USA > New Hampshire > Coos County > History of the White mountains > Part 13
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out puffs of steam, and when the molasses is in this stage it is nearly converted into sugar. Those who pay great attention to keeping the liquid free from scum, and under- stand the precise sugaring point, will produce an article little if at all inferior to Muscovado."
Two bear stories illustrate the life of the early inhabitants. The first was an encounter with a bear near my father's dwelling in Conway ; one which I faintly recollect, and one, too, in which my father was the principal actor. We give this in the language of my eldest brother, who was the son referred to in the description :-
" One night, in the summer of 1800, my father was waked from his sleep, by the noise of the sheep running furi- ously by his house. Springing from his bed to a window, he discovered, by the light of the moon, an enormous bear in close pursuit of them. Calling me instantly, then a boy about fourteen years old, we sallied forth with the gun, and nothing on but our night-clothes, to pursue this fell destroyer. By this time the sheep had made a turn, and were coming down toward the house, with the bear at their heels. Secret- ing ourselves a moment in a shed back of the house, until the sheep had passed, my father sprang forth with his gun. Old bruin, stopping to see what his ghostly visitor meant, was instantly fired at, and severely wounded. My father and myself, with our axes, offered him a closer combat, and he readily accepted the challenge. After two or three charges, we considered it the better part of valor to retreat to the house, which we did, closely pursued by the bear. While we were in the house, reloading the gun, the enraged animal crept up to the window, near the head of my father's bed. My mother, supposing the bear to be on the other side of the house, in attempting to look out through the window, put her
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head within a few inches of his nose. On discovering her per- ilous situation, she gave one of those piercing female shrieks which make the welkin ring, and fell back on the floor. By this time we had reloaded the gun, and now issued forth to renew the combat. But, owing to the bad state of the powder, we were unable to fire the gun again. Perceiving the bear to be gaining strength, and showing signs of an in- tention to retreat to the woods, after a few moments' consult- ation, we determined to make another desperate effort to kill him with our axes. My father, after receiving strong assurances that I would stand by him, approached the bear the second time, and drove the axe into his head up to the eye, and so finished him." This was a remarkable bear for size and boldness. He measured fourteen inches between his ears, was nine feet long from his nose to his tail. Though lean, he weighed seventy-five pounds a quarter. It was judged at the time that, if he had been fat, he would have weighed six hundred pounds. Instead of travelling in the woods, as most do, when he went from place to place, he often travelled in the public highway. On the very night in which my father had the encounter with him, and killed him, he was met by a man on horseback, on the main road."
A mile south of Conway Corner, on the road to Eaton, a small hill rises up very abruptly from a little pond of water. An early settler of Albany, a stout, athletic man, was ascend- ing this hill one intensely dark night. Near the summit, he came suddenly and unawares into the warm embrace of a big bear. The bear, more on the alert than himself, had snuffed his approach, and, to give him a cordial welcome, had risen on her hind legs and spread out her fore ones. The man immediately knew his antagonist, and a regular con- test in wrestling commenced between the two. The bear
16
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hugged, and the man tripped. By a dexterous trip, he at last threw the bear from her feet, and the two went down together. The hill was so steep that they commenced to roll over, first one top, and then the other, nothing stopping them until they tumbled splash into the pond. Crawling wet out of the water, neither felt inclined to renew the contest. The name of this man was Stephen Allard, a kind, peaceful citi- zen, or else certainly the neighborhood to him could never be an object of desire.
A view of some of the schools of our boyhood so well illustrates the difficulties and privations of the first settlers in educating their children, that we can but refer to them. We presume other towns might have afforded instances of as great or greater disadvantages than this town; but let Conway speak for the whole.
The first that now occurs to us was kept, literally, in a small opening in the woods. To reach it, most of the schol- ars had always to go in paths cut through the thick forest, and in " bad weather" on sleds drawn by oxen ; and when, by such means, they reached the house of instruction, it was very poor, and illy adapted to the end for which it was de- signed. It was contracted in dimensions, and rude in its construction. The walls were built of rough hemlock logs, grooved together at their ends, and covered with the bark of trees, and rude boards. The something that answered for a fire-place and chimney was constructed with poor bricks and rocks, together with sticks, laid up so as to form what was called a " catting," to guide the smoke. It was lighted by panes of glass placed singly in its wall. Rude, however, as it was in structure, many a contest in " spelling and cipher- ing" has taken place within its walls; and many tears have been shed, and bursts of applause shaken the very bark on
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its roof, at the successful performance of the "Conjurer," and " Neighbor Scrapewell."
Another school, and the last we shall specify, to illustrate the general character of schools half a century since, was kept, about that time, near the place of my birth. It was kept by a veteran teacher, peculiar in his habits and aspect, keen, fearless, and practised in his business. He kept in a house we shall not describe at great length. In a few words, it was contracted in its dimensions, uninviting in its general appearance, and open on its walls and floor, so that both the light and the winds of heaven could pass freely through it. Under the house the hogs had as free access as the light and the winds of heaven had into it above. This was their cher- ished place of resort; and they were there, too, every day, as regularly as the scholars were to the school. They greatly annoyed the teacher, but were as acceptable to most of the scholars as they were troublesome to him. Many were the scenes of amusement, during that school, which took place with these hogs. Sometimes, after lying and rolling on the ground awhile, grunting and growling as they rooted each other's sides, they would rise up, and, brushing along under the floor, carry their bristles up through the large cracks into plain sight of the scholars. Seeing these, one of them would creep along, when the master's eye was turned, and give them a sharp pull. Then immediately would come a squeal, and after that sharp words from the teacher. "Boys! let those hogs alone ; mind your studies." For a moment they would put their faces into their books, and seem content; but they would n't "stay put." There was a working of humor that must be gratified, and now was a good time to gratify it. Presently the bristles would be seen moving along again in the crack of the floor, and then would follow
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another pull, and then immediately another squeal. Now would come stronger, sterner words from the teacher. "Boys! I say, let those hogs alone. If you don't, I'll give it to you !" This, it might seem, would stop them, and it did seem to affect them awhile. But still the itching in them for fun was not yet allayed. Their fingers worked nervously to be hold of those bristles again, and provoke another squeal. Nor did they wait long before another op- portunity came to indulge their craving. Soon the bristles appeared again, and then came another pull, and immedi- ately another squeal. Now things became more serious, and the teacher must put more authority and power into his words than he had in either of the preceding cases. " Con- sumption, boys!"-that was the word he often used-" Con- sumption, boys ! what do you mean ? If you don't let these hogs alone I'll tan your jackets for you ! I'll make your backs smoke ! "
The early settlers of Conway, true to the puritan spirit of their fathers, under which they were trained, were not un- mindful of religious and moral institutions. They took seasonable means toward planting these among them, for the benefit of themselves and their descendants after them.
A Congregational church was formed in this town, Octo- ber 28th, 1778, consisting of Timothy Walker, Abiel Love- joy, Thomas Russell and Richard Eastman. Soon after its formation, Noah Eastman, Abiathar Eastman, with their wives and others, were added to it. Rev. Nathaniel Porter, D. D., was the first pastor of this church, installed over it at the time of its formation. In this relation he labored with the church and people for the space of thirty-seven years ; and to say that he labored well through many pri- vations and hardships, would be saying no more than we
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ought to say. It is not the place here to attempt any extended view of his ministerial character. That has been given already, better than we can give it in this place. We have the opportunity, however, to say a few things respecting him here, and our heart would reproach us if we did not say them. We knew him well, being for a season his colleague in the ministry. And we knew him only to admire him ; his keen, sharp eye, and his sharper intellect ; his salient wit ; his original thoughts, exhibited in conversation or writing ; and, above all, his manifested regard, in every place, for what was the plain teaching and design of the Bible. He was a doctor, made such by one of the most discriminating, learned institutions in the land. The title was well conferred. He deserved it, not because he studied books very extensively, but because he read the few choice ones he had carefully ; not because he studied classics much, or the fathers, but be- cause he studied nature in the forests, in the grand moun- tains surrounding him, together with his own heart, and the hearts of others, especially in the light of God's revealed truth. Doctor Porter was poor through all his life, often, for the want of other lights, writing his sermons by the blaze of pitch knots. In going to his meetings on the Sabbath, which were always miles from his home, he generally went, in early times especially, on horseback, often facing a stiff north-west wind. The same was true in relation to the fune- rals he attended, and his weddings, and his visitings. He nevci knew much about the luxury of an easy carriage. To this it may be owing, partly at least, that he lived to so great an age - ninety-three years. In the best days of his manhood he scarcely ever failed to impress one with the deep penetra- tion and force of his mind. Said a preceptor of Fryburg Academy once, " I had rather see anything come into my 16*
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school than those keen, piercing eyes," referring to Doctor Porter. "I am afraid of them." This he said, not because he especially disliked him, but because, in connection with a few others, the doctor was deputed by the trustees to visit his school, and correct some of its irregularities. This im- pression had of him, by the preceptor, from a slight acquaint- ance, would be deepened by a larger intercourse with him. This would affect you with a feeling similar to that possessed by the poet, when he said, referring to a certain person,
" He is a man of grave and earnest mind, Of warm heart, yet with a sense of duty - As how he must employ his powerful mind - That drives all empty trifles from his brain, And bends him sternly o'er his solemn tasks ; Things nigh impossible are plain to him. His trenchant will, like a fine-tempered blade, With upturned edge, cleaves through the baser iron."
A Baptist church was formed in this town, August 26th, 1796. Among their ministers have been Richard Ransom Smith, father of an ex-mayor of Boston ; Roswell Mears, and others. During the summer of 1860, the service of the Episcopal Church was first introduced into this town, the Rev. S. H. Hilliard, then a student at the General Seminary in New York, acting as Reader. Since that time North Conway has been a favorite resort for clergy- men of this communion, and church services have been reg- ularly maintained during the summer season. The Baptist church was rented for the use of the congregation, with the exception of one season when the hall of the Kearsage House was placed by the proprietor at the disposal of the clergymen.
No attempt was made, however, to establish a parish
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until the summer of 1867, when through the efforts of the Rev. Mr. Hilliard and the Rev. D. G. Haskins, seconded by members of the church residing at North Conway during the summer, the parish of " Christ Church " was organized, and the Hon. C. A. Peabody of New York and S. W. Thompson, Esq., of North Conway, were chosen wardens, together with a vestry composed of gentlemen from New York, Boston, Philadelphia, and North Conway. Subscrip- tions were immediately commenced for the support of the parish, and the erection of a suitable church for the accom- modation of the congregation. These have resulted in rais- ing nearly enough to erect the church ; one thousand dollars of the amount was subscribed by a member of the vestry residing in New York. The ceremony of laying the cor- ner-stone of the new church took place August 19, 1869, two years from the organization of the parish. In the spring of 1868 the Rev. Thomas B. Newby was elected Rector, and has since had charge of the parish.
There are two villages in Conway. Chatauque, or Con- way Corner, is a small village situated near the junction of the Saco and Swift rivers. It commands a fine prospect of Mount Washington and the other White Mountains, which are distinctly seen up the valley of the Saco.
There is a good hotel in the village, well kept, and affording excellent accommodations for travellers.
Five miles up the Saco Valley is North Conway, beau- tifully situated upon the plateau overlooking the intervals, and commanding fine and extensive views of the surround- ing mountains. This village has deservedly become the great centre of summer resort in the Saco Valley. There are twenty-three hotels and boarding-houses in North Con- way, and these are inadequate to accommodate comfortably
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the crowds. resorting thither to enjoy the beautiful scenery and breathe the pure air.
There are many places of deep interest in and about North Conway. These, together with its proximity to the Glen, Crawford's, and other points among the mountains, render it a most delightful place for passing several weeks, or even the entire summer. A person may remain at North Conway for weeks and yet have a new drive or walk each day.
" One cannot help being struck, at North Conway, with its capacity of improvement. It might be made as lovely a spot as it is possible for this planet to hold. If some duke or merchant prince, with his unlimited income, could put the resources of landscape taste upon it, gem it with cottages, hedge off the farms upon the meadows, span the road with elms, cultivate the border hills as far up as there is good soil, the village might be made a new Eden. Or even if the in- habitants would consent to remove their barns from the most sightly places, tear down the fences from the intervale, and sod the sandy banks that fret and heat the eye on a sultry day when it turns towards the cool verdure below, the gen- eral effect would be vastly better. The beauty of the place is measured by the fact that people so seldom notice the entire lack of everything like taste which is shown in the arrangement of the houses and grounds.
On the boundary between Conway and Bartlett, near the homestead of my father, on the high bank overlooking the intervale and the Saco, is the burying-place of my family. Here rest the remains of the bodies of my brother's family recovered from the avalanche. In one wide grave they sleep, - father, and mother, and two children. Three yet sleep among the ruins of the storm. A broad stone near the en-
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trance of the yard marks their resting-place. The following are the names of those destroyed : -
Samuel Willey, jr., aged ·
38
Eliza Ann,
· .
. 35
Jeremiah L.
11
Martha G.,
9
Elbridge G., 66
.
7
Sally,
·
5
David Nickerson,
21
David Allen,
37
Polly L. Willey,
13
·
Two first, parents ; five next, children ; two last, hired men. The three first and three last have been found.
CHAPTER XIV.
FRYBURG.
THE IMPORTANCE OF FRYBURG IN EARLY TIMES. - THE GRANT OF TOWN TO GEN. FRYE. - CONDITIONS OF THE GRANT. - FIRST SETTLERS. - THEIR HARDSHIPS. - OLIVER PEABODY. - INDIANS. - SABATIS. - ENCOUNTER WITH A CATAMOUNT. - LOVE OF THE WATER. - INDIANS' LOVE FOR MR. FESSENDEN. - OLD PHILIP. - FRYBURG. - EXPEDITION TO SHELBURNE. - FRYBURG ACADEMY. - BUILDINGS. - PRECEPTORS. - PAUL LANGDON. - DANIEL WEBSTER. - AMOS J. COOK. - REV. WILLIAM FESSENDEN. - MA- RION LYLE HURD.
" Where the hunter of deer and the warrior trod."
FRYBURG was, in early times, the principal, and, in fact, the only village of the White Mountains. It was, for long years, the centre whence came all the fashions, and to which tended all the trade. Its favorable situation, in respect to the seaboard towns, and the rapidity with which the village grew, gave it great prominence in its early days. Every neigh- borhood and settlement sent its representatives, weekly, to the village, to trade, and its one long street was then a busy scene of bustle and activity. Unlike most of our villages, it sprang up, in a comparatively few years, to its full size. It stands on a broad, level plain, slightly elevated above the intervales of the Saco, which encloses it in one of its huge
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folds. On a broad, straight, beautiful sheet the village is principally built.
The "old Province of Maine," says Williamson, the king had no right to give away. But, in violation of all right, he did give to Gen. Joseph Frye a grant of land since called Fryburg, from its grantee. Gen. Frye had been an officer in the king's army, and received the grant in con- sideration of his gallant deeds on the frontiers. He had been at Fort William Henry, and escaped, with the gallant Monro, the fearful carnage which cast such a stain upon the honor of Montcalm. He was an officer in command of a company, and, it has been faintly hinted, opposed the sur- render of the fort. On his return he was presented with an elegant silver-mounted sword and tankard.
The grant was made in the year 1762. The conditions of the grant were that he should give bond to the province treasurer to have the township settled with sixty good fami- lies, each of which should have built, within the term of five years, a good house, twenty feet by eighteen, and seven feet stud, and have cleared seven acres for pastarage or till- age. He should reserve one sixty-fourth of the township for the first Protestant minister, one sixty-fourth for a parson- age forever, one sixty-fourth for a school fund forever, one sixty-fourth for Harvard College forever. A Protestant min- ister was to be settled in the township within ten years.
The first settler was a Mr. Nathaniel Smith, a sort of squatter, led hither of his own free will and inclination. His cabin was reared, and his family moved into it the year suc- ceeding the grant, in the summer of 1763. In the fall of this year, influenced by the glowing representations of Gen. Frye, came Samuel Osgood, Moses Ames, John Evans, and Jedediah Spring, from Concord, N. H. "Their path,"
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says a true son of Fryburg, " was through the woods for sixty or seventy miles. For this distance no friendly house of entertainment on the way, in which to rest their weary limbs, or satisfy the demands of appetite - no, not even the hut of an humble peasant could be seen.
These were they who encountered the hardships, the fatigues, the sufferings, the losses attendant on the first set- tlers of a land so remote from the benefits of knowledge and refinement - who enjoyed the fruits of friendship even in society so narrow in its bounds - who established themselves in the bosom of an extensive wilderness, and constituted the first civil family on its desolate plain.
In this romantic retreat, from these small beginnings, a beautiful village has arisen ; and the population of it and the surrounding country has been beyond calculation. To those venerable fathers, therefore,
" Patient of toil ; serene amidst alarms ; Inflexible in faith ; invincible in arms ; "
to those worthy matrons, who, with heroic courage, and fortitude of soul, set hardships and dangers at defiance, who raised with tender, fostering care, a race of hardy sons ; to their spirit of patriotism are we indebted, next to Divine Providence, for the enjoyment of this goodly land.
The nearest white neighbors whom they, for a long time, had, were at Saco; and, even with those there were no means of communication. Sanford was their place of resort to obtain those articles of necessity which they could not forego; and this was nearly sixty miles off. The only mode of conveyance was on horses, and their guides were the marked trees of the forest. If there our fathers were parched with drouth, the sallying spring would slake their
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thirst. If their stomachs craved food, the cold luncheon of beef or venison would satisfy the appetite. If their weary limbs demanded repose, the moist ground was the bed on which it was sought, and on which it was usually found.
After the settlement began, the town settled very rapidly. Among the long list of proprietors, we find the name of that almost ubiquitous person, Oliver Peabody, who seems to have had a hand in settling most of the towns in this region. A deed of rights of two sixty-fourths he obtained; one sixty-fourth better off than most of those who helped to settle only this town.
This was a favorite resort of the Indians ; and, for many years after the dispersion of the Pequawket tribe, solitary members continued to linger around their old home. Old Philip, Sabatis, Tom Hegon, and Swarson, are familiar names with the old people yet. Sabatis was a great favor- ite with the whites, and many are the stories yet told of him. A little cross, we think, at times, perhaps when in liquor ; for we have heard it said that sometimes he had to sleep out doors. The old man was a hydropathist, and always slept on such occasions with his feet in water. He was a little timid withal, and the sudden appearance of any wild animal when alone, especially during the last years of his life, would set his teeth to chattering quite merrily. A catamount caused him a dreadful fright; the adventure with which he chattered off in broken English to every one who would listen to his story. The huge fellow lay couched in a tree, and the first that Sabatis saw was his fierce eyeballs glaring full upon him. "Me hold up the gun," said he; "but me tremble so, afraid to fire; me take the gun down. Then me try it again. Hold up, but still tremble so, afraid to fire. 17
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Afraid the gun would not go; or, if it did go, that I should n't hit. So me greatly troubled about it. Afraid to go away and leave her, cause then she jump on me ; so must fire, or be killed. Dreadfully troubled; so me try it. By and by, hold up the gun little more steady; not so much tremble. Then I more steady, and fire. Catamount drop. She no come upon me."
Another of his hydropathic tricks was swimming among the cakes of ice, as they came down the Saco in the cold waters of the spring, diving among them, and coming up crying, "See otter ! See otter !" The boys admired old Sabatis. .
The Rev. Mr. Fessenden was very popular with the Indians. His son says he has seen a dozen cooking their meat in his father's fire-place at once.
" His house was known to all the vagrant train, He chid their wanderings, but relieved their pain."
Major Rogers was aided in his expedition against St. Francis by old Philip, and by the few Pequawkets, of whom he was chief. During that expedition, two little Indian boys were captured by Philip and his Indians, one of whom was named Sabatis, the same probably referred to above. Old Philip joined the American army during the revolution, saying "he was a whig Indian." Swanson, a companion of Philip, was of such service to the American cause, that he was presented with an elegant sword.
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