The suburbs of Cincinnati : sketches, historical and descriptive, Part 13

Author: Maxwell, Sidney D. (Sidney Denise), 1831-1913
Publication date: 1870
Publisher: Cincinnati : G.E. Stevens & Co.
Number of Pages: 202


USA > Ohio > Hamilton County > Cincinnati > The suburbs of Cincinnati : sketches, historical and descriptive > Part 13


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Woodburn.


This was an early period in suburban life, and there were then compara- tively few faces that were turned to the hills and the country retreats which invited them to their comfort and repose. But one after another followed these pioneers, until this locality, embracing an indefinite territory, became known as East Walnut Hills, in contradistinction to that immediately sur- rounding the Seminary, and lying between it and Cincinnati, which was called simply Walnut Hills. The former embraced the larger part of sec- tion two in Millcreek township, and section thirty-two in Spencer township, lying contiguous to and immediately east of the former, besides fractions of sections adjacent to the latter. Up to within a period of four years, the people of this district depended upon the township authorities for their gov- ernment and protection.


But valuable private improvements had been made, population was increasing, streets needed to be improved, sidewalks constructed, and a police provided, and the matter of organizing a part of East Walnut Hills into an incorporated village began to be agitated. Of course there was some opposition ; to advance in general in such enterprises, is to travel up hill and to surmount obstacles. Finally, the matter reached the courts and came up for legal adjudication, resulting at last in the success of those desir- ing the incorporation. The movement commenced in 1864, and was con- summated early in the spring of 1866. As untold embarrassments are generally met by the parents who seek a name good enough for the first- born of the family, so considerable trouble was encountered in getting a name that was good enough for the new village. Several were proposed; the subject was thoroughly canvassed, and it was eventually determined to call the new place Woodburn.


It embraces about a section of land-perhaps a very little more-taking in all of section two in Millcreek township, save a triangular bit on the south, that has been appropriated by Cincinnati. In addition to this, it has seized upon the north-east part of section eight, immediately west of it, taking out an irregular tract equal to about one-sixth of the section. It will be observed, however, that this comprises only part of what was


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known as East Walnut Hills, about the same extent of territory yet remaining due cast of Woodburn, that is still called by the former name. First, we have Walnut Hills; then, immediately east, Woodburn ; then, east of the latter, East Walnut Hills. It is necessary to be thus particular because many persons have an incorrect idea of the relative position of these places. The village is two miles north-east of the court-house, and is almost due east from Camp Washington. The Ohio approaches the main part of Cincinnati from the north-east, the northern shore opposite Wood- burn being nearly as far north as the northern boundary of Mount Auburn. Thus it can be seen how it is that the southern boundary of the village is less than a half mile from the river. The principal improvements of Woodburn are adjacent to the Madisonville turnpike, which strikes the vil- lage a short distance from its south-western boundary, and runs nearly north-east until it has passed about one-fourth the distance from the south- ern to the northern boundary ; thence, making an obtuse angle, it continues on through the village, running a few degrees north of east. From the angle alluded to, emanates the Durrell and Rusk road, now Woodburn avenue, running thence to the Montgomery turnpike, which, after passing through Walnut Hills, winds through the north-western part of Woodburn. This avenue, though an old road, has not until recently attracted particular attention. Near its junction with the Madisonville road is the residence of Henry B. Meyer, a substantial structure, upon four and a half acres of ground, all of which was purchased, three years ago, of Charles B. Foote, for twenty-five thousand dollars. Along this avenue, two years ago, a tract of land, in from two to three acre lots, was sold by Isaac Chase, at prices ranging from three thousand to four thousand dollars per acre. On these lots seven houses have been erected, that cost from four to eight thousand dollars each. On the west side of the avenue, lands belonging to the estate of Susan Elston were sold in small lots, three years ago, at auction, at from four thousand to eight thousand dollars per acre. At the end of the ave- nue Daniel Armel, an old resident of this locality, erected, in 1868, a tasteful two-story brick residence. This avenue, which is destined in a short


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Woodburn!


time to present a very different and much-improved appearance, is about four-fifths of a mile in length, and was, three years ago, graded and macad- amized. A street, which will be a continuation of Chapel street on Wal- nut Hills, running through to the Elston lands, from west to east, and intersecting Woodburn avenue, has been authorized, and, as has been stated elsewhere, will soon be opened, by which that part of Woodburn will be brought into immediate communication with the northern part of Walnut Hills.


East of the avenue, running parallel with it, is the extension of Hack- berry street, already well built from the corporation line, on the south, to the Madisonville turnpike. This is opened to within a thousand feet of the Montgomery pike on the north, and has been well macadamized, besides being supplied with a good sidewalk.


On this street, about eight years ago, Alex. Todd, Esq., erected a brick dwelling, which, with the lot of four acres upon which it stands, was worth at that time ten thousand dollars. Four years ago it sold for double this amount, which was considered by many persons an exorbitant sum ; yet the purchaser has since been offered twenty-five thousand dollars.


Leaving Hackberry street, and passing to the east on the Madisonville turnpike, one first reaches the improvements that have recently been made. These consist of a two-story brick store and dwelling, put up by Mr. Bode- ker; a brick dwelling of two stories, tasteful and attractive, erected by Joseph Seifert ; and a two-story frame building, built by J. Gassmeyar, and occupied by Miss Beaman for her private primary school.


A little farther to the west, the visitor turns into the ample grounds of the Hon. George Hoadly. Here, on about nine acres of land, well covered with fruit trees, especially the pear, of which he has an unusually large variety, the Judge erected, about ten years ago, of undressed blue lime- stone, a substantial two-story structure, that presents a pleasant appearance from the road, and commands a fine view of the river to the rear.


Immediately adjoining him on the east is the two-story frame residence of Jeptha G. Miller, with grounds of about five acres, and, like all the


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places upon the brow of the hill in this locality, commanding a fine view of the Ohio.


Next is the home of Samuel B. Keys, a handsome two-story brick edi- fice, with tower, erected in 1853 upon a tract of about eight acres, the sit- uation and surroundings of which are very attractive.


Next, proceeding eastwardly, are the more spacious grounds belonging to the estate of the late John Baker, which are laid out in an exceedingly tasteful manner-not, in this respect, having their superior in the village. Like the residences generally on either side of the road, the buildings are well back from the thoroughfare, and immediately north of the point where the land begins to break in the direction of the river. The building was erected in 1853, of brick, two stories in hight, with a variety about the architecture that is unusually pleasing. To the east a broad, airy veranda extends the full width of the building, and looks out upon the thick forest trees and the river upon the one hand, and the spacious and ornamented grounds upon the other.


Immediately adjoining the Baker property, without any thing to mark the line of demarcation, are the premises of William Hooper. Here, on twenty-three acres of land, the larger part of which cost him, in 1861, about one thousand dollars per acre, Mr. Hooper erected, in the following year, a costly residence. The material is brick, with quoins of brown stone. The building is one hundred feet front by forty-five feet in depth, with complete French roof and tower. The length, which would otherwise impair its beauty, is entirely relieved by wings which are slightly retired, the space on the west of the center being quite filled by a veranda, the roof of which is supported by slender pillars terminating in arches. On the south of the center of the building is a broad, airy veranda, looking out upon the grassy slope that declines in the direction of the river, and from which the splendid panorama to the south can be perpetually enjoyed. The drawing room, forty-five by twenty-five feet, terminates on the south in a bay window, consisting of three large plates of French glass, the relation of each to the other being such that the landscape seen through either is


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Goodburn.


entirely distinct. The house inside is finished with white walnut, while the handsomely-tinted walls and the frescoed ceilings are fresh from the hand of one of the best artists. The latter, in the drawing room, has not its superior in any of the public or private rooms of the county. The building fronts upon the spacious grounds, covered with a heavy growth of forest trees, and is approached from the north along a circular drive and through a porte cochere.


The location is one of the most picturesque upon the river, and from it is constantly enjoyed a landscape of the rarest interest. Below is the valley, with its beautiful stone church, supporting the sacred emblem of the Chris- tian faith ; beyond, the distant Kentucky hills, with villages nestled at their feet ; to the west, the lower parts of Cincinnati and the dim outlines of the suspension bridge; above, the villages of Pendleton and Columbia, with the adjacent valleys and distant highlands; and, more beautiful than all, the river, like a silver crescent burnished by the sun, reflecting in sharp out- lines the adjacent shores. Then, each hour there is something new. Boats come and go, pass and repass, revealing their fretted wakes by day, and gleaming with hundreds of lights by night. It is a panoramic spectacle which will not allow the interest of the beholder to abate, and to which he will return, always to find some change that contributes to his enjoy- ment.


The last improvement on the south of the road, before passing the eastern limits of the village, is that of Edmund Dexter, consisting of about eight acres of land, and a fine brick dwelling, built in 1852, by Samuel W. Pomeroy.


On the north side of the road, nearly opposite the property of Mr. Dex- ter is the residence of Mrs. Perkins, widow of the late Rev. J. H. Perkins, built about twenty years ago, by Charles W. Elliott, who at that time had here a horticultural garden. The grounds, six acres in extent, decline slightly to the northward, and are the seat of the school of Dr. Nathan E. Soule, of which more will be said elsewhere.


Dr. Charles Woodward, immediately to the west, has four acres, upon


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Suburbs of Cincinnati.


which he has erected a frame dwelling of two stories, that is one of the very few whose owner has had the courage and good rural taste to paint white. Peering through the green foliage, the pure white is in pleasant contrast with all its surroundings.


Next is the property of twelve acres belonging to the estate of the late Hon. Timothy Walker. The house is of blue limestone, irregular, but not unpleasant in its outline, two stories, roomy and substantial, and is reached by a circular drive through a grove of fruit and shade trees. Upon the undulating lands to the rear, and immediately around the house, are trees of the native forest, that give the place an air of rural quiet, from which one turns away with regret. Upon this property, near the turnpike, Mrs. Walker has recently erected a neat two-story frame dwelling, now occupied by Seth Thompson.


Following the road to the west, the visitor next enters the premises of W. W. Scarborough ; and as he passes up the circular drive, enjoying the shade of the grand old forest trees that have been spared from the wood- man's ax, and notices the well-filled conservatory, the cultivated garden, the fruit trees, the spacious brick stables and complete appointments about the premises, he will not have to be told that this forty-acre tract is owned by a gentleman of singularly good taste. The dwelling is a spacious brick edi- fice, erected in 1853, with an open veranda that looks out upon diversified grounds, and with convenient interior arrangements and elegant finish and appointments. These premises have a different kind of beauty from those upon the Ohio. There is no river view, but there are no reminders that you are in a busy, fretful world. The lands sweep away to the north, and farms and villages upon distant highlands are revealed. It is a delightful rural home, where perfect retirement is procured, and where an air of repose, like a good genius, seems everywhere to reign.


Immediately adjoining Mr. Scarborough's, on the west, is the home of Charles Dexter- ten acres of land, and a dwelling partly of wood, but mainly of undressed blue limestone. Six years ago this property was pur- chased for twenty thousand dollars. Two years afterward it was sold for


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Woodburn.


thirty thousand dollars, having increased fifty per cent. in value in that period.


The next, and last of importance, upon this side of the road that has not been enumerated, is that of Joshua H. Bates. The premises embrace twelve acres of land, upon which, at a considerable distance from the road, is a two-story frame residence, with Mansard roof, and veranda on the south the full length of the building. The premises are attractive, the drives well constructed and neatly kept, and all the surroundings indicative of culture and taste.


Though the improvements along Forest avenue are not, in fact, a part of Woodburn, being within the corporate limits of Cincinnati, still they legiti- mately belong to the former, and ought, at least in general terms, to be alluded to in this connection. Forest avenue begins at Walnut Hills and descends the elevation peculiar to this locality, skirting the hill upon the one side, and yet by no means getting down upon the level of the railroad upon the other until reaching Torrence road, east of Mr. Hooper's. The first valuable improvement to the right is that of the Hon. J. C. Collins, a new two-story edifice of blue limestone, occupying a prominent position and presenting an appearance both elegant and imposing. Near his own, but farther to the east, the Judge has erected a sightly frame dwelling of two stories.


Between these premises and those upon the east, a street is now construct- ing from Forest avenue through to Front street on the south, and, when completed, it is proposed to extend this through to the Madisonville turn- pike. There appears to be a natural opening in the hills for the latter improvement. This would add another way of approach from Cincinnati, as well as from points above, besides affording the citizens of Woodburn direct communication with both the Little Miami railroad and the street cars.


Beyond the new street, to which allusion has been made, is the dwelling of Rev. W. Van Vleck, a new frame edifice, erected amid a profusion of for- est trees, upon an elevated point of land that looks down upon the river


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Suburbs of Cincinnati.


upon the one side, and the avenue upon the other. Mr. Van Vleck has also recently built two handsome frame dwellings of two stories, with Mansard roof, a short distance from his own residence. Of these, the one next the city has been purchased by A. B. Merriam; the other by Mrs. Charles Davenport.


On the north side of Forest avenue, are the residences of Mrs. Howard Matthews and Charles Matthews, both of them frame edifices, pleasantly located upon the slope, and surrounded by shrubbery and shade trees.


At the north-east corner of Hackberry street and Forest avenue, princi- pally within the limits of Woodburn, are the premises of Joseph Kleine, upon which there is a good brick residence, occupied by the owner, besides several pretty brick dwellings adjacent, which were built for tenants.


Here, too, on the east side of Hackberry street, Frederick Kleine has erected a handsome two-story residence. The house, which inclines to the Norman in its architecture, is finished with ample verandas and other con- veniences and adornments.


On Hackberry street and Forest avenue, George H. Uphoff, within the past two years, has put up a tasteful two-story brick dwelling of unusually good proportions. On the west side of Hackberry street there have been erected also, of late, a number of very comfortable dwellings, some of which are, indeed, quite tasteful.


On the Montgomery pike, which runs north-easterly through the north- western part of the village, are the lands, sixty acres in extent, of Samuel Beresford, upon which he erected a roomy and attractive residence two years ago.


The Mathers homestead, and that of William Durrell, on the same road, are both buildings that have been erected many years. The mansion house of Charles Hewitt, on the one hand, and the one originally erected by Sam- uel Beresford on the other, though of less age, were built before emigration had turned in this direction.


On the left of the Madisonville pike, as it approaches from the south, and before its intersection with Woodburn avenue, Francis B. Williams, ten


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years ago, erected upon his twenty-acre tract, an excellent two-story brick residence that cost about fifteen thousand dollars.


Adjoining the place of Mr. Williams, on the west, are the splendid flower gardens and nursery of Joseph S. Cook, well known as one of the leading floral establishments of the country.


CHURCHES, SCHOOLS, AND STREETS.


Near the south-western boundary of the village, on Hackberry street, is St. Francis' Church, a beautiful stone edifice, belonging to the German Catholics. It was originally erected about twenty-five years ago, and has been materially enlarged and improved within the last twelve years. It is attended exclusively by Germans, who have a settlement about the church of neat homes and pleasant surroundings, and who are distinguished for their earnestness in the encouragement of every thing that has for its object the peace and good government of the community.


There is no Protestant church within the corporate limits. It is claimed there are in Walnut Hills edifices quite sufficient to accommo- date the three villages, and, too, that these are so convenient that at present the necessity does not exist for additional facilities of this kind. This may all be quite true; still, one can not but feel, in passing through these beau- tiful grounds, that additional church spires would add much to the beauty of the place, and would give the locality an increased charm to persons seeking homes in the country, besides affording the citizens of both Wood- burn and East Walnut Hills an opportunity of attending church and Sab- bath-school without being compelled always to call their carriages into requisition.


There are at present four schools in the village, with a prospect of the fiftlı. The classical school of Dr. Nathan Soule, for boys, in which special attention is given to fitting them for college, has been in operation about four years, and is one of the best of the kind in the West. The accommo- dations are sufficient only for about twenty scholars, and are by no means equal to the high character of the institution.


1


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Suburbs of Cincinnati.


There is also the well-managed public school, in charge of A. G. Weath- erby, with one assistant, held in a good two-story brick edifice on Wood- burn avenue.


In addition to these is the primary school of Miss Alice Beaman, with good accommodations for about sixteen scholars.


The fourth school is connected with St. Francis' Church, and is attended by many children of this suburb.


The Madisonville turnpike, which is the main avenue, is owned by gentlemen interested in property along the road, who expend the profits derived therefrom in keeping the thoroughfare in admirable repair. Side- walks have been constructed through the village along the entire route, so that this has become a beautiful avenue. Allusion has already been made to the street improvements on Woodburn avenue and those in progress on Hackberry street, and in a preceding chapter to Columbia avenue, which is to become a grand outlet for the city in this direction.


The approaches to Woodburn are the same as those to East Walnut Hills. At present the great route is by way of Hunt street and the Mont- gomery and Madisonville turnpikes. The completion of Gilbert avenue will be of no less advantage to Woodburn than to Walnut Hills, and will, with Columbia avenue, give ample facilities for reaching this delightful suburb. Omnibuses run every hour during the day to Woodburn from the corner of Sycamore and Fifth streets, and to this public facility for reaching the place a street railroad will doubtless be constructed soon after the com- pletion of Gilbert avenue.


The following are the municipal officers for 1870 :


Mayor-JOSHUA H. BATES.


Council-HON. GEORGE HOADLY, RICHARD MATHERS, J. H. OVER- BECK, B. H. BODEKER, JAMES BELL, GEORGE ELSTON.


Clerk-JOHN B. ENNEKING.


Treasurer-LAMBERT HEEMANN.


Marshal-THOMAS CONWAY.


CONCLUSION


HE preceding chapters embrace descriptions of some of the most important suburbs of Cincinnati, and all that were immediately contemplated when this work was projected. But the list is by no means exhausted. Indeed, numerically, far more remain than have been noticed. It is not within the compass of this volume to enter into a detailed history and description of any other place; yet there are many other localities about Cincinnati that, on account of their historical importance or future prospects, should not be passed without at least a notice.


Columbia.


Among this number is the village of Columbia, which, for historical inter- est, scarcely has its superior in the state. It is situated on the Ohio river, about four miles east of Main street, in Cincinnati, and one mile below the mouth of the Little Miami river. Here was made the second settlement in Ohio; and on one of the graceful knolls was erected what is claimed to have been the first Protestant house of worship in the North-west territory. Just above the site of the present village of Columbia the hills open, and through one of the most charming valleys that our country affords, the Little Miami approaches the Ohio from the north. This beautiful location, now teeming with well-cultivated fields and valuable improvements, and


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Suburbs of Cincinnati.


musical with the passage of great railroad trains, was discovered by Captain Benjamin Stites, while in pursuit of a party of Indians who had stolen horses near Maysville, Kentucky. Remembering the beauty of the place, he determined to seek a location here; and in November, 1788, in company with from twenty to twenty-five others, landed near the mouth of the Little Miami.


The church to which reference has been made was first organized at the residence of Benjamin Davis, under the direction of the Rev. Stephen Gano, on the 20th day of January, 1790. Two years thereafter they began the erection of a house of worship, which was completed in 1793. Attending public service in these days was not walking upon roses and drowsing upon velvet cushions in peace and security. Able-bodied men carried their arms, and sentinels watched hostile Indians while the services proceeded.


This may be considered the germ of Cincinnati; for, notwithstanding it soon lost its relative position after the location of the town opposite the Lick- ing river, it preceded the latter in settlement. It seems a beautiful thought, that among the earliest acts of those who were to lay the foundations of the future community was the formation of a church, under whose benign influ- ences the infant settlement was to be fostered.


But space will not allow us to linger about this spot, where the early pio- neers wrestled with the disadvantages and dangers of frontier experience, surrendering life in some instances while in defense of their new homes, and in other cases going into Indian captivity, which was scarcely less shocking. These times have passed away. Columbia was not destined to be the Queen City, though permitted finally to become one of her beautiful waiting-maids. The old church is gone, and the stones that entered into its foundations have become a part of the beautiful Baptist church which has recently been erected. The voices of those early days are heard no more, but all remembrancers are not blotted out. The old graveyard, which was adjacent to the church, is yet well preserved, with its tombstones dating back to a generation that saw this country a wilderness, and the old




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