History of Utah, Part 28

Author: Whitney, Orson Ferguson
Publication date: 1892
Publisher: Salt Lake City, Cannon
Number of Pages: 1026

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At Pacific Springs, two miles west of the Pass, the pioneer van- guard met Major Moses Harris, a noted scout and trapper, who had accompanied to that point a party of travelers from Oregon, going east. He intended now to return, as guide to some of the emigrant companies bound for the north-west. From him the pioneers derived some information regarding the region of their destination,-the valley of the Great Salt Lake. His report, like Fremont's, was rather discouraging. He spoke of the country as sandy and destitute of timber and vegetation, excepting sagebrush. He gave a more favor- able account of "a small region under the Bear River mountains, called Cache Valley," where trappers and traders were in the habit of "caching" their furs and other effects to hide them from the Indians. Cache Valley, Major Harris said, was "a fine place for wintering cattle." He presented for the perusal of the pioneers a file of Oregon papers beginning with the date of February 11th, 1847; also a number of the California Star, published by Samuel Brannan at Yerba Buena, and edited by E. P. Jones.

In this neighborhood also, according to Erastus Snow, they encountered another veteran mountaineer, Thomas L. Smith-sur- named "Pegleg"-who lived in the Bear River mountains, near Soda Springs. He advised them to direct their course toward Cache Valley, and plant their colony in that region.

In the forenoon of June 28th, the pioneers arrived at the point

* So named from the fact that a passing party had there celebrated the 4th of July.

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where the Oregon and California roads diverged. Taking the latter or left-hand route, they crossed the Little Sandy, and that evening met Colonel James Bridger, of Bridger's Fort, accompanied by two of his men. They were on their way to Fort Laramie. In conversation with President Young and the other leaders, with whom he encamped that night, Bridger gave them in his peculiar way additional informa- tion regarding the route ahead, and the region toward which they were traveling. His report was synopsized by historian Clayton as follows:

We will find better grass as we proceed; there is no blacksmith shop at his fort at present ; there was one but it was destroyed. Nearly a hundred wagons have gone over the Hastings route through Weber's Fork. They crossed the Black's Fork, and went a little south of west from his place. It is impossible for wagons to follow down Green River. Neither can it be followed in boats. * From Bridger's Fort to the Great Salt Lake, Hastings said, was about one hundred miles. Bridger himself had been through fifty times, but could form no correct idea of the distance. Mr. Hast- ings' route leaves the Oregon road at Bridger's. We could pass over the mountains further south but in some places we would meet with heavy bodies of timber and would have to cut our way through. In the Bear River Valley there is oak timber, sugar trees, cottonwood and pines. There is not an abundance of sugar maple, but plenty of beautiful pines. There is no timber on the Utah Lake, but some on the streams emptying into it. Into the outlet of the Utah Lake three well timbered streams empty. In the valleys southeast of the Salt Lake there is an abundance of blue grass and white clover. The outlet of the Utah Lake does not form a large river, neither a rapid current, but the water is muddy and the banks of the river low. Some of his men have been around the Salt Lake in canoes. But while they went out hunting, their horses were stolen by the Indians. They then spent three months going round the lake in canoes hunting beavers, the dis- tance being five hundred and fifty (?) miles. The Utah tribe of Indians live around the lake and are a bad people, if they catch a man alone they are sure to rob and abuse him, if they don't kill him, but parties of men are in no danger. These Indians are mostly armed with guns. * * There was a man who had opened a farm in Bear River Valley, where the soil is good and likely to produce grain, were it not for the excessive cold nights. There is a good country south of the Utah Lake or southeast of the Great Basin. Three rivers unknown to travelers enter into the Sevier Lake. There is also a splendid country north of the California mountains, calculated to produce every kind of grain and fruit, and there are several places where a man might pass from it over the mountains to the California settlements in a day. The great desert extends from the Salt Lake to the Gulf of California, which is perfectly barren. Mr. Bridger supposes it to have been an arm of the sea. There is a tribe of Indians in that country who are unknown to either travelers or geographers. They make farms and raise an abundance of grain of various kinds. He can buy any quantity of the very best

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wheat from them. * * This country lies south of Salt Lake, distant * about twenty days' travel, but the country through which one would have to go to reach it is bad, and there would be no grass for animals to subsist on. He supposes there might be access to it from Texas. * He never saw any grapes on the Utah Lake, but there are plenty of cherries and berries of several kinds. He thinks the region around the Utah Lake is the best country in the vicinity of the Salt Lake, and the country is still better the farther south one goes until the desert is reached, which is upwards of two hundred miles south of the Utah Lake. There is plenty of timber on all the streams and mountains and an abundance of fish in the streams. He passed * through the country a year ago last summer in the month of July ; there is generally one or two showers of rain every day, sometimes very heavy thunder storms but not accom- panied by strong winds. * * He said we would find plenty of water from here to Bridger's Fort, except after crossing Green River, when we have to travel about twenty miles without water, but there is plenty of grass. * * We need not fear the Utah Indians, for we could drive the whole of them in twenty-four hours. Mr. Bridger's theory was not to kill them, but make slaves of them. The Indians south of the Utah Lake raise as good corn, wheat and pumpkins as were ever raised in old Kentucky.

In conclusion, the erratic Colonel expressed the opinion,-simi- lar to that of Major Harris,-that it would be unwise to bring a large colony into the Great Basin until it had been proven that grain could be raised there. He said that he would give a thousand dollars for the first ear of corn that ripened in Great Salt Lake Valley.

Crossing and journeying down the right bank of the Big Sandy, the pioneers on the last day of June came to Green River. Several of them there fell sick with mountain fever, causing delirium; though none of the cases were considered dangerous, or threatened to be of long duration. The river was high and rapid,-abont eighteen rods wide, with from twelve to fifteen feet of water in the channel. Ford- ing was therefore out of the question. Two rafts were constructed from the cottonwood trees lining the banks of the river, and prepar- ations for crossing the stream at once begun.

Just at this juncture, who should ride into camp but Elder Samuel Brannan, the same who, in February, 1846, had sailed from New York for California on the ship Brooklyn. He was just from the Bay of San Francisco, having left there with two companions on the 4th of April, one day before the pioneer vanguard started from Win-

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ter Quarters. lder Brannan and his companions had crossed the Sierras over the deep snows which had buried the Donner party,- whose ghastly relics in skulls and scattered bones they had beheld in passing,-and come by way of Fort Hall to meet the pioneers. Brannan informed the President that his colony, which had reached the Bay of San Francisco on the 31st of the previous July, were settling on the San Joaquin river. He had brought with him from the coast sixteen copies of the California Star, the paper he had there established. Brannan's main purpose in coming to meet the Presi- dent was to induce him to settle with his people on the Pacific coast. In this he was unsuccessful.

Green River was now crossed and before noon on the 3rd of July all the wagons were safe over. A camp was formed three miles below the point of crossing. The President now gave such of the pioneers as had families in the next company the privilege of return- ing to meet them. Five only decided to return, namely: Phinehas H. Young, George Woodward, Aaron F. Farr, Eric Glines and Rodney Badger. Taking the Cutter wagon they started eastward on the morning of the 4th. They were accompanied to the ferry by President Young, Heber C. Kimball and a few others. They there met thirteen of Captain Brown's Battalion men, out in pursuit of horse-thieves, who had stolen from them at Pueblo and were now supposed to be at Fort Bridger. One of the soldiers-William Walker-decided to return with the five pioneers. The others, escorted by the President and his party, joined the pioneer camp. The "glorious 4th," it being the Sabbath, was sacredly observed by the pioneers on Green River.

Resuming their journey, they continued a few miles down the right bank of the river, then leaving it and ascending some bluffs, crossed a gently undulating sandy plain, and descended upon Black's Fork. Following up that stream they forded Ham's Fork, crossed and recrossed the Black, and finally on July 7th arrived at Fort Bridger. This celebrated post-the second permanent one established on the great overland route-consisted of two adjoining log houses,

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with dirt roofs, surrounded by a stockade of logs eight feet high. It was built upon one of several small islands formed by as many branches of Black's Fork. These islands were covered with excellent grass, and had considerable timber; mostly cottonwood and willow. The fort, still owned by Bridger and Vasquez, was the abode of a score or more of human beings, white men, Indian women, and half- breed children. In the vicinity were nine Indian lodges, where dwelt the families of other trappers and hunters who had also taken squaws for wives.

Here the pioneers again set up their forges, shoeing horses and repairing wagons, prior to undertaking the rough mountainous journey now before them. Despite all adverse reports, President Young had decided to penetrate to and colonize, if possible, the desert shores of the Great Salt Lake. The route thither lay to the south- west, along the rugged spurs of the towering Uintahs, snow-capped and glistening in the July sun.

On the 9th they set out from Fort Bridger, by way of the Hast- ings Cut-off. Samuel Brannan and a few others returned toward South Pass to meet Captain Brown and his detachment. Near Bear River the pioneers encountered Miles' M. Goodyear, another moun- taineer, who was also somewhat acquainted with Great Salt Lake Valley. He owned a place on Weber River, where he had built a stockade similar to Fort Bridger, and was engaged in trading, trapping and stock-raising. He gave them little or no encouragement, but spoke of hard frosts, cold climate and the difficulty of raising grain and vegetables in that region. Still they pressed on undaunted. Fording Bear River, which stream yielded them some fine trout, they continued following the dim wagon trail of previous emigration, as it rose over steep hills or plunged into deep and rocky ravines now in their path.

At noon on the 12th President Young, who was stricken with mountain fever, fell behind with a few wagons, but requested the main body to move on. They did so, and that night camped near a large and curious cave, which they named for one of their number

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Redding's Cave,-Jackson Redding being one of the first to visit it. This was at the head of Echo Canyon.

Next morning messengers were sent back to meet the President. Returning with Heber C. Kimball, they reported that the President was better, but would not travel that day. Orson Pratt was requested to take wagons and men, and preceding the main body down the canyon, endeavor to find near its mouth the Reed and Donner trail across the mountains to the Great Salt Lake. Weber Canyon, the route generally followed from the mouth of Echo, had been reported impassable owing to high water.

At about 3 p. m. Orson Pratt's vanguard, consisting of forty-two men with twenty-three wagons, started down Echo Canyon. This company was composed as follows:

Orson Pratt, (commanding), Benjamin B. Crow,

Lewis B. Myers,

Stephen Markham, (aide),

John S. Eldredge,

Elijah Newman,

John Brown,

Joseph Egbert,

David Power,

C. D. Barnum,

Nathaniel Fairbanks,

O. P. Rockwell,

Charles Burk,

John S. Freeman,

Jackson Redding,

Francis Boggs,

Green Flake,

A. P. Chessley,

John S. Gleason,

Shadrach Roundy, James W. Stewart, Gilbroid Summe,

Oscar Crosby, David Grant,

Lyman Curtis,

Hans C. Hansen,

Horace Thornton,

James Chessney,

Levi Jackman,

Marcus B. Thorpe,

Walter Crow,

Stephen Kelsey,

George W. Therlkill,

John Crow, Levi N. Kendall,

Norman Taylor,

Robert Crow,

Hark Lay,

Seth Taft,

Walter H. Crow,

Joseph Matthews,

Robert Thomas,

The women and children of the Crow family accompanied them, and were thus among the first to enter Salt Lake Valley.]

Echo Canyon,-which was destined to become more historic still in Utah annals,-was described by Orson Pratt as a narrow valley from ten to twelve rods wide, upon each side of which the hills rose abruptly to a height of from eight to twelve hundred feet, with ver- tical and overhanging precipices of red pudding-stone and red sand- stone, dipping to the north-west in an angle of about twenty degrees. The canyon ran south-west. The rocks were worked into many

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curious shapes, probably by the rains, and the country was very mountainous in every direction. The road down the canyon was quite rough, crossing and recrossing the stream-Red Fork or Echo Creek-many times. Willow and aspen grew in the valley and upon the slopes, and there were some scrub cedars clinging to the rocks and upon the hills. Echo Creek, toward the mouth, was a small stream eight feet across, putting into the Weber from its right bank. Weber River at this point was about seventy feet wide and two or three feet deep, with a rapid but clear current rolling over a bottom of boulders. Its course was west-north-west. The height above the sea at the junction of the two streams was found to be 5,301 feet.

Such was Echo Canyon in July, 1847. Ten years and a few months later that narrow valley, walled in by vertical and overhang- ing cliffs, blocked with ice and snow-a veritable bulwark of Nature- wore a somewhat different aspect, and became the scene of one act of an intensely interesting drama, in which the nation whence the pioneers had fled, and the mountain-girt state which they and their compatriots here framed, played principal and opposing parts. What- ever the merits of that controversy-and the full truth of it has never yet been told-Echo Canyon and its warlike episode are immortal. The bridge that Horatius kept, the storied pass of Ther- mopylæ, are not more securely niched in History's golden temple of the past, than Echo Canyon in her pantheon of the present and the future.

The most difficult part of the pioneer journey was still before them. Level plains and rolling prairies were long since past. Their path now lay wholly among the mountains. High hills, deep ravines, rugged canyons, rock-obstructed and choked with brush and timber,-over and through these they must cut and dig their way.

Passing down the Weber about four miles, crossing that stream and striking the Donner trail-now so dim as to be hardly discernible -the Pratt vanguard proceeded toward East Canyon .* A dozen men

* The statement sometimes made that the Mormon Pioneers, on their way from Echo Canyon in July, 1847, entered Parley's Park, is an error.

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with spades and axes went before the wagons. Six miles up a ravine, through which flowed a small, clear stream, brought them to a dividing ridge, whence they descended slowly another ravine so choked and obstructed as to be all but impassable. Four hours were consumed in going about two miles.

At length they reached East Canyon. Up that difficult gorge they toiled for eight weary miles, crossing and recrossing its crooked willow-fringed torrent thirteen times. Large grey wolves, startled out of their lairs, glared fiercely at them as they passed, and reluc- tantly retired up neighboring glens and ravines. The deadly rattle- snake-the policeman among reptiles-sounded his warning as if summoning assistance to arrest the further progress of these daring and dangerous human intruders. Here and there the fresh track of a buffalo, some wanderer of his race, appeared; the brush at the roadside, against which the brute had rubbed in passing, still retain- ing some of its hair.

Leaving East Canyon the trail turned up a ravine to the west, and finally crossed over another ridge or summit,-Big Mountain.

Hitherto naught but a seemingly endless succession of Alps on Alps, hills piled on hills, had greeted the tired vision of the struggling vanguard, pushing through these mountain fastnesses. But now, from the summit of this pass, a broader and grander view was obtained. Glimpses of the open country appeared. To the south-west, through a vista of sloping mountains,-the V of the canyon prospect changed to a W by the intervention of a massive peak towering in the distance -two small sections of Salt Lake Valley were visible. The lake was yet unseen, but beyond loomed the blue and snow-tipped Oquirrhs, and peering above them a shadowy summit of the far-off Onaqui range, dimly outlined against the western sky. It was from this summit-Big Mountain-that Orson Pratt and John Brown, riding horseback ahead of their company, on Monday, July. 19th, 1847, caught the first glimpse had by any of the pioneers of the Valley of the Great Salt Lake.

Having descended Big Mountain,-a steep and dangerous slide,

H.L.A CULMER

First Glimpse of "The Valley."

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where wheels were double-locked lest teams and wagons should rush on to destruction,-the hopeful vanguard pushed on cheerily, their spirits and strength materially renewed by what they had seen. A few miles farther the trail, avoiding a canyon on the left, rose abruptly over another high hill-Little Mountain-whence it de- scended into the gorge since known as Emigration Canyon.

A mile below Little Mountain, on July 21st, Pratt's com- pany halted for noon beside a swift-running stream which they named Last Creek. Here they were overtaken by Erastus Snow, a messenger from the rear. The pioneer company was now traveling in three detachments. Elder Snow said that it was President Young's impression that on emerging from the mountains they should bear to the northward and stop at the first convenient place for putting in seed.

That afternoon, Orson Pratt and Erastus Snow, taking a single saddle-horse, preceded the rest of the company down the canyon. Near the mouth of the gorge,-which they found to be impassable, owing to a dense thicket, where rocks, brush and timber completely choked the way,-they crossed to the south side of the creek and followed the trail up over a steep and dangerous hill,-" so very steep," says the record, "that it was almost impossible for heavy wagons to ascend, and so narrow that the least accident might pre- cipitate a wagon down a bank of three or four hundred feet." From the summit of this hill the two pioneers saw for the first time the broad, open valley, belted with snow-capped peaks, and the blue waters of the lake flashing and shimmering in the summer sun- beams. A shout of rapture broke from their lips, and having drunk their fill of the inspiring scene, they descended from the hills to the plateau or bench below.

Meantime the middle or main company, after repairing some of their wagons,-broken in passing over the rocky and stumpy route,- had almost overtaken the vanguard in Emigration Canyon. The rear wagons, with the sick President, were at the same time approach- ing East Canyon. On the 22nd they encamped there, and on the

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23rd crossed Big Mountain. The President, reclining in Apostle Woodruff's carriage, requested to have it turned upon the summit so that he might see those portions of the Valley that were now visible. Gazing long and earnestly at the prospect, he exclaimed: "Enough. This is the right place. Drive on."

That night the President's party encamped in a small birch grove, whence issued a beautiful spring. It was about midway between the Big and Little mountains, near the cozy canyon nook now called Mountain Dell. Here, at Birch Spring, on the evening of July 23rd, the party was joined by John Pack and Joseph Mat- thews, who had returned to report that the companies ahead had cut their way through the mouth of the canyon, entered and partly explored the Valley, and made choice of a spot for putting in crops. It was late in the forenoon of the day following-the memorable 24th -that the rear wagons rolled through the mouth of Emigration Can- yon, and Brigham Young, the founder of Utah, looked his first upon the full glory of the Valley by the Lake.

Great Salt Lake Valley, July, 1847.

H.L. A. CULMER

---

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CHAPTER XVIII. 1847.

PEN PICTURE OF SALT LAKE VALLEY-HOW IT LOOKED TO THE PIONEERS-CONTRASTED IMPRES- SIONS-ORSON PRATT AND ERASTUS SNOW THE FIRST EXPLORERS-THE CAMP ON CITY CREEK -PLOWING AND PLANTING- ARRIVAL OF THE PRESIDENT-THE FIRST SARBATH SERVICE IN THE VALLEY-ORSON PRATT'S SERMON TO THE PIONEERS-BRIGHAM YOUNG LAYS DOWN THE LAW-APOSTLE LYMAN AND ELDER BRANNAN ARRIVE-EXPLORING AND COLONIZING-ENSIGN PEAK NAMED-THE GREAT SALT LAKE VISITED-BLACK ROCK CHRISTENED-TOOELE VALLEY- UTAH LAKE SEEN-SALT LAKE CITY PLANNED AND LOCATED.

T WAS no Garden of the Hesperides upon which the Pioneers gazed that memorable July morning. Aside from its scenic splendor, which was indeed glorious, magnificent, there was little to invite and much to repel in the prospect presented to their view. A broad and barren plain hemmed in by mountains, blistering in the burning rays of the midsummer sun. No waving fields, no swaying forests, no verdant meadows to rest and refresh the weary eye, but on all sides a seemingly interminable waste of sagebrush bespangled with sunflowers,-the paradise of the lizard, the cricket and the rat- tlesnake. Less than half way across the baked and burning valley, dividing it in twain-as if the vast bowl, in the intense heat of the Master Potter's fires, in process of formation had cracked asunder-a narrow river, turbid and shallow, from south to north in many a serpentine curve, sweeps on its sinuous way. Beyond, a broad lake, the river's goal, dotted with mountain islands; its briny waters shimmering in the sunlight like a silver shield.

From mountains snow-capped, seamed and craggy, lifting their kingly heads to be crowned by the golden sun, flow limpid, laughing streams, cold and crystal clear, leaping, dashing, foaming, flashing, from rock to glen, from peak to plain. But the fresh canyon streams

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are far and few, and the arid waste they water, glistening with beds of salt and soda and pools of deadly alkali, scarcely allows them to reach the river, but midway well nigh swallows and absorbs them in its thirsty sands. Above the line of gray and gold, of sage and sun- flower, the sloping hillsides and precipitous steeps clothed with pur- ple and dark-green patches. These, the, oak-bush, the squaw-berry, and other scant growths, with here and there a tree casting its lone shadow on hill or in valley ; a wire-grass swamp, a few acres of with- ered bunch-grass, and the lazily waving willows and wild-rose bushes fringing the distant streams, the only green things visible.

Silence and desolation reign. A silence unbroken, save by the cricket's ceaseless chirp, the roar of the mountain torrent, or the whir and twitter of the passing bird. A desolation of centuries, where earth seems heaven-forsaken, where hermit Nature, watching, waiting, weeps, and worships God amid eternal solitudes.

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History of Utah, Part 28

Author: Whitney, Orson Ferguson Publication date: 1892 Publisher: Salt Lake City, Cannon Number of Pages: 1026

Author: Whitney, Orson Ferguson
Publication date: 1892
Publisher: Salt Lake City, Cannon
Number of Pages: 1026