History of Lycoming County, Pennsylvania, Part 3

Author: edited by John F. Meginness
Publication date: 1892
Publisher: Chicago, Ill. : Brown, Runk
Number of Pages: 1650

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As adventurers the French were bold, daring, and hardy. No dangers deterred them from penetrating the wilderness at that day in their efforts to secure territory for New France, and they met the natives in many instances and ingratiated them- selves into their favor, when other Europeans would have shrunk from the task. Brulé, however, had a hard time. He was taken prisoner by the Iroquois and suffered terribly from bad treatment before he escaped. He was absent three years before Champlain saw him again. On his return he described the country and the people he had met. He speaks of a palisaded town of the Andastes on the upper waters of the Susquehanna which contained a population of 800 warriors, or about 4,000 souls. He might have been mistaken in his estimate, as this would have been a very large population for an Indian town. If it was situated in what is now known as Muncy valley, it shows that the country at that time was as attractive to the Indians as it is to the whites of to-day. Such being the case, it is reasonable to suppose that the Andastes chose the valley as an inviting place to found one of their largest towns.

Whether Brulé passed down the North or West Branch to the main river, it is undenied that he was the first white man known to descend the river, and carry tidings of the appearance of the country and the people back to the French com- mander in Canada, over 270 years ago !

The next white man to pass through the valley was Conrad Weiser, when he made his journey to Onondaga in 1737, nearly 120 years after Etienne Brulé. There is no doubt about Weiser's visit, for he left a written record of his journey, and spoke of visiting the ruined fortification on Wolf run. This was on the 20th of March. On this perilous journey he was accompanied by the famous Indian chief, Shikellimy, afterwards vice-king of the Six Nations at Shamokin, two other Indians, and a German.

In the forenoon of the 21st they reached Muncy creek. It was very high and they were taken over in a canoe, not without great danger. The next day, he says, two English traders attempted to cross, but their canoe was over- turned by the force of the current and one of them drowned, and the other only escaped by swimming. He does not state which way they were traveling, but it is likely they were on their way up the river to the Indian town on the Loyalsock, or the Great Island. This is the first mention we have of white traders ascending the river this far, but it is not likely that they were the first, as we hear of them being at Shamokin as early as 1728. The Indian trader was an adventuresome indi- vidual, and he did not hesitate to brave the dangers of flood and field to meet the Indians to dispose of his wares.

On the 22d they reached the Indian village of Otstuagy, situated near the site of Montoursville, and so named from a rock on the opposite side of the river. This rock, which was a conspicuous landmark for many years, was destroyed by the con- struction of the Philadelphia and Erie railroad.

HISTORY OF LYCOMING COUNTY.

Weiser notes in his journal: " Before we came in sight of the village we reached the large creek [Loyalsock] which looked more dreadful than the one yesterday." An ice flood was very likely prevailing at that time. And from his remarks regard- ing their approach to the village, we infer that it was situated on the west side of the creek.

It is probable that they tarried a day or two at the Indian town for rest after getting over the Loyalsock. It would be interesting to know how the crossing of this turbulent stream was effected, after their rough experience at Muncy creek, but he failed to note anything about it in his journal.

After leaving Otstuagy Weiser and party struck the Sheshequin path, which intersected the trail they were following a short distance west of the village, and crossed the hills to the north of the present city of Williamsport to Lycoming creek. The horrors of their journey up this stream are vividly depicted in his journal, and show what a dense and almost impenetrable wilderness existed in the gorges of Lycoming creek at that day. On reaching it he says:

We came to a narrow valley about half a mile broad and thirty long, both sides of which were encompassed with high mountains, on which the snow lay about three feet deep. In it ran a stream of water, also about three feet deep, which was so crooked that it kept a continued winding from one side of the valley to the other. In order to avoid wading so often through the water, we endeavored to pass along the slope of the mountain-the snow being three feet deep and so hard frozen on the top that we walked upon it-but we were obliged to make holes in the snow with our hatchets, that our feet might not slip down the mountain, and thus we crept on. It happened that the old Indian's foot slipped, and the root of a tree by which he held breaking, he slid down the mountain as from the roof of a house, but happily he was stopped in his fall by the string which fastened his pack hitching on the stump of a small tree. The two Indians could not go to his aid, but our Dutch fellow-traveler did; yet not without visible danger of his own life. I also could not put a foot forward until I was helped. After this we took the first opportunity to descend into the valley, which was not uutil after we had labored hard for half an hour with hands and feet. Having observed a tree lying directly off from where the Indian fell, when we got into the valley again, we went back about one hundred paces, where we saw that if the Indian had slipped four or five paces further he would have fallen over a rock one hundred feet perpendicular upon craggy pieces of rocks below. The Indian was astonished and turned quite pale; theu, with outstretched arms and great earnestness, he spoke these words: "I thank the great Lord and Governor of this world, in that he has had mercy upon me and has been willing that I should live longer." Which words I, at that time, put down in my journal. This happened on the 25th of March, 1737.

These touching words were uttered by Shikellimy, who has been often styled the "great and good Indian." He was the father of Logan, the noted chief who made the eloquent speech relating to the white race which will live as long as history exists.

The rocks over which Shikellimy came so near being precipitated formed the cliffs near the present village of Ralston. The traveler informs us that they con- tinued their journey through the gloomy wilderness, although at great peril. At one time Weiser was so overcome by exhaustion and hunger that he seated himself by the roots of a tree, expecting to die. Shikellimy, who was in advance, came back in search of him. Finding him as described, he stood silently for a moment aud then said: "My dear companion, thou hast hitherto encouraged us; wilt thou now quite give up? Remember that evil days are better than good days. For when we suffer much we do not sin. Sin will be driven out of us by suffering, and God can

A. Royale

ABORIGINAL OCCUPATION.

not extend his mercy to them; but contrarywise, when it goeth evil with us, God hath compassion on us." These sublime words coming from the lips of the old Indian, had the desired effect. Weiser says they made him " ashamed," and he rose up and traveled on as best he could until the journey was finished.

Five years later came Count Zinzendorf, the Moravian missionary, who traveled through what is now Lycoming county. He was accompanied by his daughter Benigna, Anna Nitchsman, J. Martin Mack, and two friendly Indians. Zinzendorf was a very pious and devout man, and labored zealously for the conversion of the Indians to the Moravian faith. During his mission he made a marked impression among the Indians, and the influence of his good work was long felt. Shikellimy became a convert to the Moravian faith, and as he was the chief ruler over all the tribes dwelling on the Susquehanna, it can readily be seen what a good effect must have resulted from his conversion. He adhered to the Moravian faith to the close of his life, and was buried by the rites of that church at Shamokin, December 17, 1748.

Zinzendorf and his party left Shamokin on the 30th of September, 1742, and traveled up the West Branch. During the second night they encamped near Muncy creek. The Count spoke enthusiastically of the beauty of the scenery and the richness of the foliage. He expressed some surprise at not seeing any snakes, which he had been informed were very numerous; and there was a species which lay on the tops of the low bushes ready to spring on passing travelers. None of these were seen. The country, however, abounded in reptiles, bears, and other wild animals. Conrad Weiser, according to the journal of the Count, accompanied them. When they approached Otstuagy-sometimes called Otstonwakin-Weiser rode ahead to the village to notify the inhabitants of the approach of the party. It was then the residence of the celebrated Madame Montour, a French half-breed, who located there as early as 1727. In a short time he returned, accompanied by Andrew, the eldest son of Madame. The following extract from the journal of Zinzendorf gives a description of the appearance of Montour, and the meeting with his mother:

Andrew's cast of conntenance is decidedly European, and had his face not been encircled with a broad band of paint, applied with bear's fat, I would certainly have taken him for one. He wore a brown broadcloth coat, a scarlet damasken lapel waistcoat, breeches, over which his shirt hung, a black Cordovan neckerchief, decked with silver bangles, shoes and stockings, and a hat. His ears were hung with pendants of brass and other wires plaited together like the handle of a basket. He was very cordial, but on addressing him in French he, to my surprise, replied in English.

When a short distance from the village, Andrew left us and rode ahead to notify the inhabit- ants of our approach. As soon as they saw us they discharged their fire-arms, by way of salute, and repeated this mode of welcome on our arrival at the huts. Here we dismounted and repaired to Madame Montour's quarters. Her husband, who had been a chief, had been killed in battle with the Catawbas. When the old woman saw ns she wept. In conrse of conversation, while giving her a general account of the Brethren and their circumstances, I told her that one of our towns was named Bethlehem.

The Indians erect either a stone or a mound in honor of their deceased heroes. This custom is decidedly Israelitish. Early in the morning of the 3d of October we heard a woman wailing at the grave of her husband .. ... There is a promiscuous Indian population in this village. Madame Montour brought two children to me and asked me to baptize them, alleging the custom of the Canadian Fathers as an excuse for her request. I refused, telling her that when-

HISTORY OF LYCOMING COUNTY.

ever a Brother settled here we would take the matter into consideration, as we were in the habit of baptizing only such persons as we thought we would have frequent opportunity of remind- ing of the significance of the rite.

About the 9th or 10th Count Zinzendorf turned around and crossed the mountains to Wyoming valley, where he had a very interesting visit with the Indians of that place. Andrew Montour, who was proficient in several tribal languages, accom- panied him as guide and interpreter.

This visit of the distinguished Moravian missionary to what is now the central part of Lycoming county 150 years ago marked the beginning of a new era in Indian affairs.

The next Moravian visitation was in June, 1745, when Bishop Spangenberg, accompanied by Conrad Weiser, David Zeisberger, and several converted Indians, passed through the valley on their way to Onondaga. On the 8th of June they crossed Muncy creek aud followed the path to Otstonwakin, which they reached at noon. After crossing Muncy creek the Bishop records in his journal that they "found half a deer, which an Indian from Otstonwakin had shot, and being unable to carry all of it home, he had hung the rest of it up in a tree, so that whoever needed it might take it-which we did."

The Indians at Otstonwakin received them kindly and treated them to boiled meat, which they placed before them in a large kettle. No reference is made to Madame Montour. Probably she was absent, as she was in the habit of moving about a great deal. After refreshing themselves they proceeded in the afternoon on their journey, and at dusk came to Lycoming creek, which they called the "Limp- ing Messenger," and encamped for the night. This name is not inappropriate, when we consider the tortuous windings of the stream and the many ripples it con- tains. To reach it they probably took the Sheshequin path, as a "cut off," which ran through what we now call Blooming Grove. Portions of this Indian highway are still visible in a forest north of Williamsport.

While encamped on the "Limping Messenger" their horses, which had been turned out to graze, strayed back to Otstonwakin some time during the night, and some of the party had to be sent in search of them. This delayed their movements until noon. It would be interesting to know just where Spangenberg aud his party encamped. It is likely that it was near where the path debouched from the hills, in a ravine, a short distance below what is now Hepburnville.

Haviug recovered their horses Spangenberg and his party resumed their journey up Lycoming creek in the afternoon of June 9th. He speaks of entering the " wilderness," and says that their path through the valley lay between the "Ant Hills, one hill resembling another, side by side, and so high that we [they] could scarcely see to the summit. They are all peaked and resemble ant hills." His comparison was a good one, for those who will take the trouble to observe them carefully will be struck with their striking resemblance to immense ant hills. According to Lewis Evans's map of 1749, they were called Burnett's Hills by the Indians, and the path was marked as running through the "Dismal Vale !" When one studies the face of the narrow valley to-day and notes the hills on either side, it requires no effort of the mind to imagine what it must have been in its primitive condition. And yet the changes wrought by improvement have made the narrow

ABORIGINAL OCCUPATION.

valley one of the most attractive places in the county. There are several little villages, busy manufactories, and handsome cottages with lovely surroundings. A railroad runs through it, and before it passes over the northern boundary of the county it has crossed the "Limping Messenger " on iron and wooden bridges more than twenty times.

In the evening of that day the good Moravian informs us that they went into camp for the night at the "Coffee House." This was probably a hut or camp on the ground now occupied by the village of Trout Run, as that would be about the distance they would travel during the afternoon. It could not have been more than a stopping place, for no white man had yet erected a cabin in that dismal solitude. The hemlock and pine grew so thick that their evergreen foliage so completely shut out the light of day that the travelers could scarcely see the sun shine.

On the 10th they continued their journey. The Bishop says:

It rained hard all day. Our course was north for ten miles, then we turned northeast. We are still between the Ant Hills, and follow the Diadachton. The forest is so dense that for a day the sun could not be seen, and so thick that yon could not see twenty feet before. The path, too, is so bad that the horses often were stuck, and bad to be extricated from the bogs; and, at other points, it lay full of trees that had been hlown down by the wind and heaped so high that we were at a loss whether to turn to the right or to the left. In the evening we came to a salt lick, where elks frequent, and camped for the night.

"The Diadachton" referred to is what was supposed to be Lycoming creek. Its history will be given at the proper place. The salt lick was either at the mouth of Red run or near the village of Roaring Branch. Salt was afterwards sought on the former stream, and in a land sale a salt reservation was once made in what would now be in the eastern part of Jackson township.

The following entry in his journal shows how they finally emerged from the wil- derness of Lycoming creek:

JUNE 11 .- Set off from the salt lick* and traveled northeast; reached the end of the Diadachton and left the Ant Hills behind us. The path was very bad, so that one of our horses almost broke his leg, by getting into a hole between the roots of a tree. In the afternoon we found a cold roast of bear, which Indians had left on the hunt. As the meat was good we pre- pared it for dinner. In the evening we came to the Bear's Claws and camped. The Indians took the claws from the bear and nailed them to a tree, hence the name. Here an Indian from Tioga lodged with us. From him we learned that our messenger was already one day's jour- ney ahead of us.

The end of what he terms the "Diadachton" was the source of Lycoming creek at the Beaver Dams in Bradford county.

After completing their journey to Onondaga Spangenberg and party returned by the same route. Their experiences were even more trying than on the outward journey. Not only had they to contend with the same horrors of the swamps in the vicinity of the present villages of Ralston, Bodines, and Trout Run, but a succes- sion of severe rain storms made traveling almost unendurable. The heat was very great, and the ground had become so saturated with water that the greatest care was required to guard against falling into quagmires. The unforeseen delays caused by

*The "salt lick " was located on what is now known as Salt Spring run, a tributary of Roaring Branch creek, which falls into the latter about one and a half miles from the present town of Roaring Branch. Experi- ments were made there by the early settlers for salt, and as late as 1865 a well was drilled to a depth of nearly 600 feet near an old well, when salt water and gas were developed.

HISTORY OF LYCOMING COUNTY.

the storms exhausted their slender supply of provisions, and the outlook was exceed- ingly gloomy and discouraging. They had struggled in the thickets of the wilder- ness for eight days, and when they reached Otstonwakin, on the Loyalsock. they were almost exhausted. Here they met with a bitter disappointment. The Indian village was deserted, not a fire burned in a single lodge, and not a morsel of food was to be obtained. Riding on, in garments wringing wet, and barely alleviating the worst pangs of hunger with a few fishes which they had caught in the Susquehanna, they laid down on the bank of the river at noon of the 7th of July, 1745, utterly over- come and prepared to die. They could go no further. It was an hour to try their souls. A handful of rice constituted the remnant of their provisions. The records inform us that the Bishop and his young companions, faint and silent, waited to see what God would do for them, while Shikellimy and his son, with the stoicism of their race, resigned themselves to their fate without a murmur. While thus sitting in this disconsolate condition, offering silent prayers for their deliverance, an aged Indian emerged from the forest, sat down among them, opened his pouch, and gave them a smoked turkey!

After having refreshed themselves and rested, they resumed their journey and passed on down through Muncy valley. Their Indian rescuer accompanied them and encamped with them at night, when he produced several pieces of dried venison which they greatly relished. The next day they reached Shamokin, where a trader supplied them with fresh provisions and starvation no longer stared them in the face.

Count Zinzendorf, it will be remembered, expressed some surprise at not seeing any snakes on his journey up the valley in 1742. If he was disappointed in this respect, Spangenberg and his party were not. The latter records in his journal that they came upon a rattlesnake nest in the Mnncy Hills near the river. At first a few of the reptiles were discovered basking in the sun. No sooner, however, did they kill these than the whole neighborhood seemed to be alive. and a rattling began which was frightful. Snakes crawled out of holes in the rocks and from between loose stones, or darted from thickets and lifting their heads above patches of fern, soon showed themselves in such numbers that the travelers were almost surrounded and were glad to beat a hasty retreat.

Rev. David Brainerd was the next evangelist to visit this valley on a mission of peace to the Indians. He came in August, 1746, about a year after Bishop Spang- enberg. At the intersection of the Shesheqnin and Susquehanna paths, a short dis- tance west of Montoursville, he met and preached to a large body of Indians. Mr. Brainerd was suffering from consumption when he made his memorable visit and had a hard time. He extended his journey to a town near the present site of Lin- den and conversed with the natives. His visit was a short one, as he found himself unable to endure the hardship of sleeping on a bed made of the boughs of bushes, with no covering but the canopy of heaven, and he hastened to return. His experi- ences among the Indians of the West Branch and at Duncan's island, on the main river, were very interesting.

FAMINE AND SMALL POX.

In the summer of 1748 David Zeisberger and John Martin Mack made a jour-

ABORIGINAL OCCUPATION.

ney up the West Branch from Shamokin, for the purpose of visiting the Indians and ascertaining the extent of the famine which was reported to be prevailing among them. He records that they reached Otstonwakin on the 10th of July and found it entirely deserted. They made no stop, but continued on. At night they were greatly tormented "by punks and mosquitos, despite the five fires between which we [they] lay down to sleep."

They resumed their journey on the 11th and passed many empty Indian huts. In the afternoon they reached Long Island (opposite Jersey Shore), and crossed over to it. A few deserted huts were found. Here Martin Mack climbed a tree to look out for some human being, for the grass and weeds were so high that they could see no distance. From the tree he saw an Indian on another part of the island. He descended and made for the point, where he found a hut in which an old woman and several others were down with the small pox. On asking where the Indians of this region were, he was informed that many had died of small pox, and others had been driven by famine to the white settlements. Nearly all the Indians who dwelt on the island were Delawares, and the number was not small.

The missionaries continued their journey that afternoon to the Great Island, which they reached in the evening. They found a few Indians, principally women, in a starving condition. The men had nearly all been driven away by the famine. When informed that their visitors were not traders, the Indians were greatly sur- prised and could not understand the object of their visit. On asking an Indian if they could lodge in his hut he took them in cordially and spread a bear skin for them to sleep on, but he had nothing for them to eat. The father of this man, about seventy years of age, was dying of the small pox and was a most pitiable object. In nearly every hut they found a case of small pox. In one hut hung a kettle in which grass was stewing, which they ate with avidity. Their condition was deplorable and the visitors were greatly affected. Green, hard grapes, which a party brought in, were quickly seized and voraciously devoured.

After tarrying a few days among these starving people, Zeisberger and his com- panion started on the return trip in the afternoon of the 13th. They camped that night "on a large flat rock by a creek," where they ate some moldy bread, the last of their stock, "and built four fires to keep off the vermin." From his brief description it is hard to locate the place where they camped, but it was probably on Pine or Larry's creek, as they reached Otstonwakin at noon of the 14th. They arose early from their rocky bed and Zeisberger caught a few fish which served them for breakfast. When they reached Otstonwakin they succeeded in spearing a "large fish with a pointed stick," which they took to their camp "on a high bank of the Susquehanna, where Bishop Spangenberg and company had dined on the way to Onondaga in 1745, and ate the fish for supper."

It would be interesting to be able to locate the exact spot where they camped. From the nature of the ground there is no "high bank" on the river at this point, which leaves us to infer that the camp must have been on the high ground on the west side of Loyalsock, some distance north of where it falls into the river. The underbrush and timber on the flats on the east side must have been very dense at that time, and there was, no doubt, heavy timber on the high ground on the west side, which completely shut out all view of the river, and the evangelists supposed

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History of Lycoming County, Pennsylvania, Part 3

Author: edited by John F. Meginness Publication date: 1892 Publisher: Chicago, Ill. : Brown, Runk Number of Pages: 1650

Author: edited by John F. Meginness
Publication date: 1892
Publisher: Chicago, Ill. : Brown, Runk
Number of Pages: 1650