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BANCROFT LIBRARY
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SAN ANTONIO DE BEXAR
A GUIDE AND HISTORY
COMPILED AND EDITED BY WILLIAM CORNER
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ILLUSTRATED
REESE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY
OF CALIFOR 114
SAN ANTONIO, TEXAS BAINBRIDGE & CORNER CHRISTMAS, 1890
F 394 . Sz C8
REESE Sammel
COPYRIGHT, 1890, BY BAINBRIDGE & CORNER.
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
Bancroft Libre 670C
PREFACE.
It yet remains for me to express thanks to my helpers. To such Texans as Mrs. M. A. Maverick, Mrs. Canterbury, Dr. Cupples, General H. P. Bee, Dr. Herff, Colonel Ford, Colonel Withers, Mr. John Dobbin and to others I owe much more than perhaps they are aware of, for it was my talks with "old-timers " that put me in touch and sympathy with theirs and earlier times. Not all, of course, that I have learned about San Antonio has been herein written down, but every smallest detail was counted by me as a help towards the better understanding of my subject. I was continually impressed by the excellence and accuracy of Sidney Lanier's Historical Sketch, and designed very early that it should form a part of this work. To Bishop Neraz I owe thanks for a glimpse of the older Church Records. As to the County Records, the kind directions of Messrs. Thad. Smith and Theo. Rozeine, liave been of much service to me. To all these mentioned, and to many others who have unconsciously helped me at the cost of being bored, I return my thanks ; nor do I forget that an acknowledge- ment is here due to my brother, Charles Corner, for work and encourage- ment. I trust my book will not only be a satisfaction to the inquiring visitor, but I should like to think that it could furnish a few notes and suggestions to a future historian of Texas.
Further than these remarks, I have no use for the prefatory privilege, so for the rest, " for better or for worse," my book, with its illustrations, shall speak for itself.
December, 1890. W. C.
208112
Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2007 with funding from Microsoft Corporation
http://www.archive.org/details/sanantoniodebexa00cornrich
CONTENTS.
PAGE
INTRODUCTORY
1
Railroads . .
3
Mallory Line of Steamers 4
Transfer .
4
Hacks and Carriages
4
Hotels .
Boarding and Lodging Houses, Flats
5
Restaurants
5
Street Car Lines and Street Railways . 6
What There Is to See . 7
The Alamo Church as it is in 1890
8
Some Further Notes on the Alamo
8
The Cathedral of San Fernando .
12
THE MISSIONS-
How to Get to the Missions . 13
Mission Concepcion 14
Mission San José . 17
Mission San Juan .
20
Mission San Francisco de la Espada .
21
The Plazas
24
THE MILITARY ESTABLISHMENT-
Headquarters Department of Texas and Fort Sam Houston 25
26
Some Further Notes on Military Affairs
27
Churches
31
Educational
32
International Fair Grounds .
33
Riverside Park, San Pedro Park
34
Opera Houses
34
Public Halls .
34
Newspapers
34
Stock Yards .
35
City Additions
35
Artesian Wells
35
Real Estate, Land Grants and Field Notes of Town Tract . 36 to
39
Public Buildings
39
Banks
40
San Antonio Club
40
Other Clubs . 40
Young Men's Christian Association
40
Military or Militia Organizations . 40
Friendly Societies . 41
THE WATERS OF SAN ANTONIO AND SAN PEDRO-
The Ditches or Acequias 41
The Pajalache or Concepcion Ditch 43
The San Pedro Ditch . 44
The Alamo Madre Ditch, . 44
The Upper Labor Ditcli and the History of Its Construction 46
The San Antonio River . 50
The Water Works .
54
Military Drills .
4
vi
SAN ANTONIO DE BEXAR.
San Antonio as a IIcalth Resort . 58
Some Resources of Western Texas . 61 List of Charters and Amendments . 65
List of Mayors of the City of San Antonio 66
SAN ANTONIO DE BEXAR, BY SIDNEY LANIER-
Anthony Crozat, 1712. Huchereau St. Denis, 1714. New Philippines. Spain's Earliest Claims. La Salle, 1685. San Antonio de Valero, 1715. Franciscans of Querétaro. San Antonio de Valero, 1722. Spain's Mission. French Claims. Correspondence of D'Alarconne and De la Harpe. The San Antonio Missions. "Lastekas"-Texas. Indians. Testimonio de un Parecer. Apaches, 1732. Sandoval and Franquis- great lawsuit. "San Antonio de Vejar." Foundation of the Church of the Alamo, 1744. French and Spanish Policies, 1762. San Saba Mission, 1758. Seculariza- tion of the Alamo Mission, 1783. Partition of Alamo Mission Lands, 1793. Closing the Alamo Records, 1793. Americans, 1800. Philip Nolan. Lieutenant Pike, 1807. San Antonio Society Prior to 1810. Troublous Times. Colonel Delgado. Revolutions. Magee and, Gutierrez. Colonel Kemper. Colonel James Gaines. Governor Salcedo. Battle. Surrender of San Antonio by the Royalists. Massacre of Royalists. Don Elisondo. Another Battle. Royalist Loss. Captain Perry. Don José Alvares Toledo. General Arredondo. Another Battle. Royalists Victorious under Arredondo, 1813. A " Black Hole" of San Antonio. San Antonio Almost Abandoned, 1816. Moses Austin, 1820. American Colonists. Treaty of Cordova, 1821. Secession from Spain. French Merchants in San Antonio, 1824. The Bowie Brothers, 1831. Shawnees and Comanches. 1832. Sam Houston, 1833. Texas and Coahuila. Stephen F. Austin and Mexico, 1833. Revolutionary Meeting, 1834. Ugartechea and Cos. Santa Auna. Deaf Smith. Dr. James Grant. Burleson. Maverick. San Antonio Besieged by Texans, 1835. Milan and Johnson. San Antonio Taken. Karnes. Surrender of the Alamo by Cos. Travis. Crockett. Arrival of Santa Anna, 1836. Siege of the Alamo. Bonham and Fannin. Account of Rose. Fall of the Alamo. Mrs. Dickinson and the "Child of the Alamo." Indians, 1840. Captain Howard. War between Texas and Mexico. Raids of Vasquez and Woll, 1842. Annexation, 1845. Cosmopolitan San Antonio. Meteorological. Geo- graphical. San Fernando. Religious. Points of Interest. Conclusion. . . 68 to 91
INTERVIEWS AND MEMOIRS OF OLD TIME TEXANS.
Extracts from the Memoirs of Mrs. M. A. Maverick 95 to 106
Interview with Mrs. Canterbury 107
A Talk with Right Reverend Bishop Neraz 109
Interviews with Dr. Cupples . 112 An Interview with Dr. Ferdinand Herff, Sr. 115
An Interview with Mr. John Dobbin . 116
Señora Candelaria 117
Colonel Ford's Memoirs 119
The Alamo Monument at Austin . 124 The County Records . 125 The Founding of the Town of San Fernando 126 Historical, interesting and statistical dates of, and relating to, the City of San Antonio, 129 to 166
ILLUSTRATIONS AND PLANS.
PAGE
Church of the Mission del Alamo . Frontispiece
Mission de la Concepcion (First Mission) . 8
Mission San José de Aguayo (Second Mission) 12
Group of Views of Missions and Mission Buildings 16
Plans illustrating the Alamo. Concepcion, San José, San Juan and Espada Missions, San José Granary and the Villa Capital de San Fernando, with References 16
Group of Views of Portals and a Window of San José . 20
Group of Detail of Mission Carving 24
Group of Views of Military Post . 28
Federal Building .
32
The San Antonio National Bank
40
Group of Scenes of Mexican Life in San Antonio
44
Group of River Scenes and old Mission Aqueduct .
56
Facsimiles of Signatures of Historical Personages
Western Texas Cowboy Sketches
104
San Antonio City Hall .
128
Numerous small cuts included in the letter press .
Map of the central portion of the City of San Antonio .
64
Spanish and Mexican-Texas Seals . SO
ERRATA.
1. Mrs. Hockett has changed from St. Mary's Street to the Apartment House, corner of Houston and Jefferson Streets. Page 5.
2. For "turning south at Laurel Street," read "turning west, etc." Bottom of Page 6.
3. Since the first sheets of this work were printed the electric rapid transit Street Car Lines have been extended in several of the suburbs of the city. Page 6.
4. For "Espado" read Espada, on illustration. Page 20.
5. The Magnetic Needle omitted from Alamo Mission Plan. Note-the Alamo Church fronts almost due west. Page 24.
6. The Government Post has been recently officially named Fort Sam Houston. Page 25.
7. Turner Hall has been converted into Rische's Opera House. Page 34.
S. For "weeky " read weekly. Eleventh line, page 35.
9. For W. A. Little, Esq., read C. C. Cresson, Esq., last line ' San Antonio Club." Page 40.
10. The Waterworks proposition was rejected by a large majority on September 30th, 1890. Page 57.
11. For "Prom" read From1. 4th line, page 75.
12. For "St. Patrick's Day :" read without the colon. 16th line, page 117.
13 For "amatuer" read amateur. 17th line, page 117.
14. American Biographical Dictionaries differ as to the year of General R. E. Lee's birth, but the best authorities give January 19th, 1807 ; not 1806. Page 131.
REESE LIBRARY OF THI UNIVERSITY
-
F. GUTEKUNST, PRINT.
"CHURCH OF THE MISSION DEL ALAMO."
.
REESE LIBRARY AF THK UNIVERSITY
OF CALIFORNIA
San Antonio de Bexar.
Introductory .- " By far the most pleasant as well as interesting town in Texas is San Antonio." So writes George Wilkins Kendall in 1843, in his "Narrative of the Texan Santa Fé Expedition " of the good city of old Bexar, that stood for a generation or two, bravely up in the seething of the " meeting of the waters,"-the meeting of two great opposing races and civilizations. Over the rolling western prairies had crept, moving eastwardly, the fringe of the tide of the Spanish,-the Latin-Indian civilization from Mexico, meeting after awhile here a mightier and colder current pushing westward-the American, the ever restless Anglo-Saxon flood. The stronger influence overcame. To-day, San Antonio is a flourishing, enterprising, American city, as Texas is the greatest of American States and one destined to a magnificent future. It boasts an historical past. San Antonio was a bone of contention, Texas was the meat and fat for the victors, and all good San Antonians believe, with some show of reason, that the nearer the bone the sweeter the meat, which is just about what Kendall means, only expressed rather differently, for he adds later to this praise of San Antonio the following : "I have an abiding faith in Western Texas, and will stick by it till the Guadalupe runs dry." Such love had old Texans it seems for the land they had fought for and won.
Both floods still remain, but now commingle harmoniously, having long since ceased to maintain an unequal contention. Strange traces, however, of the strug- gle are everywhere present in the old city, in spite of its new face and smile of prosperity. Its quaint traditions, customs and reminiscences are quickly recog- nized by a stranger's enquiring eye. Alas ! while these, the old houses, here and there, and the Missions, more or less the worse for age, reinain to us, the strong, grand old pioneer faces of men who had in their turn taken up their "pistols " their "sharp-edged axes," and the
"Task eternal, and the burden and the lesson,"
are getting to be few and far between, but their work, their sons and their sons' sons remain. San Antonians, pure and simple, and Texans mostly, walk with a step that bespeaks tradition and a certain pride of country, of a jeal- ous remembrance of that part their fathers took in the winning of the brightest star of all in a galaxy, and a demeanour which tells strangers plainly enough if they be too prompt with unwelcome criticism of some of their seemingly odd old ways, fashions and methods,-" Sirs, we have a history, find it out, it will repay you and perhaps you may discover why we do some things that you would not do and leave undone some things that you would do." And, indeed it will repay the student right nobly. It is a stirring, thrilling history almost inexhaustible in interest.
1
2
SAN ANTONIO DE BEXAR.
It is however the modern town which has to be dealt with just now. Its history, chronicles and some deeds of its doughty men will be found as fully set out in other pages as space will allow. But, as this guide is compiled as much for the benefit of strangers and enquirers as for home folks, it is as well that a few of the leading facts of the city's origin and being be emphasized in this introductory.
San Antonio is now probably the most cosmopolitan spot on the face of the globe. Representatives of every race of the earth have been counted here, except perhaps the aboriginal Oceanicans. The larger elements of the existing popu- lation are American, Mexican, German, Colored, with smaller groups of French, Italian, Polanders, Irish and many other nationalities.
San Antonio partakes more of the appearance of an old world town than any in the Union-Boston not excepted. Although the modern business blocks and fine residences, with all their adjuncts in the way of the conveniences of civiliza- tion so largely predominate, yet the ancient looking house here and there, the crooked streets and alleys, the plazas, the relics of an older and altogether differ- ent dynasty-lend the city a venerable air that is particularly pleasing to the visitor's eye so used to straight, wide streets and compact blocks laid out in the mathematical precision of a chess board.
The peculiarities of the city will be better understood if the facts hinted at above are remembered. To comprehend things rightly the city's history and origin must be constantly borne in mind. Let the rule, for instance, be applied in reference to the venerable Missions, at once the pride, glory and regret of San Antonio.
Let a traveller from the East or North be set down before the gateway of San José. In his journeyings he has seen nothing like this before. The Mission must be to him an enigma. He hears that it is a century and a half since its foundations were laid by Catholic missionaries, aided by their converts, half or more than half savage Indians, all under constant peril of their lives from the outside from the cruelest of hostile tribes, that were uncompromising in their enmity. If he is practical, the traveller will wonder whence the stone came where no quarries were-from where the lime, with 110 kilns-who was the architect, the superintendent of works, the artist stone cutter-the engineer, for he may be told that this old Mission was once fortified. An intelligent man is bound to ask these things, and if he merely remembers that the Mission is on the outside edge of his own territory and civilization he will fail to understand and realize how it was all done; he is even in the dark as to the spirit and design of its founders, much less comprehending the hard, practical fact of the presence of these great masses of masonry and beautiful sculpture in a lone, wide, wild prairie, as he knows the spot must have been in the days of the erection of these Missions.
But, suppose that the traveller had come from, say, the City of Mexico-had a smattering, at least, of Spanish and Mexican History, knew and understood that the aggrandizement of Spain's Empire was the object alike of Church and State-the King and the Church going hand in hand, the one establishing the other; the King granting, conceding, and sending his soldiers to protect, the Church sending its well-trained servants to work, to proselytize, to acquire, to
3
RAILROADS.
bless. Coming through Mexico, the progression from one great religious founda- tion to another would seem natural, as he travelled northward and eastward, and, keeping in view Spain's necessity to firmly establish her borders, the Texas Missions would appear at last perfectly in place and keeping with a definite de- sign and scheme. The puzzle would be absent, but the admiration for indefatiga- ble workers would be none the less. The Missions would be the ornament on the fringe of the Spanish and not the Anglo-Saxon skirt. To the brothers- Franciscans-who had the acquirements, resources, devotion and energy to plan, design and build the magnificent churches of the City of Mexico, the religious houses, chapels, bridges and aqueducts scattered over the land, the foundation and construction of the San Antonio Missions, wonderful as the work was, does not seem to be a very difficult task. Perhaps some of the same workers who built the great stone aqueduct at Querétaro about the year 1730 came up to San Antonio with the Querétaro Franciscan brothers and helped in the completion of the beautiful San José.
It is thus, then, that he must be in touch with its history who would come to correct conclusions about the grand old City of Bexar. This is only a single instance of a brighter side-but to other and sterner chapters the rule applies with a like reason.
Not to delay further a practical description of San Antonio as it is-what there is to see and how to see it-the visitor is strongly recommended, before setting out on the rounds, to read Sidney Lanier's historical sketch. It will be found to be reliable, and is the best short history of the city that has been written. It is from the pen of one of America's most charming writers, and no praise of it is needed here. The name of the author is sufficient to ensure its being read with interest and attention.
Railroads. - Three main lines of railroad with a multitude of tributaries run into and through San Antonio. The visitor may arrive at either of three different depots.
The SOUTHERN PACIFIC or Sunset, as it is familiarly called, has its depot in the northeastern suburbs. The main line stretches from New Orleans to be- yond San Francisco. Many of the New York and Eastern mails come in over this route, it having quick competing communications for eastern traffic and travel. Its principal business done with San Antonio is from California on the west- · from New Orleans, Galveston and Houston, etc., on the east. It was the first railroad to reach this city, arriving here early in February, 1877. An electric street car line-Belknap system-car labelled Avenue C. Line, etc., color green, nickel fare, does service for this depot to the Alamo Plaza citywards and to the Government Hill northwards. Another electric car line also does service here to Avenue E. and Alamo Plaza citywards and to the Alamo Heights, at the head of the river, northward-fare, nickel; color, yellow; light, purple. The South- ern Pacific ticket office is in the Adams & Wickes building, on Alamo Plaza.
THE INTERNATIONAL AND GREAT NORTHERN depot is in the western sub- urbs of the city. This line gives us communication with all parts directly north and east, via Dallas, Fort Worth, Austin, etc., passing through our city, on via Laredo, to the City of Mexico, to which city it is at present one of the shortest
4
SAN ANTONIO DE BEXAR.
routes. It also brings many eastern mails. It made its first appearance from the north in this city February 16th, 1881. It has an electric city street car service- Belknap system-color, orange; labelled City Hall, Plazas and all Hotels. The International and Great Northern ticket office is on the corner of N. Alamo street and Alamo Plaza.
THE SAN ANTONIO AND ARANSAS PASS RAILROAD familiarly "S. A. P." "Our Railroad," the spoilt child of San Antonio, is an enterprise of which the city may well be proud. Under the far-sighted policy of its able president, U. Lott, who has a strongly developed prophetic instinct in him, this road is destined to become an important system. At present, with upwards of 800 miles in operation, it does good service, firstly with Boerne and Kerrville on the north, whence it is pushing a northwestern extension ; secondly with Corpus Christi and Rockport, and eventually deep water at Aransas, and the short est route to the City of Mexico on the south ; thirdly with all that fertile grazing and farming country lying between Kenedy and Houston, doing here an immense cotton and cattle freighting business ; fourthly with Houston and Galveston east ; fifthly with another rich mid-Texas district by an important branch to Waco. Other branches are under construction and in contemplation. Mr. Lott's able lieutenant is General Manager B. F. Yoakum. The first ground was broken for this railroad in this city May 18th, 1885. It is identified with the interests of San Antonio. The depot is in the southern suburbs. It is served by two car lines, the red car coming to Alanio Plaza the yellow car serving through South Flores street to the Military Plaza and North Flores street. The ticket office is in the Kampmann building, on Main street.
Mallory Line of Steamers .- The pleasantest though not the shortest route to New York, is by rail to Galveston, thence by one of the Mallory steamers. This is a most delightful trip especially in the summer time.
Transfer .- Busses and transfer wagons meet every train incoming or out- ward bound. The company is moderate in its charges for baggage or passengers, and their servants are as a rule punctual and obliging.
Hacks and Carriages .- One of the peculiarities of San Antonio is an immense hack traffic. It is a favorite mode of locomotion. The charges are not high on account of the considerable competition. It is however always advisable to have a perfect understanding with your Jehu beforehand as to his ultimate charges, or in nine cases out of ten upon settlement you will harbor suspicions of being over-reached. Many of the hacks are costly vehicles, and nearly all have good stepping, strong horses. On the whole it does well to fall into the custom of the place as to hacks. There are always plenty of them at train times at the depots and the stands are conveniently placed on the Plazas and Houston street.
Hotels. - The Menger is the oldest and best hotel in the city. It is con- spicuous on the eastern corner of Alamo Plaza, not far from the Alamo Church building. The Menger was established in 1858, being opened January 31st, 1859. It has been constantly added to until now its extensive buildings cover the greater part of the block. It is in the hands of its proprietor, Mr. H. D. Kamp- mann, and well managed by Mr. Browder. Its service and appointments are first-class in every particular. The facade is prettily shaded by trees, and the
5
PUBLIC COMFORT.
court yard contains one of the prettiest groups of banana trees in Texas. In the season musical evenings are an attraction to its guests, and fashionable germans are periodically held. It is impossible to state the various hotel charges. It is perhaps sufficient to say that the charges of none are exorbitant. It is well situated as to street car service, many of the various city lines starting and terminating on the Alamo Plaza, viz: the scarlet line car plying between this plaza down Houston street to San Pedro Avenue and Springs-scarlet light. The City Hall line on Main and Military Plazas. I. & G. N. depot and all hotels-color, orange; light, orange. The Avenue C line to Southern Pacific depot and Government Post-color, green: light, green. The S. Alamo, Mill street and S. A. & A. P. R. R. depot-color, red; light red. Green cars do service from the end of E. Commerce. A hack stand fronts the hotel.
Another good hotel is the Maverick, on Houston street. The building was originally erected for Military Headquarters, and was used for this purpose from January 25, '78 till 1882, being enlarged and opened as a hotel in April of that year. As a hotel it is second in importance only to the Menger. It is very well served by the proximity of all the important street car services of the city, many of the lines passing its doors.
Still other good hotels are the Southern, the St. Leonard, the Central, all on the Main Plaza, and the Mahncke, on Houston street.
Boarding and Lodging Houses, Flats. - San Antonio is not quite so well off for good boarding houses as it might be. Probably the reason may be found in the fact that it enjoys a number of other facilities for easy and cheap living. Nevertheless, a number of really good boarding houses can be reckoned. Mrs. Cole's house, on Pecan street. enjoys a first class reputation for the excellent table that is kept and the attention paid to the general com- fort. Mrs. Murphy's, on St. Mary's street, is noted for similar good qualities, also Mrs. Sappington's, on Tobin Hill. Mrs. Hockett's, on St. Mary's street, has a well-established reputation. Of course there are many other fairly good houses, but changes so constantly come that the list mentioned must suffice. A custom that very well suits the visitor making an extended stay is that which many of the inhabitants have of letting for rent by the month, certain rooms, very often the best in their houses. Such visitors can make themselves very com. fortable, and live more economically, by rooming in this fashion and boarding where best suits their appetites and convenience. Of course, all sorts of bargains can be made. It only requires a little searching for every class to be made perfectly comfortable. In fine, San Antonio, if not provided specifically with a large number of good boarding houses, is nevertheless a city in which living is made easy, not to say delightful. Mention must here be made of two excellent institutions, the Webb house, on Houston street-half boarding house, half hotel -spoken of highly as a place of comfort, and the Alamo Flats, on Alamo Plaza, a most convenient arrangement of rooms and suites of rooms, nicely furnished and excellently well conducted under its present management.
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