USA > New York > Erie County > Buffalo > An authentic and comprehensive history of Buffalo : with some account of its early inhabitants, both savage and civilized ; comprising historic notices of the Six Nations or Iroquois Indians, including a sketch of the life of Sir William Johnson, and of other prominent white men, long resident among the Senecas ; arranged in chronologial order > Part 10
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Col. Asa Ransom was for many years a very active, enterprising and influential citizen. He was sheriff of the county before the division of Niagara, and died in 1837, aged seventy years, universally respected, leaving a large family of children.
He had two brothers who accompanied, or soon fol-
*History of the Holland Purchase, page 448.
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THE RANSOM FAMILY-LETTER OF MR. PEACOCK.
lowed him into this region. Elias Ransom, built a frame house about seven miles east of Buffalo on the Batavia road, about 1800, probably the first frame building west. of Batavia ; it is said he built the first frame barn, and set out the first orchard, upon the Holland Purchase. He subsequently came to reside in Buffalo. His de- scendants are also numerous. He died in this city.
His daughter married Samuel Street, Esq., of the firm of Clark & Street, at Niagara Falls, Canada West, in 1811.
Amasa Ransom, another brother, settled in Buffalo at a later period. He resided upon Seneca street, East of Ellicott street. He had a large family of children, some of whom still survive. Mr. A. R. Ransom, of this city, is a son.
Wm. Robbins had established himself as a black- smith in Buffalo, as early as 1798. His name also ap- pears as the purchaser of a lot in New Amsterdam, with others, in 1804. According to the statement of David Mather, he had a blacksmith-shop on the west side of Main street, in 1806.
The venerable Wm. Peacock, of Mayville, now living, in a recent letter to the author, says he passed through Buffalo on horse-back, on his way to Chatauque, in 1799-
"The Indian path passed down to Buffalo Creek about the middle of Main street, to the Terrace, on which was erected a log cabin, or house, covered with bark, and occupied by Johnson, a descendent of Sir Wm. Johnson.
" A little above where the Liberty Pole now stands, and on the bank of Little Buffalo Creek, now part of the Erie Canal, there was erected a log cabin, about twelve
138
HISTORY OF BUFFALO.
feet square, covered with bark, and standing about in the centre of Main street. It was occupied by a Mr. Palmer, a young man, and was his store-house, where he vended his small stock of Indian goods.
"In passing down along the Indian path, (now Main street) to the Terrace, the land was covered with a very thick underbrush, small timber, and some large old oak trees; and the underbrush and small timber so over- shadowed the path that, when our saddle-bags touched a bush, we would be completely drenched with rain after a shower.
"There was a little cleared spot on the Terrace bank on which is now erected the Western IIotel. That little spot was covered with a green sward, on which the Indi- ans, on a fine day, would lie and look off from the high Terrace upon Lake Erie; and I must say that, to me, it it was one of the most beautiful views I ever put my eyes upon. Coming out of the woods, it burst on my vision the large and beautiful sheet of pure water, Lake Erie ; and there I offered up my prayers to God, the creator of all things, and to that Providence which guarded and protected me, young as I was-being then only nineteen years of age.
" It made an impression on me that will always re- main, with most devout and religious remembrance."
The arrival of the Holland Land Company's surveyors at Buffalo Creek was in the fall of 1798. The outfit of the party, so far as related to the scientific instruments required by the surveyors, was obtained from the firm of Rittenhouse & Potts, of Philadelphia-the celebrated David Rittenhouse being the senior partner of the firm at that time.
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HOLLAND LAND CO.'S SURVEYORS-A QUARREL.
Everything was of the best quality. Ax-men, chain- men, pack-horses, provisions, &c., &c., were to be pro- cured in Ontario county ; many of them were purchased at Canandaigua.
The employees were numerous, and were distributed over the territory to be surveyed, from Genesee to Cha- tauqua. Those designated for Buffalo were Messrs. Pease, Smedley and Eggleston.
Mr. Pease was the brother-in-law of Mr. Gideon Granger, Postmaster-General under Mr. Jefferson. In a letter of Mr. Eggleston to Mr. Ellicott, dated Buffalo Creek, June 27th, 1798, he says :
" The goods have arrived, and the family in the house on the hill are about to move out, to make room for the surveyors."
Among the surveyors employed by Mr. Ellicott were two Frenchmen - Messrs. Haudecour and Autrechy. The former of these gentlemen, though not of the party stationed at Buffalo Creek, was on a visit here on their first arrival, in 1798 ; and the following is Mr. Eggle- ston's letter to Mr. Ellicott, reporting a collision between himself and Mons. Haudecour :
" BUFFALO CREEK, Nov. 22, 1798.
" JOSEPH ELLICOTT, EsQ. :
" Yesterday, the 20th, about noon, Mr. Brown and myself walked out and staid a little longer than common dinner time. When we came back, we found that Hau- decour had been swearing to (at) the cook for not setting the table before we returned. I then came into the office, took up my pen, and began to write an order. Handecour then began with me-he being a little vexed,
140
HISTORY OF BUFFALO.
on account of my having sent on his mattrass by the wagon, and other little disputes-and at the time of my writing, he put me out with his talking. I told him to go to -- , and not to be bothering me. With this he gave me a slap on the side of my face, and I turned the other side to him. He struck it a full stroke with his fist ; I then perceived that he was in earnest. I caught up the first thing I could see, which happened to be a long walking stick. I retreated back so that I could get a good chance, and I let slip, which hit him on the head with the but end. He came up to me again ; by that time I was fast in the corner of the office, without any kind of weapon to defend myself with, for Mr. Peas had taken the stick from me, and was trying to part us- While the rascal was kicking me with all his might into my body, Mr. Brown stepped up and we were soon parted. It happened very well for Haudecour, that none of our men were in the house at the time that the affray happened. This he was well apprised of, for before he offered to strike me, he looked into the kitchen to see if any of them were there. He afterwards paid for it. The business soon got wind, and the hands that were at work in the neighborhood, came in. The old fellow was soon hustled out of the house, and he marched over to Palmer's. There was not one in the party that did not want to get the first stroke at him. I told them not to strike him, but let him go about his business. The let- ters you gave me for him when you went from here, I never have copied, on account of his coming in so quick after you went out. When he saw the letter lying on the table, he took it up and has since detained, though I have often asked him for it, in hearing of Mr. Pease, and he
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FIRST LAND OWNER IN BUFFALO.
has as often promised me that he would let me have it, bye and bye; but God knows he has done nothing since he came from Schlosser, only wasting paper. He says he will give you the letter when he gets to your quarters. Mr. Brown was witness to the business.
"I am, sir, with the greatest respect, "Your obedient servant,
" GEORGE EGLESTON."
Haudecour did not remain long in the employment of the Holland Land Company. Indeed, it would appear that he and his associate, Mons. Autrechy, were engaged at Schlosser and the Falls, making surveys and taking levels for ascertaining the practicability of a canal around the Falls. It is to this that Mr. Maud probably alludes in the quotation already made from his journal.
William Johnston, may be considered the first land owner in Buffalo. He had been employed in the British service, in what was termed the "Indian Department," from the first breaking out of the Revolutionary War. Upon the final surrender of Fort Niagara to the Ameri- cans, in 1794, and consequent extinguishment of British rule over the Indians, instead of withdrawing with the rest of the British officers, he chose to remain with the Indians, with whom he had become identified by the strong- est of ties known to our nature. He was in fact the lead- ing man at Buffalo Creek, at the time of the survey and settlement of Buffalo. He was respected by the early white inhabitants, as well as by the Indians, and died in 1807, at the age of about sixty-five years. His son John, or Jack, as he was familiarly called, survived him and inherited his property here, and incumbered it by a
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HISTORY OF BUFFALO.
mortgage to Jasper Parrish, as agent and trustee for the Cayuga Nation. It was advertised and sold under the mortgage in 1811. John Johnston married Ruth Barker, the daughter of Judge Zenas Barker, in 1808 or 9; he lived but a few years after, and died leaving no children willing his property to his wife, who married Mr. Elisha Foster in 1811. John Johnston had much pains taken with his education, pursuing his studies at Yale College. He was a young man of fine acquirements and address, and after his return from school was employed by Capt. Pratt, in his store on Exchange, or Crow street, and at the time of his marriage with Miss Barker was consid- ered one of the most accomplished young men in the place.
As no surveys had yet been made of the village, no lands were offered for sale at Buffalo Creek, and as yet there was no wagon road to this locality.
Immediately after the close of the Revolutionary War a brisk emigration to Canada, from several of the States, particularly from Pennsylvania, took place. The route taken by most of the emigrants was Sullivan's old route to the Genesee, and thence to Lewiston, though soon after 1790, a road was opened to the crossing at Black Rock. The road from Batavia was upon the high ground keeping nearly the same course as the old stage road, turning to the right on the hill at York street. The fine forest shade trees now upon that street, are the bushes that grew in the corners of the fence around the farm lots, upon the sides of the old road which was narrower than the present street. That road to Black Rock Ferry was travelled long before our present Main street was opened or improved. This road to the Ferry followed
143
DOCTOR CYRENEUS CHAPIN.
the ridge, and passed near where the Catholic Church now stands, on York street, and directly over the ground occupied by the Reservoir of the Buffalo Water Works Company, and to the river, down a dug way just above the buildings of the Niagara Street Railroad Company, where the Ferry was. Fort Erie was built in 1764, and was the center and only place of business or trade on either side of the river, in this vicinity, until after 1800.
The Indians, from their first settlement at Buffalo Creek and the first white settlers also, drew most of their supplies from Fort Erie. The communication was prin- cipally from the mouth of Buffalo Creek, across the lake or river, above the rapids, to the Fort.
Almost the entire western shore of the Niagara, from Lake Erie to Lake Ontario, was settled and cultivated,. while the forest remained almost entirely unbroken upon the eastern side, except at the carrying place. The road from Buffalo Creek to Black Rock, was upon the beach of the lake, until after the war of 1812.
The survey of the village of Buffalo, (or New Amster- dam, as it was called by the Holland Land Company ), was completed in 1803.
Doctor Cyreneus Chapin, visited Buffalo in 1801 and had some negotiations with Mr. Ellicott, in regard to pur- chasing a lot in Buffalo, or New Amsterdam as it was decided to call the embryo City. After his return to the East, he addressed a letter to Mr. Ellicott, dated at Sangersfield, Oneida county, saying that himself and friends would buy a township of land at the mouth of Buffalo Creek, and adds : "Forty respectable citizens that are men of good property have signed articles of agreement to take a township if it can be purchased, and
144
HISTORY OF BUFFALO.
will pay the ten per cent. when we receive the article." The lands not having been surveyed, the proposition was of course not entertained.
It is likely that Mr. John Crow, who removed from Whitestown, in Oneida County to Fort Erie, and thence to Buffalo in 1801-2, was one of the parties to this agree- ment. Mr. Crow occupied a house on Inner Lot No. 1, near the corner of Washington and Crow streets, west side of Washington, and south side of Crow. The house which was of logs, was said to have been built by John- ston. Crow built an addition of frame work, hence it was said, the house was a part log, and a part frame house. The street in front of Crow's house extended from Main to Washington only, as Johnston's forty-acre lot extended from Seneca street to the Little Buffalo Creek, and no streets were laid out through it in the original survey of New Amsterdam.
The street continued to bear the name of "Crow Street," until modern refinement discovered that "Crow " was a vulgar name, in as much as crows were vulgar, filthy birds, and at the suggestion of a gentlemen now living in the city, the name was changed to "Exchange Street,"-a very poor exchange, indeed.
Zerah Phelps, the brother-in-law of Mr. Crow, became the purchaser of Inner Lot, No. 1, in June, 1804. Mr. Phelps was probably another of Doctor Chapin's asso- ciates, but failing in the negotiation for the lands at the mouth of Buffalo Creek, he became the purchaser of a large tract in Genesee county, near Batavia.
John Crow remained in Buffalo until 1806, when he removed to the town of Hamburgh, near the Eighteen Mile Creek. From there he removed to Western Penn-
145
MR. JOHN CROW-MR. HENRY CHAPIN.
sylvania, in 1817. In 1805, John Crow purchased Farm Lot, No. 37, which he improved and cultivated. He had a family of ten children-six girls and four boys-two only of whom are now living. John Crow died in Penn- sylvania, near Waterford, in 1830.
It appears from the journal of Mr. Ellicott, that Mr. Henry Chapin was in Buffalo, prior to 1801. The records do not show that he became the purchaser of any lands, but a letter which he wrote to Mr. Ellicott, in March, 1801, shows that he desired to cultivate a lot on the south side of Seneca street, for the purpose of raising garden vegetables. The ground asked for, appears to have been on Wm. Johnston's lot, and the request was, of course, not within the province of Mr. Ellicott to grant.
10
CHAPTER VIII.
Mr. Joseph Ellicott arrived at Buffalo Creek (or New Amsterdam, as he called it) in January, 1801, and en- tered upon the duties of his office as agent of the Hol- land Land Company. The first entry in his journal is dated New Amsterdam, January 2d, 1801 :
"Friday-In the morning, two Germans, from Mary- land, now residenters of Canada, called at my office, (probably Johnson's or Middaugh's old dwelling) and in- quired for lands. Were informed of the price and terms of sale. Said they would call when the snow was off the ground, and try to agree for some lotts. Both mechan- icks ; make screw augers, &c., &c.
" Monday, Jan. 5th .- * * In the evening, rode out on a sleigh with Mr. H. Chapin. He overset, and I unfor- tunately fell with my side on a sharp stump, and much bruised and injured my ribbs.
"Tuesday, Jan. 6th .- Mr. James Stevens left here this morning to forward our baggage from Canandarque, to Mr. Ransom's, at Ransomville, in the Twelfth Town- ship, Sixth Range.
" Jan. 11th, Sunday .- * This day, Rev. Mr. Holmes, an Ana-Baptist preacher and missionary among the Indians, preached for the inhabitants of New Am- sterdam. His sermons were well adapted to the situa-
147
LAND AGENCY-MR. ELLICOTT'S JOURNAL.
tion of the capacities of the people he preached to. Ap_ pears to be a good man-worthy of the charge entrusted to his care.
" Tuesday, Jan. 20th .- Some applications for land at Buffalo Creek, principally for town lots. Mr. Ransom returned from Queenstown with a box of glass.
" Jan. 21st .- Removed from Buffalo Creek to Ran- somville.
"Jan. 22d .- Arranging and fitting up rooms for an office.
" Ransomville, Sunday, Jan. 25th, 1801 .- Removed our stores from the Twelve Mile Creek to this place.
"Jan. 31st .- Fitting up shelves for the books-articles of agreement. No applications for lands. A travelling merchant arrived here and lodged all night. He was from Hartford, Connecticut.
"Sunday, Feb. 1st, 1801 .- * * Went to view Mr. Ransom's mill seat ; great fall there.
"Tuesday, Feb. 11 .- Received a letter from Mrs. Polly Berry and Miss Wimple, containing an application for land at the bend of the Tonewanta, (Batavia). Wrote the following reply :
" RANSOMVILLE, Feb. 11, 1801.
" Mr. Ellicott presents his compliments to Mrs. Berry and Miss Wimple. He has received their application for two town lotts by Mr. Davis. The lotts Mr. Ellicott proposes to lay off, when he shall make his establish- ment, will contain about forty acres each. Mr. Ellicott will reserve one of those lotts for the ladies, if they shall conceive it an object worth their attention. In the mean.
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HISTORY OF BUFFALO.
time, they will believe him their friend and humble servant.
"J. ELLICOTT.
" MRS. BERRY AND MISS WIMPLE.
" Feb. 8th, 1801 .- I learn this morning that six bomb mortars passed along the Queenston road, to be deposited at Fort Niagara.
" Feb. 17th .- A very elaborate communication to Mr. Busti, suggesting a modification of the terms of sale of their lands, so as to give more inducement to parties to buy large tracts, to retail to actual settlers."
He closes his communication to Mr. Busti as follows : "My present situation (although the accommodations are as good as could be expected,) is gloomy, for the want of society-our nearest neighbors being eighteen miles distant."
" Feb. 26th .- Last night, lodged at this house upwards of forty people-men, women and children-moving principally, or all, to New Connecticut and Presque Isle. There was, however, one travelling merchant, from Philadelphia, on his way to His Britanic Majesty's do- minions of Upper Canada.
" March 17th, 1801 .- This morning, agreed with the White Seneca (Seneca White) to lay out and mark a road to pass on the south side of the Tonnawanta Reser- vation, so as to pass over the best and dryest ground and straightest direction, for which I am to give him ten dollars ; also, make a road from the Eleven Mile Creek to the mouth of the Tonnawanta, and from thence to old Fort Slosher, for which I am to give him eight dollars. He is to commence the first in four days from this date.
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LAND AGENCY-MR. ELLICOTT'S JOURNAL.
"Tuesday, March 24th .- * * Some drunken Indi- ans here; but this is hardly worth recording, as these people are seldom sober when whiskey can be had in sufficient quantity to make them otherwise. However there is one circumstance worthy of mention and that is, one of them is on his way from his village to Cannandar- que to replevin a gun which he pawned at a still-house in that place for whiskey to the amount of five shillings. His whole journey, on account of this five shillings whis- key business, costs him two hundred miles' travel. This circumstance seems to show the amazing fondness these people have for whiskey and ardent spirits.
"Tuesday, March 26th .- This evening the White Sen- eca returned, after having explored and marked a new road south of the Tonawanta Reservation. He reported that he had found mostly excellent ground for that pur- pose. Many places he passed through, did his heart good, on account of the beauty of the land.
"March 28th, 1801 .- * * Examined part of the White Seneca's road. Found he had taken care to keep the ridges and around the swamps. Of course his road is not exactly straight.
" Saturday, April 4th, 1801 .- This day the mill-seat of Asa Ransom was levelled, and found to be twenty- eight and a half feet fall.
" April 8th, 1801 .- Arrived here to-day a Judge Aus- tin, from Old Connecticut, with his family and others, bound for New Connecticut. They appear to be decent, respectable people. Judge Austin informs me that should the Holland Company be disposed to open a road from the western boundary of the triangle towards Buf- falo Creek, along the margin of Lake Erie, that the sev-
150
HISTORY OF BUFFALO.
eral Connecticut Land Companies would subscribe gene- rously towards defraying the expense of the road."
The following entry is made in his journal under date of
" Monday, July 27th, 1801 .- Mr. Alston and his lady, the daughter of the Vice President of the United States, (Aaron Burr), arrived here this day, at twelve o'clock, on their way to view the great Falls of Niagara. Left here at three o'clock.
" August 14th, 1801 .- Went to Buffalo Creek, 'alias ' New Amsterdam, to lay off a lot for a school house, the inhabitants offering to erect one at their own expense.
"August 15th .- This day completed the object, and transacted all my business.
" August 16th, Sunday .- Mr. John Palmer spoke for the grass lot in care of Mr. Lane. Agrees to pay a rea- sonable rent. Left Buffalo and returned to Twelve-mile Creek-found some land jobbers.
"Saturday, 23d January, 1802-Priests Holmes and Palmer passed by on their return from the business of Missionaries among the Indians to New York."
In the original survey of New Amsterdam, a lot of one hundred acres including the entire front on Main street, between Swan and Eagle streets, extending east- wardly, was called Outer Lot 104, which was taken up by Mr. Ellicott, himself, with the intention, as was supposed, of making his permanent residence here. Directly in the centre of the front of this lot, as originally surveyed, was a curve, throwing the street at that point into almost a half circle, leaving Main, Niagara, Church and Erie streets to radiate from this circle. It was supposed that he intended this ground for a residence, which would of
151
SITUATION OF BUFFALO.
course have stood in Main street, in front of the churches. But Mr. Ellicott never built upon the lot, and the street was ultimately straightened. Outer Lot, No. 104 re- mained entire, uncultivated, and unimproved, until Mr. Ellicott's death, when it was divided among his heirs and by them laid out into streets and lots, and sold, and is now a well-built portion of the city. It is said that the action of the Commissioners of Highways, in straighten- ing Main street, in front of Outer Lot, 104, occasioned Mr. Ellicott's abandoning the idea of making Buffalo his permanent residence, and he built a house in Batavia, where he fixed his abode, and thenceforth seemed to lose his interest in Buffalo.
In one of his letters to Mr. Cazenove, speaking of the situation he had chosen for the seat of a future city, Mr. Ellicott says :
"The building spot is situated about sixty perches from the lake, on a beautiful elevated bank, about twenty-five feet perpendicular height above the surface of the water in the lake, from the foot of which, with but little labor, may be made the most beautiful meadows, extending to the lake, and up Buffalo Creek to the Indian line. From the top of the bank, there are few more beautiful pros- pects. Here the eye wanders over the inland sea to the south-west, until the sight is lost in the horizon. On the north-west is seen the progressing settlements in Upper Canada, and south-westerly with the pruning some trees out of the way, may be seen the Company's land, for the distance of forty miles gradually ascending, variegated with vallies and gentle rising hills, until the sight passes their summit, at the sources of the waters of the Missis- sippi."
152
HISTORY OF BUFFALO.
The surveys were not completed so that sales of village lots could be made, much before 1804, but sales of farm lots in the vicinity were made in 1803. Mr. Ellicott writes to Mr. Busti, in May, 1802, deprecating the delay, and says :
" While speaking on the subject of taking things in their proper time, I cannot refrain from mentioning that the Company delaying opening their lands for sale in New Amsterdam, and the lands adjoining thereto, I fear the nick of time will pass by, at least for making a town of New Amsterdam.
"The State, last session of the Legislature, passed a law for the purchasing the natives' rights of land, the pre-emption right of which, was in the State, (on our map, called the New York Reservation), the southern part of which lands reach near to New Amsterdam, and there is a situation on said lands intended to be purchased, equally or more advantageous for a town, than New Amsterdam ; so that if the State shall make the intended purchase this summer, and offer this spot for sale before New Amsterdam gets in operation, the 'nick of time' will be lost to the future prosperity of that place. It would therefore evidently tend more to the advantage of the Dutch proprietors to give the agent-general of their concerns in this country, full and discretionary powers to act, and transact their business as existing circumstances might evince to be most conducive to the interests of the proprietors."
The allusion is to Black Rock, which Mr. Ellicott even then considered "equally or more advantageous for a town than Buffalo." These advantages were reversed by the building of the long pier in the Niagara River, for
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