USA > Nevada > Washoe County > General History and Resources of Washoe County, Nevada, Published Under the Auspices of the Nevada Educational Association > Part 5
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PYRAMID LAKE.
The beautiful Pyramid Lake, discovered by Lieutenant John C. Fremont on the roth of Jan- uary, 1844, lies in the southern part of Roop County. In Fremont's "Explorations " he gives the following: -
"Beyond, a defile between the mountains de- scended rapidly about 2,000 feet, and filling up all the lower space was a sheet of green water some twenty miles broad. It broke upon our eyes like the ocean. The neighboring peaks rose
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high above us, and we ascended one of them to obtain a better view. The waves were curling in the breeze, and their dark green color showed it to be a body of deep water. For a long time we sat enjoying the view, for we had become fatigued with mountains, and the free expanse of moving waves was very grateful. It was set like a gem in the mountains, which, from our position, seemed to inclose it almost entirely. We en- camped on the shore opposite a very remarkable rock in the lake, which had attracted our atten- tion for many miles. It rose, according to our estimate, 600 feet above the water and, from the point we viewed it, presented a pretty exact out- line of the great pyramid of Cheops. This strik- ing feature suggested a name for the lake, and I called it Pyramid Lake; and though it may be deemed by some a fanciful resemblance, I can undertake to say that the future travelers will find much more striking resemblance between this rock and the pyramids of Egypt than there is between them and the object from which they take their name."
Pyramid Lake, at an altitude of 3,850 feet above sea-level, is the lowest surface within the county. The tops of the highest mountains bordering Pyramid Lake on the west are about 7, 100 feet above the sea, as determined by Perry Powers on his survey of the boundaries of Pyra- mid Lake Indian Reservation in 1887. Pyramid Lake is thirty miles long and twelve miles wide, lies wholly within the confines of the Pyramid Lake Indian Reservation, and is twenty-one miles from Wadsworth by good wagon road. It has considerable depth, and abounds in large trout of excellent flavor. The rock, rising six hundred feet above the surface of the water, and having a pyramid shape, is the home of a large band of wild goats, the hatchery of thousands of seagulls, pelicans and other water fowl; and last, but not least, the sporting place of innumerable rattle- snakes.
The lake receives a flow of pure cold water from the Truckee River, but as there is no visible outlet, the water is slightly brackish, and contains some mineral matter. In 1882 some professional men considered the feasibility of turning the flow of the Truckee into Winnemucca Lake, and thereby allow the water of Pyramid Lake to
evaporate, in order to obtain soda and borax. The water contains about one-fourth of I per cent. borax and I per cent. soda; or, one pound of borax and four pounds of soda to 400 barrels of water. The scheme proved to be an air bubble.
In its setting of rough, ragged and precipitous mountains, whose sides are chased by winding streams from crystal springs, bordered at the base by cliff and crag and cavern of old coral, it is an emerald gem, diamond-encrusted by water- fowl of snow-white plumage, having its beauty enhanced a thousandfold by the picturesque pyr- amidal rock near its center. When the wind blows, the waves rolling to the shore are lashed to foam, and give the roar of the sea. When a storm is on the lake it is unsurpassingly beautiful, and when R. L. Fulton wrote a description of the lake for the San Francisco "Bulletin," some Eastern papers remarked that a demented fool out West had found a prettier, lake than Tahoe. We concur with Mr. Fulton, and his taste is that of others who have visited this sheet of water.
WINNEMUCCA LAKE.
Lying parallel to Pyramid Lake, and a little to the east of it, is Winnemucca Lake, the largest body of water in the State, extending north and south sixty miles and north and south twelve miles. With Pyramid Lake it shares the water of the Truckee River. The surrounding moun- tains are low and regular, yet their geology is interesting, and their sides are used as stock ranges. Winnemucca Lake is the home of the silver trout, a fish not to be excelled the world over for beauty. When taken out of the water he looks like the highest perfection of the silver- smith's art. Winnemucca Lake will one day be a famous resort, as the piscatorial sport to be had here cannot be beaten. Felix McCormack, the host here, took us out on the lake not long ago, and, with trout as bait, caught eighteen two-pound fish in ten minutes with a single line five feet in length. To understand this record the reader must remember that minnow is the regulation bait. McCormack has a fast team, plenty of fishing tackle and a dozen good boats.
To reach. Winnemucca Lake the traveler passes the Indian Reservation and the district of which Prof. W. C. Dovey writes in the first pages of
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this work. During our visit to McCormack's we observed the following: The lake lay before us as a vast mirror. To the southeast and west the blue dome of the sky was relieved by stretches of cirrus clouds-masses of fleecy whiteness, millions of balls of the snowiest cotton, which seemed too dainty, exquisite and frail to be placed at such a distance in the sky. To the north the clouds rolled over and over to the zenith, where they hung, seemingly suspended by some invisible force, and waiting to robe the maidens of our party in a bridal veil. At 11 o'clock the moon appeared above the horizon, and we took to the boats-moonlight on the lake. Fair Luna was so generous with her light that we could see the pelican flying overhead with lazy motion, the graceful gull seeking some undisturbed haven of rest, and the awkward mudhen splashing the water in its haste to evade the intruding boats. Returning to seek our couches, sweet song echoes accompanied us, and dismissed us with their ben- ediction. In the cool morning we turned a bend at the mouth of the river, and the scene which lay before us beggars description. Waterfowl of all kinds, seemingly millions in number, dotted the surface, and castle-like masses of tufa (or coral) towered a hundred feet above us. Here in groups a model "Giants' Causeway," and there, solitary and grim in silent grandeur and sublimity, solemn sentinels of God's most mag- nificent handiwork.
CHANGES IN THE LAKES.
The surface of Pyramid Lake is gradually low- ering, while there is a corresponding rise in the waters of Winnemucca Lake. Stockmen and vaqueros say the change becomes very evident as they ride along the shores and see bluffs where a decade ago there was a gentle slope; and as they look at the pyramid in the center of the lake, it appears to present more volume above the tide level. Twenty-five years ago the rocks where the surf beat and left an undying mark, are to-day a mile from the water. The stakes to which the Indians tied their boats stand in regular line, one below another, and serve as marks of shoreline as the water receded year after year. Finally, at periods of about five years, the waves threw up sand, gravel and shells, which formed a kind of cementithat composes ridges in succession clear
around the lake. Twenty-five years ago Winne- mucca Lake nearly dried up, and became at best an immense lake of soft mud. During the time it was in this condition it was called Mud Lake, and by that name it is best known to-day. Near McCormack's place, at the mouth of the slough, one could easily ford twenty years ago; whereas, now at this point there is a width of 100 feet and a depth of 50 feet. Farther down the shore of this lake Andy Russell and other stockmen built a stone corral, which is now twenty feet below the surface of the water. On the western shore was a piece of land containing about 500 acres of . meadow and salt grass, which is now all under water. The cause of this change of surface is the sawdust and other waste material which is dumped into the Truckee river by the sawmills, and car- ried along to the mouth of the river at the entrance of the lakes, where it is deposited and forms a bar. A quarter of a century ago such a dam formed and cut off the water which went into Winnemucca Lake, and all the water flowed into Pyramid Lake. The result was that Pyramid Lake grew larger and larger, and Winnemucca Lake nearly dried up. The high water of Pyra- mid at last backed far enough to burst the barrier and restore Winnemucca Lake. What happened twenty-five years ago is happening to-day, only the inlet to Pyramid Lake is nearly closed, and it is growing smaller and smaller. If allowed to continue, it will dry up for a time within the next ten years, if the inlet is not cleared by artificial means. The Indians realize this, and are trying to prevent it by building a wing-dam.
INDIAN RESERVATION.
To the north of these lakes lies the Pyramid Lake Indian Reservation, of which Pyramid Lake is a part. It was set apart as a reservation in 1857, and includes the town of Wadsworth and the rich bottom lands of the Truckee from the Big Bend, now Wadsworth, to the mouth of the river, and all of Pyramid Lake. In 1860 Major Dodge was appointed Indian Agent, and he posted notices defining the boundaries and warn- ing all intruders to leave. In 1865, while Dodge was yet Agent, the boundary lines of the reserva- tion were run by Eugene Munroe. The con- cluding act by which this land, comprising 320,- 000 acres, was given to the Piutes, was President
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Grant's executive order in 1874. Finally comes a resurvey of the boundaries of this reservation by Perry Powers in 1887.
On the road from Wadsworth to the reserva- tion there are some scenes which cannot be beaten for wildness and beauty. A point where Hub Parker had a dam constructed when he was In- dian Agent is known as the "Red, White and Blue Rock." Here in the canyon, at a depth of 400 feet from the road, the water above and below the dam is without a ripple, and looks like sheets of silver, while in the center it dashes against the boulders, and is tossed up as foamy spray.
On the farther side, in a little niche, stands a small overshot wheel, which, with its lights and shadows, seems especially fitted there for effect. Rolling away from our feet are the rocks bearing the American colors, and they seem to tell us they mark the abode of liberty. Perhaps five miles farther we come to the avenue where com- mences the reservation proper. A fresh breeze from the lakes fans our face, and stirs the broad-spreading branches of mighty cottonwoods. The ground is covered with a luxuriant growth of high grass, and rustic fences of Indian manufact- ure stretch away in every direction. Further the willows bend from above, and the rippling waters flow around and seem to sigh for the cottonwood giant fallen prone in its embrace, but still beautiful in its symmetry and size. Now we see cultivated fields with fair altalfa crops and young orchards. A stable built of dried willow and cottonwood twigs, shows that the architect is above the aver- age Piute, and later we learn it is Charley Winne- mucca's work. Again, where but a few months before was a tule campoody, there stands a well- built and neat log cabin, and near by a horse corral strong enough to hold any mustang. As we proceed toward the Agency buildings the valley broadens, and for some miles are fields of alfalfa, natural grass, grain, and gardens. Huge cottonwoods rear their heads above the winding river, stock graze in the pastures, the air is moist and salubrious, and the landscape is simply beau- tiful. Next we come to the Agency, where Col- W. D. Gibson has been head chief for the past four years. The surroundings are well kept, and we saunter up to the schoolhouse, where Miss
Taddie Doane has control of some sixty young Piutes. They are progressing, we believe, but you can judge for yourself by looking at their work, which is a part of the Nevada exhibit to the National Educational Association.
Below the Agency is the battle ground of the Piute war of 1860, of which, owing to lack of space, we can only give a curtailed account. The general reasons assigned by the Piutes for this war were the encroachments of the whites upon Indian lands, and the destruction of the pine forests. The first outbreak of the Indians was the burning of Williams' Station, near Fort Churchill, and the killing of five whites. The news of this outrage was brought to the settlement | by James O. Williams, and the whites vowed vengeance. All the scattered settlers were called in, and detachments were organized for the pur- pose of retaliating. The volunteers numbered 105 men, were divided into five squads, and offi- cered as follows: Virginia City (Company 2), Captain Archie McDonald; Virginia City (Com- pany 1), Captain Frank Johnson; Silver City, Captain R. G. Watkins; Carson City, Major W. M. Ormsby; Genoa, Captain T. F. Condon. With Major W. M. Ormsby as commander, the regiment started, and May 9, 1860, encamped at Buckland's Station, Carson River. On the 10th they arrived at Williams' Station, the scene of the massacre they intended to avenge. On the 11th they encamped at the Big Bend, or Lower Cross- ing (now Wadsworth). On the 12th they marched down the Truckee River to the begin- ning of the avenue before mentioned, where the valley widens out, and where is now the principal farming portion of the reservation. This place is a veritable basin, and more than probable was worn away by high water. To the left is a table land, gradually sloping from the base of the sur- rounding foothills to the edge of the basin. To the right is an extensive table land, running ten miles as a sandy flat to the mountains. The reg- iment. if such you will allow us to call it, had en- tered the basin, and marched north one and a half miles, or to where the Agency buildings now stand, when they saw a band of mounted Indians on an elevated point to the right and in front of them. The order was given to charge, and about half the command dashed up the slope,
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only to find that the Indians had disappeared, and another band just out of rifle range strung out in a long line before them. While consider- ing what to do next, the Piutes sprang up from behind the sagebrush on every side and poured in lead and arrows on the whites. The company were stupefied with surprise; their horses, terrified by the noise of the battle and the hideous yells of the Indians, stampeded and could not be con- trolled. That part of the command still in the basin made for the timber, and the frightened animals of the others rushed after them to a point on the river northwest of the Agency buildings. This was a fatal move, as the Indians on the. plateau strung out, flanked the whites on the south, and prevented them from retreating the way they had come, and drove them north, where another band of Indians was in ambush among the cottonwoods. Here the whites found them- selves hemmed in on every side, and to try to escape was to run the gauntlet. It had to be done, however, and they turned their horses to the south. Many were pulled from their horses; others got through, only to be pursued, overtaken and shot down. The pursuit was continued as far as Wadsworth, when night gave its friendly shelter to the remnant, who lost no time in mak- ing their way to Buckland's Station. Thus in disaster ended this first battle fought at Pyramid Lake. Soon the news of the result, with all its horrors, went flashing over the wires, and help came from Nevada City, San Juan, Sacramento and Placerville, the gallant Californians braving the Sierras to add their number to the brave Nevadans who enlisted from Virginia City, Gold Hill, Genoa, Silver City, Dayton and Truckee Meadows,' in all numbering 544, rank and file. On May 24, 1860, the regiment moved from Vir- ginia City, and that night camped below Dayton, where they spent the next day in receiving stores. The march was resumed on the 26th, and the next camp was at Reed's Station. On the 28th, near Williams' Station, they lay down for a few hours' rest. On the 31st they reached Wads- worth, where they were joined by United States troops to the number of 260, making a total force of 804, with Col. Jack Hays as commander of both divisions. From Wadsworth the command moved down the river eight miles and went into
camp, afterward named Fort Storey, in honor of Captain E. T. Storey, of the Virginia Rifles, who was shot near here a few days later, and after whom is named Storey County. On June 2d a detail of 80 men, under Captains Storey and J. B. Van Hazen, was sent out on a scouting expedi- tion, with instructions to retreat to Fort Storey if they saw the enemy, and not to hazard an en- gagement if they could avoid it. The gallant 80 marched until they reached the basin where the former battle was fought. Here they saw the enemy advancing in triangular form, with apex in front, and, obeying instructions, they retreated, the Indians following for several miles. After passing the gulch where the Truckee flows 400 feet below, the detail saw the main force under Col. Hays advancing, so they came to a stand in a small flat, with the Truckee on the east and mountains on the west, the Indians taking posi- tion in the rough gorges and buttes. The volun- teers took the flat, and the regulars scaled the hill, all advancing in a straight line, stretching from the river a mile west, and forcing the In- dians to. retreat before them. A brisk fire was given and returned. From mountain, hill, ravine and gorge the Indians were compelled to retreat, though through the whole afternoon they obsti- nately contested every foot of the ground. When morning dawned on the day following the fight, the Indians had vanished. Captain Storey was shot through the lungs, and died on the field a few days later. Two of his men were killed, making three of the whites, while the Indian loss was probably fitty. This is called the battle of Truckee. On the 4th day of June the march was resumed, the command, with the exception of those left behind with the wounded at Fort Storey, continuing down the Truckee, and taking to the range of hills between Winnemucca and Pyramid Lakes. Here in a rocky fastness the enemy were found, but they fled before the whites, and the Indian troubles virtually ended.
Major F. Dodge had charge of the reservation as Agent; and, as the Indians gradually worked back, they were received with plenty of rations and clothing; and although they threatened to outbreak several times, they did not, and many are taking advantage of school and ranch, and show considerable progression. They raise hay
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and grain in Summer, and catch about $4,000 worth of trout in the fishing season. The follow- ing gentlemen have been Indian Agents, or acted as such: Messrs. Dodge, Wasson, Gregg, Lee, Balcomb, Parker, Bateman, Garvey, Spencer, McMasters, Gibson. The last named, Col. W. D. Gibson, has gained the confidence of the In- dians, made many improvements, done a world of good in school matters, and labored to, and succeeded, in doing more than he was paid for.
Wadsworth, at an elevation of 4,077 feet above the level of the sea, is situated in the southeastern part of the county, where the Central Pacific Railroad crosses the Truckee River. The Big Bend, or Lower Crossing, of the Truckee River is familiar to our' pioneers and to all overland emigrants who came by this route, as being the place where they obtained the cold mountain water, more precious than gold; the fresh river trout beyond price; where their oxen cropped the first green grass for many days; and where wearied body, eyes and soul found relief from the fatigue of the pelting sun and scorching sand of the desert.
It was here that Fremont lett the river to journey south in 1844, and here that the tired party of emigrants guided to water in the same year by the faithful Indian, Truckee, as a reward for a well kept promise, gave his name to the beautiful stream. Here the river turns to the north to find repose in the bosoms of Pyramid and Winnemucca Lakes, and here many a worn- out traveler bent his knees to praise an all merci- tul God for rich gifts.
In 1854 Bill Gregory established a trading post, and he was followed in later years by others, who cut grass and peddled it and water to emmi- grants on the desert. Not only this they scoured the plain in search of stock which had fallen by the wayside overcome by work and left to die. When found they were given grass and water and then driven to Wadsworth where they were fattened and sold again to other emigrants. Hither in 1861 came T. G. Herman, Joseph Fell- nagle, George Alt and James Morrow, to find homes and settle. Tom Herman and Joe Fell- nagle formed a partnership and took up land which now forms part of the Herman ranch. Alt and Morrow took up land adjoining on the south.
and here the four lived together until Alt and Morrow determined to go back to the Truckee Meadows and disposed of their property to Tom and Joe. In 1862 and for some succeeding years Belleville, Grantsville, Columbus, Ellsworth and other places were in their prime, and the roads were dotted with freight teams engaged in tran- sporting merchandise, machinery, lumber etc, at two and one-half cents per pound, to the booming camps. Quite a town sprang up across from the present site of Wadsworth, named Drytown. The hotel man, the blacksmith, the harness-maker, the saloon man, the keepers of feed corrals, the bar- ber, the wagon-maker and the storekeeper, all flourished. Contemporaneous with and succeed- ing 1862, times were lively and money plenty. Seventy-five freight teams, prairie schooners, with crews of teamsters and their swampers, sailed the high seas of the desert. The earliest business men were: John Halloway Tom and Joe, Dan McClaine, Hugh Knox, William Nicholls, E. Olinghouse, William Patterson, Andy Russel, George Frazier, P. McDonald, E. Fowler, D. M. Geiger, John Lee, Lem Savage, James Fergu- son, Dave Ehler, William Donaldson, M. Gilbert, M. Raphael; and as ranchers, Tom and Joe, Hank Miller, John Newman, Will Gates and J. O. Gregory. Many of these came with the Cen- tral Pacific Railroad in 1869. Bill Nicholls, now mine host of the Wadsworth Hotel, established Stockton Station on the desert Nov. 10, 1863, and a well was sunk 295 feet before water was found. The old town of Wadsworth, named after General Wadsworth, was given birth by the Central Pacific Railroad Company in 1869, but Drytown continued to exist and do an immense freighting business with Downieville, Benton, Ione, Silver Peak, Bishop's Creek and Gold Mountain until 1880, at which time the Carson and Colorado Railroad captured the freighting and Drytown naturally dried up and blew into Wads- worth. A ferry-boat crossed the river above be- fore the railroad bridge was built, and another a few miles further up. To the east of Wadsworth is the Great Desert and there is no water until Humboldt, 100 miles distant, is reached. Owing to this fact the Central Pacific, Company con- cluded to establish a station on the river where they could obtain water, and Wadsworth is that
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station. In the old town across the river the company established the headquarters of the Truckee Division, built car and machine shops and a round house. Churchill county found Wadsworth a base of supplies, business men came from other localities, buildings were constructed and a town burst upon the vision. Then followed a two years' contest between Lyon and Washoe Counties for the possession of Wadsworth. The struggle was due to the uncertainty of a boundary line, defined as running along the old emigrant road. The people of Lyon County found a road which they supposed was and claimed to be the "old emigrant road"' and said boundary. Had this claim been allowed it would have left Wadsworth in Lyon County. Washoe county had always exer- cised jurisdiction over the town, and when the Lyon County officials attempted to assess the property and collect taxes, the matter was taken into the Courts. The case was tried twice in Ormsby County without arriving at a decision. It was then taken to Humboldt County, and the trial resulted in favor of Washoe County in May, 1871.
The $4,000 bridge that spans the Truckee River was built by the county in 1879, and the old ferryboat, past its days of usefulness, was taken from the water.
On June 30, 1879, the Engineers' and Me- chanics' Library Association was organized.
On June 13, 1879, No. I passenger train nearly went into the Truckee River, six miles west of town.
Jully 15, 1882, the village was overrun by tramps, and they threatened to sack the town. They became so bold that the railroad men or- ganized an impromptu "601" squad and the tramps were ordered to leave.
One gang stole a handcar and started towards Reno with it. The railroad officials were ap- prised of this, and started in pursuit with the yard engine. The tramps were overhauled, sev- eral shots were exchanged, and one of the num- ber was wounded. The car was recovered, the winged bird brought to Wadsworth, and was afterwards jailed.
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