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IQD (White Mountains)
Willey
WHITE MOUNTAIN NOTCHI - MORNING AFTER THE WILLEY SLIDE.
HISTORY
OF THE
WHITE MOUNTAINS:
TOGETHER WITH
MANY INTERESTING ANECDOTES ILLUSTRATING LIFE IN THE BACKWOODS,
BY BENJAMIN G. WILLEY.
NEW AND REVISED EDITION, WITH ILLUSTRATIONS,
BY
FREDERICK THOMPSON.
NEW YORK: PUBLISHED BY HURD AND HOUGHTON. Cambridge: Riverside Press. 1870.
P.S.
Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1869, by RACHEL M. WILLEY,
in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the District of New Hampshire.
RIVERSIDE, CAMBRIDGE : PRINTED BY H. O. HOUGHTON AND COMPANY.
PREFACE TO THE NEW EDITION.
THIS work, which has been out of print for the past ten years, was first published in 1855. Within the last few years there has been an extensive call for the same, and to supply this demand I have revised and prepared this edition, which I now offer to the public.
The prime object of this work was not so much to supply a Guide to the Mountains as an authentic History of the same ; and in preparing this edition I have kept this in view, and retained as far as possible the original text of the author, making such changes and additions only as the present seemed to demand.
I take this opportunity to thank those persons who have rendered assistance in preparing the work for press ; and especially I acknowledge the kindness of Mr. Thomas Hill, in allowing an engraving of his fine paint- ing, representing the "Notch " the morning after the slides, which is placed as a frontispiece to this work.
HARTFORD, CONN., May 6, 1870.
F. T.
AUTHOR'S PREFACE.
ALMOST invariably the question is asked me, on an in- troduction to a stranger, " Are you a connection of the family destroyed at the White Mountains ?" and, on learning that I am, the question is almost certain to fol- low, " What were the facts in regard to their destruc- tion ? "
The frequency of the inquiry, and the apparent in- terest with which the narration of that fearful scene has been listened to, have led me to suppose that a par- ticular account of that terrible storm, and the destruc- tion of my brother's family, would be interesting to the public. Travellers have long needed a Book of the Mountains ; and so pressingly have I been urged to un- dertake such a book, that the above fact, the abundance of material, and the thought that I might benefit myself, and supply an existing want, has induced me to under- take the task. How I have succeeded others will judge. It was not undertaken as a literary effort, but a simple narration of facts. Are they intelligible ? is my only inquiry. When I commenced, there was no book on the
vi
AUTHOR'S PREFACE.
White Mountains, save a small work by Mrs. Crawford, widow of the late Ethan A. Crawford. That was out of print, and had been so for years. When my man- uscript was nearly completed, a small book on the White Mountains came out, by Mr. John H. Spaulding ; but it does not conflict with mine. B. G. W.
EAST SUMNER, ME., Sept., 1855.
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
THE MOUNTAINS.
The extent and location of the mountains .- Their height and the great distance at which they are seen .- The Indian names .- The origin of these names .- Dr. Belknap's description .- The early visitors .- Vines' and Gorge's visit .- Josselyn's account of his visit .- The central group of mountains .- Heights of different summits .- Gate of the Notch .- Notch .- Mount Webster .- Giant's Grave .- View from Giant's Grave .- The tops of the mountains .- The foliage on their sides .- The vegetation on the higher summits .- The shad- ows of clouds .- Insects on the mountains .- Birds .- The dead trees .- The mountains during a storm - as seen by moonlight - as seen in winter .- The sides .- View from the summit of Mount Washington .- View at sunrise .- Indian tradition, 13
CHAPTER II.
MOUNTAINS CONTINUED.
The many objects of interest .- The great gulf .- Oakes' gulf .- Tuckerman's ravine .- Snow cavern .- Source of the many springs on the mountains .- Saco and Merrimac rivers .- Ellis and Peabody rivers .- Cascades .- Silver cascades .- The flume .- The devil's den .- Crystal falls .- Glen Ellis falls .- Ammonoosuc .- Falls of the Ammonoosuc .- Franconia mountains. - Mount Lafayette. - Eagle cliff. - Cannon mount .- Old Man of the Mountains .- Profile lake .- Optical illusions from Cannon mount. - Echo lake. - The basin .- The flume .- The pool .- Narrow escape from a fall into the pool, 28
CHAPTER III.
THE INDIANS.
The Uncertainty of the many traditions .- The superstitions of the Indians .- Probable cause of those superstitions .- Tradition of a flood .- Great treas- ures of gold and gems .- Search for treasures .- The particular tribes inhab-
VIII
CONTENTS.
iting the mountains .- Indian relics in Conway - In Ossipee - in Fryburg -The Sokokis .- Their destruction by the pestilence. - Account of Vines of his visit to them .- Squando .- Death of his child .- Assacumbuit .- Visit to France. - Destruction of Haverhill. - Polan. - Whittier's verses on his burial .- Chocorua .- His curse .- Anasagunticooks .- Their chiefs .- Hon. Enoch Lincoln's interest in Indians of this region .- Visit of Gov. Lincoln to Natalluck .- Indian myth .- The little Indian infant .- Curious marriage 42 custom,
CHAPTER IV.
COOS COUNTY.
Coos as a farming county .- The opinion of Hon. Isaac Hill .- Dr. Dwight's account of the climate .- The many and peculiar shapes of towns .- Kil- kenny .- Pilot and Willard mountains .- Story of Willard and his dog .- Randolph .- Extensive views from Randolph .- Ascent of Mount Jefferson .- Great danger in a storm .- View from Jefferson .- Jefferson .- Beautiful sit- uation of Jefferson .- Brothers Glines .- Colonel Whipple .- His yearly visit to Portsmouth .- Story illustrating his care of his townsmen .- His capture by the Indians, and escape .- Mr. Gotham .- The importance of the discov- ery of the Notch .- Nash's discovery of the pass .- Gov. Wentworth .- Get- ting a horse through the defile .- Sawyer .- "Sawyer's Rock."- Mountain carriages .- Barrel of tobacco .- Barrel of rum .- Cutting the road through 58 the Notch .- Hart's location,
CHAPTER V. EARLY SETTLERS.
Early settlement of the locations. - Capt. Rosebrook. - Monadnuc. - Mrs. Rosebrook .- Scarcity of salt .- Great crops .- Removal from Monadnuc .- Settlement at Guildhall .- Mrs. Rosebrook's adventure with the Indians .- Removal to Nash and Sawyer's location .- Difficulty of finding his house in the drifts of snow .- Want of provisions .- His energy .- Cancer .- His death .- Ethan Allen Crawford, the giant of the mountains - His early youth .- Hardships .- The treacherous servant, . 75
CHAPTER VI. ETHAN A. CRAWFORD.
Mr. Crawford's impressive manner of story-telling .- The burning of his build- ings .- His energy in repairing his losses .- His labors as a guide on to the mountains .- The difficulty formerly of reaching the mountains .- Story illus- trating difficulty of travelling in those days .- Present modes of reaching mountains .- First ascent of the mountains .- Party of students from Frx-
IX
CONTENTS.
burg .- Ease of ascending now .- First bridle-path .- Ethan's severe wound. - Granny Stalbard .- Carriage-road from Glen House .- Love of Hunting .- The gray cat .- Adventures with them .- Lassos and captures one with birch poles .- Wolves .- His annoyance and discomfiture by them .- Bear stories. - Catching the cub .- Capture of a full-grown bear, 83
CHAPTER VII.
THE CRAWFORD FAMILY.
Mr. Crawford's early death .- A remarkable man .- The Crawford family .- Abel Crawford .- Mrs. Crawford .- Her bravery during the night of the slides .- " Crawford House."-Death of Mr. Strickland on the mountains .- Danger of ascending mountains without guide .- Party of students lost on mountains .- Nancy's brook .- Story of Nancy. - Superstitions connected with the spot where she was found .- Owl story .- Beautiful auroral display 95 at the Notch,
CHAPTER VIII.
THE SLIDES.
The effect of the turnpike upon travel through the Notch .- Coos teamsters .- Pleasure travel .- Want of public houses .- The first house built at the Notch .- Moving of Mr. Willey to the Notch .- The first winter after his removal .- The first slide in June .- The fears of Mr. Willey and his family. - The great storm .- The great drought previous to the storm .- Theory of slides .- The first signs of the storm .- The gathering of the clouds about the mountains, as seen from Conway .- Night of the disaster .- Very peculiar appearance of the mountains about midnight .- Rapid rise of the Saco in Conway .- First discovery of slides .- First news from the Notch .- The shrill voice in the darkness .- The confirmation of the first report .- The manner of communicating the news .- The trumpet at midnight .- Setting out for Notch .- Condition of the roads .- The appearance of the Saco valley .- Arrival at the " Willey House."-Search for the bodics .- Finding of some of the bodies .- Burial .- he prayer at the grave .- Finding of other bodies. - Oxen,-The first night spent in the house succeeding the storm, . . . 110
CHAPTER IX. THE SLIDES, CONTINUED.
The family dog .- The first conjecture in regard to manner of destruction .- Second conjecture .- Third conjecture .-- The dream .- Why all were de- troyed .- The mutilation of the bodies .- David Allen .- The great rise of water .- Their terrible situation during the storm .- The effect of a storm upon a family in the same house a year after .- The storm, 129
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER X.
THE SLIDES, CONCLUDED.
The storm as witnessed by one at the mountains .- The view from Bethlehem - Rapid rise of the Ammonoosuc .- Condition of Capt. Rosebrook's farm .- Slides as first seen .- Falls of the Ammonoosuc .- Difficulty of reaching Crawford's .- Attempt to ascend the mountains .- The camp .- Great destruc-
tion of trees, .141
CHAPTER XI.
BARTLETT.
General features .- Rocky branch .- Incident on its bank .- Incident of Ellis' river .- First settlement .- Loss of the horses .- Snow caverns .- Brothers Emery .- Humphrey's obstinacy .- Their perilous escape from freezing .- Hon. John Pendexter .- His removal from Portsmouth .- Children .- " Rais- ing" scene .- Mrs. Pendexter .- The great distance of a market .- Difficulty of reaching market .- Traps for catching wild animals .- The common log trap .- Figure four .- Pequawket mountain .- Adventure with a rattlesnake. - The " Chapel of the Hills."- Mrs. Snow .- Its dedication, . 147
CHAPTER XII.
JACKSON.
The valleys of the mountains .- The directions in which they run .- Moose pond. - Moose bathing .- Moose .- The Conway hunter .- The leap of a moose over a horse and sleigh .- Eagle ledge .- Mineral resources .- General . features of Jackson .- Benjamin Copp .- His endurance .- Mr. Pinkham's account of his first entrance into Jackson - The hog .- The house .- Scarcity of salt .- Incident of Capt. Vere Royce .- Tornado .- Expedient to save chil- dren .- Bear story .- Freewill Baptist society .- Elder Daniel Elkins, . 163
CHAPTER XIII.
CONWAY.
Beautiful scenery of Conway .- Autumnal foliage .- Attractions of Conway to hunters and early settlers .- Elijah Dinsmore .- Expedient to keep from starv- ing .- Story of Emery .- Great freshet .- Maple sugar .- Mr. Willey's en- counter with a bear .- Stephen Allard's bear story .- Schools .- Boys and the hogs. - Congregational church - Dr. Porter. - Baptist church. - Episcopal church - Chatauque. - North Conway. - Ledges. - Family burying-place. - Names of the family destroyed at the Notch. 174
XI
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER XIV.
FRYBURG.
The importance of Fryburg in early times .- The grant of town to Gen. Frye. -Conditions of the grant. - First settlers. - Their hardships. - Oliver Peabody .- Indians .- Sabatis .- Encounter with a catamount .- Love of the water .- Indians' love for Mr. Fessenden .- Old Phillip .- Fryburg expedi- tion to Shelburne. - Fryburg academy .- Buildings. - Preceptors. - Paul Langdon .- Daniel Webster .- Amos I. Cook .- Rev. William Fessenden .-
Marion Lyle Hurd, .189
CHAPTER XV. LOVEWELL'S FIGHT.
View from Pequawket mountain .- Lovewell's pond .- Sufferings of the early settlers in Dunstable. - Expedition to Winnipiseogee lake .- Expedition of Lovewell to Pequawket .- His company .- Encampment on the shore of the pond .- Situation of tho Indian village .- " Carrying place."- Discovery of the first Indian .- Kill the Indian .- The battle .- Retreat of Lovewell's men .- Chamberlain and Paugus .- Council at night .- Retreat .- Ensign Wyman and companions .- Mr. Frye .- Jones .- Farwell and Davis .- Traces of the battle .- The old ballad, . 204
CHAPTER XVI.
GILEAD.
Situation of Gilead .- Soil .- Wild river .- Early settlers .- Ministers. - First church .- Slide .- Bears .- Encounter of one Bean .- York's warm reception by a bear .- Oliver Peabody's loose ox .- Famine among bears .- Bear and hog story, . 222
CHAPTER XVII. SEGAR'S NARRATIVE.
Attack on Bethel .- Segar .- Indians .- Capture of Segar and companions .-- Mrs. Clark .- The journey to Canada .- Pettengill's house .- Hope Austin .- Capt. Rindge .- Murder of Poor .- Clark's escape .- Encampments at night. - Umbagog lake .- Sufferings from hunger .- Arrival at St. Francis' river. -Indian dance .- British protection .- Return home, . 234
CHAPTER XVIII.
SHELBURNE.
Situation of Shelburne .- Mountains .- Evening drive among the mountains .- Mount Moriah .- Moses' rock .- Granny Starbird's ledge .- Why so called.
XII
CONTENTS.
- Mineral wealth of this town .- Early settlers .- Mr. Daniel Ingalls .- Moses Ingalls .- Killing the devil .- Robert Fletcher Ingalls .- Sufferings of the early settlers .- Indian massacre .- Terrible encounter with wolves .- The famished soldier, . 244
CHAPTER XIX.
GORHAM.
White Mountain Indians .- Col. Clark .- Molly Ockett .- Peol Susup .- Indian eloquence .- Gorham .- Influence of the railroad upon it .- Alpine House. - Glen House .- Mount Washington road .- Carriages .- Building of the " Sum- mit House."- Weather on the summit in May .- Origin of Peabody river .- Wonderful endurance of cold, 258
CHAPTER XX.
ALBANY, FRANCONIA, AND BETHLEHEM.
Drake's version of Chocorua's curse .- Popular legend connected with this curse .- Cause of the disease among cattle in Albany .- Remedy for the dis_ ease .- Beavers .- Military incident .- Franconia .- Iron mine .- Extent of the mine. - Knight's moose story .- Village of Bethlehem .- View of the mountains from Bethlehem .- Early settlement .- First road to the White Mountains from Bethlehem .- Expedient to keep from freezing .- First town- meeting .- Building bridge over Ammonoosuc .- Scarcity of provisions .- Extremity to which inhabitants were driven .- Bethlehem of the present . 271 day, .
CHAPTER XXI.
GEOLOGY.
Indian theory of creation of world .- Indian idea of the creation of the White Mountains .- Dr. Jackson's theory .- Sir Charles Lyell's theory, . . 282
CHAPTER XXII.
TEMPERATURE OF THE MOUNTAINS.
Thermometrical table .- Synopsis of the weather .- Comparison of weather with Long Island weather. - Earthquakes .- Thunder-storms. - Wind. - Cold and frost .- Clearness of the atmosphere .- Length of days .- Springs. Combustion, . 291
CHAPTER XXIII.
Conclusion, .
. 300
CHAPTER I.
THE MOUNTAINS.
THE EXTENT AND LOCATION OF THE MOUNTAINS. - THEIR HEIGHT AND THE GREAT DISTANCE AT WHICH THEY ARE SEEN. - THE INDIAN NAMES. - THE ORIGIN OF THESE NAMES. - DR. BELKNAP'S DESCRIPTION. - THE EARLY VISITORS. - VINES' AND GORGE'S VISIT. - JOSSELYN'S ACCOUNT OF HIS VISIT. - THE CENTRAL GROUP OF MOUNTAINS. - HEIGHTS OF DIFFERENT SUMMITS. - GATE OF THE NOTCH. - NOTCH. - MOUNT WEB- STER. - GIANT'S GRAVE. - VIEW FROM GIANT'S GRAVE. - THE TOPS OF THE MOUNTAINS. - THE FOLIAGE ON THEIR SIDES. - THE VEGETATION ON THE HIGHER SUMMITS. - THE SHADOWS OF CLOUDS. - INSECTS ON THE MOUNTAINS. - BIRDS. - THE DEAD TREES. - THE MOUNTAINS DURING A STORM - AS SEEN BY MOONLIGHT - AS SEEN IN WINTER. - THE SLIDES. - VIEW FROM THE SUMMIT OF MOUNT WASHINGTON. - VIEW AT SUN- RISE. - INDIAN TRADITION.
" Mount Washington, I have come a long distance, have toiled hard to arrive at your summit, and now you seem to give me a cold reception." DANIEL WEBSTER.
THE White Mountains embrace the whole group of moun- tains in northern New Hampshire, extending forty miles from north to south, and about the same distance from east to west. The term has sometimes been applied exclusively to the central cluster, including the six or seven highest peaks, and very properly, though in its comprehensive sense
2
14
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
we think it should embrace the extended group. Mount Blanc and Mount Jura constitute not the whole of the Alps; neither do Washington and Monroe, the White Mountains. Clustering around their central height, like children of one large family, no merely arbitrary division should ever sepa- rate them.
These mountains are the highest land east of the Missis- sippi river, "and, in clear weather, are descried before any other land by vessels approaching our eastern coast; but, by reason of their white appearance, are frequently mistaken for clouds. They are visible on the land at the distance of eighty miles, on the south and south-east sides. They appear higher when viewed from the north-east, and it is said they are seen from the neighborhood of Chamblee and Quebec."
The Indian name of these mountains, according to Belknap, is Agiocochook. President Alden states that they were known to some of the more eastern tribes of Indians by the name Waumbekketmethna; Waumbekket, signifying white, and methna, mountains. And still other tribes gave them the appellation Kan Ran Vugarty, the continued likeness of a Gull. All these names, we see, have the same general meaning, and refer to the white appearance of the moun- tains.
" During the period of nine or ten months the mountains exhibit more or less of that bright appearance, from which they are denominated white. In the spring, when the snow is partly dissolved, they appear of a pale blue, streaked with white ; and after it is wholly gone, at the distance of sixty miles, they are altogether of the same pale blue, nearly ap- proaching a sky color ; while, at the same time, viewed at the distance of eight miles or less, they appear of the proper
15
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
color of the rock. Light fleecy clouds, floating about their summits, give them the same whitish hue as snow.
" These vast and irregular heights, being copiously replen- ished with water, exhibit a great variety of beautiful cas- cades ; some of which fall in a perpendicular sheet or spout ; others are winding and sloping; others spread, and form a basin in the rock, and then gush in a cataract over its edge. A poetic fancy may find full gratification amidst these wild and rugged scenes, if its ardor be not checked by the fatigue of the approach. Almost everything in nature, which can be supposed capable of inspiring ideas of the sublime and beautiful, is here realized. Old mountains, stupendous elevations, rolling clouds, impending rocks, verdant woods, crystal streams, the gentle rill, and the roaring torrent, all conspire to amaze, to soothe, and to enrapture."
These mountains were first visited in 1632, by one Darby Field, whose glowing account of the riches he had discovered on his return, caused others immediately to make the same exploration. The visit of a Mr: Vines and Gorges is thus described by Winthrop: "The report brought by Darby Field, of shining stones, &c., caused divers others to travel thither ; but they found nothing worth their pains. Mr. Gorges and Mr. Vines, two of the magistrates of Sir F. Gorges' province, went thither about the end of this month (August). They set out, probably, a few days after the return of Field, dazzled by visions of diamonds and other precious minerals, with which the fancy of this man had garnished his story.
"They went up Saco river in birch canoes, and that way they found it ninety miles to Pegwagget, an Indian town ; but by land it is but sixty. Upon Saco river they found many thousand acres of rich meadow ; but there are ten falls
16
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
which hinder boats, &c. From the Indian town they went up hill (for the most part), about thirty miles, in woody lands. Then they went about seven or eight miles upon shattered rocks, without tree or grass, very steep all the way. At the top is a plain, about three or four miles over, all shat- tered stones ; and upon that is another rock or spire, about a mile in height, and about an acre of ground at the top. At the top of the plain arise four great rivers; each of them so much water at the first issue as would drive a mill : Connect- icut river from two heads at the N. W., and S. W., which join in one about sixty miles off; Saco river on the S. E .; Amascoggin, which runs into Casco bay, at the N. E .; and the Kennebec at the N. by E. The mountains run east and west, thirty or forty.miles ; but the peak is above all the rest. They went and returned in fifteen days."
Josselyn, who visited them still later, has thus curiously described them : "Four score miles (upon a direct line), to the N. W. of Scarborow, a ridge of mountains runs N. W. and N. E., an hundred leagues, known by the name of the White Mountains, upon which lieth snow all the year, and is a landmark twenty miles off at sea. It is a rising ground from the sea-shore to these hills; and they are inaccessible, but by the gullies which the dissolved snow hath made. In these gullies grow saven bushes, which, being taken hold of, are a good help to the climbing discoverer. Upon the top of the highest of these mountains is a large level, or plain, of a day's journey over, whereon nothing grows but moss. At the further end of this plain is another hill, called the sugar- loaf - to outward appearance a rude heap of mossie stones, piled one upon another- and you may, as you ascend, step from one stone to another, as if you were going up a pair of stairs, but winding still about the hill, till you come to the
17
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
top, which will require half a day's time; and yet it is not above a mile, where there is also a level of about an acre of ground, with a pond of clear water in the midst of it, which you may hear run down; but how it ascends is a mystery. From this rocky hill you may see the whole country round about. It is far above the lower clouds ; and from hence we behold a vapor (like a great pillar), drawn up by the sun- beams out of a great lake, or pond, into the air, where it was formed into a cloud. The country beyond these hills, north- ward, is daunting terrible; being full of rocky hills, as thick as mole-hills in a meadow, and clothed with infinite thick woods."
The mountains which have more particularly attracted the attention of the tourists and writers, are near the northern boundary of the group, extending from the "Notch," a dis- tance of fourteen miles in a north-easterly direction. The different peaks of this cluster gradually increase in height from the outside to the centre, where towers Mount Wash- ington high above all. The lower and surrounding moun- tains are beautifully wooded to their very tops; while the bold Alpine summits of the central ones rise up far above the limits of vegetation, amid the clouds.
The heights of the different summits, as given by Professor Bond, of Cambridge, are, perhaps, the most accurate. Com- mencing at the "Notch," and giving the heights of each peak as it stands in the range, - Mount Webster is 4,000 feet above the level of the sea; Jackson, 4,100; Clinton, 1,200; Pleasant, 4,800; Franklin, 4,900; Monroe, 5,300; Washington, 6,500; Clay, 5,400; Adams, 5,700; Jefferson, 5,800; Madison, 5,400.
Approaching the central cluster from the south-east, the mountains gradually close upon you, until they come to- 2*
18
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
gether at the gate of the "Notch." This gate, or chasm, is formed by two rocks standing perpendicular at the distance of twenty-two feet from each other. Here, by great labor, a road has been constructed on the side of a little brook, whose rugged bed was formerly the only opening in the mountains. The entrance on each side is guarded by high overhanging cliffs, and the walls adjoining the road rise up perpendicularly fifty feet. This defile was known to the Indians, who formerly led their captives through it to Canada ; but it had been forgotten or neglected, till the year 1771, when two hunters (Nash and Sawyer) discovered and passed through it.
The Notch itself is a narrow pass, about three miles in length, running in a north-westerly direction, turning to the right a little at the northern extremity. The mountains here are abruptly torn apart, forming a very narrow valley, through which flows the Saco. "The sublime and awful grandeur of the Notch baffles all description. Geometry may settle the heights of the mountains, and numerical figures may record the measure ; but no words can tell the emotions of the soul, as it looks upward and views the almost perpendicular preci- pices which line the narrow space between them; while the senses ache with terror and astonishment, as one sees himself hedged in from all the world beside. He may cast his eye forward or backward, or to either side - he can see only upward, and then the diminutive circle of his vision is cribbed and confined by the battlements of nature's cloud-capt towers, which seem as if they wanted only the breathing of a zephyr, or the wafting of a straw against them, to displace them, and crush the prisoner in their fall."
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