USA > Ohio > Hamilton County > Cincinnati > The suburbs of Cincinnati : sketches, historical and descriptive > Part 12
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On McMillan street many of the buildings recently erected are exceed- ingly neat and comfortable, while not a few are large and expensive. The residence of Joseph W. Cotteral, on the south side, a short distance west of the point where the Madisonville turnpike turns to the north, is a large two- story edifice. It presents a fine appearance from the street, and, with its handsome surroundings, is among the first to attract the attention of per- sons visiting this locality.
Immediately adjoining him on the east, William Sumner, in 1869, finished a very beautiful stone-front residence. It is two stories, with ample
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verandas and elaborate details. The grounds are very handsome, not only presenting a good appearance themselves, but in turn furnishing a charm- ing prospect in all directions. Few persons in our suburbs have as attract- ive places as Mr. Sumner.
John Simpkinson's property is next on the east. These premises are on the south-west corner of McMillan street and Grandview avenue. The location is a splendid one, commanding ample views both to the north and in the direction of the Ohio. The building is a two-story brick, with Man- sard roof and tasteful verandas and portico. The premises are attractive and valuable. The stranger who visits this part of Walnut Hills will not go away without making inquiry concerning the possessor of such a delight- ful home.
On the north side of McMillan street, opposite the places of Mr. Simp- kinson and Mr. Sumner, Lewis French, three years ago, erected at consid- erable expense a two-story residence with tower. The lot and surroundings are attractive, and the edifice showy and capacious.
Grand View avenue is a short street running southwardly from McMillan street to the brow of the river hill. At the southern terminus of this, on the east side of the avenue, is the place of Augustus Wessel. Mr. Wessel has within his inclosure six acres of land, which slope to the east and south, and run down quite to the brow of the hill which overhangs the upper part of the city. On this lot, well to the south, Mr. Wessel's residence, a large two-story edifice of blue limestone, was erected about six years ago. The building is stately and roomy. Inside it is finished richly with black walnut and pine, and throughout it is a dwelling of unusual completeness. In his location he has been singularly fortunate. It will be remembered that the river, three miles above the landing, begins to bear rapidly to the south. Mr. Wessel's location is at a point that enable him to take advantage of this change in the course of the river, and permits him to look directly up the stream for several miles. The prospect is as beautiful as if he were look- ing across a lake miles in width, with the additional attraction of having the hills on either side flanking the stream. The villages on both sides of
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the Ohio, as far up as the mouth of the Little Miami river, can be readily seen, though they are removed sufficiently to hide every undesirable feature, and to reveal only the beautiful points of the landscape. On either side, the banks of the river swell into hills dotted with farm houses and dwell- ings, around which the fresh foliage of spring weaves its garlands, and the peculiar charms of each season of the year are displayed without stint. There is no unpleasant view. Take any window to the east, and you can sit by the hour and watch passing boats, or follow the shadow of the clouds as they chase each other along the turbid surface of a stream at its flood, or are mirrored in the clear water when the freshet has subsided. Mr. Wessel has improved his grounds very handsomely. Nei- ther ha; he devoted himself exclusively to the ornamental ; for in his large yard he has fruit trees of various kinds, and a well-cared-for garden.
Just below is the beautiful home of H. L. Kemper. Here the land declines in the direction of Cincinnati, affording an unusually fine view of the lower part of the city, and the cities of Newport and Covington, as well as the highlands upon the Kentucky side. At night this is one of the most delightful prospects along the river.
Proceeding to the east, there are yet a number of large, comfortable resi- dences, with pleasant surroundings, including the Purcell mansion, south of McMillan street. On several short streets intersecting this street near its eastern terminus, is a little community of Germans that have gathered about the beautiful St. Francis' Church. They are principally on Kleine and Church streets, and are divided between Cincinnati and Woodburn. Their homes are neat and comfortable, and evidences of thrift are apparent on all sides.
CHURCHES.
The oldest church, as has been intimated, is the First Presbyterian (late Old School). The present edifice was erected 'on McMillan street, est of the Montgomery road, in 1855, at a cost of thirteen thousand dol- lars. It is constructed of brick, with quoins of brown stone, and is a taste
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ful church, to which a neat room for infant instruction has recently been added. The main room is open to the rafters, finished and furnished hand- somely, and will accommodate four hundred persons.
Until the year 1868, the old stone church, built by the infant congrega- tion in 1818, was permitted to stand beside its more tasteful successor. It was a plain, unpretentious structure, around which such sacred recollections gathered that its friends hesitated to remove it. But, it is decreed that the things of this world, when they cease to be useful, are to be taken away or hurried out of sight, for the purpose, perhaps, that we may not, in the discharge of the grave duties of life, cling tenaciously to the past rather than press forward to untrodden paths and keep steadily in view that other " house, not made with hands, eternal in the heavens."
On the site of the old church, or perhaps a little in the rear of it, the congregation, in 1868, erected a parsonage. It is a two-story brick edifice, exceedingly tasteful in its finish and surroundings, and creditable to all con- cerned.
Next in age is Lane Seminary Church (late New School Presbyterian), organized about the year 1832. This, early, was composed largely of per- sons connected with the Seminary, and grew out of the causes that finally led to the division of the Presbyterian Church. This society worships in the chapel of Lane Seminary. The chapel, under a contract with the trustees of the Seminary, was remodeled by the society four years ago, at a cost of ten thousand dollars. The lecture room is handsome and spacious. The main audience room is well furnished, lighted, and ventilated, and will comfortably seat five hundred persons. The pastor, the Rev. G. H. Ful- lerton, was installed three years ago. The communicants number about one hundred and sixty, and the average attendance at the Sabbath-school is one hundred and fifty scholars.
The Methodist Episcopal Church, on Kemper lane, is a thrifty organiza- tion, that has largely increased in numbers during the past two years. It now numbers in membership two hundred and fifty-five, and the accommo- dations the small edifice furnishes are entirely unequal to the wants of the
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congregation. The matter of erecting a new building has been agitated for some months, and liberal subscriptions have been secured for this purpose. In April, 1870, a lot one hundred and fifteen feet front by two hundred and twenty feet in depth was purchased, on the south-east corner of McMil- lan and Ashland streets. For this the congregation paid eleven thousand five hundred dollars, or at the rate of one hundred dollars per foot. There is little doubt that, in a comparatively short time, Walnut Hills will rejoice in another addition to her church edifices, and one, too, concerning which she may cherish pride. The pastor of the church is the Rev. C. A. Brooke. The Sabbath-school, in charge of John C. Brooke, averages about two hundred and twenty-five scholars.
The Church of the Advent (Episcopal), on Kemper lane, built four years ago of the blue limestone of these hills, is a very handsome building. It is cruciform, with chancel and tower, and was erected at a cost of about thirty thousand dollars. The rector is the Rev. Peter Tinsley. There are connected with this parish one hundred and fifty communicants. The Sab- bath-school numbers one hundred and fifty scholars, and is in charge of John Cinnamon.
The Baptists, during the past four years, have had service irregularly, but have had no pastor and own no place of worship.
There is a colored congregation of the Methodist Episcopal Church, and a colored Baptist congregation, each one having a comfortable house of worship that is equal to present wants, and upon which there is no indebt- edness.
The Catholics have a church, called St. Francis', on the boundary line between Cincinnati and Woodburn. It is a stone edifice of very consider- able beauty and architectural grace. Its membership comes principally from the German population.
A new Catholic church is projected, to be erected on McMillan street, two squares west of the Montgomery road.
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PUBLIC SCHOOL.
The public school of Walnut Hills is worthy of special commendation. The number of scholars enrolled in the Twenty-second ward is about seven hundred, while the average daily attendance will reach six hundred. The school is under the superintendence of G. W. Nye, who is aided by twelve assistant teachers, besides a teacher each of German and music. The com- modious school building, to which valuable additions have been made dur- ing the past two years, is situated on Montgomery road, between McMillan street and the Seminary grounds.
APPROACHES AND OTHER MATTERS.
The principal approach to Walnut Hills is by way of Hunt street and the Lebanon and Montgomery turnpikes. This, for years, has been a great thoroughfare, not only being the route by which the inhabitants of the three suburbs of Walnut Hills, Woodburn, and East Walnut Hills, have reached the city, but one of the important channels through which the intercourse has been conducted between Cincinnati and a remote district of great extent to the north-east. The travel upon it has been immense, and must continue so until improvements now making shall relieve it. The road is well macadamized. For a distance of seven-tenths of a mile south of McMillan street, it is curbed and guttered on both sides, and curbed and guttered on the west side two-fifths of a mile beyond Abigail street. A sidewalk extends along the roadside the whole distance.
Another route to this place is by way of Kemper lane, a macadamized street, which has come into public notice within a comparatively few years. This approaches Front street from the hills by a somewhat tortuous course, and intersects that street about one mile above the Little Miami railroad depot. Along this street has been constructed for pedestrians a plank walk four feet wide. By this it is one thousand yards, or a little more than a
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half mile, from the street railroad to Windsor street at its intersection with Kemper lane. This is the economical and democratic way to get to Wal- nut Hills, for you have a six-cent ride of about two miles on the street railway, and then a half-mile tug on foot, where prince and beggar alike rely on muscle.
Still farther on is the stairway constructed up the hillside opposite Hackberry street in Woodburn. This is principally of stone, about one- third of a mile in length, and is entirely practicable to the pedestrian who has courage enough to undertake it.
These, at present, are the approaches to Walnut Hill:, But they are all insignificant in importance compared with an improvement already begun, known as Gilbert avenue. This is to be a grand avenue along the hillside east of Deercreek, from a point opposite Court street, to the inter- section of the Montgomery and Madisonville roads in Walnut Hills. It is to be one hundred feet wide, of an easy and uniform grade. It is proposed to set curbs, pave gutters, and micadamize the road, after which it will be covered with gravel. This thoroughfare will run at about the same altitude as the Lebanon and Montgomery roads, and nearly parallel with the Deer- creek valley road. Much of the work of extending Court street to Accom- modation street has already been performed, and considerable grading at either end of the route has been done. The work has not progressed with a speed commensurate with its importance, but it seems probable that it will be prosecuted hereafter with more vigor. The work is one of great consequence, both to Cincinnati and to the suburbs lying to the north-east. When finished, it will be one of the finest outlets the city will have, and besides, will be a desirable route for a street railway to Eden Park and Walnut Hills, the construction of which will hardly be delayed long beyond the completion of the avenue.
Lebanon and Montgomery roads, Kemper lane, and McMillan street, and one or two adjacent streets, are lighted by gasoline lamps, which, it is thoughit, will be suppl unted by gas some time during the present year.
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Park and Grandview avenues, will also, doubtless, have gas as early as their neighbors, and other streets will very soon thereafter be supplied.
A house for a steam fire-engine is already in process of erection on McMillan street, west of the Presbyterian church. Its completion will be signaled by the presence of an engine adapted to the wants of that locality.
Under the terms of annexation, water mains are to be extended to this locality as early as practicable. It will thus be seen that what is known as Walnut Hills will very soon have all the material advantages of the city. That the change which has been effected will increase population, stimulate improvement, and promote the general prosperity, can not be questioned.
EDEN PARK.
Closely related to Walnut Hills is Eden Park, which must have an important bearing upon the future of this part of the city. Cincinnati has three parks within her limits that are creditable-one of them, indeed, dis- tinguished for its beauty-but they are all small. The desirableness of procuring lands for an ultimate breathing spot for our population had been a source of anxiety to the more reflecting citizens here for many years. Various plans had been suggested, but nothing was definitely done in this direction until December 6, 1865, when the city purchased of Joseph Long- worth, executor of Nicholas Longworth, what was then known as the Gar- den of Eden. This embraced one hundred and fifty-six acres of the high- lands lying between Deercreek valley and the Ohio river, and between Mount Adams and Walnut Hills. The price agreed upon for these lands was three thousand dollars per acre. On the 9th of January, 1866, the necessary papers were executed, and a work was inaugurated that was des- tined to furnish Cincinnati a park, which, for beauty of situation and for variety of attractive features, will certainly not have its superior in any country. This tract was purchased for the immediate purpose of construct- ing here an immense reservoir, from which to supply the city with water; but public attention was soon turned to the importance of early using
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this opportunity of furnishing the city a park approximating in size the wants of the people.
Preparations were soon made for the commencement of work upon the reservoir. Two years ago, matters had taken such a shape that the improvement of the ground for park purposes had commenced. On the 8th day of January, 1869, the city council, by a vote of thirty-one to six, adopted a resolution authorizing the purchase of additional lands, embracing twelve acres belonging to Washington McLean, for which one hundred and twenty-five thousand dollars were paid ; four and one-fourth acres of Joseph Whittaker, for one hundred thousand dollars; and nineteen acres of the estate of Nicholas Longworth, for which the city was to pay an annual ground rent of fifty-five hundred dollars. The purchase of six acres from John Bates was also authorized, which, added to the remainder of the pur- chases; and to the six acres of the work-house lot, made two hundred and three and a quarter acres, thus increasing the area of the park about thirty- three per cent.
During the past year a great deal of work has been done on the grounds, and the wonderful beauty of the place is becoming more and more apparent as the plans for its improvement are developed. The main approach is from the intersection of the Lebanon and Montgomery roads, by an avenue one hundred feet wide, to Gilbert avenue. This leads directly to the park, which is entered by a broad avenue that at once introduces the visitor to the extraordinary beauties of the place. Another approach is from Kem- per lane, along Nassau street, which was opened and improved in the year 1869 from Kemper lane to Gilbert avenue; thence by Glade (formerly Fulton) avenue, a newly-improved street, leading directly from Nassau street to the northern entrance of the park. As soon as the upper end of Gilbert avenue is completed, the park can be reached from that direction along the same streets by which it is now approached from Kemper lane.
Still another approach is from the intersection of Kemper lane with Nas- sau street directly across to the plateau. This, however, is temporary, the commissioners having projected a road from Park avenue to the plateau,
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crossing Kemper lane over a bridge fifty feet above that street. This will be the main entrance from the east, and will lead to two avenues now being constructed-one along the river side of the park, and the other skirting a depression that passes through that part of the grounds. There will be at least four main avenue through the grounds, part of which have already been completed. They are broad streets that have been well macadamized and then covered with gravel, smoothness being thus added to solidity.
The avenues pass through the grounds in the most advantageous manner. When it is remembered that these lands are over three hundred feet above the river and lower parts of the city, the reader need not be informed that the prospect in all directions is such as can be procured from few eleva- tions rising in the midst of a city. The river; the miles of distant hills extending along the Kentucky side of the stream ; the less remote high lands of Ohio, rolling away in multitudinous waves of improved lands; the suburbs of the city to the north and east, and the city at the foot of the hill, teeming with its busy thousands, make up a prospect so rare that it may be said the park, for location, hardly has its peer. The avenues meander by graceful curves through the grounds, at every turn shutting out something the visitor has just seen, but revealing another landscape filled with new beauties.
Allusion has been made to the great reservoir constructing here, from which the larger part of the city, by the year 1871, will be supplied with water. This much-needed work, that will so increase the facilities of the waterworks as to enable them to furnish the whole city with water free from the mud and other foreign matter which now renders it turbid during much of the year, will also bring additional charms to the park. It will embrace about fourteen acres, and will have a capacity of one hundred mil- lion gallons, or about twenty times the capacity of the old reservoir. It will be divided into two compartments, so that when it is desirable to remove the water from one, the other will be able to continue the supply to the city. In the construction of this work advantage has been taken of the configuration of the lands, so that all sides of the reservoir save that next
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the Ohio river, will be supported by natural banks. The retaining wall, which has been thrown across the depression to make the basin, is about seven hundred feet in length and one hundred and nine feet in hight from the lowest foundations. At the base this piece of masonry is forty- seven feet thick, and at the top wide enough to allow the construction of a carriage drive twenty feet in width. The reservoir will be rendered water-tight by a lining of concrete one foot in thickness, composed of broken stone, gravel, sand, and cement. When filled, the water in the reservoir will be twenty-five feet in depth. Running under the reservoir will be six sewers, ranging in diameter from two to six feet each, that will not only serve to carry off the surface water of the park, but will also be so arranged as to receive the water of the reservoir when it may become necessary to entirely remove the contents from one or the other of the compartments. The influent pipe, forty inches in diameter, will be taken up Martin street, and will empty the water into the bottom of the reservoir on the north-east side of the basin. The water will be taken from the top of the reservoir, on the south-west side, two hundred and thirty- three feet above the Ohio river, and will be conducted through an effluent pipe, thirty inches in diameter, along Martin street. Another pipe, forty inches in diameter, will ultimately be laid to Hunt street, either through a tunnel or a cut made in the hill for this purpose.
This reservoir is intended to supply all the city north of Fourth street, while the old one will furnish the remainder, in each case the water being pure. A carriage way will pass entirely around it, and the whole will add greatly to the beauty of the place. The work of engineering from the first, both for the reservoirs and the park, has been under the direction of Henry Earnshaw, hydraulic engineer of the waterworks, aided by Joseph Earnshaw, his assistant. The Park Commissioners are Truman B. Handy, Charles F. Wilstach, and Jacob Elsas.
The improvements of the grounds are entirely in charge of A. Strauch, Superintendent of Parks, who has so distinguished himself in the manage- ment and adornment of Spring Grove Cemetery.
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The importance of this work to Cincinnati can hardly be over-estimated. Besides developing contiguous territory and bringing large additions upon the grand duplicate for taxation, it doubtless will become one of the grand- est parks in any country, and one of the most popular resorts. Such being the case, it must have an important bearing upon the growth and prosper- ity of Walnut Hills, with which it is so intimately connected.
The rapid increase in the value of real estate on Walnut Hills and vicinity has been alluded to as this chapter progressed. There has been a steady advance in price, justified by the great changes which the past three years have accomplished. During this period, which has been the transi- tion state of this place from the incorporated village to the city, Walnut Hills has been rising in public estimation. Many buildings have been erected, and the growth of the place has been steady and healthful. Every where there have been indications of progress. The increase in the number of dwelling houses has been noticeable. Not a few of this class are inexpensive structures. They are, however, comfortable and neat. They are the homes of the mechanic and the laborer. They do not belong to the rich, but the occupants represent the toiling thousands from whom the riches of the world primarily proceed. The presence of so many of the humbler class of dwellings in our suburbs admonishes the landlords below that the day of exorbitant rents will soon be past; that since the hill has been fairly attained, Hamilton county is open for settlement. It is the murmur of approaching population-the prelude to important changes which are to occur in the distribution of our population.
WOODBURN.
N THE preceding chapter, the early history of Walnut Hills was traced with sufficient particularity to render unnecessary an extended notice of the circumstances under which the colonies of this place have been established.
The reader has seen how Walnut Hills, early famous as the seat of Lane Seminary, attracted population that gathered first in the vicinity of the school, and then gradually settled upon the locations to the east, until that entire district became a suburb of the city.
Among those who early sought the more remote places was Josiah Law- rence, a well-known merchant of Cincinnati, who, about thirty years ago, purchased a farm of one hundred and ten acres on the Madisonville road, some four miles from the present court-house in Cincinnati. These lands he improved handsomely, and upon them erected a fine residence.
Not far from the same time, the Hon. Timothy Walker, Gabriel Tiche- nor, and John Baker, all now dead, came out and settled upon the same road, made valuable improvements, and removed their families. Joseph Longworth sought a location still farther to the east, going into Spencer township. Mr. Lawrence, however, remained on this place but a few years, when he sold his beautiful country home for twenty thousand dollars to Philip Grandin, an old citizen of Cincinnati, who at once removed to it and continued there until his death.
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