History of Monmouth County, New Jersey, 1664-1920, Volume II, Part 11

Author: Lewis Historical Publishing Co
Publication date: 1922
Publisher: New York Chicago, Lewis historical Pub. Co.
Number of Pages: 535


USA > New Jersey > Monmouth County > History of Monmouth County, New Jersey, 1664-1920, Volume II > Part 11


Note: The text from this book was generated using artificial intelligence so there may be some errors. The full pages can be found on Archive.org (link on the Part 1 page).


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churches, especially among the Methodist people, on the question of a personal realization of holiness or completeness of religion in the heart and life. This involved the Gospel idea of perfection, and a life in ac- cordance with the "Sermon on the Mount." The masses of the churches were not interested in the doctrine; the few persons that agitated the subject were deemed fanatics. The latter, however, began to increase, and meetings were held, the distinctive battle cry being "Holiness," and at last a great Holiness Camp Meeting was held under the presiding elder- ship of the Rev. Dr. Ballard, afterwards an official in the Ocean Grove Camp Meeting Association. This encampment, which proved a success, encouraged those interested in attempting to establish a resort not only for religious but for vocational and recuperating purposes. The shore of the New Jersey coast being free from malaria and mosquitoes, was deemed to be a favorable location, and the Rev. William B. Osborn was commissioned to explore the coast line to secure a favorable loca- tion. This reverend gentleman finally reported in favor of Ocean Grove on account of its distance from any swamps or sounds, consequently no mosquitoes, the only place along the coast free from that industrious in- sect. There has already been mentioned the original purchase which was made from the "New Jersey Proprietors", who still owned a few spots along the coast whose natural unattractiveness prevented people from se- lecting it as a place of settlement. The land was a deep sand, incapable of cultivation, salted either by the overflow of the sea or the salinity of the atmosphere; it was so utterly worthless that its location was merely nominal.


The first purchase of land was a small area fronting the shore, after- wards supplemented by the acquiring of numerous other plots so as to round out the entire space between the ocean and Lake and Goose ponds, these names afterwards being changed to Wesley and Fletcher lakes to suit the heroes of Methodism. Those lakes represented two beautiful sheets of water fed from the distant sand hills and emptying into the ocean. Their grade, however, was so low that in every storm the sea effectually emptied out all the water, the next storm making a new beach in their front and once again confined their waters. To remedy this condition, in connection with James A. Bradley, who owned adjoin- ing properties, the Association constructed suitable dams with gates, which controlled the difficulty, thus leaving the lakes free for boating and other acquatic sports. Ocean Grove had in its immediate front for a number of years sand dunes varying from four to ten feet in height. These in mild storms retarded the sea, but the storm centers which fre- quently visited the Atlantic coast occasioned great disturbances and once or twice almost destroyed the village. Unsuccessful attempts were made to arrest the destruction by planking the shore line, then piling with plank between was used, all of which failed; finally jetties run into the sea were adopted, and series of them from Wesley lake to Fletcher


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lake were placed about one hundred yards apart and the same distance into the ocean, fastened to double rows of planking to correspond. This experiment proved entirely successful, nature has restored the disrupted shore, and there has never been since any retrocession of the land.


It was in the last week of July, 1869, that a few families, about twenty persons, located in ten poor, dingy and old tents on the seacoast and laid the foundation of Ocean Grove. The conditions of residence thus established, the residence itself became a matter of great im- portance. The place was isolated, six miles from the nearest village, the conveniences obtained there were of the most meagre description. There was one store in the country, about four miles away, and the places that dealt in merchandise in Manasquan and Long Branch were only stocked for village consumption. The modes of travel were also of a primitive character, the sand roads prohibiting any speed faster than a walk, while improvised stages were the only means of transportation to the railroad station, a distance of six miles. The families at first brought hampers of provisions from their homes and stayed until their supplies gave out, when they would return home for more or contracted with the stage driver to bring it to them on its arrival. Then clubbing was re- sorted to, and a team was sent once a week to procure store goods, also an order was left with the storekeeper for the next week. The bushes, however, furnished blueberries for desert, while the sea was plentiful with its supply of edibles. At last a store was started at the Grove, but patronage was not extensive and change of ownership often took place. John Martin was the first boarding house keeper, he furnishing lodgings in a tent, while meals were served in the open air. The people who wished to pass the summer at the Grove were in many cases not finan- cially able, therefore needed some addition to their resources. While they needed the benefit of the sea-air and were willing to work, the only em- ployment that could be found was the taking care of other people. Hence the cottages which had been erected offered their spare room for the entertainment of those who were willing to pay for accommodations. The prosperity of this business caused larger developments to materialize, and the Howland House was erected by Coryell Howland, a farmer living near, who thus utilized the products of his farm. This was soon followed by others, in fact, too many for profit, and Charles Howland built a first class hotel which he named The Arlington, until at the present, places for visitors are so numerous that Ocean Grove offers to vacationists and sojourners at the seashore any kind of hotel accommodations that are desired for recreation and pleasure. The residences have also kept pace with these improvements from a cost of fifty dollars upwards, some reach- ing into sextuples of thousands and even to greater outlay of wealth.


In the inception of Ocean Grove very few sanitary rules were neces- sary. The conceptions of hygiene, however, have always connected health with water, therefore this became a momentous question. The


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sands were drilled, a stratum of solid clay was passed at a depth from fif- teen to thirty feet, iron pipes were driven and the highest chemical an- alysis proved that a constant flow of water could be obtained of the greatest purity. These surface pumps answered all demands for several years, when overcrowded population so saturated the surface that there was a fear of pollution and it was decided to bore deeper. At the depth of four hundred and fifty feet water as pure as that originally found gushed in great abundance to the surface. This abundance of water forced by a plant with all modern appliance of science running through pipes in every street, reached every family. The waste is used in flush- ing the sewers, also is available in case of fires. Thus Ocean Grove has water of the freshest purity for table use and for outward cleansing. The first arrangements for sea bathing were of a primitive character, there was no seclusion except what the trees and absence of people afford- ed. The men went off a distance and bathed in garb of nature; the women, robed in garments whose days of usefulness was passed, found secluded places to enjoy their bathing. Soon private bath houses were erected and bathing suits were introduced, a bathing master being em- ployed to take care of the houses. The population so increased, it was found practicable to place the entire business in the hands of one man, and Captain W. T. Street was granted a franchise to erect and rent bath- ing houses and dresses. Safety lines fastened to stakes were installed by him, so timid or weakly people could thus enjoy the vigor-inspiring surf without the exhaustion of a struggle with the waves. These precautions made bathing popular, and crowds of excursionists, attracted by this safety in bathing, began to fill the shore. Indoor bathing in heated salt water was also introduced and soon became one of the great attractions.


The most important of avenues of Ocean Grove is Ocean Pathway, a pair of streets enclosing a beautiful park and lined with tasteful resi- dences and hotels. It has a width of three hundred feet, mostly occupied by its parks, which have been developments into spots of beauty by land. scape gardening. Among the other notable points is the Memorial, near the Auditorium, where trees have been planted bearing names of deceased dignitaries of the church and members of the association. The first spot used for religious services bears the name of Thompson, after a bishop of the church. Another place of verdant beauty is named Greenleaf, and one on higher ground Park Heights; still another on Main street is called Woodland; while at the entrance of the great school building an- other spot is named Evergreen. These are favorite resting places for the crowds of excursionists after becoming weary in their explorations of this famous resort.


In the beginning, the only available post office was Long Branch or Squan, but in 1871 application was made to the Postoffice Department for the establishment of a local office, which was granted. Though at various times attempts have been made to consolidate the postoffice with


OCEAN GROVE AUDITORIUM With Monument to Rev. Ellwood H. Stokes


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Asbury Park, it has never been consummated. Though the first arrange- ment for fire protection was the primitive one of two or four pails of water in every tent for immediate use, which was afterwards supple- mented by an old style machine and a company of volunteers, Ocean Grove today has a well organized fire department, housed in a spacious brick structure with all the appliances of modern comfort. Its residents are also protected by a complete and modern police department, its streets illuminated with an arc electric system, while incandescent lights are used for commercial and family use.


The greatest of all ideals of Ocean Grove and the purpose for which it was founded, is the Camp Meeting. The most eminent divines in the land and other countries, irrespective of denomination, are secured for preachers upon the one line of "Holiness to the Lord." Care is taken that only those whose voices can be heard in the great auditorium, are secured. The music is by a choir numbering hundreds, which is swelled by the voices of thousands in the congregation. The camp meeting is always preceded by a day of consecration and prayer in which people pledge their work in the activities of religion, and whose evening is de- voted to the Lord's Supper, in which two to three thousand commune. It was originally fixed for ten days, but owing to the pressure of people has been extended. The central Sabbath is the great day of the feast, on which the love feast with the testimonies of personal religious con- sciousness is the central power of its religious life. The close of the camp meeting is marked by specialties of music and the reports of committees on religious work. Then comes the march, led by music, the president and officers followed by the people leaving the Auditorium, proceeding through the Tabernacle, the Chapel, the Temple, pausing at each for a minute's solemnity, and then returning to the Auditorium, where after a short address by the president, amid the waving of handkerchiefs, tears of joyous excitement, praises of devotion, grasping of hands in pledge of amity, in harmony with the tolling of the bell, in the name of the Father, of the Son and of the Holy Ghost, the president declares the en- campment closed. The Association Hall, sixty feet square of brick con- struction, three stories in height with a basement, was erected in 1871. The building was dedicated August 1, 1871, and is occupied as the busi- ness office of the Association, a large hall in the second story being used for religious exercises.


St. Paul's Methodist Episcopal Church was organized in 1874 with the Rev. H. B. Beegle as pastor. The Ocean Grove Association donated the land and $1000 to the building fund. The corner-stone was laid August 1, 1875, the church was completed and ready for use May 22, 1876, and was dedicated by Bishop Edmund S. Janes, August 1, 1876. The building cost $8,000, and was used until it was sold to the school dis- trict of Asbury Park in the spring of 1882. From that time, services were held in Association Hall. The society purchased its present loca-


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tion on Embury and New York avenues, a cornerstone of a new church building was laid December 2, 1884, and a frame edifice was erected at a cost of about $20,000. The Bishop Janes Memorial Tabernacle is a frame building on Mt. Carmel Way, sixty by eighty feet, and has a seating capacity of one thousand persons. It was dedicated June 14, 1877.


The borough of Bradley Beach, formerly known as Neptune village, was erected from a portion of Neptune township on March 28, 1893, with the following boundaries: Beginning at a point in the high water mark of the Atlantic ocean where Fletcher lake empties into said ocean; thence westerly along Fletcher lake and Fletcher brook to the easterly line of the New York and Long Branch Railway Company; thence southerly along the line of said railway company to the northerly line of the bor- ough of Neptune City; thence easterly along the line of said borough to high-water mark of the Atlantic ocean and thence northerly along said high-water mark to the place of beginning. All that portion of the Bor- ough of Neptune City, which was incorporated as a borough, October 4, 1881, east of the tracks of the New York and Long Branch railway, was annexed to Bradley Beach in 1907.


The borough of Avon by the Sea, formerly known as Key East, is located on Shark river, in the southeast corner of Neptune township, front which it was formed in 1900. Its site was included in a tract of 265 acres patented to Gavin Drummond, November 12, 1701. It was bounded on the east by the ocean, on the south by Shark river, on the north by Duck creek (now Sylvan lake) and on the west by lands of William West. The property practically remained intact until 1851, when the owner, John Fields, died, and about twenty different parties became the proprietors, all of whom about 1880 conveyed their interest to William Batchelor of Philadelphia. In 1883 the avenues and streets were graded and lots laid out, the avenues being eighty feet wide and the lots fifty by one hundred and fifty feet in width. Avon Inn and Berwick Lodge were built in the above year and a thriving village soon sprang up. The bor- ough incorporated March 23, 1900, gives the metes and bounds as follows: "All that portion of Neptune township described as follows: Beginning at a large gray stone on the north side of Duck creek, being the northeast corner of a tract now or formerly of Edward Batchelor's land known as the Swanton Tract; thence extending westerly along the northerly line of said tract and in the line of James A. Bradley's land, the several courses thereof to a point at the intersection of the westerly line of the New York and Long Branch railroad; thence southerly along the westerly line of said railroad to Shark river; thence down along said river to the inlet at the ocean; thence northerly along the ocean to a point in the southeast course from the aforesaid beginning corner; and thence northwesterly to the beginning point."


Avon-by-the-Sea is governed by a commission form of government, having a population of about seven hundred souls. The educationa!


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facilities are of the best, consisting of a fine public school and a free library erected in 1916. The Home of the Merciful Saviour for Crippled Children on Sylvania avenue is supported and under the charge of Epis- copal churches in Philadelphia. The religious life of the borough is centered in the St. John's Protestant Episcopal Church on the corner of First and Woodland avenues and is without a settled rector, the pulpit being supplied during the summer months by visiting clergymen. The St. Elizabeth Roman Catholic Church on Lincoln and Fifth avenues was erected in 1908 and is under the charge of the Rev. John J. O'Hara, rec- tor of the Roman Catholic church at Bradley Beach. The Avon Meth- odist Protestant Church on Fifth and Garfield avenues was erected in 1916 and is ministered to by Rev. A. L. Peterson. The Methodist Epis- copal Church was established as a mission of the Asbury Park Church by Rev. Thomas Taylor, who was the first pastor in 1878. The present building was erected in 1887, and Rev. R. B. Bresnahan is the pastor.


CHAPTER XLVIII.


SEA GIRT


Sea Girt comprises with other land the point formerly known among the early inhabitants of this county as Wreck Pond, where now stands the Government light house. Wreck Pond as a bathing resort was known for generations past to people from many miles around.


It was a custom among the Indians to flock for one day of the sum- mer to the sea shore, where they bathed and feasted on baked clams. These Indians were of the Delaware or Lenni-Lenape tribe, and of the great family of Algonquins who inhabited the territory from Hudson's Bay to the Gulf of Mexico, westward to the Rocky Mountains; they lived in the valleys of the rivers or streams, each family occupying its own home, and paying no regard to cleanliness nor the laws of sanitation, so that it may be assumed that they regarded one bath a year as sufficient for their comfort and hence they journeyed but once a year to the ocean where the supply of water was unlimited.


In passing, it may be of interest to note that notwithstanding the impression that the Indians were as free as the air of the land and forests through which they roamed, by an act of the General Assembly of the Province of New Jersey in 1704 they were treated as slaves, and so con- tinued down to 1797, when Chief Justice Kinsey at the April Term of our Supreme Court of that year, in State vs. Van Waggoner, 1 Halst. 459, on habeas corpus to bring up the body of Rose, an Indian woman, claim- ed by Van Waggoner as a slave, held that the Indians had been so long recognized as slaves under our law that it would be as great a violation of the rights of property to establish a contrary doctrine at the (then) present day, as it would in the case of Africans; and useless to investigate the manner in which they originally lost their freedom.


That course of treatment was wholly out of harmony with the in- structions given by Lords Proprietors Berkeley and Carteret in 1664 to Governor Carteret, enjoining him and his Councillors, should they hap- pen to find any natives in our Province, that they should treat them with all humanity and kindness, and not in anywise grieve or oppress them, but endeavor by a Christian carriage to manifest piety, justice and char- ity, and in their conversation with them the manifestation whereof would prove beneficial to the planters and also advantageous to the pro- pagation of the gospel. (Leaming and Spicer's Grants and Concessions of New Jersey).


For thus enslaving the Indians, perhaps some atonement was done and distinction afterwards acquired by our State, as within its bounds


Note-This was received too late for proper placement on earlier pages .- Editor.


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was established the first Reservation in the United States for the segre- gation of the Indians; and a tract of 3000 acres at a place then known as Edgepelick or Brotherton, now known as Indians Mills, in Burlington county, near the Camden county line, was set apart for their use in the year 1758.


While this custom of bathing survived and on Big Sea Day, the second Saturday in August, the people from miles about came in sheet- top wagons and all sorts of conveyances to meet their friends and to bathe. During those early days the upland near the beach was covered with a stunted growth of cedars, among which the farmers camped with their families, using the shelter of the trees and their wagons as bathing rooms, from which they emerged clad in grotesque and primitive cos- tumes for bathing. Many left their homes on Friday afternoon before, sleeping in their wagons during Friday night. Hundreds of wagons might be seen passing a given point on their way to and from the sea shore. After having spent the day in bathing and hilarity, and the greeting of friends and acquaintances, many of the bathers departed to the old-time taverns, then to be found at frequent intervals along the highways of travel, and there passed the remainder of the day and even- ing in dancing and drinking and boisterous sports. The gathering of these people with caravans upon the beach formed a picture that was unique and full of interest to the curious summer visitor, but his coming and the conventionalities of the present day have drawn a curtain upon the scene which has passed into history.


As at present known, Sea Girt included a tract of about eight hun- dred acres, made up of the Bell farm, owned in 1847 by Dr. Charles Montrose Graham, of New York City; and of the John Sherman farm, acquired in 1853 by Commodore Robert F. Stockton. Upon this tract Commodore Stockton erected a commodious summer mansion, now so near the surf that the wide expanse of ocean seems viewed as from a vessel's deck. At that time there was a sward of green grass between the surf and the mansion, from which a broad staircase, with two large ornamental bathing houses standing upon either side, led down to the water. The writer of a small work entitled "Kobbe's Jersey Coast and Pines," 1889, in describing this Mansion House, wrote "Those and they are many whose imaginations are pleasantly stimulated by the nautical character of the piazza, will be pleased to learn that the mansion has a veritable ship's bottom, so that, were it to be carried away by the sea, it would ride the waves in gallant style."


Authentic information justifies the statement that the author of that description might be properly placed in a class with those whose imagi- nations had been stimulated by something else than a desire to be histori- cally accurate, for this mansion has a substructure not differing from buildings of its kind. This building was erected by John G. Stiles as master builder, and by Richard Borden as master mason, both then of


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Manasquan, in a day when carpenters and builders were paid $1.25 for a day's work from sun to sun. Labor unions, strikes, lock-outs, open and closed shops, were then unknown to the American laborer.


On this tract there was also erected by the Commodore a dwelling, now near the Central railroad station, which is now owned by the estate of Mr. Charles Mellon, deceased. This dwelling was modeled after col- onial style, with large columns extending to the roof, and by the family was called "The Cottage." Tradition has it that the Commodore was induced to build the cottage because of the timidity of Mrs. Stockton, who would spend the daytime in the mansion, but was not willing to pass the night there because of her fear that the ocean would engulf and wash them away during the night. In front of the cottage he had a three- quarter mile race track where he exercised his blooded horses for the en- tertainment of his family and guests, who viewed the racing from the cottage porch.


Concerning the delightful times which as a child she spent at Sea Girt, Miss Harriet Maria Dod, a granddaughter of Commodore Stockton, writes a very interesting letter. Her grandfather had there as many of his children and grandchildren as he could get together, spending six weeks of each summer there until a year or two before the Commodore's death in 1866. She says that daily her grandfather and grandmother, uncles, aunts, cousins, etc., came to the cottage, some driving, some walk- ing, from the Beach House, over a narrow board walk to dinner at two to three o'clock in the afternoon. This dinner was a grand and stately function, all dressed in their best, and the children as a rule on their good behavior, occupying a square table to themselves behind the "grown- ups" as she puts it. The dinner finished, the elder people retired to the bowling alley, where the children were entertained by the bowlers. Tiring of this, the grandfather and the aunts usually took a horseback ride, the Commodore mounted on his beautiful pure Arabian white horse with black spots, accompanied by the grandmother and others in their carriages, forming a stately procession.


Breakfast and supper for the Commodore and his guests were served at the Beach House, while the children ate at the cottage. For the chil- dren, the afternoons were usually spent on the beach or in roaming about the farm and garden and through the woods. On one of the walks with her father, Miss Dod speaks of going to a little shop in Squan Village kept by Captain Brannin, who had most alluring tubs and pails of all colors, which they bought to play with on the beach; and of the fat and good-natured Captain Sam Curtis, who had wonderful tales to relate. In those days, with the exception of a few fishermen's huts, at least one- half mile away toward the south, there were no houses to be seen along the bluff.




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