USA > Missouri > Saline County > History of Saline County, Missouri > Part 47
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EARLY DAYS IN GRAND PASS AND SALINE COUNTY.
BY MRS. REBECCA LEWIS.
The following historical sketch relative to the settlement of Grand Pass township and other parts of the county, by Mrs. Rebecca Lewis, is given, not alone for the interesting information contained, but to show the remarkable mental .powers of the gifted authoress-pioneer, now living, at the age of nearly seventy. The Lewis family is one of the best in the country, and one of the most prominent in the history of the county; and the writer of this sketch is one of its most creditable representatives:
About the middle of the day, late in October, 1830, a company of emi- grants halted on the bank of the Missouri river, opposite Arrow Rock. The cavalcade consisted of two carriages and three large Virginia wagons, heavily loaded with household stuff and family servants. It is my opinion that nothing on sea or land now exists bearing any resemblance to an old Virginia emigrant farm-wagon. It is a matter of some interest to the present generation, to have, in their mental picture gallery, some idea of the obsolete object, so I will attempt a "charcoal sketch." Mounted on massive wheels, a huge, curved, galley-shaped wagon-body, conspicuous
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for its white, tent-like cover, it was drawn slowly along by four strong horses. The prow of this land-ship turned up much too high to accom- modate a driver. The apparent inconvenience was supplied by a driver mounted on the near horse of the wheel-team, who, partly by word of command and partly by a single line, attached to the bit of the near horse of the leaders, guided and controlled the trained animals, and cared for the safety of the land-ship. The harness, by which the horses were attached to this antiquated vehicle, was a marvel of strength and ingenuity, if not of beauty. The extraordinary width of bands and straps, the massive buckles and ample chains, were evidence of the "inter- nal resources " of old Virginia, at least, in the way of "raw material." If the spirited horses cared for "personal appearance," they must have felt subdued and dejected under the infliction of such big collars, and shut off from the world by the huge flaps of leather, which compelled them to look straight ahead. I have already observed that the wagons were heavily loaded, but I am not prepared to explain how the freight was put in, and when once in, how it could possibly be unloaded. They did anmage to climb down some way; for I have kept them waiting so longon the bank of the river, that quite a crowd of " colored persons" and their children are sauntering about or tumbling on the ground in the autumn sunshine.
But the ferryman has heard the signal of the waiting emigrants and is answering it by unmooring the flat-boat, and rowing across to meet them. Carriages and wagons were put in motion, and after some delay, owing to the small boat, which necessitated a number of trips, the three families were conveyed safely over the Big Muddy, and the ances- tors of the Lewis family, of Grand Pass, stood on Saline soil, eleven souls in all. The "American citizens of African descent" numbered eighteen.
The day was drawing to a close. It was necessary to find some con- venient spot for camping. An easy drive enabled them to reach Rock creek before night closed in. Water and wood were here abundant, but no signs of the habitation of man could be seen. The active preparations for supper and lodging were hurried by the strong motive power of hun- ger. Cheerfulness was stimulated by release from the restraints of travel, and was manifested in the busy hum of preparation, in social chat, and in the shouts of merry children. Tents were quickly stretched, fires cracked, and the singing kettle announced the time for setting the tables. The hind-gate of the big wagon served for a table, around which gathered, in due time, strong men, hopeful women, and happy little children. The music of the flute and violin closed the evening of pleasant memories. The dawn of the last day of travel for the Shenandoah emigrants, roused them to renewed activity, and the camp was soon broken, and travel renewed. The second night found them a shelter under the hospitable
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roof of Mr. John Miller, who kept at that time a house of entertainment for travelers at the junction of the state road with the Chariton. The next day they were joyfully welcomed by their pioneer brother, Col. Wm. Lewis, to his home on the farm now known as the Godsmon farm, which is situated near the present town of Marshall. Col. Lewis was a widower with a family of small children, and the opportune arrival of such near friends, was a comfort in his bereavement, and brightened his recently clouded home.
In the enjoyment of the generous hospitality of Col. Wm. Lewis, our emigrants let the lovely autum slip away; day after day found them in the saddle riding over the wonderful country, and discovering new features of beauty, and adaptability to man's wants and happiness. Selection of a home where there existed so wide a range for choice, became a difficult matter. And the difficulty was increased by the divided attention between business and pleasure. Too often the close scrutiny and clear discrimina- tion required of the land buyer, were superseded by the distracting sight of a herd of deer, and the day set apart for decisive action was consumed in the excitement of the chase. Week after week thus spent, passed with venison plenty, but homes distant. Gen. Washington Lewis was the first to fix on a location for a home, and after the necessary delay of building a log room for his family, and a shed-room adjoining for his servants, he moved to Grand Pass.
The two remaining families continued to occupy the single room in the same yard with the one occupied by the family of their hospitable kinsman.
Some time in November, Rev. Justinian Williams preached the funeral sermon of the late Mrs. Col. Wm. Lewis, from the text, "What is man, that Thou art mindful of him." Mr. Williams belonged to the Meth- dist conference, but having no appointment for that immediate neighbor- hood, the congregation were invited to meet at the residence of Col. Wm. Lewis. There was a good attendance of the settlers; Mr. Cornelius Davis and family, Mr. Sam Miller, Sr., and family, and Mr. Daniel Keiser and family, were among the congregation; the beauty of the settlement was also present. The assembly was so unusually large that the minister in his closing remarks congratulated himself on having met "many from the north and the south, from the east and from the west."
The winter of 1830 was remarkable for its severity. All of that long and dreary season the snow lay on the ground like a shroud. The north wind howled around the settlers' little cabins like some demoniac seeking to force an entrance. The snow-drifts destroyed the natural land-marks, and made transportation and intercourse between the settlements well- nigh impossible. Storms were frequent, and after each recurrence a full corps of servants was necessary to clear the clap-board ceiling of its deposit of drifted snow. Snow crept in under the door; snow whirled by
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the four-paned window; sweeping snow took the place of spinning- wheel and loom. After all, snow had its uses, too. Melted snow sup- plied the place of the lacking well and cistern for every household pur- pose. Even the soiled clothing of the family was washed in snow-water. Wash-day was a day of unusal bustle. The servants divided among them the duties of melting snow, cooking, and washing, and, as each piece was ready for the clothes line, it was passed into the house, and the owner dried it by the fire. In her turn, each housekeeper used the irons, quickly heated before the roaring fire, for smoothing and folding her family wardrobe.
Theirs was a peace-loving and social community, else in such close quarters, where conflicting interests must have sometimes hit elbows if they did not come into actual collision. Four Missouri bedsteads, made by fitting a corner post into the puncheon floor, and inserting the others into auger holes bored in the log walls, then using the useful clap-board for slats, stood in as many corners, left only room sufficient to place three chairs before the fire, yet no family discord marred their happiness then, nor cast its long shadows into the distant future.
In January, death visited the discouraged family. Gen. Washington Lewis lost his three-year-old boy by membranous croup. Grandma Peggy and her single daughter, Louisa, were sent for to assist and com- fort the sorrowing parents. How they crossed the trackless, uninhabited prairie, which stretched in awful, monotonous sameness beneath the equally gloomy sky, there is no ready witness. The storm, which imme- diately destroyed the trace of their journey, rendered the interment an impossibility for several days. Unconscious of the bitter cold, and the drifting snow, and the furious wind, the little sleeper lay under the moth- er's burning eye in undisturbed repose. When the storm had a little abated, they dug his grave near his play-ground, and left the angels to watch his dust.
Very lately the immense power of steam was required to open a way through the snow over the same route that the adventurous women were compelled to pursue on their return from Grand Pass. Col. Wm. Lewis had gathered his cattle together from their late grazing ground in the Salt Fork bottom, where they had lived without his supplying them with food till the snow covered the herbage on which they had fed. That at this juncture the herd was ready to be driven home into winter quarters was either a wise plan or a benevolent interposition, for the trail of so many animals made a way through the snow over which it was possible to drag a vehicle. As the day wore away, and the women grew faint- hearted at witnessing the unremitting toil of their slow progress, Col. Lewis often stopped by the side of the carry-all to assure them that "there was no cause for despondency, for if the carriage could not be driven
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through they could ride home on horseback." Col. Wm. Lewis was never known to give way to discouragement. It is easy to imagine the satis- faction of Grandma Peggy and her daughter when the journey was over, and they each occupied one of the three chairs before the roaring wood fire in their own room.
One other incident which occurred in this famous month of January seems worth recording. Col. John M. Lewis had begun to prepare his home on his Grand Pass land. In attempting to haul corn to feed his horses one wagon was driven into a ravine, and it became necessary to leave them until the next day. On returning with the teams only one wagon could be found. The other was lost until spring.
In February, Col. John M. Lewis moved into a cabin on Salt Fork, where he remained until the close of winter. Dr. Penn, of Arrow Rock, was the family physician during this eventful winter.
Spring came at last, and with it came high water, that again made trav- eling unpleasant; often dangerous. But who ever heard of a man in love yielding to difficulties, especially Col. Wm. Lewis, who was never known to be discouraged? It was embarrassing to be without the means of crossing Salt Fork, when it was out of its channel, but he had a friend in Gus, who cared no more for water than a duck, and ventured over the swollen stream with Master William's love-letter to the lady on the oppo- site side, pinned to his kinky head. And still in full sympathy with Mas- ter William's difficulties, Gus swam his horse yet once more and carried the valise, containing his master's wedding suit, on his saddle before him, and assisted in making a toilet suitable for the important occasion.
The wedding occasioned some changes in business arrangements all around. Col. J. M. Lewis moved into the house just vacated by Mrs. Miller, now Mrs. Lewis, and Col. Wm. Lewis and his lady took possession of the cabin on the creek, which belonged to her in her own right, and Mr. Wil- liam H. Lewis rented Col. William's farm. The family carriage which had served Wm. H. Lewis's family for the journey at this important crisis, was sold to a man living near Jonesborough, the county seat of Saline, and tradition affirms that it often served for juries to lay their heads together, in order to decide cases of law.
During the civil war it was in this township where the army of Gen. Price halted for some days, during the invasion of Missouri, in the fall of 1864. The headquarters were near Kaiser's bridge, but the camps were up and down Salt Fork for some miles. Here was where " Old Pap " held his levees and was visited by hundreds of citizens, male and female, who admired him and loved his cause. Here, also, he received and put into organization hundreds of recruits, who availed themselves of his presence to escape from the hateful domination of the Federals and enroll themselves under the banner of the stars and bars, which was des-
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tined full soon to be trailed in the dust of disaster and torn amid the debris of defeat.
The township furnished its quota of men on either side during the struggle, all of whom it is believed were creditable representatives of its bravery and devotion to principle.
It was in this township where the regiment of Col. Jo. O. Shelby was organized and rendezvoused, in August, 1862.
Bill Anderson's and Quantrell's guerrillas frequently passed down and up the banks of the river, seaching for a crossing place, and on other business.
Some of those fearful murders incident to war occurred in Grand Pass, mention of which is to be found elsewhere.
Since the close of the war and all its horrors, and the passing away of the reconstruction period, with all its bitterness, the people of the town- ship have settled down to the calm pursuits of peace, the development of the fine, fertile country, and the bettering of their own condition and that of their fellow men. Numbers of northern men live in the town- ship, and all, democrats and republican, northerners and southerners, dwell together like "brethren in unity."
NATURAL FEATURES.
THE GRAND PASS.
The Grand Pass which gives its name to the lake near by, and to the township, and to the church at the pass, is a narrow pass of high bluff land from one hundred to five hundred yards wide, between the waters of Salt Fork on the one side, and the lakes in the river bottom on the other. In the early settlement of the county the great thoroughfare of emigration and traders to Santa Fe ran through the pass, and the name of Grand Pass was given to it by them.
The old emigrant and trading road ran south of the present road- but there are several points at which a stout boy could stand in the cen- ter and throw a stone over the bluff on the one hand, or into the waters of Salt Fork on the other.
In the early trading times, 1835, a hotel was built and kept on the pass by the Early brothers, John and William, who were cousins to Rev. John Early, a noted Methodist bishop, of Kentucky. The Earlys sold out to Mr. George Francisco, who kept the hotel for some years, when it burned down. The first postoffice was kept at the house of Captain John De Moss, by himself. The east mail came once a week from Old Jefferson, now New Frankfort, and the west from Dover. In some mounds near the Pass have been found human skulls and other bones, and polished stone axes, and other instruments.
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THE LAKES.
The Grand Pass and Davis' Lakes are two lakes in the river bottom, north of the plains-the one about three miles in length and three-quarters of a mile in width in the early times, and called Grand Pass lake from its proximity to the pass; the other several miles long and one-half mile wide, and named after Mr. George Davis, one of the earliest settlers, who lived directly on the bluff above the lake.
These lakes are supposed to have been formed originally by an over- flow of the river, and they are now undoubtedly fed by under-currents from the river. They have both diminished in size and depth since those early times. Muskrat and fish used to abound in these lakes, but of late years both have greatly diminished in quality and quantity. The Indians called these lakes by a common name, Minnehaha, meaning "laughing water," identical with the name of the famed fall in Minnesota. How the same word means the same thing, although in two different Indian dia- lecs, is not for this history to explain.
PETITSAW PLAINS.
This magnificent body of level table land on the second bluff from the river is entirely within Grand Pass township. The soil is an almost fathomless loam, as rich and productive as any equal body of land in the world. The name comes down from a very early date, and is said to have been derived from a small tribe of Indians called Petitsaw, or "Little Tribe," Indians. The large trees that may now be seen on these plains were planted by the early settlers.
The plains extend from Salt Fork and Muddy creeks on the east to the narrow pass between Grand Pass lake and Salt Fork on the west, and from Salt Fork on the south to the bluffs which jut over the bottom on the north-about six to seven miles from east to west, and varying from one- half mile to five miles from north to south. The land of the plains is about forty feet above the level of the bottom, and about fifty feet above the ordinary level of the river.
The first orchard planted in Grand Pass township, if not in the county, was on the farm of Mr. George Davis, immediately on the lake bluff north of where the town of Malta Bend now stands-some trees of which orchard may yet be seen -- or could be a few years ago.
INCIDENTS IN THE HISTORY OF THE TOWNSHIP.
KILLING OF CARROLL.
In 1848, a man named Carroll was killed at the house H. J. Renick in the bottom, under the following rather mysterious circumstances: Carroll and a man named Hoke, were passing Renick's house. Carroll asked Hoke to wait until he went into the house, which he did. In a moment
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or so after Carroll entered the house, Hoke heard the report of a gun, and in a short time Renick appeared at the door, into which Hoke could not see, bearing Carroll, who was shot in the shoulder, the ball ranging downwards. Mrs. Aurelia Renick claimed that she had shot Carroll from the top of a ladder, and that she did it because of improper advances he was making to her. The preliminary trial was held at the house of the nearest magistrate, Gen. G. W. Lewis-the attorneys being John W. Bry- ant, Esq., and M. W. Obannon, Esq., defending, and the state's attorney, Kelley, prosecuting-and Mrs. Renick was discharged. Her husband was also arrested, and afterward tried in Marshall, with the same attorneys, and with the same result-acquittal. The real circumstances of the case, if they were really different from what are here given, have never come to light.
A HAPPY TIME.
Soon after the death of Mr. George Davis, in the year 1844, there was a sale of his personal property, and a large number of citizens round about, attended the sale. The weather was very cold, the snow about one foot deep, and the people made log fires in the yard. They took pots of cider and thawed it over these fires. A man named Landell secretly put about one quart of brandy in each pot of cider. The result was the whole unsuspicious crowd were soon gloriously drunk, ministers of the gospel among them.
At the organization, in 1832, of the Grand Pass chapel, certainly the oldest Methodist church in the county, there were present William and John P. DeMoss, Mrs. Joe McReynolds and daughter Lizzie, Capt. John V. Webb and wife, two Misses McReynolds, Mrs. Margaret Lewis and daughter, Mrs. L. S. Major, Mrs. Harriet Lewis, wife of Gen. G. W. Lewis; Rev. R. H. Lee, minister. This house of worship, that was then built, still stands, and has been continuously a place of worship for half a century.
THE TOWN OF MALTA BEND.
The town of Malta Bend, located on the Petit Saw plains, in Grand Pass township, was laid off by Joseph R. Lunbeck in 1867. There were then three dwelling-houses, one dry goods and variety store and a post- office at this point, including Mr. Lunbeck, Dr. James McNutt, W. H. Squairs and John D. Reeves.
The wonderfully rich land around attracted many eastern farmers, and men of means, to this point. The citizens were sober, industrious and honest, and the little town grew steadily, and now, after the lapse of fifteen years, is quite a little city of 400 inhabitants, containing two dry goods stores (Wilson & Gills and A. T. Palmer), four grocery stores (Coleman, Dow, McCarty, and Biles & Bro.), three drug stores (Brown & 28
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McQuoid, Mahan & Purcell and Little & Walden), one tin and hardware store (F. M. Chapline), one boot and shoe shop (H. Holtz), two black- smith, carriage and wagon shops (Day and Duvally), one livery stable (J. G. Dill), five churches ( Methodist Episcopal, Presbyterian, O. S., "Christian" and African Methodist), one graded public school, of which Prof. G. W. Newton is principal, four lodges ( Masonic, Odd-Fellows, Good Templars and United Workmen). There is not a saloon in the city.
The town of Malta Bend derived its name in the following manner: Many years ago, the old steamboat Malta struck a snag, on one of her trips up the river, and sunk at a bend near what has since been called Malta Bend landing. The bend in the river assumed the name of the steamboat, and the landing the name of the bend, and the town, back on the bluffs, the name of the landing, Malta Bend.
Although Malta Bend has been unsuccessful in obtaining direct railroad communication with the rest of the world, the country around here is so fertile and so thriving that she must always be a capital business point- and she has always set an example in patronizing home industries, and in liberal dealing with every enterprise that looked to the general good, that some of her neighbor towns would do well to follow.
HISTORY OF MALTA BEND BY DR. M'NUTT.
Late in October, 1866, I met Mr. John D. Reeves, then residing near where Malta Bend now stands, who informed me that there was some talk of laying out a town in his neighborhood. Having lately arrived in the county, and not being permanently settled, I determined to go out in that direction on a prospecting tour, which determination I put in execu- tion the next day.
I was struck with the beauty, fertility and advantageous situation of that splendid region, named by the early French trappers, " Plaines des Petites Sauts," plains of the little falls, on which Malta Bend is built. I saw that there was a good chance for a thriving town to flourish in this neighbor- hood, and calling upon Mr. Joseph R. Lunbeck, who was then building his present residence, I proposed to purchase a lot of ground and move my family out there, and assist in founding a new town. This met Mr. Lunbeck's hearty approval, and he sold me a lot containing about half an acre of ground, adjoining that on which his own residence stands. This was some months before the plat of the town was laid out.
I moved there on the 25th of November, 1866, and purchased a little frame house that stood on Mr. Reeves' farm, which I moved on to my lot, and camped in it during the winter,it being too late to build that season. A few weeks after my arrival, Mr. Lunbeck moved into his new house, and shortly afterwards laid out the present town, and offered lots for sale, to actual settlers on very liberal terms. The next spring, Mr. Wm. H.
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Squairs and family settled with us, and built a house on the first lot sold after the town was laid out.
Early in 1867, Mr. D. D. Buie, of Marshall, built a very commodious store and placed a good stock of goods in it, which was the first mer- cantile house established in the place. Shortly afterwards, Mr. J. M. Hopkins, of Waverly, bought a parcel of ground of Mr. A. F. Brown, adjoining the original town plat, and erected a very substantial store and dwelling house, and Dr. R. H. Corrin moved to the place and conducted the business of the store for several years succeeding. The house did a large business under Dr. Corrin's management, and was very prosperous. This and adjoining lots were afterwards added to the town, and are now known as " Brown's first addition."
During the summer and fall of 1867, several very worthy individuals and families purchased lots, built houses and settled with us. Among these may be mentioned, Mr. E. Cooper and family; Dr. A. Van Meter and family; and Mr. Miles H. Van Meter, carpenter and builder, who has done much to enhance the interests of the place, by his enterprise and industry.
From this time forward a steady emigration set in, and many houses were built in the town and adjacent country, until now, the lands consti- tuting the whole of what is known as the " Plains," are cultivated like a garden, and are unrivalled in fertility and productiveness by any on this continent, though, but ten years ago, they presented the appearance of a dreary morass, fit habitation only for frogs and mosquitoes.
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