USA > Oregon > Multnomah County > Portland > History of Portland, Oregon : with illustrations and biographical sketches of prominent citizens and pioneers > Part 5
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The act organizing the territory of Oregon will ever be memorable in our national history for two reasons: First, because of the pro- visions for public education which granted the sixteenth and thirty- sixth section in each township and forever dedicated their proceeds as an irreducible fund, the interest of which should be devoted to public schools. This was a grant twice as large as that of 1787,
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EARLY HISTORY OF OREGON.
which had previously been the precedent observed by Congress in creating territories out of the public domain. The act of 1848 now became the precedent and has ever since been observed. It gave to the original territory of Oregon over 16,000 square miles of land for public schools, and opened the way for the grant of more than 26,000,000 acres in the nine States, including Oregon, admitted to the Union since 1848. The idea of this magnificent donation, which will be of inestimable value to future generations, originated with Judge Thornton who framed the section in the territorial act, and who zealously labored to overcome the opposition it encountered at Washington. It was the inauguration of a liberal national policy in behalf of free education which should give imperishable fame to its author, a distinguished representative of the Oregon pioneers.
The other fact which marks the creation of Oregon Territory as a grand and inspiring event was the clause relating to the entire and absolute exclusion of chattel slavery. This was in accord with the general wish of the pioneers. Their new empire on the Pacific; their toil to win it; their test of self goverment, all bore the seal of liberty. In putting slavery under perpetual ban in Oregon the whole region from the Rocky Mountains to the Pacific, was under pledge for the rights of man regardless of color or race.
Thus briefly have we attempted to summarise the leading events in Oregon, from the time of the first explorations along the Pacific Coast till, under the strong hand of the whole nation, it rose from the weakness of a humble colony of adventurers to the rank and power of a co-ordinate member of the American Union. The event which the old pioneers had so long waited and hoped for had come and they were no longer counted exiles on a doubtful domain, but rightful fellow heirs and owners of the country.
That the United States is indebted to the pioneers for the confirm- ation of its title to the American possessions west of the Rocky Mountains, will, perhaps, never be questioned. To the pioneer is due all the honor mankind willingly gives to the founders of States and the creators of civilization in savage lands. But that these were the motives which led to the colonization of Oregon, as some writers have intimated, is contradicted by patent facts and contrary to common sense. The early emigrants did not undertake the toilsome
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HISTORY OF PORTLAND.
journey across the plains in the face of dangers and privations animated by a patriotic desire to save this land to the United States and plant the banner of republican liberty on the shores of the Pacific. For the most part they were men of limited means who sought a country where the restraints of civil and social institutions would press less hard upon individual freedom, and who in their plain way would have answered an inquiry for their motive in coming west with the common response that they had come to better their fortunes and in order that their children might "grow up with the country." They were actnated by the same strong courage that has character- ized the enterprising frontiersmen in all our States. Circumstances called them to act a part which, in the light of subsequent events, is shown to have been of the utmost importance, securing to their country dominion over a vast empire.
If, however, they did not come with an inspiration as absorbing as that which moved the old crusaders, it was one far more intelli- gent-an inspiration to seize the golden moments when peacefully, with their small means, they might possess themselves of homes, where prudence and economy after some discipline of pioneer hard- ship and privation would be sure of just rewards, and where ample means for the nurture and education of their children should be within the reach of every industrious citizen. Animated by high purposes they laid the foundations of this commonwealth in industry, frugality and the domestic virtnes, and their descendants who enjoy all the blessings of their toils and privations, their trials and danger, will hold them in loving remembrance.
For the purposes of this work it is unnecessary to follow the further steps of these State builders, whose prudence, loyalty and conrage saved Oregon to the Union. In the fullness of time Oregon was decked with the honors of Statehood under the same perpetual dedication to equal rights and universal liberty for which its founders had so nobly battled. Its people may well take pride in the State, whether they contemplate it simply in its own greatness, or in com- parison with other States. In the main its record is a clear one, bearing npon it few marks that one would care to erase. It has been steadily advancing with strong and even pace, and has more than kept good the wonderful promise of its earliest years.
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POSITION AND ADVANTAGES.
CHAPTER II. POSITION AND ADVANTAGES OF PORTLAND.
The Modern City-A More Perfect Adaptation to Human Wants-Value of the Records of Such a City as Portland-Geographical Position-At the Intersection of the Great Natural Lines of Travel and Commerce of the Northwest Pacific Coast- Topography-Extent and Beauty of Surface-Natural Advantages for Commerce, for Manufacturing, for Residence-The Natural Center of the North Pacific Coast.
LTHOUGH of a different order, the history of the modern city A should be no less interesting than that of an ancient metropolis like Jerusalem or Athens. It treats no less of human endeavor, and no less segregates and epitomizes human life. If that in which men busy themselves, and that which they produce is anywhere, or at any time, calculated to attract attention and demand investigation and analysis, why not here in Oregon, on the banks of the Willamette, as well as five to ten thousand miles away, in Spain or in Turkey?
Unlike the ancient or medieval city, it does not embrace within its walls-in fact, boasting no walls-the whole life and history of a people. The Roman Empire without Rome would be like Hamlet withont Hamlet. But America without New York City would still be America, lacking only some million and a half of people. In our modern life the process of civil and social organization has gone so far that the center of supreme interest is in the whole confederation, in the whole national life, or broadly, in the people themselves, and not restricted to any one locality, individual or race. It would, there- fore, be impossible to discover in any one American city a civil or political principle apart from that of the surrounding country. Fur- thermore, the motives or inducements that led to the building of a city in bygone times were unlike those of the present. Then a town was established by a tribe who first believed, or soon assumed that all its members had a common descent from some hero, or some patri- arch, or from some divinity, who was still patron and guardian. They threw around themselves the walls of a city in order to be secure from dispersion and from intermixture with the rest of mankind, and to have a place where they might cultivate their own religion, practice their own customs, celebrate their own festivals, and rear their children
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HISTORY OF PORTLAND.
in their own traditions. For this purpose they chose a secure retreat, where they might easily put up fortifications, and cover the approaches by forts or walls. A cliff, a peak, or some huge rock, commended itself to their purposes. Jerusalem was set upon a high hill sur- rounded by mountains. The Acropolis in Athens, a rocky eminence with level top and steep sides, was the site of the original city. At Rome the Tarpeian Rock and kindred heights fixed the site of the mistress of the world. The termination "Tun," or "Ton " ('Town), of many cities throughout England signifies a rock or bluff, and the "Burg" of the Germans has a kindred meaning; all going to show how the people in old times, and almost to the present, were accus- tomed to look around for a hill or crag as a site for their tribal or family seat. Round about these bluffs and hilltops the cities grew. Those cities which were successful gained in population by simple natural increase, or by means of raiding of other tribes and bringing in captives, who were set to work upon the outlying fields, in the shops, in erecting fortifications, or in constructing royal palaces. Free migration was practically unknown; for, although the citizens of one city might go on military or commercial, or occasional literary excur- sions to other places, it was unusual for them to abjure their rights in their native seat, or to acquire privileges elsewhere. The ancient city was a social aggregation which had its origin in an intense tribal idea, dominating religion and controlling social life, naturally allying itself to a military type, since only by force of arms could its existence be preserved or its dominion be extended. Commerce was a second- ary or even more remote consideration, and the free exchange of residence was, with few exceptions, impossible.
How unlike all this is a modern American town! A city here is but a spot where population is more dense than elsewhere. The residents claim no blood relationship, have no common traditions or religion, and seek its limits only from eligibility of life. The wants of commerce or manufacturing chiefly determine its site, while all the uses and advantages of existence add their interest. There is absolutely 110 compulsion, either of ancestry, religion, tradition, social or political necessity; or fear of death, slavery, or loss of standing, or of wealth, impelling an American to live in one corporation rather than another,
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POSITION AND ADVANTAGES.
or to forsake the fields for the city. The arm of law rests over each of the seventy million inhabitants of the United States, and upon every acre of the national domain. Upon the high seas also, and in fact, in almost every part of the world, every American feels the potent protection of the flag of his country. Residence is therefore simply a matter of personal choice. One suits his place of abode to his business, to his aim in life, or to his physicial or moral necessity. If his object be the acquisition of wealth he goes where he can get money fastest. If he have some special field of labor, as invention, art, or literature, he seeks that center which affords him the highest advantages. Some are guided to a choice by a religious or philan- thropic mission to which they have deemed themselves called. Multitudes have no other incentive than an eagerness for amusement, or excitement, or the attraction of noise, and the exhiliration of being in a large place. The motive which impels the moving crowd on the street to press as near as possible to the scene of an accident or of excitement causes the more mercurial in the community to betake themselves to a large city in order to be near the animating events of the time as they occur. But without exhaustive enumeration, it need only be remembered that whether the motive of residence be grave or trifling, it is wholly free, and accordant with the aimns and uses of the individual life.
The growth of the city in our times is therefore much more than of old an accommodation to human wants and needs. Although the purpose to live in a certain municipality may, in many cases, spring from sordidness, in any case the choice is inade from some sort of personal attraction which frequently, perhaps commonly, rises to a feeling of affection, making the attachment of our citizens to their cities one of almost passionate energy. No ancient city ever com- manded from its most eminent people a more enthusiastic devotion than is accorded to our American cities by those who dwell in themn; and in none of our urban life is found a half or two-thirds of the population held by chains to a locality that is hateful to then.
In modern times the principal thing that determines the building of a city at a particular place is the fact that at the point of its site the requirements of human life are found to exist in greater abundance
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HISTORY OF PORTLAND.
than elsewhere in the near surroundings. Its growth is but the unfolding of its natural advantages; together with the attractions, facilities, and amenities that may be added by man. The natural ad- vantages, however, are the dominating principle, since improvements will not and indeed can never be added to any great extent where there is a natural obstacle. In the fierce competition of modern life, natural advantages will play more and more a controlling part. The man who can lift one pound more than his antagonist will just as surely surpass him as if the difference were one hundred pounds. The city that has commercial or manufacturing advantages over others of even a small part of one per cent will make that advantage tell in every transaction, and this will be just the feather that turns the scale. However great may be the enterprise of the opponent, or however willing it may be of sacrifice, it will find itself at last beyond its strength and its hopes must perish.
In this view the growth of a modern city is of vast interest; necessarily so to the business inan, for he must know precisely what are those circumstances which give empire to a town. Otherwise, he will fail to make the best investments. To the student of human life and social science it is no less attractive, for he is thereby assured of the laws or principle which guides the human mind when acting individually and freely. It also illustrates how nature, and through nature providence, is the maker of the centers of our modern life, and thereby, determines, or predetermines, the lines and bounds of civilization.
In entering, therefore, upon this history of Portland as we withdraw our view from the larger circle of the early history of Oregon, we should not be understood as regarding it worthy of occupying a sphere of equal size with that of the nation, or of some ancient city which filled the Old World; but as treating of human action in an interesting phase, and as making clear what has been done in a city which will one day play an important part in the progress of our country. It will be nothing against it, that, as in a home or family it treats of men that we have known personally. History in all departments is ever pushing more closely to the roots of individual life, and what was once deemed beneath the dignity of
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POSITION AND ADVANTAGES.
the historian's pen, as altogether too insignificant for notice, is 110w eagerly studied as making clear the progress of events. The crown and scepter and the false magnificence of antique pomp have at last fallen from the pages of history and the every day doings of people on the streets, in their homes and fields are seen to contain the potency of civilization. No human feelings or motives are despised, but are all recognized as the fountain from which are gathered the stately river of national life and social advancement. In no place can these primary endeavors be better examined or comprehended than in a young city like Portland.
GEOGRAPHICAL POSITION AND TOPOGRAPHY.
The western side of North America is laid out on a large scale, a land of the "Jotuns," a region of magnificent distances. It fronts the largest ocean; it has the most ample harbors, it is built out of the inost continuous mountain ranges, and is watered by great rivers. It has large valleys and immense plateaus. Its geographical sections, the portions naturally connected by a coast, river, or moun- tain system, are wide and long, but the points which command natural ingress and egress to and from any one such section are comparatively few. Thus, on the whole of California's coast line of six hundred miles or more, there is but one natural exit to the sea, and but one point from which the whole region may be touched direct. But that point, San Francisco, commands the situation perfectly.
The mountain formation of the region north of California, giving character to the whole of Oregon and Washington, possesses a simi- lar integrity. It has a geometrical precision which all the variations of lateral ranges, lone peaks and inter-ranges, do not materially modify. Upon the eastern boundary the Rocky Mountains, which form the crest of the continent, set off by itself the Valley of the Columbia. The Cascade Mountains lying two hundred to three hundred miles westward of the Rocky range forin the opposite rim of the basin making space for one of the most extensive, impressive, varied and fertile sections in the entire world. On the south, near the Oregon line, the elevated plains rise up in the Nevada Deserts,
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HISTORY OF PORTLAND.
and on the north far above the boundary of British Columbia the Selkirk Mountains and the Gold Range draw a jagged line between the waters of the Columnbia and those of the Thompson and Fraser. When it is remembered that this Columbia Basin-perhaps four hundred by eight hundred miles in extent-is circled round by mountains of primitive rocks, bearing deposits of gold and veins of silver; beds of iron and of coal of unknown extent; lead, copper, and the other useful metals; and hills of marble, serpentine and other building stones; with abundant stores of gypsum and other sulphates; one will perceive what a seat of empire is embraced within these ranges. Moreover, on the top of these rocks, and in the illuvial valleys between is spread as fertile a soil as the world knows.
The Cascade Mountains make almost a straight line from south to north; high, steep and turreted by a score of volcanic peaks which always wear the ermine of sovereignty.
A hundred miles west of the Cascade Mountains is the lower but nevertheless eminent Coast Range presenting headlands to the sea and making difficult any passage inland from the ocean shore.
As the most striking and, to this work, the most pertinent geo- graphical feature is the series of valleys from California to Puget Sound, lying between the Cascade and Coast Mountains and swelling or contracting to a width not far from fifty miles from west to east. Here are the Willamette, the Umpqua and the Rogue River Valleys in Oregon. In Washington the valleys of the Lewis River, the Chehalis, the Cowlitz; of the Puyallup, and of the Snoqualamie; with the gravel plains about the head of Puget Sound. All are of extra- ordinary beanty and almost universally fertile, and the sheltered passage way which they form within the ranges will be like an imperial roadway from north to south. Indeed this raceway of travel and commerce does not stop at either Puget Sound on the north or the Siskiyou Mountains on the California border toward the south. It continues northward down Puget Sound, through the waterways of the Georgian Gulf and the straits and passages of Western Alaska to the far north-the region of fish, of furs, and mountains of precious metals. At the other extremity it crosses the back of the Siskiyou Mountains and passes through the valleys of California, finding easy
X
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POSITION AND ADVANTAGES.
exit upon the waters of the Gulf of California. This passage by land and water of two thousand miles through some of the most charming and productive portions of the western world will necessa- rily pulsate with the tides of trade and travel.
Now, to focalize our view, if we draw a line from the head of the Gulf of California to Mt. St. Elias in Alaska, by this chain of valleys and waterways, where do we find a cross line opening from the ocean to the Rocky Mountains, and allowing trade and travel to pass east and west as well as north and south? This cross line has been determined by the channel of flowing waters drawn from the Rocky Mountains across the Cascade and Coast Ranges to the Pacific-the Columbia River. A line of two thousand miles, a cross line of five hundred miles-these will ever be the thoroughfares of commerce and travel on the western Pacific shore. What is the natural place for the commercial metropolis of the region ? At the point of inter- section of the two. This is the geographical position of Portland. Although on the banks of the Willamette, she is also practically on the banks of the Columbia, her business portion constantly extending towards the imperial river. This, then is the most comprehensive description of Portland's geographical situation-At the cross-roads of a natural depression from California to Alaska and of the pathway of the Columbia from the Rocky Mountains to the Pacific Ocean.
To define her position in more particular terms, she is located in latitude forty-five degrees and thirty minutes north; longitude one hundred and twenty-two degrees and twenty-seven minutes west on the left bank of the Willamette River, twelve iniles below the Falls of that stream at Oregon City, and ten iniles above its confluence with the Columbia. It is one hundred and ten miles from the city by the Willamette and Columbia Rivers to the debouchure of the latter stream into the Pacific. As for distance to other well known points, it is about seven hundred miles to San Francisco by water, six hundred by rail; to the Cascades of the Columbia it is sixty iniles; to the Dalles, ninety miles; to Walla Walla, two hundred and forty-five miles; to Spokane Falls, three hundred and seventy; to Lewiston, three hundred and fifty; to Salt Lake City, nine hundred; to Helena, Montana, seven hundred and fifty; to Chicago, two
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HISTORY OF PORTLAND.
thousand four hundred; to New York, three thousand three hundred. On the north to Olympia by rail it is one hundred and twenty iniles; to Tacoma, one hundred and fifty; to Seattle, one hundred and eighty; to Port Townsend, two hundred and fifty; to Victoria, three hundred; to Vancouver, B. C., four hundred; to Sitka, nine hundred; On the south to Salem, the capital of Oregon, it is fifty mniles; to Eugene City, the site of the State University, one hundred and twenty-five; to Roseburgh, in the Umpqua Valley, two hundred; to Jacksonville, in Rogue River Valley, three hundred.
Portland sits at the mouth of the Willamette Valley, and practi- cally at the mouth of the Columbia Basin. To pass from San Francisco by rail to Puget Sound, or vice versa, one must go by Portland. To pass by water from the sea coast to the Inland Empire, as the Columbia Basin is sometimes termed, one must pass Portland. Take a map, make Portland a center, and draw from this center lines along the natural gaps and depressions to other parts of the Pacific Northwest, and there will be formed a circle of which these lines are approximately the radii.
Topographically considered Portland is laid out by nature on a scale commensurate with the geographical environment of which she is the center. All along the south bank of the Columbia, and the west bank of the Willamette, from the ocean for more than one hundred miles, even to the Falls of the Willamette at Oregon City, there is a range of low mountains or hills, lying almost the entire distance against the waters of these rivers and in many places jutting upon them in a heads and escarpinents. These highlands, for fifty miles of their distance from the sea, are the broken terminals of the Coast Mountains, laid open by the flow of the Columbia. For the remainder of their extent they break down into lower elevations, known as the Scappoose Hills, or still further south, as the Portland Hills. They are an older formation, containing much of sandstone and Andesite, and are in many cases wholly lacking the basaltic covering which is well nigh universal in this northwestern region. At the mouth of the Willamette one finds a delta, which on the south, is embraced by the arm of the river that was formerly called in the Indian language by the liquid name of Multnomah. From
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POSITION AND ADVANTAGES.
this water, now termed Willamette Slough, which separates the largest of the islands of the delta from the main land, the hills rise abruptly, with but a narrow strip of alluvial soil unfit for building. Following up this slough to its point of departure from the inain river, the hills still impend upon the west, their natural abruptness being much emphasized by the dense growth of evergreen forests whose unbroken wall of tops add some hundreds of feet to their apparent altitude. At a point ten miles from the mouth of the Willamette, however, one finds a great bend in the river, which now comes directly from the south, whereas, hitherto one found it flowing from the southeast. Here has been formed the site of Portland.
By the casting up of alluvium against the foot of the hills, and the formation of the river bank at some distance eastward, shallow lagoons have been formed, which during seasons of flood are united with the general flow of the river making a continuous body of water. Here are Balchi's, Guild's and Conch's Lakes. From the shore of the latter, as well as from the banks of the river, the land rises at an easy gradient, reaching at a distance of half a mile from the river a plateau one hundred feet above the level of the water. At a distance of about a inile from the river, the plateau joins abruptly the chain of hills, which here lift their fronts sharply six hundred feet above the Willamette. From Couch's Lake on the north to the end of the sloping plateau on the south, where the impending hills again approach the river, and terminate the prospect, it is a distance of two and one-half iniles. It is nowhere above a mile wide. It is moreover cleft by a small streamn coming from the west-Tanner Creek-which throws one portion of the site of the city toward the south, with rounded surface, against the foot of the southern bosses of the hill chains, and the other portion toward the north with various undulations, against the northern and more retrogradient peaks. The cleft, however, is not deep, nor abrupt, and gives a delightful and expressive variation to the face of the site. This, then, is the topography of the city-a gentle slope, rising up from the river and lake to the hills a mile back, within the elbow of the river, and under the shelter of the highlands. The plat slopes north- east, and embraces somewhat less than three square miles in area. It
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