USA > Texas > Harris County > Houston > Texas and the Gulf of Mexico ; or, Yachting in the New World, volume 1 > Part 6
Note: The text from this book was generated using artificial intelligence so there may be some errors. The full pages can be found on Archive.org (link on the Part 1 page).
Part 1 | Part 2 | Part 3 | Part 4 | Part 5 | Part 6 | Part 7 | Part 8 | Part 9 | Part 10
If the Americans are the proud, sensitive people that De Tocqueville asserts them to be, how is it that this pride is wholly and
153
solely personal ? How is it that it does not make them feel more acutely as a nation, and induce them to bestow a little of the anxiety they display for themselves as indi- viduals, on the honour and name of the country of which they affect to be so vain.
The fact is, that, like many other proud, or I should say, vain people, it is the very sense of their public deficiencies, and the knowledge that their want of national faith is held up as a scorn and a warning among the nations of the earth, that induces them to wrap themselves up in this dignified (?) gravity, and in a cold and repellent de- meanour. An American does not even relax at his meals, (to be sure, they oc- cupy but a short space of time) his "at- tachment to his cares" is greater than ours to our pleasures; and it is this, as I said H II.
154
before, that renders him so uninteresting a character.
The ladies cannot be uninteresting here ; they are so pretty, so gentle, and so femi- nine looking. I have said that they walk alone, and unprotected ; at the same time, I ought to add, that so great is the respect in which ladies are held in America, that such a course can rarely be attended by any dis- agreeable consequences. The taste which the American ladies display in their dress is questionable. It is true, their gowns, bon- nets, caps, &c. all arrive from Paris, and I much question whether an American lady would condescend to wear anything, which she even suspected was made by any other than Parisian fingers.
The natural conclusion to be drawn from this fact would be, that the American ladies dress well. I, however, am far from think-
155
ing so. It is true, that each individual ar- ticle is well made, and the fashion correct. How can it be otherwise, when expense is not regarded, and Baudrant's choicest shew-rooms are ransacked for the New World ? Still, the tout ensemble is not pleasing ; the cap or bonnet, however pretty, is not put on well, and the colours are never tastefully mingled.
Ladies in America are too fond of gla- ring colours; and though their faces are lovely, they do not hold themselves well, and their figures are rarely good. I think I never saw so much beauty, or loveliness, so varied in its character, as I did in New Orleans. There was the fair English-Ame- rican, with her slight stooping figure, far surpassing, in charm of feature, the beau- ties of the "Old Country." The Creole- brunette, with her springy form, and ac-
156
tive, graceful walk, cannot be passed unno- ticed ; she looks very determined, however, and, as if the strife of active and angry pas- sions were often at war within her bosom. But lastly, and far more beautiful than either, I noticed the rich dark cheek of the Quadroon. The eloquent blood in her soft cheek speaks but too plainly of her des- pised descent. She seems to blush at the injustice of man, who visits upon her the sins of her fathers. The passer-by arro- gantly bids her stand aside, for he is holier than she; in bitter contempt, the women of the land shrink from her contact, and the large sleepy eye, half hid by its curled fringes, is hardly raised, as gracefully and humbly she passes them by. Poor thing ! what wonder, if, feeling that she is neg- lected and oppressed, she should turn in the desolation of her heart to other ties.
157
Deprived too frequently of the many con- solations of kindred affection; a solitary link in the chain of human sympathies - brotherless, friendless, alone! Let those who have never known what solitude of the heart is, speak harshly of the errors of the despised Quadroon. I can but pity her.
All these, and much more, I saw and no- ticed during my first long drive through the busy streets of New Orleans. There is indeed much to see, and much to remark upon ; but close observation, after a time, becomes wearying, and I was not sorry to find myself arrived at the hotel. What a really magnificent building it is, with its immense façades, it quite strains ones eyes to catch a glimpse of its gigantic dome. The Americans certainly build remarkably fine looking edifices sometimes. I am not sure, however, that they are intended to
158
last. Yankees are too apt to chalk out fine plans, and commence splendid buildings, which after a time, and when . only begun, they leave to Providence to finish.
"A new country is never too young for exertion - push on - keep moving - go ahead." This is the American's motto. They forget their youth, and consequent want of strength, in this very love of ex- ertion, and fondness for attempt and " movin."
All this however does not apply to the St. Charles, which is finished, and is as good a specimen of a first-rate hotel as can be found anywhere. The establishment is con- ducted on a most liberal and splendid scale. The rooms for the table d'hôtes are im- mense, and public eating goes on at all hours of the day. Longer time is spent at
159
table by the Americans, at New Orleans, than in other parts of the Union, and greater attention is paid to the details of the cui- sine. This may perhaps be accounted for by the admixture of French inhabitants, and consequent Gallic tastes and feelings.
The ladies have a table d'hôte appro- priated to them alone; I could not under- stand why they were to have this indul- gence, if indulgence it can be called, and I wondered at first why they could not wait till the hour of their husband's return from 'change, for their afternoon, and, what we consider, principal meal.
I found out during my stay, that eating was, to judge from the frequency of its recurrence, the favourite amusement of the ladies, at New Orleans. They breakfasted at nine, then a luncheon was spread at eleven, dinner at four, tea at six, and
160
supper at nine o'clock ; at all these hours, a gong of tremendous power sounds clang- ingly through the hotel, summoning the fair boarders from their different apart- ments, to join in the social meal.
About one hundred ladies, I was told, sat down daily to these feminine repasts. I do not think that English women would submit to this, and great credit is due to the fair Americans, for the submission with which they give in to the wishes of their " lords." To be sure there is much in habit, and American women know, from their marriage day, the delights of living publicly in boarding houses, while they are altogether ignorant of the charms of a pri- vate life, the quiet delights of home, its necessary duties, and its chosen society.
It is the want of employment to fill up their long leisure hours, (for though highly
161
gifted, and carefully educated, American ladies are not all studious and literary) which increases the number of their meals, fosters their love of dress, and creates the tendency to gossip.
The ladies here see but little of their husbands : it would be well were it other- wise. The influence of a wife is silent but great, and no women in any country are better formed to use their power with moderation and discretion, had they but the opportunity of exerting it. All day the husband is absent attending to his everlasting business, and contracting habits and manners, which the few short moments he devotes to ladies' society are insufficient to counteract.
Still women take a high position in the United States; their education is superior to that of the men, and their writings have
162
in late years raised them to an elevated grade, on the ladder of literary fame.
But I must return to the internal ar- rangements of this hotel, which, in fact, afford an excellent idea of the mode of life in this great capital of the Southern States.
The evenings are occupied by music and dancing: the latter is a favourite amuse- ment here, as I believe it to be generally in America. The ladies invite such gentle- men as they think agreeable, to take part in their amusements ; and every evening till long past midnight, I was kept awake by the stirring and animated sounds occasioned by a " carpet dance," with its accompanying gig- gling, fiddling, and floor-shaking. Still, I was quite glad to hear them, for I had really felt for the monotonous lives led by the poor la- dies, and had imagined the gentleman capa-
163
ble of nothing but bargaining, liquoring and shaving .* I was wrong, and so have many travellers in the States been before me. Most of the latter have neither remained long enough in the country to discover the truth, nor have they ever sufficiently thrown away the veil of prejudice, so as to enable them to see otherwise than " through a glass darkly."
Our private apartments were very com- fortable, well carpeted, excellent fires, lux- urious furniture, and curtains of the richest blue damask. The only hotel to which I can at all compare it, is that of " Les Princes " at Paris. I could almost have fancied myself in that region of luxury, good living, and civility; there are white helps of the male sex, (our attendant was English ) and seven excellent Parisian cooks ;
* Anglicè, taking your neighbour at a disadvantage.
164
I need not add that the cuisine was as good as possible. My bed room was delightful ; such snow-white musquito curtains, and endless rocking chairs and Psyches ! really had it not been for the appearance of the two former I should have found it hard to remember that I had crossed the water.
An American breakfast, (when it is good of its kind) is not to be surpassed in any other country ; great variety of fish and fruit, preserves of every kind, and cakes of all sizes and descriptions. The buffalo tongues are very praiseworthy, and so are the Philadelphia hams, which they assert, (and I cannot deny) " whip the West- phalia by a long chalk." I thought their far famed buckwheat cakes delicious, they are buttered and eaten when hot, -but how unwholesome ! nothing but an American
165
digestion could venture to indulge in them habitually.
The price of all these little enjoyments is rather high, in proportion to either Paris or London. For three rooms, food, lights, in short every thing (except wine) included for my husband, myself and my maid, the charges was seventeen dollars a day ; but then it must be remembered that we dieted (Yankee again) in private.
The day after our arrival, our new ac- quaintance Commodore Moore paid us a visit, accompanied by a General Euston ; The former certainly did spin us some wonderful yarns, concerning the new coun- try we were about to visit; but it was all very amusing, and only made us the more determined to see and judge for our- selves .*
* The poor Commodore since those days has done
166
I did not see, in America, any of the offensive familiarity which is said to exist between masters and servants, or any of that objection on the part of the waiting class to attend as servants upon those, whom the accident or acquisition of wealth had placed for the time being in a superior situation of life. In America no honest calling is degrading, each man aspiring at some future time to hold as important a place in the world as another. Thus, while fulfilling the duties of a servant, he certainly feels himself upon an equality
many wonderful things, besides saying them. I was quite sorry to read in a Texan paper, that he had been accused of piracy ; he certainly appeared ready to do any thing, (as the school boys say, " from pitch and toss to manslaughter ") for his country.
General Euston has likewise I regret to learn, paid the debt of nature, having been murdered (poor old gen- tleman) by a faction. These things appear more sad when one has known the parties, however slightly.
167
with his present employer, who may (how- ever important his present situation) have commenced life with as small an amount of the all powerful cash as himself. This feeling, and these aspirations, naturally pre- vent any of the lowliness, and indeed ser- vility, which is often the characteristic of servants in aristocratic countries ; it does more, it no doubt induces that certainty of equality which to us is so objectionable. As sensible men, however, having entered into a temporary engagement and covenant to serve and, therefore, to obey, they do not (at least those who wish to maintain a good reputation, and gratify their employers) in- dulge in useless vaunts of liberty and equa- lity, but without servility, and with sufficient respect, do their duty during their volun- tary engagement, as well, or better, than the servants of many other countries. The
168
terms of service over, the former master may shake hands with, and converse in familiar terms with his quondam servant, without fear of compromising his dignity, or coming in contact with language and habits inferior or different to his own. Some there must be, whose disposition and frame of mind are dangerously affected by this state of things; who lose the sense of their temporary dependence, in the broad sea of democratic and over-liberal opinions, but these instances, among a serious, methodical, and sensible people like the Americans, are rare, and by no means sufficient to contro- vert my opinion that, (to use the words of the French writer, from whom I have previously quoted,) " the relation of servants and mas- ters is not disorganized." It is rather dan- gerous to take English servants to the United States ; there are very few, com-
169
paratively speaking, whose attachment and good sense are proof against the tempting charms and delusions of nominal equality. We had, fortunately, many opportunities during our stay of becoming acquainted with some of the most wealthy merchants of this wealthy city, and I did not fail to make every enquiry of them concerning its resources, its institutions, and its capabili- ties as a rising commercial capital. The situation of New Orleans is one of almost unparalleled eligibility. It can command twenty thousand miles of river naviga- tion ; thus, indeed, having " water privi- leges" on a large scale; and then, with the sea, its navigation is perfectly easy, not only directly down the Mississippi, but by a canal and basin to the lake of Pontchar- train. Thus, its proximity to the ocean renders it almost a sea-port town. The VOL. I. I
170
immense quantity of cotton with which the city is literally choked up, during that part of the year when the crop is brought in, would alone give one some faint idea of the extent of its commerce. During the time we were in the harbour, there could not have been much fewer than sixteen hun- dred commercial flat-bottomed boats busily engaged in it.
Louisiana, of which New Orleans is the capital, comprised, in the year 1538, Flo- rida, Alabama, Mississippi, South Tenessee, and Missouri. It received its name from the French King. In 1718, the city of New Orleans was founded. In 1732, the popu- lation amounted to five hundred whites, and two thousand blacks. In 1812, Louisi- ana became one of the States of the Union. In this year, also, the first steam-boat built on the Mississippi came down the river,
171
from Pittsburgh to New Orleans. Soon after this, the war with England was con- cluded. But previously to this year, se- veral new settlements had been made, and lands were colonized in Arkansas ; but the principal settlements were at Dauphin Is- land, Pensacola, and Mobile. In the year 1727, the Jesuits and Ursuline nuns ar- rived from France, and many convents and religious edifices were erected. In 1730, the Council House and Jail were built. During this year, the price of a negro was one hundred and twenty-six dollars, now it averages five hundred !
In 1769, the colony was ceded to Spain, and in the same year the yellow fever made its first appearance at New Orleans. The Cathedral, or Church of St. Louis, is one of the most interesting objects in the city, though, alas ! suffered to fall almost into
172
ruins. It was built about this period, by the Spaniards. The architecture, though beautiful, is said by connoisseurs to be neither pure nor regular. The grand en- trance, consisting of a semicircular arched door, with two Tuscan columns on either side, is in the middle of the front part of the building, which is finely situated, in the centre of the Place d'Armes.
On looking over the annual lists of the amount of shipping in the harbour, in learning the value of their cargo, and in comparing, one year with another, the cen- sus, and the revenue, one cannot but con- sider New Orleans as an unparalleled in- stance of the rapid increase of prosperity.
In the year 1802, two hundred and fifty- six vessels, of different kinds, entered the Mississippi. The population of the city, in 1810, was twenty-four thousand five hun-
173
dred and fifty-two, having been trebled in seven years. As I before mentioned, the great epoch in the history of this rising city, took place in the year 1812, when the first steam-boat entered its harbour. In 1834, the city was first lighted with gas. In 1830, the population, including blacks and whites, amounted to forty-nine thou- sand eight hundred and twenty-six. In or- dinary years, the amount of deaths in New Orleans averages three thousand eight hun- dred. It is calculated, that about one in fifty die of pulmonary consumption ; and five hundred, at least, in passing through the acclimating process.
According to the official details in the record of the dead, during the year 1822, the largest number of deaths, in any one day, of yellow fever, was sixty ; and of other casualties, eighty. During 1841, the
174
highest number, from yellow fever, was forty-three ; and the greatest mortality, sixty ; thus satisfactorily shewing, that the health of the city is improving.
The process of draining the immense morasses, which almost surround New Or- leans, is attended with great difficulty, and proceeds but slowly.
The greatest rise of the Mississippi takes place early in the summer, when the snows melt in the north and the hill country. When this rise takes place, the streets of New Orleans are three or four feet below the level of the river, and its inundations are sometimes of great service in cleansing and refreshing the city, during this season of heat and fever.
There are many charitable associations in New Orleans, and noble institutions for the relief of the sick and poor. The
175
churches are handsome and numerous, and the prisons remarkably well conducted.
The markets are clean, and more than usually well supplied with every necessary of life. Fruit is in great abundance ; ap- ples, nuts of all kinds and sizes, from the cocoa to the peccan, and pine-apples in profusion, - the latter were introduced from the island of Cuba.
But to return to the public buildings. We greatly regretted having been at New Orleans after the burning of the St. Charles' Theatre. I believe it was almost unrivalled, even in Europe, for its size, comfort, and the splendour of its decora- tions. The cotton presses on the Levee are well worth seeing, as are also the Mer- chants' Exchange, and the Banks ; the City Exchange is also very handsome.
Fires are very frequent at New Or-
176
leans, partly owing to the large proportion of wood used in erecting the houses. The fire arrangements are admirable.
Their system of national education can- not be too highly praised. There is a com- pelled tax of one per cent. on all appraised property ; for this, every one receives in- struction for his children, be they ever so numerous. This education comprises every branch of knowledge, and every sort of ac- complishment. The masters themselves are people of acknowledged worth and conside- ration, and receive large salaries. On Washington's birthday, thousands of these young citizens of the Republic were pa- raded through the streets, their teachers or governors at their head; they were on their way to church, to fete the memory of their national hero. I noticed one ex- tremely pretty and lady-like person at the
177
head of one of the lines of girls. She was very young, and held down her head, as if rather an unwilling sharer in the exhibition. On enquiry, I found she was the wife of a military man, with a small income, and possessing great musical talent, had been appointed singing mistress, with a salary of two hundred pounds per annum. To an European, and especially to an English- man, this admixture of the classes of so- ciety, seems at first both strange and ill- advised. But he should recollect, that there is not, as with us, a broad line of demarca- tion to separate the rich or the well-born, from the poor and low; that each has a right to mingle with each, and that it is not the degradation of poverty, but of vice and incapacity, which keeps one man below another. I am aware, though no politician, that in thickly populated countries, and in
178
governments such as ours, this system of education could not be carried out ; but in the States, where there is plenty of space for each man to run his career, without jostling his neighbour, where courage, per- severance, and talent are sure to be re- warded with success, it is assuredly sound policy to raise as many useful citizens, and as few ignorant and unprincipled ones as possible.
The whole character of the city, particu- larly of that part which is called the French quarters, is very indicative of its Gallic origin. The names of the streets are principally French, with generally an English translation beneath, such as, " Rue des Grands Hommes," " Great Men Street," " Rue des Morales," " Moral Street," &c. There are few good roads, as I found to my particular inconvenience, being shaken
179
and jolted in a manner perfectly indescriba- ble. The streets are wretchedly paved, but the carriages are good, and the springs on which they are hung, particularly safe and easy.
Nothing can exceed the civility of the store-keepers. It is true, they will not put themselves much out of their way, but then a refusal or an excuse is made with polite- ness, and you are not pressed and urged to purchase, as you so often are in European shops. A stranger also should recollect, that the value he sets upon his dollar, is very different from the estimation in which it is held here. He must learn to regard it as a sixpence, and part with it as such. Dollars are not scarce at New Orleans. As a proof of this, I will mention a trifling affair which occurred, I remember, soon after our arrival, one of our party went into
180
a watchmaker's store, to purchase a glass for a watch. After a short delay, a gentle- man emerged from an inner room, with his mouth filled, not only with the eternal quid, but with no small portion of his din- ner besides. On hearing the demand, he very coolly replied, " Well now, as I'm eat- ing my dinner, if you're going right up and down town, s'pose you just call again, and see if I've done, and then we'll put a glass in that watch." His surprised customer took up his property, and slightly hinted that he would go to another store for his glass. No attempt was made to detain him - the dollar was no more to the New Orleans trader, as I said before, than a six- pence.
We had now been a fortnight at anchor in the Mississippi, and, like true sailors, were longing for change and variety. On
181
the 13th of December, therefore, it was with cheerful hearts, that the men manned the windlass, and prepared for sea. How I enjoyed their impromptu songs ; the words were rough, and the airs were still more so. Still, as I heard the fine voice of the boatswain, leading off with
The saucy schooner off she go, Merrily on to Texas ho !
I was quite exhilirated, and felt as if no future tempests could lessen my love either for the ship or its element.
CHAPTER VII.
SAIL FOR THE GULF OF TEXAS. GALVESTON. DIFFI- CULTY OF CROSSING THE BAR AT THE MOUTH OF THE HARBOUR. CAPTAIN ELLIOTT. TEXAS, ITS PO- SITION, RESOURCES, AND EXTENT.
The power of armies is a visible thing, Formal, and circumscribed in time and space, But who the limits of that power shall trace, Which a brave people into light can bring, Or hide, at will, -for freedom combating By just revenge inflamed ?
WORDSWORTH.
Say, what is honour ? - "Tis the finest sense Of justice which the human mind can frame. WORDSWORTH.
DEC. 13. Left New Orleans, and made sail down the river. Wind and current both in our favour. Brought up at six o'clock in nine fathom water; cold but fine.
183
DEC. 14. Working down the river; mo- derate breezes and fine. At five o'clock, P. M. anchored in eight fathom water, with fifteen fathom cable.
DEC. 15. Towards the close of this day we found ourselves near the South-West pass out of the river, and truly rejoiced we were, for we were quite tired of mud, and snags, and longed for the blue water of the deep sea.
Dec. 16. Fresh breezes, and a bright sun, the weather was rather cold, but the fresh- ness of the air coming over the sea was delightful, and we were all enjoying in an- ticipation, the delights of the wild country to which we were bound.
Need help finding more records? Try our genealogical records directory which has more than 1 million sources to help you more easily locate the available records.