USA > New York > Pioneer history of the Holland Purchase of western New York : embracing some account of the ancient remains > Part 53
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Col. James M'Mahan, from Northumberland county, Pennsyl- vania, was the pioneer settler of Chautauque. He had commenced negotiations for the purchase of a township, in a personal visit to this region soon after the surveying commenced. In September, 1802, he contracted for the purchase of T. 4, R. 14, which included the mouth of Chautauque creek, and site of the village of Westfield. Although he first settled there, and built a mill, it would seem that the land was never conveyed. His location was transferred to T. 3. R. 15, now town of Ripley, where he purchased a tract of eight or nine thousand acres, and became the founder of what was long after known as M'Mahan's Settlement.
In some published accounts, which are noticed in the preface, it
NOTE .- Hon. Daniel G. Garnsey, a former Representative in Congress from the district composed of Chantauque, Erie and Niagara, has related to the author some passages in the life of Mr. Holmes which furnish extraordinary instances of suffering and perseverance. He gathered them from a memorial he presented to Congress, in his behalf, asking a pension, which was granted. In the year 1775, when he was but seventeen years old, he accompanied the expedition of General Montgomery, against Quebec. Returning, he re-enlisted in the army, and was enrolled in the Green Moun- tain crops, under Col, Herrick. About the period of the evacuation of Ticonderoga by the British, he was upon a scouting party, and himself and a companion were taken prisoners and carried to Quebec. While confined on board a prison ship, he and three others made their escape, and in a ship's boat crossed the St. Lawrence and struck into the wilderness without compass or guide. The four traveled seventeen days in a dreary region, subsisting the first seven days on four hard biscuits and eight ounces of pork a day; and the remaining ten days on the inner bark of the white pine and a few fish they caught with their hands. At the expiration of this period they were re-taken by a party of Indians and taken back to Quebec. Three of them escaped again, by leaping from the second story window of the provo prison, evading a guard of eighteeel men. They crossed the river, and, striking again into the wilderness, after many days of suffering reached the frontier settlement of Vermont. The reader will conclude that such an adventurer was well fitted to be a pioneer of a new settlement.
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is stated that Edward M'Henry, was the next settler on "an adjoining tract." The author is disposed to conclude that M'Henry settled under the auspices of Gen. M'Mahan, inasmuch as there is no record of any contract of his with the Holland Company. John M'Henry, born in 1802, was the first white child born in Chautauque. In 1803 M'IIenry was drowned while attempting to make a trip from the mouth of Chautauque creek to Erie, in a small boat, after provisions.
The first white resident of Chautauque, was Amos Sottle. He had resided near the mouth of the Cattaragus creek for three years before the sale of the Holland Company lands commenced.
The present village of Irving, or that portion of it which embraces the mouth of the Cattaragus creek, was at an early period of the surveys of the Purchase, platted as a village site, and called "Cattaragus;" village lots were sold there, as in Mayville and other of the original Holland Company villages, cotemporary with the sale of farming lands in the neighborhood. In addition to the Amos Sottle, that civilization found there, those who took contracts in early years, (not included in the list,) were Sylvester Maybee, Sylvester Mark, Nathan Cole, Benjamin Kenyon, Joseph Hadsell.
Settlements were commenced in the neighborhood of Fredonia in 1804; David Eason was the pioneer. In the same year, Dr. Kennedy, from Meadville, Pa., who is mentioned in a preceding chapter as having married one of the daughters of Andrew Ellicott. erected a saw mill on the Conewango-the first structure of the kind in Chautauque, and the first step in the way of improvement taken south of the Ridge.
The mill of Gen. M'Mahan, on Chautauque creek, was erected in 1804, though the author is disposed to conclude, was not in operation that year, for in some reminiscences furnished by an early settler, it is mentioned that Judge Cushing, and some of his neighbors, the first year after they went into the woods, made trips to Street's mill, at Niagara Falls, on foot, carrying flour and meal home on their backs. And in fact, it is difficult to conclude what a mill would have found to do in Chautauque, until the fall of 1805. as previous to that, there could have been no crops raised of any consequence. In 1805, Mr. Dickinson, the pioneer at Silver Creek. erected a saw mill, to which he attached a pestle and mortar, for
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pounding corn. Mr. Moore erected a grist mill at Forestville in 1806. Along in 1805 and '6, flour was worth in that part of the Purchase, from $12 to $15, and pork from $18 to $30 per barrel.
In April, 1806, the town of Chautauque, (including all of what is now Chautauque county,) having been set off from Batavia, a town meeting was held, Gen. M'Mahan elected supervisor, and James Montgomery, town clerk. Previous to this, as will be seen by some account we shall give of the organization of Genesee county, the early settlers had to go to Vandeventer's, on Buffalo road, for the transaction of their town business.
John M'Mahan, David Eason and Perry G. Ellsworth, were the first justices of the peace commissioned for Chautauque county.
William Wilson, in 1806, was the pioneer settler of the town of Ellicott; Joseph Aikin, of the town of Carrol; Messrs. Griffith, Bemus and Barnhart, were the pioneers on the eastern shores of Chautauque lake. For names of settlers up to Jan. 1st, 1807, see townships 6, ranges 10 and 11, townships 2, 5 and 6, range 12, townships 3 and 5, range 13, township 3, range 15, Irving and Mayville.
The settlement of the county of Chautauque was rapid, almost from the commencement up to the war of 1812. It had at an early period, a high reputation, which has been so abundantly justified since; or rather demonstrated, in the almost universal and substantial prosperity that exists there. The author can well remember, when (along in 1809, '10 and 11,) the early emigrants, with their covered wagons, or sleighs, were to be seen almost daily, upon either the Buffalo road, or the south road that terminates on the lake, eight miles above Buffalo. It was a land of promise with them then, and such it has proved; but the full fruition, as in all other portions of the Holland Purchase, was only to be realized after long years of privation and endurance, such as the settlement of the wilderness involves. With what stout hearts they would move along in their emigrant journeys; the pioneer himself, driving his team, with ruddy and cheerful countenance, undismayed by all the difficulties that were ahead of him; behind him, his boys, driving a cow, a few sheep and hogs; and often his wife and daughters, trudging along on foot. There are many of the now prosperous farmers of Chautauque, whose journeys into the wilderness were after the manner described. Their advents are mingled with the earliest recollections of the author; he has seen them making their slow
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progress over the rough, muddy, primitive roads; them, and their glorious pioneer wives, worn down, almost overcome with the toils and fatigues of a long journey; at nights sheltered in the humble log cabin tavern, their scanty stores of provisions spread out; and yet cheerful and happy ;- and well pleased has he been in long after years, to hear that a deserved success had crowned their efforts; that peace and plenty smiled around their once forest homes.
Hundreds of anecdotes could be told of the early settlers of Chautauque, that would illustrate that there, as well as upon all the rest of the Purchase, the pioneers were as poor a class of men, generally, as ever became founders of new settlements. Many of them got possession of their lands by paying mere nominal sums in advance; in some instances not over twenty-five cents. There are now in Chautauque and south part of Erie, (and the remark may be applied to the whole Holland Purchase,) many families, now the most prosperous, whose last dollar was spent when they had arrived at their locations in the forest, erected their log cabins, and supplied themselves with some scanty stores of provisions; and far the more credit is due to them, in consideration that such was their humble, hard beginnings. It may seem incredible; none but those who have seen the hardest features of pioneer life, can realize the truth of it; but the author has seen those who are yet surviving, surrounded with all the blessings that wealth can bestow, and those who have died after laying foundations of wealth for their descend- ants; making long journeys on foot, through wilderness paths, and primitive roads; returning with a peck of meal, perhaps a bag of flour, and sometimes with but a few potatoes, for the sustenance of themselves and families.
One of the earliest pioneers of Chautauque; afterwards a pros- perous farmer; for a long period occupying a seat upon the bench of the county, obtained possession of his lands by depositing in the land office at Batavia, his watch, to secure a part of the small advance payment. The transaction is minuted upon the books, and entry was afterwards appended that he had redeemed his watch.
The circumstance of Mr. Ellicott's getting frequent reports through Mr. Le Couteulx, of what the purchasers of lots in Buffalo were doing in the way of improvement has been noticed. All over the Purchase there were the same reports made. Below the entries in all the early contract books, there are memorandums, generally in Mr. Ellicott's hand writing, after this manner :- "D.
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E. reports that - has gone on to the lot, and put up the body
of a log house." "J. F. reports that -- has chopped two acres." "G. H. reports that - - has cut logs for a house, and intends bringing his family in this fall." "H. K. called at the office to-day and reports that - - has never yet been upon his lot, and doubts whether he ever will." "H. P. reports that - has three acres elcared, which he is intending to sow to wheat this fall." And in this way an eye was kept on the progress of improvement, and a general knowledge obtained of who were becoming actual settlers, and who were not. Appended to the leaves of the con- traet books are frequent short notes, addressed to Mr. Ellicott, recommending the bearers as worthy, industrious men, who are disposed to become settlers, signed by residents of the neighbor- hoods where the locations were intended to be made.
It will be observed that the Chamberlin family were the first to take contracts in that portion of the county of Allegany which is on the Holland Purchase. The patriarch of that family, so nume- rous and so closely blended with the settlement and progress of the counties of Allegany and Cattaragus, was Benjamin Chamberlin. He was the pioneer settler of Angelica, locating there in 1802. Few had more actively participated in the war of the Revolution. He was in the battles of Lexington, Bunker Hill, with Arnold at Quebec, (where he was made a prisoner and confined through the winter,) at Saratoga and Stillwater, White Plains, Stony Point, and Valentine's Hill. At Bunker Hill he had his left arm broken; at White Plains he was shot through one of his thighs; at Stony Point he was thrust with a bayonet; was shot in one of his feet at Valentine's Hill. In addition to all this he lost the use of an eye. He carried to his grave the marks of the heavy irons that were put upon his wrists, while a prisoner at Quebec.
The old veteran, whose eventful life should be the subject of a volume, rather than of a sketch so brief, was a native of Cheshire, Massachusetts. He died at Angelica, in 1847, aged 90 years. He was the father of Hon. Calvin T. Chamberlin of Cuba, and Judge Benjamin Chamberlin of Ellicottville. There are over one hundred of his descendants now residents of Western New York.
There is little in the way of settlement to notice, in Allegany, previous to the close of 1806. The condition of the whole of the south-eastern part of the Purchase at that period, will be realized from a statement of an old gentleman by the name of Metcalf, a
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resident at Ellicottville. His father, John Metcalf, came to Bat: with Mr. Williamson, and was the keeper of the public house he erected there. Mr. Metcalf says: - "In January 1806, I came through from Bath to Angelica, and then on to Olean Point. The road from Angelica to Olean was then only underbrushed; the logs were not cut out; I had to lift my sleigh over them. There was then no inhabitants between Genesee river and Olean. I foundl large hunting parties of Indians encamped about the small settlement that the Hoops had commenced, with whom I bartered goods for furs. I then started for Buffalo, taking an Indian trail that crossed the Cattaragus creek a short distance below Arcade. In all this route, I saw no white man, except at Olean, and after I had reached a few pioneer settlers in the south part of Eric."
Pike was one of the earliest settled portions of Allegany. Phineas Harvey was the pioneer. He settled there in May, 1806. Eli Griffith settled there the same year, and in that year, or the next, opened a road for Holland Company, from Leicester to ('astile. Griffith built a saw mill in 1808, and a grist mill in 1809. Michael Griffith, the father of Eli Griffith, and the Mr. Harvey that has been named, settled three miles east of village. Peter Granger and Asahel Newcomb settled same year. The settlers that followed soon after, were :- Christopher Olin, Salmon Sim- onds, Alanson Langdon, Payne Turner, Josiah Metcalf, Rufus Metcalf. Thomas Dole, Asa Lyon, Robert Boggs. Settlement in that quarter was brisk until the breaking out of the war. The early pioneer, Eli Griffith, went out under Smyth's proclamation and died on his way home; his neighbors, Jonathan Couch and Charles Benton, met the same fate. Mr. Caleb Powers, from whom we derive some local reminiscences of Pike, says, that in 1816 and '17, there was much suffering for food among the new settlers in all that region. The first born in Pike were twins, chil- dren of Mrs. Harvey; did not survive. The first death of an adult was that of Phineas Harvey. It was in 1807; there was no one to take the lead in any funeral ceremonies. The earliest ministers who visited that region, were Elder Smith, from Caneadea, and Elder Goodale, from Pittstown, Ontario Co. The first settled min- ister was Elder Gillett. A Baptist church was formed in 1812: a Presbyterian soon after. The first merchant was Tilly Parker. In the earliest years of merchandizing there, common tea cups and saucers were two dollars a sett; factory shirting, four shillings ner
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yard. Andrew Dutton was the first physician. Eli Griffith kept the first tavern. The first clothing and cloth dressing establishment was at "Bloody Corners;" * Miles Rood was the proprietor.
The Thomas Dole, named above, was the afterwards Judge Dole, a conspicuous pioneer of Allegany, and deserving a more extended notice. In this instance however, as well as numerous others, the author relying upon the promise of those who could furnish the necessary data, has been disappointed.
James Cravath, William Bristol, Benjamin Morse, Elnathan George, were the pioneer settlers south of Warsaw, in all of the present county of Wyoming; their locations, Gainsville and Weath- ersfield. During the war, Mr. Cravath built a grist and saw mill on the Wiscoy, between Hermitage and Springs.
The first settlers at Hermitage, were Eugene F. Stowe, Sidney Stowe, Augustus Hurlburt, Wm. R. Groger, Daniel Granger, and James Weeks.
It will be observed by list of settlers, that there is little to be said of settlement in Orleans, previous to Jan. 1st, 1807. It would seem that Mr. Ellicott had at an early period, selected the mouth of Oak Orchard creek as the site of a village. It was platted in 1803, and called "Manilla." Looking to the lake route, as the course that trade from a large portion of the Holland Purchase would take; Lewiston and Manilla were the anticipated depots. At that period, such vessels as were upon the lake, could enter the mouth of the Oak Orchard; the barrier there, was progressive, up to the period of commencing the recent harbor improvement. The Oak Orchard road from Batavia north, so early projected and opened, had reference to Manilla as the commercial depot for the middle and eastern portions of the Purchase. It will be seen that a few lots were sold there, previous to 1807, though but little was done in the way of founding a village. Sickness alone would have prevented it in all the early years; and in later years-the projection of the Erie Canal, arrested the projects of commercial depots upon the Lakes.
James Walsworth, known in all early years, as the tavern keeper on Lockport and Batavia road, upon the borders of the Tonawanda swamp, was the pioneer settler of Manilla, and in fact, of all Orleans county. In May, 1803, he landed at mouth of Oak
* There was an early tavern keeper there, who made his house celebrated for broils and fights; thence the name
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Orchard in an open boat, with his family, and built a solitary hut, the first and only one, between Fort Niagara and Braddock's Bay; his nearest neighbor west, at Cold Springs, near Lock- port, his nearest south, Pine Hill, (Elba;) his nearest east, Brad- dock's Bay. After they landed, he and his wife cut and barked poles for their cabin, covering with bark. The early adven- turer was very poor; all the provision he had when he landed, was a few bushels of potatoes; fish had to supply the rest for the sustenance of his family, save a little barter with the crews of bateaux, as they were passing few and far between, up and down the lake; and the author observes by the old books kept at the Irondequoit pioneer store, that he used to take some furs and peltries down there, and exchange them for some of the necessaries of life. Among some reminiscences of this early pioneer, it is mentioned, that either while living at Oak Orchard, or after he moved up on to the Lewiston road, in 1806, his wife gave birth to a pair of twins. The parturition was in the absence of either her own sex or a physician.
After elearing up the large farm on the Lockport and Batavia road, Mr. Walsworth, many years since, again became a pioneer; emigrated to the west.
Walsworth, and the few others that located at Oak Orchard, were all the settlers in Orleans, before 1809, except Whitfield Rathbun, who was the pioneer upon all that part of the Ridge Road, in Orleans county, embraced in Holland Purchase.
It will be noticed, by reference to tabular list of settlers, that settlement had just begun at the mouth of Eighteen Mile creek, in Niagara, and at Johnson's creek, in Orleans, in 1806. Burgoyne Kemp settled at the Eighteen Mile creek in 1808. There was then settled there William Chambers and - Colton; and there was one family at Johnson's creek, on lake. At that period there was no settler between lake and Ridge, in Niagara or Orleans.
Richard M. Stoddard, it will have been observed, was early in the employ of Mr. Ellicott as a surveyor; and was afterwards employed by him to survey the Triangular Tract for Messrs. Le Roy and Bayard. He became the agent for the sale of the traet. He had married in 1799, Miss Saltonstall, of Canandaigua, a sister of Dudley Saltonstall, Esq. Messrs. Stoddard and Saltonstall purchased of the proprietors the five hundred aeres which is now the site of Le Roy village. The interest of Mr. Saltonstall was
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soon after sold to Judge Ezra Platt. Stoddard and Platt became the pioncer settlers upon the Triangular Tract, in 1801, opening a land office at Le Roy, and soon commencing the building of mills.
The aged widow of Mr. Stoddard is now residing with her son, Thomas B. Stoddard, Esq., near Irving, in Chautauque county. She relates some interesting reminiscences of early times; few are more familiar with the early history of all Western New York.
The primitive residence at Le Roy, was a log house on the bank of Allan's creek. During the first winter of their residence there, Mr. Stoddard was engaged in tending the saw mill during a night. A party of intoxicated Indians came into the kitchen, built up a large fire and commenced making a pow wow, as if they were masters of the premises. Mrs. Stoddard, who was abed in another room, managed to get a little girl out of the window, wlio went to the mill and alarmed Mr. Stoddard. As he came into the house the Indians attacked him and a severe fight ensucd; Mr. S. was, however, the victor, and succeeded in expelling the intruders. There are many traditions of his adventures. related by the earliest class of settlers in that region; especially such as occurred when he was sheriff of Genesee county. He was fearless and deter- mined; had seen much of baekwoods life; and few were better adapted to the work of settling a new country, and becoming its chief executive officer. Anecdotes are told of his many acts of kindness to the new settlers, especially in the discharge of his official duties. He was much esteemed by the Indians; and was often consulted by their chiefs, in reference to the interests of their people. Mrs. Stoddard redeems the Indian character from the dis- grace of the drunken frolic, by stating that upon one occasion, when the whole family were sick with a prevailing influenza, a party of Indians and squaws greatly mitigated the disease by coming to their house, and giving the invalids an "Indian sweat." They dug holes in the earth, put in hot stones, poured water over them, and placed the patients under the influence of the steam, covering them over with blankets, and giving them warm drinks.
"Sheriff Stoddard," as he is familiarly called by the earlier class of pioneers, died in 1810. His only daughter, was the first wife of the Hon. John B. Skinner of Wyoming. The family circle, in its various branches, are conspicuously blended with the history of Western New York.
On the 1st of March, 1803, the town of Batavia having been set
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off from Northampton, the first town meeting ever held west of Genesee river was convened at the "house of Peter Vandeventer." The following town officers were chosen :-
Supervisor-Peter Vandeventer.
Town Clerk-David Culley.
Assessors-Enos Kellogg, Asa Ransom, Alexander Rea.
Commissioners of Highways- Alexander Rea, Isaac Sutherland, Suffrenus Maybee.
Overseers of the Poor-David Culley, Benjamin Porter.
Collector - Abel Rowe.
Constables-John Mudge, Levi Felton, Rufus Hart, Abel Rowe, Seymour Kellogg, Hugh Howell.
Overseers of Highways-Martin Middaugh, Timothy Hopkins, Orlando Hopkins, Benjamin Morgan, Rufus Hart, Lovell Churchill, Jabez Warren, Wm. Blackman, Samuel Clark, Gideon Dunliam, Jonathan Willard, Thomas Layton, Hugh Howell, Benjamin Porter, Wm. Walsworth.
Among the few ordinances passed at this primitive town meeting -this first gathering of the scattered pioneers-was, that "a bounty of $5 should be paid for wolf scalps; half price for whelps; and 50 cts. for foxes and wild cats.
A special town meeting was held at Vandeventers, in Sept., 1803, at which it was resolved to petition the legislature for the division of the town of Batavia into five towns.
The next town meeting (in 1804,) was held at the same place. Alexander Rea was chosen supervisor, and Isaiah Babcock, town clerk.
An ordinance was passed, imposing a fine of $5 upon any person " living in any other county or town, who should drive cattle into the town of Batavia to be kept."* It was also ordained that no person should be licensed to keep a tavern, who had not a securely enclosed yard, sufficiently large to contain all the "sleds, sleighs. wagons, carts and other carriages, that he or she may have at his or her tavern, at any one time, for entertainment or refreshment." A bounty of $5 was voted for "panther's scalps."
The first election held in the town of Batavia, was at Vandeven- ters, in April, 1803. The inspectors certified to the following votes. -
* This was intended to preserve the fine feed upon the openings, on the Lockport and Batavia road, for the use of the settlers upon the Purchase, The settlers upon tracts adjoining the Purchase on the east, had been in the habit of driving cattle there for pasture.
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For Senators-Caleb Hyde, 146; Vincent Matthews, 5.
For Members of Assembly-Daniel Cliapin, 182; Ezra Patterson, 155; John Swift, 160; Polydore B. Wisner, 4; Nathaniel W. Howell, 28; Amos Hall, 9.
At the second election, held in April, 1804, the vote was as follows: -
For Governor-Morgan Lewis, 111; Aaron Burr, 11.
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