USA > Ohio > Shakers of Ohio; fugitive papers concerning the Shakers of Ohio, with unpublished manuscripts > Part 11
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This land is slightly rolling, through the center of which runs Doan's Brook, having a narrow valley, but of sufficient depth to afford admirable drainage. It is located upon the high tablebland overlooking the City of Cleveland. When first bought it was very heavily timbered with beech, maple, white- wood, oak, elm, birch, walnut, basswood and hemlock. On the border of the creek, between the site of the Mill Family and the ruins of the old grist-mill-notice of which will again be made-is a grove of native hemlock, which, in point of beauty, is not surpassed by any in the county. The Shakers left it just as nature made it,-unadorned and unimproved. The first settlers on this soil judged that land capable of pro- ducing such a growth and variety of trees, some of which were from four to seven feet in diameter, especially of the white- wood and chestnut, must be of the first quality for agricul- tural purposes. In this they greatly erred and were sadly dis- appointed. The deception may be accounted for from the fact that, owing to the great lapse of time since vegetation began to grow on it, the annual decay of the grass and the foliage of the trees gradually deposited the top soil, which varies in depth from five to ten inches. Below this is hard clay, resting upon sandstone. This top soil made the timber, the roots of much of which did not penetrate into the clay, notably the sugar- maple, which is easily blown over as soon as the forest is cleared and the winds have a full sweep, in consequence of which the roots run close to the surface of the ground. On account of the great abundance of the last-named tree it was not unusual during the early days of the society to make 3,000 weight of maple sugar annually.
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SHAKERS OF OHIO.
The lesson was soon learned that the soil was better adapted for dairy and grazing purposes than for raising grain, although good crops were produced for several years after the first clearing of the land; after that it was figured that there was a loss of ten per cent. for every year it was ploughed, unless highly fertilized. Long experience taught the Shakers that the best way to manage this soil was to stock it down, put on fertilizers, top-dress it, sow. on the grass seed, under-drain it, keep the water from standing on it and keep the cattle off. Then it will produce two tons per acre on the average. Noth- ing is more ruinous to this land than to let the cattle and horses tread it up when the ground is soft or full of water; for every footprint leaves a hole where the water settles, and not only. kills the grass, but also the life of the soil. Hence the people learned that the ground should be seldom ploughed, and never when it was wet.
The leadership of Elder Ashbel Kitchell proved to be of great service to the community. He had an iron will and his word was law, and fortunately for the people they acquiesced in his plans. He was presiding elder for a period of five years, during which time the society made a great access in buildings and improvements, among which was the first frame house, called the Center House, 30 by 40 feet, two stories high, built by James McNemar, standing on the very spot of land where Ralph Russell saw the vision heretofore mentioned. There was also constructed the first grist-mill, built of wood, 30 by 50 feet, with two run of stone and all the apparatus for bolting wheat. There was erected a frame house, 30 by 45 feet, which was sub- sequently occupied for a church, or, as the Shakers call it, the Meeting House; also an ox barn, 24 by 50 feet; a cow barn, 80 by 40 feet ; a grain barn, 40 by 70; a tan house, 30 by 35 feet, and an office, 24 by 36 feet, besides clearing off about ten acres of heavy timbered land at the grist-mill, and making various other important improvements. Nearly all these build- ings were at the Middle Family, which was always the principal one.
Ashbel Kitchell was succeeded by Matthew Houston, and after two years he in turn was succeeded by David Spinning,
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NORTH UNION SOCIETY.
who became presiding elder October 24, 1832, and held the office for a period of eight years, during which time the com- munity continued to increase in numbers and grow and pros- per in all things, both temporal and spiritual.
In June, 1834, a new ministry was formed, consisting of Elder David Spinning, Richard W. Pelham, Eldresses Lucy Faith and Vincy McNemar,-all save the first named recently sent from Union Village. A better selection could not have been
VIEW OF MILL-DAM FROM BOULEVARD.
made, for all were consecrated to the work, able in their ex- position of the Gospel, of upright example, and could not be swerved from their duties. With such a coterie the impetus. received under Elder Kitchell would necessarily continue.
But Elder David did not wait for this valuable accession to the ranks. In September, 1832, he caused to be erected a build- ing called the red shop, 30 by 120 feet, two stories high, designed mostly for workshops, which was completed in 1833. It was.
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SHAKERS OF OHIO.
subsequently divided into three parts, one removed and formed for a boys' house, one shoved south of the family house and used for a work-house, and the remaining one for a broom- shop. In 1836 a building was erected for a sheep barn, 24 by 50 feet, placed on the north hill. In the spring of 1837 a new saw-mill was built at the Mill Family, 21 by 43 feet, two stories high, the upper part of which was occupied for a coopershop, and there was made tubs, pails, churns, etc., of pine lumber, shipped from Michigan, from land owned by the society. Just above this mill an expensive mill-dam was constructed across the creek, forming a pond of water covering about twenty-five acres. The same year a barn was built for the Mill Family, 36 by 50 feet, located by the roadside south of the creek. In 1838 a dwelling house was erected for the same family, 34 by 50 feet, two stories high, with an underground room for a kitchen, making it three stories on the south side. It was during the eldership of David that spirit manfestations were recognized, a detailed account of which will be given under the considera- tion of religious dogmas.
On September 15, 1840, the leadership of the society was conferred on Elder Samuel Russell, who presided over its desti- nies for a period of eighteen years, during which time it pro- gressed in things temporal and spiritual, in buildings and im- provements. Under this administration the community reached its culminating point, both as to numbers and material develop- ment and growth. The advance had been steady, with but comparatively few drawbacks. The membership increased to nearly two hundred, living at one time in the three families. A marked decline set in at the close of this period which steadily increased until the final abandonment of the community. Thirty- six years saw the community growing in wealth, developing spiritually, increasing in numbers ;- thirty-one years marked the period of decay, slow at first, but rapid towards the final con- summation.
Among the first improvements was an addition to the resi- dence at the Middle Family of a kitchen 20 by 60 feet, two . stories high, with a bell weighing three hundred and twenty- six pounds, purchased in Cincinnati for $130. It cost an ad-
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dition of $15 for transportation. The kitchen was very con- venient, and later all necessary improvements were added, such as stoves, ranges, bakers, etc. It consisted of a dining-room,. with two long tables; twenty-five persons could be seated at each, the sisters on the south and .the brethren on the north side. Over the dining-room was a chapel, used three evenings in the week for family worship; also on Sunday. West of the
SOUTH-EAST VIEW OF RESIDENCE OF MIDDLE FAMILY.
cook-room was the bake-room, and over these were two dwell- ing rooms and two shops for the sisters.
These additions were made necessary, for the society had increased until in 1840 there were one hundred members at the Middle Family, about equal in numbers of each sex, including children, and in each of the other two families there were fifty members, making in all two hundred in this community.
In 1843 a new stone grist-mill was built on the north side
VIEW OF THE RUINS OF THE GRIST-MILL.
RUINS OF DAM AND RACE OF GRIST-MILL.
NORTH UNION SOCIETY. 127
of the creek, near the extreme western part of this land and not far from the hemlock grove. On the south end it was four stories high. Its massive walls of the basement story was built of sandstone, four feet thick, quarried on the spot, or near by. The gearing was mostly of cast-iron. The penstock was hewn out of solid sandstone, to a depth of 50 feet. The front was laid with heavy blocks of stone, mitered in, laid with
SOUTH-WEST VIEW OF CHURCH.
hydraulic cement. There were three run of stone, cast-iron shafts, 50 feet long, running from the stones above down to the cast-iron arm-wheels below. Besides all this there were two new bolts and screen, smut-mill, and a place for grinding coarse feed. When it was built good judges pronounced it to be one of the best flouring-mills in Ohio. It was a monument of solid masonry and workmanship.
In 1848 a new church was erected, 100 feet long and 50
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SHAKERS OF OHIO.
feet wide, large, commodious and built of wood. It was dedi- cated November 29, 1849. It is divided into three parts. At the south end are rising seats for the public, fenced off by a railing, occupying 20 feet of the floor room, used by the gen- eral public. At the north end 24 feet of the space is cut off for the use of the ministry. On first floor are two apartments. These parts are separated by a hallway 10 feet in width. This hallway is entered through a double doorway. The men's ' apartments have a doorway to the hall, the audience-room and an exit. The same is also true of the apartment of the women. Over these apartments are others for the elders and eldresses,
DEPARTMENT
CALLERY
OF ELDRESSES (ABOUE)
PASSAGE STAIRS
SHAKER
PASSAGE
CONGREGATION
DEPARTMENT
OF
GALLERY
ELDERS (ABOUE)
FLOOR PLAN OF SHAKER CHURCH
or ministry, leading to which is a stairway through the hall. Each of the upstairs apartments is divided into two rooms and a closet. At both ends are double doorways, and the same on the west side, the latter seldom ever used. The arrangement gave the worshippers a space of about 50 feet square, surrounded by benches fastened to the wall. Wooden pins abound in the building, used for the purpose of suspending hats and coats. There is also a stairway leading to the attic and one to the cellar. The attic exhibits the massive timber used in its construction. The building was painted white.
The building of the church was followed by the erection of a shool house a few rods south of the former, constructed of brick, 21 by 36 feet, well furnished with stationary seats and desks, and teacher's platform on the north side near the mid-
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dle. It was well ventilated and furnished with the best ap- proved books, globes, maps, blackboards and all other appa- ratus in use in district schools.
The times also demanded a kitchen for the office, and one was built 15 by 36 feet, two stories high. About the same time a small two-story building was put up near the northeast
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SOUTH-WEST VIEW OF OFFICE.
corner of the church, used by the ministry for a workshop, the lower story by the men and the upper for the women.
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In 1854 the woolen factory was erected, 24 by 50 feet, three stories high on the south and four stories on the north side, including the basement, built of brick. The upper story was occupied by a spinning jack of 160 spindles, two power looms for weaving cloth and a twister .- The next story below was used for the carding machines,-the most of their wool being manufactured into stocking yarn. In the story immedi-
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SHAKERS OF OHIO.
ately under this last named was an iron lathe for turning broom handles, and in the basement was a large grindstone and a buzz- saw for sawing wood for fuel, which kept between forty and fitty fires supplied through the winter. The entire machinery was carried by water power supplied by an overshot wheel, with water drawn from the upper pond through an artificial race.
This is a narration of some of the improvements made under the immediate supervision of Elder Samuel Russell, who went further in this direction than any one ruling that com- munity. His attention was also called to the better stock of cattle and horses. Of the former he secured the Durham and Devonshire breeds, of the most thoroughbred that could be .obtained in either England or the United States. The horses adopted were those evenly matched in color, size and speed- it proving nothing whether they were Morgan, French, Cana- dian or Arabian.
The withdrawal of Elder Samuel Russell from the society in 1858 left his office vacant, which was immediately filled by the appointment of John P. Root in the ministry. In 1862 the ministry was dissolved.
About the year 1858, on account of some financial troubles, vaguely hinted at and their origin, Elder Richard W. Pelham was sent from Union Village to straighten it out. He remained two years engaged in this work. This mission did not interfere with the work of Elder Root.
There is no record of any special improvement after 1858. In 1870 the condition had become such that a rumor was cur- rent that an abandonment was contemplated. This met with an indignant denial. At this time the three families were kept up, having a membership of one hundred and twenty-five.
In 1874 the Novitiate Elder and Eldress were James S. Prescott and Prudence Sawyer.
In 1875 there were still three families, numbering one hun- dred and two persons, of whom seventeen were children and youths under twenty-one years of age. Of these last six were boys and eleven girls. Of the adult members, forty-four were women and forty-one men. Their number had recently in- creased, although during the previous fifteen years there had
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been a gradual diminution. Of the members then remaining about one-third were brought up in the society. Of the re- mainder most of them had been by religious connections Bap- tists, Methodists and Adventists. The majority had been farm- ers, but there were also sailors, whalemen and weavers. Some were Englishmen, others Germans, still others Swiss, but the greater portion were Americans. The buildings now began to exhibit neglect, showing a want of thorough painting and the neatness of shops. They had no steam laundry, nor provision for baths. They possessed a small library and took the daily New York World and Sun. They had no debts, but possessed a fund at interest. Their chief source of income was supply- ing milk and vegetables to Cleveland, as well as fire wood and · lumber. Their dairy brought them the previous year $2,300 .*
The Shaker for November, 1876, contains the following notice of North Union :
"Anticipated development of stone quarry at this place looks like a steady source of income to society. Grist-mill, built in 1843, has failed for years to be more than a conven- ience, and sometimes only an expense, is now running by steam and likely to be appreciated as one of the best in the country. Nearly 1,000 bushels of oats threshed. Early potatoes were a good crop ; late ones not so good-bugs, etc. Roots and garden products coming in well. A dairy herd at the center family- forty cows-are unequalled in the state."
In 1879 the East Family had twenty-five members, of which John P. Root and Charles Taylor were the elders, and Rachel Russell and Harriet Snyder the eldresses. The Middle Family had thirty members, of which Samuel Miner and George W. Ingalls were elders and Lusetta Walker and Clymena Miner the eldresses. The Mill Family had twelve members, of which Curtis Cramer and Watson Andrews were elders and Lydia Cramer and Temperance Devan eldresses. The board of trus- tees consisted of James S. Prescott, George W. Ingalls and Samuel S. Miner, and the deaconesses of Candace Russell, Abi- gal Russell and Margaret Sawyer.
*Nordhoff's Communistic Societies of the United States, p. 204.
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SHAKERS OF OHIO.
As the society had ever been dependent on Union Village for its ministry, and as there was no ministry resident, those who filled that position were, at this time, William Reynolds, Amos Parkhurst, Louisa Farnham and Adaline Wells.
The members of the community, for the greater part, had reached an age when they could not toil as of yore. Hence it
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SOUTH-EAST VIEW OF RESIDENCE OF EAST FAMILY.
became necessary to employ laborers and the fruits were not of the increase. John P. Root ceased to be presiding elder in 1876 and was succeeded by James S. Prescott, who in turn was suc- ceeded by Samuel Miner in 1878.
In 1889, owing to the age of the members and the num- bers decreased to twenty-seven, and the East Family buildings. having been abandoned, further struggle was deemed unwise. Matthew Carter, of Union Village, was made property trustee, who afterward turned the office over to Joseph R. Slingerland and Oliver C. Hampton, also of Union Village. On October
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24, 1889, the society was dissolved, eight of the members going to Union Village and the remainder to Watervelt, near Dayton, Ohio. At the time of the dissolution of the society the elders were Samuel S. Miner and Clymena Miner at the Middle Family and Watson A. Andrews and Temperance Devan at the Mill Family. Then came the auction for the disposal of such chat- tels as the members did not desire to take with them. Two of the brethren remained to look after the buildings and collect the rent. Some three years later the land, by the trustees, Joseph Slingerland and Oliver C. Hampton, was sold to T. A. and Lawrence Lamb for the sum of $316,000. A few years still - later the same land sold for $1,365,000. The park system of Cleveland, with its boulevards now (1900) takes in all of Doan Creek that once belonged to the Shakers of North Union.
III. THE SHAKER FAMILIES.
I have never seen any description of the three families that constituted North Union. The description that here fol- lows depends almost entirely on my own trips to the locality, made March 8, 27 and April 1, 1900. My first walk was for the sole purpose of locating the village and obtaining a general view. The second trip was for the purpose of obtaining defi- nite information concerning such things as I was 'unable to de- termine during my first visit. Fortunately I learned of Mr. John Ubersax, who was in the employ of the society from 1861 to 1869, and he accompanied me and readily gave me such information as I required. He was the peddler for both the brethren and sisters, carved thirty-four of the head-stones in the cemetery, and laid the stone walks at the Middle Family.
Approaching the lands from the west the first object that attracts the eye is the ruins of the old grist-mill. It is one corner of solid masonry, rising to the height of 45 feet. When the mill ceased to be of value it was sold. The new proprietor blew it up with dynamite, in order to extend his stone quarry underneath it. The dam is at a very narrow part of the stream hard by, composed of heavy beams. The mill race was covered from the dam to its junction with the mill. A part, still remains. A few feet north of the mill may be seen the foundation of the
came to the site of the Mill Family, not a single building of Proceeding eastward, leaving the Hemlock Grove, we next
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9
1
Col
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3 -
3 -
SHAKER POND
15
S
TAIL RACE
EMBANKMENT
SITE OF MILL FAMILY DRAWN ~BY - J. P. MACLEAN MARCH 27 - 1906. -
1. RESIDENCE
9. DRY HOUSE
2 . SAW MILL
10. MILK HOUSE
3. BARNS 1
II. WOOD SHED
4. WATERWHEEL SHED
12. WORK SHOP
5. BLACK-SMITH SHOP
13. COW HOUSE
6. WAGON SHEDS
14. BRIDGE
7. WASH HOUSE
15. TENANT HOUSE
E. CHEESE HOUSE
14. HEMLOCK GROVE
ber of the Mill Family.
miller's home. The first miller 'was Jeremiah Ingalls, a mem-
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SHAKERS OF OHIO.
APPLE ORCHARD
VEMBANHMENT.
14
ROAD TO CLEVELAND
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NORTH UNION SOCIETY.
which remains; nor are the foundations in a good state of pres- ervation, save that of the saw-mill, close by the great dam of earth and stone. All this destruction has taken place since its desertion by its last inhabitants. These buildings were all of wood, with sandstone foundations. The mill building proper was removed, while the remaining buildings were destroyed by fire. While Doan Creek is narrow at this point, yet there is a marked declivity of the land towards the banks of the stream. The residence was on the bank, so built, in all probability, for - the purpose of having a basement kitchen. The wall for the cheese house commenced at the bed of the stream. The never- failing spring ran through the wash house. The barns (marked 3, 3, in the accompanying diagram) were on the south side on . high land overlooking that on which the other buildings were placed. These barns were connected with the residence by a roadway, now abandoned. The bridge remains in a ruined condition. This was the bridge crossed by the patrons of the saw-mill from the south. The buildings were arranged for the two-fold purpose of health and convenience. The dam, al- though well built, at times was a source of some danger during freshets. But such breaks as occurred were repaired without delay, unless unavoidable. As an additional protection willows were planted, which also extended along the embankments. At the present time there is a broad space enlarging the dam, built as an extension of Cleveland's boulevard system. Another arm of the same system extends a bridge and roadway between the site of the mill and that of the residence.
The family sometimes called the North, also the Second, but generally known as the Mill Family, for its existence de- pended largely on the grist-mill to the west and the saw-mill at the dam. When in the highest degree of their prosperity they were great sources of income. The saw-mill turned out lumber, and vessels of various kinds that met with a ready and profitable sale. The water from the spring was carried to the residence through pipes, and being soft, was used for such pur- poses as cooking, washing and bathing. In everything the sis- ters were favored as well as the brethren, not only in the matter of convenience, but in the power to produce and sell.
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SHAKERS OF OHIO.
Of the Center or Middle Family the greater number of buildings still stand, a faithful witness of good workmanship and heavy and solid timbers. These have stood for a period of
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12
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14
26
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15
] 27
31
0 28
29
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32
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18
I. CHURCH
13. DRY HOUSE -SITE
25 CALF STABLE
2. FAMILY HOUSE
14. HORSE BARN -SITE
26 COW STABLE
J. ELDERS' HOUSE
IS. WAGON SHED
27 ADDITIONAL
4 OFFICE
16. CHICKEN HOUSE
28 WOOD SHED-SITE
S GIRLS' HOUSE.
I7 TOOL HOUSE
29 CHEESE HOUSE
6. BOYS HOUSE SITE
IT. SCHOOL HOUSE-SITE
30 CHICKEN HOUSE
7. HOSPITAL
19. BARN - SITE
31 APPLE ORCHARD
8. WASH HOUSE
20 BIG SQUARE BARN - SITE 32 APPLE ORCHARD
9. DRY HOUSE 18. BROOM SHOP
22 TANNERY - SITE
34 HOLY GROVE
11. BLACKSMITH SHOP " WOOLEN MILL SITE.
23. HORSE STABLE
35 NURSERY
4 WAGON SHEDS
PLAN or LOCATION of BUILDINGS .. MIDDLE FAMILY DRAWN BY J.P. Maclean. 1400
30
PUBLIC ROAD
6
|25
24
021
more than forty years. All of them show the hand markings - of neglect. Decay of the buildings commenced with the decay of the community. With the exception of the broom shop, painted red, there is scarcely a trace of paint on any of the build- ings. Even the white church has the appearance of unpainted boards long exposed to rains. The buildings have every ap- pearance of a long deserted village. Most of the buildings are
21. CARPENTER SHOP-SITE 33 CEMETRY
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NORTH UNION SOCIETY.
not used and those in use are neglected. Amidst the ruins, even the unpracticed eye can read the testimony of former pros- perity.
My first approach to the village was from the northwest. The family residence and office appeared familiar when I caught the first distant view. I had seen them before. There can be no mistake. The impression was too vivid. That was my first appearance in that vicinity. Perhaps years ago I saw them in a dream, which dream was laid up in a substratum of my brain. I do not know. I only know I had seen them before.
In this village were two brick buildings, the woolen mill and the school house. The former was blown up to make room for the boulevard, and not a trace remains, although the mill race is practically intact. When the children were too few in number to have a teacher the school building was sold and the brick removed. The buildings are connected with sand- stone slabs regularly laid, so that in the muddiest season there was no effort in passing to the school house, church, office, nursery or hospital, girls' house, wash house, etc. With a few exceptions these stones are still in place. The buildings that have been removed, besides those already mentioned, were dry house (13), horse barn (14), big square barn (20), carpenter shop (21), tannery (22), and woodshed (28). Some of the build- ings could be put in repair at comparatively small expense, no- tably the church, the office and the residence; but as there is no necessity for this, they will vanish in a few more years, even as those who erected them have passed away. A German fanı- ily now lives in the office and a Hungarian family in the resi- dence.
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