A history of Rockingham County, Virginia, Part 33

Author: Wayland, John Walter, 1872-1962
Publication date: 1912
Publisher: Dayton, Va. : Ruebush-Elkins Co.
Number of Pages: 578


USA > Virginia > Rockingham County > Rockingham County > A history of Rockingham County, Virginia > Part 33


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and thrilling encounters with wild animals, and a list of the number of bears and deer he had killed, was published in the Rockingham Register about the year 1855. He was out hunting once some where in the mountains of Rockingham, when he was attacked by a panther. The animal had hidden upon the limb of a tree which overhung the path, and had dropped down upon him as he passed underneath. Had it not been for his dogs, Kiester would have been killed. Their attack upon the panther caused it to turn its attention toward them, and give the man a chance to shoot it. As it was, he was badly injured. His clothing was torn to shreds; his body was covered with blood. The beast's claws had cut his back and the calves of his legs like knives. He bore the marks of this encounter during the remainder of his life.


Two other hunters, whose names the writer's father does not remember, once had a thrilling experience with a she-bear. One of these hunters found a couple of bear cubs, and promptly shot them. One of them made an outcry which was heard by the mother bear. She came rushing to the assistance of her young, and attacked the man before he could reload his rifle. Using his gun as a club, he managed for a while to beat her off, calling at the same time for help. His partner, who was with the dogs some distance away, was deaf and could not hear him; but the dogs heard him, came to his rescue, and held the bear at bay until the other man, who had followed the dogs, came up and shot the bear. The stock of the gun which the first man had used as a club against the bear was badly broken, and the weapon was almost ruined. He said that the bear had stood up on her hind legs and struck at him with her great fore paws, warding off his blows like a man. He was a large well-built man, and managed to get in a few terrific blows upon the animal's head and fore arms; but he said that after she was killed and skinned the places where his blows had fallen were not discolored, and seemed hardly bruised. When we take into consideration the fact that most of the guns used by those early hunters were flintlocks, which could not be loaded excep


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at the expense of several minutes of time, we can readily understand how those men were exposed to risks such as are not shared by huntsmen of the present day.


Richard Custer, Jr., the father of Jacob Custer, was a gunsmith, as elsewhere noted; and the site of his gun shop is still pointed out as one of the old landmarks near Cootes' Store.


Sometimes a deer that was started in Pendleton County would be chased across the mountains into Rockingham, the hunters who started it not caring to follow it so far. Under such conditions the animal might be shot by some Rocking- ham party; and vice versa. Occasionally the dogs would follow the deer long after their masters had given it up, and would be fed and cared for by strangers, some not getting back home for several days.


Many a hunter of those early days valued his dogs as highly as his horses. There were two classes of hunters; one class that hunted with dogs; the other without. The latter were known as "private hunters." They were much opposed to running deer with dogs, and sometimes resorted to ex- treme measures-destroying dogs with poison. Such pro- ceedings of course led to much hard feeling between the two classes. Two dogs that Jacob Custer prized very highly fell victims to some "private hunter's" poison. Long afterwards, when his anger had perceptibly cooled, Custer by mere chance learned the name of the poisoner. Meeting the man one day he accused him of killing the dogs. Reluctantly the guilt


was admitted. "Well," said Custer, "it is past and gone now; but if I had known it was you, then, I'd have shot you."2


The foregoing stories are not only true of the particular incidents recounted, but are also typical of their class, and enable us to realize vividly what the actual and frequent expe- riences of the mountain hunters were in days long past. Now and then a bear or deer is still found in these mountains; and


2. I am indebted to Mr. Milo Custer for much other interesting matter, which is withheld here only for lack of space.


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now and then, it may be at increasing intervals, the hunts- man's horn still is heard:


'Sweet and far from cliff and scar,


Like horns of Elfland faintly blowing.'


But the sounds to-day are mostly echoes.


In connection with the foregoing paragraphs the following incidents have appropriate significance. They give specific information of various beasts and birds found or seen in Rockingham at various times.


The two incidents first given are related by Messrs. J. R. Shipman and S. H. W. Byrd of Bridgewater.


About 1794, when St. Michael's Church above Bridge- water was building, a young girl, later the grandmother of Mr. Jacob H. Wynant, was employed carrying dinner each day to the workmen. One day, in going from Bridgewater to the church-a distance of only 23 or 3 miles-she saw seven deer.


About 1850, Mr. Wynant's mother, a daughter of Rev. John Brown of the Reformed Church, found a panther in the cow stable, and narrowly escaped with her life-the beast so nearly catching her as he sprang that he tore off part of her clothing.


In the winter and spring of 1865-6, James Steele and his associates killed in Rockingham County 17 red foxes and one gray fox.


In February, 1866, Mr. Geo. W. Rosenberger, who lived on Smith's Creek below Tenth Legion, shot and killed a bald eagle that measured 6 feet 8 inches from tip to tip of wings.


In December, 1867, Mr. Derrick Pennybacker killed a black eagle, measuring 6 feet 8 inches from tip to tip, on Linville Creek.


In January, 1870, William Minnick of Broadway reported that he had been in at the death of no less than 33 deer in the mountains of Brock's Gap and Rawley Springs during the past season, October 1 to January 1.


In March, 1876, a large black eagle was committing various depredations between Harrisonburg and Dayton.


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In June of the same year a black bear was killed in the vicinity of Cross Keys, and two cranes were killed elsewhere in the county.


Not always, however, were the Nimrods of Cross Keys so successful. In January, 1891, the near presence of a bear was reported at Yager's store, and there was instant com- motion. The hunters sallied forth, fierce and fast. There was "racing and chasing" o'er woodland and lea; but, as in the hunt for the lost bride of Netherby, the object of dear desire ne'er did they see. The incident was made the subject of a really fine set of humorous verses by J. W. Tyler, and published in the Register of January 30, 1891.


In the Register of October 18, 1877, appeared the follow- ing paragraph:


A few days since a gentleman in Brock's Gap went out squirrel hunting, and taking his seat upon a log, killed one hundred squirrels with- out moving from the spot. He says at least five hundred more passed by where he was sitting, during the day. It was not a first class day for squirrels, either. They all seemed running eastward.


In the same paper, issue of November 29, 1877, was printed a sketch of James Todd, lately deceased, who lived at or near the southwest corner of Rockingham. One para- graph of this sketch is given herewith:


He was the most remarkable hunter in the Valley of Virginia, having killed over 2700 deer up to 1860, with one old muzzle-loading rifle, which had been bored so often that you could get your thumb in it. He had killed bears without number. He was a dead shot, and could perform the feat of putting a bullet through a hat on the opposite side of a tree every time, by placing an axe blade for the ball to glance.


From June 30, 1878, to June 26, 1879, sheep were killed in the county to the number of 165, and were paid for at the rate of $3.50 each. During the same period the county paid $129 for 86 red fox scalps, $72 for 90 gray fox scalps, and $50 for 20 wild cats scalps; not a cent, so far as reported, for the scalps of worthless dogs.


March 31, 1879, Jacob Fawley caught the "boss otter" of Brock's Gap, the said otter weighing 15 pounds, and measuring 3 feet 10 inches from end of nose to end of tail.


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Sidney Lanier Cottage, Rockingham Springs (Pages 435, 436)


A Rockingham Orchard (Peaked Mountain in the Distance)


I W


Keezletown School Building


First Piano brought into Rockingham. Now in hands of Chicago Historical Society (Page 437)


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In 1879 a big crane was killed in the county.


In February, 1880, seven bears were killed in Peaked Mountain.


In Januray, 1881, Samuel Smith and his two sons killed the "daddy bear" in West Rockingham. He weighed 300 pounds dressed. In the following February a 160-pound bear was killed by Geo. W. Long in Dayton. The next month a large bear was killed near Rawley Springs.


In 1882 deer were frequently seen in the vicinity of Mt. Clinton. One was killed not ten feet from the kitchen window of one home, and another in a nearby field.


In January, 1891, it was reported that Wallace B. Minnick of Broadway had killed, during the past season, 13 bears, several of them weighing over 300 pounds each.


In February, 1891, Messrs. Wittig & Son, of Dovesville, were said to have shipped to Washington 1643 rabbits, from November to January, inclusive.


The same year Robt. Higgs shot an eagle, near Lacey Springs, which measured 5 feet 7 inches from tip to tip of wings.


During the winter of 1892-3 A. M. Turner of West Rock- ingham killed 10 black bears, ranging in weight from 100 to 500 pounds. The skins were sold at an average of $20 each.


In March, 1893, a gray fox attacked a child, then a woman, near McGaheysville. The woman finally killed it with a piece of scantling.


In 1897 J. C. Funkhouser shot a bald eagle near Keezle- town. It weighed 92 pounds, and measured 6 feet 10 inches from tip to tip.


CHAPTER XXVI.


BOATING ON THE SHENANDOAH RIVER.


All of us have heard or known of the days of "wagoning," when the farmer or his son would load the flour, bacon, or other products of his labor in the great wagon, and set out for Fredericksburg, Scottsville, Alexandria, or some other important market. It may not be generally known, however, that for many years hundreds of tons of flour, lumber, iron, and other articles of trade were taken down the Valley in boats on the main streams of the Shenandoah River. Con- cerning this river trade Mr. Richard Mauzy, a venerable citizen of McGaheysville, writes as follows:


"Between 1830 and 1840 Zack Raines1 as leader, or 'boss,' with the soubriquet 'Commodore,' and a number of others made their living by boating to Harper's Ferry. There-the flour having been disposed of-the boats were sold for the lumber in their construction, and the boatmen would walk back to their homes.


"The floatboats used were made of heavy undressed lum- ber, and were guided by rudders at each end. At the dams in the river, next to the shore, chutes were placed, constructed of strong timber, for the passage of the boats. When the rise in the river was sufficient, the boats would go over the dams."


An idea of the magnitude of this river trade from Port Republic and other points in the eastern part of the county may be obtained from the following advertisement, which appeared in the Rockingham Register of January 16, 1841:


Notice.


The subscriber takes this method of informing his customers and the public, that he still continues the business of Boating Flour and other produce of this country to market; and, owing to the failure of crops, his terms hereafter will be-


1. "Commodore" Zachariah Raines died February 3, 1871, aged 59.


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ROCKINGHAM COUNTY


For Flour taken from the neighborhood of Mt. Crawford to George- town, $1.25.


From Port Republic and his own neighborhood, $1.20.


And an additional charge of 12} cents per barrel when taken to Baltimore. He will also deliver Flour at Harper's Ferry, on the Canal or Rail-road, at $1.00 per barrel.


Having a saw-mill of his own, to enable him to build his own boats, and having hands of his own to go with the water, -he will take Flour from his own yard at $1.12} per barrel. All barrels delivered in good order-no cooperage to be charged. Last season he and his hands took through the Shenandoah locks 5,623 barrels. He was not forgotten when there was a great deal of business to do, and he flatters himself that his customers will not forsake him when there is a little to do. He avails himself of this opportunity to return his thanks to those who have here- tofore encouraged him in his business, and flatters himself that his long experience and success in his business will enable him to give general satisfaction. He leaves as security for his returns, 1,492 acres of real property, and between . . and $4,000 worth of personal property. The public's humble servant,


Jacob Sipe.


This notice makes the fact obvious that Mr. Raines was not the only man in the river trade worthy to be called "Commodore."


About twelve years ago a gentleman who signed himself "Gabriel" wrote an exceedingly interesting article on the subject before us for the Page Courier, published at Luray, Va. We give herewith his account in full.


Old Boating Days on the Shenandoah.


The Shenandoah River used to be the great commercial highway of this Valley, and boating in those days gave employment to many men. My first recollections of the River date back to the day that my father moved on its banks near the old Columbia Bridge. The sec- ond day after we moved my father and three uncles went up the River to the Furnace (now Shenandoah City) and in a few days we heard that the fleet was in Kite's dam, so my grand-mother took me to the High Rock to see the boats come through the shoot. We got in sight just in time to see the first boat go thro, strike a great rock, split in twain, and the whole cargo of pigiron went to the bottom. Each boat was manned by six men, and when the boat broke those on it were carried to such deep water that they had to swim. There were 18 boats in this fleet, and soon the men began to wade in and gather the iron together in a pile. The broken boat was then taken to the bank and repaired, reloaded and started


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on its way again. This was in March, I think, so you can see that a River sailor had his perils and hardships. William Lowry was, I think, the steersman on the broken boat.


Nearly all boats were provided with tin horns about 8 feet long, and when they would start from stations on the River, all would blow. War songs were the favorite tunes, and the music they made would make your hair stand on end. These horns could be heard for five miles.


These boats were 9} x 76 feet. In low water they carried 8 tons and flush water 12 tons of iron; 8 to 12 thousand feet of lumber or 110 barrels of flour made a load. Iron was then worth $60 per ton; lumber $1.80 to $2.25 per 100; flour $8 per barrel. A great deal of bark, hoop-poles, rails, shingles, posts, apples, brandy, potatoes, and corn was boated off also; tho iron, flour, and lumber were the principal exports in those days.


Boats sold at the journey's end for from $18 to $25. Boatsmen got from $14 to $18 for the trip. It generally took from 5 to 7 days to make the trip-3 or 4 to take the boat down and 2 or 3 to walk back.


The stations along the River had names just like our railroad stations. Here are some of them: Starting at Shenandoah, we came first to Wel- fley's Mill, then Wm. Kite's Mill, Roland Kite's Mill, and so on, each of which all the way down the River old boatsmen and residents along the River will remember; but I have not space to mention them here. The deepest water in the River those days between Port Republic and Harper's Ferry was at Gray Horse Eddies, below Castleman's Ferry. [Castleman's Ferry is in Clarke County. ]


These are the names of some of the old boatsmen: Hamp Miller, Frank Rucker, Coronee Comer, Billie Melton, Alec Kite, Bud Cave, Wm. Strickler, Merrell Comer, Bud, William, Cap, Dick, Dan, George, Ben, John and Al Dofflemoyer; Ben and Dug Dovel; Columbus Kite, Jack Kite, Commodore Turner, William, Reuben, Dick, and Henry Lucas; Fred Phillips, Wm. and Jack Alger; M. V. Louderback, John Gaines, Bogus Lucas, James Bateman, Shinnol Croft, Bax Bugan, Ton Morris, James, Sim, and Davy Keyser; Chris, Aleck, Charley and Jacob Hilliard; W. M. Lowry, Reuben, Joseph, Peter, Martin, John, Isaac and Abram Painter; James W. Foltz, Sharp Good, Adam, John W., Noah, David, Jacob, and Newton Seakford; Joel Decker, Joe and John Burner, Wm. Price, Jas. and George Webster; John and Dan Martin; W. M. Martin, Sr., Wm. Martin, Jr., George W. Seakford, Buck, Dick, Harrison and Hutch Cameron; Wm. Stoneberger, Alf Kite, and Robert, Isaac, and Billy Aleshire.


The last three boats that ever went down the River were built for Adam Seakford on the James Bumgardner place, three miles southwest of Rileyville, about 11 years ago. They were loaded with plank, which was sold at Riverton. They were run off by Adam Seakford, James Webster, and J. R. Seakford, the stern hands being Martin Painter; Buck Cameron, and Newton Seakford.


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This ended the boating business in Page.


There may more occur to me later on this subject, and if it does I may write another chapter about it, as it covers an important era in the history of our county .?


From Mr. J. H. Mace of Port Republic the following facts relating to transportation on the Shenandoah have been obtained. For some time in the early days Port Republic was the highest point on the river from which boats started. Later, the channels being sufficiently cleared, they started farther up: on the South River, at Mt. Vernon Forge, now Grottoes; on Middle River, at Mt. Meridian; and on North River, at Bruback's Mill.


The boats were called "gundalows," the accent being on the first syllable. They were frequently or generally nine feet wide and 90 feet long. The main side board was 2 inches thick and 14 inches high, this height being increased-perhaps doubled-by a second board on top, one inch thick, called the "splash board."


Occasionally, perhaps frequently, boats started on North River as high as Mt. Crawford and Bridgewater. Gen. John E. Roller tells me that he used to see Com. Raines and his men taking flat boats down the river past Mt. Crawford. In Martin's Gazetteer of Virginia (1835), it is stated in the sketch of Mt. Crawford, "The North River is navigable for flat boats, about three miles above this village." A point three miles above Mt. Crawford is almost exactly the site of Bridgewater. Henry Howe, in his history of Virginia (1852), says that Mt. Crawford was near the head of boat navigation. The fact that Bridgewater was formerly called "Bridgeport"' is thus explained.


Hon. Geo. E. Sipe tells me that he has seen as many as 1000 barrels of flour in one convoy on the Shenandoah. He also states that the government expended some money in opening the river for navigation. As early as 1798 the feasi-


2. From the Page Courier of May 24, 1900. The paper from which the above was copied was loaned to the author by Ed. S. Conrad, Esq., of Harrisonburg, Va.


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bility of making it navigable was being discussed in the Virginia General Assembly. In 1824 and 1831 Acts were passed declaring certain parts thereof a public highway. In 1831 an Act was passed directing a survey of the Shenandoah River to the highest points of navigation, for the purpose of determining the practicability and expediency of improving the said river by means of dams, locks, etc., or of building a railroad through the adjacent valley.3


April 11, 1867, some one, who evidently knew a good deal of the subject, was writing in the Rockingham Register urging that steps be taken to open North River for navigation from Port Republic to Bridgewater. This could be done, he thought, for about $2400.4


Doubtless the improvement of the river, like the making of fords and the building of bridges, had to be repeated from time to time, owing to destructive freshets.


What Rockingham Boatmen Can Do.


The following will show what our hardy, persevering boatmen are capable of doing:


A fleet of boats, loaded with iron, was taken down the Shenandoah River, from Port Republic to Harper's Ferry, 165 miles, by the following named boatmen, viz .: Zachariah Raines, Capt .; Samuel May, Henry Pirkey, Alexander Pirkey, Jacob Raines, Reuben Raines, Jacob Hudlowe, George Rodeheffer, Henry Raines, Wm. Jones, Wm. Knight, James Ander- son, privates, 12 in number. The boats were run through in four and a half days, and had in them one hundred and ten tons, (110,) making over nine tons to each man. They lashed the boats together, in twos, which were thus taken down the river. A portion of the trip was accomplished when the river was very high, making the management of the boats very difficult and dangerous. The fleet was commanded by that veteran nav- igator and sailor, Captain Zachariah Raines, living at the head of naviga- tion, whose knowledge of the dangerous reefs and shoals and quicksands of the raging Shenandoah is perfect, he having passed over the same watery path for many years past, making several hundred trips.5


3. See Hening's Statutes and the Acts of Assembly.


4. In the Rockingham Register of March 8, 1888, is an article relating to Port Republic, headquarters of the old "Flatboat Brigade," and point- ing out the natural advantages of the place.


5. From the Rockingham Register of March 21, 1867.


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The following item, copied from the Register of January 27, 1870, will show that navigation was not unknown in days of yore on the north fork of the Shenandoah. So far as is known, however, the trade in Rockingham on this branch of the river never reached large proportions.


A New Era!


Messrs. Editors :- Navigation has been opened on the North Branch of the Shenandoah River, from Brenneman's saw-mill, in Brock's Gap, to Cootes' Store. First boat, King Fisher, Capt. W. F. Turner, laden with shingles, deer-hides, furs, &c., also passengers, arrived to-day at the latter place, at 3 o'clock, P. M. Hurrah for the first improvement on the admission of the old State!


Jan. 20, 1870.


Brock's Gap.


CHAPTER XXVII. COURT DAYS OF LONG AGO.


Court day in Rockingham has been a great day in the calendar for more than a century. Even now, after the absorption of the county court by the circuit court, court day is still perpetuated and religiously observed. All who have a horse to sell, a horse to buy, a man to see,-anything to be seen: those with business of all sorts, and chiefly those with none of any sort, -those and these all come to town on court day. Court day may be termed an institution: a social and economic institution. It doubtless has an educational as well as a general social value. To be on court square, or near it, on court day makes one dream of the agora at old Athens and the forum at Rome.


In the following paragraphs, taken from Mrs. Maria Graham Carr's charming reminiscences, one gets a vivid idea of the court square and the court days of 1820, and thereabouts.


About eighty feet in front of her [Mrs. Effinger's] cor- ner house was located the Court House, nearly in the middle of the square. I think I remember a log or frame court house, that stood in the same place. I certainly remem- ber a stone building with a large door on the east end, as well as a large bull's-eye, or round window, near the roof, and other windows on the second floor to light the jury rooms. A stone jail with grated windows stood a few paces southeast of the court house. Mr. Fletcher, an old man, was the jailer then. Behind the court house, about 20 feet from it, was a small one-story building called the clerk's office. Between it and the court house was a roof of shingles, supported by wooden pillars. Under this beef was sold; it was called the market-house. A whipping post was near the east end of it. The whole was enclosed by a strong wooden fence, made of


ROCKINGHAM COUNTY


three horizontal rails set into posts securely planted in the ground, all painted Spanish brown. I do not think the color was ever noted for its beauty, but for its durability.


The lawyers of that day were Robert Gray, David Steele, and Thomas Clark, and some younger ones I do not remember. Court day once a month was looked upon as a great event; every one that could leave home was on hand. It was a day of great interest; farmers coming in with their produce, such as butter, eggs, and other articles which they exchanged for groceries and dry goods. The streets around the court house were thronged with all sorts of men; others on horse-back, riding up and down trying to sell their horses. Men in home-made clothes, old rusty hats that had seen several generations, coarse shoes and no stockings, some without coats or vests, with only shirts and pants. I have seen a rich man come in from his country home, riding a fine horse. The man was dressed in home-spun linen shirt and pants, coarse shoes, no stockings, and an old slouch hat or straw hat. He had a large yellow silk bandana handkerchief, with a pocket-book filled with bank-notes rolled in it. He placed the handkerchief under his arm, with the two ends tied over his shoulder. He made money by buying deeds and other papers, or loaning money on notes-this was called shaving paper; and many men got rich by this business.




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