USA > New York > Erie County > Buffalo > An authentic and comprehensive history of Buffalo : with some account of its early inhabitants, both savage and civilized ; comprising historic notices of the Six Nations or Iroquois Indians, including a sketch of the life of Sir William Johnson, and of other prominent white men, long resident among the Senecas ; arranged in chronologial order > Part 7
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HISTORY OF BUFFALO.
The following letter of an educated Seneca Chief, liv- ing upon the Cattaraugus Reservation, is inserted as cor- roborative of the views entertained by the author, was written in 1864:
LETTER OF N. PARKER TO O. H. MARSHALL, ESQ., BUFFALO.
" As my name is mentioned in the reply of Mr. Wright to yours of the 19th June last, I would say that I do not wish that statement should take the precedence of his answer, although it is somewhat similar, though differing from him a little on the original spelling of the word or name. Originally, as I am informed, the name was spo- ken thus, -' De-dyo-syo-oh,' being similar to 'Ti-hose- ro-ron,' which as I believe, must have been understood and written by the one who wrote the the treaty, for 'De- dyo-syo-oh,' and from this I infer that it is a Seneca word, instead of Mohawk. The name 'De-dyo-syo-oh ' means basswood surrounding a thing-that is, basswood sprouts that grew around stumps of the same kind in great abun- dance, that lined the banks of the creek near its mouth.
" As for the name 'Buffalo,' I am informed that the Indians, in their hunting excursions from the East, to the vicinity of Buffalo City, say that there was plenty of buffalo in the western part of the State, and that their principal place of resort was at a lick in the bed of the creek, just above the Sulphur Springs, on the Buffalo Creek, and that at that place was the first settlement of the Indians.
"Soon after their settlement there, the French came among them, and they were informed that there was a lick there which had been a great resort for the buffalo.
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ORIGIN OF THE NAME OF BUFFALO.
Thence they (the French) named it in their language ' the Buffalo Creek.' Soon after, the settlement was burned, either by the English or French, in their wars, and that when the Indians settled there or its vicinity afterwards, great quantities of wampum beads were found among the ashes of that settlement; which shows that the French did come among them there, as they were the manufactu- rers of such beads.
"Furthermore, as an evidence that there must have been buffalo in this vicinity, I have dug up from the old camping ground of the Indians, eighteen inches under the surface,-I have found the teeth or molars of what I supposed to be the buffalo; they being in size, equal to that of the largest ox.
"I should have made more extended remarks to your inquiries, but the substance is here for your considera- tion.
Yours, &c., N. H. PARKER.
CHAPTER V.
As illustrative of the period of history upon which we are now engaged, the following extract of a letter, and a journal of the Rev. Samuel Kirkland, of a journey he made to Buffalo Creek at the request and under the in- structions of Gov. Clinton, in 1788, are here inserted :
EXTRACTS FROM A LETTER OF MISS POWELL, DURING A TOUR FROM MONTREAL TO DETROIT, IN MAY, 1785.
"Fort Niagara is by no means pleasantly situated. It is built close upon the lake which gains upon it so fast that in a few years they must be overflowed. There however, we passed some days very agreeably, at the house of a Mr. Hamilton, a sensible, worthy man. Mrs. Hamilton is an amiable, sweet little woman ; I regretted very much she did not live at Detroit, instead of at Niagara. We received the most polite attention from Col. Hunter, the commanding officer. and all his officers.
" Lord Edward Fitzgerald had been some months at Niagara before us, and was making excursions among the Indians, of whose society he seems particularly fond. Joseph Brant, a celebrated Indian Chief, lives in that neighborhood. Lord Edward had spent some days at his. house, and seemed charmed with his visit.
" Brant returned to Niagara with his Lordship. He was
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EXTRACTS FROM A LETTER OF MISS POWELL.
the first, and indeed the only savage, I ever dined at table with. As the party was large, he was at too great a distance from me to hear him converse, and I was by no means pleased with his looks. These people pay great deference to rank ; with them it is only obtained by merit. They attended Lord Edward from the house of one chief to another, and entertained him with danc- ing which is the greatest compliment they can pay.
"Short as our stay was at Niagara, we made so many pleasant acquaintances we were very sorry to leave them. Several gentlemen offered to escort us to Fort Erie, which made the journey very cheerful. Mr. Hamilton, Mr. Humphries, of the Engineers, Mr. Robinson, of the 60th Regiment, Mr. Meridith with Capt. Harrow, Mr. Smith and my brother, went in the boat with us to the landing, which is eight miles from the fort. There the river becomes impassible, and all the luggage was drawn up a steep hill in a cradle, a machine I never saw before. We walked up the hills and were conducted to a good garden with an arbour in it, where we found a cloth laid for dinner, which was provided for us by the officers of the fort. After dinner we were to get on to Fort Sloscher, seven miles, by any means we could. Two calashes were procured ; in one of them my brother drove my sister, and Mr. Humphries me, in the other. Mr. Meridith got a horse, and the rest of the gentlemen made use of their feet. The road was good, the weather charming, and our ride would have been delightful, only the horses were so bad that they could scarcely crawl. I never breathe freely when a horse seems tired ; I always feel as if I was committing a crime in driving it. Mr. H., who is very humane, gave up the point of whipping the poor
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HISTORY OF BUFFALO.
devil, out of respect to Capt. Watson, to whom the horse had once belonged, a circumstance which increased my compassion, for of all men living Watson was the most compassionate, and in the condition the animal was, would as soon have attempted to carry as to drive liim. It was not to be borne, so we took one of the horses from the cart the children and servants were in, and made the best of the way after the party. The afternoon was wearing away and this was the only opportunity we should have of seeing the falls. All our party collected together about half a mile above the falls and walked down to them. I was in raptures all the way. The falls I had heard of forever, but no one had mentioned the rapids !
For half a mile the river comes foaming down im- mense rocks, some of them forming cascades thirty.or forty feet high. The banks are covered with woods, as are a number of islands, some of them very high out of the water. One in the center of the river runs out into a point and seems to divide the falls (which would be otherwise quite across the river) into the form of a crescent. I believe no mind can form an idea of the im- mensity of the body of water, or the rapidity with which it hurries down. The height is one hundred and eighty feet, and long before it reaches the bottom it looses all appearance of a liquid. The spray rises like light sum- mer clouds, and when the rays of the sun are so reflected through it they form innumerable rainbows, but the sun was not in a situation to show this effect when we were there. One thing I could find no one to explain to me, which is, the stillness of the river at the bottom of the falls. It is smooth as a lake for half a mile, deep, and narrow, the banks very high with trees hanging over them.
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EXTRACTS FROM A LETTER OF MISS POWELL.
" I was never before sensible of the full power of scene- ry, nor did I suppose the eye could carry to the mind such strange emotions of pleasure, wonder and solemnity. For a time, every other impression was erased from my memory. Had I been left to myself, I am convinced I should not have thought of moving whilst there was light to distinguish objects. With reluctance, I at length attended to the proposal of going, determining in my own mind that when I returned, I would be mistress of my own time and stay a day or two at least. As Fort Schlosher was only at the distance of a pleasant walk, we all chose to go on foot. We were received by Mr. Foster, of the 60th regiment, one of the most elegant young men I ever saw. Here we were extremely well accommodated, and much pleased with the house and garden. I never saw a situation where retirement wore so many charms.
"The next day we went in batteaux to Fort Erie. On our arrival, we found the commanding officer, Mr. Boyd, had gone on a party with Lord Edward and Mr. Bris- bane, to the other side of the Niagara, where the Indi- ans were holding a council. The gentlemen returned in the evening, and seemed so much pleased with their en- tertainment that we readily agreed to their proposal that we should accompany them the next day.
"I thought to have an opportunity of seeing a number of Indians together, of the most respectable class of that people, a peculiar piece of good fortune.
"We saw several chiefs at their toilet as we passed along to the spot where the council was held. They sat upon the ground with the most profound gravity, dress- ing themselves before a small looking-glass ; for they
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HISTORY OF BUFFALO.
are very exact in arranging their ornaments, and not a little whimsical. I am told one of these fellows will be an hour or two in painting his face ; and when any one else would think him sufficiently horrible, some new con- ceit will strike him, and he will wash it all off and begin again.
"The women dress with more simplicity than the men, at least all that I have seen ; but at this meeting there were not many of the fair sex. Some old squaws, who sat in council, were present, and also a few young ones, to dress the provisions ; for their great men, as well as those of our world, like a good dinner after spending their lungs for the good of their country.
" We saw some of the squaws employed in taking fish in a basket. A gentleman of our party took the basket from one of them, and attempted to catch the fish as she did, but failing, they laughed at his want of dexterity One young squaw sat in a tent, weaving a sort of worsted garment intermixed with beads. I suppose she was a lady of distinction, for her ears were bored in four differ- ent places, with ear rings in them all. She would not speak English, but seemed to understand what we said to her. A gentleman introduced Mrs. Powell and me as white squaws, begging her to go on with her work, as we wished to see how it was done. She 'complied imme- diately, with great dignity, taking no more notice of us than if we were posts - a proof of her good breeding.
" We then went up to a very beautiful spot. The tall trees were in full leaf, and the ground covered with wild flowers ; and were seated on a log in the centre, where we could see all that passed. Upwards of two hundred chiefs were assembled and seated in proper order. They
95.
EXTRACTS FROM A LETTER OF MISS POWELL.
were the delegates of the Six Nations. Each tribe formed a circle under the shade of a tree, their faces to- wards each other. They never changed their places, but sat or lay upon the grass, as they liked. The speaker of each tribe stood with his back against the tree. The old women walked one by one, with great solemnity, and seated themselves behind the men. They were wholly covered by their blankets, and sought not by ornaments to attract or frighten the other sex; for I cannot tell whether the men mean to make themselves charming or horrible by the pains they take with their persons. On seeing this respectable band of matrons, I was struck with the different opinions of mankind. In England, when a man grows infirm and his talents are obscured by age, the wits decide upon his character by calling him an old woman. On the banks of Lake Erie, a wo- man becomes respectable as she grows old; and I sup- pose the greatest compliment you can pay a young In- dian here is to say that he is as wise as an old woman - a good trait of savage understanding. These ladies observe a modest silence in the debate, (I fear they are not like the women of other countries) but nothing is de - termined without their advice and approbation. I was very much struck with the figures of these Indians as they approached. They are tall and finely made, and walk with a dignity and grace you can form no idea of. Our beaux looked quite insignificant beside them. One man recalled to my mind the description of one of Homer's heroes. I was told he was a chief of distinc- tion, and spoke English, and that if I pleased, he should be introduced to me. I had some curiosity to see how a chief of the Six Nations would pay his compliments,
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HISTORY OF BUFFALO.
but little did I expect the elegance with which he ad- dressed me. The Prince of Wales does not bow with more grace than Capt. David. He spoke English with propriety, and returned all the compliments paid him with ease and politeness. As he was not only the hand- somest, but the best dressed man I saw, I will endeavor to describe him. His person is tall and fine as it is pos- sible to imagine; his features handsome and regular, with a countenance of much softness ; his complexion not disagreeably dark ; and I really believe he washes his face, for it appeared perfectly clean and free from paint. His hair was shaved off, except a little on the top of his head, to which his ornaments were fastened ; and his head and ears were painted a glowing red. Round his head was fastened a fillet of highly polished silver From the left temple hung two straps of black velvet, covered with silver beads and brooches. On the top of his head was placed a fox-tail feather, which bowed to the wind, as did two black ones, one in each ear. A pair of immense ear rings, which hung below his shoul- ders, completed his head-dress, which I assure you was not unbecoming, though, I must confess, somewhat fan- tastical. His dress was a shirt of colored calico - the neck and shoulders covered so thick with silver brooches as to have the appearance of a net-and his sleeves were much like those the ladies wore when I left Eng- land, fastened about the arm with a broad bracelet of highly polished silver, engraved with the arms of Eng- land ; four smaller bracelets round his wrists, of the same material ; and around his waist a large scarf of very dark colored stuff, lined with scarlet, which hung to his feet. One part of this scarf he generally drew over his
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JOURNAL OF REV. SAM'L KIRKLAND.
left arm, which had a very graceful effect when he moved. And his legs were covered with blue cloth, made to fit neatly, with an ornamental garter bound be- low the knee. I know not what kind of a being your imagination presents to you but I sincerely declare that altogether Capt. David made the finest appearance that I ever saw in my life. Do not suppose that all were dress- ed in the same taste. Their clothes are not all cut by the same pattern like the beaux of England. Every In- dian is dressed according to his own fancy and you see no two alike. Even their faces are differently painted. Some of them wear their hair in a strange manner, others shave it entirely off. One old man diverted me ex- tremely ; he was dressed in a scarlet coat richly embroi- dered, which must have been made at least half a century ago, with a waistcoat of the same which reached half way down his thighs. He wore blue cloth stockings, and as he strutted about more than the rest, I concluded he was particularly pleased with his dress, and with himself. They told us he was a chief of distinction.
" We only staid to hear two speeches ; they spoke with great gravity and with no action, frequently making long pauses for a hum of applause. Lord Edward, Mr. Bris- bane and Mr. Meridith remained with them all night, and were entertained with dancing."
" JOURNAL OF REV. SAM'L KIRKLAND 'S MISSIONARY VISIT TO THE FIVE NATIONS FROM SEPT. 23, TO DECEMBER, (1788) WITH SOME ACCOUNT OF THE PRESENT STATE AND DISPOSITION TO- WARDS THE GOVERNMENT OF NEW YORK, PURSUANT TO IN- STRUCTIONS OF GOV. CLINTON.
" Sept. 23d. - Set out from Fort Stanwix, taking my 7
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HISTORY OF BUFFALO.
passage in Esquire Phelps's boats which I had detained two days at Armstrong's for the purpose, and by the Governor's direction.
"29th. - This day overtook the party of Senekas on the Onondaga River, who have have lately attended the Governor's treaty at Fort Stanwix. They had been de- tained here several days, by one of their party being very sick. They requested me not to leave them in their distress as they were short of provisions and upwards of thirty in number. I immediately dealt out a part of my store of bread and meat to them and encouraged them to come on the next day with their light canoes and over- take me at the Cross Lake, and I would see them safe to Kanadasegea.
" 30th. - This morning very early, the party of Sene- kas came up with us.
" Oct. 4th. - Arrived at Kanadesegea. Here met with a number of Senekas and Cayogas, who were wait- ing at this place for the return of the party which had at- tended the Governor's treaty, and had accompanied me from the Onondaga River. There were also several Onondagos on the ground who had lately come from Fort Stanwix, and bound to Buffalo Creek. Our reception was various ; some welcomed our arrival with every expres- sion of joy-others looked upon us with a jealous and envious eye ; particularly one Jack Berry, gave out some threats against the party of Senekas who had attended the Governor's treaty, as having disobeyed the chiefs.
" 6th. - I was informed by Capt. Noble, of Sheffield, (one of Esq. Phelps's agents) and some of the Indians of the measures taken by the anti-government party to pre- vent the Indians going down to the Governor's treaty at
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JOURNAL OF REV. SAM'L KIRKLAND.
Fort Stanwix, and the high scenes they had passed through about two weeks before my arrival. The chief's were kept in one continual state or round of dissipation for near three weeks, seldom sober enough one day to know what had passed the day before; one part of the tumult rose almost to an insurrection. Doct. B. and Col. M -n had between twenty and thirty riflemen under arms for twenty-four hours, and severe threats given out against P. Ryckinan and Col. Reed as enemies to the one party, and as encouraging the Indians to proceed to the Governor's treaty, and at a certain crisis were per- emptorily ordered off the ground or abide the consequen- ces. But the interposition of Col. Noble, who appears to be a friend to order as well as a man of feeling, and by the aid of some Indians the tumult ceased.
" 7th. - Had a conference of severval hours with sev- eral Senekas and Cayogas who had been some time here, waiting for their friends to return from the Governor's treaty. In this conference I communicated to them, the issue of the late treaty and settlements made by the Gov- ernment with the Onondagos and Oneidas. The female governess at Genesee behaved well, and was not afraid to speak her sentiments on the occasion.
" I was also informned, upon pretty good authority, that half a township of land south of the outlet of the Ca- yoga Lake and three hundred pounds in cash, were given, or stipulated for, to a certain Lieut. Doxstader, living near Grand River (formerly of Kaguawage in Montgomery county) to relinquish his purpose of going to Gov. Clin- ton's treaty.
" In a private conference with a young Buffalo Chief called Sagoh-hewatha, (Red Jacket), he earnestly re-
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HISTORY OF BUFFALO.
qnested me to go myself to Buffalo Creek and inform the chiefs there of the real state of things, and put their minds right ; that a party spirit had gained such an influ- ence among them that no verbal message would effect the purpose ; he also advised me not to speak freely upon this subject indiscriminately while on that ground. The Seneka warrior called the Infant, (son of the old chief Sagwayeengwalaghton) and who had ever been the most active person in the anti-governmental party, now declared that he would have nothing more to do with that party, and soon gave out publicly, that he was determined at all events to accompany the first Indians that should go down to Albany the ensuing winter.
" A young Cayoga, belonging to one of the principal families of that tribe, asked me if it was my real opinion that the Governor of New York would hold a treaty with them. He then expressed himself that the sum of his wish for the good of his nation was to have one township instead of one mile square of land reserved for their use.
" 9th. - The Indian arrived with the belt and speech to the Senekas, &c., the import of which soon spread through the camp and occasioned a change of counte- nances, and no small stir.
"11th, Saturday. - I was this day informed that Mons'r DeBarge was to set out the next day for Buffalo Creek and take with him the Infant and the Seneka In- dian who was intrusted with the Governor's message, and if necessary to extend their journey to Niagara with a letter from Col. Mc -n to my friend Col. B. It was carefully reported that the Governor's message might pro- duce some revolution among the Indians unfavorable to Mr. L-n's interest, and the Infant would soon disaffect
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JOURNAL OF REV. SAM'L KIRKLAND.
the minds of all the Indians in this quarter if not re- moved, as he was an obstinate, haughty, persevering fel- low, and that my friend Col. B -. should be prevailed upon if possible to detain the Infant in his neighborhood until next spring.
" 12th, L. Day .- The forementioned company set out agreeably to the information I had yesterday of their design.
" 13th, Mon. - I set ont myself this day for Gene- see, having a little business to do there for Mr. Phelps ; travelled sixteen miles on foot, then hired a horse.
"15th. - Arrived at Genesee ; the next day visited the Big Tree ; found that Monsieur had been to Kalinghya- delon, a village about thirty miles south of Genesee and had passed by the Big Tree's village but one day before my arrival. In conversation with the Big Tree I found my information of Mr. DeBarge's business to be exactly true in every particular.
" 17th .- Accomplished the business for Mr. Phelps, and fixed the stake for the southern boundary of his pur- chase of the fork of the Genesee. Set out the survey- ors ; seven Indians present. I may here just observe that the Indians had previously insisted upon my being present at the fixing of this stake, and taking the right direction.
" 18th. - Spent the most of this day with a number of the Senekas on public business. I was here informed, that some threats had been given out against the old On- ondaga Chiefs, viz: Black Cap, Kahaktoton, that, on condition of that part of their nation residing on the Buf- falo, should have a share in the late sale of their terri- tory to the Government of New York, that their lives would pay for it, and other evils should come.
1
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HISTORY OF BUFFALO.
" There were some unjust and cruel reflections cast upon the Governor, in his late negotiations with the Onondagos, that the treaty was partial; that he has taken advantage of the absence of many of their chiefs. After a long and minute explanation of the settlement made at Fort Stanwix, I made the following short address to them :
" MY CINILDREN : - I always speak freely with you on every subject which I think concerns your interest ; I have heard the voice of the birds since I have been among you-by the voice, 'tis an evil bird ; let me can- tion you against listening to such reports. I am sorry to tell you I have heard, since I have been among you, evil things spoken of Governor Clinton and his treaty at Fort Stanwix. They are most unjust and unreasonable; such as no good man could possibly report unless thro' en- tire ignorance. Let me ask you, did he not repeatedly send the invitation belt, even to Buffalo Creek, and come himself all the way from New York to Fort Stanwix, and then wait many days and weeks in expectation of your arrival -and excused all this patience, too, out of re- gard for your good ? How ungenerous is it to suggest the idea, as though the Governor chose a partial treaty. But you yourselves, my children, know whence these reports originated. Be careful therefore, how you reflect on those who have authority ; for all their transactions of a public nature must stand immovable, because the voice of the whole is in them. But the designs of evil minded persons, individuals, so soon as they come to light are blown away ; they cannot stand before the light and power of the chiefs, not a moment. Be patient, and harken to good counsel, and all your public concerns will, by and by, be adjusted to your satisfaction.
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JOURNAL OF REV. SAM'L KIRKLAND.
"To this I received their hearty thanks. The Indians appearing to be well satisfied and sufficiently informed, I concluded it was expedient for us to proceed further westward. I accordingly hired two Indians with their horses to make the more dispatch, to accompany me.
" 21st. - Called at Taghuawade. (Tonawanda) a village about thirty miles on this side the Buffaloe. The chief man was not at home, but gone to Niagara ; was informed that Mon'r DeBarge had passed this but two days, and in a drunken frolic of the Indians, had like to have been killed by the Infant, and another Indian belonging to this village.
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