USA > Pennsylvania > Erie County > The history of Erie County, Pennsylvania, from its first settlement > Part 24
Note: The text from this book was generated using artificial intelligence so there may be some errors. The full pages can be found on Archive.org (link on the Part 1 page).
Part 1 | Part 2 | Part 3 | Part 4 | Part 5 | Part 6 | Part 7 | Part 8 | Part 9 | Part 10 | Part 11 | Part 12 | Part 13 | Part 14 | Part 15 | Part 16 | Part 17 | Part 18 | Part 19 | Part 20 | Part 21 | Part 22 | Part 23 | Part 24 | Part 25 | Part 26 | Part 27 | Part 28 | Part 29 | Part 30 | Part 31 | Part 32 | Part 33 | Part 34 | Part 35 | Part 36 | Part 37 | Part 38 | Part 39 | Part 40
There is every indication that at one time this was a large lake, and that it has become filled up by drift, logs, etc., which, by decay and vegetable matter decomposing, has formed the " crust" alluded to. For some time the two sides settled very materially, but particularly the one on the south, consuming an immense quantity of earth.
The height of the bank (as ascertained from a formula, the amount of yards put in and the distance made being known) is 55 feet, thus making a fill of this height when the original section called for only 6 feet. Some idea may be formed of the amount of work required to complete the south end, from the following calculation based on actual measurement : "In the month of February 7,500 yards were put in and only gained 30 feet. Had the swamp not settled, and with the original section, this amount of earth would have made some- thing over three fourths of a mile. The settling is very grad- ual, and when the bank once ceases to settle, it never varies
268
HISTORY OF ERIE COUNTY.
afterward,1 A portion made up to grade in 1857 has not set- tled an inch, thus guaranteeing a good and safe bank, though a costly one,
"Large night forces were put on this work-200 men, 20 cars, and 18 horses worked day and night as faithfully as pos- sible. It presented a lively appearance at night to see the fires and lanterns strung along the banks, and to hear the voices of the men, and the rumbling noise of the cars breaking the peaceful quietude."
To those in the vicinity who had never before witnessed earth swallow earth, or suspected an old lake under cover, with its gravel bottom forty feet below, it must have been a matter of very great surprise.
Near Union a similar but smaller sinkhole was found ; and also at Hartstown, Crawford County, on the canal, one of twice the extent of the one at Waterford.
Meadows in the West have broken through and sunk, while others have been so like a spring floor that the weight of a cart was never hazarded upon them, but the harvest secured by long pitchforks. "All belong to a class of which there are myriads in the drift region of North America. The largest Superior, and others that scarcely hold a gallon, as to supply and position, are to be accounted for in exactly the same man- ner."
The Devil's Backbone .- About three and a half miles south- east from the borough of Girard is a most remarkable place, which deserves a better name than "The Devil's Backbone." The country is very romantic and extremely hilly, rising ap- parently to a very great height. Reaching the farm of Mr. Blair, one of the first settlers, the drive is along the edge of a fearful ravine, the road lying frightfully near, and but for the thick growth of trees on its border would be absolutely dan- gerous. Leaving the horses and carriage, a walk of a few moments opens to view a magnificent prospect. Beneath, ap- pears a large hollow, the precipitous sides of which, as well as the bank beyond, are covered with magnificent forest trees. In the middle of this rises the " Backbone," a ridge of sand
1 This treacherous swamp occasioned difficulty after the cars commenced running.
269
HISTORY OF ERIE COUNTY.
and slate one hundred feet in height, with a base of but sixty feet. This is two hundred feet in length, one side being partly covered with trees, while the other is entirely bare. The top of the back; which is from one to twelve inches in width, is a narrow but rather dangerous walk, but affords a view truly grand, Elk Creek being around the point and on both sides having worn its bed through the soil to a very great depth. The abrupt height of the ridge, its narrow base, the deep bed of the stream, with the beauty of the surrounding scenery, compose the extraordinary landscape.
Half a mile distant is another pyramidal ridge covered with grass, not so high or peculiar, called the "Nose." Here there are forks in the creek, and the whole is wild and pic- turesque.
The description is miserably unjust, but none could be fully adequate-in the worn out words, " it must be seen to be truly appreciated."
As to the flora of this region, we cannot do better than to quote a few words of Prof. L. G. Olmstead : " We consider the county and immediate vicinity of Erie by far the best botanizing district with which we are ac- quainted throughout a large district of country. We have upon the peninsula a very great variety of plants, many of which are not found on the main land, but are common only to Western prairies. The marshes, ponds, bogs, etc., afford a great variety of marsh and aquatic plants.
"Among the plants that some of our best florists would travel many miles to see, are the Saracenia purpurea or pitcher plant ; several varieties of Potamogeton, which are aquatic ; Batschia canescens, Enchococinea, found on the Western prairies ; Hydopeltis purpurea, and several species of Utricu- laria."
The sweetbrier, which has been much admired and particu- larly adorns the green banks of the lake in the western part of the town, is not, like the wild rose, indigenous, the first plant having been brought from Carlisle, by Gen. Kelso. Some specimens of the double sweetbrier have been found on the Peninsula.
CHAPTER XIX.
Miscellaneous Items, among which are: A Tradition-General Wayne-An Anecdote-Price of Provisions-William W. Reed, Esq .- First National Celebration-Churches-The Garrison-A Relic-Saturday Afternoon-Game-Mrs. P.'s Reminiscences-H. Russel's Journal-An early Settler in Fairview-La Fayette's Visit in Erie-Cholera-Perry Monument-An Informal Meeting -Speculation-Fires-Sad Accidents-Ex-President Adams- Patriot War-Old Courthouse Bell-Pioneers-Perry -- Lieutenant Yarnall-Survivors of the Battle of Lake Erie-Perry Monument at Cleveland-Inventions-Moravian Lands -- Omissions.
A Tradition .- The Eries were alarmed when they heard of the confederation of the Mohawks, Oneidas, Onondagas, Cayugas, and Senecas residing in Central New York, and re- garded them as natural enemies. To satisfy themselves, they sent a message to the Senecas, who resided nearest to them, inviting them to select one hundred of their most active, athletic men to play a game of ball against the same number selected from the Eries, for a wager worthy of the occasion and nation.
The message was received in the most respectful manner, but the challenge declined. The next year the offer was re- newed and again declined. At the third offer, the young Iroquois could be no longer restrained, the wise councils which had hitherto prevailed were set aside, and the challenge accepted. After the selection, the party being the flower of the tribe, a most solemn charge was given them to acquit themselves as the worthy representatives of a great and power- ful people, anxious to cultivate peace and friendship with neighboring tribes. The party then took up the line of march for Tu-shu-way (Buffalo), sent a messenger to notify the Eries of their approach, and the next day made a grand entrée. They brought no weapon. The bat was a hickory stick, about five feet long, bent over at the end, and thong netting
270
271
HISTORY OF ERIE COUNTY.
woven into a bow. Their wager, which was matched by the Eries, consisted of piles of elegant wampum, costly jewels, silver bands, and beautifully ornamented moccasins. The game began, and though contested with desperation and great skill by the Eries, the Iroquois bore off the prize in triumph. The Iroquois having accomplished the object of their visit were about to return, when the Eries proposed a foot race between ten of their number, at "Kanswans " or Eighteen Mile Creek. The victor in the race was to dispatch his adversary with a tomahawk and bear off his scalp as a trophy. This the Iro- quois accepted, secretly intending to waive the bloody part of the proposition should their tribe be victors. The Eries were again vanquished, but the Iroquois declined to execute their victim. At this the chief of the Eries came forward, and, quick as thought, himself dispatched the vanquished warrior, who was dragged out of the way and another champion placed in his stead. This was three times repeated, and the Iroquois seeing the great excitement that prevailed, made a signal to depart, and, gathering up their trophies, proceeded home- ward.
The Eries knew no mode of securing peace but by the ex- termination of their enemies ; it being no part of their charac- ter to cultivate and strengthen friendship. They knew to contend with them collectively would be useless. Immedi- ately they organized a powerful party of warriors-hoping to be an equal match to their powerful neighbors by surprising the Senecas, who resided on Seneca Lake. But a woman re- siding among them who had a stronger interest in the Iro- quois, secretly gave them warning, and five thousand war- riors were organized and marched out to meet them. The two parties met at Honeoye, where a bloody and desper- ate battle was fought. The Eries were driven seven times across the stream and as often regained their ground. But a few of the vanquished Eries escaped to convey the news of their terrible overthrow, and these were pursued, and all that fell into the enemies' hands put to death. For weeks the pur- suit was continued, and it was five months before the victo- rious party of the five nations returned with their trophies, having subdued their last and most powerful enemies. Tra-
272
HISTORY OF ERIE COUNTY.
dition adds that the descendants of the Eries returned from beyond the Mississippi and attacked the Senecas, then settled in the seat of their fathers, Tu-shu-way; and that a great bat- tle was fought, and the Eries slain to a man, near the site of the (Cattaraugus) Indian Missionhouse.
General Wayne .- The following newspaper article, by Rev. L. G. Olmstead, is copied partly for the purpose of adding a word of explanation in reference to the disinterment of Gen. Wayne, at Erie, in 1809 :
" On arriving at Erie, he (Colonel Isaac Wayne) employed ' Old Dr. Wallace,' so called to distinguish him from the present Dr. Wallace, to take up his father's remains, pack the boxes in as small a space as possible and lash them on to the hinder part of his sulky. Dr. Wallace took up the remains and found them in a perfect state of preservation, except one foot. The body had been buried in full uniform, and the boot on the decayed foot was also decayed, while the other boot remained sound, and a man by the name of Duncan had a mate to it and wore them out. Duncan's foot, like the general's, was very large. Dr. Wallace cut and boiled the flesh off the bones, packed them in a box, lashed them to the carriage, and they were brought and deposited beside the rest of his family in the above named churchyard.
." I visited Gen. Wayne's old residence in the summer of 1857, and found everything much as he had left it. The house is an elegant, old two-story mansion, now occupied by his grandson. The parlors and sitting-rooms are as they were. There are portraits and engravings of men of the Rev- olution, hanging on the walls, as on the 3d of April, 1792, when he was appointed to the command of the Western army. Around the house and over the farm, while the fences and buildings are in a good condition, yet they assured me it is about as he left it. Everything appeared as though it had be- longed to a gentleman of the old school, a race now said to be ex- tinct. The premises looked, and I felt, as though the old hero, whose very name was once a terror to the murderous red man, might be expected back in an hour or so, and a dreamy im- pression seemed to steal over me that if I waited a little I should see him. I should have liked much to have questioned
273
HISTORY OF ERIE COUNTY.
him about Three Rivers, and Brandywine, and Germantown, and Monmouth, and Stony Point, and Yorktown, and the Indians, and how the city appeared when she was only a year old. And I seemed to hold my breath and listen as many an old Indian had done, for his footsteps and his fearful oaths ; yet he did not come, and I passed on some three miles to his final resting place."
G. Sanford, who came to Erie in 1810, and was well ac- quainted with Dr. J. C. Wallace, heard him more than once allude to this circumstance. Mr. Sanford's impression is that Col. Wayne put up at Buehler's hotel, and did not visit the grave of his father, but sent for Dr. Wallace and made known the object of his visit, requesting him to superintend the re- moval and place the remains in a suitable condition for the journey, Dr. Wallace was a skillful surgeon of the army and a man of the first standing, and Col. Wayne could not have selected a more suitable person to carry out his design. Both must have supposed the body, thirteen years after death, to have returned to corruption, That Dr. Wallace pursued the wisest course the nature of the case would admit of, none who knew him would for a moment doubt. As a military man he was accustomed to obey orders, but it was with his operations as with other surgeons, not always an agreeable subject to dis- cuss minutely,
An Anecdote .- The details of the first year's residence of a wealthy citizen of the county who settled near Waterford, present a model of patience and industry worthy of study and imitation. On landing, one of the few settlers offered him employment in going to the woods to split puncheons, for which he was to have fifty cents a day. This occupation con- sists in splitting fair chestnut logs two or three times and smoothing them with an axe, to be used as a substitute for boards in making a floor. After a week of hard work at the puncheons (with hoeing potatoes before breakfast added), reckoning day came, and he found he was charged seventy- five cents per day for board ! Legal redress was not to be thought of, as there was no law this side of Pittsburg, which was then almost as difficult of access as Pike's Peak. He tied up his effects in his yellow cotton handkerchief, and was about
274
HISTORY OF ERIE COUNTY.
starting, when his employer called out, " Where did you split the puncheons ?" (He had been called " the green Yankee.") " You call me green, and I am ; but not green enough to tell you that !" was the spirited reply.
(Many years after he saw the decayed puncheons on the spot where he left them, near the site of the courthouse).
The settler then walked six or eight miles to the location of a farmer, and, finding no warrant upon the tract adjoining him, he secured it, and immediately put in a crop of potatoes. These, when the size of birds' eggs, he used for food, for he had no other. In November the potatoes were gone, and after having scooped out a log for a canoe, he floated down the river, seeking employment. At Pittsburg no engagement offering, he put himself up at auction, at the market, pro- claiming from a horseblock, that he " could do any work that any other man could do," and a Dutchman gave him a bid of three dollars a month and board. (This time he was careful to mention the board). Here he remained three months, and was offered for the future three dollars and fifty cents per month, but he paid out his nine dollars for a barrel of flour and poled himself up to Waterford ; from this he carried his flour, thirty pounds at a time, to his farm three miles distant.
Price of Provisions, etc .- Among Esquire Rees's papers we find a bill dated 1792, "For services in viewing the county, $193.43." Another, "To Indians for hunting, $50."
Other accounts, dated 1797, show provisions at the following prices : Potatoes, 12 shillings per bushel ; corn 16 shillings ; oats, 12 shillings ; wheat, 20 shillings per bushel ; pork, $30 per barrel ; sugar, 33 cents ; loaf sugar, 87 cents per pound, etc.
In 1813-14 provisions commanded a still higher price ; corn $4, and oats $3 per bushel.
The first white man born in the "Triangle" was William W. Reed, son of John C. Reed, and grandson of Col. S. Reed, in Erie, February 20, 1797. He became a merchant in Ashta- bula, Ohio, but had resided in Erie a few years previous to his decease, September 9, 1851.
The First Celebration of our National Independence recorded was the Fourth of July, 1797, near Colt's Station. Mr. Colt
275
HISTORY OF ERIE COUNTY.
says : "Tuesday being the twenty-second anniversary of the Independence of America, at the expense of the Pennsylvania Population Company we gave an entertainment to about seventy-five people, settlers of the said company. A bower was erected under two large maple trees, and when the hearts of the people were cheered with good fare, sundry toasts were drunk suitable to the occasion. After I had withdrawn, one James Crawford offered the following : 'May Judah Colt, agent of the Population Company, drive the intruders before him as Samson did the Philistines! Three cheers !' and the woods rang with a roar of laughter for some time." 1
First Court .- When the circuit court met for the first time in the county, several of the citizens rode out to escort Judge Yates into town, but were disappointed in not meeting him. The court met in a room rented by the commissioners, on French Street, between Second and Third Streets. As the first day was election day, business was postponed, and in the afternoon, in honor of the judge and strangers, a large sailing party of ladies and gentlemen went over to the peninsula.
Churches .- Previous to 1811 there was seldom church to at- tend, but the few who could do so conveniently would ride to " Fairview or Northeast, where were church organizations and settled pastors at an early day. Among the itinerants at a later day was Rev. Mr. Judd, who periodically, for several years, held meetings in Col. Forster's vacant room, on the cor- ner of French and Fifth streets. He was esteemed a man of zeal and strong faith, but somewhat eccentric ; having been connected with the Presbyterian, Baptist, and Methodist churches, he was now free from all ecclesiastical rule. In the selection of elders, with him piety was of no account-in- fluence was the indispensable qualification. Hence, his men in Erie were Captain Deacon, the commanding officer, Purser Carr, and Mr. Reed the wealthiest citizen. On one occasion, after reading the hymn, no one appeared " to raise the tune," and he remarked that he wished "Captain Deb. was there, and she could do it," meaning his wife. He then asked if there was not some lady who would undertake it, when one
1 This refers to " actual settlers," and not Indians, as the agent often had perils in dispossessing them.
' 276
HISTORY OF ERIE COUNTY.
kindly volunteered, and in due time all went on in a becom- ing and reverential manner.
An anecdote is related which shows the class of people our ministers had to deal with, even long after this. On one oc- casion the parson thought proper to exclude from the com- munion one of his members who had been guilty of intemper- ance, by the name of Folwell. In consequence of this a near connection came to thrash the parson. After the matter had been discussed, and the irritated avenger (who, for the preach- er's eye, had not been able to execute his threat) being some- what restored to reason, he exclaimed, " Faith, sir, and when ye come till heaven ye'll find the Folwells theer!" With this ultimatum of his rage he departed.
At an early day the garrison seemed to be the general resort for citizens and strangers, an officer of the army having com- mand until about 1806. At the time Gen. Wayne's remains were removed, in 1809, and previously, Captain D. Dobbins was residing in the large building, in the center of the ground, erected for the commanding officer ; one of the gates was down and the works were going to decay. Gen. Wayne, when he was landed in an almost dying state, chose to be tenanted in the upper part of the east block house. It seems the attics of the three were fitted up as dwellings. We have mentioned elsewhere that these block houses were on the east side of the creek, and built in 1795 for the protection of the State Com- missioners, General William Irvine and Andrew Ellicot, who were laying out the town. Captain John Grubb brought on a militia force at the time.1 The names of the officers who com- manded at different times were Captain Russel Bissel, in 1797 ; Captain Cornelius Lyman, until 1801 ; Captain McCall, and Gen. Callender Irvine. Captain Lyman is described as a per- fect gentleman, notwithstanding which he was court-martialed in Erie, in 1798, for a want of hospitality (in what particular in- stance is not recorded), but was honorably acquitted. In 1801 (Mr. Colt notes), "Col. Hamtramck arrived from Pittsburg, on his way to Detroit. On entering the garrison a salute from the fort, of sixteen guns, was fired, and also one from the
1 Captain Grubb was a worthy citizen. He received the appointment of Associate Judge about 1813, and resided on his farm in Mill Creek until his death in June, 1845.
277
HISTORY OF ERIE COUNTY.
United States armed vessel Wilkeson, in the harbor ; at the same time a large brig from Fort Erie, of two hundred tons, came in." In April, 1802, a ball was given at the garrison, which, Mr. Colt remarks, " was a very agreeable affair."
A Relic .- In 1804 or 1805 an iron cannon, a three pounder, was found by Gen. Kelso, near the Cascade, partly imbedded in sand. The probability is that it belonged to the French. At the time of their occupation, and previously, there was a road on the sand beach, and in transporting stores this might have been for some reason abandoned. Gen. K. or his heirs disposed of it many years ago to a citizen of Black River, Ohio.
In a number of the newspaper Mirror, of 1808, we find that the sum of forty-two dollars was paid William Davidson for clearing the public square.
It has been remarked of Mill Creek, that in 1810 it contained four times the quantity of water that it does at present and was quite a large turbulent stream, and about Third Street there was quite a pretty cascade. The gradual diminution of streams has been remarked in all new countries. It is sup- posed to be the result of increased evaporation occasioned by the removal of trees, and also by the plowed ground, which absorbs large quantities of water.
Saturday Afternoon .- An early custom prevailed in Erie that must have been highly unpopular with some-that of calling out every man on Saturday afternoon to dig out stumps in the streets. This was before 1810.
There was an ordinance also compelling citizens to dig three stumps from the highways of the town as a punishment for every bacchanal revel they engaged in. This ordinance was repealed at an informal meeting held in front of the Reed House, in June, 1846, the principal object being in congratula- tion of the puplic benefit received by the adornment of the public square with trees, and when it received the name of Perry Square.
As to game, the early settlers found an abundance of deer, rabbits, foxes, squirrels, opossums, etc. As late as 1804, Mr. Hamlin Russel enters in his journal : "January 1-Cloudy morning ; clears off ; hunt bears, wolves, panthers, wild cats,
278
HISTORY OF ERIE COUNTY.
etc." Panthers are not often spoken of in Erie County. In Buffalo we hear of one being shot, in 1827, one mile and a half from the present courthouse.
In 1808 are to be found, among county expenditures, $80 paid for wolf scalps. The bounty was probably $10 per head- afterward, for many years, it was $12. The few scalps pre- sented for bounty at that early day indicate the sparseness of the population and their want of leisure for such pursuits. In 1813 Mr. Russel lost four sheep by wolves. In 1828 sheep could not be kept at Colt's Station on account of their frequent visits : $72.74 was paid by the county for scalps in 1834, $85.90 in 1836.
Probably the last of the wild cat species in the county was shot by Mr. Abram Knapp, at Lake Pleasant, in 1857.
A copy of the Erie Gazette, dated August, 1820, has the fol- lowing advertisement :
" A Hunting we will go !- A party of gentlemen intend go- , ing to the head of the peninsula, on Wednesday morning next, if fair-if not, the next fair morning-for the purpose of forming a line across it at the head and marching abreast down to the point, where boats will be stationed to follow game that may take to the water. A meeting will be held on Monday evening next at the courthouse, for the purpose of making the necessary arrangements."
Foxes are still abundant. J. W. Silverthorn shot twenty in the neighborhood of Girard, in the winter of 1861, and many other sportsmen were quite successful in the same way.
In 1862 several minks were found and sold as high as 14 shillings a piece.
Mrs. P.'s Reminiscences .- Mrs. P., who remembers Erie in 1803, says : The pickets were standing around parts of old Fort Presqu'ile at that time. A ruined, peculiar looking house of stone and timber was also standing, and near by was a very deep well. Indian beads and other relics were found on the ground.
When the fleet was building, a small party returned from the peninsula very greatly excited, maintaining that they had seen three British spies, in red coats, and made oath to the fact before a magistrate. As fears were entertained of the
Need help finding more records? Try our genealogical records directory which has more than 1 million sources to help you more easily locate the available records.