History of Oneida County, New York : with illustrations and biographical sketches of some of its prominent men and pioneers, Part 150

Author: Durant, Samuel W
Publication date: 1878
Publisher: Philadelphia : Everts & Fariss
Number of Pages: 920

USA > New York > Oneida County > History of Oneida County, New York : with illustrations and biographical sketches of some of its prominent men and pioneers > Part 150

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" We landed half after sevco nt the largest and most westerly island, towed the canos un shore, and walked by an Indian path in the woods.

"This islaod might in ancient days have been the happy sent of a goddess, in the middle age that of a magician, or a fairy's residence io the timos of chivalry. Proceeding on one after nuother through the stately trees, through which we perceived yet the Inst glances of the setting suo, we were at once, niter & few rods, surprised with an enchanting view, of which it is not in my power to give you an ade- quate description. All that the poets did eing of the gardens of Alcinons, all the scenery of those of Arneida, 80 highly decorated by Virgil and Ariosto, could scarce have made upon me, who was capti- vated noswares and bewildered, a more deep impression than this spectacle of nature. We did see here a luxuriant soil in ite virgin bloom ; we did sce industry crowned with blessing ; we did see here what great things a frail mao can perform if he is willing. It seemed a paradise which Happiness had chosen for her residence. Our path, gradually increasing io brendth, did lend us to the circumference of & cloared circle, surrounded with lime-trees; at both sides of the path was planted Indian corn, already grown from four to five feet, while a few plants towards the middle of this patch were six feet long, and this in the middle of June. A small cottage of a few feet aqunro stood nearly in the centre of this epot. It had & bark covering, and to the left of it a similar one, three-fourths uncovered and appro- printed for a kitchen. Here was the residence of Mr. and Madame Des Wattines, with their three children.

"They lived there without servants, without neighbors, without a cow; they lived, as it were, separated from the world; Des Wattines sallicd forward and gave ns n cordini welcome in his desmenes. The well-educated man was easily recognized through his sloven dress. Ragged as he appeared, without n cost or hat, his manners were those of a gentleman, his address that of one who had seco the higher cir- cles of civilized life. A female, from whose remaining beauties might bs conjectured how many had been tarnished by adversity, wns sit- ting in the entrance of this cot. She was dressed in white, io & short gown and petticoat, garnished with the same stuff; hør chestnut brown

bair flung back in ringlets over her shoulders, her eyes fixed on her darling Cnmille, a native of this isle, at her breast; while two chit- dren, etunding at each side of her, played in her lap. Her appenr- ance was nmiuble indeed ; n wild imagination might have lost herself and considered the wenry, toiling Des Wattinee as the magician who kept this beautiful woman in slavery, but cre soon the charm dwindled away. Esteem for the man filled our bosom, and when you consid- ered how indefatignhly he must have exerted himself, what sacrifices he must have mnde, what hardships endured to render ber situation comfortable nod rear rosea for her ou this island, su deep in the west- ero wilderness, theo, notwithstanding all the foibles which a fastidious, cool observer might discover at his fireside, in a character and con- duct ns that of Des Wattines, he becomes an object of admiration. I, at least, gazed at him io wonder. Des Wattines introduced us to his spouse. She received us with that ensy politeness which well-eduented people seldom lose entirely, and urged, with so much grace, to sit down, that we could not refuse it without incivility. This couple was now in the second year on this island, and all the improvements which we had seen were the work of Dea Wattines' hands exclusively.

"Our refreshment was s dish of tea, or rather their usual beverage fram Venus' hair, which she has collected and dried, palatable enough indeed when sweetened with sugar. It was growing dark before we could be persuaded to leave our new companions, who insisted on our staying with them that night, which we declined reluctantly, but en- gaged ourselves to return in the morning and to partake of their breakfast.

" Both had gained a claim to this sudden affectionate attachment. He, initiated in the manners of the fashionable world of the old conti- nent, with a tincture of belles-lettres, with that sprightliness and versatility of mind, characterizing

"' Ce peuple aimable, ami des arte, Tantôt grave, tantôt futile, Par cent tourbillons emporté, Agitant d'une main legère Les hochete de la nouveauté; Frivole et gaï par caractère Et raisonueur par vanité.'

"She so artlesa, so graceful, so fair ; who might have extorted com- pliance where & world of meo could not prevail ; could it be else, or Eurupeans not insensible to the pleasures of society, and separated from those dear to their hearts, must have been gratified with the vicinity and courtesy of this couple.

" Few trunks, few chairs, an oval table, two nent beds, was the principal furniture; & double-barreled gun, a pretty collection of books, chiefly modera literature, in the French language, the chief ornaments of the cottage.

" At our returo to our encampment our tent was pitched, the fire blazing, our boys snoring, and we, too, soon fell asleep. I awoke with daylight, and made the circuit of this fortunnte istand. When I returned to the place of our landing I crossed the corn plantation and went on, to contemplate more carefully what might have escaped my sight the preceding evening.

"Des Wattines bad laid out behind the cottage a pretty garden, divided by s walk in the middle. The two foremost beda, and rabats, against the house, were covered with a variety of flowers; sweet- williams, lady-elippers, with a few decaying hyacinths. At the right hand were bush-beans, large kidney-benns, at poles ; enbbage, turnips, peas, salade, with that strong-scented herbage which we call keovel (chervil), and which you purchase so dear at your arrival in New York, although its culinary use in enkes and soup was then yet un- known there. At the left, watermelons, cantelopes, cucumbers, per- sil, string-pens, with a few of the winter provisions, all in grent for- wardness, with few or no weeds nmong them; behind the garden a small nursery of apple-trees, which was closed with a patch of lux- uriant potatoes ; and these, ngain, were joined both sides by whent, describing a semioircle around it.

" All this was.the workmanship of Des Wattines' industry ; without any assistance, not eveo a plow or harrow, having no other tools but nn axe and an hoe. It was true it was all in miniature, but it required, nevertheless, an indefatigable industry to be able to necomplish all this to such a degree of perfection. When I approached the cottage Des Wattines was yet employed in dragging heavy wood for fuel towards it, which he chopt and split in a short time, and in less yet the fire was blazing, when he came with a oat6sh of sixteen pounds for our breakfast. While he was busily engaged in its preparation,

* Penct.

553

HISTORY OF ONEIDA COUNTY, NEW YORK.

madame appeared, brought him a handful persil, and dressed the table. The table-cloth was of nent damask, a few silver spoons aod forks, the plates and dishes cream-colored,-remnants yet of their former affluence; while the contentment legible in her eyes spread a fresh glow over her countenance, and made a deep impression on our hearts, and whetted our already keen appetite. De Zeng was mean- while arrived, and complimented madame with his usual politeness. Salade, roasted and stewed fish, well baked, warm bread of Indiaa corn, with good Hyzan tea, which she accepted from os with kind- ness, soon filled the table. I was seldom better regaled. The fish was delicious; the sprightly conversation gave n fresh relish to cvery mouthful we tasted ; and we might have desired to be inhabitants of that enchanted spot, had it been in our power to withdraw our atten- tion from the hardships to which they were exposed, and banish the idea that they seldom could obtain anything else but fish.

"You know, my dear sir, how all significant it is toujours de per- drix ! Although the gay conviviality of Des Wattines drove for a while this gloomy thought away, it could not prevent its return, while now and then a downcast lock,-how suddenly it was relieved !- on in- volantary, half-suppressed sigh, gave a new poignancy to the bitter- ness of this feeling. Des Wattines, even assisted by De Zeng, ridi- culed in vain similar reveries and phantoms ; she smiled, and its force was blunted-ao island! in Oneida Lake! The want of all society whatever, except, perhaps, a solitary visit from-a bear ! the want of many of the necessaries of life, and that, too, in her situation, when her Camille was bora ! the imperious necessity to leave, from time to time, such an amiable, delicate woman with three children, helpless, sometimes days together, alene oo this island, as often Des Wattines weot to the Oneida Creek for corn. Was it possible that similar reflections should not have marred the mest tumultuous joy ? I will not deny that my spirits were damped, and my jocundity was now and then deeply tinged with melancholy.

" Des Wattines inquired in the boundaries of our journey 'te Lake Ontario,' 'and in what manner?' 'Well, with our canoc,' was the reply. He sprang from his chuir and stared us folly in the face with n ' Par Dien ! with your canoe,-to Lake Ontario ? wanny ! prenez le batern, take it, major; it is nt your service, prenez le.' We did not hesitate long to accept his offer. We might have brought our adventu- rous expedition to a happy end ; it was unquestionable that we might effect it with far greater safety in a bateau. We soon had our baggage transported in it, left our canoe behind at the island, with our frying- pan, through the slothfulness of our hands. We started thus on Satur- day merning about ten. Towards the south the Caooserago Creek, rich ia fish, falls in the lake. The bottom of the lake at the south side is a grey stone, which extends to the shore and seems divided in oblong squares. There are appearances, and very strong indeed, of rock-iron, which ore in some parts is extending for a considerable length on the shore, and, although we had proofs not its reality into question, we could not ascertain it. The land had again a very prom- ising aspect at some distance from the shore, and shall, I doubt aot, he transformed within a few years in productive farms. We arrived at Fort Brewerton about noon, situated at the northwestern corner of the lake. Here is a location of about four hundred neres, obtained by Mr. Kaats during the late British war. It was now inhabited by two families, viz., that of one Captain Bingham and one Mr. Simonds, the latter from Caughnawagha. They had rented it at £20 a year, and desired to make a purchase of it, hat Mr. Kaats, acquainted with its value, had constantly declined their offers.

"I was highly gratified with excellent bread and butter, feasted on milk for my beverage, and purchased two piots of it, which we carried t, our bateau. The situation alone renders this spet of considerable consequence, and its importance must be heightened as soon as the back lands are settled, and the navigation of the western waters shall be carried to that summit, to which it eventually must ascend. The soil is clay, of which a large quantity of brick was made; somewhat further a sandy loam was covered with stately trees,-ouk, then beech, ash, and maple.

" We arrived ia the Onondago River, which, even as the Fish Creek, has generally very steep banks,-more so, however, at the west side. We passed some piaes, and through our unexpertness, large rifts, with difficulty. It was said here was an aocieat Iadian ecl-weir, by which this natural obstruction in the bed of the river had been inerensed. The stream was otherwise very placid, and cur progress, of course, easy. To the west, joining Kants' location, is an excellent tract of land, the property of Mr. L'Home Dieu; to the south the military

lands, chiefly a valuable, fruitful soil. A sudden shower compelled us to land ahout three miles below Fort Brewerton, where we encamped that night, being resolved, if the rain might abate, to take a view of the land.

"The soil is rich, with a grent variety of Invariaot treen; a black leam, with a mixture of fine sand of the same color, many inches deep, then clay; the timber majestie, spreading its branches and foliage ; beech, cak, maple, black ash, with here and there a pins and hemlock. I had ventured-rather imprudently, perhaps-a few miles in the woods; the beauty of the spot had lured me deeper and decper, till at last I knew net from where I came or whither I went. The sun being set, I had lost this unerring guide ; my only refuge Was Bow my pocket-compass, by which I again discovered the course which I had to steer towards the river. This, nevertheless, would have brought me two miles below my encampment had not De Zeng, apprebensive of this issue, sent out the boys to hunt the straggler.

"Next day, about three in the afternoon, we reached Three Rivers Point, eighteen miles from Fort Brewerton ; here join the Onondago and Seneca Rivers, that of Oswego flowing to Lake Ontario in a north westerly direction. One Barker lived at the east side of this point, whose chief employment was to conduct the bateaox over the falls in O.wego River. He might have been independent had be possessed virtue and strength of mind sufficient to take advantage of his situation. Every bateau bound to or coming from the Genesees, Ooondago, Oswego, Cataraqui, and Niagara stops here, and their crews would often deem it a happiness could they there be supplied with refreshments of bread, butter, and milk, of rum and gin. IIe koew scarce the first, so seldom did he see these articles, and the latter he wanted for himself exclusively.

"This spet is a reservation of Church land for the benefit of the district ; and why not, my dear sir, are not by this great State a few millions of their uasold lands devoted and appropriated to the main- tenance of the clergy, without any distinction of sects, so the new settlers would not be burthened above what they are able to bear, and the worthy clergy would not often be reduced to beggary ? A small patch of cern premised a good crop, and a similar of summer wheat, which he said to have sown the first of May, had branched out its large ears.

" At the south west side of Oswego is the valuable tract of L. Ganse- voort, with here and there a cleared spot ; and another in no respect, except extension, inferior to this, is a location of one thousand acres of L'nome Dica, to the north of the Onondago, opposite to the southern point of the Oswego.

" We hired Barker at five shillings a day to bring us over the fall and stay with us till our return. We started from the point at four. We distinguished at a considerable distance the grambling coise of the water on the first and second rift. Near the first is a remarkable good mill-seat. Herc were the Onoudugos collected in large numbers; some fishing, some smoking in their huts, others from time to time arriving and passing us ia their bark canoes,-with much art con- structed, so light and easily manageable that a squaw with her little daughter gained on us, and left us soon behind her by her velocity. We concluded to encaiop about ten iniles from Three Rivers Point, opposite to a handsome island in the Oswego River. The pickerel eften weigh here thirty pounds ; pike is of a similar size; we took a catfish of four span and a half; perch, too, of which we obtained u few, is here in abundance.

" At a short distance from the river is a good fertile soil; further, of a rich clay ; the timber pretty similar to that we had seen before. We started again pretty carly on Monday morning, and arrived at the falls, twelve miles from the point. This indeed was again a very interesting sight. You would he enraptured with it. Could I borrow and then make use of Vernet's pencil, so that I could do justice to the scenery, I would offer you a grand tablean. At the south side is a farm of three hundred acres, of one Mr. Valekenberg, whe intends to build him this year a saw- and grist-mill. It is a noble spot for constructions of this kind.

" Here we ualoaded our bateau, dragged it about a hoadred .rods over the carrying-place, and there, below the falls, committed her again to its proper ciement. Ia a few moments our baggage was again on board, and we in the bateau. Here Barker did give us a proof of his dexterity and alertness ; with a rapidity which dimmed the sight, with an incredible swiftness, we passed over stones, between rocks and islands. as an arrow on the wing, and lost the falls out of our sight and hearing before we could reflect to turn our eyes

554

HISTORY OF ONEIDA COUNTY, NEW YORK.

once more towards these or examine our process with coolness. At twelve we arrived at Oswego, yet secured by a British garrison, not- withstanding it ought to have been surrendered many years before to cur geverament, in conformity to the treaty of peace. But I should not have dared to assert that from our side all its articles had been religiously observed. If so, nevertheless, then our national forbear- ance was a rare example in a republican government.

" It is time, my dear sir, to take some repose; I at least am in want of it, and the generous cannot be lack in courtesy. In my next I shall bring you to the limits of the land of promise. I will not leave you there, but, depend upon it, you will perceive how I am then speeding. as a dart from the bow, towards my beloved family.

"Adio. Yours, &e."

" KINGSTON, 10th August, 1792.

"MY DEAD Sin,-Two fortifications, commanding a considerable extent of water and land, attracted our notice. That to the south, constructed in former days by the British, was now chiefly demol- ished ; that to the north, fortified by the French, and conquered on them by the British during the Seven Years' war, is yet garrisoned by them, although within our lines. Its whole defence, however, is but one company, which could not make any resistance, as all the fortifications are so decayed that it would oct be a great achievement to drive over these ramparts with wagon and horses. Neither does it seem the intention to make any repairs, from the consciousness, no doubt, that their surrender is long since finally concluded, and only delayed co acconat of some trifliog formalities at this or the other side of the Atlantic. I saw, nevertheless, in this paltry, despicable fortress seven barrels of salt, takeo from an American hateau by an American runaway, now a British custom-house officer. It is, for- sooth, a port of entry, which a sturdy Yankee might pass without a fee. This practice could not be continued if the whole country was settled, even if the post was not surrendered, as Americans could not, neither would, bear much longer such an indignity. Neither would a large force be required to set this garrison at defiance. An act of hostility, however, would in the present situation be an act of impra- dence, of rashness, as it might clog our government's negotiations; and the day is now fast approaching that it shall be peacefully surrendered, and the American stripes unfurled on this bulwark,- when the British leopard may return with honor to his Cacadian den.

" The commanding officer, a Rhode Island man by birth, Captain Wickhamo, treated us with a great deal of politeness, and regretted to be unable to offer us refreshments, as the Canadian sloop, which was for these, was not yet returned, but every hour expected.

" This frank acd fearless veterao was not at all alarmed at our ap- pearance, or suspected that we might come to discover and betray the nakedness of the country and fort entrusted to his charge. Ile en- quired carelessly in the objcet of our expeditico, and made ns an offer of his aid whenever he might be of any service to us; and he did so effectually. It was through his management that the British inter- preter, thoroughly acquainted with Lake Ontario and its shores, agreed to conduct us to the Salmon Creek.

" This Mr. Price spent a part of his youth with Onondago Iodians. He was in the beginning discreet enough, and civil through the whole of this excursion, but his society, otherwise far from indifferent, lost a great part of its worth by his incessant swearing ; it was, indeed, if ho deemed it an accomplishment. This was a pity, indeed, as he was blessed by a bountiful God with variens rare codowments, a sound judgment, a lively imagination, undaunted courage, with a frame of hody so strong that it baffled all fatigues ; so handsome that he did not want to stoop whenever he wished to conquer. He was an in- genious mechanic, indeed, excelling to whatever he beaded his versu- tile genius. He made an excellent violin for one Mr. Gordon, an European, who was often pleased to say in its praise, 'that in Canada it might be offered for a Cremonese.'

" This Mr. Price was our Palinurus as soon we had entered our bateau, which was about four in the afternoon ; our raw hands rowed ; Price was at the helm. We did sit on the middle bench ; ere long we reached deep water. Lake Ontario resembles rather an open sea than an inland reservoir of water. You look io vain for land to rest your eye upon. We arrived with a fresh breeze at Four-Miles Point, hoisted now our sail, passed it, and obtained then a view of a range of perpendicular rocks, which rendered a landing impossible and dangerous to approach them nearer. I cannot say that I was charmed

at first with this prospect, and yet it was imposing enough ; but I was become too much accustomed to peaceful rural scenes to become at once enamored with objects of grandeur, risen and protruded by the woods, the waves, and the rocks. Not one of our argonauts or he seemed pleased with the trip; what signified rowing when we might sail? Spread the canvas! How merrily glides our bateau over the waves! Bernhard, one of our hands, boasted on his seamanship and experience, He doubted not or he might bring a vessel in safety to the harbor ; he had seen the narrows, between Long Island and Staten Islaod. Price swore that he was tired with steering, and called, with another curse, a pilot to take care of the helm. Now be placed him- self between us and smoked his pipe. Our new steersman pointed every time towards shore, which he as often was compelled by a general command to steer more towards the middle, as we were now between the tremendous rocks at Four- and Nine-Miles Point. The wind sud- denly inereased; our pilot turned again towards the shore, and was anew, for a moment, hy Price's tremendous curses, overawed to stcer once more to deep water. But his increasing fear,-not longer within his control,-a desaltory, animated conversation between De Zeng, Price, and myself, permitting to follow the bias of his alarming impulse, and a pretty rongh westero wind, carried us, within a few moments, at a distance of a few rods only towards these horrible, perpendicular rocks, of which some seemed suspended over the watery surface. We were now in an imminent danger ; a shipwreck, by which the bateau must have been dashed in pieces, secmed inevit- able, and no lives might have been saved except, perhaps, that of Price. At once a loud, pityful cry, 'Hold towards shore!' struck our cars. Price did tear the oar from Barker's hand, commanded to lower the sail and bring out the oars; but all in vaio. The pilot wept and cried, 'Hold towards shore, Mr. Price ! good Mr. Price! push on shore-I pray God Almighty-dear Mr. Price, set on shore !' Priee's reply was, 'God damn yon, raseal ! dowo the sail ! out the oor! ohey or sink !' One of our boys sat nearly lifeless in the bow ; the other near the mast, pale as deatb, with staring eyes and with opened mouth. The danger inercased to appearance; the surge rose higher nad higher ; our united strength and weight, viz., De Zeng's and mine, were scaree sufficient to prevent the bateau turning upside-down; twice did I actually see a great part of the bottom, twice I did see it naked,-one-half inch more and we had been lost. At last the sail was struck, the car out, and we were only in part exposed to the first shock, while Price, whe remained calm and alert, succeeded in forcing the prow into the waves, and bringing us again in safety in deep water. When the danger was past the terror of our crew abated, and I praised in my soul the Almighty, as I do at this instant, for our hair-breadth escape.#

" Price remained now at the helio, and we proceeded on our course with a steady breeze very pleasantly, except that De Zeng and I were thoroughly soaked over the right side from top to toe, while our three hirelings grinned that they were yet dry. This was our reward for our arduous struggle to avert a peril which threatened to overwhelm us all.

"We entered, notwithstanding the foaming breakers, a creek of the middle size, three miles to the south of the Little Salmon Creek, towed our bateau in an inlet, and chose the heights for our eocamp- ment. Before our tent was pitched and our fire in full blaze, Price and Barker returned with a large cel and huge catfish, which wero more than sufficient for our supper.

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History of Oneida County, New York : with illustrations and biographical sketches of some of its prominent men and pioneers, Part 150

Author: Durant, Samuel W Publication date: 1878 Publisher: Philadelphia : Everts & Fariss Number of Pages: 920

Author: Durant, Samuel W
Publication date: 1878
Publisher: Philadelphia : Everts & Fariss
Number of Pages: 920