USA > New York > Bronx County > History of Bronx borough, city of New York : compiled for the North side news > Part 7
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It is a small, square stone structure, evidently a farm build- ing on the Morris farm, just west of Third Avenue. below 167th Street. I have been told that it was originally a gate house to the William H. Morris mansion, and probably built in 1816, or earlier, when Fordham Avenue was the most prominent artery of travel in this neighborhood. It has but one room on each floor, each with two windows, fronting towards the south. now closed by the erection of a shed on that side. The laths are of oak, hand-hewn, curiosities in themselves. A second. recently torn down, was an ancient stone house. covered with brown stucco on the front, standing on the west side of Boston Road. south of Jefferson Place. Its proper title was the Jenning, Old ilomestead, although it was also styled the Drovers' Inn and the Old Stone Jug. The Jennings family has served in the Revo- lutionary War, the War of 1812, the Mexican and the Civil Wars. Mr. Jennings himself was one of the first settlers of Morrisania. The old house was one of this locality's most ancient landmarks.
Old Stone Gate House, Morrisania
sorted to be over 150 years old. At one time it was recupied a members of the De Lancey family, while in the rear the great it has also recently been demolished, with it- massive hand- wewn beams, and shingles twenty-eight inches long I have bad given me one of the hinges of the barn doors, thirty one inches
long. weighing eight pounds, and containing five great hand- forged spikes, the largest I have ever seen.
In examining the Jennings old homestead. I discovered that there were several doors and windows, one arch-shaped. on the side, showing that it must have once stood by itself, with these
Jennings' Old Homestead (Old Stone Jug)
openings leading to the open air. The greater part of the : are hand-hewn, and in one place is a most curious stat affairs-the stone walls are papered and at some later date : put up cleats and laths and paper directly over the original paper.
An old resident of this time-worn abode told me: "A ... 1841 we moved to the Drover's Inn. living in it many you. That was seven years before 'Morrisania' came into extent Way up in the garret there were lots of bullet holes, which : :: s have been made during the Revolution, for I have to idet'in long ago it was built. Come to think of it." she added. !: : 3. ing. "I am not sure whether those were bullet holes of ie bee holes. They looked as if they might have been cithe" Morrisania-for a long time called the "New Vilage. . on the time tables of the Harlem Railroad-possessed period all the delights of the true country We are . there were fire flies of immense size that would fit the air of a summer night, of which the glare of the addi's lamps was but a feeble imitation. An Irishman shet ofte Morrisania turtles out for a stroll, and announced that i inst seen "a strange animal with a saddle on his face level his head with his month."
Both Harlem and New Haven trains goed to . at a fearful rate of speed, regardless of life and Jim's Morrisania soon became well known for its long list 1 1
.
PRONG-HORNED ANTELOPE.
CZI
AT HIS NOON DAY MEAL.
YOUNG FEMALE WOODLAND CARIBOU.
SPECIMENS OF ANIMALS IN THE BRONX 700
£
37
HISTORY OF BRONX BOROUGH
disasters. One peculiar accident may be mentioned, fortunately not fatal. Two trains were approaching in opposite directions. when a village farmer tried to drive a big hierd of cows across the tracks. Nothing could persuade the cows to hurry. Crash went both trains into the drove! Result: "Nine cows killed. eleven cars wrecked and piled up in a manner that beggars de- seription, and that could not have been done by all the mechanics in the universe !"
One of the curiosities of Morrisania was the "Huckleberry Road," an ancient horse railway that in 1892 became the more modern and ever extending Union Railway. Old residents are never tired of telling of the peculiar experiences they went through in "Huckleberry" times. Getting out in the mud on a dark night to help lift the car on the track was looked upon as a common experience. One man told me that when the ear unexpectedly stopped, the passengers got out to see what was the matter, and found that the horse had fallen down in the water between the tracks, which was deep enough to drown him! In winter they would put straw in the ears as the best method of keeping thic passengers' feet warm.
Previous to the advent of the horse car a great, lumbering stage coach would creep slowly along to Harlem Bridge, where travelers would take either the Third Avenue horse-cars of steamboats to carry them down town. One instance is related of this stage. While passing the house of an old resident, the servant eame rushing out, erying: "Please wait a few minutes. Mr. Blank is just finishing shaving and wants to go down town." And the stage waited.
The multitudes of apartments that are springing up on all sides are leaving but little of old Morrisania itself. On the high ground west of Webster Avenue still stands the great square mansion of William H. Morris, erected in 1816. Just to the east is a smaller stone erection said to have been a school house. Almost on the same sites stood the old wooden house. built by James Morris, with dormer windows, whose date was about 1795, while a short distance to the west is one of the quaintest
Wm. H. Morris Mansion, Morrisania
of structures, the Morris farm house, built about 1792. The caretaker of the large mansion told me that ever since an ocea sion when burglars broke into it, there has been an underground communication between the two, to be used in ease of sudden emergency.
As we have seen, the "New Village" was sold by Gouver .. neur Morris the Second to a company of prospector, for about $34,600. Of the original 200 acres purchased, forty-three were takeu for streets and avennes, the remainder being divided into 16; lots of one acre cach, thus averaging about ten dollars for
cach city lot. Quite a difference from to-day's prices. tut ffy- seven years have wrought miraeles.
What was known as the old Georgi house, that stood on file Morris farm before it was divided into acre plots, was located just west of Fordham (Third) Avenne between 162d and Its i Streets. I just remember seeing it partially burned when it faced on 163d Street or old First Street. Afterwards i was moved so as to front on 162d Street. Originally it was tied as a hotel, facing the old race track of the Morrises. traces of which were visible in 1849. About seven years ago it was tors down to make room for a row of gigantic apartment houses. .
Morris Farm House
Another old house, the fifth to be built in the Village of Morrisania, just south of the Georgi house, was erected of ::: late De Witt C. Mott. Formerly standing at the southwest corner of Third ( Fordham) Avenue and 162d Street . Univ Place), its situation, far below the present level of the avenue, showed what the early grade used to be. It used to stani c: "Lot No. 2 of the Village of Morrisania" and has since been moved around the corner and now fronts on road Street. stix being occupied by Mr. Mott's son. Frank P. Mott, Superstens- ent of Station R., N. Y. P. O., who has lived there for fry-Mix years.
On "Lot No. 1," a great change has taken place. The new Court House is taking the place of the ancient "Hamine: s Hotel." a typical country tavern half a century ago, with its of porch in front for guests to sit and rest in old-fashioned. ind. seated chairs. To the west of this, beyond what was known as the "Dry Bridge," stood the old "Town Hall," although :. : of the true limits of Morrisania. It has recently been :.: down and a new police station has been created on the site.
Almost opposite, the De Graaf or Ingersoll residence. :::: about fifty years ago, stands on the lofty heights of Grove itt .. From its roof the whole surrounding country could be seen. including the famous Crystal Palace in the far distan: Forty- second Street. On the north side of 163d Street the Schnur: Club House is a conspicuous landmark, built in the early Afties It was formerly the handsome residence of George Hand, and afterwards the home of Judge Welsh.
In the rural district of West Morrisania, the well kass Robert Bonner, proprietor of the "New York Ledge: " Had :.: ' home, and in his baru: was stalled the famous racer 1 :
Mr. Bonner, however, dol not fancy the location. a: : : offered the place for sale, sending an advertisement to the New York Sun." Mr. Dana, the echtor, replied that he @ #: :: print it on his advertising pages, but would like to the
38
HISTORY OF BRONX BOROUGH
editorial columns, and pay well for it, too. It ran in part as follows :
"I hereby offer for sale my country seat at West Morrisania. where I have lived for the last three summers and do not think 1 can live much longer. Now. I offer for sale a real curiosity --- something rare -- the exact spot where fever and ague may be found. I warrant it to be there. Three of my children have it. my gardener has it, my groom has the sure symptoms, and I have a sufficient inkling of it myself. Besides the fever and agne, the estate consists of a fine double house surrounded by trees. These trees furnish a fine harbor for mosquitoes that do not seem sufficiently affected by the fever and ague to prevent their biting. I bought it to please my wife; I leave it to please the whole family. Terms cash. I am afraid any security on it would get the fever and ague and become shaky. I want to get away as fast as Dexter can carry me. P. S .- The town anthori- ties are making alterations in the street adjoining. If they drain the place as well as they do the pockets of the landholders. it may become healthy !"
A little north of the limits of Morrisania Village, on the westerly side of Boston Road, opposite Bristow Street, stood an old house, the wing to which was attached when the thorough- fare was widened. This wing formerly stood on the other side of Boston Road, just this side of the Southern Boulevard, and is said to have been the dwelling. in Revolutionary days, of a
spy, who in the garb of a British peddler, passed at will across the English lines, thu, gaining valuable information to the Ameri- can cause. A short distance beyond, on the southwest corner of the Southern Boulevard and the Boston Road, is still to be seen another ancient home, the old Hunt house, where Washington is reported to have passed one night, evidently in close confer- ence with the spy, whose identity was known to him alone. 1 was recently driving near by with an old resident who had not been in the district for years.
"What has become of the old Spy House?" he asked. anxiously, as we passed the spot. I told him it had been moved about a quarter of a mile further south.
"I am so glad it is still in existence," was his reply. "I could not bear to think of anything happening to my friend the old Spy House." And only recently this old landmark has been torn down, revealing a mass of hand-split shingles used in its construction.
There is a rumor that, when the early residents of Morris- ania became especially elated over the future of their village, the large bull frogs in the marshes on the west side of the railroad, would seem to croak out loud: "A BIG THING! A BIG THING! A BIG THING!" But when their spirits fell, and some of the settlers threatened to return to the city in disgust, once more would be heard the voices of the frogs. saying: "I DON'T SEE IT! I DON'T SEE IT! I DON'T SEE IT."
Old Lady Washington Engine Company, loath Street near Washington Avenue
THE BLUE BRIDGE, BRONX PARK
5
JAMES BUCKHOUT
..
CHAPTER XV
WEST FARMS AND THE BRONX RIVER
West Farms-The Bronx River-Anecdotes -- The Walker Mansion -- The De Lancey Block House-Uncle Daniel Mapes' Temperance House -The Old Ford -The Hassock Meadow-Old Patents
Bronx Park, West Farms and the Bronx River are so closely interwoven that it is hard to dissociate them, one from the other.
In earlier days Boston Road did not enter West Farms by
One wag fitly remarked, a number of years ago, that he was not only in the country, but in the sleepy old town of West Farms, whose inhabitants had been stationary for a hundred years, never forgetting anything and never learning anything new.
-
12
1.
1 1
New Beck Memorial Church, West Farms
the same direct route that is used now. Just beyond the car barns it turned to the north, following the general line of the present Bryant Street until Tremont Avenue was reached, when it branched to the right towards West Farms centre.
Many of the Morrisanians were declared to have been up and a the city in the morning and at their places of business before those drowsy West Farmers had done yawning after their firs: morning rap! Whenever their business demanded that they
42
HISTORY OF BRONX BOROUGH
should go to West Farms, they always felt a sense of drowsi- ness come over them on their return, with an irresistible desire to go to bed. Indeed some joker has ventured to say that Washi- ington Irving really wrote: "West Farms" instead of "Sleepy Hotles" in his tale of Rip Van Winkle, and that the substitu- two of "Sleepy Hollow" was simply a mistake of the printer!
After many windings, the River Bronx narrows down and passes through West Farms. Numerous tales are told about tin- river, which, were it not for the mill-dams, would be noth- mg in a narrow silvery stream. The poet Coleridge styles it the noble Bronx." We hear of an order coming from the British War Office, directing its warships to proceed at once up the Bronx and attack the Yankee ships supposed to be in iding above. How far they got is not known, for a tug ha- difficulty, even at high tide, in reaching West Farm. Another story that is too good to be missed is the report that an Eng- glish commander sent to his home office the dispatch: "We have crossed the Bronx without the loss of a single man !" Why, there are plenty of places where one can easily ford the stream by jumping from stone to stone!
One of the earliest landmarks of West Farms was the great Walker mansion, north of the West Farms public school. It is now destroyed, but in its prime it was described as "an old-fashioned, English-looking place, with its tall shrubbery of venerable box and massive hedge rows." Indeed the school house was built on the site of the apple orchard of the Walker family, while the timbers of the old mansion are declared to have been hewn of live oak. "In front still stand, in towering majesty, the two finest elms that Westchester County ever pro- duced." Gone is the old house, and only one venerable elm is left, now reduced to a bare skeleton, to guard the spot with jealous care.
There was a British block house about on the site of the present "Peabody Home." It was erected by Colonel De Lancey as a protection for his outposts at Morrisania, and until the unexpected arrival of Aaron Burr with an efficient force, had withstood all attacks of the Americans. Though but twenty-one years of age at that time, Burr was appointed by Washington and rendered incalculable service in suppressing lawlessness in the Neutral Ground. At all hours of the day and night he was on hand, accomplishing wonders in his line, so much so that Parton wrote: "The effects produced were magical. Not an- other house was plundered, not another family alarmed while Colonel Burr commanded in the Westchester regions. The mys- tery and swiftness of the detection, the rigor and fairness with which the marauders were treated, overawed the men whom three campaigns of lawless warfare had corrupted, and re- stored confidence to the people who had passed their lives in ter- tor."
The greatest achievements of Colonel Burr's men was the complete annihilation of the De Lancey Block House at West Farms, "a feat performed, like Wayne's storming of Stony Point, without firing a musket." At two o'clock in the morning Burr arrived with his followers, sending ahead forty men, "why rushed past the sentinels, placed the ladders against the fort, mounted them, hurled the combustibles with slow matches attached into the port-holes, and then threw the hand- elenade, inside. Almost instantly the fort was on fire, and every moin, except a few who escaped, surrendered. Not an \merkan was injured."
Another interesting landmark of West Farms has recently i on need to a new locality. This was the original building i the Peabody home, on the easterly side of Roston Road at the comer of Clover Street. Its sinall windows and long
piazzas all betokened that it had been a hostelry in by-gone days, and so it was -- "Uncle Daniel Mapes' Temperance House." I think. however, that the same old house altered and com-
id -
Uncle Daniel Mapes' Temperance House, West Farms
pletely changed is standing a few blocks to the west, while a fine new brick building has been erected for the Peabody Home.
About two blocks north, Kingsbridge Road joins Boston Road, while close by a bridge leads across the Bronx just south of the falls. How many are there crossing the span at Tre- mont Avenue, amid the confusion of trolley cars, who realize that this bridge near Kingsbridge Road was once the only way to reach Westchester and points beyond? In the woods south of the falls can be traced the route of the disused roadway that crossed the Bronx by ford at this point. In other words, sup- pose we lived in the old, old times on Manhattan Island and wished to travel to Westchester, we should have to journey slow- ly up the whole length of the island, cross the King's Bridge or perhaps the Farmer's Bridge, and then branch southeast, up Breakneck Hill, through Fordham, down to West Farms, and cross the Bronx by this still rural lane before we reached our destination !
Somewhat to the west of the old village of West Farms, and south of the present Tremont Avenue, lay the historic "Hassock Meadow," mentioned in many of the early deeds. By the filling in of the new Crotona Parkway, which adjoins the Southern Boulevard towards the cast, the greater part of this quaint meadow has disappeared. We find it also mentioned as
Johnson's Tavern, West Farms
one of the boundaries of the "West Farms" in the early deal of 100%, in which Edward Jessup and John Richardson, two of this borough's first landed proprietors, purchased from the Indians
43
HISTORY OF BRONX BOROUGH
a large tract of land, afterwards called West Farms, and de- scribed in the records in the office of the Secretary of State at Albany as follows :
"Westchester, March the 12th, 1664.
"These may certify whom it may concern that wee. SHAW- NEROCKETT, WAPPAMOE. TUCKORE, WAWAPE- COCK, CAPPAKAS, QUANUSCOE, SHEQUISKE, PASSA- . CHIEM and HARRAWOCKE have alened and sold unto Edward Jessup and John Richardson, both of the place aforesaid, a certain tract of land, bounded on the east by the River Aque- hung or Bronckx, to the midst of the river; on the northward by the trees markt and by a. piece of Hassock Meadow; west- ward by a little brook called Sackwrahung; southward by the sea, with a neck of land called Quinahung, with all the mead- ows, uplands, trees and whatsoever else besides be upon ye said parcel of lands . . . . quietly to possess, enjoy the same from us our heires and successors . . . and for their cattle to range in the Wood so Farre as they please.
"Wee have sett to our hands, the day and yeare above written.
Wappamoc,
Shawnerockett,
Wawapekock,
Tuckore,
Shaquiske,
Passachem,
Harrawocke,
Cappakkas.
Quanuscoe,
Signed in presence of,
Edward Waters, Richard Ponson,
Nathan Bayly.
(Their marks were set, to.")
Oid Spy House near West Farms
In order to make matters sure. this old deed was two years later confirmed by two patents, obtained by Jessup and Richard- son, separately, that of the former, secured from Governor Nichols, reading in part in these words :
"Richard Nichols, Esq., Governor under his Royal High- nesse, James, Duke of York, etc., to all his Territoryes in America, To all whom these Presents shall come Sendeth Greet- ing :
Whereas there is a certaine Parcell or Tract of Land within this Government . . . there follows a description, in which the Hasseock Meadow plays a prominent part) . . . Know Yee that by vertue of the Commission and Authority given unto me by his Royal Higlmesse, the Duke of Yorke, I have thought fitt to rati- fy Confirme and Grant unto Edward Jessop aforesaid . . . the Moyety or one halfe of all the Woods. Meadows, Pastures or Marshes thereunto belonging . . .
"Given under my hand and Scale at Fort James in New Yorke the 25th day of Aprill, in the 18th yeare of his Majesties Reigne, and in the Yeare of our Lord God, 1666.
RICHARD NICHOLLS."
Hassock Meadow
As for the white oak tree, 'ye corner tree of Jessup and Richardson," which marked the extreme northwestern corner of the Patent, it is thought to have stood just south of the Home for Incurables, on the east side of the present Third Avenue, between Tremont and Fordham. It is mentioned in the Indian deed to Lewis Morris and marked the important point where the three patents of Morrisania, Fordham and that of Jessup and Richardson joined. On an old map, this section south of the Home for Incurables, and just below where the old Quarry Road climbed up the steep rocky hill, is styled the "Oak Tree Plot," showing that possibly the celebrated oak tree stood with- in its limits.
In referring to the "Hassock Meadow," one who has lived for many years in the "West Farms" once told nie: "I thought they would never be able to fill in Tremont Avenue through this Hassock Meadow, as load after load disappeared in its swampy grasp. And as for the Hassocks, there they are to this day so plentiful that I told some one that he had better kneel down and say his prayers on them !"
The east branch of the Subway terminates abruptly at 18oth Street, which also marks the southerly point of Bronx Park. About this neighborhood are grouped a number of highly inter- esting sites that may more appropriately be described under the heading of Bronx Park.
THE HEMLOCK GROVE BRONX PARK
CHAPTER XVI
BRONX PARK
De Lancey's Mills-Lydig's Mills-De Lancey's Pine-Johnson's Tavern-The Zoological Park-Bronxdale-The Lorillard Estate-The Botanical Gardens
The very first striking spectacle that greets the visitor to this charming locality is the silvery stream that dashes over the embankment just above the old fording place, and about on a line with Istst Street.
On the cast side of the river, close to this spot were all the lands of the famous De Lanceys, the mills themselves stand-
Jenny
Lydig's Mills
ing nearly opposite the foot of the present 18Ist Street. No re- mains of them, unfortunately. are now visible, as they fell a vic- tim to the flames about 1845, being entirely of wood. save for the foundations. Even the stones of this foundation were washed away by the rush of water when the dam broke, as it has done several times since the fire. De Lancey's Mills were comprised under one building, and have been described as both a "neigh- borhood" saw and grist mill. They were run by "overhead" water power, being so close to the dam.
On the other or west side of the river, a short distance further from the dam, were the old Lydig's Mills. The build- ings were constructed about a year after the fire of 1845. and a little further down the stream than De Lancey's Mills. This re- quired a race-way to bring the water to the three overhead water-wheels, which were afterwards replaced in part by tur- bine wheels. When this property was taken as a portion of Bronx Park the mills were torn down, but the foundations still exist, and a view of the falls through the archiway-now ruined- formed one of the prettiest vistas in the whole of Bronx Park.
Lydig's Mills, we are told, formed also one building. and ground grist for the whole neighborhood, and also grain brought from the then distant City of New York by means of sloops up the Bronx River.
Although both De Lancey's and Lydig's Mille have vanish- ed, there still remains one relic of the past, close to the she of the De Lancey mansion, which stood on the cast shore of the Bronx and is said to have been the great rendezvous of Loyal- ists living in the region. One of the De Lancey family, Peter
by name, lived at West Farms and became known by the title of "Peter of the Mills." Among his sons was James, high sheriff from 1770 to 1777, and the famous Colonel of the West- chester Light Horse, also known as "De Lancey's Horse" that proved such a terror to the Americans of the vicinity. After the Revolution, when the patriots reigned supreme, he moved to Nova Scotia, dying there as a refugee.
Another son was Oliver De Lancey, also of West Farms, a lieutenant in the English Navy, who resigned his command sooner than fight against his own land, and after returning to this country, lived the rest of his life at Westchester.
The famous relic of the past to which we have just referred, is the sturdy De Lancey pine, a veritable monarch of the forest, towering to a height of over one hundred and fifty feet, and quite dwarfing all its surrounding brothers. To all appear- ances it is almost as robust and strong as when, in the days long gone by, Colonel De Lancey built under the very shadow of its immense branches that elegant mansion of his, now long since razed to the ground.
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