USA > Rhode Island > Pictures of Rhode Island in the past, 1642-1833 > Part 12
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Muddy Dock did not look in the old days as if it would be ever graced and flanked by a seven storied hotel costing about a million of dollars, the popular Opera House and the handsome spacious Masonic building. Where the latter building stands there was a neck of land built upon the shore on which was erected the Second Baptist Church, (now the Central). There was a stone wall back of the lot the whole width
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of it, against which the tide flowed. On the side of it to about the centre of what is now Eddy street, the tide covered a gently sloping sandy shore where in the then pure river water, the rite of baptism by immersion was observed. . .
In 1810, there were but few stores on Weybosset Broad or Westminster streets. Broad ran to the junc- tion of High and Pawtuxet streets. Pawtuxet street was the main road to the place. It is now the contin- uation of Broad street.
All the shops for dry goods were on the west side of North Main street, which was known as Cheapside. About 1820, the first lower part of a dwelling house on Westminster street was altered for the sale of dry goods, and occupied by Capt. William Russell, who was a favored dealer in that business for many years. Capt. Russell was followed by others in the same busi- ness till old Cheapside was deserted by its noted trade and name. Now spacious blocks of buildings for business purposes, take the place of the family resi- dences and the yearly rent would more than purchase all the estate in 1810.
The family dwellings, on Broad and Weybosset streets, have also mainly been given up for business purposes. Large blocks built of stone and brick now cover the sites of the former homes and gardens.
Where the Arcade now stands on the west half of the south end, Benjamin and Charles Dyer had a brick building used by them as a drug and medicine store. The east half of the Arcade lot was a part of the Butler estate, with the family residence in the rear. The house was a very common two-story building of wood with a large yard in which one or more cows were kept when home at night from the pasture, and the spare milk was sold to the neighbors. Many families owned cows then which were driven off to not far distant pastures and returned at night.
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Whitman's Block, at the junction of Weybosset and Westminster streets, was a noted feature as a building in my earlier years. It was one of the great things of the day, and was talked about all over the town and state as the Arcade building was twenty or more years later. With the Turks Head on a post as high as a lamp post, the junction became known by that name and is still retained after seventy years of its absence.
Whitman's Block was used for family tenements with the exception of one store at its junction.
1812. Henry Cogswell Knight.
Mr. Knight (c. 1788-1835) was born in Gloucester, Massachusetts, and graduated at Brown University in the class of 1812. He was ordained into the Episcopal Church, but was never settled over any parish. He published several volumes of poetry, a volume on the South, and two volumes of sermons. He was a keen observer of men and things, and is quoted as saying, respecting his own somewhat vacillating career, that he " could not find the right branches of the tree of knowl- edge by which to climb up." While in college he wrote a series of eleven letters to the " Rhode Island Ameri- ' can," which have been collected and annotated by Mr. William R. Staples, of Providence (1866).
The volume is entitled A Glance at the Town of Providence in 1812. The quotation given is taken from Chapter IV. Of Signs.
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HENRY COGSWELL KNIGHT.
Providenee river runs through the town near enough north and south for my purpose ; and on the east side runs Main street parallel with it; at about twenty, thirty, or forty rods distance of gradual rise from the water, runs Baek street parallel with Main street. These two, together with Westminster and Weybosset streets, which diverge westerly from the market, form the four eardinal streets of this busy town.
On the right hand side of the street [ Main street] [I notiee] the signs of three leather-workers almost eon- tiguous to each other. The first obtrudes upon the eye a saddle, painted upon a swing board ; The next soothes the mind with a milk-white lambkin, carved and elevated upon a pedestal ; The last offers you a couchant reindeer, with branehing antlers ; . we approach near the Baptist meet-
ing house ; - there . on the left side, an apotheeary has perehed over his door a purblind owl. near the market on cheapside, you espy a pur- ple cluster of grapes suspended over the door of an English goods shop. . . Glanee . . aeross the street and there is nature herself-a lion pounding in a mortar. . cross over the bridge, and see what there is upon a pillar near the post-office ;- ah ! the Turk's Head-as very like the Grand Turk, I am told, as is the statue at India-Point bridge like our good old Captain Washington. Cross over into Wey- bosset street when now what think you I see ? a neat little earved and gilded Rhinoceros, cruelly suspended by his baek before the door of a groeer. You observe near the post-office, whither we have returned, a suspended hive of bees ;- this is also above the door of a groeer.
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PICTURES OF RHODE ISLAND.
1818. Henry Bradshaw Fearon.
Fearon was a London surgeon, who was sent by thirty-nine English families to the United States, in 1817, to ascertain what part of this country, if any, would be suitable for their residence. He gave an account of his experiences, which Sydney Smith pro- nounced exaggerated in its views of vices and preju- dices. The following extract is taken from this Nar- rative of a journey of 5000 miles through the Eastern and Western States of America, 2d ed., pp. 98, et seq. (Lon- don, 1818.)
On entering PROVIDENCE, the capital of Rhode Island, I was much pleased with its beauty. In its appearance, it combined the attractions of Southampton and Doncaster. There are manufactories in the neigh- borhood. On that account I took up my abode at Chapotan's Inn until the 11th.
Here is an excellent market-house, a workhouse, four or five public schools, an university with a tolerable library, a public library, and an hospital. Several of the churches are very handsome ; they, as well as many private houses, are built of wood, painted white, with green Venetian shutters, presenting a neat elegance very superior to our smoky brick buildings. I have not seen a town in Europe or America, which bore the appearance of general prosperity equal to Providence. Ship and house-builders were fully occupied, as indeed were all classes of mechanics. The residents are native Americans. Foreign emigrants seem never to think of
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New England. Rent and provisions are much lower than at New York.
At Pawtucket, four miles from Providence, are 13 cotton manufactories ; six of which are on a large scale. They are not the property of individuals, but of com- panies. I visited three of these. They had excellent machinery ; not more than one half of which was in operation. The articles manufactured are the same as described at Fishkill [viz. the coarser cotton cloths]. Children from six to ten years of age, of both sexes, are paid 6s. 9d. per week ; ditto, 11 to 16, 10s. per week ; women, 12s .; men, 27s. to 31s. 6d. Very few of the latter are employed. Several of the manufacto- ries of this place are situated on a fine fall of water, 50 feet in length, and passing through several chasms in a rock which extends across the river. The scenic effect of the fall is most materially injured by the situation of Pawtucket bridge.
To a labouring man who accompanied me through the manufactories, I gave half a dollar. I remarked that he addressed men of similar appearance to himself by the titles of " major," "captain," and "colonel." The population of this village is very trifling, yet it has " TWO BANKS !" The persons employed at all the manufactories combined, are not equal in number to those at one of moderate size in Lancashire. A con- siderable portion of weaving is done by women, who have or live in farm-houses. They receive 3}d. per yard for & wide stout dark gingham ; an article which is sold at 131d. wholesale, and 15d. retail. These female weavers do not in general follow the occupation regularly ; it is done during their leisure hours, and at the dull time of the year. Some, who have no other means of support except service (which is unpopular in America) lodge with farmers, and give half the pro- duce of their labour for their board and lodging.
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PICTURES OF RHODE ISLAND.
The Pawtucket manufacturers have shops or stores in Providence. On their doors a board is affixed, " Weaving given out." During a conversation with a proprietor of one of these establishments, a woman came in, who, from her independent (though not im- pudent) air, I supposed must be a customer. His ad- dress to her, " I'll attend to you directly," confirmed my opinion. She replied, "I want work, Boss, I guess, for Harriet Angel." He immediately called to his assist- ant, " Where is that work, for Miss Angel."-What would a starving Manchester weareress say to this ? and how would Sir Robert Peel feel if addressed in the true language of honest independence ?
1821. President Timothy Dwight.
Dr. Dwight (1752-1817), who in his day was almost the pope of Federalist and Congregational New Eng- land, was president of Yale College from 1795 to 1817. His administration marked an epoch in the develop- ment of the college. In 1795 he began the practice of making long journeys throughout New England, and of writing elaborate accounts of them. When his eyes failed, his students of the senior class asked permission to supply their place, by writing in turn from his dic- tation. Thus came into existence the volumes of his Travels in New England and New York. The follow- ing passages are taken from the New Haven edition of ° 1821, II. 29-35.
Providence is built on the Western side of Pawtucket river, in two divisions ; one on the Eastern, and the
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other on the Western side of a cove, which is an arm of that river. The site of the Western division is a slope, gradually rising from the cove ; that of the East- ern is the narrow base, and the side, of a lofty hill, which runs between the cove and the river to the point of their junction. The two principal streets on the Eastern side, pass, one at the bottom, and the other at a little distance along the side, of this hill, until they terminate at the river. The principal street on the Western side is a part of the great road towards New- London and Hartford. Those, on the East, are crossed by several others nearly at right angles.
Many of the houses in this town are ancient, and ordinary ; many more are modern buildings, and would be called good houses in a New-England village ; al- though inferiour to a multitude of houses in such vil- lages. A small number are of a character superiour to this ; and three or four are splendid .*
The public buildings in Providence, are a College ; three Presbyterian, one Episcopalian, and two Baptist Churches : a Friends' meeting-house ; a court-house ; a gaol ; a work-house ; and a market.
The Baptist church is a very good building, with an uncommonly handsome steeple : too high, however, for the body of the Church. Its situation is disadvan- tageous : the hill, before mentioned, rising suddenly behind it, and making it appear lower than it really is.
The Presbyterian church on High-street is located with taste ; and, both within and without, is one of the handsomest churches in New-England. It is fronted with two towers ; each crowned with a well appearing cupola. +
* Since this was written, a great number of good houses have been built in Providence, of which a considerable proportion may be justly styled elegant. Two new churches, an Episcopal, and a Pres- byterian, both honourable to the inhabitants, have lately been erected. Few towns in New-England have been more improved in their appearance.
In the year 1814, this church was consumed by fire
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PICTURES OF RHODE ISLAND.
The Court-House is a decent building.
The morals of Providence are probably superiour to those of any other town in this State. The usual order of things, with respect to morality, seems here to be inverted. In most other States the country is more virtuous than the city. Here, a general, and honor- able, regard to morality, and a general performance of its duties, such as is found in other respectable towns of this country, appears to prevail. Many years have not elapsed since the market, the street, and the wharves, were little less frequented on the Sabbath, than on other days. You will remember, that the Sab- bath in this state is neither regarded by the laws, nor sanctioned by any general religious observance. We saw a few carts entering the town ; but were informed, that the number had yearly decreased for a considerable time, and that the inhabitants were strongly, as well as generally opposed to this indecent intrusion.
The present town of Providence contained in 1790, 6380 inhabitants ; in 1800, 7614, and, in 1810, 10,071.
Providence is the third town in New-England, in its population and commerce, and probably the first as to manufactures. The inhabitants, like those of Salem, have been obliged to combat many disadvantages, but in the end have surmounted them with a spirit of in- dustry, enterprise, and perseverance, rarely displayed. The country around them, particularly in their own State, is generally so lean, as scarcely to supply its in- habitants with food. But the merchants by their ac- tivity and prudence have engrossed, to a considerable extent, the custom, and produce, of the neighboring regions of Massachusetts, and Connecticut. They have, also, engaged in several kinds of manufactures with a spirit, and success, unrivalled in this country.
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DR. BENJAMIN WATERHOUSE.
1822. Dr. Benjamin Waterhouse.
Dr. Benjamin Waterhouse (1754-1846) was a physician of Newport, who aided in establishing the Medical School at Harvard, and then became professor of medicine there. He was also professor of natural history at Rhode Island College (Brown University), from 1784 to 1801, and gave, in the State House at Providence, the first course of lectures upon that science in this country. He was prominent in introducing vaccination into America. In his political views Dr. Waterhouse was an enthusiastic Jeffersonian. The fol- lowing extract is taken from a letter to Jefferson, writ- ten at Newport in 1822, and printed in the Publications of the Rhode Island Historical Society, New Series, II. 177, 178.
After thus boasting of our great men, before the brag- gadocia spirit evaporates entirely, I must speak of the Island itself. I have seen not a little of other countries, but I never saw any Island that unites finer views, rendered pleasant by variety, of hill & vale, rocks, reefs, beaches, Islands & perennial ponds than this. Until I saw other parts of the world I did not suffi- ciently appreciate this. I have always heard it praised by strangers, and long remember it the resort of the opulent invalid, since I can remember anything, but I never duly estimated its beauties until this visit ; when I have explored it from shore to shore in every direc- tion, & cease to wonder at its celebrity. Before the discovery of our mineral springs Rh. Island was in one view the Bath of the American world, & the lumber
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room of the colonial faculty. What they could not cure they threw in a heap here. This and the " Red- wood Library " gave it both a literary & a genteel air ; and rendered it the best bred society in N. England. But-alas !- how changed !- The British destroyed, for fuel, about 900 buildings, to be sure the poorer sort ; yet it has never recovered the delapidation. The town of Providence has risen to riches & elegance from the ruins of this once beautiful spot; while Newport resembles an old battered shield-Its scars & bruises are deep & indeliable. Commerce, & all the Jews are fled. The wharves are deserted & the lamp in the synagogue is extinct ; and the people are now so poor, that there are not more than 10, or a dozen people who would have the courage to invite a stranger to his table. General Dearborn has demonstrated to me that it never can be a safe naval station ; and that it can never be so fortifyed as to resist a powerful attack by sea. They must therefore stick to the spirit of their ancient motto -In Domino speravimus.
1826. Anne Royall.
Mrs. Royall (1769-1854) was born in Virginia, stolen by the Indians when a child, and kept a captive for fifteen years. She married a Captain Royall. Sub- sequently she moved to Washington, and published a small weekly paper called the " Washington Paul Pry." John Quincy Adams described her as going about " like a virago-errant in enchanted armor, redeeming herself from the cramps of indigence by the notoriety of her eccentricities and the forced currency they gave to her
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ANNE ROYALL.
publications." John W. Forney says, "She was the terror of politicians, and especially of congressmen. I can see her now tramping through the halls of the old capitol, umbrella in hand, seizing upon every passer-by and offering her book for sale." She wrote several books of travels in the United States, and one novel.
The quotation given is taken from her Sketches of History, Life, and Manners in the United States, pp. 368, 369. (New Haven, 1826.)
Providence is a very romantic town, lying partly on two hills and partly on a narrow plain, about wide enough for two streets. It is divided by Providence River (over which there is a bridge) on both sides of which, on the margin, are the principal houses of busi- ness. On one side of the river the ascent is sudden, on the other, it is gradual. It contains 14 houses for public worship, a college, a jail, a theatre, a market- house, 8 banks, an alms-house, part of which is a hos- pital, and 12,800 inhabitants. The churches are very splendid, and the jail is tolerable ; but the poor-house does not deserve the name, and the hospital is a wretched abode, disgraceful to the town. I found about half a dozen prisoners in the jail, in all, some of whom were confined for debt. These, however, bore the marks of humane treatment. The poor-house is in an old build- ing in the most unwholesome part of the town. There were about twenty paupers in it, the dirtiest set of beings I ever saw. I found five maniacs in the hos- pital, lying on straw upon the floor, which looked as though it had not been swept or washed for years. The citizens, however, are engaged in measures to ren- der these establishments more comfortable. Providence is mostly built of wood, though there are many fine
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PICTURES OF RHODE ISLAND.
brick edifices in it. The Presbyterian church is orna- mented with a handsome dome and collonade, and is one of the finest buildings in the United States. The streets are wide and regular, and most of them paved, with handsome side-walks, planted with trees. It is a very flourishing beautiful town, and carries on an ex- tensive trade with the East Indies. They have, besides this, a number of coasting vessels employed in the cot- ton business. The town of Providence alone owns 6 cotton factories, 2 woollen factories, 12 jeweller's shops, where jewelry is manufactured for exportation. It has also, many iron foundries, where those iron looms for the cotton factories are made ; likewise a bleaching es- tablishment, where 12,000 yards are finished per day. It employs 60 hands and has a capital of $40,000. Rhode-Island is the greatest manufacturing state in the Union, having, at least, 150 cotton factories, and the whole business of these is done by Providence. Be- sides those articles, Providence manufactures various others. The citizens are mostly men of extensive capital. The firm of Brown & Ives is among the great- est in New England. I made several attempts to visit
Brown University, but was finally disappointed.
I
called several times at the house of the President, but never found him in. The buildings stand on the high- est part of the town, in a beautiful situation, but they are not extraordinary, either for size or architecture. I saw but two old brick buildings, with much of the glass broken out of the windows, and with every ap- pearance of neglect and decay ; and, worse than all that, I saw a specimen of the politeness of the students, which reflects no great honour upon the Institution. I am told it is well endowed, has a president and 10 professors, and averages 150 students. By a rule, the president and a majority of the trustees must be of the Baptist religion. This sect is the prevailing religion of Providence.
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THOMAS HAMILTON.
Manners and Appearance .- The citizens of Provi- dence are mild, unassuming, artless, and the very milk of human kindness. They are genteel, but not so re- fined as the people of Boston. Most of them are deeply and closely engaged in business, and they have not that leisure to improve by reading, which the Bostonians have; nor do they travel so much as the citizens of Salem. They are an industrious, enterprising people, and have all the hospitality and frankness of the New- Englanders. They are stout, fine looking men; the ladies, particularly, are handsome, and many of them highly accomplished. Both sexes are remarkable for plainness [of speech ?], and have a very independent carriage.
1833. Thomas Hamilton.
Thomas Hamilton (1789-1842) was a Scotchman, and writer of some literary ability,-a younger brother of Sir William Hamilton, the metaphysician. He served as an officer in the Peninsular campaign, and in New Brunswick and Nova Scotia. For many years he was a contributor to " Blackwood," and is served with a special personal compliment in the " Noctes " (I.89). His novel, " Cyril Thornton " had a great reputation in its day. His book on America was popular, and has been translated into both French and German.
The extract quoted is taken from Men and Manners in America, pp. 80-83. (Philadelphia, 1833.)
On reaching the hostelry [at Providence], its ex- ternal appearance was far from captivating. There
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was no sign-board, nor did the house display any ex- ternal symbol of the hospitality within. Below was a range of shops, and the only approach was by a narrow stair, which might have passed for clean in Rome, but would have been considered dirty in England. On en- tering, I stood for some time in the passage, and though I inquired at several members of the establishment, who brushed past me, whether I could have accommo- dation, no answer was vouchsafed. At length, advanc- ing to the bar, I observed the landlord, who was evi- dently too busily engaged in mixing brandy and water for a party of smokers, to have any attention to bestow on a stranger like myself. . during a fortunate intermission in the demand for spirits, my inquiries were at length attended to, and satisfactorily answered.
· I found that I could be supplied with a luxury I had not ventured to anticipate-a private parlour, communicating with a very comfortable bed-room. . .
Providence is the capital of the State of Rhode Island, and contains about 25,000 inhabitants. It stands at the foot and on the brow of a hill, which commands a complete view of the fine bay.
The college appears a building of some extent, and is finely situated on the summit of a neighbouring height. The roads were so obstructed by snow, as to render the ascent a matter of more difficulty than I was in the humour to encounter ; and so it was decreed, that Brown's College should remain by me unvisited. .
The only building which makes any pretension to ar- chitectural display is the Arcade, faced at either ex- tremity with an Ionic portico. Judging by the eye, the shaft of the columns is in the proportion of the Grecian Doric, an order beautiful in itself, but which, of course, is utterly barbarized by an Ionic entablature. I know not any thing in which the absence of taste in America is more signally displayed than in their archi-
THOMAS HAMILTON. 175
tecture. The guide-books declare that Provi- dence has a good deal of foreign commerce. It may® be so, but in the bay I could only count two square- rigged vessels, and something under a score of sloops nd schooners.
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