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LANDMARKS
IN
ANCIENT DOVER,
NEW HAMPSHIRE.
·
BY
MARY P. THOMPSON.
COMPLETE EDITION.
DURHAM, N. H .: 1892.
F 44
1
Copyright, 1892,
BY MARY P. THOMPSON.
All Rights Reserved.
PRINTET RY HY LEPUBLICAN PRESS ASSOCIATION, CONCORD, N. H.
THE PRESENT EDITION OF
LANDMARKS IN ANCIENT DOVER
IS RESPECTFULLY INSCRIBED TO THE
DOVER HISTORICAL SOCIETY,
AT WHOSE REQUEST IT HAS BEEN PREPARED.
19427
DOVER, N. H., January 31, 1891.
MISS MARY P. THOMPSON :
At the January meeting of the Dover Historical Society you were invited to write up the Ancient Landmarks of Dover and vicinity.
Yours respectfully, A. G. WHITTEMORE, Secretary.
PREFACE.
The township of Dover, New Hampshire, originally comprised not only the present city of that name, but the townships of Durham, Lee, Madbury, Rollinsford and Somersworth, the greater part of Newington, a portion of Newmarket, and nearly, if not quite, the whole shore of Greenland along the south side of the Great Bay.
A complete list of the old localities and landmarks of this extensive region has necessarily required a great amount of research. The list given in the present work is based on the early town records, especially those of Dover proper ; on the county records at Exeter prior to 1773 ; on the New Hamp- shire Provincial and State Papers ; and on local and family traditions. All the grants and conveyances of land referred to in this work have been per- sonally examined by the writer, unless otherwise intimated. The orthogra- phy and phraseology of these records have been retained as far as possible, even when no direct quotations have been made.
The present edition of the " Landmarks in Ancient Dover " entirely super- sedes the first one. The numerous errors in that edition have, as far as dis- covered, been carefully corrected in this, and several hundred new localities have been added.
Among the most important corrections are those relating to Herod's Cove, Pinkham's and Swadden's Creek's, and the ancient bounds of the Bloody Point settlement once known as Kenney's Creek and Hogsty Cove. Numerous places along the Greenland shore of the Great Bay are herein proved to have been a part of Ancient Dover. And whereas the first edition of this work was only supplementary to what others had written, the present edition is a . complete register of all the noteworthy localities within the limits of Ancient Dover, not only of early times, but also those of more recent date, as well as many places in Barrington, Nottingham, and Rochester, mentioned in con- nection with the public highways or with the inhabitants of Dover.
A few of the places mentioned in this work have not been positively iden- tified, in spite of much research ; but the neighborhood has in all cases been indicated, and some points given which, it is hoped, will lead to their identi- fication. The writer will feel greatly obliged for any information bearing thereon, and for the correction of any errors discovered in the work.
DURHAM, N. H., May 26, 1892.
LANDMARKS IN ANCIENT DOVER.
ABBOTT'S BROOK. This brook is in the north-eastern part of Somers- worth, and connects Cole's pond with the Salmon Falls river. About mid- way in its course it is joined by a brook from Rochester. "Abbott's brook " is mentioned in the Atlas of Hitchcock's Geology of N. H. The name is derived from Moses Abbott, who formerly resided on the south side of this brook.
ABBOTT'S ISLANDS. Richard Dame, on his map of Newington in 1805, gives this name to some small islands at the mouth of Laighton's cove. No islands are there, however, except at extremely high tide, when High point, and perhaps one or two other projec- tions, are sometimes severed from the mainland. The origin of the name does not appear.
ADAMS' POINT. This point of land, originally called Mathews' Neck, is on the Durham shore, at the Narrows, between Great and Little bays. The present name was derived from Elder John Adams, a descendant of the Rev. Joseph Adams of Newington, who was the uncle of John Adams, the second president of the United States. Elder Adams acquired this neck of land by a mortgage from Timothy Dame of Newington, May 1, 1830, which was never redeemed. The deed describes it as a farm of eighty acres, "commonly called
Mathews' Neck," bounded north by the land of Joseph Kent's heirs, and on the other sides by Great and Lit- tle bays, and the coves and creeks that run into said bays." (See Mathews' Neck. )
ADDER'S SWAMP. This swamp is in Durham, at the upper side of Cutt's hill, opposite the Burnham house, on the south side of the road to Durham Point. It belongs to the heirs of the late Col. Joseph Burnham.
ALLEY POINT. This name is given on Whitehouse's map of 1834 to a point on the eastern shore of the Cochecho, above the Narrows. The name was derived from Samuel Alley, whose land here is mentioned Dec. 30, 1734, when Edward Ellis conveyed to John MacElroy 30 acres of land, " beginning at ye lower end of a brook called Stony brook, and running up to ye road yt leads from Jabez Garland's, and so by ye road to ye parting fence between Samuel Alley's land and said lot, and from sd Alley's land to Wm. Thompson's, thence as sd Thompson's fence runs to Cochecho salt river, and along sd river to ye lower end of ye sª Stony brook." Samuel Alley and wife Eliz- abeth conveyed to Job Clement, March 28, 1758, fifty acres of land where they then dwelt, bounded N. by said Clement's land, E. by Amos Howard's, W. by Garland's and Paul
8
Landmarks in Ancient Dover.
Harford's to Cochecho river, running down said river till it comes to How- ard's land, near Champion's rocks.
AMBLER'S ISLANDS. These islands, three in number, are so called on Smith's map of Durham.1 They lie off Durham Point, near the mouth of Oyster river. The largest, about an acre in extent, is now called Mathes island, from a recent owner. The next in size is Sassafras island, and the smallest is Hen island. They are all now owned by Mr. Jeremiah Lang- ley. This group derived its name from Elder John Ambler, who once owned land on the neighboring shore, now belonging in part to Mr. Langley. He was chosen deacon of the Oyster River church, Oct. 19, 1718, and ordained " elder," Nov. 16, 1721.
ANTHONY'S BROOK. The name of this brook was derived from Anthony Emery, who, May 2, 1642, bought of Stephen Tedder six acres of land on the Newichawannock, confirmed to him by the town of Dover the 7th, 6 mo., 1648, together with an addi- tional grant which extended to "a brook that lyeth on the southeast against the Newichwannick."' This brook is referred to March 19, 1693-4, when three score acres of land were granted to John Hall, Jr., on Salmon Falls river, " on ye north side of ye brooke, above Antonies." Three score acres were also laid out to Robert Euans, Jr., Ap. 7, 1696, on the north side of Antony's brook. John Win- gate, Nov. 5, 1702, conveyed to Paul Wentworth three score acres adjacent to Salmon Falls, beginning at a pitch- pine tree on the north side of Anto-
nies brook, and thence running S. E. three score rods by the Salmon Falls river. Richard Rookes, schoolmas- ter, Aug. 9, 1731, conveyed to Thomas Wallingford, innholder, 60 acres of swamp and upland in the parish of "Summersworth," granted to John Hall, Jr., March 19, 1693-4, " beginning at a bass tree by ye upper pier, at ye upper Boom at ye river," thence running 60 rods south to An- tony's brook, so called. This brook, which has lost its ancient name, and is now insignificant in size, passes through Sill swamp, comes to Salmon Falls village back of the railroad sta- tion, and empties into the Salmon Falls river.
ASH SWAMP. Mentioned March 19, 1693-4, when 20 acres of land " between Tole End and Ash swamp" were granted to John Haise. Israel Hodgdon's land at Ash swamp, orig- inally granted to William Thompson, above Noch's marsh, is mentioned Feb. 22, 1720, as beginning at the river (Bellamy), leaving a highway four rods wide between Nock's old bound and Thompson's fifty acres. This swamp is called Cochecho log swamp, March 17, 1658-9, when William Thompson's fifty acre grant was laid out to him beyond it, with Thomas Nock's land on the south- east, and Bellamies Bank freshet on the south-west. Moses Wingate, Sept. 12, 1752, bought of Nathaniel Hanson twenty acres in " Cochecho swamp or Ash Swamp," which land Hanson had by inheritance.
Edward Evans' grant of 30 acres of swamp land " near bellemies bank
1 Smith's map of Durham, often referred to in these Landmarks, was drawn by D. Smith in April, 1805. It is the oldest map of the town that has come to light.
9
Landmarks in Ancient Dover.
pond, between the two rivers," June 23, 1701, was laid out in Ash swamp, beginning at "an asp tree on the south side of barbadus [Barbadoes] way."
Robert Evans of Mendon, Mass., sold Joseph Meder of Dover, June 5, 1711, sixty acres of land granted his father, Robert Evans, Sr., in Cochecho swamp, on the south side of the way that goeth to a place commonly called Barbadoes. This land was conveyed to John Hanson in 1713. Nock's marsh, on the western side of Dover, is a part of the old Cochecho or Ash swamp.
Another Ash swamp, between the Cochecho and Salmon Falls rivers, is mentioned March 23, 1702, when Paul Wentworth had a grant of 80 acres there.
An Ash swamp in the present town of Lee is spoken of July 19, 1721, when ten acres were laid out to Joseph Jones " at a place called the Ash swamp, above Whelrit's pond," on the south side of John Thompson and Moses Davis's land. This was part of a grant to Anthony Nutter in 1694. James and Sarah Clark of Biddeford (Me.), Nov. 9, 1741, con- veyed to Jonathan Thompson 60 acres in the town of Durham, " at a place commonly called ye Ash swamp,"- half of a six-score aere grant which said Clark bought of Moses Davis, Jr., formerly of Oyster River, de- ceased. This tract began at a pitch- pine tree on the south side of the highway that leads by Peter's Oven.
John Gray1 sold Samuel James Stevens, March 2, 1747-8, a tract of
land in Durham, on the north side of Ash Swamp. This land was sold Ang. 22, 1750, to Jonathan Thomp- son, Jr., whose descendants still own it. It is on the upper side of Little river, between Lee Hill and Not- tingham.
A large swamp in South New- market is still known as Ash Swamp.
ASH SWAMP BROOK. Mentioned Dec. 31, 1750, when Miles and Abi- gail Randall of Durham conveyed to Simon Randall 80 acres of land at " a place commonly called ye Ash swamp brook," part of 100 acres which their father, Nathaniel Randall, deceased, bought of Joseph Smith, " bounded on the south side of ye mast road." A bridge over Ash brook is mentioned in the Durham records of 1753 and 1754, and Ash Swamp-bridge is mentioned several times between 1755 and 1763. This brook is the outlet of Ash swamp. It crosses the road from Lee Hill to Nottingham, near Mr. John Thomp- son's, and empties into Little river.
ATKINSON'S HILL. This hill is in the south-western part of the Back River district, not far from the old Paseataqua bridge. It is partly in Dover and partly in Madbury, and is so named from the Hon. Wm. King Atkinson, who acquired land here at the close of the last century. It is often mentioned in the Madbury ree- ords as " Laighton's Hill," a name derived from the Laighton family that owned land in this vicinity for nearly 200 years, descendants of Thomas Layton of the Dover Combi- nation of 1640. (See Royall's Cove.)
1 John and George Gray are mentioned as trained soldiers on the south side of Oyster river, in 1732.
IO
Landmarks in Ancient Dover.
The Atkinson house, now owned by Mrs. Simpson, is in Madbury. The Laighton house, owned by Mr. Pres- cott, is in Dover. The road from Dover to the old Pascataqua bridge crosses Atkinson hill between these two houses.
This height affords an admirable view of the neighboring waters ex- tending from the mouth of Oyster river and the opening into Little bay, to a great distance down the Pascataqua. The river directly in front is nearly a mile in width, and dotted by islands, two of which once formed links in the Pascataqua bridge; and beyond the broad expanse are the beautifully varied shores of Newington. Daniel Webster, who often crossed Atkinson hill on his way to and from Ports- mouth when it was court time at Dover, declared this view unsurpassed by any other in New England. (See Laighton's Hill.)
BACK COVE. This cove is at the mouth of Minnow brook, at the lower end of Dover Neck, on the west side. It is mentioned June 25, 1704, when Richard Pinkham, Sr., and wife Eliz- abetli, conveyed to Ralph Hall 3} acres of land adjacent to ye Back Cove on Dover Neck, butting on Back river at the west, and bounded N. by John Dam's land, E. by low street, and S. by a lane running down to the Back cove, which land formerly be- longed to their grandfather, Thomas
Layton. Ensign Joseph Beard, Oct. 7, 1713, confirmed to Ralph Hall the right to one acre of land on Dover Neck, bounded N. by land conveyed by Joseph Beard, Sr., to Captain Thomas Tibbets, E. by land sold said Tibbets by Richard Pinkham, S. by a lane that led from high street to the back cove, and W. by the lane for- merly called the Dirty lane.
BACK RIVER. The early settlers gave this name to the river at the west side of Dover Neck. as far as the head of tide water, above which it was called Bellamy's Bank river or freshet1 to its source in Barrington. It is mentioned as early as Sept. 20, 1647, when Joseph Miller conveyed to John Goddard 20 acres on the west side of Back river. The name is still retained.
Back River, as a district, is also frequently mentioned in the public records of the last 200 years. It comprises the whole territory between Back river itself, and the Durham line from Cedar point to Johnson's creek bridge.
BACK RIVER GARRISONS. There seem to have been at least five garri- sons in the Back River district.
I. DAM'S GARRISON, otherwise DAME'S. John Cross is mentioned as serving at " Will Dam's garrison " from Jan. 7 till Feb. 6, 1695 ; John Bickford from May 12 till June 8, 1695 ; John Tucker and John Miller
1 The name of "freshet " was given by the early settlers to the fresh portion of a stream, to distinguish it from the tidal part towards the mouth, which is salt. "Oyster river freshet," and "Bellamy Bank freshet," are often mentioned in the, old records, meaning that part of those streams above the head of tide water. An English critic, objecting to Dr. Jeremy Bel- knap's use of this term as unknown to him, Belknap replied, "Our forefathers brought the word from England," and he cited Milton's Paradise Regained as good authority for its use :
"All fish from sea or shore,
Freshet or purling brook, or shell, or fin."
(See Belknap's History of New Hampshire (1792) Vol. III, Preface.)
II
Landmarks in Ancient Dover.
from Nov. 4 till Dec. 5, 1695, and Ephraim Jackson from Dec. 5 till Jan. 7, 1696. (N. H. Prov. Pap., 17: 648.)
The precise situation of this garri- son is not known, but it was in the Back River district, apparently on the lot granted John Dam in 1642, which was "Number eleven," next above the lot of John Upgrove, oth- erwise Newgrove.
Forty acres of land, granted to John Dam in 1656, were laid out to his son John Sept. 16, 1702, begin- ning at a white oak on the line be- tween this land and that of Joseph Tibbets. A highway is mentioned between Dam's land and that of James Newt, which led to a landing- place at the head of James Newt's creek. This creek is above Hope- hood's point. (See Nute's Creek.)
Wm. Dam, Sr., of Dover, in con- sideration of the love, good-will, and affection he bore to his loving son William, conveyed to him, June 7, 1712, one half of the new house he was then building, and half of the land on which it stood, with one third of his orchard, and also three acres of land bounded S. by the land of New Groue and James Newt, E. by the river, being all his land on that side of the creek. And Wm. Dam, Jr., that same day, bound himself to be at one third part of the charge of moving the house in which he then dwelt at the west end (24 ft. long and 30 ft. wide), up to the Logg house, and set it there. Wm. Dam conveyed to Jacob Allen, Ap. 7, 1724, " one half of a dwelling Logg House, set in Dover, on the westerly side of ye back river, which was formerly ye dwelling house of Wm. Dam, Sr., together
with the land on which it stands, and part of ye upper orchard containing two rows of apple trees next said Jacob's part of ye orchard ; also 44 acres lying in ye spruce pasture."
James Nute of Dover conveyed to James Tuttle, Feb. 3, 1770, 28 acres of land on the west side of Back river, at the N. E. corner of said Tuttle's other land bought of Tristram Pinkham, and running along by said river to the heirs of Wm. Dam, de- ceased, then westerly by said Dam's land and thatch-bed till it came to the west side of the creek, to high- water mark, and running across a point of land till it came to said James Tuttle's other land.
II. DREW'S GARRISON. The Back River garrison of this name is still in a good state of preservation, and is a picturesque feature of the road known as Spruce Lane. It is now owned by Mrs. Rounds, and contains an inter- esting collection of furniture and do- mestic utensils of colonial times. It was probably built by Jolin Drew, who owned land at Back River be- tween the lots of Robert Huckins and Thomas Whitehouse, June 6, 1698, when he acquired the Huckins lot, called " No. 16" in the numbering of the Back River grants. The Pom- frett lot, No. 17, was sold him Feb. 5, 1701-2, by Pomfrett Whitehouse, grandson of Wm. Pomfrett. Richard and Sarah Paine of Boston conveyed to him June 5, 1705, 20 acres, " with ye marsh and flatts belonging thereto, being ye 18th of ye twenty acre lots on the west side of Back river, and abutting on Back river." Israel Hodg- don conveyed to John Drew, Sr., March 1, 1705-6, three fourths of an acre of salt marsh on the north side
I2
Landmarks in Ancient Dover.
of the Little freshit or brook that goes out of the deep gutt, so called, that is in ye 18th lot of ye twenty acre lotts on the west side of Back river, join- ing John Drew's other thatch-bed.
" Drew Garrison" is so called June 21, 1779. (See Spruce Lane.)
III. FIELD'S GARRISON. This gar- rison stood on the present " Paul Me- serve farm," so called, near the Back River school-house, but on the oppo- site side of the road. It was built by Zacharias Field, who was taxed at Oyster River in 1664, and owned land at Back River as early as 1670. The Rev. John Pike relates that, July 8, 1707, John Bunker and Ichabod Raw- lins were going with a cart from Lieut. Zach Field's garrison to James Bun- ker's for a loom, when they were slain by the Indians.
The highway that led to Field's garrison, and thence to Capt. Ger- rish's gristmill, as ye way goes to Co- checho, is mentioned March 6, 1710- 11. (N. H. Prov. Pap., 17 : 710.)
IV. MESERVE'S GARRISON. This is called the " Harvey Garrison " in Sanford & Evert's county atlas. It was still standing a few years since in a ruinons condition near the honse of Mr. Gerrish P. Drew, but having been partly blown down, it had to be completely demolished. It is said to have been built by Clement Meserve, whose land adjoining the Field land is mentioned in the middle of the last century.
V. TORR GARRISON. The first gar- rison of this name was perhaps built by John Knight, whose " plantation already improved " on the west side of Back river is mentioned Ap. 11, 1694. Leah Knight, his widow, mar- ried Benedictus Torr, who seems to
have been in possession of the Knight land, Feb. 22, 1709-10, when John Gerrish of Dover, and wife Elizabeth, conveyed to Benedictus Torr, and Leah, his wife, 364 acres in Dover township, lying to the westward of the mast bridge, on the west side of the Bake (Back) river, beginning at the south-west corner of the lot for- merly sold by Major Richard Waldron to John Knight, deceased, but at this time in the tenure of said Benedictus Torr and Leah, his wife, thence run- ning on a S. S. W. point three score and five rods to a Plase (place) called by the name of Tom Drew's oven. One bound of this land was a pine tree on the south side of the mast path. (See Mast Bridge.)
The first Torr garrison is said to have been burned by the Indians, bnt another was soon after erected by Benedictus Torr, which stood nearly opposite the present residence of Mr. Simon Torr. When taken down some years ago, a part of the timbers were used in the construction of the farm buildings.
BAGDAD. This name has been giv- en for the last three score years or more to a corner east of Brown's hill in Durham-not for anything oriental in the scenery or in the style of ar- chitecture of the buildings, or any magnificence of sentiment among the residents. On the contrary, at the time this corner received its name, it was notable for its squalor and pov- erty and lowness of morals ; and the name was, perhaps, given by some rural philosopher, who found it as good a place to moralize in as Mirza did on the high hills of Bagdad, where he went to muse and moralize on the condition and fate of humanity. And
13
Landmarks in Ancient Dover.
here, as on Mirza's hills, there is a " long hollow valley " beneath, in the depth of which courses Huckins brook, along the upper side of Buck's hill.
Some say, however, that the name of Bagdad was given by the boys of this corner, who had been reading the " Arabian Nights," and the name so tickled the popular fancy, by the very force of contrast, as to be at once uni- versally accepted.
BALD GADE, otherwise BOLD GADE, mentioned in a Tibbets deed of the middle of last century. It was ap- parently in Somersworth, but the name has not been retained.
BALD HEAD. This is a small bluff on the Newington shore of Little Bay, just above Fox Pt., which has a bald, sandy aspect, facing the water, but otherwise is covered with verdure.
BALLARD'S BROOK. This name is often given to that part of Stony brook where it is crossed by the road from Durham village to Madbury. The bridge across it is also called Ballard's bridge. (See Stony Brook.)
BANTOM'S POINT, otherwise BAMP- TON's. This point, according to White- house's map of Dover, is on the west . side of the river Cochecho, below the Narrows. Matthew James of Somers- worth, Dec. 29, 1741, conveyed to lis son John 12 acres and 128 rods of land, compassing one acre in John Bamton's possession, beginning at his fence and running down to a landing-place on Cochecho river. It joined Samuel Tibbets' land. John James sold this land to Jonathan
Watson, who, Dec. 2, 1746, conveyed to Ambrose Bampton 12 acres 128 rods, towards the upper end of Dover Neck, compassing one acre already in said Bampton's possession, and running down to a landing place ou the Cochecho river. " Ambrous Ban- tom " belonged to Capt. Thomas Mil- let's Company in 1740. (See Clark's Ferry.)
BARBADOES. This name was given about two hundred years ago to a dis- trict on the present borders of Dover and Madbury that comprised BARBA- DOES MARSII, BARBADOES PLAIN, BAR- BADOES POND, BARBADOES SPRING, and BARBADOES WOODS. A road led to this district, sometimes called Bar- badoes way, which is mentioned May 30, 1702. (See Broad Turn.) Robert Evans of Mendon (Mass.), June 5, 1711, conveyed to Joseph Meader of Dover, 60 acres of land granted his father Robert Evans, Sr., laid out in Cochecho Swamp, on " the south side of the way that goeth to a place com- monly called Barbadoes." Joseph Meader conveyed this trackt to John Hanson in 1713. Benjamin Evans, April 10, 1739, conveyed to Hercules Mooney, schoolmaster1, eleven acres in " ye place commonly called Bar- badoes " on the north side of the way from Littleworth to Barrington, be- ginning at Robert Hanson's bound. Thirty acres were granted to Joseph Evans in Purbadies (Barbadoes) woods, Ap. 6, 1702. John Wingate, in his will of 1714, gives his son Ed- mund thirty acres in Barbadoes woods, which, according to a deed from Si-
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