Compendium history and biography of North Dakota; a history of early settlement, political history, and biography; reminiscences of pioneer life, Part 6

Author:
Publication date: 1900
Publisher: Chicago, G.A.Ogle
Number of Pages: 1432


USA > North Dakota > Compendium history and biography of North Dakota; a history of early settlement, political history, and biography; reminiscences of pioneer life > Part 6


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In the autumn of 1731, the party reached Rainy Lake, by way of the Nantouagan, now Pigeon river. At that time this stream was known to the French as Groselliers river, after a noted explorer of this region.


Father Messayer, who had been located at a mission at the mouth of the Pigeon river, on Lake Superior, was taken along as spiritual director. At the foot of Rainy Lake a post was erected and called Fort St. Pierre. In 1732 the party crossed Lake Minittie, or Lake of the Woods, and established Fort St. Charles on its southwestern shore. On the Assinaboine river, about five leagues from Lake Winnipeg, they established another post. A map of these regions, made by De la Jemeraye, is still in the possession of the French government. The Winnipeg river was called by them Maure- pas, after the famous minister of France, at that time in power. Their right to the possession of the river and surrounding country they protected by a fort of the same name.


Here their further advance was stopped for want of provisions and other supplies. But an arrangement was made, April 12, 1735. for a new equipment and another son of Verendrye joined the expedition. This was the fourth. In June, 1736, while twenty-one of the little force were camped upon an island in the Lake of the Woods, they were surprised by a band of Nadouessioux, or Sioux, and all killed. The island perpetuates


this crime in its name of Massacre island. The bodies were found a few days after the event and buried. They were all dead and had been scalped. Father Ouneau, according to the journal of Ver- endrye, a missionary priest, who was with them, was found upon one knee, an arrow in his head, his breast bare, his left hand touching the ground and his right uplifted to the heavens, as if calling for protection upon his Maker. Among the slain, too, was one of the sons of Verendrye, their leader, who had been tomahawked. His father was at the foot of the same lake when he heard of the murder of his son, and about the same time received the news of the death of his nephew,Dufrost de la Jemeraye. The latter was a bold and enterprising man, and was a strong support to his uncle who missed him much in his subsequent wanderings. It was under the guidance of Jeremaye that the expedition had overcome the difficulties of the navigation of Pigeon river in the early days of their exploration. These were so great as to daunt anyone less energetic and strong-minded than he.


On the 3rd of October, 1738, they built a fort on the Assiniboine, which stream they called Charles river, after Charles Beauharnois, the gov- ernor general of New France. This advance post they called Fort La Reine or Queen's fort. A short distance from this point the river was joined by another, to which they gave the name of Pierre river after their leader. The latter fort became the center of trade and point of departure for all fu- ture exploring parties.


By their ascending the Assinaboine river to the mouth of the Souris or Mouse river, and then up the latter, these hardy explorers crossed what is now the international boundary line just west of Turtle mountains. Although this is not certain, the reading of the account justifying the writer in thinking it was further to the east. As it was, however, it was the first time that the foot of white men are known to have been planted upon the soil of what is now North Dakota; the first time civil- ized eyes had beheld its plains, its hills and its valleys. That is unless there is some truth in the story of Coronado, one of Cortez's lieutenants' visit to this far-off land when upon his long expe- dition to the north early in the sixteenth century, which is very doubtful. The first authentic ex- pedition into North Dakota was under the com- mand of Verendrye himself, and took place in 1741. It penetrated into the land of the Man- tanes or Mandans, or whitebeards. a people who


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are said at that time to have had seven villages, with pine stockades, strengthened by a ditch, and were partially civilized. On the 29th of April, 1741, an expedition under the command of the two elder sons of Verendrye, left the Lake of the Woods and going westward followed in the tracks of the former expedition, arriving at the Missouri river and later at the Yellowstone. These rivers they passed safely and came in sight of the Rocky mountains January 1, 1743. On the 12th of the same month the chevalier, or second son of Veren- drye, ascended the mountains for some distance; his brother being some distance behind and in charge of the train. On their homeward march, after visiting among the various tribes of the in- tervening country, trying to open up trade rela- tions with them, the expedition reached their point of departure. On their way, on the upper Mis- souri, in what they call "the country of the Petite Cerise (little cherry) tribe," they planted, on an eminence, a leaden plate bearing the arms of France, and raised a monument of stones, which point they called Beauharnois. From there they returned to the Lake of the Woods. After some years of varied fortunes the Sieur de la Veren- drye died, when just about to start on a new ex- ploring expedition, December 6, 1749. He was singularly unfortunate, and notwithstanding his labors, and the toils and labors of his children, he died much poorer than when he embarked in the business of adding empire to the possessions of his king. He bore the main part of the expense of his expeditions himself, it being expected that he could recoup himself from trade with the In- dians. None of the Dakota streams or towns bear his name in recognition of his great services nor commemorate the fact of his being the first Ettro- pean to tread its soil.


Probably others of these semi-military, semi- fur trading adventures may, possibly, have visited the northern part of North Dakota, in the succeeding years, but if so we have no account of them. The proximity of their trading posts around Lake Win- nipeg and along the Assiniboine and Saskatche- wan rivers certainly favors the supposition.


EXPEDITIONS OF DAVID THOMPSON.


The next, of moment, to visit this country was, in all probability, David Thompson, the surveyor, geographer and astronomer of the Northwest Company. He was an Englishman by birth, prob-


ably of humble parentage. He was, for seven years, a member of Christ Church Hospital school, in London. This was known as the Blue Coat School. In May, 1784, he was appointed a clerk to the Hudson's Bay Company, and was sent to Fort Churchill, then in charge of Samuel Herne, a na- tive of London, England. After his term of serv- ice with the Hudson's Bay Company had expired Thompson entered the employ of the Northwest Company, and was commissioned to proceed to the Missouri river country and the headwaters of the Mississippi and make geographical and astronom- ical observations. After various work done in and about the Saskatchewan river, on the 28th of No- vember, 1797, Thompson left McDonnel's post, in latitude forty-nine degrees, forty minutes, fifty-six seconds, on the Assiniboine river, for his journey to the Missouri. His little company was made up of seven French Canadian voyageurs, Rene Jussome, the interpreter, Hugh McCracken, an Irishman, and A. Brossman, a servant. Taking up the trail they, thirty-three days after, reached the Mandan vil- lages on the Pekitanoni or Missouri river. Here Thompson and his party remained a short time, making observations and writing up his journal, surrounded by this partially semi-civilized tribe, who were advanced enough in the mechanic arts to make pottery ; he made several short trips to the surrounding country. In returning, he says he went to Dog Tent hill, which bore, north twenty- eight degrees east from the camp on the Missouri, and was distant fifty miles. From there to Turtle Hill, fourteen miles; thence to the Ash House, on the Souris or Mouse river, twenty-four miles, and thence to the McDonnel post, from which he started, north sixty-nine degrees east, forty-five miles. Thompson made another trip into the northern part of North Dakota in the following spring. He had started out on a surveying ex- pedition on the 26th of February, 1798, with three Canadians and an Indian guide. They had with them three sleds drawn by dogs. The junction of the Mouse river with the Assiniboine was about half a mile from the McDonnel post, which was, as before, his point of departure. The snow was found quite deep, and the guide had to rest and be relieved every two or three hours. Following down the Assiniboine, on the 7th of March, the little party reached the junction of that stream with the Red river of the North, and began its survey. We are told in Mr. Thompson's journal, that, that day the sleds fell into the river, so, that


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about three o'clock in the afternoon, they were compelled to stop. The next day proved very tempestuous, snowing heavily, and it was very difficult to make any headway in traveling. The Indian guide became exhausted and Mr. Thomp- son, who seemed to be built of sterner stuff, took the lead. When night overtook him he was obliged to bivouac in the snow, the train being behind some miles. He passed the night, a very cold one, with- out shelter, in the open air. On Saturday, the 10th of March, it was clear, but cold, and about 8:30 A. M. the men with the train came up, and all that day was spent in drying their clothes and their goods.


The next morning, Sunday, the 11th, they started and walked by the compass to the tent poles of three lodges of Chippewas, of whom they were in search and who had passed a week before. Still pursuing the moving savages the trail was followed to the river, where it was lost in an im- mense snow drift. Shortly after noon the trail was recovered and the party set forth again. On Mon- day the Chippewas were found and two of them were prevailed upon to go with Mr. Thompson to the company's post on the Pembina river. Mr. Thompson says this river, which he calls the Sum- mer Berry, derives its name from the red berries which so profusely line its banks, called by the Chippewas, Nepin, Summer, and Minan, berry. This the voyaguers and others had abbreviated to Pembina.


On the 14th of March he reached the post of the Northwest Company, at that time in charge of Charles Chaboullier, and there remained some six days recuperating after the exhausting journey through the snow, and waiting for more propitious weather. While at this place he took the necessary observations and found that the post was located in forty-eight degrees, fifty-four minutes, twenty- four seconds north latitude, ninety-seven degrees, sixteen minutes, forty seconds longitude west from Greenwich. This threw it south of the boundary of the British possessions. March 21st Mr. Thompson resumed his survey of the Red river, proceeding southward, and in latitude forty- seven degrees, fifty-four minutes, twenty-one seconds north latitude and longitude ninety-six de- grees, niseteen minutes west, reached the trad- ing post of Baptiste Cadotte, where he remained until the advent of spring and the breaking up of the ice in the river. This post was east of the river in what is now Minnesota. From there,


April 9, he started to survey the headwaters of the Mississippi river. This terminated his connec- tion with the annals of North Dakota. He after- wards became quite a noted explorer in the west and northwest and is spoken of by Franchere and by Washington Irving in their histories of the Astoria settlement as among the very earliest ex- plorers of the upper waters of the Columbia river. The latter tells of his arrival at Astoria in July, 18II, in a canoe carrying the English flag. He says :


"On coming to the land, one of the crew stepped on shore and announced himself as David Thomp- son, astronomer, and partner of the Northwest Company. According to his account, he had set out in the preceding year with a tolerably strong party and a supply of Indian goods, to cross the Rocky mountains. A part of his people had, how- ever, deserted him on the eastern side and returned with the goods to the nearest Northwest post. He had persisted in crossing the mountains with eight men who remained with him. They had traversed the higher regions, and ventured near the source of the Columbia, where, in the spring, they had constructed a cedar canoe, the same in which they had reached Astoria. * *


* Mr. Thompson was, no doubt, the first white man who descended the northern branch of the Columbia from so near its source." He died in 1857 at the advanced age of eighty-nine.


EXPEDITION OF ALEXANDER HENRY.


Alexander Henry also was among the earliest visitors to Dakota. He was one of the partners of the Northwest Company and although of a limited education, his pen was that of a ready writer and his descriptions are graphic. From the unpub- lished journal of Mr. Henry some extracts may be of interest. After telling an interesting story of his adventures up to this time, he, under date of September 3, 1800, relates how he left half of the goods at the post he had established near the pres- ent site of Winnipeg, and started for the upper part of the Red river of the North. He was ac- companied by Desmarrais, Bellagard, Roger, Benoit La Roque, Beauchman, Le France, Barbe, Char- boneau, McDonnell and Parais. In his journal he writes under date of September 5, Friday :


"Early this morning I sent off the canoes, when DemarraĆ­s, and myself proceeded by land ; we came to the Pambian (Pembina) river and crossed over


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to the old fort which was built in 1797-8 by M. Chabouiller, opposite the entrance of the Red river. On the east side of the Red river are the ruins of the old fort, built by Peter Grant some years ago, and which was the first establishment upon the Red river.


"September 6th .- At the Bois Perie, near where we are encamped, has been a great crossing for many years (he means wild game). The ground on both sides is beaten as hard as a pave- ment and the numerous roads leading to the river, a foot deep, are surprising, and when I consider the hard sod through which these tracks are beaten, I am entirely at a loss and bewildered in attempt- ing to form any idea of the numerous herds of buffalo which must have passed here.


.


"Monday, 8th .- At 8 o'clock sent the canoes off, while Desmarrais and myself hurried off on horseback. We saw here the buffalo, all in mo- tion, crossing from the east to the west side, di- recting their course to the Hair hills. We chased several herds, and had fine sport, but only killed two fat cows, and took a small load down to the river, for the canoes to take in as they passed. Here I lost one of my spurs. Having brought the meat near the river, we set out and did not stop until we reached the Park river, at 2 o'clock. We tied our horses at the entrance of the little river, and went out to search for a proper spot to build, as the, Indians would not ascend the Red river any higher. My men, also, began to murmur very much, and even Desmarrais, who is an old veteran, one of the first who ever came up this river. We went up the river about a mile and attempted to drink, but found the water a perfect brine. I now find it impossible to build here, even if the wood had been more proper.


"Tuesday, 9th .- Early this morning I went out in search of a proper place to build. I found none so well situated for defense, and wood at hand, as a point of woods on the west side of the Red river within a quarter of a mile of the little ( Park) river, a beautiful level plain whch divides us from that river."


Under a later date Mr. Henry says:


"January 17, 1801 .- We had a terrible snow storm. I can now daily count from the top of my oak tree from twenty to thirty herds of buf- falo feeding out on the plains. It is surprising how the cow buffalo resist the cold, piercing north winds, which at times blow with such violence over these bleak plains, which cause such a drift


that it is impossible to face it for any time. Still the animals will stand grazing in the open field. * *


"April Ist, Wednesday .- The river clear of ice, but the drowned buffalo continue to drift down by entire herds. Several of them were lodged upon the bank near the fort. The Indian women have cut up some of the fattest for their own use. The flesh appears to be fresh and good. It really is as- tonishing what vast quantities must have perished, as they form one continual line in the middle of the river for two days and two nights."


On the 4th of May Mr. Henry started north with the result of the winter's hunt. He sent off, that day, three canoes with forty-five packs of ninety pounds each. On the 15th he planted a garden on the north side of the Pembina river, where he established a new post, at a point be- tween the stream and the Red river. This seems to be the first account we have of any white per- son trying to cultivate the soil of the Red river valley. He slept that night in the old fort on the south side. On the 29th he left the post in charge of M. Langlois and proceeded to Grand Portage on Lake Superior. He did not return until Sep- teniber.


In his journal, under date of October 3, 1802, Mr. Henry writes the following description of the first Red river cart train :


"M. Langlois started for Hair Hills. This caravan demands notice to exhibit the vast differ- ence it makes in a place where horses are intro- duced. It is true they are useful animals, but, if we had but one in the northwest we should have less, laziness for men would not be burdened with families, and so much given to indolence and in- solence. *


* But let us now take a view of * the bustle and noise which attends the present transportation of five pieces of goods. The men were up at the break of day, and their horses tackled long before sunrise, but they were not in readiness to move before ten o'clock, when I had the curiosity to climb up to the top of my house to examine the movements and observe the order of march. Anthony Payet, guide and second in command, leads off with a cart drawn by two horses, and loaded with his own private baggage, bags and kettles. Madame Payet follows the cart with a child one year old on her back, and verymerr.y C. Bottineau, with two horses and a cart loaded with one and a half packs, his own baggage, two young children with kettles and other trash hanging


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to his cart. Madam Bottineau, with a young squall- ing child on her back, which she is scolding and toss- ing about.


"Joseph Dubord goes on foot, with his long pipestem and calumet in his hand. Madam Du- bord follows her husband carrying his tobacco pouch.


"Anthony Thelliere, with a cart and two horses loaded with one and a half packs of goods and Dubord's baggage.


"Anthony LoPoint, with another cart and two horses loaded with two piece's of goods and bag- gage belonging to Brisbois, jessemin and Poul- liote, and a kettle suspended on each side. Jesse- min goes next to Brisbois with gun, and pipe in mouth, puffing out clouds of smoke. Mr. Poulliote, the greatest smoker in the northwest, has nothing but pipes and pouch. These three fellows, having taken the farewell dram and lighting fresh pipes, go on, brisk and merry, playing numerous pranks. Dom Livermore, with a young mare, the property of M. Langlois, loaded with weeds for smoking, and an Indian bag. Madame's property, and some squashes and potatoes, and a keg of fresh water and two young whelps.


"Next comes the young horse of Livermore, drawing a traville with his baggage, and a large worsted mashqueucate belonging to Madame Langlois. Next appears Madame Cameron's young mare, kicking and roaring, hauling a tra- ville which was loaded with a bag of flour and some cabbage, turnips, onions, a small keg of water and a large bottle of broth. M. Langlois, who is master of the band, now comes, leading a horse that draws a traville nicely and covered with a new painted tent, under which is lying his daughter and Mrs. Gameron, extended full length and very sick. This covering or canopy has a very pretty effect. Madam Langlois now brings up the rear; follow- ing the traville with a slow step and melancholy air, attending to the wants of her daughter. The rear guard consisted of a long train of dogs, twenty in number. The whole forms a string nearly a mile long and appears like a large band of Assini- boines."


In July, 1806, Alexander Henry and his brother William, in company with two men and a horse, left Pembina for the Missouri river. At Lake Platz they found a Mr. Darwin located. Shortly after this the party reached the Mandan villages. Mr. Henry's description of these people should be published as it gives a graphic account of the


mode of life at that date of these curious people, now almost exterminated. He, from there, went further west and visited the Gros Ventre tribes, after which he returned to Pembina.


LEWIS AND CLARK EXPEDITION.


About the time of the consummation of the Louisiana purchase, Thomas Jefferson, then presi- dent of the United States, determined to thoroughly explore the northwestern part of the newly-ac- quired territory, of which nothing at that time was known, with the purpose of ascertaining its resources and value. Accordingly, by direction of General H. Dearborn, at that time secretary of war, a party of men were ordered to rendezvotis at the mouth of the Wood river, in Illinois, for that purpose. Captain Merriwether Lewis, of the First United States Infantry, and Captain William Clark, a brother of the famous Revolutionary General George Rogers Clark, were selected by the depart- ment to lead the expedition. This consisted of some forty-three persons altogether, soldiers, boatsmen, guides, hunters and interpreters. May 14, 1804, the party embarked in two pirogues and one bat- teau and proceeded on their long voyage up the Missouri river, whose turbid tide rolls down from the high Rockies. About twenty miles above the present site of the city of Council Bluffs, Iowa, the expedition made a halt, and there held a palaver or council with the Indians. This was on the Ne- braska side of the river, and the place was called in the journal of the party, Council Bluffs, from which the Iowa city drew its name. On the 18th of August, the same year, after having accomplished nearly a thousand miles of their journey and hav- ing had many strange adventures, the expedition landed on the Nebraska side of the river, nearly opposite what is now the southwest corner of Woodbury county, Iowa, and went into camp. Here they held another council and entered into a treaty with a party of Otoe and Missouri Indians. On the morning of the 20th the savages mounted their horses and left after receiving some presents. The day before this Sergeant Charles Floyd, one of the little party, became very sick and remained so all night. The next morning, which was Mon- day, August 20, the expedition set out on its jour- ney up the river. Having to use their own words, "a fine wind and fine weather." they made some thirteen miles, and at two o'clock landed upon the Iowa side of the river, for dinner. Here Sergeant


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Floyd died. About a mile further up the river, on the summit of a high bluff, his body was buried. with all the honors, by his comrades. This was the first death among the party. A short distance above Sergeant's Bluff, as the place of burial is now called, a small river, now within the limits of Sioux City, Clark gave the name of Floyd river. The next day they resumed their progress. On the 21st of August they passed the mouth of the Big Sioux, and, a few days later, the mouth of the James river (called in their journal Jacques river ), where they found bluffs that contained "a great quantity of mineral, cobalt, cinnabar, alum, copperas and several other things." On the 19th and 20th of September they passed the Grand Bend in the Mis- souri, as they named it, now in South Dakota be- tween Hughes and Buffalo counties. They reck- oned the distance around it as equal to thirty miles, while across the narrow neck of land it was less than'a mile. October 7 they passed the mouth of the Moreau river, which was known as the Cer- wer-cer-na, which they found to be some two hun- dred and seventy feet wide at its mouth, with a deep, clear channel. Here they found a camp of Arickarees. The mouth of the Grand river was passed by them on the 8th of the same month. This was known to theni as the Marapa, for it seemed from their journal that all these streams had names, either in Indian, French or English, showing that others had been before them. About this region they encountered several bands and vil- lages of Arickarees, with whom they made a treaty and from whom they purchased vegetables, such as squashes, beans and corn. About the 12th of Oc- tober the expedition passed what is now the southern boundary line of North Dakota, and on the 18th, after many vexatious delays and some accidents, owing to easterly winds and some sand bars, they reached the mouth of the Cannon Ball river. Snow fell on the 21st of October when they were near the present site of Bismarck. Game, especially buffalo and antelope, were plentiful and considerable hunting was done by the party. The river now known as the Little Heart, they knew as the Chischeet. On the 24th, when they were, ac- cording to their reckoning, about 1,610 miles above the mouth of the Missouri river, they encountered the first Mandan Indians they had seen. On the 27th they reached some of their villages and, two days later, held a council with them, at which were present some Sioux and a member of Minneteere or Gros Ventre tribe. Winter now was approach-




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