USA > Pennsylvania > Philadelphia County > Philadelphia > Annals of Philadelphia, and Pennsylvania in the olden time; being a collection of the memoirs, anecdotes, and incidents of the earliest settlements of the inland part of Pennsylvania, Vol. II > Part 61
Note: The text from this book was generated using artificial intelligence so there may be some errors. The full pages can be found on Archive.org (link on the Part 1 page).
Part 1 | Part 2 | Part 3 | Part 4 | Part 5 | Part 6 | Part 7 | Part 8 | Part 9 | Part 10 | Part 11 | Part 12 | Part 13 | Part 14 | Part 15 | Part 16 | Part 17 | Part 18 | Part 19 | Part 20 | Part 21 | Part 22 | Part 23 | Part 24 | Part 25 | Part 26 | Part 27 | Part 28 | Part 29 | Part 30 | Part 31 | Part 32 | Part 33 | Part 34 | Part 35 | Part 36 | Part 37 | Part 38 | Part 39 | Part 40 | Part 41 | Part 42 | Part 43 | Part 44 | Part 45 | Part 46 | Part 47 | Part 48 | Part 49 | Part 50 | Part 51 | Part 52 | Part 53 | Part 54 | Part 55 | Part 56 | Part 57 | Part 58 | Part 59 | Part 60 | Part 61 | Part 62 | Part 63 | Part 64 | Part 65 | Part 66 | Part 67 | Part 68 | Part 69 | Part 70 | Part 71 | Part 72
Lively and business like as is the present Pottsville, the man is now living here, John Boyer by name, an old revolutionary soldier, now in his eightieth year, born and reared at the present Schuyl- kill Haven, in which neighbourhood, he had often been engaged in resisting the predatory invasions of the Indians. The country around him was long a wilderness, and was often the scene of bloody massacre, much of which he had seen with his own eyes.
An old Indian war-path, leading from the tribes north of the Sus- quehanna, crossed the mountain at Pottsville, and the few settlers who had braved all danger, and had pitched their cabins in the midst of such perils, were forced to struggle desperately at times, to save the scalps of their families from the knife. Fort Henry once stood at the head of the Swatara, at the foot of Kittaning.
On Thursday, 6th August, early in the morning, I started from Pottsville in a dearborne, having Mr. L. as a companion, to go across to the "Mung Chung" coal mine, said to be twenty miles off by the shortest route, over an unfrequented road, much in primitive wildness. We have no guide, but are told to go between the Sharp and Broad mountain range, till we reach our end. We pass Port Carbon, Middle Port, and Upper Port, on Schuylkill ; towns now on paper, but intended to rival Pottsville, by their coal regions; they have only a house here and there. I am told Maiden creek was " Ontalaunee." This ride was through wild regions, over hills and down into ravines, and here and there a farm, or saw-mill. The last third of our route was rougher and ruder, much woods-cypress swamps, high hills, Tuscarora mountains, Wild-cat mountains, Panther creek-wild names! The road almost obliterated with bushes-had often to get out and walk beside our dearborne. We breakfasted at Middle Port, a half-way house. Along here is form- ing a rail road, down to Pottsville. The Schuylkill here is dammed across for Casner's saw-mill, a good head-Schuylkill has two heads, being springs, each eight miles off. We again passed another branch of the Schuylkill, near another Casner's saw-mill, and there we undressed and bathed in the stream ; after this our progress was very wild. Broad mountains and Sharp mountains 1000 feet high, on either side, and our way along a wilderness suited for deer, and " leather stocking" hunters. It was all a place to interest the feelings of any unaccustomed eye ; yet, in this lonely region, we
45*
534
Appendix.
once in a while broke upon some German cottage. In one of these we made a dinner of bread and milk, and fed our horse. We did not hurry, we rather walked our way ; early in the afternoon we reached the Mung Chung coal mountain. It was on the summit of a flat mountain, 1000 feet high, and nine miles from the village of Mung Chung. Here the mine was all quarried open, forming a great open area of five acres, quite different from those ut Pottsville, which go into the side of the mountain, working the way by a sub- terraneous path, &c. Here the region is denuded of crees. Houses for the miners make a small town. After seeing all che strange ope- rations, and much ingenuity in machinery, &c., we join the cars to make our descent on the rail. We began our descending career in several divisions, fourteen cars to each coal division ; I chose my lot with the mule division-twelve of these were in cars, three mules abreast, munching their hay, while we went off ten miles an hour, and sometimes, for change sake, at twenty miles -- could go at sixty miles, and more. This is a very grateful ride, so rapid, feel so much air, and yet see trees so still-go along the side of a declining mountain, and see down amidst trees far below us; or over to other high mountains beyond us. As we proceeded we saw gathering vapour rolling along the ridge of mountains, and curling and circling to the vale below ; then a general mist succeeded, and quickly rain in pelting patter came over us, wetting us beyond our wishes. On the whole we got on well enough, and descending by the hill from the stopping place, we came to Kimball's capacious and elegant hotel in time to sit down to a welcome supper, with a company of about thirty ladies and gentlemen. The house is three stories-has two ranges of galleries. It is set into the base of an impending mountain 900 feet above it.
On the opposite side of the Lehigh is a mount, 900 feet in height, and the canal along its base ; near the bridge is a dam across the river. Looking up or down the river is very picturesque ; all the scenery is very romantic. A grist-mill of great power is in the town, and two or three saw-mills. The boat-building is a curiosity, Here four men make a coal ark for twenty-five tons of coal, in thirty minutes! They plane the joints of the pine boards, with a plane of nine irons, turned, to give it power, by a crank ; twenty spikes of six inches length are driven home at a stroke, one at a time ; every thing in this region shows invention, so much so, that it looks like enchantment, and Josiah White himself is the great wizard ! At his house, on the side of the hill, he has a deer park. The rush and roar of the water here are sensible to the ear day and night. The river goes up seventeen miles higher to Pine swamps, whence they send down rafts, on which ladies and gentlemen make pleasant parties. Every thing here delights ladies, there is so much adven- ture-looking hazardous, but without harm ; for them to descend on cars-or on rafts over rapids, is very exciting. While I write now under a forest shade, at my hotel, I see up the river, ladies
535
Appendix.
rowed about in a small boat, shouting with joy as they go. We have trout at table caught up the river.
Friday, 7th August, I prepare at midday to make a start for Easton, at the mouth of the Lehigh, and to ride in the stage along the romantic banks of the river, in sight of the excellent canal. There we see many miles, as we ride amidst towering trees, running up the rocky mountains high above our road. Often we see the Lehigh dammed across, and the schutes, as they were formerly made by the inventive Josiah White, for the deepening and use of the river. Came to Lehighton, where we took a dinner-snack-a small place-saw there the place of Fort Allen, now having only its well remaining there. At that fort, in 1758, C. F. Port, the interpreter, records his stopping with his Indians. It seems not long ago, and yet now all has been civilized and settled. At Lehighton we went over a bridge, close by the former fort, to the northern side of the river. There we ride close alongside of the canal. These canals so closely adhering to the sites of the streams which they rob of water and bear off their fame, strikes me as something parasitical.
We finally leave the canal as we come through the lofty water gaps. There is there a great reservoir of water retained by a dam. We now proceed through the country farms leading towards Easton; the country looks but tame, hills diminish, finally we reach Easton by moonlight. This day we have a passenger who carried with us a rattle snake in a box, with a glass plate; it took the jolts and company very quietly, but rarely shaking his rattles, or seeming to care for us !
Former state of Beasts of Prey, Deer, g.c.
Our inland country was originally well stocked with bear, wolves, deer and turkeys. The flesh of the two last was not only a luxury, but a necessary article of food. Deer skin breeches, and deer skin facings to woollen pantaloons, (after one season's service,) were the height of country fashion. The wolf made great havoc with the few sheep introduced ; committing depredations at the same time upon the wild deer. He has been known to attack cows. The bear confined himself to hogs; and many instances are given of his boldness in capturing and carrying away provisions of this kind. He springs suddenly upon his victim, grasps him in his arms or fore legs with a force which is irresistible, erects himself upon his hind legs like a man, and makes off in an instant with his load. The piercing squeal of the hog is the first warning of his presence, to the owner. A large bear, which meets with no obstruction, will make his way through a thick wood in this manner, with a hog of good size, faster than a man on foot can follow. The groans and strug- gles of the animal in his embrace become weaker and weaker, and soon cease entirely. One of these creatures took a shoat from a drove belonging to J. H. in his presence. He followed him closely
636
Appendix.
but the bear evidently gained in the race till he came to a brush fence, and not being able to climb it with sufficient expedition, drop- ped the dying pig in order to secure himself. Mr. E. S. was chop ping on his land, when one of his hogs was taken near by. After a severe contest with clubs, Mr. S. recovered the body of his hog, and, using it as a bait, afterwards caught the offender in a trap. An- other seized a full grown hog belonging to A. W near by, and not- withstanding men were near and made close pursuit, he carried it off without difficulty.
When Mr. E. C. lived in his log house, his hogs were fed across the road at a trough in the field. One morning, as he returned from feeding them, a large bear fell upon the hogs before he had reached the house. By the time he had seized his rifle and re- crossed the road, the bear had secured one, and as he rose, prepara- tory to a retreat, received a bullet in the chest. He then let the hog fall and made fiercely at Mr. C .; but, in making an effort to scale the bars, fell backward and died.
Mr. J. C. and his dogs fell in with one of a moderate size, while traversing the woods in search of horses, An engagement followed in which the bear had apparently the advantage. To an early settler, the loss of a dog, his companion and faithful sentinel, was a misfortune that affected, not only his interest, but the best feelings of his heart. Mr. C. had nothing in hand but a bridle, and could therefore bring no weapons to the assistance of his friends but such dry clubs as lay about him. The animal paid very little attention to these, but at length finding a young sapling, he broke it into a good stick, and managed to give several hard knocks repeatedly on the same spot, just behind the ear. By this means he was killed, and the dog released.
By the assistance of a large and valuable wolf dog, Mr. D. P. and Mr. D. F. killed one with clubs and stones.
If the body of a hog was recovered partly eaten, the same bear could generally be taken in a trap within the next twenty-four hours. He invariably returned for the remainder, and showed little or no sagacity in avoiding his fate. For this purpose a heavy steel trap was used, with smooth jaws, and a long drag chain, with iron claws at the extremity. It was not fastened to the spot, because the great strength of the animal would enable him to free himself, but as he san, after being snared, the claws would catch upon the brush, re- tarding his flight, and leaving a distinct trail. He was generally overtaken within two miles, exhausted of strength. Here the dogs were first allowed an opportunity to exhibit their courage and na- tural animosity, before the rifle put an end to his degradation and suf- ferings. In these conflicts, if the shackles were upon his hind legs, leaving the fore paws free, there were but few dogs desirous of a close combat the second time.
In the winter, the inhabitants of this and the adjoining townships determined to make an effort to clear the country of the bear and
53.
Appendix.
1
of the wolf at the same time. There were four drives, or large hunts, organized during the winter. They were frequently got up in the new country by those who were not professed hunters, for the purpose of taking a few deer and turkeys, then so common. A large tract of wild land, the half or fourth of a township, was surrounded by lines of men, with such intervals that each person could see or hear those next him, right and left. The whole acted under the command of a captain, and at least four subordinates, who were generally mounted. At a signal of tin horns, or trumpets, every man advanced in line towards the centre, preserving an equal dis- tance from those on either hand, and making as much noise as prac- ticable. From the middle of each side of the exterior line, a blazed line of trees was previously marked to the centre as a guide, and one of the subofficers proceeded along each as the march progressed. About a half or three-fourths of a mile from the central point, a ring of blazed trees was made, and a similar one at the ground of meeting, with a diameter at least equal to the greatest rifle range. On arriving at the first ring, the advancing lines halted till the com- inandant made a circuit and saw the men equally distributed and all the gaps closed. By this time a herd of deer might be occasionally seen driving in affright from one line to another. At the signal, the ranks move forward to the second ring, which is drawn around the foot of an eminence, or the margin of an open swamp or lake. Here, if the drive has been a successful one, great numbers of tur- keys may be seen flying among the trees away from the spot. Deer, in flocks, sweeping around the ring, under an incessant fire, panting and exhausted. When thus pressed, it is difficult to detain them long within the ring. They become desperate, and make for the line at full speed. If the men are too numerous and resolute to give way, they leap over their heads, and all the sticks, pitchforks and guns raised to oppose them. By a concert of the regular hunt- ers, gaps are sometimes made to allow them to escape. The wolf is now seen skulking through the bushes, hoping to escape observa- tion by concealment. If bears are driven in, they dash through the brush in a rage from one part of the field to another, regardless of the shower of bullets playing upon them. After the game appears to be mostly killed, a few good marksmen and dogs scour the ground within the circle to stir up what may be concealed or wounded. This over, they advance again to the centre with a shout, dragging along the carcasses which have fallen, for the purpose of making a count. [The foregoing facts were communicated by a friend.]
Wolves were taken with difficulty in steel traps, but more readily in log pens, prepared like the roof of a house, shelving inwards on all sides, and containing the half devoured carcass of a sheep, upon which they had made a previous meal. The wolf easily clambered up the exterior side of the cabin, and entered at the top, which was left open ; but once fairly within it, he could neither escape or throw it down.
VOL. II .- 3 S
538
Appendix.
Turkeys were taken in square pens, made of lighter timber, and covered at the top. They entered at an open door in the inside, which was suspended by a string that led to a catch within. This string and catch were covered with chaff, which induced them to en- ter, and while engaged in scratching about the chaff to get at the grain mingled with it, some unlucky companion would strike the catch and let the door down behind them all.
Sea-shore watering places-Cape May-Long Beach, &c., 1822-3
We are enabled by access to some MS. journals, to portray in some degree, a former state of the sea-shore watering places, which may serve to mark things as they were, to those who shall come after us, and may behold things in another aspect of improvement and luxury, to wit :
These pages shall be appropriated to catch some of the fleeting images and things, which may flit across the mind or press upon the sight, in an intended excursion to the sea-shore, at Cape Island.
Behold us safely pushed off from the wharf, and going at a rate of ten miles an hour! What variety of images crowd upon the mind! We turn to friends at home, and instinctively sigh farewell -we think how far we shall be off at the close of the day, and the new society we must encounter. We look among the numerous passengers, (forty of different sexes,) and feel that we form opinions of our companions from our transient glances at their exterior. Some we recognize as plain sober persons; others, as young and sprightly dashers-all anticipating the fulfilment of their several hopes. Here and there a pale languid frame indicates its forlorn hope from a sea bath-doing what they can to arrest the tide of their ebbing life ; others, all nerve and sinew, seem going to make life more sportful. What sights of ships, boats, and busy life upon the waters! How independent we feel whilst thus conscious that the mighty frame of such a ponderous vessel is set in motion, with all the men thereunto connected, to minister to our pleasures and to our comforts. What elegance in such a vessel of accommodation and comforts! How rapidly the passed objects fade from the view-and with what in- terest we look ahead to discern the new things breaking upon our vision ! With what remarkable ease and quiet, the captain gives and executes his orders and purposes. A ship of equal magnitude could only be urged on with a load of curses. No swearing in this vessel ! There is something sublime in contemplating this wonder of the genius of Fitch and Fulton, making such a mighty fabric fly like a dart through the pressing waves. Man " shall have dominion" over all the things which God has made. How destructive an element is fire, and yet to what purposes of steam, of health, warmth and comfort, does it not minister !
As we pass in rapid succession the fleeting objects, I remember my impressions, respecting the same things, when a lad; I per- reive that all the places on the Delaware then appeared of more
539
Appendix.
importance than they do now-and even greater-hills looked bigger then.
We come off the high lands of Christiana, seen at a long dis- tance-its extreme verdure and proper mixture of woods and fields is very beautiful to the eye. Its gradual elevation from the river pre- sents a very interesting scene, and makes us surprised that in such beautiful scenery, there should be no appearance of elegance, as of country seats, in the mansions, &c.
Come to at New Castle-a number of sea vessels at anchor here. The spire to one of the churches, although plain, is very conspicuous at a great distance on the water. Went ashore, into the main front street, to see the house built in 1687, after the manner of the houses in Holland, of brick said to have been then imported from thence. The bricks are very small, yellowish, and now rough-cast with plaster. It presents its gable-end to the front street-the roof is remarkably steep, making two stories in itself. The end walls are higher than the roof, and have regular steps on their upper surface above the roof. The year, 1687, is in iron letters, as clamps, on the front wall. One feels a sentiment of veneration at seeing such a vestige of antiquity. The generation to which it belonged, and those who successively inhabited it, have all gone to join " the nations beyond the flood."
After this place, till we reach the cape at six o'clock, the same evening, the river or bay becomes wider and wider, till it at length forms " the bay," and sometimes leaves us out of sight of land on one side or other, alternately. We pass many ships anu brigs to and fro. Some after long voyages, earnestly anticipating the plea- sures of an arrival to greet long absent friends ; and others bound abroad to distant climes, filled with hopes and fears for their eventual success therein.
As we near the beach, we see many carriages in waiting to bear us to the boarding houses, three miles off, on the opposite sea beach. Before sundown, we arrive at our boarding house, (Aaron Bennett's,) at Cape Island. We take the house nearest to the surf, because we wish, while we stay, to be salted and pickled with sea air. We find the three houses very full of guests, containing together perhaps near two hundred persons. ยท The time will come when, from the na- tural advantages of this place, there will be much more resort here, and much improvement in the accommodations and entertainments.
Our first night we were crowded, so that I had to take up my rest on a pallet of wood ; an old settee and a pillow, made me to rest my- self in very sound sleep through the night. The last comers had to accept the roughest fare. I have a heart for these things; and when the mind is in favour of conforming ourselves to our condition, we readily make rough things smooth. I intend to be pleased with all I cannot mend ; and I have no doubt I shall much increase my comforts thereby.
'The sea here often encroaches on the houses-several acres of the lawn in front of the house (Bennett's) have been gradually, o1
540
Appendix.
by storms, washed off into the sea. The distance now from the house is one hundred and sixty-five feet. In 1804, as then measured by Captain Decatur, it was three hundred and thirty-four feet off It was formerly three hundred feet still further off-say sixty or seventy years ago-[so old men, present, told me.]
The ladies, at appointed hours in the forenoon and afternoon, go into the surf, at which time gentlemen do not walk on the banks. The ladies wear flannel and other woollen dresses-none go out above half their depth.
The sea diet is not so good as we expected-the variety of fish is not great nor frequent. We ask often for crabs-and the oysters are small.
It is sometimes curious to observe the variety of men and manners, and the very different interest we feel in faces and persons. Some possess that frank and open unreserve that seems to invite and ensure sociability ; whilst others seem to forbid such freedom of ap- proach-therefore, with some we seem at home and free; whilst others we seem to be likely to know no better after seeing them here, than if we had never broken bread in their society.
Some parties have been made up to go off Indian river, fifty miles off, to fish. Sometimes they catch several hundred fish-at other times ladies and all go to the shore and see the fishing with a seine.
Cape Island is a village of about twenty houses, and the streets are very clean and grassy ; but our walks are generally up and down the beach. I generally walk a mile at a time, and several times in a day.
What a sublime and awful contemplation is the great deep! How wonderful the power of Him who made it such. What vast and unexplored treasures lie concealed beneath its ample bosom! How it teems with animal life-and withal how useful to man ! To see the constant succession of outward and inward bound vessels, is very interesting. What various thoughts and enterprises must engage the numerous breasts, which compose the inmates of those floating habitations! Some feel buoyant with the hopes of seeing wives, sisters, husbands, or brothers, they may never see. Some are emi- grants, forsaking all their former connexions, coming to new lands to seek happiness and wealth, and perchance to die. Some, having amassed fortunes abroad, are returning to spend the fruits of their foreign enterprise otium cum dignitate among their friends-and perchance some of ruined reputation and-ill gained riches are coming to seek a quiet and a refuge denied to them where known. How easy to extend the thoughts of all those who are thus busily thinking for themselves! How astonished and confounded we should all gaze upon one another, if all our thoughts were necessarily as open and unconcealed as our visages; or our hearts were as exposed to each other as before God.
Thursday, the 8th August .- Have now been here since Monday night-it really seems long, although there is no disrelish to any
541
Appendix
thing here ; but time seems long when one is broken off from their usual habits. Last night one of the gentlemen played dancing tunes on his flute, and several made themselves merry with dancing in the dining hall. They were so well pleased, that to-night a more regular ball is to be given, and the ladies and gentlemen from the other boarding houses (McKinsey's and Hughes',) are invited. Seve- ral riding parties go off to day along the beach and other places. I can perceive that even pleasure sates : for several that have now stayed out their time, express much desire to see the steamboat again to take them home. The arrival of new company, and the departure of some of the old, twice a week, produces a wonderful bustle for the first night, while both parties remain in the house, and leave several of the gentlemen to take their rest on tables, chairs and settees.
Several of us have a desire to engage a pilot boat to take us on to Tuckerton beach-we expect in such a trip of sixty miles a more direct experience of the sea and the tossing waves. Several may get sick, and if the wind is fair, we shall be transported to an entire new company in six or seven hours.
Among our few amusements-we swing-gather curious shells and pebbles upon the strand-walk the piazza, and converse. A curious and laughable exercise is to try to walk blindfolded to any given object in a direct line. It is impossible to conceive how very much we are prone to deviate to the right or left. Some would almost describe a semicircle, whilst they thought they were walking straight to the mark. Ladies and gentlemen exercise at this. Some pitch quoits-some play domino.
Need help finding more records? Try our genealogical records directory which has more than 1 million sources to help you more easily locate the available records.