USA > New York > Monroe County > Rochester > Settlement in the West : sketches of Rochester with incidental notices of western New-York > Part 1
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مصمم
ـين جنسيا
موصى
Gc 974.702 R580 1131812
M. L
GENEALCET COLLECTION
m
ALLEN COUNTY PUBLIC LIBRARY 3 1833 01177 2768 E
Anderson.Se
ROCHESTER IN 1812.
[ Vide p. 250.
" When I saw your place in 1810 without a house, who would have thought that in 1826 it would be the scene of such a change ?" -- De Witt Clinton to Everard Peck.
SETTLEMENT IN THE WEST. GENEALOGY COLLECTION
SKETCHES OF ROCHESTER;
WITH
INCIDENTAL NOTICES OF WESTERN NEW-YORK.
A COLLECTION OF MATTERS
DESIGNED TO ILLUSTRATE THE PROGRESS OF ROCHESTER DURING THE FIRST QUARTER-CENTURY OF ITS EXISTENCE.
INCLUDING A MAP OF THE CITY AND SOME REPRESENTATIONS OF SCENERY, EDIFICES, ETC.
ARRANGED BY HENRY O'REILLY. Henry O'Rielly
" The names of the first settlers are interesting to us chiefly hecause they were the first settlers. There can be little new to offer ; and what can there be interesting to the public in the lives of men whose chief and perhaps sole merit consisted in the due fulfilment of the duties of private life ? We have no affecting tales to relate of them-no perils by flood or field-no privations induced by the crimes of others or their own imprudence. The most that can be said of them is, that they were moral, religious, prudent, quiet people, who, with admirable foresight, made the best advantage of their situation, and who lived in com fort, begat children, and died." Gordon.
ROCHESTER :
PUBLISHED BY WILLIAM ALLING.
1838.
PROGRESS OF ROCHESTER.
"Scarce thrice five suns have roll'd their yearly round Since o'er this spot a dreary forest frown'd ; When none had dared with impious foot intrude On Nature's vast unbroken solitude ;
When its rude beauties were unmark'd by man, And yon dark stream in unknown grandeur ran ; When e'en those deaf'ning falls dash'd all unheard Save by the timid deer and startled bird.
" Behold ! a change which proves e'en fiction true- More springing wonders than Aladdin knew ! How, like a fairy with her magic wand, The soul of ENTERPRISE has changed the land ! Proud domes are rear'd upon the gray wolf's den,
And forest beasts have fled their haunts for men ! On yon proud stream, which with the ocean's tide Joins distant Erie, boats triumphal glide ;
These glittering spires and teeming streets confess
That man-FREE MAN-hath quell'd the wilderness :
Before him forests fell-the desert smiled- And he hath rear'd this CITY OF THE WILD."
(Prizc Ode in 1826, by Frederic Whittlesey.)
[Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1838, by WILLIAM ALLING, in the Clerk's Office of the Southern District of New-York.]
1131812
TO
THE PEOPLE OF ROCHESTER-
THE LABORIOUS ARTISANS AND THE PRACTICAL BUSINESS-MEN- THE FOUNDERS OF THEIR OWN FORTUNES,
ANO THE ARCHITECTS OF A TOWN WHICH HAS ALREADY ATTAINED THE THIRD RANK AMONG THE CITIES OF THE EMPIRE STATE-
THESE SKETCHES OF THE FIRST QUARTER-CENTURY OF ROCHESTER
are Dedicated
BY AN INDIVIDUAL WHO CONSIDERS THE CAREER OF THAT CITY AS ONE OF THE STRONGEST ILLUSTRATIONS OF
THE INTELLIGENT ENTERPRISE OF THE AMERICAN CHARACTER.
NOTE.
THE origin of this volume may be briefly mentioned bere. The author, having watched with much interest the progress of Rochester during a period wherein the importance of the place has fully quadrupled, cheerfully complied with a request from the corporation by publishing some statistical information concerning "Rochester at the close of 1836," in a manner resembling some of his newspaper statements wbich were collected and published in pamphlet form by some citizens in 1835. The cor- diality with which the people of Rochester countenanced those scribblings imboldened the writer to propose the present publication, and induces him now to believe that his fellow-citizens will look leniently upon whatever defects or errors may be discovered in this effort to preserve memorials of the founders of Rochester while tracing the progress of the city to its present flourishing condition.
Some matters are included in this volume which may not be considered strictly relevant to the main purpose ; but perhaps an excuse for their introduction here may be found in the circumstance that many of the facts concerning the settlement of West- ern New-York are not readily accessible to the public, and are not as fully known as they deserve to be, and as the relations of Rochester with the surrounding country require that they should be, among our citizens.
The undersigned has aimed to collect the testimony of early settlers and others particularly conversant with certain subjects ; and has in several cases published re- marks from such sources in preference to those prepared by himself. The obligationa under which he is laid by contributions from those and other sources are acknowl- edged in connexion with the respective subjects.
Less time and means might have sufficed for preparing a volume less local in char- acter, and therefore perhaps fitted for more general circulation, even though such vol- ume had embraced no larger share of facts respecting the settlement of Western New-York than are here incidentally imbodied. But the light in which I view the City of Rochester, as an exemplification of the energies of an intelligent people under liberal institutions, and the good-will with which these and former efforts bave been seconded by the citizens, have encouraged me in a task wherein their approbation will be deemed no inconsiderable reward.
May 1, 1838.
HENRY O'REILLY.
ERRATA.
The following note should have accompanied the meteorological tables included in the article respecting " Climate, Soil, and Productions," p. 51-6. As it is important that the circumstances under which the observations were made should be known, the attention of the reader is asked particularly to this explanation from Dr. Marsh :- "Our thermometer hangs upon the south casement of a west window in the second atory ; it faces the north, and has a free western and northern exposure. The regis- ters are made at 10 o'clock A.M. and P.M. We have ascertained, by comparisona with others in the city, that our thermometer is not influenced by the direct or re- flected sun's rays at the time of observation. The barometer (not the wheel) is one of Donegani's, London, and is suspended in an office in the second story, fourteen feet above the pavement. The registers are made as above mentioned, after slightly agitating and then adjusting it to a perpendicular."
In the journal of De Witt Clinton, p. 246, the rate of freight between Utica and Ca- nandaigua in 1810 should read $2 50 per cwt., not $25 per ton.
In page 295, the year in which the Monroe Sabbath-school Union was formed should read 1826 instead of 1825. The year was correctly printed on the previous page, but the name should read Sabbath-school instead of Sunday-school, as there given.
An error occurred in the folios after the 336th page. The insertion of a * before the folio will notify the reader of the fact. There are about sixty pages in the work more than appears at first sight-making about 480 instead of 416, the number on the last page-without counting the engravings.
The firm of L. B. Swan & Co., is omitted in the list of druggists, p. * 373.
The tragical events referred to by a * in page 362 of the appendix are noticed on page *381, in the notice of the first cattle brought upon the Genesee flats.
In page 344, appendix, for Mahaknase, read Mahakuas (Mohawks).
There are some other errors, typographical and otherwise, which the reader will probably correct in passing. Any errors of importance may be rectified perhaps in a future publication respecting the Pioneers and Settlement of Western New-York.
INDEX OF THIS VOLUME.
The CITY OF ROCHESTER ; brief sketch of its rise, progress, and present condi- tion, pages 23-36.
CLIMATE, SOIL, AND PRODUCTIONS of the Genesee Valley, of which Rochester may be termed the capital, 37 ; peculiarities of the soil, 37; Flats of the Genesee, 38; climate and prevalent winds, 39; influence of the lakes on the temperature; temperature of Rochester and the Genesee Valley compared with that of other sec- tions, 41 ; adaptation of soil and climate to the production of wheat, 42 ; diversity of soil in the upper and lower sections of Genesee Valley, and elsewhere in Western New-York, 43; falls of the Genesee at Nunda or Portageville, ib. ; adaptation of soil and climate to the production of fruits and vegetables, ib. ; the Rochester fruit- market, ib. ; advantages of the Genesee Valley for the culture of the mulberry for silk and of the beet for sugar, 44 ; indications which the forest-trees afford of the geological characteristics of the county, 45 ; the granary of America and the garden of the coun- try, ib. ; further remarks on the influence exerted by the lakes on the climate, &c., ib. ; periods remarkable for warmth or coolness, 46; observations of Volney and Dwight on the climate of the lake country, 47 ; tables showing the temperature of Lake On- tario at different periods of the season, 48; remarks of Mr. M'Auslan and Professor Dewey on the subject, 49; thermometrical tables for seven years, 51 ; barometrical tables for the same period, 54; quantities of rain and snow which fell in each month for seven years, 55; difference in temperature between Rochester, and Utica, and Albany, 56; atmospheric phenomena produced by the refraction of sunlight from the great lakes, 56; beauty of autunmal sunsets, &c., 57; cuts representing the refrac- tion of rays from the lakes, 60, 61, 62; supposed peculiarities of the atmosphere at certain periods for producing such appearances, 63.
GEOLOGY OF ROCHESTER AND ITS VICINITY :
Remarkable geological features, 64; Professor Dewey's remarks, 65 ; the ravine cut by the Genesee furnishing fine views of the strata, 66; red sandstone, saliferous rock, and salt springs, 66; height of the coal formation at Pittsburg above the canal at Rochester and above Lake Ontario, &c., 67; dip of the strata, fucoidea and vegetable remains, gray sandstone, &c., 67 ; appearances of the red sandstone, and suggestion of Professor Hall respecting its apparent rise, 68; mountain lime- stone, containing encrinites, trilobites, &c., 68; Professor Eaton's classifications, 69; argillaceous slate, marly slate, petrifactions, & c., 69; argillaceous iron ore, ifs extent and value, 70; ferriferous sandrock, chalcedony, carnelian, cacholong, copper, petrifactions, &c., 71; alternations of slate, sandrock, and limestone, 72; pleasing aspect of the strata in the banks of the Genesee, 72; calciferous slate, or second graywacke, 72; large quantity and variety of petrifactions, 72; green argillite, trilobites, asaphus caudatus, &c., 73; height of the Falis of Niagara and Genesee, 73; discovery in excavating the bed of the Genesee for the new aqueduct, polished rocks, mineral springs, vegetable remains, 74; flowers on the banks, calcareous tufa, petrified moss, 75 ; geodiferous limerock, its extent and value, 75; representa- tion of a section of the rocks for four and a half miles on Genesee River, 77; dilu- vium, 77; erratic groupe, evidences of a mighty rush of water, boulders, remnants of the mastodon found in Perrinton and Rochester, 78; deposites of sand for mortar, glass, and brick making, with clay, 79; further evidences of a flood, polished rocks, &c., 79; remark of Professor Hall on the extent of the polished rocks, 80; alluvium, 80; the Ridge Road, evidences of its formation by the action of Lake Ontario, its wonderful peculiarities, &c., 81 : wood and vegetable matter found in the ridge, the supposed submersion of Western New-York, &c., 82; remarks on Lake Ontario connected with the ridge, 83; comparison with the ocean-dikes of Holland, 84 ;. transportation of boulders, 86; retrocession of the Falls of the Genesee, 87; car- bonate of soda, formation of common salt. &c., 88; mineral springs, the Monroe and Longmoor Springs, 88; elevations of different points and waters as compared with objects in and around Rochester, 89.
MEDICAL TOPOGRAPHY :
Influence exerted on health hy the improvement of the country, 90; remarks of Dr .. Coventry on the diseases of the Genesee country from 1792 till 1796, 92; remarks of Dr. Ludlow on the diseases between 1801 and 1824, 93 ; lake or Genesee fevers, no- tices of 1802-3-4, 94 ; diseases and temperature of 1805-6-7, 95 ; do. of 1808-9-10, 96 ; medical peculiarities of 1811-12-13, 97; destructive disease in 1814, and remarks
2*
xviii
INDEX.
on temperature and health in 1815-16-17-18, 98 ; peculiarities of 1819-20-21-22-23, with remarks on goitre and consumption, 99; remarks of President Dwight on the health of the Genesee country in 1804, &c., 100; exemption of the country at that time from pulmonary complaints, 101 ; contrast presented to the past by the pres- ent state of health in Rochester, &c., 102; increase of consumption, but improve- ment of health in other respects, 103; report of deaths in Rochester in 1837, and comparsion with mortality in other cities, 104.
THE LANDS OF THE SIX NATIONS ; which included the City of Rochester : No- tices of treaties and laws concerning the extinction of the Indian title, 105 ; first treaty between the United States and the Six Nations, 106; Lafayette and Red Jacket, 107; first land acquired by the State of New- York from the Indians, [07; arrangements between New-York, Massachusetts, Pennsylvania, and the general government respecting the lands, 108; lands of the Onondagas, 109; lands of the Oneidas and Cayugas, 110; the United States and the Six Nations, 111; New- York and the Oneidas, Onondagas, and Cayugas, 112; treaty of Canandaigua in 1794, 112; acknowledged boundaries of the Seneca nation, 113; guarantee and presents from the United States to the Senecas, 114; Colonel Pickering and Red Jacket, Seneca lands, reservations, &c., 115; the Mohawks, 116; the Oneidas, the Brother- town Indians, rights of the Indians, disposal of state lands, 117; New-Stockbridge and Seneca lands, 118; the Senecas, the Oneidas, 119; the Cayugas, the Christian and Pagan Oneidas, protection of the Indians, 120; Seneca lands, relief of Indians, lands of the Onondagas, 121 ; Indians of this state in 1819, efforts of the government for their removal, 122; last treaty with the remnants of the Six Nations for the pur- chase of their lands preparatory to their removal westward, 123 ; lands bought from and assigned to the Indians, 124; note on the gratitude of the United States to the few Oneidag, &c., who were friendly in the revolutionary war, 125; a new state projected, 125 ; the lessees, the Indians, and the Legislature, 126; Phelps and Gor- ham, General Mathews, &c., 127; lessee contracts, number one, 128-number two, 129; treaty between Phelps and Gorham and the Six Nations, 130; enterprise of Phelps and his associates, 131; incidents of an Indian treaty beside Canandaigua Lake, 132; Red Jacket, Farmer's Brother, &c., 133; surveys and land contracts ' devised by Phelps, the " Article," &c., 134; controversy between New-York, Con- necticut, and Pennsylvania respecting lands, 135; laws against Connecticut claim- ants, 136; suits of Connecticut against New-York, 136; proceedings of New-York and of Congress respecting the Connecticut claims, 137 ; final arrangements of diffi- culties respecting lands, 138 ; annuities payable to Indians by New-York, 138.
SUBDIVISIONS OF WESTERN NEW-YORK, containing some particulars of the principal tracts, &c.
The Holland Purchase, deduction of title, &c., 140; boundaries of the lands to which the pre-emptive right was ceded to Massachusetts by New-York, 141 ; particulars of sale by Massachusetts to Phelps and Gorham, 142 ; sales of lands to Robert Morris, the great financier of the American revolution, 143; proceedings of Massachusetts Legislature, 144 ; sale of the reserved " sixtieth parts," 144; description of the first and second tracts of the Holland Purchase, 145; third and fourth tracts of said pur- chase, 146 ; the Dutch proprietors, and judgments against Robert Morris, 147 ; sale of Morris's lands by Sheriff Mather of Ontario, arrangements by the Holland Com- pany, 148; Gouverneur Morris, Aaron Burr, Alexander Hamilton, and others con- cerned in making arrangements, 149; conveyance of lands to Thomas L. Ogden, &c., the million-acre, 800,000-acre and 300,000-acre tracts, 150.
The Pulteney Estate, 150; Captain Williamson and Maude the English traveller, 151; settlements in Western New-York, and comparative value of markets for produce, Baltimore versus New-York, 153; settlements of Bath, Geneva, &c., 153; Canandaigua in 1792 and 1800, 154; settlements made near Genesee River, at Cal- edonia, Scotsville, Big-Spring, &c., through the influence of Captain Williamson, and sale of the " Ilundred-acre Tract" with the Allen mill to Rochester, Fitzhugh, and Carroll, 155.
The Military Tract-set apart for rewarding revolutionary soldiers, 156 ; unsuccess- ful efforts of the state to extinguish the Indian title to the lands thus designated, and the designation of another Military Tract, 157; successful arrangement with the Indians, and division of the lands among the soldiers, 158 ; sales of patents for lands, cheaply and sometimes fraudulently, and commissioners appointed to settle con- ficting claims, General Mathews being one of the board, 159; value of the lands, patents for 600 acres of which were often sold for $8! 160.
The Triangle Tract, the millyard, Aug. Porter, Le Roy, Bayard, and M'Evers, 160. The Hundred Thousand-acre Tract, owned partly by Craigie, Watson, and Green- leaf, by De Witt Clinton, Sir Wm. l'ulteney, the State of Connecticut, &c., 161. Boundaries alluded to-Property Line, Pre-emption Line, Pennsylvania Line, 162; lines run by Maxwell and Jenkins, errors produced by the compass and otherwise, the struggle for possession of Geneva, &c., 163; errors in Pre-emption Line cor-
xix
INDEX.
rected by Augustus Porter and Joseph Ellicott, and the Pennsylvania Line run by James Clinton, Simeon De Witt, Andrew Ellicott, &c., 164.
Western New-York as it was and is-Albany county embracing all New-York north and west of Ulster and Dutchess, Vermont erected into a state from parts thereof, 165; erection and subdivision of Ontario county, which formerly included all west of Seneca Lake, 166 ; dates of the creation of counties from the tract which origin- ally constituted Albany county, 167 ; agents for the principal tracts into which the land west of Seneca Lake was divided, 168.
PROGRESS OF IMPROVEMENT-from the Hudson westward to the Genesee and Niagara.
The progress of settlement, indicated by highways, canals, and railroads, 168; roads laid out in 1792 and 1794, 170 ; roads in 1798-9, when Cayuga bridge was built, 171 ; roads in 1800-1, 172; roads in 1801 and 1810, 173; roads ordered between Genesee River and Lewiston and Buffalo in 1810 and 1812, 174 ; a semi-weekly stage run between Canandaigua and Rochester in 1815, private mails authorized to be run, and the expediency considered of establishing a postroute in 1816 between Canan- daigua and Lewiston, by way of the village ot Rochester, 175.
The Canal System-its origin and progress, 175; remarkable features of Western New-York, 176; Ontario route to the lakes, river navigation, &c., 177 ; exploring tour and views of General Washington, his services in the cause of internal improve- ment, 178 ; early efforts of various states, 181 ; services of Christopher Colles, who first proposed to the New-York Legislature the subject of internal improvement after the Revolution, 182 ; Colonel Robert Troup, General Schuyler, Dr. Hosack, &c., 184; Gov. George Clinton, Elkanah Watson, Lock Navigation Companies, 186 ; projected canal around Niagara Falls, 187; Colden on the Ontario route, 188 ; services of Gouv- erneur Morris, and his prediction of ships sailing from London to Lake Erie, 189 ; services of Jesse Hawley, who wrote the first essays that proposed the Erie Canal on an inclined plane from Niagara River to the vicinity of Utica, 190; predictions of the effect of the canal on New-York and other cities, 191 ; action of Congress and report of Albert Gallatin on the policy of improvement recommended by President Jeffer- son, 192 ; services of Joshua Forman, who proposed the first legislative measure for exploring the route of the Erie Canal, 192 ; ridicule cast on the proposition, 193; in- structions of Surveyor-General De Witt to the Surveyor Geddes, 193-4 ; services of Joseph Ellicott, and his letters to the surveyor-general urging the canal policy, 195; Ellicott's remarks on the route between Lake Erie and Genesee River, 196 ; singular theory respecting the former course of Niagara and Genesee Rivers, &c., 197; pe- culiarities of the Tonnewanta Valley, 198; Ellicott's proposal ot a route for the Erie Canal, testimony of Micah Brooks respecting the efforts of Ellicott, 199; applications made to Gov. Tompkins, De Witt Clinton, and others, to procure their countenance for the canal policy in 1809, 200; examinations of James Geddes on the route contem- plated for the Erie Canal by Hawley, Ellicott, and Forman, 201; attention paid by Geddes to the route suggested by Ellicott west of Genesee River, 202 ; report of Ged- des to the legislature in 1809, and his own remarks thereon in 1822, 203 ; services of Thomas Eddy, Jonas Platt, Gouverneur Morris, Stephen Van Rensselaer, De Witt Clinton, William North, and Peter B. Porter, 204 ; remarks on the first board of Canal Commissioners, 205; zeal manifested in 1810 and in after years by De Witt Clinton, 206 ; Robert R. Livingston and Robert Fulton added to the Canal Board, and excel- lent character of Thomas Eddy, 206; Jefferson, Gallatin, and Madison, 207; course of various States and the general government in reference to the proposed Erie Canal, 208 ; second report of the Canal Board, and effects of the war in retarding the canal enterprise, 209; efforts of Eddy, Platt, and Clinton after the war, the New- York Memorial, &c., 210; important proceedings of the Western Convention at Canandaigua in 1817, 211 ; services of Myron Holley, Gideon Granger, Jolin Greig, N. Rochester, John C. Nicholas, N. W. Howell, Robert Troup, &c., 212; Governor Tompkins urged the canal policy, the legislature partially sanctioned it, and the Canal Board organized, 213; memorial for aid from Congress, drawn by De Witt Clinton and presented by Micah Brooks, 214 : important legislation on the canal question, 214 ; final establishment of the canal policy, 215; services of Martin Van Buren, in concurrence with De Witt Clinton, in establishing that policy, 216-17; Samuel Young and Myron Holley commence the middle section of the Erie Canal in the summer of 1817, 218; note on the influence produced by Jefferson's recom- mendations in favour of internal improvement, 218 ; further efforts of Van uren with Colonel Young in sustenance of the canal policy, and a letter from Myron Holley, exhibiting the difficulties which had to be encountered in extending the Erie Canal westward of Seneca River, 219; proceedings in letting contracts in 1819, 220; triumphant result in 1820, 221 ; surveys for the canal west of Genesee River, 222; speed with which the whole line of the Erie Canal was completed, 223 ; cere- monies at Buffalo and Rochester on the completion of the canal, 224-5 ; names of per- sons prominent in constructing the canals, 226 ; rate of transportation, enlargement of the canal, &c., 227-8-9-30; proceedings at Rochester, Western Convention to urge
XX
INDEX.
the speedy enlargement, 231-5; extension of the canal policy, list of canals con- structed, 236-7; Genesee Valley Canal, 238; the two great railroad lines from east to west, 239-40 ; amount of the Internal Improvements of the State of New-York, 241; the prosperity of which the growth of Rochester is a striking evidence, 242.
STATISTICS OF ROCHESTER .- condition of things prior to the incorporation of Rochester as a village in 1817, 244-5; tour of De Witt Clinton in 1810, 245-6; the first public work where Rochester now stands, and the first white person born hereabout, 247 ; character given of the Rochester tract in the legislature, 248; ac- cidents in crossing the river before a bridge was built, Indians, wild beasts, &c., 249 : the hearfight at Rochester, 250; first allotment and settlement, 251-2; effects of the last war with Great Britain in retarding the progress of Rochester, 253-4; relief for the sufferers granted by the legislature and by the city of New-York, 255; movements of the British fleet threatening Rochester, 256; the close of the war, and its effects ; the village of Rochesterville incorporated in 1817, 258; corporation of Rochester, village officers in each year from 1817 to 1834, 259 ; first election un- der the city charter in 1834, 260; city officers from 1834 to 1838, 261-2; the mayors of Rochester, 203-4-5-6-7-8-9-70.
Religious and Social Institutions-erroneous impressions abroad, 271-2; character of new settlements, 273 ; the voluntary principle happily illustrated in Rochester, 274 ; the last sacrifice of the Senecas, 275-6; the churches of Rochester-First Presbyterian Church, 277-8; St. Luke's Episcopal Church, 279; the Friends, the First Baptist Church, &c., 281-2; First Methodist Episcopal Church, 283; Second Methodist Church, St. Patrick's Catholic Church, 284; Brick or Second Presbyte- rian Church, Third Presbyterian Church, 285; Grace or St. Paul's Church, 286; Reformed Presbyterian, Evangelical Lutheran, and Second Baptist Churches, 287; Zion Church, Freewill Baptist, Universalist, German Catholic, Free Bethel, and Free Congregational Churches, 288; African M. E. Church, church architecture, &c., 289; tabular statements of churches, 290; do. of Sabbath-schools, 29].
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