 p. m.
1854 Aug. 10. 106
1855 Jan. 3. 59
26
deg., 1 p. m.
9.
-12 -20 -17
deg., Ga. m.
66
Apr. 12. 98
-24
deg., 6 a. m.
Dec. 23, 1865, to Feb. 6, 1856, average -4 deg. 6 a. m.
66 Dec. 21-25.
54
deg.,
6 a. m.
1876 March 21. 2
Oct. 27-30. 61
81
deg., 3 p. m.
1860 Aug.
1 .. 108
deg., 3 p. m.
deg., Ga. m.
1861 Dec.
9. . 62 · deg., 6 a. m.
deg., 6 a. m.
1862 Dec. . 25 .. 56
deg., 6a. m.
March 25.
14
deg , 6 a. m.
1863 Dec. 31. 0
-10
deg., 6 p. m. 1878 July 4-24.
88 80
deg., deg.,
3 p. m.
1864 Jan. 1 ..
-24
deg., 6 a. m.
66
Sept .- Oct
16 22
deg., deg., deg., deg.,
6 a. m.
66
Dec. 10.
26
4 p. m.
66
5. . . -15
6
-19
deg., Ga. m.
1867
13.
-51/3
deg., 6 a. m.
Dec.
24.
-7
deg., 12 m.
66 14. 1868 Dec. 11.
-17
deg., deg.,
2 p. m.
Feb.
27.
68
deg:, 12
1871 Jan.
11
60
deg., deg.,
2 p. m. 6 a. m.
Dec.
27.
-3 deg., 6 a. m.
66
Dec. 4.
-10
deg., deg., 6 a. m. [. 6 a. m.
29.
24
deg.,
6 a. m.
The winter of 1871-2 was long and very cold, continuing from the 19th of November to the 6th of February, with only four days between in which the thermometer rose above the freezing point. The winter of 1875-6 was the warmest that had been known for forty years, the mer- cury ranging in December and January from 26 to 62 degrees Fahren- heit at 6 A. M.
RAIN-FALL.
The following table exhibits the amount of rain falling on the earth each year during a period of thirty-three or thirty-four years, at the town of Miami, in this county, as kept by Mr. Jesse J. Ferrill, beginning with the year 1847:
Year.
Inches. | Year.
Inches.
1847
28.40
1854
21.01
1848
.30.76
1855.
40.95
1849
41.25
1856 30.33
1850
37.76
1857 22.43
1851.
45.50
1858.
.39.36
1S52
38.32
1859. .33.60
1853.
23.02
1860.
15.33
66
Apr.
6. 15
24
deg., 12 m.
deg., 6 a. m.
66
1877 Jan. 8. -12
16. -11
deg.,
6 a. m.
1857 Jan. 18. -22
deg., 6 a. m.
Dec. 31, 1863, to Jan. 9, 1864, average -8 deg., 6 a. m.
1879 Jan. 3.
6
4. -23
66
12
0
deg., Sp. m.
9. . .
-12
deg., 6a. m.
66 1865 March 9. -7
-812 deg.,
6 a. m. 6 a. m.
66
1880 Jan. 66
2-8
-14 58
deg., 3p. m.
July 15-21.
104
64
deg., 3 p. m.
July 2-31 93
67
deg., 3 p. m.
66
28.
-9
deg., 6 a. m.
1872 Dec. 21-23. -10
July 8 .. 104 deg., deg., deg., 2 p. m.
June to July 20, average 98
2 p. m.
deg., 6 a. m.
1875 Jan. 8
July 1-25 94 22
12. 4. . . -11
deg .. 6 a. m.
deg., 6 a. m.
66
7.
-12 deg., 6 a. m.
Apr. 11. 98
deg., 3p. m.
deg .; 3 p. m.
1856 Jan. 9 ..
Feb.
deg., 6 a. m.
deg., 12 m. Dec. 11-30. 47 deg., 12 m.
3 p. m.
6a. m.
6 a. m.
1864 Sep.
1. 107
deg., 3p. m.
6 a. m.
deg., deg., 5 p. m.
deg., 6 a. m.
June 9 -- Aug. 6, av. 86
deg., 12, m.
deg., 6 a. m.
19.
deg., 3 p. m. 8 a. m.
deg., deg., 4 p. m.
Feb. 1.
76 deg., 2 p. m. 6 a. m.
June 28. 102 deg.,
2 p. m.
Apr. 5.
120
HISTORY OF SALINE COUNTY.
Year.
Inches. Year.
Inches.
1861
42.29 | 1871.
.27.55
1862.
.34.96
1872
.38.27
1863
29.47
1873
38.91
1864
25.86
1874. 26.03
1865
42.19
1875 34.13
1866
33.58
1876 42.03
1867
21.70
1877
43.98
1868
36.36
1878. 40.31
1869
41.80
1879.
42.07
1870.
27.46
1880.
32.90
1877-October, 8.53; November, 2.42; December, 3.46, which is a total of 14.41 for three months, the greatest fall of any three months . during the thirty-three years.
The deepest snows that have fallen during the past thirty-one years were: March 2, 1850, 11 inches; January 17, 1852, 13 inches; January 21, 1855, 16 inches; January 25-27, 1856, 10 inches; January 4, 1873, 13 inches; January 22, 1873, 12 inches; December 12, 1878, 24 inches.
SPRINGS.
There is a remarkable feature peculiar to a great number of the natu- ral springs of this county, the strong impregnation of their waters with common salt. This saline character of so many different springs in dif- ferent parts of the county, first suggested the name of the county, as well as the names of several of its most important streams. Some of these springs are impregnated with sulphur and other minerals, but the largest portion of them contain only muriate of soda, or common salt. "Nearly all of the mineral springs observed in this county," says Prof. Meek, "are found along streams which have excavated their valleys down nearly or quite to the lower carboniferous rocks, or through these into the upper
Devonian. * * I do not think from this fact, however, that the salines of this county have their origin in their lower carboniferous or upper Devonian rocks, which are generally not very thick here, but that they are probably more deeply seated, and merely find more ready outlets through the fissures in these limestones where they are not overlaid by the impervious clays of the coal measures." These springs are very numerous, and are scattered all over the county; but the most remarkable of them all is what is known as the "Big Salt spring," in Elmwood township, section 20, township 50, range 22, about eight or nine miles west of Marshall, and form- ing the head of Salt branch. They are situated in a circular depression of the surrounding high prairie, the depression being as much as eighty or eighty-five feet. On either side of this valley the hills are made up of coal measure rocks, while in the valley below, the soil is composed of light-col- ored clay. There are several of these large salt springs, and many smaller + ones more or less impregnated with sulphur and other minerals, all of which find an outlet in the salt branch. The largest of these is a circular
121
HISTORY OF SALINE COUNTY.
pool measuring about 60 feet in its greatest diameter; this is the famous White spring, of which there is a legend, that many years ago a teamster with his wagon and yoke of cattle was passing near by, and seeing the pool turned to it to water his cattle. The oxen being hot and thirsty, rushed into the pool to drink, and that was the last ever seen of cattle, wagon or teamster. This spring was for a long time thought to be too deep to be sounded, but it has since been found to be only about 25 to 30 feet deep. It flows in a bold stream of 30 cubic inches, and is kept in a constant state of ebulition by the escape of gases, which appear to boil up from the bottom, The water has a strong saline taste, and an odor of hydro-sulphuric acid, depositing a white flocculent precipitate. The general appearance of the water is white, but it varies a good deal in this respect, sometimes being nearly clear. Near by, to the south, is what is known as the "Blue Spring," which is about 30 feet in diameter and almost per- fectly round. It is twenty to twenty-five feet deep, more strongly saline than the White spring, more deeply impregnated with sulphurous gases, but differs from it in the clear, limpid character of its water. It is this limpid clearness that gives its name of the Blue spring. This water is so strongly impregnated with sulphuretted-hydrogen gas that it will blacken silver in a few seconds.
Salt was manufactured here by the early settlers by simply boiling down the water in kettles, when communication with St. Louis was diffi- cult and dangerous, and consumed a long period of time. There was also one attempt, by Mr. Jones, to manufacture salt here by solar evapora- tion, a good many years ago, which resulted in failure, only because of the very limited means of the gentleman who made the attempt. At that early day, timber for making vats had to be wagoned a long distance, the expense being very heavy, and the enterprise too great for the purse behind it. But now, with the C. & A. R. R. almost touching the springs, and all the more modern means of transportation, there is no reason why salt should not be manufactured here in larger quantities than at the Onan- daga salt works in New York, where by solar evaporation alone 600,000 bushels of salt are made annually. The cost of operation at these is springs, where the supply of water is absolutely unlimited, and the location several degrees further south, cannot but be far less than at Onandaga, while the salt has been proved to be of the very finest quality. It was even attempted, and to some extent successfully carried out during the late war between the sections, when it was almost impossible for the citizens to obtain salt and other necessaries from the east. The crude attempts at man- ufacture heretofore made, have, however, tested the capacity of this water, and there is little doubt that salt will yet be manufactured here in enor- mous quantities. These springs are located in section 20, township 50 and range 22.
122
HISTORY OF SALINE COUNTY.
Due west from the old fort, in township 52, range 21, on the farm of Mr. A. J. Vanmeter, there is a remarkable spring, that ebbs and flows with as much regularity as the tides of the ocean. This spring is just under the Pinnacles bluff, and about midway of the range. Its flood is between the new moon and the first quarter in each month, when it bub- bles up from the center with considerable force, throwing up sand, leaves and sticks, and flows out in a channel about sixteen feet wide by one foot deep. When it is quiet it is circular in form, and about ten feet in diameter, and is very deep-indeed, it is so deep that its bottom has never been reached by the means for sounding which could be obtained on an ordinary country farm. When it begins to flow it belches up in the center and bub- bles like a pot of soap, and then runs off like a mill-race. For about three hours it bubbles up and flows rapidly, and then ebbs back to its former station-ebbing and flowing during the dryest as well as the wet seasons. In winter it often freezes over when quiet, but when the new moon comes it bursts its icy fetters and wells up with considerable force.
SWEET SPRINGS.
Naturally Saline county embraces a self-sustaining empire in itself. Nearly all the necessary wants of man, and many of the luxuries, may here be dug from the soil, or are supplied by nature ready to his hand. Few counties in all this broad land have been so bountifully supplied by nature. All that is necessary for man to eat and wear may be grown from the soil. Coals for fuel and manufacturing purposes are here without limit.
BOTTLING
HONISEy
Wittenberg-Sorber. St. L.
Sweet Water Springs.
The larger portion of the county rests upon abounding coal measures, that are inexhaustible for thousands of years to come. Salt, that great
123
HISTORY OF SALINE COUNTY.
and universal necessity, can here be made, whether by heat or evaporation, in quantities sufficient to supply the world almost, and at cheaper rates than the county now purchases it from the north and east. And, should the citizens of this favored county become sick, nature supplies them with healing remedies. A cave in the eastern part of the county, Clay town- ship, supplies pure nitre-many valuable medicinal herbs grow wild and may be had for the gathering-while a thousand mineral and chalybeate springs bubble up spontaneously in every portion of the county; the most important and most famous of which are the celebrated Sweet Springs, in Salt Pond township, section 14, township 48, range 23, near the town of Brownsville, in the southwestern corner of the county.
Wittenberg - Sorber. sc. St.L.
Hotel, Sweet Water Springs.
These springs are very near the geographical center of the state, in an elevated healthy region, fully 500 feet above St. Louis, and were formerly owned by Rev. J. L. Yantis, an eminent Presbyterian minister. Some years ago the land embracing these springs, about thirty acres, was pur- chased by a number of gentlemen, formerly the Sweet Springs company, who have since built a spacious hotel, many cottages, and in many ways have highly adorned and beautified the grounds, and now, both as to beauty and reputation they will vie with any of the older watering resorts of the east. The springs proper flow from a limestone ledge on the banks of Blackwater-but within a radius of five miles, taking the hotel as the center, there are almost innumerable springs containing salt, sulphur, iron, magnesia and other valuable minerals. The chief medicinal springs are the Sweet, within the grounds, and the " Akesion," a short distance down the river, a pleasant drive from the hotel, which are amply fitted up for bath-
124
HISTORY OF SALINE COUNTY.
ing and swimming. This " Akesion Spring," abounds in chlorides, nitrates, sulphates, carbonates, etc. Below is the exact analysis of this famous spring:
Chloride Sodium
75.6398 grains per gallon.
Potassium
28.56395
66
Lithium.
0.29386
66
66
Magnesia
7.31837
Calcium
74.79091
Bromide Magnesia
0.13108
Nitrate 66
0.17805
Ammonia
0.17193
Sulphide Sodium
2.60873
Sulphate Calcium
Barium
0.15047
66
66
Carbonate
Ferrous
0.26683
66
66
Manganese
0.19911
Alumina .
0.16679
Silica. .
0.51319
66
66
Organic Matters
3.04696
66
66
66
Willenberg ,Sorber .: 50 .. 50.
Cottages, Sweet Water Springs.
As will be seen from the above analysis, there is a close correspondence between the waters of this Akesion Spring and the mineral waters of Hamburg Kissingen, in Germany, and as the name Akesion intimates, they have great healing properties, and act admirably in all diseases of the stomach, bowels, kidneys, bladder, and diseases peculiar to females.
The anlysis of
57.93380
66
Phosphate Calcaria
0.24267
40.25091
66
66
66
66
66
66
125
HISTORY OF SALINE COUNTY.
SWEET SPRING WATER
is as follows:
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