History of Bronx borough, city of New York : compiled for the North side news, Part 6

Author: Comfort, Randall; Steuter, Charles David, 1839-; Meyerhoff, Charles A. D., 1833-
Publication date: 1906
Publisher: New York : North Side News Press
Number of Pages: 890


USA > New York > Bronx County > History of Bronx borough, city of New York : compiled for the North side news > Part 6


Note: The text from this book was generated using artificial intelligence so there may be some errors. The full pages can be found on Archive.org (link on the Part 1 page).


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At 228th Street and White Plains Road stood Washington's Headquarters, torn down about twenty years ago, as it was in the middle of the street. It was known as the "Shingled Housc." Reports tell us that the piano at Washington's Headquarters at Newburg was Mrs. Havens' instrument when she was a young lady in the Clinton family.


The name Ifustace is spelled in a great number of ways- Ilustead, Hustis and Ilustace, although Valentine's Manual of the Corporation of the City of New York gives it as Hustead, we have adopted the Ilustace spelling. In conclusion we may state that the old Havens house never had but two owners-Augustus Ilustace and Martha Havens.


. Originally the "Hustace-Cash" house was the residence of Augustus Hustace who owned all the broad acres that were bounded on the east by Scton's falls and the Schieffelin domain, on the west by the Bronx River, on the north by .229th Street and on the south by 216th Street, the latter Doing the northerly boundary of the Williams farm, and which comprised the greater part of the original village of Wakefield. Upon the sale of his Augustus Hustace, who owned all the broad acres that were bounded on the east by Seton's Falls and the Schieffelin domain, the most elevated portion on what is now 232d Street, and at his death it was purchased by Francis Crawford, the well known Prohibitionist. The original farm house is still contained in the building which was remodeled by the Squire's son, William A., "who lately sold it to Mr. Crawford by whom it was still further improved as at present. Through the old Hustace acres the Kingsbridge Road wound in a devious way, crossing the present White Plains Avenue in several places.


Passing further to the north, we learn of several immense trees, obliterated by the widening and straightening of White Plains Road. Where this road joins Demilt Avenue, was to be scen, in the centre of the roadway on the eastern side a magnifi- cent black walnut tree, surrounded by a stone wall. The inter- csting story of this tree follows:


"In the early days when what is now styled White Plains Road was then known as the Kingsbridge Road to Bedford, the county seat, the owner of the farm, who by the way, was a relative of the Paulding who captured Major Andre, planted a small black walnut tree for each of the thirteen colonics. They all thrived, but as this section developed, they had to give way to the march of progress. The widening of the roadway has rendered necessary the removing of the last three of the thir- teen original trees. When the saws were put to work, the trees measured three feet eight inches at the butt, and they were found to be perfectly sound, while the rings in the wood indi- cated the truth regarding the antiquity of the trees."


In its ancient days the Old White Plains Road is said to have crossed the present onc, between Gun Hill Road and the city linc, no less than seven times.


Such seems the weight of authority about the most im- portant landmarks in the northern portion of Williamsbridge. About 225th Street the Old Boston Post Road branched towards Eastchester, not joining the present Boston Road until at a point near New Rochelle.


CHAPTER XI


BOSTON ROAD


Name of Harlaem-The Ferry and Rates of Ferriage-The Three Harlem Bridges and Rates of Toll-Boston Road --- The Gouverneur Morris Tree-The Old School House-Mill Brook-Charlotte Temple's Home- Extracts from Washington's Diary-Madam Knight's Experiences


By this term we mean the present Third Avenue, a con- tinuation of the early "Eastern Post Road." It crossed the Harlem River near the Harlem Bridge, proceeding northeasterly to New Rochelle, where it joined the early Post Road previously mentioned.


When the original Dutch settlers began to flock to the hills and valleys of "Harlaem," the first thing they did was to look around for a suitable name. Immediately a great dissension


peared on the steam railroad cars: "New York and Harlaem Railroad."


In the year 1666, when the sleepy residents of Harlaem were comfortably settled and enjoying life around their immense fire- places, with long-stemmed pipes in their mouths, and all accus- tomed to going to bed at. four o'clock every afternoon, someone made the startling announcement that beyond the broad river that flowed past their doors was to be found the most beautiful


Boston Road at Spencer's Corners, near Williamsbridge


arose, each stout burgher insisting that the spot should be called after his own native town in old Holland. Finally they decided upon a mest happy expedient ; they resolved to style the place "Harlaem," for the simple reason that none of them had come from that village, and as a result, no one could object. Such. we learn, is the origin of the name which for a long time ap-


farming land imaginable, just the site for their favorite "loteries." This was enough. For once they hastily rose to the occasion. They must have a ferry at once to carry them across to those fair shores where their "boueries" were to be


The site selected was about 120th Street and the East River. where the old "Harlaem Road" terminated. The peculiarly slant-


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HISTORY OF BRONX BOROUGH


ing and irregular boundary lines, which even to-day are found in this section of Harlem and which are so at variance with all .trong streets and avenues, and form such a bete-noir alike to " searchers and surveyors, are lasting evidences of the former asistence of this early highway.


A ferry meant a ferryman, and in 1667 Johannes Verveelen v.1. duly installed, with a gigantic negro, called Matthys, as his issant. He was allowed to furnish food, drink and lodging, to the weary wayfarers he ferried across, but not a drop to the Indians.


Here are some of the curious rates that he charged for carrying travelers from Harlaem to the Bronx shore :


"For every passenger, 2 pence silver or six pence wampum; for every ox or cow that shall be brought into his ferry-boat, & pence or 24 stivers; and cattle under a year old, 6 pence or 18 stivers wampum; all cattle that are swan over pay but 1/2 price.


"Ile is to take for diet, every man for his meal, 8 pence or 44 stivers wampum ; every man for his lodging. 2 pence a mar or 6 stivers wampum ; every man for his horse shall pay 4 pence for his night's hay or grass, or 12 stivers wampum, provide 1 the grass be in fence. "Signed,


"THO: DE LAVALL, Mayor.


"Dated July 3, 1667."


A distinguished clergyman, who in 1777 traveled through this section, has written the following graphic . description :


"Amid the appearance of desolation nothing struck me more forcibly than the sight of the highroad. Not a single, solitary traveler was seen from week to week, or from month to month. The world was motionless and silent except when one of the unhappy people ventured to the house of a neighbor no less unhappy, or a scouting party alarmed the inhabitants with the expectation of new injuries or sufferings. The very tracks of the carriages were grown over, and when they were discernible, resembled the faint impressions of the chariot wheels of Hercu- laneum. I strongly realized for the first time the import of that picturesque declaration in the Song of Deborah :


"In the days of Shamgar, the son of Anath, in the days of Jael, the highways were unoccupied, and the travelers walked through by-paths. The inhabitants of the villages ceased. They ceased in Israel."


In 1;go, however, Lewis Morris, of Morrisania, was author- ized by the Legislature to construct a bridge from Harlem across the river to Morrisania. He sold the privilege to a Mr. Coles, who, about 1795, built the first Harlem Bridge, an exceedingly antiquated looking affair, which nevertheless did noble service for perhaps seventy years, when the second one was erected.


Mott Haven Reformed Church, known as the Old Stone Church, Third Avenue (formerly Eoston Road) and 146th Street


In the early days of public accounts, we read :


"June 15. 1667-To 414 pints rum and 15 cans measured


beer, used in the agreement with Verveelen .. .f 20.


"Feb. 18, 1678-To I Anker good beer, dispensed when Do. Nieuwenhuysen was here to ordain the Deacon .f 7: 10.


"Sept. 9. 1088 -- To rum at his funeral. f 7."


In the vestry book of an ancient parish is to be found this curious old entry :


"March 13. 1750-To Ebenezer Kniffin, for 12 gallon Rum for ye burying of Patrick Holoday


A short time after the Revolution, when the scattered resi- dents of Morrisania bad settled comfortably to peace, the plan ni a bridge across the Harlem River began to be discussed. During the war there was not the slightest need for such a tineture, as Morrisania and the neighboring regions formed a Motion of the dreaded "Neutral Ground."


This was such a substantial iron structure that people declared its only fault was that it contained too much iron. In its turn it was removed only a few years ago to make room for the gigantic bridge that to-day spans the Harlem River at this point.


The Laws of 1808 give the following rates of toll which early travelers had to pay when crossing Harlem Bridge:


Every four-wheeled pleasure carriage and horses. .3713 cts.


Every two-wheeled pleasure carriage and horses


Every pleasure sleigh and horses 19 ct -.


Every common wagon and horses 12:3 0


Every common sled and horses.


Ox cart and oven


Every one-horse cart and horse.


Every man and horse .. 1) CIS.


Every dozen hogs, sheep or calves


Every foot passenger


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HISTORY OF BRONX BOROUGH


Troops with their stores, artillery and carriages, were passed free.


Hunt as one will through the old records, there is no men- tion at all of the rates charged to bicycles, automobiles or even policemen. This must have been an oversight.


In the same year that the first Harlem Bridge was built, the Legislature decided to lay out a road, through Morrisania, to connect with the main turnpike at New Rochelle. Once more


stage coach is still quite good enough for me, even though the farmers do have to come to its rescue on almost every trip. and lift it bodily out of the mud and set it on all fours once more!"


Some distance above Harlem Bridge, a woodland private lane branched off, leading to the historic residence of Gouverneur Morris on the Harlem Kills. As a boy I clearly remember see- ing the double line of ancient cherry trees that once flanked its sides. Where are those cherry trees to-day? Swallowed up in


Last of the Morris Trees


Mr. Coles appears on the scene as the contractor, and in 1797, the inimense multitude of apartment houses that have sprung after seven years were spent in making eight miles of road, the up like mushrooms in their place. Legislature finally declared it open as a public highway.


If we could imagine an ancient denizen of times of yore, standing and watching the incessant stream of carriages, wagons and automobiles now rattling by, and gazing at those marvelous cars that ring a bell whenever he looks at them, and eyeing suspiciously that mystifying railway up in the air, he would in his agony of surprise shriek out :


"Give me back my rural Boston Road with its woods and fields and its majestic weeping willows! The lumbering old


What is styled the "last of the Morris trees" was located near Willis Avenue, Mott Haven, and a photograph taken over forty years ago shows it even then to have been a grizzled and ancient veteran.


About 157th Street, east of Third Avenue, and close to the tracks of the Port Morris Railroad, there stond until recently the tiniest little school house, almost literally as old as the IM- Under its low thatched roof the children of peasants and gonry alike gathered to receive their early education. There the dough-


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HISTORY OF BRONX BOROUGH


ters of the soil inet on equal terms the sons of the Morrises, whose splendid mansions still remain as ornaments to the fast changing vicinity.


"The mosses of a century seem to have gathered on the long slope of its roof," wrote a talented author, some years be- fore the destruction of the little school, "and it appears in every part to be slowly withering to decay. like a dried leaf on a November oak. Most of the little ones who crept and daneed along by country paths to the pedagogue who flourished a good birchen rod there, have grown old and tottered back to Mother Earth's embrace, but the frail little temple of learning has sur- vived them and still shelters life and love under its mosses."


At what is now 160th Street, Boston Road made a sharp turn to the right, to cross a little brook, whose waters, once clear and crystal, babbled merrily along over their pebbly bed under a double line of stately weeping willows. While this sounds far from a description of what I remember Mill Brook to be, yet it is strictly correct. Many wonder where the old stream received its name. On its banks in early days once stood a large sawmill, and we find. back in the old histories, that it was styled "The Saw Mill Brook."


Near Tremont, not far from the same Mill Brook, is said to have been the home of the celebrated Charlotte Temple. Only a pile of stones served to designate the site. "Alas, poor Char- lotte! The tears that have been shed over thy tragie fate would easily make another such rivulet !"


From 163d Street, that venerable thoroughfare Boston Road, extends up the hill, skirting what was once the "Village of Morrisania," up hills and down dales, until it joined the original Boston Post Road near New Rochelle.


It is to be feared that early travelers did not fall in love with what they found in this region. In 1692, Colonel Heathcote wrote: "When I first arrived . . . I found it the most


heathenish country I ever saw in all my life, where the inhabi- tants called themselves Christians."


General Washington, while on his way homeward from New England, writes in his diary the following: "The badness of these roads having been described as I went, I shall say nothing of them now. The road for the greater part, indeed the whole way, was very rough and stoney, but the land strong, well covered with grass, a luxuriant crop of Indian corn. The farms are very elose together, and are separated by fences of stone, which indeed are easily made, as the country is immense- ly stony. The road is hilly and trying to wheels and carriages."


"Pretty strong language this." some one has observed, "for the calm and benignant Father of his Country. It is to be feared that the road tried his patience as strongly as it tried his car- riage."


It is not out of place here to quote from the journal of Madame Knight and see what she has to say :


"We hasted along, walking and leading our horses neer a mile together up a prodigios High llill, and descending Moun- tainos passages that almost broke my heart in ascending before.


"They told ine there was a singing Quaker lived there, says the woman, 'are you singing Quakers?' 'Yea,' says they; then take my squalling Brat of a child here and sing to it,' says she. 'for I have almost split my throat with singing to him and can't get the rogue to sleep.'


"I was shewn up a pair of stairs which had a narrow pass- age which was almost stopped by the Bulk of my Body. Never- theless, being exceeding weary, down I laid my poor Carkes (never more tired ) and found my covering as scanty as my Bed was hard. My poor bones complained bitterly, not being used to such Lodgings, and poor I made but one Grone which was from the time I went to bed to the time I Riss, which was about three in the morning, Setting by the Fire till Light."


i


Morris High School. Boston Avenue and 166th Street


CHAPTER XII


GOUVERNEUR MORRIS AND OLD MORRISANIA


Richard Morris-Gouverneur Morris-The Gouverneur Morris Mansion-Anecdotes-The Lewis Morris Mansion -Morrisania Almost the Capital of America


About the year 1670 the foundations of the immense Morris estate were laid when Captain Richard Morris, a British mer- chant from Barbadoes, bought in behalf of himself and his brother Lewis, the former "Broncksland." He had served in Cromwell's army, and after his stay in Barbadoes had drifted to our shores. A few years later, we read, both Richard and his wife died, leaving behind them an infant son, Lewis, who in after years became possessed of about 1.920 acres of land, and was made the first Lord of the Manor of Morrisania.


The story is told that his tutor, a pious old Quaker, while once engaged in meditation in the woods, heard a voice, as he supposed from Heaven, directing him to go and spread the gospel among the Indians. The old man was actually on the point of starting when he discovered that the mysterious voice was that of young Lewis Morris, who had climbed into a tree where he thought his tutor would be likely to pass.


In the year 1752 Gouverneur Morris began his remarkable career. When only 27 years of age. he was summoned to at- tend Washington, spending three long months in conference with his chef at Valley Forge. A few years later, on being thrown from his carriage, his leg was so severely injured that it was amputated, an operation that modern surgery declares to have been entirely unnecessary. A clergyman once sought to con- vince him that the loss of his limb was really a blessing in dis- guise, when Mr. Morris laughingly replied: "My dear sir, you argue so handsomely and point out so clearly the advantages of being without legs, that I am almost tempted to part with the other."


In his old mansion formerly standing near the foot of St. Ann's Avenue, could be seen the marks made by his wooden leg as he went up and down the stairs. And it is said that this historic piece of wood-described as merely a rough piece fitted to the limb -- is carefully preserved as one of the treasured relics of the family.


The war being over, Gouverneur Morris received the honor of being appointed Minister Plenipotentiary to the Court of France, remaining there during the Reign of Terror. after al- most every one of the diplomatists from other countries had left the scene. "For," he said, "it is not for me to desert my post in the hour of difficulty."


When Lafayette was imprisoned by the Prussians, Morris generously supplied him with funds which were afterwards re- tried to him by the United States Government. And when Lafayette came to America on his noted visit, one of the first formans he came to was Gouverneur Morris at his home at Mor- 1: anti.


Mrs. John Jay once wrote: "On Wednesday, when the President was away. Mr. Washington called on me, and on


Thursday, after an early breakfast of our own, we went, agres- ably to invitation, to breakfast at General Morris's, Morrisania."


A noted Englishman was once the guest of Judge William Jay, and together they made a tour of calls on many prominent families. After visiting the Schuylers, Van Cortlandts and \; Rensselaers, they came to call upon Gouverneur Morris. Scarcely had they entered the spacious grounds when they un- expectedly came upon a man in his shirt sleeves, without coat or vest, his trousers tucked up, a scythe over his shoulder, the perspiration streaming down his face and his head crowned with an old straw hat with a hole in the top. It was Gouver- neur Morris himself! Small wonder, then, that we are told that Morris could lead the field with his scythe as well as re- cite whole verses of Virgil by heart.


The picturesque, vine-laden mansion of that time is said to have been erected in 1789, comprising but one-third of the original structure so tastefully modelled after a celebrated French chateau. Of his dwelling Morris ouce wrote: "I have a terrace roof-and by the by I will send you a receipt of how to make one -- of 130 feet long, from whence I enjoy one of the finest prospects, while enjoying the most salubrious air."


It is long since I visited the old house, but I have heard many interesting tales about it. In the library stood his private desk, whose secret recesses contained a mysterious drawer. where 784 livres were concealed, which had been intrusted to him by King Louis XIV, to aid in the escape of himself and his family from Paris. As Morris was unable to assist him, the m wicy was returned to the Duchess d'Angouleme, the daughter of the unfortunate King.


On all sides of the old mansion spacious halls and mas- sive staircases, with walls two feet thick. It has been apt'y stated that in every one of the thirty-two rooms you can swing a cat without injuring in the least either the walls or the cat.


Within almost a stone's throw of the Gouverneur Morris Mansion, Lewis Morris erected his own residence. now de- stroyed. One incident about this ancient house will perhaps al- ways be remembered. When Lewis Morris affixed his signature to the Declaration of Independence, he was only too well aware that, anchored within easy firing distance of his splendid man sion, were the hostile warships of the British ileet, ready at any moment to begin the work of destruction. But sign he dil. and the British did not see their way clear to reducing his house to a mass of ruins.


llow many are there of us who know that Morrisam: t! Morrisama of the Morrises, and afterwards styled "(11 Mor risania-came within an ace of being chosen as the all-important Capital of America? About 1790 a petition was forwarded 's Lewis Morris to Congress, urging in very strong ter's the


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HISTORY OF BRONX BOROUGH


selection of Morrisania as a seat for the new American govern- ment. Among the other advantages it was stated that "there were more fighting men within a sweep of thirty miles around Morrisania than perhaps within the same distance around any other place in America. Persons emaciated by sickness and. disease," it said, "there shortly recover and are speedily rein- stated in health and vigor." And lastly : "Other places contain many negro inhabitants, who not only do not fight themselves, but by keeping their masters at home, prevent them from fighting also."


Unfortunately, however, the hard-hearted Congress turned a deaf ear to these pleadings. choosing another site nearer the waters of the Potomac. But we of the Bronx cannot help think- ing how mide it would read :


"Morrisania on the Harlem. the Capital of America."


The title to Morrisania is most interesting, but perhaps more so to lawyers than to the world at large. A few of the most salient points, however, may be quoted :


"William, or Wilhelm Kieft, Dutch Governor, by patent dated October 20, 1644. granted to Arent Van Curlear, the land form- erly in the tenure of Jonas Bronkx, called by the Indians Ranachque, and by the English Bronckx Land. lying on the Main to the East, and over against Harlem town, near Hell Gate and a greater creek or river which divides it from Man- hattan's Island. containing about 500 acres or 250 morgens of land."


Many deeds follow, one of which is in Dutch. all b.ing


formerly in the possession of the late Gouverneur Morris. Sam- uel Edsall and wife convey the same premises on June 4. 1668. for 140 pounds, to Richard Morris. Lewis Morris remained in possession of the premises until 1673. when, the Dutch taking the place, his family was forced to leave the land. In 1674 the place was surrendered and Colondl Lewis Morris took possession again.


On February 7. 1684, six Indians signed a deed of confirma- tion, in the presence of six witnesses, of the same premises to Colonel Morris. This was also in the possession of Gouver neur Morris.


"Morrisania remained but sparsely settled for years." says an early writer. "During the Revolution its forests formed secure hiding places for the Loyalist refugees, and its thick coverts abounded in wolves. It remained in the family of its ancient owners until the first advent to its fields in 1848. An association then purchased 200 acres of its northern part and began a village. At that time there were but three houses on the purchase. At first it was called the New Village, but as i: grew it assumed the name of Morrisania, while Bronck's origi- nal property was known as "Old Morrisania."


Only a short time ago Mrs. Augusta Morris de Peyster and Augustus Newbold Morri- sold a portion of the old Fleetwood Park Race Course, a section that has been in the possession of the Morris family since 1668, the conveyance at that time repre- senting an adjustment of the English grant, the Dutch grant and an Indian deed.


1


Patriotic Celebration at the Gouverneur Meeres Mansion, on the aces an of the Recept not the la cey bell from Fareun Hall


1753025


CHAPTER XIII


MORRISANIA VILLAGE


The One House that Dates from the Period when Morrisania Was Bought -The Old Stone Gate House and the Jennings Old Homestead -Anecdotes-The "Huckleberry Road " --- The Old Stages-Tte Wm. H. Morris Mansion -The Morris Farm House-The Georgi House -- The Mott House-Other Old Houses-Robert Bonner's Advertisement-The Old Spy House


Passing to a later date, 1848, Gouverneur Morris the Second divided up a portion of his vast estate, offering it for sale in lots of an acre each. He wished to form an ideal village. At pres- ent there is but one house known to be standing in all the 200 acres that was in existence when Morris was interviewed by the men who wished a suburban Eden for a home.




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