USA > Texas > Bexar County > San Antonio > San Antonio de Bexar; a guide and history > Part 4
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Bishop Neraz thinks the figures on the front of San José to be, The Virgin, San José, San Benedict, San Augustine and San Francisco. Other authorities have given a slight variation of this list. The front was frescoed in red, blue and yellow in pretty designs, but this is now very difficult to discern.
* Census of 1805 showed forty-one souls in Mission Concepcion.
+ This extract from " Pike's Expedition " is taken from Yoakum's History, Vol. I., p. 61. With regard to this-Where are the nations of the Indian ("with half his face vermilion") mentioned in the Records of Marriages of Mission Concepcion ? (See Interview with Bishop Neraz) " Even with the good Knight Charlemain!"
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SAN ANTONIO DE BEXAR.
Mission of San Juan.
The Third Mission, or Mission San Juan de Capistrano was named after Santa Giovanni di Capistrano, a friar of the Franciscan order who was born in the year 1386 in the little town of Capistrano in the Abruzzi in Italy, or rather in what was formerly the kingdom of the two Sicilies. The Mission was begun in 1731 on March 5th. It is situated on the left or east bank of the river about six miles from San Antonio, a very picturesque locality by the San Juan ford and bridge. The settlement there is called Berg's Mill after a Scouring Mill erected some years ago. The S. A. & A. P. R. R. Depot goes by that name also. About a half mile from this settlement on the right or west bank of the River is the old aqueduct already alluded to in the introductory to the Missions-this aqueduct takes water over the Piedra creek for the use of the Fourth Mission lands. Mission San Juan is less remarkable and distinguished than the other two just described but has its points of interest. Its square is well defined and the design of a complete Mission can be made out with less difficulty here and at the Fourth Mission than at the others. Its little granary, its chapel, its ruined convent or monastery which must have been a building of some importance in its day, and the foundations of a chapel which was never completed are all objects of interest. These main buildings unlike those of the First and Second Missions form parts of and are built into the boundary or rampart walls. A number of Mexican families live here, some of the members of which possess marked Indian features. In the neighborhood of San Juan there are more traces of the Indian in faces and characteristics than anywhere else in Texas. The best time to note this is on a Sunday afternoon when they usually congregate at one of the houses near the ford for their weekly cock fight which seems to be the excitement of the community, that is among the men.
The Chapel of San Juan is very plain and simple in construction. Just four walls-the tower being merely an elevation of a portion of the East wall with open arches in it for bells. There is still one bell left. The Chapel is roofless except for one small room at the south end which is walled off by an adobe wall and which is used as a Sacristy, vestry, and receptacle for the small remaining stock of figures, books, pictures and other such bric-à-brac. The inside of the walls of the Chapel, however, will afford to such as care for that sort of thing a few min- utes interesting study in rude frescoing. The frescoes are almost obliterated by exposure to the weather andthe wonder is that they have not long since been washed entirely off by heavy rains. They are a curious mixture of Old and New World ideas. Detail of Moorish design, a Roman arch, an Indian figure and pigments. "These frescoes," says Father Bouchu, "I think are of later date than the comple- tion of the Chapel and they were probably permitted, to satisfy the Indian na- ture's love of color." A painted rail about four feet high running around the Chapel first attracts the eye, then the elaborately painted Roman Arch in red and orange over the doorway. The design of this decoration is decidedly of a Moorish caste, zigzag strips and blocks of color with corkscrew and tile work, and pillars of red and orange blocks. These pillars are about twelve feet high and support another line or rail of color and upon this upper line are a series of fig- ures of musicians each playing a different instrument. The figures for some rea- son are much more indistinct than their instruments, the latter being accurately
UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA
WEST PORTAL OF CHAPEL, MISSION SAN JOSÉ.
KURTZ
SOUTH WINDOW OF BAPTISTRY, MISSION SAN JOSÉ.
EAST DOOR, BAPTISTRY, SAN JOSÉ.
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PART OF THE RAMPARTS, MISSION ESPADO.
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MISSION SAN FRANCISCO.
drawn and easy to distinguish. There is one of these figures over the frescoed arch of the door. It is a mandolin player. The player is indistinct, portions of his chair and instrument plainer, the latter can be made out to be of dark brown color with the finger board and keys, red. To the right of him is a violin player. the best preserved sample of all-the violin and bow are quite distinct, so are the features of the face of the figure, his hair is black, lips red, face and legs or- ange, feet black, the body of the violin orange, the rest of him and the bow red. To the right of him again is a guitar player, dressed in a bluish green color, sitting in a red chair, the instrument is quite distinct. Directly opposite this figure vis á vis is a viol player; the instrument being held by the player, finger board up, from the left shoulder across the body ; head, hands, instrument and bow being distinct, but the body of him is "played out." To the right of this ghostly looking viol player is a harp and a chair but the player is either invisible or van- ished. The lower rail, which is the much more elaborate of the two, supports here and there a flower pot and flowers in incongruous colors of bluish green and dull red-carnations and roses being prime favorites, with an occasional cross on a painted pedestal or dado.
If there is any record of the partition of the lands of this Mission it has not been discovered, at any rate with regard to the rooms in the ramparts it seems to have been customary at the Missions that a number of years occupation of rooms or barracks in any Mission gave some kind of title or claim to those rooms to the occupants. The Mission Government was generous to its converts and depend- ants. The Missions were projected for their benefit. This must explain such documents as that which may be found in the County Records dated January 28th, 1826, which relates that Maria de las Santos Lopez and Bartara de las Santos Lopez who were then occupying three rooms in the Mission San Juan conveyed the same to the Province of Texas for the sum of $34.00 January 28th, 1826. This sum was paid to them by Antonio Saucedo, then Chief Justice.
Mission San Francisco de la Espada.
The Fourth Mission or Mission San Francisco de la Espada, was "erected " as were Missions Concepcion and San Juan, in the year 1716, but it was not lo- cated and begun to be built until March 5th, 1731. It is situated on the right or west bank of the San Antonio River about nine miles from the city, and is dedicated to San Francisco de la Espada, that is, to St. Francis of Assissi, the founder of the great order of Franciscans, but the question arises, whence " de la Espada ? " St. Francis of the sword ? Tradition says that the old tower of the Chapel was built in the forni of the hilt of a sword, and that the imagination of the founders supplied length to the blade to complete the similarity to the whole - weapon. Perhaps it was that they were possessed with a portion of the spirit of that Greek parent whose son complained of the shortness of his sword; "Add a step to it, my son !" The allusion to the sword may have had some reference to the period of the awakening of St. Francis after his early illness, for it is related of him that he did not know at first whether he was called to be a valiant soldier and knight, or to be a faithful servant of the Church Militant.
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SAN ANTONIO DE BEXAR.
Parts of the ramparts or enclosing walls of this Mission are pretty well pre- served, others are in total ruins, but the foundations of the limits can be clearly inade out all around except at points facing the banks of the River. The Square is of irregular shape as will be seen by the plan furnished. In the southeast corner is an object of much interest. Projecting from the angle of the walls outwardly, is a small round tower of quite a feudal character. It is in a state of fine preservation and its three dressed stone round cannon holes near the base, and its seven musket holes about eight feet from the ground, lend it quite a menacing presence. The interior of it is in equally good repair, and one cannot refrain from conjuring up vivid scenes of fights with Indians in those early days of the Mission struggles with the red man-of women handing out the loaded muskets from the secure chambers to the right and left rear, of the unerring marksmen making it very hot for the attacking hostile, with an occasional lull in which is run out a small brass swivel gun* to the dimunitive embrasure, which makes the Apache or Comanche wish he were safe home in his fastness among the hills of Bandera. And it might have been that the recent remembrance of the total destruction of the San Saba Mission and the massacre of its inmates in 1758 lent some zest to these en- counters. For while these old Missionary pioneers were ever anxious to deal ten- derly with any hostile, yet unfortunately there were occasions when sternness was necessary,
" That they might feel The velvet scabbard held a sword of steel."
There was another of these " baluartes " or bastions on the south wall by the road, west of this one, but 110 trace of it is to be found. The chambers to the west of the existing "baluarte" have, looking out upon the square, alternate doors and arches, and one of the wide arched entrances still exists. The rooms to the north have been fitted up for a school house by Rev. Father Bouchu, who is wonder- fully active and persevering. He knows something of many subjects, which he has practically proved here at the Mission. "Padre Francisco " is Priest, law- yer, bricklayer, stone mason, photographer, historian, printer. His little pamph- lets in Spanish would be a credit to an office of much larger pretensions. He has lived in this community for many years and is well versed in information pertain- ing to the history of the Missions, and being himself one of those Priests who join with their vocation a knowledge of practical handicraft, he enters into the spirit of the founders with more than ordinary keenness. He is simple, unaffected, and garrulous, and meets the wants of the little settlement. He has built with his own hands upon the ruin of the old Convent and arcade a comfortable Priest house. Under his rule the Mission Chapel has been almost entirely renewed, the front only retaining a portion of its ancient work. The Chapel is in the form of a cross. The front is the belfry tower and is that portion that is supposed to represent the likeness to a sword-perhaps it bore more of that resemblance be- fore its restoration. Its three bells clang out three times a day, and would be startling on the still country air to one who was ignorant of the vicinity of the Mission. It is said that some of the Mission bells were cast in San Antonio in its earliest days, so there is no knowing what these old Missionaries did not come
* Mr. Albert Maverick has one of these little Spanish brass guns as an ornament or curiosity in his drawing room.
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MISSION SAN FRANCISCO.
prepared to do. There are several pretty little bits of wrought iron work in this and the other Missions. Here is another artistic accomplishment to be added to the list of those possessed by the fathers. The entrance door of the Chapel is un- mistakably Moorish, having the true Alhambra shape and lines. Sebastian Tejada, the Mission's oldest resident, maintains that there was still another place of worship on the inside of the South wall by the road, here was the old main South entrance and the Granary was built projecting lengthwise outside the walls by the same entrance. Only the bare foundation of these two buildings now exist. Opposite the old Convent is the well which was never forgotten in the building of a Mission. The Convent, its yard, (which form now the Padre's residence) and the Chapel or Church are built into and form portions of the western ramparts. A plan and three illustrations of this Mission are included in this book. Several Mexican families still reside in tumble-down huts on the lines of the Mission Square.
It was this Square that the Texan Army of Independence made their first camping ground-on the place that is now much overgrown with mesquite brush. Here Stephen F. Austin joined the troops as Commander in Chief upon his escape from Mexico, and where-" but that is another story,"-An interview with Sebastien Tejada will perhaps be of some interest.
An interview with Sebastien Tejada, an old and intelligent Mexican, who was born in one of the Mission Dwellings in 1813, Mission Francisco de la Es- pada or Fourth Mission. Interview held on May 20th, 1890. In reply to many questions he stated substantially as follows :
"I was born here in 1813. I have lived here all my life. I was born about the time that Arredondo came through. This Mission seems to be much the same as when I first remember it,-only some of the buildings were more com- plete. I remember the Convent before it was so much altered. I remember the arcades (row of arches of the Convent) and the granary which projected from the entrance on the southern boundary. Also the foundations of the old Church in- side the walls projected from the granary-the present Church is quite new, except the front. I do not remember ever seeing the "baluarte "-(the fortified tower on the southeastern corner)-used but I have heard of its being used against the In- dians. Yes I remember the hostile Indians coming upon us many times-but they were generally fought in my time inside the square of the Mission. The dwellings used to be much more used formerly. We used to have and house friendly Indians, but they mostly left at last. I remember when there were three Padres to do service here. The old Church was pulled down about fifty years ago. Dependants of the Mission used to live in the barracks at the corner where the baluarte is. I remember another " baluarte " at the entrance opposite the granary. The walls by the other entrance of the western boundary had loop holes, too, but not round towers. I remember often the Spanish troops camping here. I remember Bowie well, he married Gov. Veramendi's daughter. He was a fine looking, fair man. I remember the army of Austin and Fannin camping here in 1835. They camped in the middle of the Plaza. Many colonists (he called them colonists of his own accord which was a touch of old days) came here at that time. I remember Santa Anna, I saw him. He had one leg. I re-
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SAN ANTONIO DE BEXAR.
member very well that the dead of the Alamo fight were burnt. The Texans separately from the Mexican dead. It was the Mexican custom to thus burn their dead after battle. I remember the fight well. I don't know what the Tex- ans defended in the Alamo, but thought it was the whole Mission walls. I don't know. I knew Señora Candelaria formerly. She is old, may be a hundred. She might have been in the Alamo during the fight. Quien Sabe."
HERE ENDETH THE FOURTH MISSION.
The Plazas.
These open spaces which are characteristic of Latin America, and to a great extent of Texas are as follows, beginning in the east and traveling westward :
Alamo Plaza .- Is the outcome of an original space around the Alamo, added to by the destruction of its outworks the " Muralla del Alamo." It has recently been converted into a beautiful garden and surrounding it are the follow- ing buildings of interest : The Church of the Alamo, the Opera House and Club, the Federal Building, and the Menger Hotel. This ground was the scene of Santa Anna's bloody assaults on the Alamo in March, 1836.
Main Plaza .- Is situated on the west side of the business heart of the city and is connected with Alamo Plaza by Commerce and North Alamo street. This Plaza was anciently named La Plaza de las Yslas, and fronting on it and running back to the Military Plaza is the Cathedral of San Fernando, formerly the old Parish Church and yard. This square is also laid out as a handsome pleasure ground.
Military Plaza, -Or, La Plaza de Armas, lies a block to the west of Main Plaza and, previous to the erection of the new Municipal Building, which occupies a site in its centre, was from time immemorial the heart of Mexican life. The small vendors, the freighters, the pastores, peones and vaqueros, all congre- gated here. Here, too, still stand the old Court House and Jail, commonly called the " Bat Cave."
At night, in the olden time, and in a modified form up to within a few months, was to be seen a unique spectacle of open air life belonging rather to the tropics than to any part of the realm of Uncle Sam.
Imagine a large square at that time badly lighted as to municipal illumina- tion, but ablaze with small camp fires and flaming lamps swinging above rows of improvised and shaky tables. All night long one might be served here with viands hot from the Mexican cuisine-Chili con carne, Tamales, Enchiladas, Chili verde, frijoles and the leather-like tortillas. The more fastidious American might enjoy delicately fried eggs and chicken with a cup of fair coffee, followed, perchance, by a corn-shuck "cigarro," rolled by the hand of the dark-eyed " muchacha " in charge.
These al fresco restaurateurs have been hunted by electric lights and city im- provements from Plaza to Plaza, until now a poor remnant of them may be found still further west on Milam Square near the grave of the hero, whilst a few others
CEDAR PANEL, SAN JOSÉ.
FONT AT SAN JOSÉ.
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P. M.K.
A CORNICE AT SAN JOSÉ.
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A CAPITAL AT SAN JOSÉ.
1
A CAPITAL AT SAN JOSÉ.
REESE LIBRARY OF THE
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THE MILITARY ESTABLISHMENT.
cling tenaciously to a coign of vantage in front of the Federal building on Alamo Plaza in the east.
By the tourist " from the states," these peripatetic tables are eagerly sought for as a curiosity to be seen, but only to be patronized in a gingerly kind of way from a weak misgiving as to the origin of the victuals.
As day dawns and the lamps show dimmer, these queer hotel keepers put out their fires and folding their tables, " silently steal away " until another night .*
THE MILITARY ESTABLISHMENT.
Headquarters Department of Texas and the Post of San Antonio.
The Post of San Antonio now established on Government Hill, about one mile north of the city, had its official beginning in 1865. This date, however, is only that of a new birth, and for those who are interested in such matters, we append to the purely "Guide Book" information of this page some further re- marks on the Military history of San Antonio from a much earlier date.
The Present Post, then, went to housekeeping in 1865, immediately after the war, in buildings hired for the purpose The troops remained here until 1873, when they were withdrawn under Special Order No. 148, Headquarters Depart- ment Texas, dated August 7th of that year. They returned in accordance with Special Order No. 158, dated August 28th, 1875, from the same Headquarters.
After many changes, as set forth hereafter, the present magnificent site was occupied under orders dated December 20th, 1879,-the occupation, so far as the Post was concerned, taking place on the 22d of the same month, the Department Headquarters remaining some time longer in the city.
The following will be of interest to visitors :
The hill is reached by the Belknap Street Cars, Avenue C. line. The Post is situated on a rolling plateau, overlooking the city, and elevated 762 feet above the Gulf of Mexico in latitude 29º 26' 33" north, and 98° 27' 33" west longitude.
There is a telegraph office at Department Headquarters and a railway con- nection between the Quartermaster's Depot and the Southern Pacific system.
The buildings were begun on June 21st, 1877, Braden & Angus, contractors, and have only recently been completed, the Government Hospital being built in 1885 and the "New Post," contracted for September 13, 1888. They are tastefully designed, as will be seen from the accompanying illustrations, and are located on a reservation of 162.21 acres. Of this noble site, so worthily occupied by Uncle Sam, 92.79 acres were donated by the city ; 49.18 were acquired by purchase, April 28th, 1884; 19.29 acres by decrees of the District Court of Bexar County, dated April 7th and May 25th, 1883, and .95 acres were granted by the city of San Antonio to complete the donation heretofore referred to.
*Reference is had for further particulars as to these interesting public places to the accompanying maps of La Villa Capital de San Fernando, and the map of the heart of the modern city, also to many further details in historical portions of this work.
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SAN ANTONIO DE BEXAR.
It will be noted, further on, that other sites had been offered to the Govern- ment by the city authorities, both before and after the war, but for various reasons none of them were accepted.
In addition to the Officers' Quarters of the " Old " and "New " Posts and the extensive Barracks, are the Department Offices and Quartermaster's Depot, the following data will give an idea of their importance :
They are built around a quadrangle 624 feet square, the main facade fronting south is 499 feet 6 inches by 33 feet and two stories high. The north front is 624 feet by 30 feet and of one story ; the whole comprising 36 store rooms, 20 offices, extensive work shops and a cellar.
In the center of the quadrangle is a tower formerly used as a water tower, and containing a clock. It is 88 feet high, and from its summit a fine view of the city and its environs may be obtained. Below lies the town with the San Antonio River ineandering southward on its tortuous way to the Gulf, doubling and turn- ing on its journey, as tho' loath to leave the scenes of its birth.
Military Drills .- A feature of Post life, of probably the most interest to visitors, is the Dress Parades and other military functions which are constantly taking place on the hill.
They occur as follows :
Drills .- Almost daily, the time varying with the season of the year. Dress Parade, generally on Tuesday and Thursday at the hour before sun-set. The Monthly Muster and Inspection takes place on the last day of each month, usually about 10 a. m., it is an interesting sight. Guard Mount, with full band, occurs daily about 8:30, a. m., but the hour is sometimes changed during the in- tense heat of summer.
The Organization of the Department and Post may be learned in great de- tail from the Roster issued monthly from the office of the Assistant Adjutant General of the Department.
The Arsenal is located far from the Post on South Flores street and may also be reached by the Belknap line of street cars. It is commanded by an officer of the Ordnance Corps, Major Babbitt, who constitutes one of the Department Com- mander's Staff and supplies the troops with ammunition and accoutrenients.
At the Post are quartered Brigadier General Stanley, commanding the De- partment, and his Personal and Departmental Staffs. Col. Black commanding the Post with four troops of Cavalry, two Batteries of Light Artillery and six com- panies of Infantry, and Col. Weeks Chief Quartermaster, in charge of the De- partment Depot and Offices.
The following is a list of the Post Commanders. The history of the De- partment is treated elsewhere.
Capt. N. Prime, 10th Infantry up to June, 1873, afterwards transferred to Fort McKavett.
Capt. J. W. French, July, 1873, held command until the removal of the troops in August and September of the same year. Capt. French was transferred to Fort Clark.
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NOTES ON MILITARY AFFAIRS.
Capt. Sellers returned with the troops (Co. D, 10th Infantry) in August, 1875. Capt. Wilson, April, 1877, Co. E, 10th Infantry.
Major McMillen, December 12th, 1877, in command of four companies of the 2nd Artillery at Camp Guilford Bailey (the lower portion of the present "old" post) with Capt. Patterson and Company A, 20th Infantry, stationed in town. Capt. Patterson and his Company were transferred to Fort Brown in June, 1880.
Col. Shafter, June, 1880, six Companies, 1st Infantry, afterwards transferred to Fort Davis.
Capt. Dickey, December, 1890, Co. E, 22nd Infantry, afterwards transferred to New Mexico.
Col. Otis, October, 1883, two Troops, 8th Cavalry, increased by four companies, 16th Infantry. Col. Otis was transferred with the 8th Cavalry to Dakota in October, 1887. Captain Lancaster, commanding Battery "F," 3rd Artillery, arrived in December, 1882 Capt. Lancaster was relieved in November, 1886, by Capt. Burbank-the Battery remaining here.
Col. Smith, May, 1888, the 16th Infantry left for Utah and were replaced by six Companies of the 19th Infantry.
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