USA > New Hampshire > The history of New-Hampshire. Comprehending the events of one complete century and seventy-five years from the discovery of the River Pascataqua to the year one thousand seven hundred and ninety, Vol 3 > Part 11
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Foffil Shells have been found near Lamprey riv- er, in Newmarket, at the depth of feventeen feet ; and in fuch a fituation as that the bed of the river could never have been there. The fhells were of oyfters, mufcles and clams, intermixed. Clam fhells have alfo been difcovered at the depth of twenty feet, in the neighborhood of Dartmouth college.
Foffil Trees are fometimes found in the intervale lands, adjoining the great rivers.
Mineralogy is a branch of fcience which is but little cultivated. Men of genius and fcience have not leifure to purfue objects from which prefent ad-
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HISTORY OF
vantages cannot be drawn. The difappointments which have attended fome expenfive attempts ; the air of myftery thrown over the fubject by ignorant pretenders ; and the facility with which every min- eral may be imported from abroad, have difcour- aged inquiries. But from the fpecimens which have appeared, there can be no doubt of the exift- ence of mineral and foffil treafures, in the fearch of which, future generations will find employment.
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NEW-HAMPSHIRE.
CHAP. XII.
Description of the harbour and river of Pascataqua.
THIS is the only feaport in New-Hamp- fhire ; its latitude is 43º 5'N. and its longitude 70° 41' W. from the royal obfervatory at Greenwich. It is known to feamen by the following marks. Agamenticus, a remarkable mountain in the coun- ty of York, lies four leagues due north. Pigeon hill, on Cape Anne, bears due fouth, diftant ten leagues ; and the higheft of the Ifles of fhoals bears S. E. by S. diftant three leagues from the entrance of the harbour.
In the middle of the harbour's mouth, lies Great- Ifland, on which the town of Newcaftle is built. On the N. E. point of this ifland a light houfe was erected in 1771, at the expence of the province ; but it is now ceded to the United States. The direc- tions for entering, the harbour are thefe : 'Ships ' coming from the Eaft, fhould keep in twelve fath- 'om, till the light bears N. half a point E. or W. 'diftant three miles ; (to avoid a ledge of rocks ' which lies off the mouth of the harbour ;) then ' bear away for the light, keeping the weftern fhore 'on board, and coming no nearer that fhore than ' the depth of nine fathoms ; giving the light a prop- 'er birth, and ftanding over to the northern fhore "of the river ; where they may anchor in nine fath- 'oms, abreaft of Sparhawk's point. Ships coming ' from the fouthward, fhould obferve the fame di- 'rections, refpecting the light, and keep in nine " fathoms on the weftern fhore.'
Between the north fide of Great-Ifland and Kitte- ry fhore, is the main entrance, about a mile wide,
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nine and ten fathoms deep. The anchorage is good; the fhore is lined with rocks ; the harbour is land- locked on all fides, and perfectly fafc. The tides rife from ten to fourteen feet. The other entrance on the fouth fide of Great-Ifland, is called Little Harbour ; the water here is fhoal, and the bottom fandy.
There are feveral iflands in the river, between which and the fhores are channels for fmall veffels and boats. Between the upper end of Great-Ifland, and the town of Portfmouth, on the fouthern fide of the river, is a broad, deep, ftill water called the Pool ; where the largeft fhips may lie very conveni- ently and fecurely. This was the ufual ftation for the maft-fhips, of which feven have been loading at one time. In this place the Aftraa fhip of war of twenty guns, was burnt, on a feverely cold morning, January 17, 1744. She had been captured from the Spaniards at Porto Bello ; and was taking in a load of naval ftores, for the British fleet at Jamaica, when this accident happened.
The main channel lies between Peirce's ifland and Seavey's; on each of which, batteries of cannon were planted, and entrenchments formed in 1775. Here the ftream is contracted to a very narrow paffage, and the tide is extremely rapid ; but the water is deep, with a bold rocky fhore on each fide. The ra- pidity of the current prevents the river from freez- ing in the fevereft winters.
The town of Portfmouth lies about two miles from the fea, on the fouth fhore of the river. The num- ber of dwelling houfes at prefent is about 640, and of other buildings 620. The public buildings are three Congregational churches, one Epifcopal, one Univerfalift, a State-houfe, a Market-houfe, four School-houfes, and a Work-houfe. The town has convenient wharves, and the anchorage before it is
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NEW-HAMPSHIRE.
good. There is depth of water fufficient for the larg- eft fhips ; and there are fuch natural advantages, for all the purpofes of building and docking them, and the harbour is fo capable of defence, againft any fud- den attack by fea, that it might be made a very fafe and commodious port for a navy.
Ships of war have been built here, both in former and latter times, viz. the Faulkland of 54 guns, in 1690 ; the Bedford-galley, of 32, in 1696; the A- merica, of 40, in 1749 ; the Raleigh, of 32, in 1776 ; the Ranger, of 18, in 1777 ; and a fhip of 74 guns, called the America, was launched the 5th of Novem- ber, 1782, and prefented to the King of France, by the Congrefs of the United States.
51 Three leagues from the mouth of the harbour lie the Ifles of Shoals, which are feven in number. On Star-ifland the town of Gofport is built, which be- longs to New-Hampfhire. The dividing line runs between that and the next ifland to the northward, {" which belongs to Maffachufetts. Here is a good road, with moorings ; and an artificial dock has been conftructed with great labour and expenfe, by Mr. Haley, for fifhing veffels. Ships fometimes take fhelter here in bad weather, but it is not then fafe for thofe of large bulk. Thefe iflands, being of folid rock, with but little earth, are incapable of any improvement by tillage, though they afford fome pafturage and gardens. The inhabitants have for- merly carried on the cod fifhery to great advantage ; but it has been for fome years declining. Saltworks have been erected on one of the iflands, which have yielded falt of a fuperior quality, excellently adapt- ed to the curing of fifh.
1
The Pafcataqua is the only large river whofe whole courfe is in New-Hampshire. Its head is a pond in the N. E. corner of the town of Wakefield, and its general courfe thence, to the fea, is S. S. E.
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HISTORY OF
about 40 miles. It divides New-Hampfhire from York county, in Maffachufetts, and is called Sal- mon-fall river, from its head, to the lower falls at Berwick ; where it affumes the name of Newicha- · wannock, which it bears till it meets with Coche- cho river, which comes from Dover, when both run : together in one channel, to Hilton's point, where the weftern branch meets it. From this junction to the fea, the river is fo rapid that it never freezes ; the diftance is feven miles, and the courfe generally from S. to S. E. The weftern branch is formed by Swamfcot river which comes from Exeter, Winni- cot river which comes through Greenland, and Lam- prey river which divides Newmarket from Dur- ham ; thefe empty into a bay, four miles'wide, call- ed the Great Bay. The water in its further pro- grefs is contracted into a leffer bay, and then it re- ceives Oyfter river, which runs through Durham, and Back-river, which comes from Dover, and at length meets with the main ftream at Hilton's point. The tide rifes into all thefe bays and branches, as far as the lower falls in each river, and forms a moft rapid current, cfpecially at the feafon of the frefh- ets, when the ebb continues about two hours longer than the flood; and were it not for the numerous eddies, formed by the indentings of the fhore, the ferries would then be impaffable.
At the lower falls in the feveral branches of the river, are landing places, whence lumber and other country produce is tranfported, and veffels or boats from below difcharge their lading : So that in each river there is a convenient trading place, not more than twelve or fifteen miles diftant from Portsmouth, with which there is conftant communication by ev- ery tide. Thus the river, from its form, and the fituation of its branches, is extremely favorable to the purpofes of navigation and commerce.
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NEW-HAMPSHIRE.
At Dover is an high neck of land between the main branch of Pafcataqua and Back river, about two miles long, and half a mile wide, rifing gently along a fine road, and declining on each fide like a fhip's deck. It commands an extenfive and varie- gated profpect of the rivers, bays, adjacent fhores, and diftant mountains. It has often been admired by travellers as an elegant fituation for a city, and by military gentlemen for a fortrefs. The firft fet- ders pitched here, but the trade has long fince been removed to Cochecho-falls, about four miles farther up ; and this beautiful fpot is almoft deferted of in- habitants.
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CHAP. XIII.
Trade, Navigation, Fishery and Manufactures.
THE firft fpecies of traffic which was known in this country was the fur trade, with the Indians ; the next object was fifh ; and the third was lumber.
Formerly the banks of the river Pafcataqua were covered with fine timber, which was cut or fplit in, to any form, and eafily conveyed on board fhips. The firft fettlers erected faw-mills, on the branches of the river ; and a great trade in lumber was driven for many years. When the neighbouring lands were cleared of the firft growth, it was fuppofed that the lumber trade would decline ; but it was, and is ftill kept up by many of the people, and is drawn from the diftance of thirty or forty miles, to the heads of the tide, in the branches of the river. Itis then conveyed in rafts, or on board large gondolas, to the fhips, in different parts of the river, or to the wharves at Portfmouth.
The maft trade was formerly confined to Eng- land ; all white pine trees of certain dimenfions be- ing deemed the King's property. The contractors and agents made large fortunes by this traffic ; but the labourers who fpent their time in the woods, and were fupplied with provifion and clothing for themfelves and their families, anticipated their carn- ings, and were generally kept in a flate of poverty and dependance.
Ship building has always been a confiderable branch of bufinefs. European traders often came hither to build fhips, which they could do much cheaper than at home, by the profit made on the
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NEW-HAMPSHIRE.
joods, which they brought with them. Our own merchants alfo built fhips of two and three hundred ons ; which were employed in voyages, to the Brit- fh fugar iflands, with a lading of lumber, fifh, oil ind live ftock. The cargo was fold, and the pro- duce of the ifland was fent hither in fmaller veffels, for home confumption ; whilft the fhips took a lad- ng of fugars for England, where they were fold ; and with the freight a remittance (often unprofita- ble) was made to the merchants of England, for goods imported on credit the preceding year. Other vef- fels laden with timber and fpars proceeded directly for the Britifh ports, and were fold with their car- goes, for the fame purpofe. The coafting trade at the Southward, was an exchange of Weft-India com- modities for corn, rice, flour, pork, and naval ftores ; a part of which being re-exported to Newfoundland and Nova-Scotia, produced bills on England for re- mittance. This was the common routine of trade, before the late revolution ; by which the profit of our labor centered with the merchants of England.
The foreign trade, as diftinguifhed from national, was very inconfiderable. Two or three veffels in a year would go to the free ports of the French and Dutch Weft-Indies with cargoes of lumber, fifh oil and provifions, and bring home molaffes to be diftil- led into rum, in the only diftil-houfe in New-Hamp- fhire. One veffel in a year would go to the Azores or the Canaries with pipe ftaves, fifh, and other pro- vifions, and return with a cargo of wine, the balance of which was paid in cafh or bills, and fometimes a fhip which had been to England, would get a freight to Lifbon or Cadiz, and return with falt and fruit. This was the fum total of our foreign commerce .*
Foreign entries in the following years. 1764-112
* Port of Pascataqua. Foreign clearances in the following years. 1764 --- 150
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Since the revolution, the trade to the Britifh Well Indies has ceafed ; but the French and Dutch ports in that quarter, are frequented by our lumber vef- fel's ; though the reftrictions laid upon certain arti- cles of their produce, render the voyages thither lef profitable.
For feveral years fucceeding the late war, the par- tial impofts and impolitic reftrictions of our own government, prevented foreign veffels from loading in our port, and a want of capital or of enterprife in the merchants of Pafcataqua, has hitherto kept them from exploring the new fources of commerce which are opened to America by her independence, and which the merchants of other American ports are feeking with avidity. Since the operation of our, general government, an equal fyftem of impoft has been introduced ; and trade is regulated fo as to ferve the general intereft of the union. The officers of the cuftoms are appointed by the Executive of the United States ; and the revenue arifing from trade and navigation, is applied to national purpofes.
That fuch an alteration was wife and falutary, may be evident from confidering the fituation of, New-Hampfhire, as well as of fome other States in the union.
New-Hampfhire is feated in the bofom of Maffa- chufetts with a narrow ftrip of fea coaft, and one
1765 -=== 115
1765- 199
1766 -- 113
1766-
-136
1767-
112
1767
.170
1768-
124
1768
-183
1769
128
1769.
-- 151
1770
111
1770- -142
177
104
1771
135
1772-
108
1772- 136
1773- 92
17732
--- 88
9 months. S
N. B. By foreign Entries and clearances, are meant all, except the coasting and fishing vessels.
From Eleazer Russell, Esq. Naval-Officer.
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NEW-HAMPSHIRE.
only port. Her inland country extends fo widely as to cover a great part of the neighbouring States, and render a commercial connexion with them ab- folutely neceffary. All the towns which are fitu- ate on the fouthern, and many of thofe on the weft- ern borders of New-Hampfhire, find it more conve- hient to carry their produce to market, either at Newbury-port, Salem, Bofton or Hartford. The towns on Saco and the northern parts of Connecti- cut river will neceffarily communicate with the ports, in the eaftern divifion of Maffachufetts. The lumber which is cut on the upper part of the Merri- mack, is rafted down that river, and is exported from Newbury-port ; whilft that which is cut on Connecticut river is carried down to Hartford. The greater part of New-Hampfhire is by nature cut off from any commercial intercourfe with the only port in the State. Lumber, being a bulky article, muft be tranfported to the moft convenient landing. Wag- gons or fleys carrying pot and pearl afhes, pork, beef, butter, cheefe, flax and other lefs bulky commodi- ties, and droves of cattle, fheep and fwine, will al- ways be conveyed to thofe places where the vender can find the moft advantageous market.
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For thefe reafons it never was in the power of the government of New-Hampfhire, either before or fince the revolution, to reap the proper advantage, or even afcertain the value of its own productions. When the late Governor Wentworth was called up- on by the Britifh Miniftry for an account of the ' Trade, nett produce and ftaple commodities,' of the then Province, he was obliged to make an exception of the articles 'carried out by land, it being im- ' practicable to afcertain their value.' The fame in- convenience was experienced during the continu- ance of our late partial impofts ; and there could be no proper remedy for it, but the union of the
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States under one general government, with refpect to trade and revenue.
To attempt a particular detail of the number and value of articles of commerce produced in New- Hampfhire, and exported from the various ports of Maffachufetts and Connecticut, is impracticable. To confine the detail to the port of Pafcataqua alone, gives but an imperfect idea of the produce of the whole State ; befides, a part of what is exported thence is produced in the adjoining county of York, which belongs to Maffachufetts. Such accounts, however, as have been obtained from the cuftom- houfe, and from the merchants of Portfmouth, are exhibited at the end of this chapter.
The ftaple commodities of New-Hampfhire may be reduced to the following articles, viz. fhips, lum- ber, provifions, fifh, horfes, pot and pearl afhes, and flax-fced.
Ships are built in all the towns contiguous to the river Pafcataqua, and its branches. They are generally fet up on the banks of the river, but fome- times veffels of an hundreds tons and upwards, have been built at the diftance of one or two miles from the water, and drawn on ftrong fledges of timber, on the fnow, by teams of two hundred oxen, and placed on the ice of the rivers fo as to float in the fpring. They have alfo been built at the diftance of feven or eight miles ; then taken to pieces, and conveyed in common team loads to the fea. Fifhing fchooners and whale-boats are often built at the dif- tance of two or three miles from the water.
There are no workmen more capable of conftrud- ing good fhips, than the carpenters of New-Hamp- fhire. But the goodnefs of a fhip ever did and will depend on the quality of the materials, the nature and promptitude of the pay, and the conftant atten-
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NEW-HAMPSHIRE.
tion of the perfon whofe intereft it is that the fhip fhould be good.
The number of fhips built in the river in 1790, was eight. In 1791, twenty. The price of build- ing is generally from eleven to twelve dollars per ton for the carpenters' work, and lefs than one third more for iron and other work.
The number of fhips and other veffels belonging to the port of Pafcataqua in 1791, is as follows :
Above 100 tons, 33 Under 100 tons, 50
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The white pine of the foreft is the ftrongeft and moit durable timber which America affords for 'mafts. It is often advanced by Europeans, that the pines of Norway exceed thofe of America in ftrength. This is acknowledged to be true whilft the Norway wood retains its natural juices ; but thefe being foon exhaufted by the heat and drynefs of the air, leave the wood lefs firm, and a decay commences much fooner than in the white pine of America. The Norway pine begins to decay in five or fix years ; but the American, with proper care to defend the maft head from moifture, will laft unimpaired for twenty years.
The Britifh navy for eighty years before the late war, received its mafts wholly from America ; which is a proof that our pines are preferable to thofe of Norway. Several of the French fhips of war which were much damaged, in the naval engagement of 1782, in the Weft-Indies, came hither for new mafts ; and have had fufficient opportunity to try the ftrength of our wood. When proper perfons are employed, and fufficient time is given to provide fuitable materials, the foreft of America can fupply any demands which may be made of timber, either
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HISTORY OF
for building, for naval ftores or cabinet work. But a cargo prepared in an injudicious, hafty or fraudu- lent manner, may give a bad name to the American timber in foreign markets ; and prejudice whole · nations againft us.
Contracts for timber fhould always Le made fo as to give time to look for the requifite fticks, and cut them in the proper feafon of the year. If the trees were girdled and left to die fanding, the timber would be much fuperior to any which is cut whilft alive. Trees cut in the fap fhould be ftripped of their bark as foon as poffible ; or they will be dam- aged by the worm. But after all the care and at- tention which can be beflowed on then, many trees which are intended for maits on the ftriet examina- tion which they muft pafs, prove unfit for fervice, and fometimes the labour of a whole fafon is loft.
It is therefore accounted more profitable to get the finaller fpecies of lumber, and efpecially thofe which do not interfere with hufbandry ; which, af- ter all, is much preferable to the lumber bufinefs, both in point of gain, contentment and morals.
Nothing is more convincing than fact and exper- iment. During the late war, the trade in lumber was fufpended, and the people were obliged to attend to hufbandry. They were then able to export large quantities of corn, though for feveral years before the war, it was imported for neceffary confumption. The following ftatement obtained from the naval office, will place this matter in its juft view.
Corn imported into the river Pascataqua.
Corn exported from the river Pascataqua.
Bushels.
1765
6493
1776
2510
1769
4097
1777
1915
1770
16587
1778
5306
1772
4096
1779
3097
Bushels.
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NEW-HAMPSHIRE.
1780
6711
4)31278
1781
5587
Average
p. ann.
7819}
6)25126
Average per ann. 41873
To the above account of exports the following note is added by the naval officer. 'It is likely near ' half as much has been finuggled out of the State and not accounted for.'* It muft alfo be remem- bered that great quantities were carried out by land into the eaftern countries of Maffachufetts. If thefe be added to the lift of exports, the average will come very little fhort of the average of corn import- ed before the war ; and thus it is demonftrable that even thofe towns adjoining the river, in which lum- bering was formerly the chief employment, and in- to which much corn was imported, are fully capable of raifing, not only a fufficiency of provifions for their own fupport, but a furplus for exportation, equal to what they formerly imported, and paid for, in the hard, dangerous and unprofitable labour which always attends the getting of lumber.
At the clofe of the war the high price of lumber induced many people to refume their old employ- ments ; but there has been fo much fluctuation in the demand for that article of late, that no depend- ance can be placed on it, and for this reafon as well as others, hufbandry is daily growing more into ufe. A careful infpection of provifions falted for exporta- tion, would tend to eftablifh the character of them in foreign ports, and greatly encourage the labours of the hufbandman.
The cod fifhery is carried on either by boats or fchooners. The boats, in the winter feafon, go out
* The smuggled corn, during the war, went chiefly to Nova-Scotia ; the country. which by Lord Sheffield's calculation, was to supply the West-Indies with provisions
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HISTORY OF
in the morning and return at night, in the fpring and fummer they do not return till they are filled. The Schooners make three trips to the Banks in a feafon. The firft, or fpring fare, produces large thick fifh, which after being properly falted and dri- ed, is kept alternately above and under ground, till it becomes fo mellow as to be denominated dumb fib. This fifh, when boiled, is red, and is caten generally on Saturdays, at the beft tables in New-England.
The fifth of the fummer and fall fares is divided into two forts, the one called merchantable, and the other Jamaica fifh. Thefe forts are white, thin, and lefs firm. 'The Jamaica fifh is the finalleft, thin- neft, and moft broken. The former is exported to Europe, the latter to the Weft-India Iflands.
The places where the cod fifhery is chiefly attend- ed to are the Ifles of Shoals, Newcaftle, Rye and Hampton ; but all the towns adjoining the river are more or lefs concerned in it. The boats employed in this fithery are of that light and fwift kind called whale-boats. They are rowed either with two or four oars, and ftecred with another; and being equal- ly fharp at cach end, move with the utmoft celerity on the furface of the ocean.
Schooners are generally from twenty to fifty tons, and carry fix or feven men, and one or two boys. When they make a tolerable fare, they bring home five or fix hundred quintals of fifh, fplit, falted, and ftowed in bulk. At their arrival, the fifth is rinfed in falt water, and fpread on hurdles, compofed of brufh, and raifed on ftakes, about three or four feet from the ground ; thefe are called flakes. Here the fifh is dried in clear weather, and in foul weather it is put under cover. It ought never to be wet, from the time that it is firft fpread, till it is boiled for the table.
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NEW-HAMPSHIRE.
Befides the flefhy parts of the cod, its liver is pre- ferved in cafks, and boiled down to oyl, which is ufed by curriers of leather. The tongues and founds are pickled in fmall kegs, and make a luxurious, vif- cid food. The heads are fat and juicy ; but moft of thofe which are caught at fea are thrown away. Of thofe which are caught near home, the greater part become the food of fwine.
The fifhery has not of late years been profecuted with the fame fpirit as formerly. Fifty or fixty years ago, the fhores of the rivers, creeks and iflands were covered with fifh flakes ; and feven or eight fhips were loaded annually for Spain and Portugal ; befides what was carried to the Weft-Indies. After- ward they found it more convenient to make the fifh at Canfeau ; which was nearer to the banks. It was- continued there to great advantage till 1744, when it was broken up by the French war. After the peace it revived, but not in fo great a degree as before. Fifh was frequently cured in the fummer on the eaftern fhores and iflands, and in fpring and fall, at home. Previoufly to the late revolution, the greater part of remittances to Europe was made by the fifheries ; but it has not yet recovered from the fhock which it received by the war with Britain.
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