USA > Montana > Then and now; or, Thirty-six years in the Rockies. Personal reminiscences of some of the first pioneers of the state of Montana. Indians and Indian wars. The past and present of the Rocky mountain country. 1864-1900 > Part 5
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GREAT FALLS, MONTANA.
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THIRTY-SIX YEARS IN THE ROCKIES.
were feeding on the grasses of the bench lands. While viewing the open plains, stretching on to where the Highwood and Little Belt ranges rose, covered with the first fall of snow, the winding rivers, the confluence of the Sun and the Missouri, following the latter in its course until lost to view between high bluffs, I forgot all save the scene before me, hearing only the roaring of the waters as they rushed over the Mis- souri falls further down the river. Just then I saw an In- dian about half way between myself and the two tepees; he was on foot and coming towards inc. As I had not lost any Indians, I put the spurs to my horse and headed for home. When I had gone about a mile I looked back and saw the Indian standing where I had been but a few minutes before. Today I onee more looked down from the summit of the same hill, but what a changed picture was spread before me! The plains that were "then" dotted with buffaloes are "now" cov- ered with pleasant homes and imposing business blocks. Where was once an Indian village, today the stock farm of Hon. Paris Gibson is located. The two tepees are replaced by The American Brewing and Malting company's plant, and at the foot of Prospect Hill, where the antelopes were, a water plant for a city of fifteen thousand inhabitants is in full oper- ation. On the commanding bluff, "then" occupied by the look- out tepec, "now" the lofty smokestack of the Boston and Mon- tana copper smelter stands in bold relief against the blue back- ground of the sky, a landmark for hundreds of settlers for many miles around. The Missouri river is spanned by several steel bridges which carriages and locomotives cross at will. The buffalo trails have given place to electric railways, and the grove, where these shaggy-looking animals used to rub their coats, is now a beautiful park echoing with children's laughter. But the greatest change of all has been wrought at the falls of the Missouri. Its mighty voice "then" paramount, "now"
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has been overpowered and well nigh silenced by the humming of dynamos and the sound of the great ore crushers as they labor on day and night, the slaves of the white man's civiliza- tion. A brief sketch of these falls is proper at this time. The falls of the Missouri river were first made known in 1805. Thomas Jefferson, the third president of the United States,
GREAT FALLS 32 7
TEGALE FALLS
COPPER SMELTER AT GREAT FALLS, MONTANA.
was a leading figure in the purchase of Louisiana, which embraced the country west of the Mississippi from its mouth north to the forty-ninth parallel at the Lake of the Woods. The forty-ninth parallel constituted the northern boundary to the Rocky mountains; the western line was the summit of the Rockies to the Arkansas river, to the one-hun- dredth meridian, thence south to the Red river, thence down that river to the ninety-fourth meridian, thence southerly along
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that meridian to the Sabin river, thence down the Sabin river to the Gulf of Mexico.
In 1803 Jefferson sent a message to congress, asking for an appropriation of $2,500 for the exploration of the Mis- souri and Columbia rivers. The result was that the amount was granted. Lewis and Clark were chosen to take charge of the expedition.
The expedition spent the winter of 1803-1804 near the mouth of the Missouri river. The Northwest was then a wilderness. The expedition ascended the Missouri river to Fort Mandan north of Bismarck, where they laid over during the winter of 1804-1805. Their means of transport were sev- eral rowboats. July, 1805, they arrived at the falls of the Missouri river, where they spent two weeks surveying and mak- ing a portage. Lewis and Clark were the first white men who visited the falls of the Missouri river, or at least they were the first to make its existence known to the world.
The lower falls, known as the Great Falls, is a perpendic- ular fall of about ninety feet. The river at this point is esti- mated to contain a volume of water about three times great- er than that of the Ohio at Pittsburg. This immense vol- ume is here confined between rocky walls on either side, from two hundred to five hundred feet in height and about three hundred yards in width. Next to the right bank nearly half the stream descends vertically with such terrific force as to send continuous and always beautiful clouds of spray sometimes two hundred feet or more in the air. The other side of the river is precipitated over successive ledges of from ten to twenty feet, forming a magnificent view some two hundred yards in breadth and ninety feet in perpendicular elevation. A vast basin of surging, foaming waters succeeds below, its deep green color and commotion betraying a pro- digious volume and depth,
.
From Painting by C. M. Russell.
LEWIS AND CLARK MEETING THE MANDAN INDIANS.
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Five miles above are the Crooked and Rainbow Falls, the latter fifty feet in perpendicular descent. Here the entire river, one thousand two hundred feet wide, hurls itself over an unbroken rocky rim, as regular in its outline as a work of art, into a vast rock-bound amphitheater, where when the suu is shining a rainbow spans the river from bank to bank. This with the sprays, the roar and commotion of the water make a fascinating scene. From this rainbow the falls received its name.
Another two miles up the stream is the Black Eagle Falls. Here thesentire river takes a vertical plunge of twenty-six feet. On an island, and just below this falls, there formerly was a large cottonwood tree, in the branches of which a black eagle had built its nest. It is from this that the Black Eagle Falls received its name.
The river where these falls are located flows through a grand natural canyon, where in its ceaseless flow, has cut a path for itself through the rock of the plains, sometimes to a depth of five hundred and fifty feet. The series of falls and cas- cades add a wild beauty to the scene.
In no place has there been found so great a water power. Within a distance of ten miles, including falls and cataracts, there is a descent of five hundred and twelve feet.
ROBERT VAUGIIN.
June 27th, 1899.
1
MONTANA'S PIONEERS.
Who were the pioneers of Montana ? They were the brave men and noble women who came here first; they were descend- ants of many countries, and were the most courageous of the nations from which they came. They were the heroes who rescued this beautiful mountain land from the hands of the sav- ages and laid the foundation and moulded the destiny of this great state.
The cut-throats, robbers and murderers who were here in the early days were not worthy of being called pioneers, for they made a desperate effort to demolish what the real pioneers were building up. To expose their kind, I will refer to two of this class who were hung at Virginia City in the presence of sev- eral hundred citizens. They belonged to a gang of highway- men and murderers. Each stood on a separate box with a rope around his neck, which was attached to a crossbeam, and, while in this position, one was using the most profane lan- guage and cursing every one present; just then a friend of the victim whom he had robbed and killed shoved the box from under his feet; while this one was dangling in the air the other one looked at him, and with an oath said: "Kick away old boy, I will be in hell with you in a minute," then jumped off the box himself and into eternity. Though these men were human beings, the wicked and vicious habits they had contract- ed had destroyed all the humanity they possessed. Now, in consequence, nothing was left of them but the brute, for they neither feared God nor respected their fellowmen. Between those ruffians and the Indians the pioneer had his hands full.
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He had to work for himself, and at the same time he was ready at a moment's notice to defend the right and his fellow- man with as much pluck and bravery as any soldier ever dis- played.
Many think that most of the early settlers of Montana were of the rough element, but this impression is wrong. Most
A GROUP OF PIONEERS.
of the old pioneers were of the best law-abiding citizens that could be found in any country, men of culture as well as cour- age. Many of them afterwards helped to frame the constitu- tion and the laws that govern the state at the present time (1899). Edgerton, her first governor, was here before the name "Montana" was thought of.
Ex-Governor S. T. Houser is now carrying a scar which he received at the time the James Stuart party, of which he was
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a member, had that terrible battle with the Indians on the Yellowstone in 1863. W. A. Clark, recently elected United States senator, and Ex-United States Senator Wilbur F. San- ders, and others who have already represented Montana in the halls of congress, also have worked in the prospector's hole. Granville Stuart, who was appointed Envoy Extraordinary and Minister Plenipotentiary to Paraguay and Uruguay in 1894, and served a term of four years, were here among the first comers. Nathaniel P. Langford (now. of St. Paul, Minn.), the author of "Vigilante Days and Ways," and who at one time was bank examiner for Montana, Idaho and Washington, was one of the first pioneers. Ex-Chief Justice W. Y. Pember- ton was one of the pick and shovel brigade. Judge Knowles, Judge Hedges, and many others who are now holding high positions were with us. Judge Frank HI. Woody is a Mon- tana pioneer, for he came to what is now Montana in 1856, when the western portion of this state was a part of Washing- ton Territory. Many of the leading lawyers that are now pleading at the bar of the state also have spoken in those "miner's courts which were held in the open air." Jack Fisk, Will H. and Robert N. Sutherlin and others who are to-day among the leading journalists of the state, were here before a single type was set. And there are scores of the veterans of early days, who, when the opportunity was given, have ranked themselves with the best business men of the state. When the roll is called of the self-made men of Montana, her pioneers will head the list.
And there were men who held divine services wherever the opportunity was given them; they were no cowards, either, for it took a pretty good man to fight the devil on his own half acre and whip him, too. I am glad to state that there are some of these old reverends "still in the ring."
Peace be to the memory of those who have gone to receive their rewards for the good work they have done. With all
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respect to the Christian people, Catholics and Protestants alike, they did considerable for Montana in the early days and more than anyone knows, for a great deal of their work was done in the "Sacred chamber" without making any noise. I now re- call two old prospectors who were up in the mountains search- ing for gold. After delving all day, they cooked and ate their supper, and then sat by the camp fire. One was telling about the dear ones at home, and that he was almost certain that they were thinking of him that very night. The other one spoke of his wife and three little children whom he had not seen for four years, but that he was writing to them constantly and he was receiving letters in return, and said he was in hopes of "striking it" soon and then he would go home. They sat up rather late that night; the moon had gone down, and the shade of the dark green pines made it still darker. It was in autumn when the leaves were falling. As the fire was getting low, they both went to bed side by side. It was a calm, still night; the rustling of the dead leaves that were strewn on the ground could be heard as some wild animal was passing their silent chamber, with occasionally the rumbling sound of a piece of rock which had broken loose from some distant cliff and went rolling down the mountain to the canyon below, re-echoed by the screeching of night birds, while the cataracts of many rip- ples swelled the midnight melody. Not a word was spoken for some time, each thinking that the other was asleep. But one began saying his evening prayers in a low, murmuring voice, which was as follows:
"Near the camp fire's flickering light In my blanket bed I lie, Gazing through the shades of night At the twinkling stars on high; O'er me spirits in the air Silent vigils seem to keep,
As I breathe my childhood prayer Now I lay me down to sleep! '
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"Sadly sings the whippoorwill In the boughs of yonder tree, Laughingly the dancing rill Swells the midnight melody ; Indians may be lurking near In the canyon dark and deep, Low I breathe in Jesus' ear I pray the Lord my soul to keep,
"'Mid the stars one face I see, One the Saviour called away, Mother, who, in my infancy, Taught my baby lips to pray, Her sweet spirit hovers here In this lonely mountain brake,
Take me to her, Saviour, dear, If I should die before I wake!'
"Fainter grows the flickering light As each ember slowly dies, Plaintively the birds of night Fill the air with saddening cries; Over me they seem to cry, 'You may nevermore awake,' Now I lisp, if I should die, I pray the Lord my soul to take !"
"Now I lay me down to sleep, 'I pray the Lord my soul to keep, If I should die before I wake, I pray the Lord my soul to take."
These things that I have mentioned indicate that there was much of the better element here in the early days, and also a great deal of intelligence among those who wore the buck- skin shirt, and to them a large portion of the credit should be given that Montana is today one of the brightest gems in our star spangled banner. ROBERT VAUGIIN.
March 4, 1899.
THE DARK SIDE OF THE LIFE OF THE PIONEER.
In another letter giving an account of Indian depredations, I stated: "I will not attempt to follow their war path, for it is too long," but allow me at this time to vary a little from that assertion. My object in doing so is to add to the already writ- ten history of this portion of the Northwest, where I have lived from my early manhood, and this portion of the country which was then in its infancy as far as civilization and settlement were concerned, therefore, to use a common expression, "we growed up together."
Though a frontier life is free and fascinating, still, like everything else, there is a dark side to it, and this letter is principally intended to show the "dark side" of the life of the pioneer.
As a frontiersman, I, myself, may not care to again expe- rience what I have passed through, yet, with all its perils and dangers I would not give my pioneer days in the West for all the balance of my life.
The following events occurred in Northern Montana. All are facts, and some of them I know of my own personal knowledge. Some of those whose names appear hereafter were killed by Indians, others died from exposure. I have often thought of the many victims that have fallen in the West; even their death never has been known nor heard of by any- one. Many remains of white men have been found without a trace of anything to lead to their identification.
Once there were three of us in the mountains prospecting. In a sheltered place under a projecting cliff there lay the
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skeleton of a man. It appeared that he had laid down to rest or to sleep. Nothing could be found to indicate whose remains it was. The clothing was weatherbeaten and torn, and an old silver watch and a gun laid on the ground with the scattering bones. The hair was light in color. It was one of those in- stances of "somebody's boy" dying without even a stranger to record his last words.
By examining the following list the reader will find that the identification or names of twenty per cent of the unfortu- nate victims herein mentioned were not known, and that all included in the list, except six or seven, were killed in what was then Choteau county. They are but few in comparison to all that were killed in what is now the state of Montana.
First on the list is Little Tex, who was killed in 1866 by Blood Indians at the agency on what was then known as the government farm, on Sun river; then Indians set fire to the buildings. There is no certainty as to the number that per- ished.
Early in the spring of 1866 three men were murdered by Blackfeet not far from old St. Peter's mission, which was then located on the Missouri river near Ulm on the Montana Central railroad. April 6th of the same year John Fitzgerald, an employe of the mission, was killed almost in sight of the buildings by Bloods. His grave and that of a man by the name of Johnson, a blacksmith, who was formerly at Fort Benton, and about fifteen other graves, mostly of Indians, are at the foot of the hill and near the Montana Central track, about half a mile from Ulm. The next day after the killing of Fitzger- ald, Father Giorda, and all the inmates of the mission left for Helena, fearing that more trouble might come.
Lagree and Hunicke were murdered by Blackfeet and Bloods at Three Tree Coulce, Jan. 9, 1866. James Chem- bers was killed by Blackfeet at Dearborn in 1866, and old man Thebeaw killed at Dearborn the same year.
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The murder of the builders of the town of Ophir occurred in May, 1865. Ophir was a new place located at the mouth of the Marias river, twelve miles below Fort Benton. At this period there had been only one or two houses built. The men, eleven in number, were about one mile above the location cut- ting logs and some of them were chopping wood for the steam- ers that were coming up the Missouri to Fort Benton. They were at work when the Indians killed them; not one escaped. When the news reached Fort Benton a party went and buried the unfortunate victims on the bank of the Missouri river near where they were killed. Thirty-four years have passed since then and the gradual cutting of the bank by the swift current has washed away that little graveyard, and now the resting place of these founders of states and builders of cities has been swept from the face of the earth and its occupants swallowed up by that mighty stream.
Six men were killed by Bloods on Old Man's river carly in 1865. The victims came from Fort Garry (now Winnipeg), and were reported to possess a large amount of money. Their leader was an old white-haired man.
William Berry was killed by Bloods on Elbow river, and Joe Monroe was killed by Bloods on Old Man's river in 1874.
Miller was killed by Bloods on Old Man's river in 1872.
McMillan was wounded by Assinnaboines, near Bow river, in 1874.
Two unknown men were killed by Assinnaboines, near Milk river, in 1874. The bodies were found tied to trees and rid- dled with bullets. Cottle and another man were killed in their house on Flat creek in 1877. The Nez Perces were supposed to be the murderers, as a few stragglers of that tribe were seen in the vicinity about the time the deed was done.
A party of men, women and children were killed by Bloods near Porcupine mountain in 1865. Their identification could not be obtained.
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A soldier was killed by Piegan Indians on Marias hill, not far from Fort Benton, in 1873.
Wey and Mitchell were killed by Piegans on Badger creek in 1875. Five days before they were killed, both stayed over night at my ranch and bought some oats to feed their horses while on this unfortunate prospecting trip.
Joe Day and Howard were killed by Piegans, near the Mar- ias river, in 1875.
John Rock was killed by Blackfeet, at the mouth of Sun river, in 1875. An account of him I have given in my let- ter "From the Mines to the Farm."
Jack Gorman and Frank Keisser were killed by Assinna- boines, on the Milk river, the same year.
Frank Robinson was killed by Gros Ventres Indians, near Cow creek, in 1877.
Joseph Spearson was killed by Bloods, on Belly river, in 1870.
Nelse Kyse, George Huber and one man, name unknown, were killed by Sioux Indians, on Squaw creek, near the month of Musselshell river.
Andy Harris was killed by Assinnaboines on Milk river in the winter of 1867, and a soldier was killed by Piegans at Camp Cook in the spring of that year.
Bozell A. Bair was wounded by Piegans on Eagle creek in 1867.
Paul Vermette was killed on the Teton river in 1866.
Champion was killed by Arrapahoe Indians at Fort Haw- ley in 1867.
Malcolm Clark was killed by Picgans in 1869. Clark had been a classmate of General Sherman's at West Point. The former, after finishing his term, instead of entering the army, came west as an employe of one of the fur companies which operated in the upper Missouri river country. After following
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the Indian trading business for many years he located in the Prickly Pear canyon, about twenty miles north of Helena, and kept a stage station. The place is now known as "The Mitchell Ranch." Once a party of Piegan warriors came to the premises. One of the Indians, who was well acquainted with Clark, approached the door and asked for the latter ; just as Clark stepped into the door he was shot and killed by this Indian. Several shots were fired into the house. A bullet struck Clark's wife, and one of his sons was shot in the nose; in course of time both recovered from their wounds, but the tragedy caused the mother to go insane and she died a few years ago still in that condition. Clark is buried near the house, and now his resting place is marked by a railing crown- ing the grave. A few months later the "Col. Baker Indian Mas- sacre on the Marias river" occurred. And when the firing com- menced on the Piegan camp the murderer of Clark was there sick in bed; when he was told that the soldiers had come there to kill him, he took a long knife and plunged it into his heart.
When General Sherman passed through this section in 1875 on his tour of inspection of the government posts at Fort Shaw and Benton, he stopped for dinner at Clark's old ranch. The general inquired for Malcolm Clark. He said that Clark had been a schoolmate of his at West Point, but had gone west to trade with the Blackfeet Indians while he was yet but a young man. When the story of Clark's career and of his death had been told, and the grave of his early associate shown him, he had been but a few moments on the spot when he showed signs of grief and requested to be left alone for a while. He stayed for some time and when he came away traces of tears could be seen on the cheeks of the brave old warrior.
Charles Carson was killed by Piegans, near Dearborn river, in 1866. He was a nephew of Kit Carson, of frontier fame. He was killed and buried near the ford on the Dearborn.
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Mrs. Jennie Smith, who at one time lived in Helena, was scalped alive by Sioux Indians at the mouth of Musselshell river in 1869. The unfortunate woman recovered and was still living in 1879.
Jack Leader was killed by Sioux at the mouth of the Mus- selshell river in 1869.
A man named Lowe was killed by Blackfeet. His remains are buried on the old Helena and Benton road at the crossing of what is now known as "Deadman Coulee." The place re- ceived its name because it is the place of the death and burial of Mr. Lowe.
Macgregor and Tabor were killed by Sioux, and another man wounded, near Fort Peck in 1868. Also two unknown men were killed by Sioux near the same place and in the same year.
Ross and McKnight were killed in 1868, by Sioux, at the mouth of Musselshell river. McKnight was a brother to the Hon. J. H. McKnight of this city. At the time the tongue of their wagon had broken, and, while they were cutting a tree to make a new one, they were killed.
Nat Crabtree was killed by Piegans, near Camp Cook, in 1868.
Old man Lee was killed, and Charley Williams and Drew Denton wounded by Sioux, near Carroll, 1870. Denton's life was saved by the bullet striking his pocket in which he had a plug of tobacco and some letters.
A Frenchman was killed by Piegans in the summer of 1868 on Sun river, south of where now stands Pressle Rowls house.
McArdle and a comrade were killed by Crow Indians near Benton in 1869.
Tom Ross was killed by Sioux near Fort Peck in 1873.
Michael Thebault was killed by Piegans on the Teton in 186S.
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James Quail was killed by Piegans, near Silver creek, in 1869. Ile was killed only half a mile from where I was min- ing at the time, and about nine miles from Helena. He was getting his horse, which was grazing on the slope of a hill near his cabin, when he was shot and killed by an Indian who robbed him of his horse and of a gold watch on which his name was engraved. The watch was seen afterwards in the possession of an Indian in a Piegan camp on the Marias river.
Clark was killed by Piegans on Sun river in 1868, of whom I have given an account in my letter, "Indian wars and trag- edies on Sun river."
Dauphant was killed by Sioux near the mouth of Milk river in 1865.
Charley Desronin was killed by Indians near the Bear Paw mountains in 1870.
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