USA > New Jersey > The New Jersey coast in three centuries; history of the New Jersey coast with genealogical and historic-biographical appendix, Vol. II > Part 5
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Port Republic, a village of three hundred inhabitants, on the west bank of the Mullica River, is in near proximity to Chestnut Neck, which was the scene of important events in Colonial and Revolutionary times. There was made the first settlement in what is now known as Atlantic county, in 1637, when John Mullica sailed up the river which took his name and became the division line between the Provinces of East and West Jersey. Many families of the present day are descended from the Quaker colony which was formed there about that time, under William Penn.
When the independence of the Colonies was proclaimed, Chestnut Neck was the largest village on the Jersey coast, a veritable trade center, and its importance in this respect, and the active patriotism of its people, incited the British to burn it in 1777.
Old Weymouth, Batsto and Pleasant Mills, once among the most important industrial points in Southern Jersey, now mere hamlets, are noticed more fully in our chapter on "Manufactures." Atlantic City is written of at length in the chapter on "Shore Resorts."
Rio Grande, now a hamlet of less than a hundred inhabitants, in the southern portion of Cape May county, was for some years following after 1881 the scene of a pretentious manufacturing industry, which termin- ated disastrously.
In 1881 was passed by the State Legislature an act for the encourage- ment of the manufacture of sugar in New Jersey, and providing for the payment out of the public treasury of a bounty of one dollar per ton to the farmer for each ton of cane out of which crystallized cane sugar was actually
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produced, and for the payment of a bounty of one cent per pound to the manufacturer for each pound of sugar actually made from such product. After the enactment of this bounty law the Senate requested the United States Agricultural Department to experiment with the sorghum plant in order to further its cultivation by the farmers of the State.
The firm of J. Hilgert's Sons, sugar refiners of Philadelphia, erected a large refinery at Rio Grande, at an expense exceeding $60,000. During the first year of its operation the refinery manufactured sugar from the cane produced on about seven hundred acres of land in the immediate vicin- ity. The product realized seven to eight cents per pound, and from the standpoint of the refiners the results were deemed reasonably satisfactory. The farmers, however, were greatly disappointed-the cane yield was but five tons per acre, where they had believed it would be ten tons, and the seed product was but twenty bushels instead of thirty, as they had ex- pected. The largest cane grower in the vicinity realized from one hundred and twenty acres of land 641 tons of cane and 2,500 bushels of seed.
The Hilgerts were succeeded by the Rio Grande Sugar Company, which invested large sums of money in the purchase of lands and cane growing. Larger crops were grown and considerable sugar was made, but the difficulties were great-sugar depreciated ruinously in the market, and with existing methods of diffusion fifty per cent. of the saccharine mat- ter in the cane remained unutilized. To add to these difficulties the State bounty was withdrawn in 1885 and the Rio Grande Sugar Company passed out of existence with the close of the year 1886, after having made lavish expenditures in futile attempts to render the process of diffusion (or ex- traction of saccharine matter) more economical.
Early in the following year Henry A. Hughes, a resident of Cape May City, who had been superintendent of the refinery from its institution, effected the organization of the Hughes Sugar Company, and with the co-operation of the United States Department of Agriculture built a small refinery having a capacity for working some twenty tons per diem. The machinery for topping, stripping and shredding the cane was of his own invention in greater part, and he also introduced a new process of diffusion. The results for the year were satisfactory in many respects. The experience derived, pointing to other improvements where saving could be made in time, labor and expense, also afforded encouragement. Numerous changes were planned which were expected to produce more satisfactory results, and the New Jersey Agricultural Experiment Station appropriated a con- siderable sum to aid the enterprise. These plans, however, were not put into execution, and in 1890 the sorghum industry was abandoned.
Woodbine, a flourishing town of 1.400 population, in Cape May county,
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owes its founding to the great Hebrew philanthropist, Baron de Hirsch, who in 1891 there founded a colony of Jews, principally Russians and Po- landers, victims of Russian oppression. The title to the property com- prising a tract of 5,300 acres, was vested, by the terms of his will, in the Woodbine Land Investment Company. In 1894 was founded the Baron de Hirsch Agricultural and Industrial School, which was opened that year with forty-two students, and at the last report this number had been in- creased to ninety-six. The buildings comprise college buildings proper, and a dormitory building for teachers and pupils. The course of study em- braces the English branches, with practical farming and dairying for young men and domestic employment for girls. In 1897 the town of Wood- bine was platted. The location is ideal, and the inhabitants take great pride in beautifying their homes. The public buildings are a Hebrew synagogue, erected at a cost of $7,000; a Baptist church, which cost $2,500; two school buildings, one built by the Land Company and another by the school dis- trict. Among the industries are a clothing factory employing 168 people, a lock company employing 40 people ; and a machine and tool works employ- ing 28 people. The population includes 160 Hebrew and 34 Gentile fam- ilies, and about one-half of the entire number own their homes.
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CHAPTER II.
THE COAST AS THE SHORE RESORT OF NEW JERSEY-A CHAIN OF PRETTY TOWNS AND VILLAGES.
Within a space of time not much more than one-half a century, resorts for health and pleasure have been established at almost every available spot on the shores of the Atlantic, from the rugged ocean barriers of Maine to the coral reefs of Florida. Between these far separated extremes are cities and villages presenting every feature of attraction and desirability. There are spots, as along the more northern coast, which are delightful in summer, but are wellnigh uninhabitable in winter ; and others, as in Florida, which are grateful to the winter sojourner, but almost unendurable during the remainder of the year.
Almost midway between these far geographical and climatic extremes lie the shores of New Jersey, stretching away from Sandy Hook to Cape May, affording the widest diversity of advantages and charms for perma- nent resident or temporary visitor, from a social standpoint, but not greatly dissimilar climatically. Here the cooling sea breezes from the far north mingle with the balmy zephyrs from the tropics, and the waters of the ocean, tempered by the warmth of the Gulf Stream, are unpolluted by stain or odor from factory or mine. The beach, floored with smoothest, cleanest sand that could not soil the fairest foot, is paralleled by path and drive ways ample for all manner of vehicles, for horseman and for cyclist.
Dotting this coast along its entire length is a succession of towns and villages so nearly approaching each other as to almost form one contin- uous line of human habitations, from the beautiful cottage to the elegant mansion, with their lawns and flower gardens of exuberant foliage and ex- quisite fragrance. The towns are of every characteristic save one-there is none given over to the vicious classes. and none where good morals are contemned or modesty offended.
There are veritable cities, with their church edifices which would grace a metropolis, libraries sufficient for all needs save those of the delver in the deepest fields of technical science, opera houses and club houses, and
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HISTORY OF THE NEW JERSEY COAST.
shops displaying the finest fabrics. They are also world famous as ocean resorts, affording pleasures and social advantages comparable only with the most celebrated European watering places. Here are hotels really palatial in their vast dimensions, beautiful architecture and sumptuous ap- pointments, containing under a single roof all that can minister to personal comfort and give indoor delight. They contain spacious apartments for concert and ball, and the orchestra maintained through the season is as capable of giving a masterly rendition of the delightfully soft and sooth- ing nocturne from Mendelssohn's "Midsummer Night's Dream" before a parlor audience as of playing the inspiring "Blue Danube Waltzes" in the brilliant ball room. There are billiard and card rooms, and special play rooms and grounds for children. Here fashion has its unlimited sway. Here are worn costumes which would grace a queen's drawing room, and jewels a princess well might envy.
Other towns there are which have grown out of such a sentiment as was expressed by the gentle poet who, one season long ago, set up his "Tent on the Beach," far from the tumult of the giddy throng, and, looking upon old ocean, listening to its deep solemn diapason, reverentially wrote:
"The harp at nature's advent strung Has never ceased to play ; The song the stars of morning sung Has never died away.
"And prayer is made and praise is given By all things near and far- The ocean looketh up to heaven And mirrors every star.
"Its waves are kneeling on the strand As kneels the human knee, Their white locks bending to the sand, The priesthood of the sea.
"And nature keeps the rev'rent frame With which her years began ; And all her signs and voices shame The prayerless heart of man."
Such towns were founded to be the summer abode of a class of people of more simple tastes and more reflective mind than the fashionable water- ing-place visitor. They were also designed to be the assembling place for
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HISTORY OF THE NEW JERSEY COAST.
organized bodies of religionists and humanitarians, and great auditoriums ivere erected for the accommodation of religious, benevolent and educa- tional associations before which appear many of the leading pulpit orators, educators, philanthropists and scientists not only of America but from all parts of the civilized world.
There are also many modest villages which make no pretense to recog- nition as places of popular resort, nor boast of peculiar advantages, which are sought by hosts of those in quest of rest and mild recreation, who find their wants supplied at a moderate expense.
But for all-the fashionable pleasure seeker and the humble care- laden or disease-stricken one-are the shining beach and the refreshments of ocean and wave. The surf bathing is at once a most pleasant and health- ful pastime, and it has been made almost as safe as pond bathing. Minute information is printed with reference to tide hours and currents ; life lines are placed at all points where large parties resort ; and life savers are on duty at almost all hours. For those too timid to enter the surf, or whose physi- cal condition will not permit the great shock, there are the natatoriums with their large pools of tepid sea water. All, the robust and the invalid, are exhilarated by the vitalizing sea air, and in speaking of diseases of the respiratory organs, a capable physician has said: "I have had personal knowledge of many patients suffering from various forms of such affections who have made trials of the climate. The cases have, as a rule, improved, some of them very decidedly, though there have been exceptions. Consump- tives in the incipient stage, and even those in the advanced stages of the disease, where the destructive process has advanced slowly, have often ex- perienced marked improvement and, in some cases, have been cured."
Inland are delightful well-kept roads stretching away to where, beau- tiful to the eye, and giving out an aroma grateful and healing to long op- pressed lungs now expanding into renewed activity in breathing the air of primeval nature,
"The murmuring pines
Bearded with moss, and in garments green, indistinct in the twilight Stand like Druids of eld, with voices sad and prophetic.
Stand like harpers hoar. with beards that rest on their bosoms."
Here and there, hidden away within the forest, are placid lakes where boating may be enjoyed without thought of fear. At another point is a veritable nature's old curiosity shop, where giant trees and vines take on all sorts of fantastic shape. Here is found a little body of water strikingly remindful of the Lake of the Dismal Swamp-a rare spot to visit by the light
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of the moon. Looking up the tortuous stream which feeds it, the straggling moonbeam which creeps through the trees fringing its bank and glints upon its waters far away, would seem to be sign of the presence of the phantom Indian maiden, and one almost expects to catch a glimpse of
"The lover and maid so true, Seen at the hour of midnight damp, To cross the lake by a fire-fly lamp And paddle their white canoe."
All this region is readily accessible from New York City and front Philadelphia-so much so that many men of large affairs whose business interests lie in one or the other of those cities make their residence in some coast town and travel daily back and forth. There are all rail routes over the Pennsylvania Railroad and over the Central Railroad of New Jersey, from New York, and over the Pennsylvania and the Lehigh Valley lines from Philadelphia.
A favorite line of travel from New York is by the Sandy Hook water route, from the foot of Rector street down the harbor, past Bedloe's Island, upon which stands the great statue of Liberty holding aloft her torch of enlightenment, then under the guns of Castle William on Governor's Isl- and, and past Fort Hamilton and Fort Wadsworth, which guard the Nar- rows, into the Lower Bay, landing at Atlantic Highlands, where rail con- nection is made for the coast towns to the southward. A fleet of splen- didly equipped steamers, the "Monmouth," the "St. Johns" and the "Sandy Hook" ply this route during the summer months, and among their patrons are many business men of the metropolis who maintain summer residences on the coast. The distance is twenty miles, and the time occupied in the trip is one hour.
Another pleasant water route is that of the Patten Steamboat Line, the vessels of which sail from New York. After landing at Highland Beach, the boats pass up the Shrewsbury River to Pleasure Bay, where trolley car connection is made for Long Branch and points farther to the south.
Atlantic Highlands, the nearest to the metropolis of the shore resorts of New Jersey, rising to a height of two hundred feet above the shores of the Shrewsbury River, are crowned with heavy native forest trees. Open- ing out northward are the waters of Sandy Hook Bay, an expanse of three miles in width, dotted with the white sails of all manner of small craft, bearing pleasure seekers or fishermen. It is an ideal spot for boating, fish- ing and yachting, and here the Pavonia Yacht Club maintains an elegant club house, and the New York Yacht Club a sailing station. The drives in the neighborhood, toward Locust Point, Oceanic, the Rumson Road
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HISTORY OF THE NEW JERSEY COAST.
and Navesink, present varied attractions to the eye, with verdure of forest and field, and pretty modern cottages and quaint farm residences of an olden time. One of the most captivating points of view is Point Lookout, on the summit of Bay View avenue, where stood a block house during the War of 1812. From this spot is visible the Highlands lighthouse, Sandy Hook, its lighthouse, life saving station buildings and the government ordnance proving grounds, are seen to the northeast, while beyond are anchored the two light-ships "Sandy Hook" and "Scotland." Well to the north lie the Narrows, with their forts on either side, where Long Isl- and traces its way to the eastward, and Staten Island to the westward.
Atlantic Highlands, formerly known as Portland Point, received its present name in 1879, when the lands upon which the village is located were purchased by the Atlantic Highlands Association for camp meeting purposes. It has now a permanent population of 1,383, and has a complete borough organization with a mayor and council. Roads and streets are
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INSIDE THE COAST.
maintained in excellent order. Water is supplied from artesian wells, dis- tributed from a standpipe, and the village is to be lighted by electricity. There are eight commodious hotels and numerous private boarding houses. The new station of the Central Railroad of New Jersey, with its grounds artistically laid out in flower mounds, is a beautiful ornament.
The Water Witch Club House is situated almost at the summit of the famous Highlands of Navesink, overlooking Sandy Hook Bay, Nave- sink and Shrewsbury Rivers and the Atlantic Ocean. Water Witch Park
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HISTORY OF THE NEW JERSEY COAST.
derives its name from James Fenimore Cooper's novel, "Water Witch," of which many of the scenes were laid in Sandy Hook Bay and upon the adjacent Navesink Highlands.
The locality has most interesting reminiscences for the student of Colonial and Revolutionary history. The reader of Cooper's delightful romance will recall the strangely-named villa, "Lust in Rust," built by the smuggling Dutch Alderman Van Beverout upon one of these elevations, and the adventures of the "Water Witch," guided by the mysterious sea- green lady, which glided in and out of a secret inlet that existed near the Hook. Nothing now remains of the dwelling of the portly alderman and Lady Barberie, his lovely ward, excepting the cellar, filled with the debris of fallen walls.
Around the club house, winding in and out among the trees, are pretty walks and drives, whose names are suggestive of the novel, such as Coquette Lane, Fenimore Terrace, Cupid Path, Witch's Lane, Gypsy Pass and Water Witch Drive.
Standing on the veranda of the club house, looking toward the ocean, is seen the site of the old inlet through which the famous "Water Witch" used to enter Shrewsbury River. In front of the club house, on the eastern slope of the Highlands, is Seadrift Path, and on the right is "Seadrift," the summer cottage of E. S. Atwood, treasurer of the Water Witch Club.
Four or five hundred feet north of the "Lust in Rust" ruins is the site of the "Huddy Tree" (now fallen) where the patriot, Joshua Huddy, was cruelly hung by the Tories on April 12, 1782.
The Water Witch Club is composed principally of New York gentle- men who spend the summer months at the Highlands, each member occupy- ing his own cottage, and all of the cottages convenient to the club house, where the members and their families gather daily for social converse and where the stranger is always most kindly entertained.
Parkertown, four miles south of Atlantic Highlands, is a beautiful village near the seashore. Its five hotels and numerous private boarding houses accommodate a summer population of about three thousand. In the vicinity are numerous extensive and handsomely improved estates, the property of old families long identified with the region, or wealthy people from New York. A long drawbridge crosses the Shrewsbury River at this point. Here are located the famous twin-lighthouses of the Nave- sink, and near them, upon the tract owned by the government, is the high- est flagstaff in America, which was erected by public subscriptions. From this is daily displayed the national flag-the first flag on land to be seen from the deck of a vessel approaching the harbor of New York. This is a favorite spot for bluefishing parties, and there is record of individual
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catches of one hundred and twenty-three, weighing from three to six pounds apiece, in one day.
Highland Beach, not more than one mile distant from the Highlands of the Navesink ( Parkertown Station) is much frequented by picnic and excursion parties from New York and Brooklyn, and is provided with all manner of amusements in vogue at a one-day resort. The ocean and the Shrewsbury River are but a few yards apart, and the beach and stream afford exceptional facilities for bathing and fishing. On the shore just north- ward are seen the remains of the wrecked vessel "Kate Markee," which came ashore in the winter of 1893. A pitiful incident of that disaster was the death by drowning of the seven men comprising the crew of the ill- fated ship, in spite of the desperate efforts of the life saving crew and a multitude of citizens.
The old railroad crossing the river at this point has for many years been the property of the national government, and has been extended to the ordnance proving grounds at Sandy Hook, and over it passes all the great guns conveyed to that point, on cars built especially for that purpose.
Normandie, a very little farther south, is best known for its Hotel Normandie, a large and commodious house, conducted upon the highest scale of excellence. Near by are numerous elegant cottages, notably that belonging to General Frederick P. Earle. The little settlement is a favorite summer home for business men of New York, who travel back and forth daily.
Seabright, distant from New York a little more than twenty-six miles, lying between the ocean and the Shrewsbury River, is one of the most de- lightful villages on the coast, and in its beautifying no expense has been spared. With a permanent population of not more than twelve hundred (1,198 according to the census of 1900) it affords home-like accommoda- tions for as many as five thousand people during the summer months. The village has a borough government which maintains excellent streets, a sys- tem of waterworks and perfect sewerage. The lighting is by electricity. Religion is represented by a Presbyterian church and education by a public school, both of which are liberally supported. In 1890 the principal busi- ness portion of the village and a portion of the adjoining fishing settlement were destroyed by fire, but not a hotel or cottage was toched by the flames.
The hotels are of the best, and either stand close alongside the beach or immediately overlook it. The Octagon, of entirely modern construction with spacious piazzas its full length on either side, provides accommoda- tions for three hundred and fifty guests. An orchestra is maintained, and daily and weekly dancing parties are held in the spacious ball room. In connection with this hotel is the Octagon Cottage, for the convenience of
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HISTORY OF THE NEW JERSEY COAST.
those who need to leave at early hours. Also on the beach is the Penin- sula Hotel, and the Rutherford Arms and Panacci's are west of the rail- road, facing the principal street. The Casino is an attractive restaurant adjacent to the bathing houses, and reached by a broad promenade of four hundred feet extending the length of the breakwater. The houses of resi- dent property owners are of beautiful design, in all styles of architecture, and are surrounded by well kept lawns adorned with ornamental trees and shrubbery and every flower the climate will nurture.
The social life of the community during the summer season is exclu- sive, and in large degree centers in various clubs whose membership is restricted to cottage owners and summer visitors of recognized position in society. The Seabright Beach Club, organized to provide for its members exclusive accommodations for bathing and greater conveniences than were afforded by the public bathing houses, occupies a handsome club house upon the beach and near the railroad station. The entire lower floor is divided into handsomely appointed bathing and dressing rooms. The upper floor contains reception, reading and smoking rooms, with a sun-parlor overlook- ing the ocean. The Shrewsbury River affords excellent boating and fish- ing. Both hard and soft shelled clams are abundant, and the clambakes at Pleasure Bay near by are farms throughout the country.
The adjoining fishing village of Nauvoo appears in striking contrast with beautiful Seabright, and is in some degree reminiscent of conditions along the entire coast in earlier days, before came wealth and culture. Pre- vious to the destructive fire previously referred to, the fishermen's village consisted of rows of unsightly unpainted single-story shacks and packing houses, and the beach was lined with fishing boats with upturned keels. Hundreds of these poor people were rendered homeless, and were cared for by charity until they were enabled to rebuild homes for themselves. This is the largest fishing settlement on the coast, and was located on account of its proximity to the famous fishing banks on the south and to other pro- ductive grounds near by.
Well kept roads lead from Seabright into an inland region, rich in historic reminiscences and presenting beautiful views of landscape adorned with elegant modern dwellings and quaint dignified homes of the Colonial type. The Rumson Road, lying between Seabright and Red Bank, famous as the most beautiful driveway in New Jersey, is constantly thronged in season with equipages which for elegance can not be surpassed in any city in the world. For miles on either side the road is lined with the summer residences of well known people of New York, those who are leaders in finance, in commerce and in the social world, who have expended fortunes in beautifying their estates. Their elegant homes, representing every style
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