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Day & H. Chelata deson
· AVXXL. "NOISTATYS JO ALLS London J Murray, Albumarle Street, 1844
TEXAS
AND
THE GULF OF MEXICO; OR
YACHTING IN THE NEW WORLD :
BY
MRS. HOUSTOUN.
WITH PORTRAITS AND ILLUSTRATIONS.
IN TWO VOLUMES.
VOL. I.
LONDON JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 1844.
PRINTED BY W. NICOL, 60, PALL MALL.
DEDICATION.
To those kind friends and acquaintances on the other side of the Atlantic, who so cor- dially welcomed the " Dolphin" to their shores, I venture to dedicate these vo- lumes. It is a satisfaction to me to think, that my pages may recall to their minds the many pleasant hours that I passed among them ; while it will at least prove that I have not forgotten in the Old World, the many instances of kindness and hospitality which I experienced in the New.
M. C. H.
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CONTENTS OF VOL. I.
CHAPTER I.
PAGE
Departure from Blackwall. The schooner yacht
" Dolphin." Bay of Biscay. " Strong breezes
and squally." Nancy, the black woman. 1
CHAPTER II.
First view of Madeira. Funchal. Inhabitants. Vegetation. Vintage. The Conral. Sugar- cane. Invalids. Climate. A Madeira goat. Bad conduct of three of the crew. 16
CHAPTER III.
Departure for the West Indies. Peak of Teneriffe. Dead calm. Employment of the crew. Sunday. Barbadoes. Trade-winds. Dearness of provi- visions, &c. Frogs and grashoppers. Bridge- town. " Miss Betsey Austin. " 37
vi
CHAPTER IV.
PAGE
Storm at sea. Lightning. Flying-fish. Iron light- house. Jamaica. Port Royal Harbour. Earth- quake of 1692. Pirates. Commodore Byng's house. Wallace, the Newfoundland dog. Mus- quitoes. Coloured and white population. Span- ish town. The Queen's house. Kingston. Unwholesome climate. Vultures. Superstition. " The Doctor. " Sally Adams, Departure. . 65
CHAPTER V.
Cape Corrientes. Squally. The Mississippi. Be- lize. Cat-fish. An odd character. Rifle shoot- ing. River Scenery. Thick fog . 113
CHAPTER VI.
New Orleans. The harbour. Texan Commodore. The Hotel of St. Charles. Busy scene on the strand. American manners and customs. Eligi- ble situation of New Orleans. Population of the state of Louisiana. Yellow fever. National edu- cation, Departure from New Orleans. . 137
CHAPTER VII.
Sail for the Gulf of Texas. Galveston. Difficulty of crossing the bar at the mouth of the harbour.
vii
PAGE Captain Elliott. Texas, its position, resources, and extent, . 182
CHAPTER VIII.
Political position of Texas during the first years of her colonization. Events which were the more immediate cause of her declaration of indepen- dence. 202
CHAPTER IX.
Progress of the struggle for Texan Independence.
Declaration of the people of Texas in general con- vention assembled. Cruelty of General Santa Anna. Battle of San Jacinto. Total rout of the Mexican army. 227
CHAPTER X.
Santa Anna brought prisoner to General Houston.
Termination of the struggle, and recognition of the Republic. Constitution of Texas. 243
CHAPTER XI.
The island of Galveston. Curious mode of build- ing houses. Six-roomed house built in a week. Go-a-head career of the Texans. . 255
viii
CHAPTER XII.
PAGE
The public press. Courtesy of the Texans. Dry stores. Important position in society of the pig, The turn-out house. Chewing and spitting. Cli- mate. Comic scene in crossing a Bayon. French Emigrants. Idiot girl 264
CHAPTER XIII.
Sporting in Texas. Provisions. Bogs. Deer- shooting. The Mustany, or wild horse. Fish. Galveston fort. Improvidence and idleness of the Texans. Return to New Orleans. . 291
ILLUSTRATIONS.
City of Galveston to face the title-page.
Funchal, Madeira page 18
Nancy, the Black Woman . 108
Dolphin Yacht in the Mississippi
122
Portrait of General Santa Anna
244
CHAPTER I.
DEPARTURE FROM BLACKWALL. THE SCHOONER YACHT
" DOLPHIN." BAY OF BISCAY, STRONG BREEZES
AND SQUALLY." NANCY, THE BLACK WOMAN.
Vieil océan, dans tes rivages
Flotte comme un ciel écumant,
Plus orageux que les nuages,
Plus lumineux qu'un firmament ! Pendant que les empires naissent, Grandissent, tombent, disparaissent Avec leurs générations,
Dresse tes bouillonnantes crêtes,
Bats ta rive ! et dis aux tempêtes ;
Ou sont les nids des nations ? DE LAMARTINE.
WHO has not seen and admired the remark- able and interesting coup d'œil from the windows of the Trafalgar Hotel at Black- wall ? It was on a bright afternoon early in September that I was seated in one of
B
2
its cheerful rooms looking out on the broad river, and the busy steamers pass- ing to and fro. It was my last evening before leaving England. We were about, if I may so express it, to take up our abode for the next twelve months on the bosom of the Ocean; our intention be- ing to cross the Atlantic, and to visit a large part of the American Continent.
I always feel, before setting out on a long land journey, something approaching to depression of spirits ; but on this occa- sion the entire novelty of the expedition prevented the attack, and my pleasurable anticipations were almost unalloyed. It was a voyage undertaken principally in search of health for me, and I was bound to be pleased with the arrangements made for my comfort. The sun had nearly set when I walked to the West India Dock, in
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which the Dolphin was lying; I could scarcely make her out in the dusky twilight, and this was my first introduction to my future home.
The Yacht had been often described to me, and yet I was surprised at the size of her cabins, and the extreme comfort of her internal arrangements.
I was met by the Master and the Doctor, and on going below found a most enjoyable state cabin, quantities of books, and in short every enjoyment which a reasonable woman could require. My own cabin was large, with two sofas, the bed being a swinging cot, which was taken down in the daytime. My first night on board was spent in the docks, as we intended to leave them at daybreak. No ships I believe ever sail, when they ought to do so, or rather at the time ori- ginally fixed for their departure ; and to
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this rule, ours was no exception. The middle of August was the time when we had intended to have taken our leave of England ; but so many alterations, and im- provements had been required for the ves- sel, that the 13th of September had arrived before we were in readiness to leave Black- wall.
The schooner yacht Dolphin is two hun- dred and nineteen tons burthen, drawing twelve feet water, and measuring one hun- dred feet in length : she carries six guns, and her crew consisted of eleven men, one boy, a carpenter, cook, and cooks' mate ; the other persons on board were the master and surgeon, the mate, steward, and stew- ard's mate, and my own maid. We had also with us a negress, a native of St. Tho- mas in the West Indies, who had been stew- ardess in one of the West India steamers,
5
and who was to attend on me till my own maid became accustomed to the sea. We were in all four and twenty souls on board, and were bound for Madeira as our first resting place.
It was on the morning of the 13th of September 1843, that, after being hooked on to a steamer, we were tugged rapidly down the river. The weather was fine, as it generally is in the beginning of this most pleasant of months in the English climate ; the morning air was clear, bright, and bracing, and ere we reached Gravesend a fresh breeze sprung up from the west- ward, which was just what we wanted. Immediately all sail was made, and having dismissed our little steamer, the Dolphin was soon scudding along, at the rate of ten knots an hour. Before dark we were off Dover, and had put our pilot into his
6
boat. We were becalmed a whole day off the Isle of Wight : this was tedious enough certainly, but still it was pleasant to look, a little longer, on the land we were leaving for so long a period, and I could not help thinking, as I gazed on the lovely Island, how doubtful it was, if, in my wanderings to the far West, I should see anything to compare with it. But with all my ro- mantic admiration for the shores of Eng- land, I confess I was not sorry when to- wards evening a breeze sprung up, taking advantage of which we crowded sail, and soon lost sight of the coast. Our departure having been so long delayed was the cause of considerable inconvenience to us, for on the 21st the moon changed ; and, as we had been led to expect, there arose a gale of wind that certainly surprised me.
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I did not consider myself quite a fresh- water sailor. I had frequently undertaken short voyages before, had yachted in the Mediterranean, and in the Channel, and steamed in various directions near home, but the Bay of Biscay was new to me, and nothing that I had ever before encountered had at all prepared me for what we were to undergo. It was a short pitching sea, with a head wind, called in the log book, " strong breezes and squally," but which I thought at the time were tremendous gales. Sails were reefed constantly, while occasionally a barque or schooner scudded past us, too much engaged in attending to her own safety to take any notice of us. I was at first surprised at the calmness and composure of the ship's crew, enter- taining as I did a private opinion of my own that we were in imminent peril. I
8
kept my fears to myself, however, and learnt to know better in time.
How ill, and miserable, many of our party looked when the wind first began to freshen ! Till now, the sea had been calm as a summer lake, but we had at last to bid adieu to all the pleasurable sensations of fine weather sailing. The very dogs looked wretched, and instead of gambolling about, and enjoying in common with our- selves the novelty of the scene, they flung themselves heavily down, against the side, and when disturbed again by the violent motion of the ship, rolled uneasily and restlessly along the deck in search of some safer berth. The poor doctor was I think the greatest sufferer ; it was really melan- choly to see him, doubled up under the bulwarks, and obliged as he said, if he at- tempted to move, to stick to every thing
9
that came in his way, like a leech. He bore his troubles with exemplary patience, as indeed we all did, and like everything else, they came to an end at last. I was happy enough not to suffer myself, but my maid was a wretched prey to the dis- tressing malady of sea sickness. I believe there never yet existed a lady's maid who was not; though I have never yet been able, either from physical or natural causes, to decide satisfactorily why it should be so .*
Sept. 22nd. Fresh gales, and squally, with rain, two reefs in topsail, mainsail triced up, and very heavy swell. A fearful night succeeded to this stormy day. A
* Here I must take the opportunity of remarking for the benefit of the world in general, and bad sailors in particular, that the most popular dish at this time was currie, it seemed to answer the purposes both of food and medicine.
B II.
10
night not to be forgotten ; at least by me, for in the course of it, an event occurred, which stamped its horrors on my imagina- tion.
The wind being adverse, we were con- stantly obliged to " wear ship," and when this operation was going forward, great care was required, and every precaution taken to prevent such articles of furniture, &c. from getting adrift as were not lashed to the deck, or otherwise rendered im- movable. When we were not prepared for the natural consequences of tacking, the tremendous lurches of the vessel set everything, to say nothing of ourselves, rolling about in mad confusion.
Towards the morning of the 23rd, when the uproar was at its height, sails changing, men rushing along the deck, the wind veer- ing about in all directions, and the conse-
11
quent evolutions in full operation, my maid staggered into my cabin, pale as a ghost, and wringing her hands, " Oh ma'am, the captain says, we are going to turn over !" This was really an awful piece of informa- tion, conveyed too so suddenly : it tallied, moreover, with my own silent fears, and I confess that, at first, I fully shared in the panic.
A minute's reflection, and the still more consoling fact that we continued to remain afloat, shewed me the absurdity of fear. After all, the whole affair proceeded from an attention on the part of the master, who before giving the order to " bout ship," had sent to apprize me of his intention, that I might not be taken by surprise. The message had, however, gone from mate to boatswain, boatswain to steward, &c., till, like all things conveyed through many
12
hands, it became distorted, and by the time it reached my ears, had arrived at the ap- palling announcement that we were going to the bottom.
One good result we perceived from the gale, disagreeable, and frightful enough as it was. It cured every one on board of sea- sickness. I accounted for this by suppos- ing it the effect of the counter irritation system : and that the overpowering evil of mental anxiety, removed the lesser one of corporeal uneasiness.
Some little time before Madeira appeared in sight, the weather moderated, and we all began to cheer up; the dogs shook them- selves and lay down in the sun to dry ; the idlers put on a thin seminautical costume, and Nancy, the black woman, who had been, however, anything but useful during the gales, came upon deck to warm herself.
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In fine weather, she was to be seen stand- ing on the steps of the companion ladder, listening to the rough jokes of the sailors, with her shining black face just above the hatchway. She was evidently a favourite with the men, and I was often amused to see her standing there, showing every white tooth in her head, as she grinned a repar- tee to her merry tormentors. Nancy was a wit in her way, and, though not in her first youth, was certainly something of a coquette, and decidedly vain of her remain- ing attractions. I can see her now sitting on her stockingless heels in the forepart of the vessel, with her red cotton handkerchief tied over her head, chattering faster than any magpie. This was Nancy when the sea was calm; when the wind blew, the case was widely different, and though born and bred a slave, she thought she had as
14
good a right to indulge in sickness and idleness, as her neighbours.
The air had daily felt warmer as we pro- ceeded southward, and the power of the sun by the time we saw Madeira, was al- most too great to be pleasant. I felt glad to be spared the chilling changes of an Eng- lish winter. The great merit of the cli- mate of the Madeiras, consists, I believe, in its freedom from these great sources of suffering and illness to delicate and pulmo- nary constitutions. It is said that while the winter is twenty degrees warmer than in London, the summer is only seven warmer. Thus the extremes of heat and cold are not nearly so violent, as in England. The latitude of Lisbon appeared also charming, and were it not for the dirt, and other small inconveniences, I suppose that Lisbon would be quite as desirable a residence
15
for consumptive patients as Madeira ; it has certainly the advantage of being nearer home.
As we neared the land, I felt that one of the worst stages of our voyage was over. The Bay of Biscay once passed in safety, the wide Atlantic has but few terrors, and I am sufficiently of a sailor to be aware of the great advantages of having plenty of sea room, and no land near.
CHAPTER II.
FIRST VIEW OF MADEIRA. FUNCHAL. INHABITANTS.
VEGETATION. VINTAGE. THE CONRAL. SUGAR-CANE.
INVALIDS. CLIMATE. A MADEIRA GOAT. BAD CON- DUCT OF THREE OF THE CREW.
A ship in sight ! She bears a dismal freight, No gay young hearts, with pleasant hopes elate. *
* *
Here living ghosts gaze up with languid eye, And in the fervid sunshine pine and die.
OLD POEM.
I was much struck by the first view of Madeira : it rises up high, black and steep from the sea, and looks at a distance like a huge ruined wall. As you approach nearer, however, you perceive white spots of houses on the hill sides, churches, temples, and abrupt ridges of mountains, on which seem literally suspended the most lovely gardens.
17
All this, mingled with the green foliage and the almost tropical vegetation, is lovely in the extreme.
Sept. 26. We brought up in Funchal Roads, in twenty-two fathom water. The weather was extremely hot, at least it appeared so to us, though this was the cool season at Ma- deira. I need say nothing of the cordial kindness, and unlimited hospitality of the merchants at Funchal; the fact of their liberality and good feeling to strangers is too well known to need a comment, and our reception furnished but an extra ex- ample of its truth.
A nearer view of Funchal is very amusing to a stranger. The shores are crowded with boats, and with wild-looking Portuguese gesticulating and quarrelling. The shape of the boats is remarkable, their sterns are so high and pointed. The rowers perform
18
their office in an erect posture, and with their faces turned towards the fore part of their craft. Children of very tender years, bronzed by the sun into a deep copper co- lour, are swimming about in all directions, and quite in deep water. The surface of the sea is studded by little black shining heads. In short, the inhabitants generally appear to me to partake of an amphibious nature.
The houses of Funchal are mostly of a dazzling white, which has a very unplea- sant effect on the eyes. The roofs are ge- nerally flat, but you likewise see many turrets and steeples. There is an English Episcopal Church, and an excellent resi- dent minister. The English Library and Reading Club are excellent ; there is, too, a public ball-room, which is well attended ; and in the reading-club I have before men-
Day & Haghe. Lith" to the Queen.
FUNCHAL, MADEIRA London I Murray Albemarle St 1844.
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tioned the amusements of cards and billiards may also be enjoyed.
I have often been surprised at the fond- ness for dancing which prevails in hot cli- mates; the inhabitants seem to enjoy this exercise the more, the higher the thermo- meter ranges. I was told, that in Funchal, during the hottest months, balls were car- ried on with unabated spirit till a late hour in the morning, and that country dances and Scotch reels were executed, with a spirit of enterprise and perseverance un- known in our Northern latitudes.
It is indeed a most beautiful, clear, and enlivening climate ; nevertheless, I was cer- tainly astonished at the degree of vigour, which the inhabitants seemed to retain. We went on shore in a Portuguese boat, and I had an opportunity of comparing, which I always do with peculiar satisfac-
20
tion, the superior cleanliness, promptitude, skill, and composure of an English sailor over his class in every other country. A Portuguese man-of-war lay along side the Dolphin, and the comparison certainly was not in favour of the former. Such hal- looing and such confusion I never heard, as came wafted to us from our neighbours. The officers possessed, I am sure, but little of the salutary authority necessary to keep sailors to their duty.
We were most kindly received by Mr. Temple, who is a resident at Funchal, and gladly remained a week in his comfortable house. We spent our time very pleasantly in wandering about the Island, which, even at this advanced period of the year, pre- sents much both of vegetation and scenery, well worthy of notice. The flowers are beautiful; such a profusion of geraniums,
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fuchsias, and heliotropes, with the glo- rious belladonna lily and bright oleander ! It is a perfect wilderness of sweets and bril- liant colours. The human part of the scenery is by no means in keeping with all this, for a more dirty, disorderly, uncivi- lized population it would be difficult to imagine. Police there is none, and the noises and confusion in the streets, espe- cially at night, are most disagreeable ; they effectually chase sleep, at least from the eyes of a new comer. Mr. Temple's house is situated close to the guard-house, and as the sentries are by far the most noisy people in the place, the neighbourhood is not agreeable. One of their favourite amusements at night was imitating the noises and cries of different animals. They alternately crow like cocks, roar like bulls, and gobble like fifty turkeys. Their imita-
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tions, I must say, were correct, but the ef- fect was anything but pleasing. There ap- pears to be but little religious feeling among them; indeed their priests seemed to be almost objects of contempt, and their places of worship to be nearly neglected.
The squalid poverty you every-where meet with is pitiable and revolting ; the children run about almost in a state of nu- dity, and are the ugliest little set of wretches, excepting, perhaps, the diminu- tive old women, I ever saw. The Portu- guese inhabitants generally require but a small quantity of food, and that consists principally of fruits and Indian corn. They are, though most frequently short in sta- ture, a very strong and hardy race, and their powers of enduring fatigue are great. Of the truth of this I had ample proof in my palanquin bearers, who under a broiling
23
sun, carried me at a sort of ambling pace to the tops of the highest hills, without ap- pearing in the slightest degree exhausted. It is true that on arriving at the summits, they generally begged for a cup of wine at the houses of call, which are conveniently placed there. It is, however, to strangers only that they are in the habit of making the application.
The vineyards are very pretty ; the vines are trained over wooden pillars, supporting a lattice-work of bamboo. The grapes are dried in the shade, which is said to give them a peculiar richness of flavour. The vine was first introduced in Madeira in the year 1420, and was brought from the Island of Crete.
The vintage is just over, and numbers of peasants are busily employed in bringing down the newly made wine from the vine-
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yards in the hills. Some of the men have immense pigskins, filled with the red fluid, slung over their shoulders, while others are driving the pretty cream-coloured oxen into the town, laden in a similar manner. The effect of the pigskins is quite horrid ; they are filled to their utmost extent, even to the legs ; the mouth and nose being tied up ; this appearance of being a real animal is rendered still more unpleasant by the blood-red stains on the hide of the crea- ture. The drivers of the waggons, which are of a most simple and primitive form, are shrieking and bellowing all the while, by way of encouraging their beasts, and that with voices unequalled in the world, I should imagine, for shrillness and power.
The grapes from which the largest quan- tity of wine is made are small and ex- tremely sweet; we have taken a large
25
quantity of them on board, besides ba- nanas, and various sorts of common fruits. The grapes from which the Malmsey wine is made grow upon rocks, over which they are trained - they are not gathered till over ripe.
Among the many fine views which a stranger at Madeira should not fail to visit, that of the Conral stands preeminent. The road to this beautiful spot is steep, and stony. It is a valley completely enclosed by high abrupt hills, none of which are less than a thousand feet in height. The road lies alarmingly near the edge of the precipice s and is moreover extremely narrow. The horses are, however, so active and well trained, that no positive danger exists. A Portuguese runner generally accompanies your horse, encouraging him both by threats and caresses to proceed, and often
C
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not a little impeding his progress by hanging on at his tail. The horses are well shaped, though small, and particularly adapted to the nature of the country, and the roads.
The Mount Church, built on extremely high ground, a short distance from Fun- chal, cannot be passed unnoticed ; the view of the town and roadstead from it is most beautiful and curious. There is a large convent, at which artificial flowers and other sorts of ornamental work can be pro- cured, besides delicious liqueurs, which the nuns manufacture in great variety.
The most beautiful flowers and shrubs are found on the summits of the hills, and the whole appearance of the country is rich and luxuriant, far beyond my powers of description. The interior of the houses are as enjoyable as the gardens are beautiful;
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the rooms are large, high, and airy, and the floors during the hot season are spread with a fine matting ; very little furniture is admitted, and the breeze is allowed to cir- culate freely through the houses.
The dress of the gentlemen is as glaring as the colour of the houses, being white from head to foot ; - jacket of white linen, sailcloth boots, and trowsers of the same. A large palmetto hat completes the cos- tume, which if not becoming, is well suited to the climate.
I enjoyed my palanquin extremely. The motion is very easy, and sufficiently rapid, considering the great inequalities of the ground ; I do not think that a horse could get over the ground quicker. It was some time before I hardened my heart to the supposed sufferings of the bearers, which after all were entirely imaginary. Eng-
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