USA > Rhode Island > Pictures of Rhode Island in the past, 1642-1833 > Part 4
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These Lines below, describe a just Survey Of all the Coasts, along the ' Gansett Bay ; Therefore attend, and quickly you shall know Where it begins, and how far it doth go. From Pawcatuck, we steer'd our Course away, - And to Watch Hill we went without delay ; Which gave a Prospect of the Neighboring Shore And distant Isles, where foaming billows roar. Here Fisher's Isle appears, and looks just by And Montauk Point we plainly could descry ; Block Island also near us did appear, We took our Course, and how each Place did bear. From hence our Course did lead us on the Sands. The utmost Bounds the Billows here Commands, Whose raging Waves caress the Beach and Shore With endless Motion and a murmuring Roar :
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PICTURES OF RHODE ISLAND.
Then passing o'er the Breaches in our way Made by the Surges of the raging Sea. Where in the Land Calm Ponds we here espy'd Which rise and fall exactly with the Tide. Within these Ponds are Fish of various Kind, Which much delight and please both Taste and Mind. And many Fowls the Industrious Archer gains, Which amply doth Reward his Time and Pains, (Here in a Pond, our Caution to oppose A Horse did launch and wet his Owners Cloaths The frightened jade soon tacked himself about Which made us laugh as soon as he came out.) Then round Point Judith which was in our way The Courses there, and Length we did Survey, Then Boston Neck along that pleasant Shore We next survey'd, and found how each part bore ; (Connanicutt we also viewed full well, And other Parts too tedious here to tell.) Went on this shore, round points of Lands and Coves- Thro' various Fields and most delightful Groves, From hence along unto North Kingston shore Crossing the Meads, which Verdant Greens now wore. And then for Greenwich next, we shap'd our way, (Passing more Islands which lie in the Bay, As Hope and Prudence that most pleasant Isle And Patience also, a most fruitful Soil.) Crossing a Harbour, we came to the Town Which seems to be a Place of great Renown, For Liberty of Conscience they take Here's Church and Baptist, also those that Quake. From hence we went along with our Survey By various Turns and came to Warwick Bay And in that Town did of their Dainties eat And in soft slumbers pass'd the Night with Sleep. Here neighbouring Orchards in their verdant Blooms. The gentle Air sweetens with their Perfumes ;
43
CAPTAIN WILLIAM CHANDLER.
Which pleasing Prospect did attract our sight And charm'd our Sense of smelling with Delight. From hence we went on our Survey again By fertile Meads which join the wat'ry Main. Turning more Points, and passing on our way Came to a Place on which a Dead Man lay, A dreadful sight it was, our Blood run chill It damp't our joys and made our Spirits thrill, Ah ! what is Man ? when he by Nature's Laws Is fallen a Prey to Death's relentless Paws But vanity ? His mortal Part I mean But stop my Muse and quit this mournful Theme. From hence by Fields, and now and then a Ridge We came at length unto Pawtuxett Bridge, The Southern Bounds which Providence does claim And does divide fine Warwick from the same. Passing along still by the flowing Tide
The famous town of Providence we spy'd, To which we came, viewing how Nature made (With Art allied) this for a Place of Trade. This Pleasant Town does border on the Flood Here's neighbouring Orchards, & more back the Wood, Here's full supply to chear our hungry Souls Sr. Richard (strong) as well as Wine in Bowls. Here Men may soon any Religion find Which quickly brought brave Holland to my Mind. For here like them, one with the greatest ease May suit himself, or quit all if He please. Our haste in Business call'd us from this Town By Seaconk shore, away to Barrington Passing that Ferry, something did accrue Which the next Lines, shall give unto your view, Here jumping out our Horses from the Boat One blundering sprang which rais'd up each Man's note And tumbling o'er the Horse fell on his Back Into the Deep and wet his Master's Pack.
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PICTURES OF RHODE ISLAND.
For Bristol Town we shap'd our Course away And Poppassquash we quickly did survey, But on this shore we turn'd a while to rove, And went to Vial's and walk'd thro' his Grove. This charming Place was neat and clean, a Breese Attend the shade made by black cherry Trees, On either side a Row of large extent And nicely shading every step We went : Methinks young Lovers here with open Arms Need no young Cupids to inspire their Charms, For what can raise the Nymphs or Swains to love In sweet Caresses, sooner than this Grove. From hence (with Air) we pass thro' Bristol streets Where Generous Hearts did give their liberal Treats, Yet soon we found one of another Mould For here a Crabbed jade did at us Scold, Her grevel'd Notes yet made some of us smile Whose impeous Talk was near to Prattle Isle, Which Place we named to memorise this Scold And for her sake this story I have told.
Now next we took our Course to Castle Isle And pass'd away soon from this pleasant Soil Finding exactly how Hog-Island bore With Course and Distance to Aquetnett shore. Mount Hope from hence we plainly now espy'd Which was hard by, or near the flowing Tide, To which we came taking the Courses here To neighbouring shores, and Islands that are near. Turning aside we saw the Royal Spring
Which once belong'd unto an Indian King,
To chear our Hearts we drank the cooling stream In memory of Philip and his Queen. Next we ascended Philip's Royal Seat
Where he was slain, and all his Armies beat We saw the Place where quartered he did hang, Where joyful notes of Praise those Victors sang.
45
CAPTAIN WILLIAM CHANDLER.
Upon this Mount the wandering Eye may gaze On distant Floods, as well as neighbouring Bays Where with one Glance appears Ten Thousand charms With fruitful Islands, and most fertile Farms. Now from this Mount we went (like Men well skill'd) By Flocks and Herds which verdant Pastures fill'd, Unto Assont took the Distance here And turn'd about new Courses now to steer. From hence we went by various Towns in haste, And by Rhode-Island shore we also past Where every Turn and Cove We noted down Shaping our Courses unto Seconet Town, When we came near that pleasant place and soil I heard a story which will make you smile. A worthy Friend who lately had great Losses Amongst his stock, but chiefly in his Horses, By evil Men, who haunts his Fields by night When he's from home and kills them out of spight, This Friend relates (whose Daughter was before me) With chearful Air the following Famous Story : " One Evening clear (said he) she took up Arms " Laying aside a while her Virgin Charms.
" And walk'd abroad some of my Fields to view, " The Flocks and Herds, to see what would ensue " Then instantly with Courage being inspir'd " She at an Armed Rogue her Pistol fir'd " Crying aloud you Wretch begone from hence, " Or stand and fight me in your own Defence. " But guilty Creature, he took to his Heels " And left this Maiden in the Conquer'd Fields " Who joy'd awhile for this brave Action done, " And then return'd unto her Peaceful Home." From hence we passed along Seconet Shore, Unto its Point where Dreadful Billows roar, Whose rolling Waves come tumbling from the main And kiss the Shore and then retire again.
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PICTURES OF RHODE ISLAND.
Here may the Eye survey the tossing Sea And sport the sight with Ships that sailing be Upon this Coast, which come from distant Lands ; And then may turn and view the Beach and Sands, True Gratitude forbids I should be mute, Where Generous Souls, our Spirits do Recruit. Now sure, this Town deserves our best of Praise, Since none more strived our Spirits soon to raise. But stop my Muse, let's haste on our Survey And stretch our coast along the Eastward Bay. So then from thence we measur'd by the Sands An Eastward Course along those Pleasant Lands, And came to Dartmouth a most liberal Town Whose liquid Treats their generous Actions crown, Here is the place where we did end our Works Here we left off, (and did it with a jirk) And then retir'd our Field Book for to scan, And of this large Survey to make a Plan.
W. C.
I741. Rev. John Checkley.
The Rev. John Checkley (1680-1754), born in Boston, and celebrated for his violent controversies with the Congregational clergy of that town and his persecution, or at least prosecution, on that account, was from 1739 rector of King's Church, in Providence, now St. John's. He had travelled extensively in Europe, and was fond of collecting paintings, rare books and manuscripts. He is spoken of by writers in the early part of the present century as one of the wits of his time, and his bon-mots and witticisms were cur-
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REV. JOHN CHECKLEY.
rent for a whole generation after his death. He was universally beloved by his parishioners and by his fel- low-townsmen. The extract given here is taken from Checkley's "Notitia Parochialis," appended to the second volume of Dr. E. F. Slafter's life of him, Vol. XXIV. of the Prince Society Publications, pp. 197, 198.
NOTITIA PAROCHIALIS.
1. Number of Inhabitants,
In the towns out of which my Parishioners come (I mean those who frequent my church) about four- teen thousand people.
2. No. of the Baptized.
Impossible to tell. But I conjecture that in Providence not One in Ten, and in three Towns above Providence not one in thirty.
3. No. of adult persons baptized this half year. One.
4. No. of actual Communicants of the Ch. of England. Thirty-seven.
5. No. of those who profess themselves of the Ch. of England.
About two hundred.
6. No. of Dissenters of all sorts, particularly papists.
About eight Thousand, & much to be feared one half of them Infidels. Some few papists, who I be- lieve harbour many others in Disguize.
7. No. of Heathens & Infidels.
About six Thousand, and a round number of them Atheists, as far as wretched man can be such.
8. No. of Converts from a prophane, disorderly and unchristian Course of Life, to a Life of Christian purity, meekness and Charity. Two.
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PICTURES OF RHODE ISLAND.
I 720. Rev. Daniel Neal.
Neal (1678-1743) is best known as the historian of the Puritans. The History of New England-his first work-was published in London, in 1720, and had a warmly favorable reception in America. Harvard con- ferred the honorary degree of M. A. upon the author. It would seem to be a conscientious and painstaking work. The extract given is taken from the second edition, London, 1747, II. 233.
Providence and Warwick, two large Towns in the Narrhaganset County upon the Continent, are under this Government [Rhode Island] and have the least Appearance of Order of any Towns in New-England. The Inhabitants of these Places are likewise the Descendants of those Sectaries who were banished the Massachusetts Jurisdiction between the year 1630 and 1640, . . . , but they now live in great Amity with their Neighbours, and though every Man does what he thinks right in his own Eyes, it is rare that any notor- ious Crimes are committed by them, which may be attributed in some Measure to their great Veneration for the Holy Scriptures, which they read from the least to the greatest, though they have neither Ministers nor Magistrates to recommend it to them. They have an Aversion to all Sorts of Taxes, as the Inventions of Men to support Hirelings, as they call all such Magis- trates and Ministers as won't serve them for nothing. They are very hospitable to Strangers ; a Traveller passing through these Towns may call at any House with the same Liberty as if he were in an Inn, and be kindly entertained with the best they have for nothing.
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REV. DR. JAMES MACSPARRAN.
The raising of Cattle, and making Butter and Cheese is their chief Employ, by which they have very much enriched themselves. The Society for propagating the Gospel after the Manner of the Church of England have lately planted a Missionary in these Parts (viz.) the Reverend Mr. Guy, to whom they allow 70 l. per Annum.
the Inhabitants [of Newport] begin now to be more civilized, since there have been two Churches in the Island, one according to the New-English Model, the other according to the Church of England; of which latter the Rev. Mr. Honeyman is the present Incum- bent, to whom the Society for propagating the Gospel in foreign Parts allow 55 l. per Annum.
1752. Rev. Dr. James MacSparran.
Dr. MacSparran (d. 1757) was an out-spoken, but extremely diverting missionary of the Church of Eng- land, who officiated as clergyman at St. Paul's Church, Narragansett, from 1721 until his death.
At one time his parish contained Bristol, Freetown, . Swansey, and Little Compton. He was much inter- ested in the establishment of St. John's (then King's) Church, in Providence. His zeal for his mission work, his laudable endeavors to improve his own worldly con- dition, and his keen appreciation of his own merits and his neighbors' deficiencies, form a most attractive com- bination. This quotation is from his America Dissected (written in 1752, published in 1753), pp. 27 et seq., reprinted in Updike's Narragansett Church. His letter- book, 1743-1751, has just been printed.
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PICTURES OF RHODE ISLAND.
The next Region that rises to View is the little Col- ony of Rhode-Island, &c. where Providence has fixed me, and where I have resided in Quality of Missionary thirty-one Years last April. . This little District
. contains about 1,024,000 Acres, and is peopled with about 30,000 Inhabitants, young and old, white and black. . . In Connecticut I observed to you that Independency was the Religion of the State ; but in Rhode-Island no Religion is established. There a Man may, with Impunity, be of any Society, or of none at all ; but the Quakers are, for the most part, the Peo- ple in Power. . . no sooner did their Preachers ap- pear in Rhode-Island, but they found many of the Pos- terity of the first Planters too well prepared for the Reception of pestilent Heresy. The twenty-four Years that had run out from their first Removal from England, and the seventeen that had elapsed from their second Settlement at Rhode-Island, had carried off the Stage of Life most of those who received the first Rudiments of Religion in the Mother Country. Their Descendants and Successors, without Schools, without a regular Clergy, became necessarily rude and illiterate; and, as Quakerism prevailed, Learning was decried, Ignorance and Heresy so increased, that neither Epiphanius's, nor Sir Richard Blackmore's Catalogues, contain more het- erodox and different Opinions in Religion than were to be found in this little Corner. . . In 1700, after Quakerism and other Heresies had, in their Turns, ruled over and tinged all the Inhabitants for the Space of forty-six Years, the Church of England, that had been lost here through the Neglect of the Crown, en- tered as it were, unobserved and unseen, and yet not without some Success. A little Church was built in Newport, the Metropolis of the Colony, in 1702, and that in which I officiate in Narragansett, in 1707.
There have been two Incumbents before me; but
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REV. DR. JAMES MACSPARRAN.
neither of them had resolution enough to grapple with the Difficulties of this Mission, above a Year a-piece. I entered upon this Mission in 1721; and found the people, not a Tabula rasa, or clean Sheet of Paper, upon which I might make any Impressions I pleased ; but a Field full of Briars and Thorns, and noxious weeds, that were all to be eradicated, before I could implant in them the Simplicity of Truth. However, by God's Blessing, I have brought over to the Church some Hundreds, and, among the Hundreds I have baptized, there are at least 150 who received the Sac- rament at my Hands, from twenty years old, to seventy or eighty. Exc Pede Herculem. By this, you may guess in how uncultivated a Country my Lot fell. By my Excursions, and Out-Labours, a Church is built 25 Miles to the Westward of me, but not now under my Care ; another 16 Miles to the Northward of me, where I officiate once a Month ; and, at a Place six Miles farther off, on the Saturday before that monthly Sunday. I gathered a Congregation at a Place called New-Bristol, where now officiates a Missionary from the Society ; and I was the first Episcopal Minister that ever preached at Providence, where, for a long Time, I used to go four times a Year ; but that Church has now a fixed Missionary of its own. I took Notice before of my Labours at New-London in Connecticut, and would to God I could boast of more Success! but Toil and Travel has put me beyond my Best; and, if I am not rewarded with a little Rest in Europe, where my Desires are, I have strong Hopes of infinitely more desirable Rest from my Labours, in those celestial Mansions prepared by my dear Redeemer. Besides the Members of our Church, who, I may boast, are the best of the People, being Converts, not from Con- venience or civil Encouragement, but Conscience and Conviction ; there are Quakers, Anabaptists of four
4
1
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PICTURES OF RHODE ISLAND.
sorts, Independents, with a still larger Number than all those, of the Descendants of European Parents, devoid of all Religion, and who attend no Kind of Public Worship. In all the other Colonies, the Law lays an Obligation to go to some Sort of Worship on Sunday ; but here, Liberty of Conscience is carried to an irreligious Extreme. The Produce of this Colony is principally Butter and Cheese, fat Cattle, Wool, and fine Horses, that are exported to all Parts of the English America. They are remarkable for Fleetness and swift Pacing ; and I have seen some of them pace a Mile in little more than two Minutes, a good deal less than three.
There are above 300 Vessels, such as Sloops, Scooners, Snows, Brigantines, and Ships, from 60 Tons and up- wards, that belong to this Colony; but, as they are rather Carriers for other Colonies, than furnished here with their Cargoes, you will go near to conclude that we are lazy and greedy of Gain, since, instead of culti- vating the Lands, we improve too many Hands in Trade. This indeed is the Case. There are here, which is no good Symptom, a vast many Law-Suits ; more in one Year than the County of Derry has in twenty ; and Billy M' Evers has been so long your Father's, and your Honour's Constable, that he would make a very good Figure on the Bench of our Courts of Assize and General Goal Delivery. The Novanglians in general, the Rhode-Islanders in particular, are per- haps the only People on Earth who have hit on the Art of enriching themselves by running in Debt. This will remain no longer a Mystery, than I have related to your Honour, that we have no Money among us, but a depreciating Paper Currency ; and this, in the Current of 30 Years, has dwindled down from 6s. 8d. to about 41. per Ounce. He who disposes of his Goods on long Credit, and another who lends his Money at
53
REV. DR. JAMES MACSPARRAN.
101. 123, or even 151. per Cent. the first loses his Profits, and the last some of his Principal, besides all the Interest. Indeed, a new Act of the British Parlia- ment, ill-penned, passed last Winter, to restrain us : But such Things are only Bruta Fulmina ; and we shall go on, I doubt, in our old Way of Paper Emissions, unless the Lord, in Mercy to us, should dispose the sovereign Power to vacate our Patent, and prevent our Destruction by taking us out of our own Hands. I mentioned Wool as one of the Productions of this Colony ; but, altho' it is pretty plenty where I live, yet if you throw the English America into one Point of View, there is not half enough to make Stockings for the Inhabitants. We are a vast Advantage to England, in the Consumption of her Manufactures; for which we make Returns, in New Ships, Whale Oil, and Bone, (which grows in the Whale's Mouth) and dry Fish, to the Ports of Portugal, Spain, and Italy, which are paid for by Draughts on London and Bristol Merchants. I wish Ireland were at Liberty to ship us their Woollens, which we shall always want, instead of her Linens, which will soon cease to be in demand here. Before I leave this Colony, give me Leave to observe to your Honour, that the Lord Marquis of Hamilton, Prede- cessor to the late Dukes of that Title, bought of the aforesaid Council of Plymouth 60 Miles square of Land, which comprehends most of this Colony, and Part of Connecticut, with 10,000 Acres at Sagadahock; and only Length of Time, Neglect, and some Misfortunes that befel that Family, have deprived them of the Benefit of that great Estate. The last Duke put a Copy of his Patent into my Hands, when I was in England, in 1737; and from that, and what he told me, it appeared to my Understanding, that his Title was good, and might, were the Times favourable to that Family, be recovered again. At an easy Quit-
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PICTURES OF RHODE ISLAND.
Rent of 5s. Sterling per 100 Acres, it would amount to more than 57601. per Annum, and might be im- proved to a much greater Sum. .
I've said nothing of the climate. You are to know then, that, . . . In general, the Air is infinitely more clear and serene than in England or Ireland ; and our Nearness to the Sun occasions more frequent and loud Claps of Thunder, and sharper Lightning, than you have. It is no unusual Thing for Houses, and Stacks of Hay, and Grain, to be burnt ; and Men and Cattle are often killed by the sharp Lightning. In New- England, the Transitions from Heat to Cold are short and sudden, and the Extreme of both very sensible : We are sometimes frying, and at others freezing ; and as Men often die at their Labour in the Field by Heat, so some in Winter are froze to Death with the Cold. Last Winter, in February, which begins the Spring with you, I rode 30 Miles upon one continued Glaze of Ice upon the Land, to assist a neighbouring Clergy- man, who was sick. With a Horse well caulk'd and frosted, 'tis fine Travelling for one that can sometimes 'light and run, to bring the Blood into his Feet, and in- crease the checked Circulation. As from my Lands I can see the Atlantic Ocean, I have seen it froze as far as the human Eye could reach ; and 'tis common, in a beautiful Lake of salt Water that fronts my Farm, to have the Ice three Feet thick every Winter. .
As the Shadow lengthens as the Sun grows low, so, as the Years increase, my Longings after Europe in- crease also. My Labours and Toils are inexpressible, and Age makes them still more intolerable.
Vagrant, illiterate Preachers swarm where I am ; and the native Novanglian Clergy of our Church, against the Opinion of the European Missionaries, have introduced a Custom of young Scholars going about and reading Prayers, &c. where there are Vacancies, on
55
REV. JACOB BAILEY.
purpose that they may step into them when they can get Orders ; yea, they have so represented the Necessity and Advantage of the Thing, that the very Society connive at, if not encourage it. This occasioned my preaching, and afterwards printing, the inclosed Dis- course, on which I shall be glad to have your Senti- ments.
I 754. Rev. Jacob Bailey.
Jacob Bailey (1731-1808) was a clergyman of the Church of England, who was born in Massachusetts, and graduated at Harvard. He visited England, and was ordained in that country, and later became a mis- sionary in Pownalborough, now Wiscasset, Maine. During the Revolutionary war he was a loyalist, and, in 1779, left the United States for Nova Scotia, where he became rector of St. Luke's Church in Annapolis. The following extract is taken from his journal, published in The Frontier Missionary, A Memoir of the life of the Rev. Jacob Bailey, by W. S. Bartlett, New York, 1853, pp. 16 et seq.
Providence is a most beautiful place, lying on both sides of a fine river, in the north-westerly part of Rhode Island government. The north-east side is built with two streets of painted houses, above which lies a most delightful hill, gradually ascending to a great distance, all cut into gardens, orchards, pleasant fields, and beautiful enclosures, which strike the eye with agree- able surprise. Here is a fine harbor for shipping, and
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PICTURES OF RHODE ISLAND.
a well-built bridge across the river. The town on the south-west side, is less elegant than on the north- east, but contains two or three streets of well-built houses. Providence is a very growing and flourishing place, and the finest in New England. Here is one meeting-house, one church, one Quaker and one New- Light house for divine worship. The inhabitants of the place, in general, are very immoral, licentious and profane, and exceeding famous for contempt of the Sabbath. Gaming, gunning, horse-racing and the like, are as common on that day as on any other. Persons of all professions countenance such practices. From Providence we rode over a fine plain to Patuxet.
Patuxet
Is a pretty compact place, built upon a small river, over which is a very good bridge. From Patuxet we rode through a long desert country, in which we saw but a very few people, and they almost as rough as the trees.
Warwick.
A poor, but old-settled town, something populous, on the borders of Greenwich ; the inhabitants very profane and unpolite.
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