USA > Montana > Blaine County > In the land of Chinook; or, The story of Blaine county > Part 15
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It is said there was a time when even the best citizens of Harlem were susceptible to that particular thing we call the root of all evil, as our friend Mac, who was running for senator of Chouteau county and having plenty of money, and not desirous of defeat, sent his henchman and foreman to our precinct, noted for its Republican partisanism, and openly purchased at ten dol- lars per vote, all those who were willing to exchange their man- hood for so trivial an amount.
We who now find ourselves possessed of homes here on the broad plains of Northern Montana, in the County of Blaine, have a duty to perform that will prove our worth to future gener- ations. We live but a day and are then gathered to our fathers, to become dust as they, but let us build in this new common- wealth, well, so that no ill reproach may be attached to our memories.
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CHAPTER XIV. (Tune, Beulah Land.)
I've reached the land of wind and heat Where nothing grows for man to eat; This awful dust and scorching heat, In all the world is hard to beat.
Chorus : Oh, Idaho land, Oh, Idaho land, As on the alkali beds I stand, I look across the sage-brush plains And wonder why it never rains Till Gabriel blows his trumpet sound
And says the rain has all gone 'round.
The farmer goes out to his corn, I never saw him look so lorn, He is amazed, he's almost shocked To find the corn amid the stalk.
Chorus: Oh, Idaho land, etc.
The people here are all one race; Starvation stares us in the face; We do not live, we only stay- We are too poor to move away.
DRY FARMING.
That the great plains of Eastern Montana were always to benefit the stockman was the idea that prevailed in the minds of the wisest of those who had come in the early days to make their homes-in what was then known as the "Buffalo County"_ later, when those animals were driven out, to become the home of the big stockman; whether engaged in cattle, horse or sheep, it did not matter.
The extinction of the buffalo was a thing that was accom- plished in a manner that was heartrending to the Indians, but so effective that it only required a short time to so thoroughly efface them that where millions roamed in the '70s, none were to be found in the later '80s. General Miles, so it is told, had said that the most successful manner of subduing the Indian would be the complete annihilation of the immense herds of buffalo that were used by them both as food and a medium of exchange, as the
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hide had become valuable or was valuable as a unit well known to both white and Red. (Their extinction will be told in its proper place.)
By whom dry farming was first attempted in Montana I do not know. I would like very much to give credit to that person who began something which has since made many homes for those who have been willing to try to subdue the dry lands on the great prairies of our state, as well as the hills and bench lands above the ditch.
The fact is that "Dry Farming" is simply a term which is used in contra-distinction to irrigation. The modes of farming are as different-in a way-as the individual farmer wishes. It is true that the conservation of the moisture can be done by using a certain formula that has been, and is being taught by the scien- tific or "book farmer" which simply means one who is observant enough to note conditions and what produces them, with the faculty of reducing them to writing so that some one else can have the advantage of his knowledge, which is the result of observation.
The writer has been in Montana for over fifty years and has seen all the changes take place that have changed the buffalo pastures into fruitful fields, the benches and hills into farms and orchards and that leads one to believe that the great state of Montana is even now in its swaddling clothes.
In 1909 he was working for the state as an agent in the department of the State Lands. This gave him an opportunity to go over much of the country, as a part of his duty was to appraise for the sale and lease.
(While working in this capacity he feels particularly proud of certain work which was accomplished through him and which, were it not for a matter of history, he would not relate. He saw that the school lands of the state were being used by some, not alone for grazing, but for agriculture as well. He could not believe that this was looked at in the correct light by the men in charge of the land office, and so told them. This was a matter which was something new to them and was not looked upon kindly by those who were over him. He went to the Governor, Edwin I .. Norris, and gave him an explanation of his idea and wishes, and the Governor, ever-ready to secure the best results for the people of Montana, called the Board of Land Commissioners together at once and a resolution was passed at that meeting mak- ing a grazing and also an agricultural price which should be paid by the lessee. This resolution which the state board passed at that meeting has made, so Joseph Oker said, "Hundreds of thou- sands of dollars for the school fund.")
The writer feels that he has been well repaid for the thought that came to him, as the results have been so beneficial to the
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state at large. He could see no reason why any one should extract the substance from the soil of land owned by the state without paying for it.
He admits that though he had seen many fine crops taken from the land above the ditch in the Gallatin valley, he was not wide-awake enough to see the possibilities and probabilities of the Great Plains to the east.
There was a reason why the hills and bench lands of the inter-mountain section might produce crops above the ditch, as the conformation of the mountain ranges caused more precipita- tion than was known to exist on the lands far removed from such influences.
He had seen the accounts of the experiences of the Hon. Paris Gibson, of Great Falls, who had claimed that there was no such thing as desert land in Montana, and that one could make a success by using the methods that had been advanced by the book-farmer.
He had also seen articles by Professor Campbell, who had been compelled to stick with his claim in South Dakota because he was to poor to leave.
He had met Professor Linfield, of the Montana Agricul- tural College, at Bozeman, and listened-as he had too many others-without heeding the advice of this man who had given up his life to agricultural pursuits, believing, but never positively asserting that he knew, that the arid lands would prove his pre- delictions, and make homes for thousands of hardy pioneers who would try out the experiments of the Scientific Farmer.
The writer was in Bozeman and the Professor asked him if he intended to attend the Dry Farming Congress which was to convene at Billings the coming fall. As he was working for the state he could hardly see how he could quit his work for a week and put the state to the expense of a visit of that nature, when he did not really believe that the state would receive any benefit in dollars and cents.
He thus explained the matter to the Professor, who came back: "Noyes, you go to Billings and attend that meeting and you will have learned enough so that for every dollar you will spend the state will be reimbursed to such an extent that you will be glad you went, and that you took my advice. It is needless to say that I accepted the gentleman's advice and never missed one of the talks, morning or evening, during the whole meeting.
Men were there from all over the known world. I listened to them with wrapt attention, when they told how things could be done that would open the eyes of those who did not want to see.
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I saw the results of their labors in the many beautiful displays of grains, vegetables and fruits-all raised on land above the ditch, and some of them where drinking water was at a premium.
I met many of these men. Among others, I met one who had at one time been in my employ, working in the dairy or at any kind of labor that a ranch required. He was at that time in the employ of the government as an expert, to become later the Dean of the Agricultural College of the state of Kansas, and one of the leading agronomists in the world, William Jardine.
Professor Linfield was right, the author had learned a lesson and put at once into practice the information that had come to him, by placing a higher value on the lands susceptible to agriculture.
He recalls one piece of land, not far from Manhattan in the Gallatin valley, on which he placed a value of $22.50 per acre and which was thought by the boys in the land office too high- in fact so high that a re-appraisement must needs be made before the state could realize on it. The same fall that land was sold at Bozeman for $51.50 an acre.
HOW THE WRITER LEARNED OF THE LAND ON THE MILK RIVER OR NORTHERN MONTANA.
In one of his trips to the Northern part of the state he had stopped at Harlem to look over some land, from which place he was to go as far as Coburg and Saco. On the train from Harlem to Coburg was a pioneer plainsman, John Forgy, who told him of a section of country to the north and just south of and border- ing on the Canadian line, which was noted for its fine soil and excellent water. He also said that some of the people in Harlem, with J. J. Hill and the Agricultural College of Montana had begun to experiment along agricultural lines. While the writer listened attentively to the gentleman he could see no reason why he should at any time take advantage of the information. The one thing that impressed him the most favorably was the good water, as that was an unknown quantity along the bottom lands of the Milk river valley.
After attending the Congress he explained to his wife-who had always been willing to follow his fortunes (as The Story of Ajax will prove) that he thought it would be a good idea to look into the section of country concerning which Forgy had told him earlier in the season, and that probably they might repair their broken fortunes by taking up a piece of land and by using some of the knowledge that he had absorbed by listening to the men who had succeeded along the lines which he now contemplated.
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Not caring to go at this matter blindly, he went to see Pro- fessors Linfield and Nelson, two of the men under whom the work had taken place at the experiment farm north of Harlem- and sought their advice, as well as what knowledge they had secured through their work and observation.
Both of these gentlemen spoke in glowing terms of that par- ticular section of the state; told what they thought of its future and explained what had been done, handing a pamphlet that gave a description in concise language. They thought that they knew of no particular place-then to be had-that would prove better adapted to what one wanted-the making of a home on the prairie.
The writer also sought information from Senator Thomas M. Everett, of Harlem, a man who had made a success as a ranch- man on the bottom lands of the Milk river under irrigation, and who had been instrumental in having the experimental station started to see if it could not be demonstrated that the land was more valuable for agriculture than it was for grazing.
The senator replied to his letter, giving him the results of what had been done and saying that the year just passed (1909) the grain, especially oats, had produced over one hundred bushels per acre and that everything else that had been put in the ground that year had done so well that many people had come to the conclusion that no longer was the raising of crops, in that section, problematical, but an assured fact, and they were beginning to homestead the lands that were near the 'farm.' This letter was not one that was misleading in any way, just a good, common sense communication to one who wished for facts, so far as the facts could be known.
The writer came to the conclusion to go and make a personal investigation. He also thought it would be a wise idea to go east with an illustrated lecture on dry lands of Montana and try to secure emigrants whom he thought were coming to the state.
On the second day of February, 1910, he got a team, and with Hans Twete, who had taken land near the experiment sta- tion, as driver and guide, went to look over the country.
While several had located that fall there was only one house occupied and that was by Bob Gorsuch and brother. A young Dane who was building a shack three or four miles east, was staying with the Gorsuchs that winter. We accepted the hos- pitality of Bob, who had seen the experimental farm while the grain was being harvested the fall before, and concerning which they gave such glowing accounts. (Bob never stayed long enough to prove up as the hot and dry seasons so completely discouraged him that he sold his claim for a small amount and quit. )
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Here was a new world to conquer and to one used to the life of a pioneer there could be no great hardships to encounter that would deter any one with nerve. We returned to Harlem the next day well satisfied with what we had seen and learned.
To go east and secure many emigrants who would be willing to pay for the correct information as to a good location was thought to be an easy thing. I must admit that the attempt was made without any good results and a return to Montana was considered the best thing to be done, if we wanted to get a claim for ourselves, as we found that J J. Hill and the big railroad interests of the country were doing all they could to see that the free homesteads of Montana should be taken up, as they could see that they could derive some benefit, at least while the opera- tion was taking place. Then, too, Hill had seen the Dakotas build up and thrive.
The writer and his son (Raymond) hurried back to Harlem. When we arrived there we found that almost every man, woman and child had become obsessed with a wish to help locate the "Scissorbills" and secure a little of the money they were bringing into the country-get it while they could, as too many of them had no hope that these people would succeed in making a per- manent home for themselves.
The truth is, the stockmen had seen the hot sun burn the grass to a crisp or had seen the seasons when no grass had grown at. all for lack of moisture. Then some, who had stock, thought that the Dry Farmer would secure their pasture and, while they could not make a living themselves they would drive the stockman from his rightful possession, as the buffalo hunter had driven the Indians from their hunting grounds, as they had left nothing to hunt.
The scramble for land was on. Any one who had come to the Northwest through the gateway of St. Paul could not help but see the splendid display that had been gotten together by the Great Northern Railroad company. One could hardly believe that Montana could produce such a variety of products that were there assembled. Such profusion; such quality and quantity. It was truly enough to make the homeless man turn his pockets to see if he could find enough to take advantage of the low (?) cost of homesteading.
Of course Hill's men and Hill himself did not say that all people could and would make a success, but the door of oppor- tunity was standing ajar and to him who would push it open and delve deeply and wisely among the treasures there assembled would surely find some gem of great value.
So they came, men and women, from all over the middle and eastern states to take advantage of the chance thrown out to them.
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In those days when we were trying to settle the lands on the big prairies we had all kinds of discouragements in the advice given by those who did not, for several reasons, wish us to stay. The writer recalls that one morning he came from his room and listened to the impassioned speech that a gentleman was making concerning the influx of settlers. He said, among other things: "Any man who has no more principle than to locate men on these plains in northern and eastern Montana, where the drouth and hot winds will surely sap the strength from every plant that they attempt to grow should be hanged by the neck until he is dead. No greater crime could be committed than the one now being carried into effect. These people will come here, led by false representation, and when they have tried and failed they will be broke, paupers, on the hands of those who can ill afford to assume such a responsibility. Why, I will agree to haul with one four-horse team, and at one time, all that they can ever raise." I have never doubted but what that man, at the time he was making that talk, believed what he said, and actually thought he was telling the truth.
I listened to him for some time and then told him he sounded to me much like a stockman who wished that what he was saying would come true. That he had personal reasons for saying what he did in order to keep people from taking up the range. I told him that he surely did not know what he was talking about, but that he was not to blame for that as many of us in Montana had thought as he had, but that we were not yet enlightened to the fullest concerning the possibilities of the country. I admitted that up until a very short time before I had thought and talked as he had, but that we must face the issues as they were pre- sented to us, and one of them would be the taking up of all the land that was at all susceptible to agriculture. I told him what I had seen at Billings and left him completely silent with a parting shot to "stop and think."
Before going on to give some of the actual experiences that took place under my observation, concerning the farming of dry land in Blaine county, I wish to give credit to those men who first thought there was some possibility of making the land, if rightly farmed, produce enough for a livelihood.
THE FIRST DRY EXPERIMENT STATION.
Dry farming in an experimental way was begun in 1905 to determine the feasibility of raising crops without irrigation in what is now Blaine county. This was the first experiment station in Montana. This station was financed by a few of the business men of Harlem-Charles A. Smith, Charles H. Barton, Henry
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C. Turner and Thomas M. Everett, with a few small contribu- tions from some of the other citizens.
The first year's crop was sown on the sod and was only a partial success. About ten to fifteen acres were put in in wheat, oats, barley and flax.
The following year the same parties, in connection with the State Agricultural college and the Great Northen railroad, selected a section of land near the place we had used and which Congress set aside for ten years for experimental purposes. Dry land farming was carried on upon about 100 to 160 acres of land for five or six years, with a yield that demonstrated beyond a doubt that dry-land farming, if carried on scientifically, would produce a good yield, at least every other year, with summer fallow. The crops averaged, during that time, from fifteen to forty bushels of wheat; twenty to one hundred bushels of oats; eighteen to forty-five bushels of barley, and ten to eighteen bush- els of flax per acre. Corn and garden stuff were grown in the same way.
This work was carried on until the cultivation of dry farms was general and it was no longer necessary to carry on the farm.
All the first settlers who came into the country seemed to be of the opinion that the land in the immediate vicinity were the only lands that could be successfully cultivated, so they were the first taken up. (We have to thank the Hon. T. M. Everett for the above information. )
To resume our narrative: We find that the spring of 1909 many settlers came to locate the dry lands in what was soon to become Blaine county.
The spring was early and the month of March was dry and hot with not a vestige of moisture.
Of course there was a possibility that there would be plenty of rain in the growing season and a few people came to the conclusion that they would put in a few acres.
The writer had no idea from any thing of a practical nature what farming meant.
It was at last agreed upon, by others of his party, that he was to go to the west and get some horses, machinery, etc., and put in as large an acreage as possible. He returned with six head of horses and the breaking of the sod began. It was too soon demonstrated that there was too little moisture to allow one to plow. Our first breaking consisted of about two acres. This land was planted with potatoes which cost $1.75 per sack at the railroad, which was 30 miles away. It took eight sacks to put in what we considered the proper amount.
After the seed was in, all we could do was to wait for the heavenly sprinkling cart to come along and with its aid, and the
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revivifying rays of the summer sun, cause those tubers to spring into life, producing something which would be a thing to eat, if not "A thing of beauty."
While we were waiting for the water wagon to come along and do its part we began to have our day dreams. We could imagine the many fine things we could buy when we had har- vested the crop (?) If we could get much of a yield and the price was as good as in the fall as it was when we bought the seed we could take a trip to California or some other place where we could be far removed from the rigors of an almost Arctic clime. In fact we spent that money in many ways, in our minds (and that is the only way we ever had to spend it) while we were waiting for the rain.
That season there must have been a great big umbrella or a mammoth Zeppelin hanging over our northlands, as no moisture fell. We had seen some place that the rain falls on the just and the unjust. We couldn't have been either one or the other as no moisture fell in quantities sufficient to cause the spuds to get up a sweat.
The hot sun came and the waves, of hot air, as they rolled in billows over the parched fields left no moisture, for a time long enough, to bring to life any of the seeds that many a time, under more auspicious conditions, must have dotted those vast plains.
No flower sprang into existence to entice the bee with its fragrance, and not a bird warbled its sweet song to break the awful stillness that surrounded the "shack" on the thirsty prairie we had selected for home (?).
No blast that ever blew across the seething flames of Hades could have more thoroughly withered the small blades of grass, as they tried to lift their heads from mother earth, than did those hot winds that came from a h-, of a self-made nature.
Prairie fires caught in the grass of a year that was dead-and in the month of June-when all the land should have had a carpet of green with clusters of flowers to beautify the scene, swept every vestige from the soil and left it a black, bleak space.
Our potatoes? Why, they would not grow. They, many of them, even refused to sprout and were dug, later, and eaten after they had remained in the ground all summer. Other people did not fare any better than we did. It was surely a year to be remembered.
The experimental farm was worked and while it did not produce a large crop it did, however, produce something and was not a complete failure.
This was proof of what the Professors had said: "Conserve your moisture and you will be sure to have some kind of a crop."
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The writer and his wife left this uncongenial section to secure work in a more favorable field so that the younger ones of the family might remain and hold down their claims.
No hay had grown and the only means of keeping their horses during the coming winter would be either to cut the dead grass or haul hay from the Milk River valley, thirty miles away, and pay a high price for it. It was thought wise to cut the dry hay, but it proved any thing but a success. The horses were allowed to go to the range each day and in that way they were brought through, though they were in very poor shape to do much work the next spring.
The spring of 1911 found us with fifty to sixty acres of land ready for seeding, as there had been a little moisture during the winter.
As flax had been high the year before we came to the con- clusion to put in at least fifty acres into that seed and try a few acres of wheat and oats. The flax, for seeding, had cost us, laid down on the farm, four dollars per bushel. With the mois- ture we had that spring and the persuasive heat of the sun's rays properly applied that fifty-acre tract looked like the blue waters of some wonderful lake, or a garden of flowers, that was soon to produce wealth in the myriad bolls that were to take their place.
The boys could see success every time they looked upon that smiling field and our neighbors, with more experience than we, congratulated us on a crop that would produce 1000 bushels. But, alas, for our dreams and speculations, they were to be nipped in the bud, as the hot sun tempered the wind to "sear" the flax, and instead of having 1000 bushels, we had 84!
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