USA > Oregon > The Oregon native son, 1900-1901 > Part 17
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THE DALLES, OREGON, 1858.
American Board for the uses and purposes of a mission, and with the un- derstanding that the missionary work would be continued on the same general lines as were then being followed throughout the Northwest. For the per- sonal property of the mission Mr. Rob- erts received six hundred dollars. No at- tempt was made to sell the land, as no title could be given. After the transfer, Dr. Whitman returned to Waiilatpu, leav- ing the mission in charge of his nephew, Perrin B. Whitman, then a youth of sev- enteen years, who remained in charge until early in December of the same year, when news of the massacre of Dr. Whitman reached him. He then aban- doned the mission, leaving the buildings
The Catholics established a mission at The Dalles in 1846. Rev. Father Bros- seau was its founder. The mission was located just west of the site of the pres- ent town: Father Mesplie succeeded Rev. Brosseau, and under his direction the old mission buildings were erected. This mission was never vacated. The In- dians at the time of the Whitman massa- cre made no demonstrations against the mission of Father Brosseau who re- mained at his post during all the excite- ment of the dangerous times that fol- lowed. The Catholic mission has grown into a large and prosperous society with excellent buildings. It has been an im- portant factor in the growth and devel- opment of The Dalles.
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THE DALLES, OREGON, 185S.
in charge of some friendly Wascos, and fled down the Columbia to escape the murderous redskins, who were greatly inflamed against the missionaries by the instigators of the massacre at Waiil- atpu.
Soon after Captain H. A. G. Lee, in command of a company of volun- teers, reached The Dalles, and oc- cupied the mission buildings. Dur- ing the continuance of the In- dian wars which followed the Whitman massacre these buildings were used for storing military supplies, and around them grew a military post. After the deatlı of General Gilliam, Lee was placed in command of the post.
The immigration from the States, now setting in, caused more of importance to attach to The Dalles, where the wagons were dissembled, and a transfer made to boats to continue the journey to the Wil- lamette. No permanent settlers were lo- cated here as yet. Many a pioneer, whose head is now white with the frost of years, will brighten as he recalls the day his wagon train rounded the bluffs out of the canyon of Five Mile creek, where be- low them laid the broad river on whose surface the journey would be completed. It was the beginning of the end; and, wearied and worn as they were with the months of privation, and toil, and hard- ships, their pulses bounded anew at the
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thoughts of reaching their journey's end. It was but a few days more and they would camp by the placid Willam- ette, whither they had been plodding during the weary months since they had parted from the last vestige of civilized life. None of these remained at The Dalles until after 1850. In the spring of 1850, about a year after the United States' authority had been extended over Oregon, Major Tucker, with three com- panies of regulars, occupied the place and selected a military reservation ten miles square. The establishment of a military post gave some assurance of protection, and shortly afterwards the first venture in a commercial line was made by John C. Bell, who came from Salem and opened a sutler's store. In 1851 he disposed of his business to Mr. Gibson. During this same year A. Mc- Kindlay, having obtained permission from the military authorities, erected a frame building and put in an excellent stock of goods. This was put in charge of Perrin B. Whitman. The constant streams of immigrants coming through, and the travel up and down the river, offered incentive for trade that betok- ened a good business point. In 1853 Messrs. Simms and Humason opened a store, and Gibson moved from the garri- son to the town which was forming.
About this time the military reserva- tion was cut down, and a number of do- nation claims were located. \V. C. Laughlin located a claim on which the eastern portion of the city is now situ- ated. W. D. Bigelow located a claim on the bluff, which now forms an addition to the city. He also opened a store, and for many years transacted a flourish- ing business. M. M. Cushing came in 1852, with the regular troops. Shortly af- terwards he severed his connection with the forces and began the erection of a frame building for a hotel. Bigelow, who had driven four posts in the ground, and nailed on a rough siding with a puncheon roof and ground floor, in which he was transacting business, laughed at Cushing. advising him that he would regret having gone to the ex-
pense of putting up a frame structure. Cushing did a good business in his build- ing, and afterwards sold it to Bigelow, who had need for larger quarters to ac- commodate his increasing trade.
Now the nucleus of a village was formed. In 1850 nothing more perma- nent than the wigwam of the Siwash was to be seen. Following the advent of the military buildings springing up, and ere long the post had an addenda of a sub- stantial village of enterprising Ameri- cans, and The Dalles may be said to have been launched as an American town.
The transportation question to the up- per Columbia from Portland early at- tracted attention. Prior to 1850 the bat- teaux of the voyageur, or the canoe of the Siwash, were about the only vessels to be seen above the Cascades. In that year F. A. Chenowith laid out a rude portage road on the Washington side of the river around the Cascades. It was built entirely of wood, the one car being hauled by a lone mule.
There were then no settlers east of the mountains, and either desiring to rid himself of the property, or despairing of its becoming a profitable investment, he disposed of it to P. T. Bradford, who re- built it to be operated in connectin with the steamer Belle between the Cascades and Portland, and the Flint on the middle river. Bradford had just commenced the reconstruction of this portage in 1856. when his workmen and others were at- tacked by the Yakima Indians. The fight that resulted forms one of the most thrilling incidents in early Oregon his- tory. It is known as the Cascades massa- cre.
It was Wednesday morning, March 26, 1856, after the men had gone to work on the railroad, that the Yakimas com- menced the attack. The whites were fired upon from ambush; the line of In- dians extending from the mouth of Rock creek to the head of the Cascades. The men, who were working, had no intima- tion of the approach of the savages, as they were lying in close shelter, and the crack of rifles and the whistling of bullets
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THE DALLES, OREGON, 1858.
came all unannounced. The first fire killed one white man and wounded sev- eral. Immediately the cry, "Indians," went up and all ran for the store, except three, who ran for the middle block- house, one and a half miles distant. Bush and his family ran into the store. Some men were at work on a warehouse being built on an island near the head of the portage road. At first confusion reigned in the store. Sinclair, of Walla Walla,
her, she was pushed clear from the bank and soon had steam enough to cross the river, where she obtained a supply of fuel, using the fence rails from Atwell's donation claim, the site of the present Cascade Locks. Then she started to The Dalles for help. The Wasco was ly- ing on the Oregon side, and soon start- ed up the river preceding the Mary. The anxious watchers, penned up in the store, saw the steamers disappear around
COLUMBIA RIVER NEAR THE DALLES.
going to the door to look out. was shot from the bank above and killed instantly. Fortunately, a short time before, nine U. S. rifles, with ammunition and cartridge boxes, had been left at the store for transportation below. These were at once gotten out and distributed to the men in the store. To those guns is due the pres- ervation of the lives of the inmates.
The steamer Mary was lying in the mouth of Rock Creek. The Indians ran toward her, but before they could reach
Wind Mountain in the distance, and were inspired to strong efforts to keep the yelling redskins off: for they knew that at The Dalles, forty-five miles away, were companies of Uncle Sam's regulars, and could the steamers once get there and back, they would be res- cued.
The savages crossed to the island where Watkins and Bailey were at work. Bailey was shot through the leg. but managed to swim across the channel and
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reached the store. Watkins was shot and badly wounded. He dragged him- self behind a sheltering rock, where he lay, protected by the guns from the store, until the arrival of the troops from The Dalles, and was then rescued, only to die from exhaustion. At night the sky was aflame with the burning mill and warehouse, fired by the Indians. Water was scarce, and the little that was in the store was soon exhausted. A few bottles of whiskey were soon used up, and from then the only water they had was ob- tained by making a dash for the river with a bucket, running the gauntlet of a shower of Indian bullets. The siege was maintained until, on the third day, the two steamers came in sight, loaded to the guards with blue coats. The boats scarcely touched the shore when, with a fierce rush, the soldiers charged the In- dian position, and drove them into head- long flight, leaving many of their num- ber dead on the field.
The region east of the Cascade range was attracting people, and this made the Columbia and its portage important as a highway. Following the Cascade massacre, and the expulsion of the In- dians, the portage about the Cascades was completed. In 1861 the road was re- laid with iron rails and equipped with a steam locomotive to supplant the mule that before that time had furnished the motive power.
Above the Cascades the Bradfords had built the J. R. Flint, which was the first steamboat on the Middle River. She ran to The Dalles in connection with the Columbia and Belle on the Lower River. After the Flint the Bradfords built the Mary, a double engine steamer. The Wasco was also built prior to '56. These boats, with the Belle and the portage road, constituted a through transporta- tion line from The Dalles to Portland. Humason laid out a portage wagon road around the rapids from The Dalles to Celilo. It followed the old emigrant road up Five Mile creek, and got back to the Columbia above Celilo through a low gap in the range of hills bordering the river, and worked its way down to
the river just below the mouth of the Deschutes. All transportation was done with large freight teams.
It was in 1857 that R. R. Thompson built a saw mill on Upper Fifteen Mile creek, about five miles from the present site of Dufur. Together with O. Huma- son he undertook the construction of a boat seventy feet long, with a capacity of eighty tons. This boat was completed and drawn to the river at Celilo on skids. The first trip, after paying expenses of operating, paid for the cost of building the boat.
In 1860 the different interests were consolidated and organized as the O. S. N. Co. From that time on the river trans- portation was in the hands of a powerful monopoly, who worked the country for all it would stand, until the organiza- tion of the O. R. & N. Co.
The gold excitement in 1855 attracted thousands of prospectors and traders, but few settlers. The Dalles was the chief outfitting point, and, during these years, fairly hummed with industry, while the number of lawless adventurers, drawn by the glamor of the gold excitement, made The Dalles one of the most lawless points in the country.
In 1858, under the direction of Cap- tain Thomas Jordan, the government erecetd the, buildings at the fort. In April, 1859, Captain Jordan commenced the publication of The Dalles Journal, the first newspaper published in the place. In 1860 it was sold to W. H. Newell, who changed its name to The Mountaineer.
The first move toward establishing a city government was made in 1855. A meeting of the residents of the village on September 15th of that year adopted a code of rules for the proper division of property and for the government of the town. A series of resolutions were passed for better government, and a board of trustees elected. They were to hold office and assume the government of the place until April 7. 1856, when a general election shiuld be held. The trus- tees so chosen were W. C. Laughlin, R. D. Forsythe, N. H. LeRoy, J. C. Geere
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THE DALLES, OREGON, 1858.
and O. Humason. On January 26. 1857, a charter bill, incorporating the town, passed the Legislature. The first elec- tion under the charter was on the second Monday in April, 1857. The first re- corder was J. P. Booth, and the first treasurer O. Humason.
The further discoveries of gold in Idaho and Eastern Oregon in 1862 brought The Dalles into considerable prominence as a business center and out- fitting point. Until after the completion of the O. R. & N. railway, in 1881, it was the only outfitting and shipping point into the interior. The Dalles was the center of the trade for the entire country lying east of the Cascade range. The streets were thronged with long lines of freight teams and pack trains coming from, and departing for the mines. At this time the quartz lodes re- ceived but little, if any, attention, and the rich placers of Canyon City, and Sal- mon River, drew thousands, number of whom would return to The Dalles to winter. Coin was scarce, and paper money almost unknown. Gold dust sup- plied the place of currency. This, in abundance, possessed by men who had little idea of economical expenditure, but who spent their dust lavishly on what- ever suited their fancy, made the town very lively. Large fortunes were made by many during this period.
In 1860 the first school house was erected. The old building has been re- modeled and removed several times, but still continues to do service. Before the erection of this building a school was taught in one of the garrison buildings, by one of the soldiers of the fort. Unfor- tunately the name of this first school- master, who, clad in the blue uniform of the United States regular, instructed the youth of the town and martial sur- roundings has not been preserved.
Early courts at The Dalles were crude and simple. At first, and for a considera- ble time, the military authorities at the fort exercised exclusive jurisdiction. In
time, with the organization of town and county governments, they gave way to the civil power. One of the first magis- trates, it is related, had occasion to try an offender, charged with the commis- sion of some minor offense. He was found guilty and fined twenty dollars. Being unable to pay this, and there be- ing no jail in Wasco county, in which to confine him, the officer charged with the execution of the sentence, took the pris- oner to Vancouver for incarceration in the jail at that place. The authorities there refused to honor the commitment. In this dilemma the officer took the note of the prisoner for the amount of the fine and gave him his liberty. The note is yet unpaid.
The county was created in 1854 and from that time the territorial courts took cognizance of matters that pertained to the civil jurisdiction.
In 1876 the population of the city was estimated at 900. Before that time it was largely composed of transcients. The fixed population was small. In the win- ter season it was greatly augmented by miners coming in to pass the stormy months, and for a change from the soli- tude of their lonely placer claims, which were mostly situated in the mountains, where they were deprived of the society of other men.
The census of 1880 gave the number at 2250. It is now estimated to be in ex- cess of 4000.
The foregoing is a brief sketch of the most important events since the first set- tlement of the town. Many of the most interesting occurrences have been lost sight of. In thrilling happenings, The Dalles is unsurpassed by any place in the state. One of the oldest places in the Northwest its inhabitants have contrib- uted much to the history of the state. The key to the whole Columbia basin its possession was eagerly desired. Dr. Mc- Laughlin called it "The Gibralter of Eastern Oregon." It was the seat of op- erations during the early Indian wars.
H. H. RIDDELL.
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A TOUR OF THE WORLD.
JOHN.J. VALENTINE, PRESIDENT OF WELLS-FARGO & CO., WRITES HIS FRIEND, AARON STEIN, OF SAN FRANCISCO, AN ACCOUNT OF HIS TRAVELS.
( Published by Special Permission of Mr. Valentine.)
Viborg, Finland, Nov. 16, 1899. DEAR UNCLE AARON:
We sailed from Stockholm November Ioth, at 10:30 P. M., per steamer "Oihonna," and next morning awoke at 6:00 to find ourselves in a stretch of the finest island scenery that it has ever been my good fortune to behold. From the hour mentioned until noon we kept our way through these "Thousand Isles" un- til we reached Abo, which, up to 1819, was the capital of Finland. Much of our course lay through shallow reaches and narrow windings of navigable water such as can be fancied by anyone who has made the passage of the Wrangle Nar- rows and Limestone Straits of Alaska: though here on the Finnish coast the passages are narrow and more delicately picturesque than those of Alaska. The color of the water in Abo harbor indi- cates slight depth, and the entrance is in some respects not unlike that to Wran- gle Narrows, approached from the north. Abo resembles somewhat the towns of Anacortes and Fairhaven, on Puget Sound, though considerably larger than those two combined; being, in fact, about the size of Tacoma, though more scattering and less substantially built. Its manufacturing interests are all mod- ern, and the only ancient looking object visible is a Russian "schloss" or fortress, built of brick and now used, I believe, as a jail or prison. I was interested to ob- serve on the wharf at this remote north- ern seaport a large pile of Minneapolis flour and Kansas City packed meats.
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We could have traveled by train from Abo to Helsingfors, Viborg and St. Pe- tersburg, but desired to see more of the island navigation off the north shores of
the Gulf of Finland; and we saw more. After discharging cargo at Abo we promptly (at 8:00 P. M.) steamed off again, and then began for me a night of vigils not exceeded in fitful rest since my trip last year through the shallows of Woosung (China) harbor with Captain Harry Smith, of the "Doric;" or one with Captain Carroll, of the "Queen of the Pacinc. into juneau, one dark night some years ago. The night-run from Abo was marked by oft-repeated taps of the bell to "Half speed!" "Slow!" "Go ahead!" "Full speed!" etc.,-these rest- disturbing signals to the engine-room continuing until toward 2 A. M., when, the moon having set, we anchored. I was wakeful enough to partially realize that this was being done, but not sufficiently informed to know why; and until 6:30 A. M. my sleep continued fitful. I was finally put at ease by hearing the anchor weighed, and knowing that the steamer was moving along at regular speed. And now began a piece of navigation as in- teresting as that of the day previous, or even more so, because, until we reached Helsingfors at 2:30 P. M., we meandered through a labyrinth of narrows, straits, and channels winding about among in- numerable islands, the ship's course be- ing indicated-"blazed," as would be said in describing the forest navigation of pioneer days-by all sorts of painted marks on little rocky prominences, sup- plemented by basket-tipped spars or masts set erect in the water; some of the baskets placed top-side up, some invert- ed, and some masts bearing two baskets each. Not a few of the marks on rocks (usually a white spot) bear black num- erals, which serve to guide the pilot on
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his way. Along this devious course we voyaged, as I have said, from 6:30 A. M. until 2:30 P. M., and, half an hour later, we tied up at the Helsingfors wharf. I know of no piece of navigation that is comparable to this in intricacy and the engaging beauty of its surrounding scenery. The larger islands are covered with a growth of pine, fir, and, not un- frequently, birch; the smaller ones are generally rocky, and always picturesque. The "Thousand Islands," at the foot of Lake Ontario, are but a sample or sug- gestion of what is to be found along the north side of the Gulf of Finland from its outlet in the Baltic all the way up to Viborg, and even to Kronstadt; though we left the steamer at Helsingfors and have since journeyed by train.
Helsingsfors stands forth bold and striking on a rocky eminence-a granite bluff. Its principal structures are hand- some, especially three churches, repre- senting as many nationalities. The Swedish Church is first, in impressive- ness; the Russian next in quaintness ; and the German third, in general appear- ance. The first-named, whether seen near at hand or from afar, is an imposing structure, architecturally not dissimilar to
St. Paul's in London. The Russian is a pe- culiar combination of Mosque and Goth- ic style, the German is Gothic. The Swedish church stands on elevated ground, to the west of which are to be found a Greek church, and the Copper Mint of Finland, and to the east, a pub- lic square or plaza. On the south side of this square is the University of Fin- land; on the north is the Senate House of the Finnish Legislature; to the east are the Police Headquarters; and a little to westward stands a striking monument of Alexander II the chief figure on which is an effigy of that Emperor, while on the pedestal below are four striking bronze figures of excellent conception and execution. One of the most im- pressive groups of statuary in the city, apparently in granite, occupies a con- spicuous position on a high rocky point rising abruptly from the water's edge.
It is a family group-father, mother and two children, "Lost at Sea."
The legislature of Finland is composed of four branches, representing the peas- ants, the burghers, the priesthood, and the nobles. The houses of all these several branches are near the public square above mentioned-chiefly on its north and west sides. Looking through the House of Nobles, at the number of es- cutcheons, or coats-of-arms, that fill the innumerable panels of the oak-wainscot- ing which extends to the ceiling, I could but smile at the recollection of an obser- vation made by our Danish guide at Co- penhagen, who, speaking of Sweden, said that "there nobles are numerous enough to be fed to the pigs." While I know nothing of the merits of present political contentions between Russia and Finland, the position of the latter is somewhat anomalous; because she has customs regulations of her own, has fron- tier inspection, mints her own coins and issues her own banknote currency.
While in population (75,000) Helsing- fors ranks below either Copenhagen, Christiania, or Stockholm, its general appearance is similar to them; and in re- spect of attractive buildings, clean streets, and harmonious architecture, etc., is quite as engaging and attractive. In all these cities it is evidently a rule, if not a law, that no building shall be more than five stories high. And right here I may say that, if there are any Ameri- cans who think that the cities of the "effete and worn-out monarchies of Eu- rope" permit the grass to grow in their streets, they are very much mistaken: for the cities of northern Europe are up to date in everything that marks Ameri- can progress.
Helsingfors people compare favorably with those of Copenhagen, Christiania and Stockholm, their westerly brethren, though possibly they are not so polished; but intelligence and thrift are every- where manifest. However the line of demarkation between the well-to-do and the poorer classes is more pronounced in Helsingfors thian in the other cities visited. The "Hucksters" in these cit-
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ies gather in an open plaza early in the morning to dispose of their produce-to do their marketing; and by the way, the varieties of vegetables, game, etc., offer- ed for sale are surprising for these lati- tudes. In regard to the poorer classes, those of Helsingfors bear more signs of life's hardships than do those of Copen- hagen, Christiania and Stockholm. Par- ticularly is this noticeable of the women who in all ordinary branch- es of industry and business seem to take as active part as women do in America. But I repeat these people of Helsingfors show more evidence of the burdens of life. If I may be permitted to paraphrase a line of Whittier -- "privation, care and childbirth pain, have left their traces on heart and brain." The status of womanhood in Scandinavian countries does not differ radically from that of our own boasted land. Education is universal and com- pulsory. All kinds of business positions are open to them-to a greater extent, it seems to me, than in America. Wom- en are employed as clerks and agents in ticket offices, railroad, steamship, etc.,- in postoffices, banks, hotels, stores, etc. And when it comes to the telephone, and you hear a Danish, Swedish or Fin- nish maiden sing out, "Hello, Central!" you realize that "one touch of nature makes the whole world kin."
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